Month: November 2022

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

COSTUME OF ALL NATIONS, (NO. 39.) NEAPOLITAN.

” Naples of luxury the native seat,”

Sang the poet, and well, in that single line, did he paint the attractions of that gay and splendid place, to which the voluptuary, after having long worn the imperial purple, hastened in search of new, and yet unheard of pleasures. The latter may be found to any unvitiated mind and taste in the contemplation of an unclouded sky, enchanting prospects, its fine hay of picturesque renown, and its streets replete with entertainment, and groups of happy-looking, laughing predestrians, enjoying the exhibition constantly displayed of that king of puppet shows, diverting Punch, one of the principal delights of the merry Neapolitans.
The females are charming; and though their costume is gay, and biguarree, it is infinitely becoming; we have before presented our readers with the general dress adopted by the females of Naples, yet we have now the pleasure of giving to their inspection, one more elegant and varied, worn at the last Carnival, and from which a drawing in our possession was taken on the spot.
It consists of a petticoat, corset-corsage, and bracers of bright geranium satin: the petticoat is bordered by four rows of gold lace; the same trimming surrounds the tucker part of the corsage, under which is a chemise of the finest lawn, drawn decorously over the bust, till just below the throat. A row of gold lace down each side the front of the bust forms a stomacher, and the back is ornamented in the same manner, and laces on each side by geranium silk cordon. The braces are simply of satin of the same colour, and fasten by three rings to the body, on the gold lace which surronnds it, as they meet that which forms the stomacher. A short skirt of yellow satin, which fastens behind, and is there left open, is surrounded by a border of etherial blue, on which are embroidered in white silk, some Greek figures and crosses, and this border is finished with broad gold lace. The sleeves are also of yellow satin, with a cuff at the wrist, with one point, and the cuff edged with gold lace. A narrow ruffle of blond surrounds the wrist, next the hand, and blue ribbon with a rossette on the outside of the shoulder, in front. A belt of blue satin, ornamented by gold chain-work, encircles the waist; and an apron of white crape, painted or embroidered in an antique pattern of Etruscan brown, completes the lower part of the dress. The hair is arranged in very full curls, and over it is a Portici veil of celestial blue crape, richly, but lightly edged, and fringed with gold; a very long Glauvina-pin of gold supports that part of this veil, which is usually stiffened, so as to shade the eyes, partially, from too great a glare of light. The ear-pendants are en girandoles, and consist of pearls and rubies , and the necklace is formed of three rows of rubies, strung a l’antique; a large ruby brooch, set round with pearls, is placed in the centre of the chemise, in front of the bust. The shoes are of yellow satin with large blue rosettes, and are fastened up on each side of the leg, by yellow strings.

A DINNER DRESS.

A dress of white gros de Naples bordered by five rows of satin ornaments a la Vandyck, the points reversed: over these hangs a light drapery of tulle, in divisions, and between each division a full blown lotos, in white satin. The corsage is made slightly, a la Roxalane, and is encircled by a pointed zone. A double falling tucker of blond, of the most exquisite workmanship, surrounds the bust, and in the centre is a bow of white satin ribbon; the sleeves are also adorned at the shoulders by a similar bow, and these sleeves are short and very full. A beret of pink crape is profusely ornamented beneath the brim, with pink satin foliage, and white and pink bows of gauze ribbons, two strings of which, in pink, float over the left shoulder: the ornaments on the beret consist of double pink larkspur, and branches of lilac, with a very small portion of green foliage. This dress is charmingly adapted for the spring.

AN EVENING DRESS.

A dress of Indian taffety, of a pomegranate-red, with a bouillone trimming of the same, covering the hem next the shoe. A very broad flounce of white blond slightly fastened constitutes the border, over which are chain-links, formed of white satin rouleaux. The body made quite plain to fit the shape, and the waist encircled by a sash, the same colour as the dress, of broad ribbon, with two ends depending from a small rosette on the left side, in front; these ends descend only as low as the top of the flounce. The sleeves are short and full, and the fulness confined in the middle in the same manner, as the sleeves a la Marie; they terminate next the elbow by a frill of broad blond; and the tucker part of the bust is surrounded by a double frill of blond, set on full, and more separate from each other than the falling tuckers: this ornament has a small rosette of pomegranate-red in the centre. A white satin dress hat, placed very much on one side constitutes the head-dress. Under the elevated side of the brim are placed three small white Marabout feathers; a beautiful plumage of which, with white gauze ribbons, ornament the crown; and very long strings of the same ribbon, which has a rich brocaded satin stripe at each edge, float over the shoulders. Bracelets arc worn over the gloves, formed of cameos, or separate medallions of differently coloured stones.

A MORNING DRESS.

A dress of fine India muslin, with a very deep flounce in festoons, elegantly embroidered, and the scallops edged by a double quilling of narrow lace. Over the flounce is worked on the dress, in superb pattern in embroidery. The body is en gerbe, with a full ruche of thread tulle round the upper part of the bust. The sleeves a la Mameluke, with a broad cuff, headed by a ruche, the same as the tucker, and a similar ornament next the hand; between these ruches, there is a bracelet on the left wrist formed of two rows of gold beads; on the right, a broad gold bracelet, on which are medallions in turquoise stones. The hat is of satin, the colour of the summer rose, with bows of the same, and a few black espoit feathers; this hat ties under the chin, with ribbon the same colour as the hat, figured in delicate outlines of black. A necklace of rubies, set round with pearls a l’antique, encircles the neck just below the throat.

A MORNING DRESS.

A dress of plain jaconet muslin, with a very broad hem at the border, finished at the head in Vandyke points: these are terminated by a double ruche of narrow thread tulle, over a slight embroidery of green foliage. The corsage is made slightly en gerbe, partially low, with a full double falling tucker of narrow lace, of a neat pattern; the waist is encircled by a cambric belt, embroidered with green, to correspond with the foliage on the skirt. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, finished at the wrists and ornamented in the same manner, as those of the engraving described above, except, that instead of the bracelets, is sometimes introduced between the ruches, embroidery, in green. The bonnet is of white gros de Naples, trimmed with scrolls of the same, and dark green esprits: strings of white striped ribbon float loose.

AN EVENING DRESS.

A dress of apricot-coloured crape, over a satin slip, trimmed at the border with broad ribbons of the same colour, forming Vandyke points; at each of the upper points is a rosette of the same ribbon ; and the ornament is headed by a rouleau of satin, the colour of the dress. The body is a la Sevigne; and in the centre of the bouffant, drapery across the upper part of the bust is a splendid brooch, en girandole, of turquoise-stones. The sleeves arc short, fluted, and very full, with a frill of blond over each shoulder. The hair is arranged a la Naide, and on the summit is a very large blue convolvulus with buds and green foliage: on the left side is a glauvina pin, with a superb head, ornamented with jewels. The ear-rings are of turquoise-stones.

A DINNER DRESS.

A dress of violet-coloured satin with a very broad horn round the border of the skirt, headed by passementerie, in a twisted cord, or ornament. The body made quite plain to fit the shape, and the waist encircled by a belt of the same colour as the dress, with a brooch in front, of a lozenge form, consisting of an antique head in alto-relievo, set in finely wrought fillagree gold. The sleeves are in the jigot form, and are slashed a l’Espagnole, on the outside of the arm, the slashes filled in by white crepe aerophane; the sleeves are confined at the wrists by broad bracelets of green and gold enamel, with clasps in brooches, corresponding with the ornament in front of the belt. The head-dress consists of a hat of coloured satin, under the brim of which, lying on the hair, is a rosette of white gauze ribbon on each side, which are divided by an entwined bandeau of the same ribbon placed across, just above the forehead: the hat, which is crowned by a beautiful white plumage, is placed very backward. The jewellery worn with this dress, are fine Oriental pearls, in ear-pendants, and elegant drop-necklace and cross; those pearls which form the festoon over the bust are smaller than those which compose the single row that encircles the neck. Where the festoon is caught up, is a brooch; the alto-relievo head answers to that on the belt, except that this is round instead of being in a lozenge shape.

AN EVENING DRESS.

A dress of etherial-blue crape, with a broad hem at the border; at the head of which are two rows of ornaments, resembling irregular chevrons, united, but lying obliquely across the skirt; these are of satin, about two shades darker than the dress ; the largest of them fall downwards, the upper ones, which are smaller, are in a contrary direction; they are finished on one side by very narrow white blond. The body is a la Circassienne, and a belt of blue satin, embroidered with gold, confines the waist. The sleeves are short and full, and are surmounted at the top by a frill of white blond. The hair is arranged in full curls on each side of the face, and over the right side, from the summit, are two loops of hair, forming a bow, which is brought rather forward, but not so as to derange the curls in front. On the summit of the head is a broad plat, en Corbeille, from whence issue light and rather long curls; through these is placed an arrow of gold. Two rows of beads, formed of Egyptian pebbles, obliquely cross the forehead. The ear-rings are of gold.

FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.

FIG. 1. – Back view of a head-dress in hair, the same in style as that above described, with the additional ornaments of a full-blown rose, a butterfly, and a gold arrow.
FIG. 2. – Back view of a dress hat, of celestial-blue satin; the crown very low, and fluted en melon, slightly ornamented with white gauze ribbon, and a beautiful plume of white feathers.
FIG. 3. – Back view of a coiffeure in hair, arranged a la Naide. The summit crowned with a large full-blown yellow rose, buds, and green foliage.

A MORNING DRESS.

A tunic pelisse of fine white merino, beautifully embroidered in a greek pattern round the tunic with bouquets of flowers, at each corner. The body made high, a la Circassienne, and the sleeves en jigot. A pelerine of crape falls over the shoulders, and is embroidered round with two rows of the same greek pattern, which surrounds the tunic. The hat is of primrose gros de Naples, ornamented with double lilac-coloured garden poppies.

FASHIONABLE BONNETS AND HEAD-DRESSES.

Fig. 1. – A Neapolitan cap a la fiancee, of rich white blond, tastefully, but very lightly ornamented with flowers and ribbon, under the border.
FIG. 2. – Dress hat of white crape, with a bow of gauze ribbon, at the edge of the brim, on the right side. The crown elegantly ornamented with blond.
FIG. 3. – A bonnet for the promenade of white gros de Naples, trimmed and bound with pea-green ribbon.
FIG. 4. – A back View of a similar bonnet in lavender gros de Naples, trimmed with bows of the same material.
FIG. 5. A turban of blue crape, with saffron coloured ornaments of square foliage, cut in ribbons.
FIG. 6. – Back view of the same kind of turban, in pink crape, with spring green ornaments.
FIG. 7. – Back and front view of a court head-dress, formed of rich blond lappets, crossing the fore part of the hair: the tresses on the summit highly elevated, in plats and bows, and crowned with flowers formed of differently coloured valuable jewels.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR MAY, 1829.

No longer, now, does the style of fashion remain suspended. Imagination, at length, ventures to decide on the choice of whatever may best please the fancy, amidst the numerous varieties now displayed, wherein the most charming and original feature presents itself to the eye of taste, in every versatile form; and our manufactures are so unrivalled, that we need not the aid of any foreign production in the adornment of our lovely countrywomen.
In regard to the elegancies of costume in the splendid courts of civilized Europe, and what may be gleaned from researches into antiquity, a successful emprunt may, occasionally, be resorted to; in this respect we cannot forbear calling, the attention of our most kind patronesses to the judicious alterations introduced by MRS. BELL, who has made, without destroying the original feature, those changes which have been productive of the most happy effect, and gained her the applause she so justly merits.
The bonnets for Spring are in great variety; one for the promenade is of fawn-coloured gros-de-Naples, edged at the border with rock -geranium-coloured beading; (this beading is now so extremely fashionable that scarce a bonnet or dress is finished without it:) the bonnet has an ornament round the crown, en fers de Cheval, of the same colour and material as the hat, lined with geranium sarcenet, in the hollows of which are placed puffs of ribbon the same colour as the bonnet, with a broad satin stripe of Navarin-blue at the edge, on which are clouds of geranium and white; the strings of the same ribbon are in a loop. A bonnet of white satin is trimmed with velvet ribbon, and bound with it at the edge, of a deep claret-colour, with an edge of bright amber, spotted with claret-colour. Strings, which are in a loop, are also of velvet, but with the colours reversed; the ground being of amber, and the edges claret, with yellow spots; the bows beneath the brim are the same as the strings. A superb carriage-bonnet, of a truly elegant shape, is of bird-of-Paradise satin, edged at the brim, about half an inch from the extremity, with black beading. Gauze ribbon, the same colour as the bonnet, with rich black satin stripes, ornaments the crown, and three beautiful weeping-willow feathers, the same tint as the bonnet, droop over the right side. A lady in slight mourning, has bespoke a very elegant bonnet of white gros-de-Naples, trimmed with black satin and black blond; scrolls of black satin, and other fanciful ornaments surround the crown, and black aigrette feathers. A figured white satin bonnet for the carriage, is trimmed with white satin ribbon richly striped ; it is ornamented with weeping-willow feathers of white and marsh-mallow blossom. A Canary -yellow satin bonnet is trimmed with yellow ribbons striped with black, in exactly the same style as the white figured satin bonnet above described, but is without plumage. A bonnet of etherial-blue satin is bound, lined, and trimmed with bird-of-Paradise ribbon, which has clouds at the border of green, red, and yellow: a broad blond, quilled in flutings, is placed beneath the brim, and ribbon in rosettes; the crown is adorned with esprit feathers in heath-foliage, white, green, and yellow. A white bonnet of gros-de-Naples, is figured all over in clouds of various colours, and bound with a variegated rouleaux of green and blue foliage the same colour as the bonnet, edged with blond, ornaments the crown, with white Narcissuses, and their green foliage, formed of feathers. A white carriage-bonnet of gros-de-Naples, has a beautiful border, worked in flat embroidery of red currants and their green foliage; the base of the crown is finished round in the same manner, and the summit in three very narrow rouleaux of currant-red satin, flowers of which bright tint ornament the hat, and from the centre of each flower, which is of the double Muscavia form, issue white esprit feathers. The gauze ribbon, employed in the decoration of this bonnet, arc beautifully diversified in satin stripes of lively and bright colours; the strings float loose. An embroidered edge to a marshmallow-blossom coloured bonnet, is very charming; it is a delicate wreath, the flowers white, representing those of the lilies of the valley, but the green leaves are smaller. A tropic bird’s plume is fixed in front, and waves archwise over each side; it is green, with a spray of heath in the centre. The ribbons are of Spring-green gauze, with satin stripes, the same colour as the bonnet, at one edge, and white on the other.
Among the head-dresses is a blond cap of fine tulle and blond, which has much style and fashion about it, but great taste is requisite in the putting it on, which should be on one side, discovering much of the hair, well arranged, on the other. It has a broad border, turned entirely back; sprigs of double violets and jonquils lie on the right side of the hair, and higher, on the left side, is placed a bouquet of the same flowers, with white snow-drops and crocusses grouped among them; Canary-yellow gauze ribbons, striped with black, are scattered slightly, in bows, over the summit. An Ottoman-turban, for full-dress evening parties, is a splendid coiffeure; half of the folds in front are of white satin, the other half of gold gauze. In the centre, in front, is the Sultana’s aigrette plume of yellow and white Herons’ feathers, intermingled with green and scarlet, from the tail of some rare foreign bird. A pink gauze turban is much admired for evening-dress ; it has a very beautiful plumage of ostrich feathers fixed in front, the same colour as the turban, the tips reclining to the left side, where they droop gracefully, but not lower than to the ear. The pelisses remain exactly in the style which prevailed last month; and the newest article, for out-door covering, is a pelerine mantelet, of fine India muslin, to be worn over a high dress, when the weather is sufficiently mild ; these chaste and elegant appendages are expected to be much in request the ensuing summer, either for the carriage or the promenade. They are trimmed all round with a frill of the same muslin as the mantelet, delicately embroidered all round in a small pattern, worked in feather-stitch; a row of a similar kind is also seen at the head of the trimming, worked on the mantelet itself.
The most admired colours are blue, of various shades, spring-green, jonquil, Canary-yellow, bird-of-Paradise, marshmallow-blossom, pink, fawn, and currant-red.

NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.

OUT-DOOR-COSTUME. – Several satin pelisses have the backs of the corsages made quite square; the skirt is set in, in very full plaits; the sleeves very wide, and the cuff coming very low over the hand.
In open carriages, cloaks are yet found indispensible; the newest are striped, and have a remarkably broad pelerine cape.
Pelisses are much in favour, some are of a wrapping kind; others are made to fit tight to the shape, and have the seams of the sleeves on the inside of the arm.

DRESSES. – Passementerie is expected to be much used in the trimming of dresses this summer, either in cordon, or in fringes, gowns so finished having already appeared.
The width of the sleeves is really terrific; there is about the same quantity of stuff made use of as it takes to make the rest of the dress. Dresses of white Merino prevail much at the promenades, they are painted in a pattern of various colours. Gowns of gros de Naples are trimmed with one broad flounce of the same colour as the dress; a pelerine is generally worn with them, embroidered round in the same manner as the flounce.
Several dresses have been seen bordered by narrow rouleaux which reach as high as the knee. A dress of black crape appeared lately at a ball, with stripes of gold, and palm-leaves round the border.
A chemisette tucker, embroidered and edged with a narrow lace, has now taken place of the plaited blond tuckers. Some dresses of white crape have a border as high as the knee, of lilacs and pinks, worked in flat embroidery.
Egyptian-muslins are new, and admired articles for dresses: nothing can be conceived more original than their patterns, which transport the imagination to the banks of the Nile, and cause the dress of a pretty woman to be regarded as a relic snatched from the Temple of Memphis. The colouring of these muslins is excellent.
Chaly de Constantinople is a charming material, which is adapted to all seasons, and it is so soft that it never rumples. One of these Chaly dresses merits particular notice; the border was painted in nine large palm-leaves of various colours, which produced an admirable effect. This style is called Harlequin.

Spotted Silenia, and figured Irish poplins are also beautiful articles; next to which we may place the toile de Ceos, a very distinguished material, well suited to fancy costumes; for it has this advantage, it is never likely to become common.
Smyrra gauze, figured and printed, embroidered Indian taffety, toile d’Ispahan, are all excellent articles for dresses. Scotch lawn, on which is painted or embroidered all kind of patterns, and lawns striped in divers colours, will be much worn by our fashionables this Spring. We must also reckon as novelties, mummy gauze, all of one colour, but striped: Syrian-gauze, with very narrow stripes.
Dresses of figured Merino, or of green Norwich-crape, are frequently seen in the Bois de Boulogne, in open carriages. A noble Marchioness was lately seen there in a dress of blue velvet; and another lady wore a dress of Burgundy-colour, with a very full body. The equestrian ladies have their habits made in that smart and becoming style, which discovers the skirt delicately plaited, and buttoning down the front like those of the gentlemen. The habit is either of celestial-blue cloth, or of laurel-green.
At a benefit performed for Madame MALIBRAN, several dresses were seen, the short sleeves of which were covered with white blond, slightly puckered at the top, and very wide ; at the wrist they formed an oreille d’elephant.
Most of the new dresses are made with a stomacher, and with plain flat backs. The plaits of the skirts are very full on each hip, which makes the waists of the stoutest females appear slender.
At present, on all the dresses made of spring materials, a pelerine is added the same colour as the gown; this is surrounded by a very broad border, or by a fringe. Some of these have pointed ends in front, en Canezou.
Ruffles are again in fashion at the cuffs; they are often plaited in the middle, and have edging on each side.
In some of the Magasins de Modes, and among several of the Marchands des Nouveautes, there is a new material of silk and stuff, which is of a colour between lavender-grey, and lilac; it is named parfait amour.
Among several other novelties is a material named gros de Naples Jardiniere, which from the brightness and harmony of its colours, is well adapted to summer dress. Chaly gree, Indian Cachemere, and mossed muslin, the name of which is expressive of grace, are also charming articles. Gros de Naples in narrow stripes, of beautiful shades, and various tissues of the newest patterns, remarkable for their taste and elegance, attract the Parisian belles to the fashionable Magasins in which they are now displayed. A great quantity of chintzes, of every shade and pattern, are seen, with Indian taffeties worked in flat embroidery, and are charmingly adapted for summer wear; several are worked in bouquets at the border of the dress, others in wreaths above the hem. In deshabille, ruffs are worn round the neck, named a la Maintenon; these are a simple collar, surmounted by a ruche.
Gros de Naples dresses of Indian green, for evening parties, are watered.
It is no longer fashionable to wear any stiffening under the sleeves, a la Mameluke. It is the mode now for them to fall entirely from the shoulders. White sleeves, worn with coloured gowns in half dress, with a narrow waist-band, increase daily in favour.

HEAD-DRESSES. Ladies who go to balls, but who do not dance, wear as a head-dress the Cardinal’s hat, or turbans of gold or silver tissue.
A pretty cap a la fiancee Neapolitaine, has lately appeared.
Now, more than ever, are bandeaux in hair adopted by our fashionables; but whether such a lady wears on her head a cap, a hat, or a beret, when she is full dressed, she must have, on each side of her coiffeure, or behind, two appendages, which may give her the semblance of being dressed for court; only instead of parting them according to the etiquette of the lappets for the drawing-room, they must not be separated, but must fall over the back, or only over one shoulder.
Lately at a dramatic performance, a lady had a turban of Navarin blue crape, with hair-stripes of silver; it was ornamented with two birds of Paradise, arched over each other.
At the theatres, and at evening parties, the berets are very simple and elegant, and are of crape ornamented with two tufts of ribbons, cut in leaves. Toques a la Francis I., are much worn at concerts ; they are of crape, or of watered gros de Naples, and instead of a feather, they have round the crown a row of ribbon, folded en fers de lances, with a branch of lilac or jessamine, placed vertically.
At a late musical party, a very pretty woman was seen in a very elegant cap a la fiancee; it was of white blond, ornamented with puffs of gauze ribbon, with satin stripes, and was crowned with full-blown roses.
Young persons have their hair arranged in the Chinese fashion, and take great pains in forming the small ring-curls which are near the ears above each temple. To keep these in proper order they use gum-arabic, and sugar and water.
The hair to be very short at the nape of the neck is also another serious care ; and there it is formed in small cork-screw ringlets.
Small morning caps are less trimmed than they were last summer. They have a single border of lace, and are very slightly ornamented with ribbon. Caps for home dress are of very fine tulle; round the front is a broad border, festooned en cretes de coq; and two long lappets, festooned likewise, serve instead of ribbons to fasten them under the chin. In the composition of a blond cap there is now to be seen a band of white chip, which the fashionists turn round in a manner so as to form a horse-shoe over each temple; there are introduced two tufts of hair, with two light curls.

DRESSES AT LONGCHAMP.

JEWELLERY. – The buckles for ladies belts are of gold, ornamented with eight precious stones, set transparent; two malachites, two red cornelians, two white, and two topazes. These stones are all irradiated, as we often see brilliants. The malachites occupy one extremity of the buckle, and the six other stones ornament the sides.
The keys which the ladies now hang to their chatelaines are enamelled, and the rings have their coat of arms engraven on them.

MISCELLANEOUS. – At balls some ladies wear white silk stockings, brocaded over with Cachemere flowers.
Ladies of fashion wear feathers of the Cassowary, the plumage of this bird is of a beautiful black. In 1796, and 1797, Le Jardin des Plantes, at Paris, possessed a Cassaworay. This bird was as tall as an ostrich, and very voracious; they fed it with bread, potatoes, and carrots. The first Cassaworay ever seen in Europe was brought into Holland, in 1597.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to June 1829

Back to April 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazine de Modes is replete with every fashionable article; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c., &c., AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

COSTUME OF ALL NATIONS, (NO. 38.) JEWISH REBECCA.

There are very few, we believe, who have not perused the novel of Ivanhoe, and who have not dwelt with delight, on the charming character there pourtrayed, of a most lovely and excellent female of Jewish race, the matchless “Rebecca.” She is again presented to the public eye, on the stage, in the popular piece of the “Maid of Judah;” and we now present her as an embellishment to the “WORLD OF FASHION,” in a fancy costume, as splendid as any heretofore worn by the most distinguished daughters of Sion, and particularly becoming as a dress for a fete, or a ball.
Over a petticoat of white Indian silk, embroidered with gold, at the border, is a robe, open in front of the skirt, of Velvet; the colour of the far famed Tyrian-purple. A deep, and very rich fringe of gold, finishes the border of this robe, which descends only low enough to discover the gold border on the white petticoat. Above this fringe is a row of palm-leaves embroidered in gold, green, and scarlet; and the robe is figured over, in a smaller pattern, embroidered in the same manner. The body fits the shape, and is striped downwards with gold; it discovers a chemisette-tucker of fine linen, worked with different colours, and finished by a narrow gold lace. The sleeves are long, and of white silk, studded over with small precious stones of various colours. From the purple velvet strap on the shoulder, descends a row of gold fringe over the top of the sleeve, en mancheron. Over the left shoulder is a sash of oriental gauze, of a saffron colour; this, crossing over the back, hangs carelessly over the right hip, and from thence, ties in a rosette on the left side, the ends finished by a broader, yet lighter kind of fringe than that on the robe. The turban is of white, and very slight Indian silk, and is ornamented in the same manner as the sleeves. It is looped up in front by an ornament of finely wrought gold, with a small rosette tuft at the summit, of Tyrian-purple feathers, from whence waves over the left side, a tail of the bird-of paradise. The hair curls beautifully over the back and shoulders; and a superb forehead-jewel, splendidly set in gold, which forms the most conspicuous part, is placed across the hair in front. The necklace is composed of the richest jewellery, in two rows, set a l’antique, with drop ornaments of wrought gold. The bracelets are entirely of gold; two are worn on the left wrist, and only one on the right. The small Jewish slippers are of Aurora, or saffron-colour, with gold rosettes

AN EVENING DRESS.

A dress of white crepe lisse over white satin, with a broad hem round the border, headed by oreilles de lievres, of white satin every ear edged, as they lie over each other, by a shaded rouleau of yellow and pomegranate, a rouleau of which seems to support these ornaments together, and terminates the heading of the hem. The corsage is a la Circassiene, and is confined by a girdle with a full rosette of white satin on the left side, from which descend three cordons of yellow and pomegranate, which spread out till they nearly attain the head of the border, where they are each terminated by a bonquet of flowers. The sleeves are short, and very full, and the fullness confined in the middle by a band of white satin. A small bow of white satin is fixed on the outside of the arm on the sleeve, next the shoulder, and a falling tucker of blond surrounds the bust. The hair is arranged in curls on each side of the face, and small bars on the summit of the head. An elegant ornament, in the eastern style, of white gauze, richly figured, is disposed, with much taste, across the tresses, and crowned with a superb bouquet of full blown Provence roses. The earrings and necklace are of large pearls; those which compose the latter, are set seperately, a l’antique. Very broad gold bracelets are worn over the gloves, fastened by a cluster of turquoise stones.

AN EVENING DRESS.

A dress of blush-coloured satin, bordered by two flounces; that next the feet, which is deeper than that above, is beautifully embroidered at the edges, in small branches of of delicate foliage in dark olive green floize silk, and the edge, which is in points, is finished by three rows of narrow beading of the same colour. The upper flounce, which is set on fuller, has no embroidery, but the points are edged in the same manner as that next the shoe. Above this is a row of branches, worked in the same manner, and in the same colour as those above described; the seams also of the dress have similiar embroidery down each side in front. The corsage is a la Roxalane; the sleeves short, and much puffed out, finished at the shoulders by points, edged with dark olive beading; in front of each a damask rose, with green foliage. The head-dress consists of a Spanish toque of blush coloured satin; three short white feathers, taking a spiral direction, grace the right side; on the left are seen playing, three still shorter; and below the left ear are two. The ear-rings and necklace are of various coloured gems, pointed and irradiated. Bracelets are worn over the gloves of light green and gold enamel, fastened by a ruby.

AN EVENING DRESS.

A dress of white crape, bordered by a very broad hem, at the head of which is painted en Serpentine, double rows of foliage, consisting of branches of cypress, in light willow-green, yellow, and vermillion. The corsage of white satin, fitting very tight at the smaller part of the waist, and at the top of the bust, a la Roxelane. Down the front of the waist is an ornament of gold chain-work, and the body is finished in a point, at the base, with the same kind of trimming, serving as a girdle. A narrow, falling tucker, of two rows of blond, surrounds the bust. The sleeves short, very full, and ornamented in front of the arm with a branch of painted cypress leaves, to correspond with those on the skirt. A turban of white crape and blond graces the head; its folds confined by ornaments of myrtle-green and gold. On the left side is an esprit feather of the same colour, and, from the towering upward to the summit, is a bouquet formed of purple, double lark-spurs, white lark-spurs, thistles, and green corn. The ear-pendants and necklace are formed of rubies and diamonds. The bracelets, which are very broad, are of gold and turquoise stones.

AN EVENING DRESS.

A dress of soft satin, the very lightest shade of celestial-blue, trimmed round the border by two deep flounces, the upper one falling over the other; at the edge of each flounce is a narrow rouleau of olive-brown satin, surmounted by a row of yellow butterflies, beautifully embroidered, and over the upper flounce are two rows on the dress, of the same summer insect. This new dress, we are happy to see, is evidently shorter in the waist than has been worn of late; it is made quite plain, and confined round the waist by a simple belt of satin, without any point. Round the tucker part of the corsage is a collar, en Paladin, the same as the dress, edged round with narrow blond, headed by an olive brown rouleau; over this falls a frill of blond, of the most rich and splendid pattern. The sleeves are plain, short, and full. The hair is elegantly and fashionably arranged, and is crowned by a double, open coronet-wreath of flowers; the lower part of which obliquely crosses the forehead, while the upper part, which is most varied in colours, is placed at the base of the Apollo-knot. On the right side is a large bouquet, consisting of two large full blown Provence roses, and buds, with white double lark-spur, and blue lupins. The necklace, ear-pendants, and bracelets, are of opal; the latter very broad, with chain-work of gold next the wrist.

AN EVENING DRESS.

A dress of white crape, with a very broad hem at the border, over which is embroidered a rich Mogul pattern in green and gold. The points of this oriental pattern depend downwards, and to every fourth point hangs a small light chaplet of green and gold. The corsage is a la Roxelane, and is confined round the waist by a belt of green satin. The tucker part is surrounded by an ornament in chain-work, of small beads, to which are suspended drops en girandoles. The sleeves are short, and very full, surmounted each by a double frill of blond. The hair is dressed very wide on each side of the face, and in full clusters of curls The summit is wound round and round in stiff plats, till it is formed into a corbeille, in the centre of which is a mass of curls. Long branches of heath, with scarlet blossoms adorn each side of the head. A bandeau of white am gold enamel, with three pear-pearls in the centre, en girandole, crosses the upper part of the forehead.

DINNER DRESS.

A dress of white Greek-velvet, painted en colonnes, of lowers, in various colours. A border, consisting of scrolls of the same material as the dress, so disposed, as to appear like large leaves pointing downwards; these are bound round with satin; one side of the edge in lilac, the other in yellow. Divided by a narrow rouleau of yellow satin, are smaller scrolls, standing erect, and forming a kind of head to the border; between each of these is a puff of white crape or satin. The body is made plain, and round the tucker part is a notched ornament, each notch bound round alternately with lilac or yellow; over this falls a triple tucker of blond, very full. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, immensely large, and very full; they are confined at the wrist by a broad gold bracelet, and next the hand is a narrow double ruffle of blond. The head-dress consists of a white gauze Greek turban, enlaced by lemon-coloured satin ribbon, and ornamented by two plumes of white feathers, representing the tails of the bird-of-paradise. The necklace is formed of two rows of pearls, and the ear-pendants are two pear-pearls.
N. B. – A back view of the above costume.

FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.

FIG. 1 and 2. – Turban-toque, (back and front view) of lama-gauze, and figured satin; the gauze pink and black, the satin part white, with painted figures of an eastern pattern, in deep Mogul-red and lemon-colour. White plumage, formed of feathers representing the tail of the bird-of-paradise, floats over the left side.
FIG. 3 and 4. – Back and front view of a dress hat, of white satin, ornamented under the left side of the brim, with a small plume of white ostrich feathers, and on the right side with a full rosette of blond; the crown splendidly adorned with white blond, and a full plume of white ostrich feathers.
FIG. 5 and 6. – Back and front view of a blond cap, for half dress, with a very broad border of a Vandyck pattern, turned back, and next the hair a beautiful and delicate wreath, composed of heath in blossom; much blond is displayed in the rest of the ornaments, with pink satin rouleaux.
FIG. 7. Coiffeure composed of puffs of ribbon; blue gauze and silver, mingled with puffs of pink satin.
FIG. 8. Back view of the same kind of head-dress, entirely in pink ribbon.

FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES, BUSTS, &C.

FIG. 1. – Oriental toque of Cachemire gauze, figured en sechal, and formed, in front, like an eastern diadem-turban; from whence it is wound round to the summit of the head, where the hair is arranged by braids a la Grecque, and much elevated.
FIG. 2. – Back view of the same kind of head-dress, in pink gauze.
FIG. 3. – Back and front view of the hair disposed in the Grecian style, and tastefully ornamented with full-blown roses, and pink and blue double-larkspurs.
FIG. 4. – Hair arranged a la Chinoise, and crowned on the summit by bouquets of roses and blue-bells. A bandeau, formed of one row of pearls, crosses the forehead, where the hair separates. Ear-pendants of pearls, en girandoles.
N.B. – A back view of the same coiffeure.
FIG. 5. – Head-dress in hair, a la Naide, with a bandeau of pearls across the forehead; the summit of the head is ornamented by plats of hair en corbeille, from whence ascend two loops of hair, forming a bow. Above these, on the right side, appears a coronet comb of gold, and the whole is crowned by blue larkspurs and monks’-hood.
N.B. – Back view of a similar head-dress, with full-blown Summer roses and green foliage.
FIG. 6. A blond cap, with a broad pointed border, turned back, and flowers on each temple, of an exotic kind, pink, with long green foliage. A few puffs of pink ribbon form the additional ornaments, strings of which float over the shoulders.
N.B. – Back view of the same cap, ornamented with steam-yellow gauze ribbon.
FIG. 7. – Moorish turban of ponceau and yellow crape. A back view represents the same kind of turban in Navarin-blue and lemon-colour.
FIG. 8. – Promenade bonnet of emerald-green, lined with white, and trimmed with the same coloured ribbon, with a few puffs of white satin ribbon intermingled.
FIG. 9. – Back view of a bonnet, for walking, of lavender gros de Naples, trimmed with the same. Both these bonnets tie under the chin with a mentonniere of blond.
FIG. 10. Back and front view of a cap of black blond, ornamented with pink gauze ribbon, with black satin stripes. The crown en treillage, formed of rouleaux of pink satin.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR APRIL, 1829.

Though the evening dress parties have not been many, and the balls, at present, but few, yet those which have taken place have been remarkably select and splendid: from such sources, and from the various elegancies which now continue in preparation, for such circles, according to increased and increasing orders at MRS. BELL’S tasteful Magazine de Modes, we are enabled to present our readers with a description of the following novelties in fashionable costume.
From the above-mentioned emporium of fashion, a carriage pelisse of the most elegant kind, has been just completed, to order, for a female of distinction: it is of a peculiarly rich Gros de Naples; the colour Navarin-blue; it is faced, and trimmed round the border by a broad ornament of black velvet, in Spanish points; between each of which is a rounded leaf, in velvet, edged by a narrow satin rouleau; the body is faced down the front in a correspondent manner. The sleeves are en jigot, with a broad gauntlet cuff of black velvet, pointed; and at the point three round leaves, forming a kind of tulip-ornament. Another favourite out-door dress, but more adapted for the promenade, is of Gros de Naples, and is made high; it is the colour of the marshmallow-blossom; it is bordered by a broad hem, headed by two stripes of black velvet, set at a distance from each other, about half an inch; these stripes are put on en serpentine; and from them issue on each side of the serpentine wave, branches of the leaves of Cypress; this foliage is of the same colour and material as the dress, and every leaf is edged round by black velvet. The body is a la Roxelane, the sleeves en jigot, with a pointed cuff, and next the hand is a narrow row of antique English points, edged with black velvet.
Amongst the dresses for the evening, those of velvet are not yet laid aside; we have seen one of much taste and elegance, finished down the front of the skirt in the Bavarian style; the robe, itself, is of black velvet of the softest texture, and hangs beautifully over the form. The apparent petticoat is of black satin crossed by straps formed of rouleaux of the same material, each ornamented in the centre as they point downwards, with a gold buckle: the front of the bust is en guimpe, and is finished in the same manner as the skirt. Over short sleeves of black velvet are those which are long, consisting of black Japanese gauze, with a very deep gauntlet-cuff, of black satin, and a row of gold buttons in bias, on the outside of the wrist. The poplin coloured silks, and coloured crape dresses for the ball and evening party have experienced no change, at present, worth recording; we generally give all the novelty in costume to our engravings, and when we have but little new to add in these our observations, we trust our indulgent readers will there find their expectations fulfilled of gaining every intelligence concerning the reigning costumes, in the “WORLD OF FASHION.”

The bonnets are still in an uncertain state, wavering continually between black velvet and satin, or white satin and coloured Gros de Naples; one carriage bonnet has, however, appeared, the form like those the French call hat-bonnets; having, in front, every appearance of a hat. This tasteful bonnet is of Egyptian plaid, pink and yellow ; it is trimmed with steam-yellow ribbon chequered with black, and ornamented with exotic flowers, which are yellow and scarlet, with green foliage formed of feathers.
A cap for receiving dinner parties at home, is an elegant novelty in the coiffeure department. It is of beautiful blond, the border excessively broad, and pointed at the edge: this border is turned back, with a full clustered wreath of small, and just-opening roses, both red and white, lying on the hair in front: the back of the caul is ornamented by a similar wreath, and bows of pink gauze ribbon, with satin stripes, complete the trimming. Another cap for home costume is of very fine Mechlin lace, and is ornamented with pink gauze, of which material there are long lappets. Rouleaux of satin draw up the handsome border en fers de Cheval; on each temple is a puff-rosette of pink gauze. A very pretty blond cap for half dress, has also much taste in its composition; it is made of fine tulle and narrow blond; there are bars of pink gauze striped ribbon over each temple, a white, double Narcissus with green folliage on the right side, with white jessamine, and its sombre-green leaves. We are happy to find the Opera head-dresses likely to become less annoying than when they consisted so much of large dress hats and capacious berets; charming turbans of oriental shape, and the most becoming size seem to be more in favour with the matronly beauty; these are often ornamented with a yellow plumage of a fancy kind, with very delicate flowers, in which is mingled a small portion of blue, which takes off from the monotony of the yellow plumage. Young ladies of rank are seen at the Opera and at evening full dress parties, with wreaths on their hair, formed of white crape roses, and jagged foliage of gold. Many ladies wear a full head-dress composed of coloured ostrich feathers.
The favourite colours are Navarin-blue, pink, marshmallow-blossom, steam-yellow and bright-rock-geranium.

NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.

HATS AND BONNETS. – Hats of black, green, or violet-coloured velvet, are yet very prevalent: very few are ornamented with feathers, but several are trimmed with blond, and puffs of velvet and ribbon.
Bonnets of coloured satin are also worn, lined with white and trimmed with white ribbon; the ribbons spotted with the same colour as the hat.
At the promenades, are seen many hats of rose-coloured satin trimmed with blond.
Instead of the usual round riding hat, many ladies wear with their riding-dresses, beaver bonnets tied close down, which fashion they call a l’Anglaise. Black veils with these bonnets, are universal.
Bonnets of gros de Naples, of English-green, have, at the edge, a ruche of black blond; very broad, to which is added a demi-veil of blond.
If there is any fashion which has survived the lapse of ages, it is that of wearing blonds; never were they in such favour as at the present day. At the promenade, be the hat or bonnet ever so simple, it is trimmed with the richest blond.
Several black velvet hats have appeared lately, trimmed with flat ostrich feathers. Under the brims are blue or rose-coloured ribbons, cut in leaves. The number of hats and bonnets in rose-coloured satin, with a demi-veil of blond at the edge, increases every day. Those of blue satin, lined with white, are much admired: they are ornamented with ribbon, and white blond. White willow feathers are seen on coloured velvet hats. There is a new kind of gros de Naples much in favour for hats and bonnets ; the ground is chamois-colour, with violet and green stripes, about three finger’s breadth distant from each other. The hats made of this silk, have narrow brims, and the sides are as wide as the front: the upper part of the crown is fluted. Green and violet feathers form the favourite ornaments on these hats. The trimming on the bonnets consist of long puffs of ribbon green and violet placed over the crown, and beneath the brim. A hat of lemon-coloured crape, or of English blue, is very fashionable; at the base of the crown is affixed, by a rosette of gauze ribbon, a branch of lilacs, or rather three branches fastened together. The direction of this ornament is vertical; a broad blond surrounds the edge of the brim. Some hats of lilac gros de Naples, have the crowns trimmed with eight or ten large puffs of gauze ribbon of English-green, with satin stripes. There are often seen on hats of white crape, trimmed with white gauze ribbon, two bunches of rose-coloured perriwinkles, one on the summit of the crown, towards the right, the other on the same side, at the edge of the brim.
Carriage-hats are what are called a l’Francois I. The brims very large, and turned up in front, where is placed a very long feather, which lies on the hair.

OUT-DOOR COSTUME. – Pelisses of steam-yellow satin, or rose-colour, are most fashionable.
Ermine tippets now take the place of the Boas, on the shoulders of women of fashion.
Muffs are still worn, and high dresses trimmed with marten or ermine.
Cloaks of satin, and pelerines of velvet, are now most admired when trimmed with blond.
Satin pelisses fasten down the front of the skirt, by gold buttons: they are ornamented above the broad hem at the border, by passementerie.

DRESSES. – A rich dress of blue gauze, is much admired in grande parure. Above the broad hem, at the border, is a full ornament of beading. A bunch of marabout feathers is fastened on one side of the dress, by a butterfly, formed of coloured jewels. Some dresses of rose-crape are trimmed with a ruche below the hem, next the feet, and which is carried up in a point towards one side of the skirt. On the white crape dresses, the bouquets are painted on the hem, instead of being above it. All the short sleeves are en berets; the plaits either very large, or remarkably small. Above the blond which surrounds the bust of ball dresses, there is sometimes a narrow ruche. Above the hem of a crape dress, the colour, bird-of-paradise, was lately seen five rows of satin points, very close to each other, and forming a most elegant trimming.
Blond canezous are often worn with silk dresses, and those of tulle, with muslin gowns, are fastened in front by half a dozen buttons in gold or jewels, like those worn by gentlemen. One of these canazous in blond, destined to be worn with a dress of blue velvet, formed brandenburghs by its embroidery, which were surrounded by narrow gold braiding, which were joined in front by a double gold tassel, passed through a button-hole.
At dress parties, are seen rose-coloured, or steam-yellow satin dresses, which are trimmed round the tucker part of the corsage, with several rows of pearls, and a friar’s belt of pearls incircles the waist. A dress of cherry-coloured velvet, has, above the hem, a broad silver fringe, a sash embroidered with silver, and wide sleeves of tulle, embroidered in silver. Another dress is of Ispahan-velvet, painted in columns of flowers, in different colours. The gowns are made very low at the shoulders and back, and the greater part have drapery on the corsage. Some dresses of black velvet have the sleeves slashed a l’Espagnole, and the slashes filled in by puckerings of tulle. A dress of Russia-satin, of a pearl-grey, has been much admired, with long sleeves; and, at the upper part of the arm, eight or ten regular plaits, very close together, which represented the wings of an English corps of light infantry.
There are some short sleeves that impart the idea of those pavillions formed of great pipes, or shanks of trees, which are used at the portals of a palace to extinguish the flambeaux that are carried before the king and the princes.
Spotted and stamped merinos, in colours, are yet in favour for deshabille; all these kind of dresses have one deep flounce, en rideau, and a pelerine surrounded by a broad trimming, is worn with them. For half dress, a merino should be embroidered above the hem, or if trimmed with a flounce, that should be embroidered at the edge.

HEAD-DRESSES. – Marabouts, mingled with six or eight butterflies in precious stones, form a favourite head-dress: the butterflies are of all shades and sizes. Never were the feathers nor the esprits disposed in the hair with so much taste as in this year. The hair is platted or twisted in cordons, separated at intervals by gold and precious stone ornaments.
Caps of blond, which have cauls, have in front, no other trimming than a few puffs of ribbons, with cut ends. Others of pink tulle, have bands of the same, festooned in long pointed plaits, which form a large tuft on one side, and terminate on the other by a ruche, which surrounds the whole of the cap, behind.
At the Opera, are seen several berets of black velvet, in the Spanish style; they are ornamented with ponceau, or white feathers; some are turned up on one side by loops of gold or pearls, and these very much resemble the small hats worn in the reign of Francis I.
Head dresses in hair are numerous. Those are particularly distinguished where the bows of hair behind, unite with those in front, so that they form two bandeaux on each side of the forehead. The summit of the head is ornamented with an arrow which crosses the bows, or one single large full blown rose, surrounded by an auriole of small flowers.
The blond dress caps are so disposed as to display the tufts of hair, through those ornaments which serve in lieu of a caul.
Several ladies wear a broad gothic ornament in front of their hair, composed of differently coloured stones, surmounted by a bird-of-paradise, or a heron’s plume.
A wreath of small roses, placed obliquely over the left ear, is a favourite ornament on the hair of many ladies.
A cardinal’s hat in black velvet, trimmed with gold lace and tufts, which hang two and two, from right to left, are fastened by two gold runners; these are terminated by tassels, descending as low as the shoulders. To the same hat is appended two lappets of gaze-lisse, on each side. A toque of cherry-coloured velvet, bordered by a very broad blond, is ornamented with narrow tresses of gold, and half covered by a diadem of flowers with long stalks.
The head-dresses form a perfect museum of jewellery ornaments of every kind; white feathers mingled with diamond ears of corn is a very favourite coiffeure. Almost all the ball head-dresses consist of three butterflies placed on very long stalks, which appear hovering over the bows of hair on the summit of the head. Several bouquets, or a wreath of foliage with gold flowers, have a very pretty effect on the hair at candle-light. Turbans of gold and silver gauze are ornamented with a bird-of-paradise; and ladies, eminent for their taste in dress, wear the Moabitish turban, of white tissue-gauze, surrounded by gold ornaments, or those of ponceau.
Ladies of fashion continue to wear their hair a la Grecque; the outre appearance of which is devoid of all grace, but it is the reigning mode. Gauze, entwined amongst the hair, is the most distinguishing ornament. Black velvet berets, ornamented with white flowers and white feathers, are in high favour.

JEWELLERY. Butterflies, formed of coloured stones, are so fashionable this winter, that we give as a proof a description of a present lately made to one of the most pretty women of fashion in Paris. It was a magnificent casket of jewels, containing an assortment of twelve butterflies, some of which had their wings formed of small diamonds, and the body in enamel; others were of rubies, emeralds, and various other stones. There was one in topazes, spotted with black. All the gold pins, which served to fasten the butterflies, were ranged in symmetrical order in the casket.
Golden arrows, and those of pearls and of diamonds, are much in favour as ornaments on the hair.
Some of the Chatelaines are now ornamented with seals. Narrow bracelets, of wrought gold, are used to keep the gloves tight above the wrists.
Broad bracelets, of tortoise-shell, are a novelty in jewellery; these are ornamented with divisions of gold in open work. In all the trinket-boxes now, in order to have the head dressed it a la Psyche, is a large butterfly, either in gold enamel, or in jewellery of great or small value. Those who have not viewed closely the setting of this bijou, cannot form an idea of the manner in which the butterfly is set, and, in particular, of the ingenious process, by aid of which it vibrates constantly over the jewels, or the artificial flowers.
1st, A double stalk, or pin with two branches forked, serves to fix the butterfly in the hair in front of the bows, the comb, or the plats, &c.
2d, A spring serves to bring the insect more or less forward, or to change the direction to higher or lower. This little hinge is of the same kind as those which in diamond wheatsheaves, or in aigrettes, allow any one to bend down, or to raise the different ears of the sheaf or the aigrette.
3rd, The body of the butterfly is directly fixed on a spiral stalk ; but sometimes this spiral direction is horizontal, like as in the motion of a watch we find the pendulum laid flat. Sometimes the spiral is vertical, and of the form of those spirals which support the heads or balls of the Glanirna pins.
There are butterflies a la Psyche, of the most exquisite workmanship, of very high price.
There are, also, seen at the jewellers, trinket-boxes, which contain a beautiful flower, formed of differently-coloured gems, ornamented with branches of every kind of gold, wrought in the most delicate manner. These flowers are placed on a long pin, and are put in the hair over the front. This is a very fashionable ornament. There are roses in diamonds, the petals of which are formed of small rubies, the leaves by emeralds, and the stalks of gold.
Another jewellery ornament is a comb ornamented with a triple row of diamonds, two diamond butterflies, and single diamonds set in a bandeau, which go twice round the hair.
Golden arrows and cameos are, also, favourite head-ornaments.
The Sevigne brooches, worn in the centre of the drapery across the bust, are formed of every kind of jewellery. Combs with a double gallery, each enriched with diamonds, and bouquets of corn, in which there are twenty ears, have been seen on the head of a noble duchess. Several ladies, in full-dress, wear diamond fillets, placed on the hair with a point in front, a la Marie Stuart.

MISCELLANEOUS. To ornament a ball dress, it is of no use to call in the assistance of the jeweller; the most antique and rare bijoux are now in request, and they borrow from those who are in possession of a cabinet of curiosities, decorating themselves with those necklaces and bracelets which have been found on mummies and on skeletons.
We have written before on the whimsical fashion of silk stockings, either black or white, and the half-boots of glaring colours. But at masqued balls it is a different affair. There were seen during the last carnival, on white silk stockings, a harlequin, a punchinello, and a devil climbing up a pine-tree or a yew. In full dress, however, it is now fashionable for a lady to have her silk stockings embroidered with gold, in lozenges, which takes up all the stocking on the instep, and ascends as high as where a half-boot generally terminates. The two clocks are richly ornamented.
White gloves, both long and short, have a slight embroidery, in gold, on the back of the hand.
The half-boots worn by the French elegantes have heels about half an inch in height.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to May 1829

Back to March 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

COSTUMES OF ALL NATIONS. NO. 37. – QUEEN ELIZABETH (centre figure).

In this truly majestic costume, out of the great variety of habits possessed by the Virgin Queen, did this extraordinary and highly-gifted female, receive her foreign guests of distinction, and the ambassadors from different courts; it was in such a guise, perhaps, that she, at once, trifled with, feigned to accept, and, at length, jilted the youthful Anjou, when past the age of forty herself, even when the pledge of exchanged rings were given, and the prince regarded her as his betrothed wife. In a dress somewhat similar to this, the beautiful lady of our present ambassador to France, appeared very lately at a splendid fancy ball given by her Royal Highness MADAME.
Over a petticoat of white satin, richly trimmed, en falbalas, with fine point lace, is a velvet robe of royal purple, embroidered with gold, and faced and bordered with ermine; this robe had drapery sleeves of the same, very much like those, newly designated by the name of Spanish draperies; these were lined with satin of a bright yellow, and edged round with ermine. The sleeves were precisely en jigot, and were of white satin, over which was a network in diamonds, formed of narrow white satin ribbon; and within each diamond was a single precious stone ; these were an emerald, a topaz, and a ruby: the bust was cruelly confined by very tight and stiff stays, which concealed and destroyed all its contour. Foreign writers have spoken concerning this queen going “bare-necked;” but what little Elizabeth discovered of her neck, would not be indecorous at any age. The stomacher to the body of her velvet robe was superb; it was shaped out by a row of very large pearls, and was of white satin, with net-work to correspond with that of the sleeves ; but the stomacher net-work was of pearls; and in the centre of each diamond was a small rosace, composed of the same valuable materials, or sometimes of diamonds. Her regal head-dress was a cap of purple velvet, surmounted by a sovereign’s crown, in outline, of large oriental pearls, with the cross of gold. The base of the crown surrounded by point lace, on which was a row of sapphires. The border of the cap was of that kind which obtained the appellation of Mary Stuart’s; but it might as well have been styled Mary Tudor’s, for that sister of Elizabeth wore this kind of cap, we believe, before the unfortunate Queen of Scots was born. The border of the cap was set with jewels. The ruff of Elizabeth’s own invention, and which still bears her name, was of rich point lace, and was bordered by gold and jewels; these kind of ruffs were not only very stiffly starched, but were set out with wires. A necklace of very large pearls, in two rows, with a diamond cross, completed the dress.
Elizabeth was never known to bestow any dress on her attendants; when she died, upwards of a thousand different kinds of gowns, and costumes of every nation, filled the wardrobe.

WALKING DRESS.

A tunique satin pelisse of sage-leaf-green, with a very broad Witzchoura border of ermine, discovering a small portion, next the shoe, of the skirt underneath; down each side in front of the pelisse, which is left slightly open, are two rows of ermine. The corsage is made plain, and concealed by a fichu-pelerine, the same as the pelisse, edged round with ermine . The sleeves en jigot, and very wide; confined at the wrist by a broad cuff of ermine. A belt, of a novel kind, is worn round the waist; it is elastic, and in colour suits the pelisse. From the front are three splendid cordon ornaments, fastened by oval buckles of gold to the belt: these are of sage-leaf-green, and are entwined with flat silk braiding, two shades darker; three superb tassels of this latter shade terminate the cordons, and depend as low as the top of the Witzchoura border. The bonnet is of bright gold-coloured gros des Indes, trimmed and lined with pink.

WEDDING DRESS.

Over a white satin slip is worn dress of beautifully figured tulle, en colonnes; with two deep flounces of blond, in a pattern corresponding with the stripes on the skirt. The body made tight to the shape, with a collar en paladin, surrounding the bust, which is very low, and falling off the shoulders. The sleeves are short, and are formed of rows of tulle falling over each other, and finished at the edges with quillings of narrow blond; from the shoulders depend two rich tassels of white silk, and form elegant ornaments on the sleeves. The waist is encircled by a friar’s belt of silk cordon, with superb tassels at the end, depending just above the upper flounce. Over the gloves, on the right wrist, are two bracelets; that next the hand consisting of two rows of turquoise-stones; that above, of the same stones, and of wrought gold, clasped by a large torquoise. On the left wrist is a simple row of larger torquoise-stones, easily unclasped, for the left finger to receive the golden fetter of marriage. The hair is beautifully and becomingly arranged in curls on each side of the face, and in bows of hair on the summit of the head. A long veil of fine white blond is tastefully fastened on the hair, and floats over the figure behind, nearly as low as the ancles: the ornaments on the hair are two bouquets of orange-flowers, with their foliage. The ear-pendants are of gold, and the necklace of finely wrought gold, separated by the small flowers “forget me not,” formed of turquoise-stones and gold; these beautiful ornaments arc placed at equal distances, looping together the chain-work of the wrought gold. In the centre of the paladin-collar, surrounding the bust, is a handsome brooch in the shape of a Maltese Cross, of large torquoise- stones set in gold.

EVENING DRESS.

A dress of tulle over white gros de Naples, with a deep flounce round the border, edged by two rows of chain-work, formed of pink satin rouleaux: this flounce is headed in the same manner, and has the appearance of being confined down to the dress. The corsage is made plain, with a very broad falling tucker of blond, confined in the centre by a row of pink satin chain-work. The sleeves short and very full, with a narrow pink satin band round the arm. A pointed belt a la Cordeliere, encircles the waist, with one end composed of large balls of woven silk, ending in a very superb tassel; this belt is pink. The hair is arranged in the new Parisian style, extending on one side very much beyond the face, and on the other in massy ringlets: the Apollo-knot, formed of a very broad plat, and coming very near the forehead. A profusion of flowers, consisting of yellow rockets, tuberoses, full-blown red roses, blue China-astres, and a few small field-flowers, complete the coiffeure. The necklace is formed of two rows of pearls, with three pear-pearls in the centre.

BALL, OR EVENING DRESS.

A dress of celestial -blue crape, with a border formed of scrolls, in rideaux– drapery of blue satin; each upheld and ornamented by full wreaths of blue and white flowers. Over the top of this border are notched ornaments, each doubled so as to form a point, and edged round by narrow black satin ribbon. The corsage is a la Circassienne, confined by a sash, with long broad ends, finely painted on a ground of blue, with ears and leaves of the Indian corn. A bouquet of tuberoses is placed in the left side of this sash. The sleeves are short, with cleft mancherons of blue crape, edged with narrow Vandyck–blond, a row of which surrounds the arm at the termination of the sleeve: between the clefts of the mancherons are small blue and white flowers. The hair is arranged a la Madonna, entirely without curls, and the braids on each side of the face, with the knot on the summit of the head, appear as one large bow of four loops. In the centre is a white China-astre, red in the middle, and on the left side a spiral aigrette formed of red and green foliage ; on the right side a half wreath, terminating at the back of the head, of one row of blue flowers, the “forget-me-not.” The ear-pendants are small, and of jet; and the necklace is formed of a single chain of jet. The bracelets on the right hand are of sapphires, set a l’antique; over this is a single row of jet beads. On the left hand are two narrow bracelets of pearls.

FASHIONABLE HEAD DRESSES.

FIG. 1. Evening Coiffeure. – The hair arranged in the Parisian style, with a few ringlets at the nape of the neck a l’Enfant. The hair extending wide on each side, and a broad plat crossing over near the forehead to the back of the head; the summit of which is ornamented with a large full-blown rose, white hyacinths, ears of Indian corn, and small field-flowers, mixed with ears of barley. Two butterflies are seen hovering over these flowers.
Fig. 2. Another head-dress for the evening party. – The hair arranged in the modern Greek style, with a bandeau of twisted beads across the forehead. Bows of ponceau-gauze ribbons, figured with black, ornament the head.
FIG. 3. – Hair arranged a la Sappho, the clusters of curls next the face more full than that antique head dress. Puffs of celestial-blue gauze, entwined with pearls, ornament this coiffeure. [For a front view of this coiffure, as well as the publication that it was stolen from, see Journal des Dames et des Modes, 20th of January 1829]
FIG. 4. – The hair, forming a head dress, composed of curls, parted on the forehead, and flowing in full ringlets down each side of the face. The Apollo ornament on the summit of the head much elevated, and ornamented in front, at the base, with cerulean-blue gauze, enriched by strings of pearls.
FIG. 5. – Back view of the same head dress, with pink gauze, and antique Grecian fillets at the back of the head, in pearls.

EVENING DRESS.

A dress of white crape, delicately painted above the broad hem round the border, in a pattern of vine-leaves and their tendrils. The body is made rather full, and something in the style a l’Enfant, but lower in the front of the bust, and at the shoulders; the tucker part surrounded by a falling frill of blond, rather narrow, headed by three very narrow rouleaux of vine-leaf green satin; in front appears, underneath a slight portion of a chemisette tucker, of the finest lace on lawn. The sleeves are short, plain, and full, and are confined by three rouleaux of green satin round the arm, terminated by a narrow ruffle of blond. The turban worn with this dress is of ponceau gauze, checquered with black, and ornamented with short ponceau feathers. The ear-pendants are of amethysts, and the bracelets of gold and cameos.

EVENING DRESS.

A dress of white crape, with a flounce in full quillings, en dents de loups, edged with a narrow rouleaux of green, of an olive tinge. Over this flounce, and lying on it, are embossed green satin leaves, of the water-lily. The corsage is made plain, and tight to the shape, with a narrow tippet, en Paladin, cleft at each shoulder, and edged with a very narrow blond, headed by a satin rouleau of the same green as that on the edge of the flounce. The sleeves are short and very full. The hair is dressed a la Naide; across the forehead is a bandeau formed of three strings of pearls, and placed obliquely. On the summit of the head, where the hair is much raised, are placed aquatic flowers, amongst which the Indian lotos, or water-lily of the East is most conspicuous.
Over this dress is thrown a white swan’s-down tippet, tinged with pink, of the long, round kind. The ear-pendants are large and long, and are of finely chased gold.

MORNING DRESS.

A pelisse of satin, the colour of the Parma-violet, with a tablier kind of ornament, in velvet, of the same colour; this is narrow at the base of the waist, extending gradually as it reaches the feet, and is notched at the edges in the antique Paracenic style; a fichu pelerine, finished in the same manner, and of the same material, covers the bust in front, and falls over the tops of the shoulders. The sleeves a la Mameluke, with a very tight velvet cuff, notched like the pelerine, &c. A blond ruff encircles the throat, tied in front with a bow of emerald-green satin ribbon. A hat of black velvet is fastened down by a blond mentonniere, tied on the right side by emerald green ribbon, and under the brim is an ornament representing leaves, grouped together, of the same colour, in satin, puckerings of which adorn the crown of the hat, with a bow of very long loops, of green ribbon, placed on the right side of the summit. A long gold chain, of large links, is thrown over the bust, with a watch or an eye-glass depending; and some ladies wear the French ornament called a chatelaine, at the side of the belt; this is of gold, with medallions, &c., and keys, seals, and other trifles are suspended to it. A reticule of emerald green velvet, slightly embroidered in gold, is carried in the left hand.

FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.

FIG. 1. – Back view of the head-dress in hair, a la Naide.
FIG. 2. – Bonnet for the Morning Walk; of black velvet, trimmed with ruby satin ribbon, strings of which float loose.

WALKING DRESS.

A pelisse of black, Indian reps silk, with a very broad hem round the border, headed by a narrow rouleau of silver grey satin; down each side of the skirt in front, placed on in the Bavarian style, are ornaments of separate leaves depending, of the same colour and material as the pelisse, edged round with silver grey ; at the base of each is a gold button. The body is made tight to the shape, and ornamented with black Brandenburghs; and fastened across the waist by a belt, with three gold buttons. The sleeves are full, plain, and in the gigot form. A beautiful Thibet shawl-scarf is thrown over this dress, in elegant drapery; it is of a bright etherial blue, with a broad, and elegant border at the ends, of large palm leaves, delicately wrought in bright and varied colours, and terminated by a deep rich fringe. The bonnet is of white, watered gros de Naples, trimmed with the same, en feuillages, edged with blond: this bonnet is ornamented under the brim, on the right side, with a plaiting of blond, broad, and appearing like the border of a small cap, underneath: on the opposite side are two loops of broad, white, striped gauze ribbon, strings of which tie the bonnet close down. Boots of silver grey kid complete the dress.

EVENING DRESS.

A dress of the lightest shade of lavender satin; at the border a full trimming of crepe-lisse of the same colour, bouillone; this is headed by two narrow rouleaux of satin, two shades darker; embossed jagged leaves falling over the top of the bouillon, and the rouleaux surmounted by bows of the dark lavender in satin. The corsage made quite plain, and tight to the shape. The tucker part sur- rounded by a double frill of white crepe Aerophane, edged with narow satin rouleaux of lavender, of which colour and material, are small detached leaves ornamenting the frill. The sleeves are of white crepe Aerophone, a la Mameluke, and confined at the wrists by broad, gold bracelets fastened by a cameo. Round the waist is a simple belt, to correspond with the dress ; and on the right side depends a chatelaine of gold, with a watch, small key, essence box, and other trifles. The dress hat is of white velvet, trimmed with blond and white satin, and crowned with a light and elegant plumage of white feathers. From the left aide depend three long lappets of white gauze ribbon.

FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.

FIG. 1. Evening Coiffeure. The hair elegantly arranged in full curls on each side of the face, with a small bow of hair on the summit of the head; behind which are two loops of pink gauze ribbon. A plumage of pink feathers, with a bandeau of gold across the forehead, having a medallion in the centre, complete the head-dress.
FIG. 2. – Back view of the same style of Coiffeure, with white plumage.
FIG. 3. – Cap for Home Costume. A cap of blond, with very broad border, finished in points, and turned back; next the hair, in front, are three loops of very broad gauze ribbon, of a lavender colour; two of which adorn the summit of the crown, and strings of the same ribbon float over each shoulder.
FIG. 4. – A back view of a similar cap, trimmed with a ribbon of vine leaf green.
FIG. 5. – Back view of an Opera Hat. A hat of white velvet, richly ornamented with tulle, blond, and white satin. An elegant plume of white feathers plays over the crown, in front. Long strings of white gauze ribbon float over the shoulders.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR MARCH, 1829.

Conversation now no longer languishes in our polite circles; all is animation, all is energy in this first of cities: while the gentlemen are discussing politics, their wives and daughters are expatiating on those artists whose charming works adorn the walls of the British Institution; on those of the new singers at the Italian Opera, the latest select evening party, and all the glories of the great world.
Fashion and her changes form a never failing theme; our authentic information on this important subject, enables us to present a true statement of female attire to the inspection of those who rank high in her train, yet reside much on their estates in the country, where we have the advantage of being able to boast of many kind and generous patronesses, as well as in the sister kingdoms.
The few novelties, however, which have appeared, relate to the evening and dinner party; in out-door costume, it is not likely, during the present uncertain time of the season to bear any very decided feature: in the first place, therefore, we hasten to describe what peculiarly struck us; which was a dress for an evening party, of a remarkably bright scarlet gros de Naples, bordered by two deep flounces, set on in Chevron-festoons, Vandyked at the edges, and trimmed with a broad layer of satin, the same colour as the dress, placed at about half an inch from the edge. The body was a la Circassienne, with the drapery of scarlet crape. Long sleeves of white crepe lisse are worn over short ones of white satin, with Persian draperies of scarlet gauze, bound round with satin, in narrow bias. A cuff terminates the sleeve at the wrist, with a very conspicuous point on the outside of the arm, of scarlet silk elegantly painted in various colours. Dresses of red, either crimson, ponceau, Chinese-rose, or ruby, are much in favour; they are of gros de Naples, velvet or satin. The corsages are much cut away from the shoulders ; and long sleeves are more capacious than ever ; the short sleeves are also very wide.
Coloured velvet dresses, trimmed with white blond, are much admired : the corsages have drapery, which is generally of gauze or crape, and, is either in the Circassian or the Sevigne style.
We have seen a very beautiful bonnet of black satin, figured en Arabesques, it is tastefully trimmed with black blond about the crown, and with pink ribbon, chequered with black, and edged on each side with yellow satin stripes, on which are clouds of black. The strings are in a loop. A favorite bonnet for the carriage is of myrtle green gros de Naples, lined with canary-yellow; and ornamented on the crown with fers de Cheval, in scrolls of myrtle-green, lined with yellow and with black blond: this bonnet is adorned with three plumes formed of the tails of the bird of paradise in green and yellow, separated by bows of ribbon, corresponding in colour with the silk of the bonnet.
Among the new coiffeures is the Spanish-Cardinal-Beret. of bright ruby Indian reps silk ; this head-dress so strikingly elegant, is bound round the edge of the brim with gold lace : the crown is in treillage work; and is composed of ruby satin and gold. From the separation in front, over the forehead, depend two superb-tassels of gold, which fall over the left temple, and a beautiful white plumage plays over, and finishes this magnificent beret. A most elegant dress cap of blond, for evening parties or dinners of ceremony, is among the striking novelties of the present day. The blond is of the richest and finest texture and is disposed in fan ornaments, lightly falling over each other ; the crown is open in treillage work, and is of white satin and silver lama, a bandeau of which crosses the forehead, and is of beautiful workmanship: over this splendid cap are tastefully scattered, in separate flowers, a profusion of the Summer-rose, in full bloom. A turban of pink satin and crape, classically folded, is another new article among the coiffeure department; it is infinitely becoming, though large, and is in the form of the turbans worn by the Moorish Princes.
In the out-door envelopes nothing new can be expected to take place till about the middle of March, at the soonest. Pelisses are, certainly, more in favour than cloaks, except for the carriage, where they are seen of a very superb kind; but in neither of these can we yet expect any particular novelty.
We highly recommend a very elegant dress tippet, which we saw belonging to a very charming young lady, at the court end of the town; and as young people in large parties are often seated near the door, such precautionary coverings are as useful as they are ornamental. This round tippet was formed of celestial-blue and white crape, and had the two colours mingled, en clochettes: the whole appearance of this graceful appendage was light, and unobtrusive, though well adapted to the dress party.
The colours most admired, are celestial-blue, myrtle-green, canary-yellow, scarlet, ruby, and pink.

NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.

HATS AND BONNETS. – The hats are chiefly of black or rose-colour; violet-colour lined with white, green with ponceau, brown with, yellow; the red and blue are plain, and trimmed with the same colours. When a hat is not adorned with a willow feather, or two esprits, it has, for ornament, several long, white feathers. White satin bonnets, with a demi-veil of blond, are much admired.
It is not only hats and bonnets of gros de Naples which are embroidered in silk. A satin bonnet of Russian green has appeared, worked in a pattern, with white silk. The rosettes and the strings were also ornamented with embroidery.
Hats of white satin, lined with blue or rose-coloured velvet, are worn; they are adorned with plumes boiteuses, rose and white, or blue and white. Bonnets of black velvet, lined with light green, and ornamented with satin bows, are much in request, as are those of violet-coloured gros de Naples, lined with bird of Paradise yellow, or English green, lined with Parma violet.

OUT-DOOR COSTUME. Many ladies of fashion, who wear only their hair, without any covering, tie their boa- tippets across the lower part of their faces, to keep the cold from their ears.
Several very elegant ladies are seen, in walking, with boots of purple Morocco, lined with marten.
Many ladies, on quitting a ball-room, put on cloaks lined with fur. These Witzchouras do not descend so low as other cloaks.
Square shawls of blue or red Cachemire, sprinkled with very small dots of gold, are often thrown over the shoulders of the most fashionable females of distinction.
The pelisses are made of materials of very rich texture, either figured or plain. Many of them are trimmed with broad bias folds of velvet. The cuffs and pelerine are always velvet, trimmed with fringe at the edges, or notched.

DRESSES. Sleeves made in the English style have, besides the turn which the hollowing out of the sleeve has round the corsage, to introduce the arm, a kind of crescent, of the same material as the dress, but puckered or plaited in a thousand little plaits. This crescent forms the epaulette of the uniform worn by the British troops. Sometimes it is of velvet on a satin dress, and of satin on velvet. It seems to be destined in assisting a dress-maker to fasten the sleeves very low, under the shoulder.
Some whimsical ladies have brought in again a circular wristband, en bouffont, which, last summer, surrounded the elbow of the sleeve a la Marie; now, being brought lower, it is called a ruffle.
Velvet dresses prevail much, particularly at the Opera, on a benefit night. Gowns for half-dress are of rose or cherry-coloured satin; they are made high, with a ruff round the throat.
Dresses of white or coloured crape have often the addition of a blond mantelet. Indian reps silk, or Ispahan velvet, of a celestial blue, have wide sleeves of blond, and a pelerine trimmed with blond. Ball-dresses are painted and enlivened in a novel and fanciful style, the ground is chiefly of stiffened white gauze. Above the bias, at the border of either coloured or white crape dresses, worn at balls, is a wreath of vine leaves or poplar, embroidered in green silk. Several wreaths, in smaller proportions, surround the corsage and the wrists.
There are sleeves called a la Muette (de Portici:) they are long, and have, at their terminations, a bouffont cuff, laid in small plaits, called a ruffle.
A dress of green velvet, with a small wreath of myrtle, worked in gold, above the broad hem, with a friar’s belt of gold round the waist, and wide sleeves of white blond, having a narrow ruffle round the wrist, and a double row of blond round the corsage, has met with much admiration; as has also a dress of rose-coloured satin, trimmed with a bias fold of the same colour, in velvet; this bias is cut in points, fastened to the skirt by knots of pearls. The corsage is of rose-coloured velvet, ornamented round the tucker part with pearls, and a small epaulette fringed with pearls, falls over the blond sleeves; the friar’s belt is also of pearls. Satin ornaments, notched, and set on strait, or the notches crossed over each other, are often placed over the broad hem at the border.
At the wrists of long sleeves are often seen two wrist-bands, which approach each other so close, that the fullness of the cuff forms a bouffont between, and which the French ladies call a ruffle ; it forms a pretty ornament over the hand.
In evening parties a boa-tippet is often thrown over the dress ; it is formed of Marabouts, rose-colour shaded with white, or blue and white.
Net-work ornaments of silk beading are now a favourite kind of trimming, falling over the heads of the broad hems; each row is terminated by a little tassel, which has a very pretty effect; a fringe to correspond trims the sash, and the five points which fall over the short sleeves. These trimmings are seen on gauze and crape dresses.
At evening parties are seen many gowns of velvet satin, and of other rich materials ; they are most admired when of cherry-colour, trimmed with blond. Every shade of violet is also much in request; a violet-coloured satin dress, ornamented with velvet leaves, appliquees, has been lately made for a lady of rank.
A ball dress has been remarked of rose-coloured crape, bordered with a broad bias fold of the same coloured satin, above which was a little wreath formed of the tips of Marabout feathers, mingled with puffs of ribbon, of rose satin. Dresses of white crape are ornamented with wreaths painted in different colours, and mixed with ornaments of gold or silver; these are much admired for evening dress. The sash is broad, and embroidered with gold or silver.
Ladies of fashion wear blond ruffles with their short sleeves, which remind us of the reign of Louis XV., for, at the inside of the arm, the blond is much narrower than at the elbows.
If the border of a ball dress is ample, in revenge, there is a vast quantity of blond used in trimming the top of the sleeves, and also in the falling tucker at the back, which borders the corsage.
Ladies, who do not dance, wear, at the border of their dresses, one flounce of blond, headed by embroidery of gold or silver.
Satin dresses of English green, are trimmed with a broad Chenille fringe. A dress is much admired of a very rich gauze, ornamented with six narrow satin rouleaux, just above the hem, round the border : the corsage is of satin. Figured merinos are still worn in deshabille, with a pelerine of the same, ornamented by a broad trimming ; the sleeves are a la Religeuse, with a very narrow wristband. Navarines , Bombazins, and Alpine Cachemires, all fabricated at La Savonnerie, are much in use for morning dresses.
Above the broad hem of a dress of cherry-coloured crape, is a trimming of white silk beading; a white silk friar’s belt is worn with this dress.
At a ball given at court, Madame, her Royal Highness the Duchess de Berri, wore a white dress, sprinkled over with gold spots, woven in the tissue; the corsage was ornamented with diamonds, marking out all the contour of the shape. The tunic was of red Cachemire.
Madame La Dauphine wore a dress of Saxon green velvet (this is a light green, but very lively and brilliant;) bows of white satin were placed in front of the skirt, forming an apron, and in every bow of satin glittered an ear of corn in diamonds. The corsage was in drapery, and the folds were drawn together by diamond brooches. At the border of the dress was a broad trimming of blond. The sleeves were short, and composed of frills of blond.

JEWELLERY. – Chatelaines are still in favour. The Duchesse de Berri, at the last ball given at court, had her hair adorned with jewels of different colours.
A young Marchioness, on her presentation at court, wore ear-pendants, necklace, and bracelets, composed of rubies and diamonds.

MISCELLANEOUS. Besides the large carpet in a bed-chamber, there is a hearth-rug, and on that a carreau (foot-stool), whereon to place the lady’s slippers to air before the fire.
A whimsical fashion, which cannot last, has taken place in the stockings of ladies in full dress; they are of flesh- coloured silk, on which are painted little birds, in blue, or butterflies in their varieus natural colours.
Bouquets, carried in the hand, are much in vogue. In full dress many ladies carry an aumoniere (a kind of net purse) , which species of reticule looks well with velvet or satin.
White gloves are worn in evening dress, richly embroidered, either in white silk, in various colours, or with gold.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onwards to April 1829

Back to February 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c . AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others ; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

EVENING DRESS.

A dress of canary-yellow, gros de Naples, with a broad, full border of gauze of the same colour, bouillone; this is headed by a narrow rouleau, from whence descends embossed foliage, in satin, of single detached leaves ; these are surmounted by branches of foliage of yellow satin, which with twisted stalks, ascend, in a spiral, but oblique direction across the skirt. The body is made quite plain and fitting tight to the shape; very low off the shoulders, and the bust surrounded by a double falling tucker of blond, of a rich and splendid pattern, two points of which ornament the short, full sleeves on the outside of the arm, each fastened down by two small rosettes of white satin. The waist is incircled by a cordelier’s belt, in yellow. The hair is parted on the forehead, and arranged on each side, in a profusion of ringlets, longer on one side than on the other; where the hair is parted on the forehead, a la Madonna, is a bandeau, formed of one row of pearls. The head-dress is completed by a turban of ponceau crepe, ornamented round the back part of the crown, with gold and sprigs of heath on the summit, in front.
N.B. A similar dress, in white satin, of which we have given a back view, is represented, with the turban of etherial-blue.

WALKING DRESS.

A pelisse of blue satin, or of gros de Naples; the skirt surrounded by a border of two rows of sable forming a rich border, each row surmounted by beautiful embroidery on white satin, the colours employed on which are chaste and delicate, and, by no means too vivid or rendering the dress unfit for the promenade, for which, by its make and warmth, it is well adapted; for it is wadded, and fastens up quite close to the throat; though the corsage is en gerbe it is admirably fitted to set off the beauty of the shape, by its adherence to the form ; it buttons down the front of the waist to the belt, which is narrow, and, formed of two sprig-rouleaux; these elastic belts are easy, and yet always tight enough. The sleeves are en gigot, and the cuffs and collar are of the same fur which constitutes the border. The bonnet is of rather a close, but quite novel form, and is of blue silk, with stripes two shades darker than the ground; it is trimmed with large bows of ribbon to correspond.

A DINNER DRESS.

A dress of crape over white satin, with two deep flounces of beautiful blond; over the upper one is a superb pattern of embroidery worked on the dress in white floize silk. The corsage is of white satin, with a Sevigne drapery across the bust, of crape, The centre of this is brought together by a row of elegant fancy trimming, which descends down the front of the waist to the sash, which consists simply of white ribbon. The sleeves are long, transparent, and a la Marie; confined only above the elbow, by a band of figured satin ribbon; cleft mancherons, edged with blond, fall over the shoulders, and a narrow tucker of blond surrounds the bust; jointed bracelets, of Turquoise-stone, and Cameos incircle the wrists; round which are besides, elegant cuffs of white satin, with point, of blond. The head-dress consists of a dress hat of white satin, lined with Minerva-blue velvet, crowned with a profusion of blue and white marabout plumage, strings of white ribbon, chequered with Minerva-blue float loose.

COSTUMES OF ALL NATIONS. NO. 36. – GRECIAN.

The dress here represented is that of an Archon’s daughter, and is a charming combination of fancy and splendour. Over a petticoat of Pomona green silk, bordered with three bands of scarlet, is a close bodied short dress of scarlet, richly embroidered with gold. The corsage is of green silk, with points falling over the breast, edged by gold lace, and a white silk apron, worked in that fine embroidery of variously coloured flowers, in which the modern as well as the ancient Greeks are known to excel, finishes the dress. The sleeves, which are of scarlet, superbly embroidered with gold, square, long, and fit close to the arms; but the cuff at the wrist is extremely loose, and is ornamented on the outside of the hand, from the wrist, with the small gold coin of the country. The hair is parted on the forehead, and is formed on each side, below the ears, in a cluster of bushy curls, like that of the men; the long, hinder tresses, are brought forward in two plats on each side, and descend as low as the knees. A lofty cap, of a pyramidical form, of scarlet velvet, ornaments the head; over this is a band of blue and white, which gently presses down the crown or caul, across, with a rosette of white and scarlet on the right side; a band of blue and silver encircles the cap next the hair. The stockings are of blue silk, and the seam, which is in front of the leg, is of gold; the slippers are of the same colour, with gold rosettes.

EVENING DRESS.

A dress of white crepe Aerophone, over white satin, bordered simply with a broad hem; black velvet corsage, pointed a la Marie Stuart, with a Sevigne drapery across the bust, and points at each shoulder, which form mancherons over long white sleeves, a la Marie, of crepe Aerophone; the fullness of these sleeves is confined in the centre of the thicker part of the arm, by armlets of gold and emeralds, and at the wrists by bracelets to correspond. A friar’s belt of gold, with three superb thistle tassels, encircles the waist, the ends falling nearly as low as the feet. The coiffeure consists of a hat of black velvet, placed very much on one side, and under the brim, on the elevated part, is an ornament of gold chain cordon, and a pink feather, which waves in a spiral direction towards the crown, from whence, playing elegantly over the front, are four pink feathers. The ear-pendants are of wrought gold, very large and long, en Girandoles, and the necklace is composed of two rows of massive chains of gold. In the centre of the Sevigne drapery, across the bust, is a brooch of emeralds or turquoise-stone, set in gold, a l’Antique.

DINNER DRESS.

A dress of satin, the colour of the marsh-mallow blossom; a broad hem, Vandyked at the head, ornaments the border; between each point is a round leaf, edged with a narrow rouleau; this foliage is embossed, and has a very pleasing effect. The corsage is concealed by a loug, pelerine tippet, of the same material as the dress, edged round by a full ruche of white blond, and the two ends finished by a handsome rosette of marsh-mallow blossom satin; these ends are drawn through a belt of the same colour and material as the dress, buckled in front by a silver buckle; two niches of narrow blond surround the throat, divided by a ruff, disposed en serpentine; the sleeves are en jigot. A beret of black velvet forms the head dress, ornamented with bouquets of dark green heath, the blossoms just opening. Strings of gauze ribbon, beautifully painted, but not in vivid colours, float loose. Notwithstanding the beauty and value of the materials, it will naturally occur to our readers, from the make of this costume, that it is calculated chiefly for the friendly or family dinner party, or receiving company at home, and not for the dinner of ceremony.

FASHIONABLE HEAD DRESSES.

FIG. 1. A head dress in hair, en Corbeille, arranged in full curls on each side of the face, and parted from the plaits composing the Corbeille on the summit of the head, by two strings of pearls, one of the strings slightly crossing the upper part of the forehead. Above the ornament of hair on the summit is a full group of flowers, consisting of full blown Provence roses, and tuberoses, with green foliage.
FIG. 2. Back view of a dress hat of velvet, the colour, Parma violet, fastened up behind and in front with gold chain cordon, and crowned with superb white plumage.
FIG. 3. A side view of a head dress in hair, a la Corbeille, with a slighter portion of flowers, consisting of damask-roses, and trefoil, or shamrock.

A MORNING DRESS.

A dress of holly-leaf-green, or any other lively winter colour, of satin, with abroad hem round the border, headed by four narrow tucks falling over each other, from whence depend, and lie on the hem, in a waving direction, a row of embossed jagged leaves. A canezou spencer of velvet, the same colour as the dress, forms the corsage, and mancherons of the same, consisting of jagged foliage, ornament the top of the sleeves, which are a la Marie, and the fullness very slightly confined round the thicker part of the arm these sleeves are of the same material as the dress, and are fastened at the wrist by a very broad gold bracelet, clasped by a cameo. A velvet band encircles the waist, fastened in front with a square gold buckle. A full ruff of blond is worn round the throat. The hat is of black velvet, with several short black feathers, and ornamented under the brim, on each side, by pink satin ribbons, cut to represent feathers. Strings of pink ribbon, edged with black hair-stripes, float loose. Half-boots of tea- green prunella, and woodstock gloves, complete the dress.

A MORNING DRESS.

A dress of white Cachemire, bordered by a very broad hem, over which is a Greek pattern embroidered in colours. The sleeves en Chemisettes, full, and confined round the wrist by a broad bracelet in mosaic work. Over this dress is worn a long cloak of Indian manufacture, of the Cachemire kind, with a broad and most splendid border, in various colours, of an Oriental pattern. The ground of this superb cloak is of cerulean-blue, or other striking colour, and is lined throughout with white satin. The collar, which ties round the throat, is composed of marten-skin, and the cape is in the form of the Russian mantelet, depending rather lower than the elbows. The collar ties at the throat with a rich cordon, the same shade as the cloak : the ends fall as low as the summit of the broad hem at the border of the dress, with very superb tassels. The bonnet is of satin, the same colour as the cloak, elegantly ornamented with bows of ribbon of the same tint, mixed with Parma-violet: a large yellow Gueldre-rose is placed in front of the bonnet.

AN EVENING DRESS.

A dress of celestial-blue, watered gros de Naples; the corsage en Circassienne, with cleft mancherons over long white crape sleeves, en jigot. A beret of celestial-blue spotted gauze, with two white esprits, forms the head-dress. These esprits are placed under the brim; the beret is also ornamented with bows of blue and silver lama ribbons. The ear-pendants are of wrought gold. A full bouquet is carried in the hands.

HALF-LENGTH FIGURES.

FIG. 1. Back view of a Carriage Dress. A dress of Parma- violet-coloured satin, with a velvet canezou spencer, ornamented in the same manner as that on the full length figure in this plate. The hat of black velvet, and its plumage, &c, are also similar to that figure.
FIG. 2. A back-view of a half-length, in a similar dress – The gown of the back figure is in canary-yellow gros de Naples, with a beret of ponceau-gauze, with black satin stripes, ornamented with white esprits, and the crown en treillage.

WALKING DRESS.

A pelisse of black velvet, bordered a la Witzchoura, with Chinchilla, finished at the back and bust with fichu-robings, and surmounted at the throat by a round tippet of Chinchilla, placed under a French ruff of clear, stiffened, book muslin, edged with Vandyck lace. Black velvet bonnet, with elegant plumage and walking demi-brodequins, of black kid, lined with fur. Some ladies prefer this costume of violet-coloured velvet, trimmed with marten-skin, and a round, long tippet of the same fur.

EVENING DRESS.

A dress of pink crape, trimmed at the border with puffings of pink satin ribbon, edged with narrow black stripes, and set on in bias; the body made tight to the shape with a sash; the ends tying behind, very short, with a small bow. The sleeves short, and very full, and trimmed in stripes of bias puffings, to answer the ornaments on the border of the dress. Round the bust is a double falling tucker of blond. The hair is arranged in very full clusters of curls on each side of the face; entirely parted on the forehead, and on the right side, the curls are crossed over by a half wreath of small, full-blown roses, both red and white, and a slight portion of green foliage. The Apollo knot, consisting of two puffs of hair, crossed obliquely by a large platted braid, is much elevated, and crowned by light curls, and red and white flowers, of the evening primrose kind. The ear-pendants are of wrought gold ; the shoes of white satin, tied en sandales.
A bouquet of red and white roses, is carried in the left
hand.
N. B. Back view of a sitting figure, in a similar dress, formed of white crape, with a white satin corsage; the ornaments and sash of etherial blue, as are the flowers on the hair.

FASHIONABLE HEAD DRESSES.

FIG. I. – Evening Party Head-Dress. – The hair in light curls on each side of the face, parted on the forehead by a Madona braid, and two bandeaux of pearls; in the centre of each a turquoise, set out in small pearls. The Apollo-knot, in the usual form, elevated, and crossed obliquely with one plat. On each side of the hair is a full-blown, single, red rose, and a blue China-Astre; the flowers surmounting the Apollo-knot are of the same kind. The ear-pendants are in the form of a cross, and are of pearls or diamonds.
FIG. 2. – Blond Cap for demi-parure. – A cap, in the toque form, composed of rich broad blond, separated by rouleaux of celestial-blue satin; broad strings of which ribbon float
FIG. 3. – Blond Cap. – Composed of quillings of blond, with a broad border, turned back from the front, and puffs of pink satin ribbon next the hair. The blond is ornamented with pink satin narrow rouleaux. This coiffeure is for home costume.
FIG. 4. – Hat for Promenade Costume. – A hat of black velvet, ornamented with three black ostrich feathers. Under the brim are bows of the palest shade of red lilac. The hat fastens under the chin by a mentonniere of blond.
FIG. 5. – Side View of an Evening Coiffeure. – The hair arranged a la Grecque, with the antique fillets, formed of small plaits of hair, parts of which are wound round the Apollo-knot; which is crowned by a large blue China-Astre. Three leaves of the pineapple foliage ornament the hair in front of the forehead ; and on the left side, near them, is a small blue China- Astre; the curls next the face are by no means exuberant, and are in the Egyptian-ringlet style. The ear-rings are of pearls.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS, FOR FEBRUARY, 1829.

The question of, “Why are our Magazins de Modes so filled with all that taste and luxury can invent, does no body buy ?” cannot now be asked, since a succession of the most attractive and elegant novelties appear, almost daily ; and before the close of this mouth, they will, we believe, scarcely be enabled to keep pace with the demands of the illustrious purchasers, whom we trust them to be, adding splendour to the first metropolis in the world, by their presence; for these many novel articles are now in preparation, though not yet completed.
There is, however, at present; nor can it be denied whatsoever may be set forth in the ephemeral journals of Fashion, a stagnation in the progressive march of the rainbow Diety, which, during the gelid month of January, in which every lively faculty of mind and spirit seem, in a manner frozen, is generally known to halt, and become stationery till about the middle, or latter end of the more cheering month of February ; we, therefore, have but few novelties to record, and those are chiefly confined to the fancy dresses of some late grand galas in the country; two of which we offer the following description to our readers, as we found them peculiarly striking and dignified.
Over a white satin dress, with a flounce at the border of the same, doubled in bias, and set on in large, full plaits, was worn a superb black velvet robe, a l’Artemise; this was splendidly trimmed all round, with a rich and costly fringe formed of very small jet beads; the white satin dress, from the robe being left open in front, formed a fine contrast to the monotony of the black; and the festoons of jet fringe, which seemed to fasten it in front, at separate distances, produced a charming effect over the white satin; the bust, of the robe was ornamented all round the tucker part with the same fringe. The short sleeves were of white satin; over these were long ones transparent, and of white Japanese gauze: at the back of the sleeves hung the ancient drapery of the robes of Crete, somewhat like those now worn in Poland, adding much grace to the robe; and these were of black velvet, fringed with jet: the points at the wrists of the white sleeves were fluted, and similar to the antique British points. This truly classical dress of that self-devoted pattern of conjugal affection, Queen Artemesia, was finished by the regal coronet of former ages, formed of white satin, and the points edged round with pearls, from whence depended behind, as low as the feet, the distinguishing veil of royalty, worn at that period.
Another dress for one of these brilliant occasions, is that of a youthful grand Sultaness ; it consists of a pair of white satin Turkish trowsers, over which is worn a dress of the finest oriental muslin, spotted with silver, and embroidered with the same round the border, in a very elegant pattern of Indian flowers. A short, white satin tunic is put on over this dress, fringed round and embroidered with embossed figures in silver, of the shape of pear-peals, formed into flowers. The back of the waist consists of bracers of white satin, laid in plaits, and fringed with silver cockscomb-edging. On the shoulders are ornaments of fine oriental pearls ; and in front of the bust is a Turkish cresent of the same valuable materials. A belt of white satin and silver incircles the waist. The head-dress with this interesting costume is a Turkish turban of French white satin and gauze, with a pearl cresent in front: a kind of diadem ornament, embellished with jewels of various kinds, on white satin, in eastern figures, is placed near the crown ; the Turkish folds next the hair are of the Japanese-gauze ; of which is the Sultana-viel, that depends behind; and which is ornamented to correspond with the dress.
The usual articles for female costume remain with but little alteration since our last accounts; whatever there is of novelty will be found in our engravings. There is, however, among the new head-dresses, a very magnificent turban for the evening party, of gaze brillantee! the tissu of which is in real gold. In the front is a fluted ornament of bright amber-couloured crepe Aerophane, en eventail. On the right side is a bow, with short ends fringed with gold, of the same material as the turban. The caps have experienced but little change since last month; except that we find those of black blond rather more in favour than those which are white; these are adorned with pink satin ribbon, with roses and their buds; and are in the Paon style. Berets still continue in favour.
Few bonnets are now seen in preference to black velvet; we have, however, given a fac-simile in our first plate of one of an entire new shape, of striped silk; no head-covering can be more appropriate to the promenade, as it ties closely down, yet is rendered infinitely becoming by being made short at the ears; it is on the walking figure, in a blue pelisse. In carriages a few velvet hats have been seen, and the black velvet ones are often ornamented with aigrettes, or esprit feathers.
In carriages, the pelisses are of velvet, of different colours, and are often trimmed with fur, with a long pelerine tippet of the same material. The out-door envelopes for walking, continue the same as last month, with scarce any alteration worth remarking.
The colours most in favour are marsh-mallow-blossom, azure-blue, pink, amber. The green of the young holly, scarlet, and lemon-colour.

NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.

HATS AND BONNETS. – There are hats of gros de Naples, embroidered with silk of two different colours; the wreath, which borders the upper part of the brim, is of the same shade as the lining, and that which is worked underneath, is the colour of the upper part of the brim.
Hats of blue velvet, ornamented feathers, half-blue, half sulphur-yellow, have appeared in the public walks, and have been much admired.

OUT-DOOR COSTUME. – With morning pelisses, are always worn gloves of some very light colour, embroidered in different shades: at the wrist they are surrounded by plush, the same colour as the embroidery.
Some boa tippets are fastened on one side of the sash by a gold serpent, which surrounds the boa like a ring, and is attached to the sash by means of a hook.
The cloaks which are of red, blue, or green, are made of a woollen stuff, the upper part of which resembles cut velvet, on cloth. This material is fabricated at la Savonerie, and is named manteaux duchesse, a cape cut square, falls lower than the elbow.
A pelisse of gros de Naples, the colour, sulphur-yellow, has been in high favour lately; it is ornamented all round by a border of small pinks and blue-bells, embroidered in silk.
In carriages, when paying morning visits, ladies wear a Turkish shawl, with gold flowers interwoven.

DRESSES. Embroidery on silk, still composes the ornaments on gowns for evening dress ; the most admired are of light materials, such as Palmyrene, poplin-gause, and lawn-gauze. Gros de Naples, merinos, and Cachemires, are also embroidered.
There is a charming invention, in which lightness, grace and splendour are united ; it is the trimming composed of ribbons on tulle or crape ; this species of garniture has a beautiful effect on ball-dresses, and very much resembles
silken* {*Some of our readers, perhaps, may recollect the ribbon-work embroidery of the year 1795. We shall be happy to see it revived: it only does for small flowers and foliage, but the variety of colours in the shaded narrow ribbon is admirable. It is expeditiously performed. – T.} embroidery: the mediocrity of its price, renders it facile to have it often renewed. Amongst the newest ball- dresses, one has been remarked of crepe-aerophane, the colour of the bird-of-paradise; it was surrounded by a broad hem; but three broad satin ribbons, from beneath the front of the sash, at about a hand’s breadth distance from each other, descend to the top of the hem, where they fasten three bouquets, composed of blue-bells, corn-poppies, and ears of wheat. The corsage is made in drapery, at the front and at the back; the short sleeves seem as if fastened on by a bouquet of blue bells and corn poppies attached to the shoulder. The same flowers compose a bouquet placed in the sash, on one side.
A very pretty deshabille is composed of a dress trimmed with two broad bias folds, above which are two cockleshells in satin, separated from the bias by a beaded tuck, or a narrow quilling of black blond. The corsage is made with a stomacher. The sleeves very full, with narrow wrist- bands. The sash very broad.
At balls, young persons belonging to the higher classes, are very simply attired. The dress is of crape with a broad hem as high as the knee ; the corsage a l’Edith, short sleeves, and a narrow lace appearing below them, belonging to the chemise.
Some elegant ladies of fashion have their ball-dresses of crape, the colour called eminence, (it is a violet, which by candle-light, appears that of the marshmallow blossom. These dresses are trimmed with a bias, surmounted by large plaits of satin: three rows of which plaiting descend from the sash, and unite themselves to this bias; where three bouquets of flowers, part imitating nature, the other part natural flowers, appear to fasten the rows of plaiting.
The border of marten-skin, which surrounds some black velvet dresses, is sometimes cut in festoons, at the upper part.
A dress of straw-coloured Organdy, on which is worked, in flat embroidery, a wreath of coquelicots and blue-bells, forms a very beautiful dress.
Among the newest articles for the ball-room, or evening party, are the following ; gros de Perse, Duphone, a transparent material, figured; Persian gauze, with Cachemire flowers ; and Smyrna gauze, both plain and figured.
The colorettes a la Medicis, had, as it is well known, a vertical direction, and did not conceal the neck; they were worn in the time of Henry IV. They are spoken of in a moral work, written in the age of Louis XIII., which calls the exposure of the bust the fashion of the “free and easy Marguerite.”* {*The repudiated first wife of Henry IV. daughter to Catherine Medicis. Margaret was alike renowned for her beauty as for the extreme laxity of her moral conduct.} “How can any one, this spirited writer adds, “be looked on, as a woman of honour, who continually obtrudes on one, the sight of her naked arms and bosom?
It was only towards the middle part of the reign of Louis XIV. this fashion changed: and during the regency, they made themselves amends for that restraint, nor were the ladies in the time of Louis XIV. at much expence for fichus.
The broad bias fold at the border of some ball dresses is afoot in breadth, and is surmounted by three tucks ; some- times these tucks are in satin of a different colour to the dress, and then the corsage and sleeves are in unison. The tucker part of the corsage is generally trimmed with two or three rows of quilled tulle, laid in very large plaits; some fanciful ladies have their ball dresses trimmed with watered ribbon, the same colour as the corsage, which is generally blue or pink; the ribbon is put on the skirt in net-work, and ascends as high as the knee; young women of fashion often wear a tulle dress over lemon-coloured satin. The tulle is embroidered with a row of pinks, and at the height of the knee is a row of bouquets.

HEAD-DRESSES. With a ball dress, described under our list of dresses, is worn a wreath of blue bells and corn poppies, across the forehead, and the same flowers lightly scattered round the head. The hair is gathered up to the summit in tresses, forming a kind of ball, from whence emerge masses of cork-screw ringlets.
Most of the dress hats are of plain velvet, either bird-of-paridise, eminence, or white. A broad gauze ribbon, with satin stripes, the same colour as the velvet, conceals the place where two coloured feathers are fastened in front. At the right side, this ribbon terminates in a large bow.
Besides butterflies, musquito, hawk-flies, and humming-birds, ladies often add strings of pearls to ornament their hair, and the pearls often entwine the small plats which compose the corbeille on the summit of the head. This fashion may be dated back to the reign of Henry IV.; several portraits of Gabrielle d’Estree’s represent her with a similar coiffeure.
The round crowns of tulle caps, called dress-caps, are puckered, and have on the summit a bow of gauze ribbon with satin stripes. Two folds trimmed with tulle surround the border of these caps. Under the upper fold which stand up, is a cordon formed of lilies of the valley, or of heath in blossom.
Arrows, corn in ear, and sprigs of pearls, are often seen, with a band of pearls round the waist ; and berets are ornamented also frequently with pearls. A plain velvet beret the colour, eminence, has been seen with two rows of pearls at the edge; a rosaee, in pearls, is worked on the flat crown; and three or four strings of pearls terminated by a tassel, fall over the shoulder.

JEWELLERY. In half dress, ladies wear, as an ornament, a small gold key, suspended to the girdle by a cordon formed of hair, with gold sliders. The large gold chains which are thrown over the neck, are sometimes fastened up by a rich Sevigne, or a brooch which fixes them at the centre of the bust.
Summer, itself, never produced so many butterflies as the female toilet presents this winter: butterflies in wrought gold, in differently coloured stones, in enamel, in diamond’s and even in black beads for mourning. These butterflies are placed on the hair, or the bust, and often on the shoulders for brooches.
One row of large pearls forms a favourite necklace worn with ball-dresses, and a ribbon of black velvet with a heart and cross a la Jeannette. Sometimes three or four rows of pearls incircle the throat; when there are five rows they are placed one stage below the other, the last row descending as low as the girdle.
Bandeaux of different coloured stones are placed very low across the forehead ; they are enriched with vaccilating gems like the new necklaces.

MISCELLANEOUS – L’Enodie is a perfume to be burnt in apartments, and which imparts the natural odour of several flowers. The pastiles are acidulated slightly, and this preparation has the double advantage of embalming and purifying the air.
L’Eusmophore is a charming article, of various forms, but all are made equally rich and elegant, and are worthy of decorating the most tasteful boudoir, or the most splendid drawing-room. They are used as supporters to thickly- grouped bouquets of flowers; and at the base, should be burnt the Enodie mentioned above.
There have appeared some new eye-glasses, which are set in mosaic. This setting represents a wreath of flowers.
Instead of making use of counters, at the game of ecarte, there are small tablets of ebony or ivory, on which are five little balls of polished steel, or gold, which mark, by means of a spring, whatever has been gained.
One of the prettiest card-racks lately invented, has, instead of the different days to receive the cards, so many butterflies, of various colours, which, placed on a ground of white or black, produce a charming effect.
At the desert following a grand dinner, four pyramids are indispensible: baskets, or plateaux, of different stages, with oranges, Madeira oranges, Maltese oranges, oranges from Nice, and those from Portugal. The baskets are of open work, and are platted, or of china to correspond with the service. The four sorts of oranges must be all separate from each other.
Boxes from Spa, a favourite present made at the commencement of the new year, are formed like a long glove, and are made to contain one, or several dozens of pairs, of gloves.
At the time when tea is taken, a servant opens the two folding doors, and pronounces, with a loud voice – “Tea is ready ! The company then pass into the eating- room, which is lighted by lamps placed against the wainscot, and by a lustre containing five lamps, depending from the ceiling: globes of glass soften the light of these lamps. On a mahogany table, without a cloth, are ranged plates and baskets filled with cakes and fruit. In the midst is a brown, varnished copper urn; cups and tea-pots of the different teas are set round the urn. It is only ladies who are seated round the table.
We quote, not as a fashion, but a caprice of a pretty woman, a pair of silk stockings of flesh colour, in which were woven coloured flowers.
While some of our ladies, devotees to fashion, place but- terflies of different coloured gems, or gold enamel, in their hair, others adorn their tresses with humming birds, and other of the small-winged race that have brilliant plumage; these birds, like the butterflies, are set on vibrating pins. Five or six form a head-dress.
The more rigorous the season, the more prodigal are the wealthy of their flowers, when they give a ball. Besides the boxes of shrubs, which ornament the stair-case and gallery, there are bouquets suspended to the pannels and to the lustres in the drawing-room. A rash hand having seized one of these bouquets, a few evenings ago, they were soon transferred to the side on which the ladies were seated.
There are now some fire-skreens of white Scotch fir, ornamented with drawings in acquatinta, so well executed, that they appear like the work of a first-rate artist.
The new smelling bottles are made like a powder flask ; they are of chased gold, or enamel; two small handles serve to uphold a chain united by a ring, and on this ring is a hook which fastens to the sash.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to March 1829

Back to January 1829

This publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3 Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c/. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they import an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

COSTUMES OF ALL NATIONS. NO. 35 – RUSSIAN.

WALKING DRESS.

A dress of white cambric, with a deep muslin flounce, richly embroidered, over which is worn a cloak of beautifully striped Cachemire; the stripes crosswise, of figured lilac, on a light willow-green ground; the cloak lined throughout with green levantine. A large cape, terminating in points, falls over the shoulders. The bonnet is of black velvet, lined with pink, ornamented by scollops of velvet bound with pink and black ribbon; large bows of the same ribbon ornament the crown.

MORNING DRESS.

A pelisse of pink gros de Naples, fastening down the front of the skirt with large rosettes of the same. The corsage is half a la Roxelane, and the sleeves en gigot, confined at the wrists by very broad gold bracelets, fastened by an antique head. A collerette-pelerine of fine lace is worn over this pelisse, with a sautoir of lemon coloured ribbon, with hair-stripes of black. The hat is of black velvet, with a Chinese-crown of lemon-coloured sarcenet, surmounted by white marabouts. Under the brim of the hat is a bow of lemon-coloured ribbon, on each side; from whence depend strings of the same coloured ribbon, richly spotted at the edges with black velvet.

FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.

DINNER DRESS.

A dress of black Smyrna, with a broad border of satin, beautifully embroidered in various colours, of natural flowers. The corsage a l’Enfant, with a pointed zone, embroidered to correspond with the border on the skirt. Short sleeves of black Smyrna, under those which are long, of crepe Aerophane, a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by bracelets of gold, fastened with white agate, or rubies. The hair arranged in Madonna braids, with clusters of short ringlets falling over half of them; the head-dress completed by a beret of black velvet, placed very much on one side; under the brim on the right, where the beret is elevated, is a feather of bright jonquil; where the beret is brought low over the left side of the throat, is another feather placed under the brim, of vermillion colour; this plays gracefully over the neck. The crown of this head-dress, which is very low, is ornamented with a full plumage of green, vermillion, and yellow feathers.

WALKING DRESS.

A pelisse of etherial blue satin, fastened down the front by languette straps, bound round by narrow rouleaux. The body made plain, and the sleeves en jigot, with a gauntlet cuff, fastened on the outside of the arm with straps, answering those which fasten the pelisse down the skirt. The pelisse has no collar, but is surmounted at the throat by a ruff of net, bouillone; under which is tied a long round tippet of the fur of the marten; these tippets are called by the French, Boas. The hat is of black velvet, trimmed with white blond, and white satin ribbon. A bandeau of this ribbon reaches from right to left, under the brim, at the extremity of which on the former side is a large rose of white satin ribbon. In front of the blond which ornaments the crown, is one rosette of white ribbon.

HALF-LENGTH FIGURES, HEAD-DRESSES, ETC.

WALKING DRESS.

A pelisse of sage-leaf green gros de Naples, lined with celestial-blue sarcenet. One very broad hem surrounds the border, headed by a double range of points, falling over each other. The body en gerbe, and confined round the waist by a belt of gros de Naples, with a full Rosette on the left side, in front, and two short ends. A French collar, with a narrow ruff of lace; and under the collar a painted sautoir-cravat of white silk. Bonnet of pomegranate red, lined with velvet, the colour of the Parma-violet: this bonnet is of a novel form, and so evasee, that it appears as if turned up all round in front. The bows which ornament it are of pomegranate velvet, and silk of Parma-violet. Strings of pomegranate-coloured ribbon float loose. The sleeves of the pelisse are moderately full, with cleft mancherons.

EVENING DRESS.

A dress of tulle; with a full bouillone ornament of the same, next to the feet, headed by bows of white satin of one loop and one end, on a narrow rouleau, which goes all round the skirt, as it surmounts the bouillone. At a distance from this, above a bias fold, is a row of leaves, in white satin. The corsage is a la Sevigne, with a splendid girandole brooch in the centre of the drapery across the bust, of jewellery and gold; the principal gems of which are turquoise stones. This drapery is fastened down on each shoulder with turquoise brooches, on a smaller scale. The sleeves are short and very full. The hair is arranged in full curls on each side of the face, and short at the ears. An open coronet-toque of blue crepe lisse, in puffs entwined with narrow black velvet, constitutes the head-dress: on the summit, on the right side, is an antique ornament of turquoises and wrought gold, with small gems of different colours, representing flowers grouped together, forming an ornament in front of the toque, on that part which crosses the forehead. Ear-pendants of turquoises and necklace of the same jewellery, set in large separate rosettes of one row.

N.B. A sitting figure presents a back view of this costume in rose-colour, with the addition of a boa tippet of marten-skin.

FASHIONABLE HEAD DRESSES, ETC.

FIG. 1. Head and Bust of an Evening Costume. – A dress of celestial-blue satin; the body quite plain, with sleeves a la Marie. A chemisette-tucker of gaze-lisse, edged with blond draws over the front of the bust, and a double falling tucker of broad blond falls over, and surrounds the other part of the corsage, which is made low. Dress cap of fine rich blond, of a pointed pattern; the border turned up on each temple, with flowers of various kinds lying on the hair. The flowers, which are dispersed with much taste and elegance about the crown, are chiefly white; and the floating strings are of white satin. The ear-rings and necklace are of jasper.

FIG. 2. Side view of a head-dress in hair a la Greque; full curls next the face, and above a rolled braid of hair entwined with pearls. The fusee or antique portion of hair at the back of the head, consists of several curls; but which have not the ancient purple fillets: plats of hair supply that deficiency: and on the summit of the fusee is a large, full blown Provence rose with buds, and a small portion of green foliage.

FIG. 3. Front view of a head-dress similar to figure 2, except that it is more divided on the forehead, and is without the rolled braid: the hinder tresses are also brought forwarder on the summit of the head.

EVENING FULL DRESS FOR A LADY OF QUALITY.

A white satin dress bordered with unspotted ermine; the corsage made low, with a narrow cape en paladin, surrounded by small pearls. The body fits exactly to the cape, and is encircled round the waist by a girdle, formed of rows of pearls, with long ends a la Cordonniere, terminated by tassels, and depending as low as the border. The sleeves are a la Madis, with the fullness confined above the elbow by bands of narrow satin ribbon; the other part of the sleeve fits tight to the arm, till it reaches the wrist, where is a deep cuff of fluted satin, the points standing upwards from the wrist, and edged with blond: next the hand are narrow bracelets of pearls. The hair is arranged in full curls on each side of the face, and is crowned by a coronet of pearls, with a long veil of blond depending from the back of the head, and descending nearly as low as the heels. The ear-pendants are of valuable pear-pearls, en girandoles, and a negligee necklace is worn round the neck, to which is appended a convent cross, all of pearls. A Maltese order, or cross, of brilliants, is sustained by a ribbon of bright etherial blue, which is thrown across the bust. This costume is one of the most chaste, and elegant kind, which has been seen for a long time for full dress.

DINNER DRESS

A dress of celestial-blue satin with double puffings of the same material, next the shoe, divided from each other, and formed by being fastened down with rings of satin. A flounce of broad white blond, set on rather scanty to shew the beauty of the pattern, surmounts these ornaments. The body is made with fichu robings, and an ornament en guimpe, in front of the bust, very wide, and trimmed round the edge with white blond: the bust is surrounded by a falling tucker of blond; and under the dress is a fichu of tulle, surmounted by a broad ruff of blond, divided in the centre, by a white satin rouleau. The sleeves are a la Marie, and are divided only in the centre of the thickest part of the arm. The head dress consists of a white satin hat with the brim turned up in front, and under the brim, on the right side, are two small drooping white feathers. The crown is adorned with a superb white plumage, which plays in the most elegant manner, over the crown and brim.

FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.

FIG.1, and 2. – Back and front view of a head-dress in hair; with a bandeau of wrought gold across the forehead. Bird of Paradise plume inclining to the right side. Sometimes a cameo is added in the centre of the bandeau.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR JANUARY, 1829.

Though, as our nobility and many other of the higher order of gentry, have protracted their stay so long in the country, that we cannot look for their enlivening presence in our metropolis, till after the Christmas recess, yet a kind of interesting bustle has taken place in many of the best quarters of this capital: numerous well appointed carriages are seen at the west end of the town; and the pedestrian begins to feel himself hurried in crossing the spacious street, called Waterloo Place. Before the door of MRS. BELL’S unrivalled Magasin de Modes, we observed en passant, a few days ago, three or four very elegant carriages; from the owners of these, we have since learned, that she has completed much toilet paraphernalia, to order; a few specimens of which we, from having been indulged in the inspection of, now lay before our readers.

The envelopes, of every kind, for out-door costume will continue much the same; but there is nothing deemed so elegant in this department, as a pelisse of black gros de Naples, finished round the border by a broad hem, in deep gothic points. The front, which closes imperceptibly, is ornamented with lozenge diamonds, between which are foliage trimmings, consisting of two square leaves. The sleeves are en gigot, and the body laid in small plaits, but tight to the shape, with a falling collar of black satin.

A very splendid dress of amber satin, has been made for an evening party: it is ornamented, next the shoe, with a bias rouleau of gauze, of the same colour as the dress. Commencing from nearly as high as the knee, is a broad trimming of black velvet, terminating in points; and from between each point depends a scroll ornament, which, together, form a kind of flounce; these are of amber gauze edged by rouleaux of black velvet and amber satin. The trimming of black velvet, ending in points, is surmounted by a ruche of black tulle. The body is made with a fichu ornament, finished in front, en guimpe, and is of amber gauze, edged with satin rouleaux and black blond. The sleeves are short, with long ones over them of crape Aerophane, and amber satin cuffs.

A dress of blue gros de Naples, for the evening, is in a more simple style; it is bordered by one deep flounce of gauze, the same colour as the dress, edged by blue satin rouleaux, and the flounce headed by bows and ends of blue gauze, edged with satin. Long, white transparent sleeves, a la Mameluke, finished by a narrow blue satin cuff, with a blue strap placed horizontally, and terminating by a button; the body a la Greque, and Persian drapery of blue crepe-Aerophane, edged with blue satin rouleaux, complete this dress.

A morning dress of cinnamon-brown silk is much admired; it is finished at the border by a broad hem, headed by rosettes, placed close together; the body is half a la Roxelane; with a zone pointed above and below, and incircling that part of the waist, which is plain, and fitting close to the shape. The sleeves are en gigot.

A new kind of dress, named a l’Elizabeth, is in favour for evening parties; it is of black satin, and is trimmed at the border precisely in the same way as the amber dress, above described, all in black. The body is made en Polonaise, with fichu robings at the back and front, finished by points of black velvet. The sleeves are a la Marie, and are of white crepe-lisse.

An elegant ball dress for Christmas Festivals, is of vermillion-coloured crepe-Aerophane, with a broad bouillone ornament round the border, of the same colour in tulle; this is crossed in a bias direction, by double rouleax of vermillion and yellow satin; the bouillion is headed by full ornaments, placed en fers de Cheval, of crepe-Aerophane, bound round with satin, and in the interstices is a Geulder-Rose, of fancy colours, half vermillion, half yellow, with green foliage. The body is a l’Enfant, with Circassian drapery in front, confined by a belt, in Mosaic, on which are Chinese figures, beautifully executed. The short sleeves of vermillion-coloured satin, are covered by those which are long, of crepe-Aerophane, a la Mameluke: these are the colour of the dress and are finished at the wrist by a narrow cuff and strap in satin.

A novel kind of carriage bonnet, as to the material, is of black satin figured, in a small pattern of beautifully varied colours. It is trimmed with canary-yellow satin ribbon, with edges of black, in a design a la Grecque. A broad ornament of black blond hangs in drapery over the bows, on the crown, and terminates behind on the left side. A bonnet of plain black satin, trimmed in this way, is much admired for its peculiar elegance. Another carriage bonnet is of plush, in Egyptian plaid; it is trimmed with broad velvet ribbon, puce-colour, edged with amber, spotted with puce, with strings of the same, in a loop, and ornamented round the crown with tips of white Marabout feathers.

Caps a la Paon, and a la Psyche, constitute the most favourite head-dresses; the former has the Paon ornament in front, of splendid blond and very narrow pink satin rouleaux, under which is the stiffening, which keeps the Aureole, so formed, in shape; this cap is tastefully, but slightly ornamented with white gauze, striped ribbon, and in front next the hair, with full blown roses: the caul is of tulle, finished by pink and white satin ribbon, a la Grecque. A Psyche cap of tulle and very broad blond, of a most superb pattern, is intitled to a high degree of admiration; it is ornamented across the front with a half wreath of Damask-roses, and those of Jericho, in full bloom; and the same flowers cross the crown, behind; the strings are of white gauze ribbon, finished at the edges by a border, in a Greek pattern. Another cap of this kind, but rather smaller dimensions, has strings of two different colours, which float loose; and the half wreaths of flowers are composed of half opening red and white roses: the blond is of a pointed pattern, and one string is white, the other pink. A white coronet toque made entirely of feathers, is an elegant coiffure, for full dress; the plumage most admired is white, of the Ostrich kind, tipped with amber; or the feather half amber, half white, called by the French plumes boiteuses. The Vienna toques, are still in favour; but they are not improved by the lengthening of the puffs, which has taken place: these puffs are formed of white satin, and tulle of a bright Geranium colour.

Net ruffs, a la Bouffon, are much in request in half dress; they have the becoming lightness of blond, and more durability.

The new sautoir cravats, are extremely elegant, more so than those which were painted in various colours, notwithstanding the beauty of these last mentioned. Those which are worn over dress pelisses, or at the Opera, are of white satin, brocaded all over, in a kind of chain of butterflies, if we may be allowed the term; their colours are varied, but very light, chaste and delicate. These cravats are bound with an entwined rouleau of jonquil and vermillion coloured satin.

The most fashionable colours are amber, etherial-blue, jonquil, vermillion, and pink.

NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to February 1829

Back to …

EVENING DRESS

A dress of rose-coloured gros de Naples, trimmed at the border with full and long puffings, in two distinct rows; the puffs are fluted, which imparts a richness to this novel kind of ornament. The body fits close to the shape, and is ornamented lengthwise, down the bust, with rouleaux of satin, dividing en gerbe, and brought together in a point under the belt. The sleeves fit nearly close to the arm, and are surmounted by very full but plain mancherons; at the wrists are worn broad gold bracelets, fastened with a cameo. A very narrow tucker of Vandyke blond surrounds the bust. The head-dress consists of a full dress cap, in the form of a fichu, of tulle and blond, brought in a point on the forehead, and the hair, which is arranged in very full curls, is ornamented on the right side, with one large, full-blown Provence rose, with its foliage; and, in front of the cap, is another rose, placed rather backward, yet entirely seen in front.

BALL DRESS

Over a white satin slip, a beautiful dress of gauze, of a shot lavender colour; the colour formed of grey lilac and pink intermingled, which combination imparts the most delightful gleam, that is particularly attractive by candle-light. The border of the gauze dress is ornamented on the hem, with a rich rouleau of amethyst-coloured satin, indented in diamonds; an ornament perfectly novel, and well deserving the attention of Ladies of taste and elegance. Over this are three rouleaux of satin of the same brilliant purple, set on in festoons: the points confined by full bouquets of yellow china-astres, without foliage. The corsage is plain, but is finished round the bust and at the back, with the same gauze as the dress bouillone and the fulness confined by rouleaux of amethyst-coloured satin. The sleeves are short, full, and bouillones; the puckerings confined in bias, by rouleaux of amethyst satin. A sash of the same chaste and lovely colour encircles the waist, with a handsome rosette behind the short ends. The hair is arranged very high, on the summit of the head, and the loftier part brought rather forwarder than usual. The full curls on each side of the face are brought nearly as low as the tip of the ear; the rest of the tresses are disposed in braids and bands, intermixed with gold chain-work, finely wrought, and yellow china-astres.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR FEBRUARY.

The lengthened light of day is now become visible, and the fashionable morning airings in Hyde Park, have commenced: from three to half past four, when the weather is propitious, we behold the gay and elegant throngs pass, in brilliant succession, exhibiting all that attraction which is inherent in their fair forms, by the aids of invention and …

There has been but little alteration in the … of bonnets, or in the style of their ornament, except that those made exclusively for the … especially for the morning visits of ceremony are of smaller dimensions than those which are … appropriated to carriage airings or the promenade. One of these tasteful dress bonnets, which is peculiarly deserving of admiration was of … coloured velvet, crowned with blush roses, and … plumes of the tropic bird, which feathers seemed to issue from the roses, and played gracefully over the front, and a part of the brim. We have seen a black velvet bonnet, worn by a lady of fashion, in the ancient cottage form, and so becoming, that we are pleased to see …

The out-door coverings for the head, are not much thought of during the time that … glories are chiefly exhibited by candle-light: … carriages are still closed, and the hours devoted to shopping and snatching a few fleeting … of day, in leading the younger branches of … through what morning lounges are at present open, give but little scope for the display of that … which constitutes the most modish for the … department. The head dresses, however, … time of the day, and every style of dress … beautiful; for the morning deshabille, the cornette is of a richly figured blond, finished at … in points a la Vandyck, next to the face, and … about the head piece, with numerous little … figured ribbonl the ground yellow, spotted at the edge with scarlet: the dejeune cornette, … Mechlin, and often of Urling’s lace, and is … with shaded striped ribbon; the colours, … lemon colour, jonquil and orange. The cornette for receiving dinner parties is often of blond, of a Vandyck pattern, ornamented with detached bouquets of various kinds of flower … theatre cornette has the appearance of a turban, were it not for its very long lappets, which are generally fastened under the chin: they are of pink gauze, in bias folds, and is charmingly … with flowers; in front is a delicate … the Catalonian jessamine; and on the … on each side are lillies of the valley or … wall flowers: on the hair, on each side, rests a flower, one a simple Indian rose … foliage, on the other a bunch of pink … the hair well arranged, and much taste in the … it on, is required with this head dress, … it appropriate for the evening. A coro… for full dress parties, is a very elegant coiffure, formed of white satin and rows of pearls; the … or circlet part is mural, and the indentings, which are bent downwards, are edged round with pearls and from each dependant square, hangs a small pear pearl, which has a most unique and splendid effect: small white feathers float over the front of this superb head dress. A black velvet dress hat, is also admired for evening parties, ornamented with gold cordon, and acorn tassels; this is crowned with a magnificent plume of white ostrich feathers. A Russian cap of black velvet also, enriched with pearls, or with gold cordon, with a full plume of pink feathers is much in favour.

Among the coloured chintzes now so prevalent for morning costume, we cannot forbear citing one, which we found peculiarly striking; the pattern being the most beautiful we have ever yet seen; and so disposed, as to have that effect on the texture, that it is almost impossible, except by the touch, to distinguish it from a French silk: the ground is a pale yellow, and the figures consist of narrow stripes in waves of a straw’s breadth, and about an inch and a half distant from each other; these are of massacca brown; between these stripes are shaded spots, about the size of a shilling, very close to each other, of purple and scarlet, lightly sprinkled over with shagreen spots, so small, that they are scarce visible, but on a close inspection; but they add much to the softening of the shades; and, at a distance, the pattern has the appearance of a fancy plaid. This dress is made high, en demi blouse, and the sleeves fit close to the arm: the border of the skirt is trimmed with nine very narrow flounces, set close together, but distinct. A high dress of scarlet, real cachemire, is a favourite gown for home costume: it is trimmed with gros de Naples, and satin of the same colour: two pointed flounces, reversed, of gros de Naples, the points edged with silk cordon ornament the border. The corsage is bounillone, in front, and the puckerings confined by satin straps across: the mancherons quartered like a melon, in alternate divisions of cachemire and satin: round the throat is an ornament of double points, which forms a kind of collar, and corresponds with the trimmings at the border of the skirt, being of gros de Naples, and finished with silk cordon, in a similar manner. A Bavarian robe of puce-coloured gros de Naples, delicately sprigged, is also a half dress that has been much approved; the tablier part is improved by an elegant finish to the satin straps that confine its slight puckering; the straps being terminated by short fringe tassels: the corsage is made partially high, and is formed almost entirely of folds of satin, very little of the gros de Naples appearing between. The sleeves are of the same material as the robe, made full, but confined at equal distances, all the way from the wrist to the shoulder, with very narrow bands of satin. An evening dress of striped gauze, just completed for a lady of distinction, lately fell under our notice, which is a beautiful specimen of taste, and well adapted to the season, by the charming glow of its colours, and the elegant style of its make. The ground is of a bright geranium colour, with stripes of shaded satin, orange-tawney and jonquil. Over the hem is a broad, full rouleau of jonquil satin, above which are large puffs, in festoons, of buffont drapery, of ponceau and jonquil gauze; each puff, which is very long, being brought together, of the two different colours, and confined by rings of fluted jonquil satin; the corsage fastens behind, and is made a la Vierge, except that a drapery folds across the bust, and ornaments the sleeves, to correspond with that on the petticoat.

Pelisses of velvet and gros de Naples, the former trimmed with the most costly furs, in various ingenious patterns are still in high request; it is wonderful to see the figures in which it is disposed, but we sincerely wish the furriers had not destroyed the genuine beauty of their valuable furs by mingling them in the fanciful way they have done this season. To the dress-maker who forms foliage and flowers, from the glossy black lynx, the chaste and lovely brown of the unmixed sable, the silvery grey of the American squirrel, and the uncontaminated ermine, every praise is due for the novel idea. But, we trust the furriers will leave off the regular patch-work of white diamonds in the grey squirrel, or black waves on the little zibeline, making that truly valuable skin to have something the appearance of that of the Norway rat.

At a ball given at a gentleman’s country house a few miles from London, a very short time ago, were seen some very superb as well as tasteful dresses that wee equally admirable for their elegant simplicity; and before we dismiss the subject of fashionable intelligence, we shall mention two or three that most struck us, and which promise most likely to be exclusively adopted by the higher classes. Par excellence, we first mention a tunic robe of amaranthine velvet, trimmed with broad white blond, of a most superb pattern: the petticoat which the robe partially discovered in front was a white satin, richly trimmed with flounces of blond. The hair, elegantly arranged, was ornamented with a diadem of brilliants; behind which was the favourite little neglige fichu, now so much the rage, scattered over, at the back part with roses of paradise. The body of the dress, according to the present mode, was the same as the skirt, but being diversified by a white satin stomacher and a falling tucker of blond, it had not the least heaviness in appearance; and the tunic robes, which are now very fashionable, are well adapted to velvet, which, especially at balls, looks better in such fancy dresses, than in those that are round. The other velvet dress was also a tunic robe with a white satin petticoat; the velvet dress was black, splendidly trimmed with gold cordon in Vandyck points with tassels and fringe; and the sleeves, which were long, were finished at the wrists with Vandyck points of exquisitely fine white lace, in the old English style; an ornament of which fell over the bust, which was beautifully relieved by the above-mentioned lace, and by a white satin stomacher. Amongst the hair were entwined pearls and white roses, in the most elegant and tasteful manner, though, seemingly,

“Wild, without rule or art.”

Though we do not admire black for the ball room, yet this last-mentioned dress, with one of fine black tulle attracted universal admiration, especially as we were given to understand that the two ladies were in the last stage of mourning. The black tulle dress was an Arcadian robe over satin, and was richly trimmed in bias folds of satin, as high as the knee, which were disposed in tasteful wavings, and scattered over with roses; this caused the most charming effect, when the robe was partially looped up, by the roses appearing as if they ornamented the petticoat of satin worn underneath. Pearl combs and roses adorned the hair. The young persons had, many of them, clear muslin dresses of fine India Bocca, over white satin or gros de Naples; indeed the very, young were all in white: gauze or of figured tulle: where the robe was of this form, a few simple flowers, to keep up the classical costume of Arcadia, were scattered among the tresses, but many young ladies had no other ornaments on their heads, but their own fine hair, beautifully arranged, and gave proof of the attractions belonging to youth’s early bloom;-

“Unadorn’d, adorn’d the most.”

We were just about closing our observations, when we had the advantage of inspecting a beautiful carriage pelisse, just completed for a lady who ranks high in fashionable life. The pelisse is of blush-red gros de Naples lined with a rich white sarcenet, and trimmed at the hem with a double rouleau; down the sides of the skirt, in front, and representing plumage, beautifully embossed, and formed of such narrow rouleaux, that it appears light, as well as costly. The collar is half falling, scalloped at the edge, and elegantly ornamented with chain-work of narrow rouleaux. The sleeves are peculiarly novel and elegant; they are only of a moderate width, yet without mancherons, and are finished down the outside of the arm, from the shoulders to the wrist, with united diamonds, ingeniously formed of chains of narrow rouleaux; and the seams of the body are ornamented in a correspondent manner.

The favourite colours are jonquil, pink, scarlet, orange-tawney, amaranth, and massacca brown.

PARISIAN FASHIONS FROM A VARIETY OF ORIGINAL AND AUTHENTIC SOURCES.

At the concert given in the rue de Clery, for the benefit of an Italian artist’s widow, there was, among several other very remarkable head-dresses, a velvet toque, which was ornamented with three rosettes of velvet, and twelve marabouts, four between each rosette. Several toques of black crape were sprinkled with stars, others were covered with a net-work in bugles, and most of them ornamented with three flat feathers. On small dress caps, made very flat on the head, were seen the flowers called snow-balls, on others marabouts, placed arch-wise, the ends being bent together, so as to form a kind of bower. Young persons wore only their own hair, or a hat of white pluche de soie, ornamented with satin rosettes. Moabitish toques of rose coloured satin, fasten under the chin. Some velvet dress hats are ornamented with gold.

Turbans and toques are confined to every day wear, or to the public spectacles – for a ball or concert, ladies of fashion have their turbans, their flowers or their feathers … by the hands of the hair-dresser. At balls, and at social parties, wreaths of gold or silver, are often mingled in the hair, and entwined among gauze or velvet. … also, made of different coloured gems, are a favourite … dress for young ladies.

Deshabille hats are of dark colours, and are trimmed at the edge of the brim with a broad blond: the crowns are … trimmed with satin rosettes, and often with those … pluche de soie. There are many white hats now to … they are fastened with two strings of crape, with … at each ear: underneath the hat is a half wreath … flowers.

Several dress gowns are of white barege, grey, … they are trimmed with folds of satin, and three … chenille.

Some maltese collars are of organdy, or of clear muslin, made very stff, they are embroidered with black, in … stitch.

For ball dresses, young persons wear blouse-robes of Organdy, embroidered with black crewel: these embroidered … fill up the spaces between broad bias folds.

On those days, when the weather has been less … it has been for some time, some fashionable ladies have been remarked walking in the Thuilleries. They were in pelisses of velvet, either black, violet, or dark green, they were trimmed with chinchilla or black marten; with long … of the same fur, which covered the back, and with … broad over the shoulders: these pelerine tippets were … with gold claws, or with two hands united.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to …

Back to January 1825

EVENING DRESS

DRESS of blush coloured satin, finished next the hem with a fluted trimming of the same material; this ornament is of an entire new construction, and does infinite honour to the taste of the inventress; the flutings being thrown out in that elegant way, that gives a fulness to the border, while it has, at the same time, an indescribable grace and lightness; over this truly unique ornament is a broad festooned flounce of white blond, of a pattern the most exquisite; which flounce is surmounted by a row of blush colour satin foliage, each leaf edged with very narrow blond edging. The corsage is made quite plain, and fastened by a simple belt; under which is concealed a small watch, the pearl tassel belonging to the chain only appearing in sight. A falling ornament of blond surrounds the tucker part of the corsage, surmounted by a row of foliage, in miniature, like that over the flounce: the sleeves are short and full, and are trimmed with pink satin and blond, to correspond with the other embellishments of the dress. The hair is arranged in the last new style, in clusters of curls, a few of which, instead of being separated as formerly, on the forehead, descend in rather a point in that vacancy; but not so low as to obscure or disfigure the beauty of the eyebrow. A plumage of white feathers, edged and tipped with pink, are disposed in that ingenious and charming manner, that they form, in themselves, a kind of coronet toque, while a few on the right side play gracefully, in zephyr-like lightness. The engraving represents a slight innovation from full dress, sometimes resorted to, of tulle lappets being tied carelessly under the chin, terminated by pearl tassels.

DINNER PARTY DRESS

Dress of gros de Naples, or gauze, the colour of the pomegranate rind, trimmed at the border with a broad puckering of crape or gauze, scattered over with trefoil ornaments of satin, of a darker shade, and surmounted by three rouleaux of satin, caught up in a festoon in front, with full rosettes. The sleeves short and very full; the fulness confined by satin bands, downwards; double falling ornament of white blond, with divisions made by satin bands, that impart a graceful novelty to this kind of ornament. The hair arranged a la Suisse, with a superb diadem ornament in front, of large pearls. The Swiss bodkins represented by Glauvina pins, headed with rubies. Ruby necklace, set a l’antique, with pendant drops. The shoes of white satin, and white kid gloves.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR JANUARY

The sports of the field, during a season remarkably humid, have lost much of their wonted attraction, and numerous families of high … are seen in London, or are emerging from the … seats, to the more diversified haunts … nearer to the metropolis.

Now is the time that there is so little … called morning, that novelties in the articles of dresses for that time of day, are but little seen to; there is but one cornette that we find attractive, and which is well calculated for retirement without appearing in a … its shape is uncommonly beautiful and … and its materials, though light, both rich and beautiful; it is formed chiefly of blond of a … pattern: it is trimmed with bows, and … of striped ribbon of the most striking and novel colours; the pattern on these ribbons … new; the stripes on one side being terminated in Vandyck points, so charmingly shated that they appear to rise above the surface, and … ribbon a most resplendent article of dress.

But if fancy, taste, and invention … so sedulously employed in the morning dress cap, the evening head-dresses are beyond … The Frescati hat … parties, is superb, yet truly delicate; … of white satin, edged and lightly ornamented with pearls; over the crown and part of the brim … playing in gossamer and sylph-like lightness … of real marabout feathers: to a fine … looking female this hat is a real acquisition: it has this advantage, there are few countenances it would not become; except the complexion remarkably sallow, or the figure too short. England, however, is justly termed the land of … few of her daughters are found with these defects. The shape of the above-mentioned head-dress comes very much over the forehead; consequently when worn as a dress hat, it is placed very backwards and on one side; on the discovered side is a bouquet of marabouts, under the brim. A toque of black velvet is a handsome evening dress for matronly ladies; it is diversified with satin and gold cordon; it is crowned with … of pink and black geathers, intermingled … droop over the front; and one long black … en saule pelureur, depends from the right … the shoulder. The Ceres’ toque is a becoming head-dress for musical parties, and for …married ladies; it is formed of bias folds of three colours, jonquil, pomegranate … purple, and is crowned with a half … obliquely, of small scarlet feathers of the … bird, scattered over with sprigs of gold. Another toque, en squellette, for full dress evening, is made of white satin and pearls; as its name imports, it is calculated for displaying the hair, and it should be extremely well arranged with this head-dress, which is fastened on the right side with two Glauvina pins, placed across, like cupids arrows, their heads coral, set on with fillagree gold; the other ornaments are coquelicot ears of of corn, bearded with gold, and plumes of small marabouts. A cap for full dress, called the Hungarian, is extremely splendid; it is of white satin, by may be literally said to be powdered with pearls and white bugles, which, on the crown, are wrought in the most exquisite pattern of flowers: the shape of the cap is a mixture of the Hulan and the Henri-quatre, which latter it most resembles, except that, on one side it is finished by indentings; these turn slightly up, and are edged with pearls: while a row of small pear pearls ornament the edge of the cap next the hair: it is crowned with a lovely and most superb plume of white ostrich feathers. The head-dress for balls consists chiefly of the hair being splendidly arranged in bows and curls: as ornaments, a few white, short feathers of that gossamer kind, the real marabouts, are placed very backward, so as to discover all the front ringlets, and only to mingle partially among the bows of hair, which are light and transparent. A superb gold ornament divides the hair above the forehead.

We began with the most exalted and beautiful part of the human frame, and before we quit the charming structure, we will make mention of the bonnets.

Surely our fair countrywomen have been studying Ovid’s “Art of Beauty,” the roman poet advises the ladies not to incur the enormous expence of wearing scarlet and purple, as he exclaims:

And, indeed, the three colours now in request, have nothing to recommend them, when we regard them only according to their tints; but there is not a complexion, we will venture to say, nor any female but what is set off by them: these are the Egyptian brick colour, the orange tawny of the pomegranate rind, and the Massacca brown. A bonnet, which has been christened the Grenada bonnet, we have seen, that has been finished for a lady of rank and beauty; it was the colour of the pomegranate rind, of a very attractive shape, and made very wide in front; the material was plain gros de Naples: the crown was ornamented with fan ornaments of satin, the colour, Nile-water green, shot with pomegranate; between each of these ornaments were short feathers of the fox-brush kind, of the same colours, intermingled. The hats and bonnets are all of this large kind, spread out wide, and much bent over the forehead; we suppose the Grenada bonnet was only named after its colour, and the growth of the pomegranate in that part of Spain. Black velvet is the favourite, and general material for all hats; we are sorry to see them almost exclusively trimmed with heavy bows of the same; for the carriage they are sometimes enlivened by white feathers, but not often; coloured flowers and black plumage, the latter ornament is generally preferred, constituting the chief embellishments. For walking it is not now reckoned in good taste to wear black feathers; no lady would grace the promenade with white plumage; and even coloured flowers, though they are worn in walking costume, are not reckoned so genteel as a hat wholly unornamented, except with the bows above-mentioned, or with coloured ribbons, which still prevail much on black bonnets, particularly those of the pomegranate blossom colour.

Swedish mantles are yet in high fav0ur for the carriage; and in addition to that most supreme envelope, which we described in our last number, we have seen one very beautiful of puce coloured levantine, lined with bright jonquil; levantine is a much better material for this article of dress than gros de Naples, as it hangs more gracefully over the form: this cloak had a very large pelerine mantelet cape, which fell as low as the elbow and was ornamented with fringe and rich tassels of mingled jonquil and puce-colour.

Walking pelisses are of gros de Naples, generally of dark coloures, lined with white, amber, pink, or other suitable tint; pelisses of velvet are very often seen with borders of valuable fur; we shall ever deprecate the disfigurement of these costly skins by fanciful patterns, {see previous month for the said “disfigurement” of valuable skins being called “elegant,” “unique,” and “truly novel.”} and have all the well judging on our side; we are admonished at those respectable furriers, who were not known to deal in any artificial furs, for giving … it: it is this, certainly, that causes the plain black lynx to be so much preferred, in this season, to valuable tiny zibeline’s skin, in zig-zags, and diamonds bigger than the little animal itself, and the beautiful American grey squirrel, with its snowy breast mingled with the back, in the form of leaves, &c. and the value of the fur of these exquisite creatures can never be enhanced by such representations; the beauty consists in their own intrinsic worth, and they are

“Most regular when irregular they seem.”

Imitations in false skins will now creep in, and render that common which might be exclusive.

There is but little new in the make of the gowns and dresses of black velvet, and of black lace, … white, rose colour, or Burgundy satin, are very favourite dresses for the evening. Levantine, gros de Naples, and tabinets, are prevailing materials in half-dress. The most favourite dress costume, particularly for young ladies, consists of soft … satin, trimmed with two rows of tulle, en ruche, fastened round the waist with a girdle of gold, beautifully wrought. The sleeves are short, and are formed of tulle and white satin.

Turquoise stones, pearls, and finely wrought … form the favourite articles of jewellery. A sprig of heart’s ease, the flower made of a different colour gems, and the leaves of emeralds, is a favourite fastening for a fichu or a tucker. A beautiful device has been made from this flower, in a seal, by our gallic neighbours. It is a play on the word, and would lose its point by translation; but the French language is now so well known by people of fashion, that they will easily comprehend it. This flower, in French, is called pensees, (thoughts) and this, we may find, in Shakespeare’s time was corrupted into pansy. However, the seal is engraved with the flower; the motto round it, “Je vous suis partout.” {I am with you everywhere}

The colours now most in request are Massacca, Egyptian brick, pomegranate, (both the tawny red of the rind, and the orange scarlet of the blossom) puce, pink, and amber.

PARISIAN FASHIONS

SEVERAL hats of gros de Naples, and even those of velvet, have the crowns puckered like those of a bonnet, but the brim is broader, more round, and plain. Two, and sometimes four, large rosettes of ribbon, clouded and striped, sever to draw the puckerings, and are tied on the left side. The … beautiful toques are of white crepe lisse; they are formed of little ribs, made of rows of pearls; they have a little plume of marabouts placed on one side, and on the left a large rosette of pearls. The crown of some turbans is formed of gold, in treillage work, and the border consists of a band of black velvet and gold cordon. At the Thuilleries ladies are now walking in velvet dresses; they are short in front, but have a demi-train. The sleeves that the dress-makers now call floating sleeves, are those that are not sloped off, or confined by bracelets; but … are only kept out by an under sleeve, made stiff. In the drawing-room, black satin hsoes are worn, very long quartered; for the promenade shoes are of plain black velvet, bordered with martin skin, or with chinchilla.

Evening dresses, both of plain and figured velvet, are much in request; the front of the bust is ornamented with bands of satin, trimmed with narrow blond; this style of trimming is sometimes carried down the front of the skirt, but the bands … gradually as they approach the border. On dresses of black gros de Naples, which are always in favour, the usual trimming is a border of five or six bias folds of alternate crape and satin; when there are six of these folds, they are placed two and two, about a hand’s breadth distance from each other, the upper one falling over the one beneath. A petticoat of gros de Naples, trimmed with a full chicoree, with a pelisse robe of the same material over it, is one of the prettiest half-dresses that can be imagined; the sides of the pelisse which fly open are trimmed, as well as round the border, with a chicoree, narrower than that on the petticoat, and, as the robe is made shorter than the petticoat, this forms two rows of trimming round the border of the toute ensemble. The most approved mantle is of black satin, the collar and pelerine of velvet, cut in five points, and very much hollowed out. Sometimes are seen dresses of black gros de Naples, trimmed with three flounces of blond, others with three flat rouleaux: the former is for evening dress, the latter for half dress, to which a pelerine is added, but the variety of trimmings now adopted renders it impossible to speak decidedly on which is most in favour. When buffont drapery of gauze is made use of, there is no rule in regard to the rouleaux, bias folds, straps, or clasps, by which they may be confined. Some hats are seen trimmed with ribbons, and tulle under the brim; one of these hats has appeared of a very new and singular form: the brim is hollowed out in front, and one of the sides bends down more than the other: the form is whimsical, yet the hat has a very graceful appearance; it is of black satin, ornamented with four long, flat black feathers.

At the edge of the brims of dress hats, whether of satin of figured velvet, is a binding of the same material, equally broad below as above; over this is a quilting of tulle or blond. The hat is surmounted by bows and feathers. Sometimes the brim of a hat is broad and flat on the left side, and indented, or else turned up with a brooch, on the right side; or sometimes with a rosette, from whence issues a plume of feathers. Ladies who wear white ostrich feathers, or grey marabouts, have them tied together in a kind of bouquet, so that they can place them on their heads in a minute if they are going to see a new piece performed, or to any evening party where a hat without feathers would not be proper. Some hats of white satin have the crowns in very full puckers; in bonnets this crown consists in a caul, with the puckering formed by runners, through which narrow ribbons are drawn.

On some toques is seen a rouleau of satin of a different colour to the toque; it is disposed in a serpentine manner, and entwined round with gold cordon. Morning bonnets are made of plain velvet, either black, blue, green, massacca brown, or violet, they are trimmed with broad jagged leaves of velvet. Five bows of satin, and a little bunch of primroses … velvet, on each temple, are the favourite ornaments on dress caps. At the saloon have been seen several dresses of black satin. A pelerine is an indispensable ornament, not only for pelisses, but gowns, … the latter is only for half-dress. The pelerines is made to take on and off at pleasure. Those pelerines that are cut all round, in long sharp points, are called pelerines a la neige. A young lady, at a salon, had on a crimson mantle of plush silk, ornamented with black satin, and bordered with black … trimming; the cape of this mantle was of … satin, bordered with feather trimming.

Spencers are of black velvet, with square backs, and are seamed with black satin; they are called Hussar spences, because the bust is ornamented in front with brandenburghs; and on each sleeve are five chevrons: the mancherons are ornamented with epaulettes in silk lacing; they are worn with a petticoat, either of levantine, satin, or cachemire. The ladies use claws of gold to fasten their pelisses and pelerines; with this difference, that the claws which fasten the pelerines are smaller than those on the pelisse.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to February 1825

Back to December 1824

EVENING DRESS

DRESS of soft satin or velvet of celestial blue. The border beautifully trimmed with a rich rouleau, entwined with silver cordon, in festoons, with blue rosettes, from whence depend silver tags. A straight rouleau the same as the festoon trimming surmounts the hem at the bottom of the skirt; corsage with the drapery, formed a la Greque, across the bust, and on each side: that across the bust fastened with a rosette in front with silver tags, as in the point formed by the termination of the side draperies, just above the belt, of the same material as the dress. The sleeves are short, and have a rosette on the outside of the arm next the shoulder. Swedish mantle of violet coloured satin, trimmed with white swan’s down, or ermine and lined throughout with white swan’s down, ermine, or levantine. The head dress a Veronese toque of gauze and silver lama, and an ornament, placed obliquely, in front, of finely wrought fillagree silver. The toque surmounted with a plume of white feathers, variegated. Opal necklace and bracelets, &c. White satin shoes.

WALKING DRESS.

A pelisse of gros de Naples, the beautiful colour of the beet root, elegantly ornamented with the valuable fur of the lynx, in the most unique and truly novel manner (being the sole invention of Mrs. Bell of St. James’s Street) the fur is not only displayed, like the rouleaux of gros de Naples that divide it, in serpentine wavings, but also formed into beautiful sprigs of the Asiatic tree, supported and surrounded by stalks formed of narrow rouleaux of the same material as the pelisse. A pelerine cape trimmed with lynx fur to correspond. The sleeves en gigot, in point of form, but of more moderate dimensions than on the first appearance of this fashion, and confined at the wrists with broad gold eastern bracelets. A belt of the same material as the pelisse, fastened in front with a gold buckle, wrought in the same pattern as the Indian bars of gold at the wrist. A bonnet of the same colour and material as the pelisse, with fichu lappets, carelessly tied. Large bows, intermingled with black, or very short black feathers playing among the bows, finish this tasteful bonnet. – This unrivalled pelisse is lined throughout with rich white taffety.

NEWEST FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER, 1824.

Though, for some years past, fashion has demanded, that those her votaries who have splendid hereditary mansions, and large establishments in the country, should remain at them till after Christmas, a custom that first took its rise from the noble motives of old English Beneficence; yet, at the latter part of November’s cloudy month, and at the commencement of December, the different modes in the metropolis begin to wear a decided appearance, and we are enabled, from the various articles composing the female toilet, to pronounce on what is likely this winter, to be most in favour, as well as what is now universally adopted by the higher classes.

The newest articles for bonnets are some that are fancifully variegated, and consist of coloured chenille stripes worked across a ground of different coloured satin: we mention these, merely on account of their novelty; the shape is not becoming, and we prophesy that their reign will be but short. The other hats and bonnets, this month, especially those for the carriage are extremely beautiful: some are of black, others of lilac velvet; the black are sometimes trimmed at the edge with ruche, fire coloured and black, intermingled; and with striped ribbon, of correspondent colours: the lilac is trimmed with very dark puce-coloured sarcenet, in bows and lappets depending. A purple velvet hat has also a decided air of style and fashion about it, both as to the form, and the tasteful manner in which it is trimmed: it is lined with amber-coloured satin; on the left side of the lining are Spanish slashes, filled in with purple velvet. A weeping willow feather, of purple and amber, intermingled, droops over the right side; on which side, under the lining, is a quilling of black blond. A handsome black bonnet, for the promenade, is ornamented with the scarlet flower, named Turk’s cap, formed of crape, and black seraskier aigrettes of feathers: a small blond cornette should be worn under this bonnet. A bonnet of black velvet for the carriage, is also ornamented with scarlet Turk’s caps, each surmounted by black feather esprits. A full plume of black ostrich feathers is placed in front, and the plumage falls over behind. A bonnet of pink gros de Naples, finished for a carriage bonnet for a young lady of fashion struck us as very appropriate and tasteful: it was trimmed at the edge with white blond, of a rich pattern, and ornamented among the bows with several small slate coloured feathers.

To the inspecting of the above elegant bonnets we are indebted to the kindness of Mrs. Bell in St. James’s Street who has, also, just completed for two ladies of very distinguished rank, two beautiful out door envelopes, the trimming of which, in its most unique and splendid disposal, is entirely of her invention. One is a capacious Swedish mantle, the other a pelisse of gros de Naples. The mantle is of a bright vermillion colour, and the material of the most costly Genoa velvet. It is trimmed in rich rouleaux, in wavings of gros de Naples, and all round with the valuable fur of the black lynx. The fringe fur not only sepentizes in waves, if we may use the term, but tasteful ingenuity has also formed flowers of this glossy and valuable skin, which are placed between each interstice, and have a most magnificent effect. The pelisse is the colour of the bright rose of Japan, and is lined throughout with white levantine; the fur trimming and rouleaux are disposed in the same style on the Swedish mantle; and the bust, macherons, collar and cuffs are ornamented in a similar manner, in miniature.

A pelisse of slate coloured gros de Naples is an elegant out-door dress, it is made plain, as best suited to the promenade; though some ladies have these neat, unobtruding pelisses simply ornamented with one row of rouleaux, disposed in chain work, down each side of the skirt in front; they fasten close with buttons; the sleeves en gigot, and a pelerine cape finishes the dress. This kind of pelisse, made of satin, and trimmed with light sable or swan’s down, is well adapted for the carriage, and looks charmingly, as there are few to whom this colour is not becoming; and that is the chief acquisition that fashions disciples should endeavour to obtain: it was this that has made the Japanese rose such a standing colour, for every complexion is set off by it.

The turbans that are now worn, may be pronounced a glorious novelty, as they form an Aureole round the head; the shape is generally becoming; we saw a beautiful one of lapis blue satin, with a point on the forehead; the turban part was laid in flutings, and in the middle of the crown was a plain, raised ornament, like the fruit of the marshmallow, and when this turban is of the colour of the marshmallow blossom, this ornament is green, as it si by nature; these last mentioned are of gauze. A half dress turban is of white satin, with a lapis bow of satin, and long lappets of the same. The caps and cornettes are continually improving. A new cap for the theatre is elegant but too simply so for our ideas of what the head dresses ought to be in the dress department of a national theatre like ours: it is pointed on the forehead, and composed chiefly of tulle; beautiful, but very delicate sprigs of flowers are scattered over the cap. Another for the same purpose, is formed of very rich blond and pink satin, and ornamented with larger flowers, among which the full blown rose, that beautiful candle-light flower, is most conspicuous. A diadem cornette is a pretty head dress for home; it is of plain tulle, with broad pink gauze lappets; the cawl is also of mink gauze, and turns up in the front, with a diadem ornament: a simple row of pale pink primroses, divides the blond in front from the …

The dejune blouse cornet is of fine lace, with a broad border; the other part is formed of a striped pink ribbon and fine net; the lappets very long and broad, of striped ribbon, … trimmed all round, with narrow lace. … beautiful head dress we have seen for public spectacles, or dress parties, is a black velvet … brims of which in front are double, and edged with pearls: on the right side, the brim is … and the hat is small, discovers the hair … fully curled; these indentings are, also, edged with pearls; a very superb plume, partly … over the left side, of white ostrich feathers, completes this charming head dress: for the young lady and even for the matron, nothing can be more appropriate that this coiffure.

One of the newest articles in the gown department is a home costume of gros de Naples; it … and beautifully shot;- fire colour and am … made high, and finished from the shoulder … each side of the bust and skirt, with sho… each of which are fastened at both ends, … Almeida button of richly wrought gold; but the buttons do not depend from tags, like those worn by the Porteguese, but are fastened close to the … sleeves are long, plain, and nearly fit the … mancherons formed of straps and ornamented with Almeida buttons. The border of the skirt is ornamented with with two rows of united chevrons, in bias … dress of blue crepe lisse, over white satin, is admired for evening parties: the sleeves are of white lace; the whole of the white sleeve … from the shoulder, and discovers the … sleeve underneath: the body is made in the Greek style; which varies but little from … Greek, except that in the former, folds … place of the antique robings. The border of … is trimmed with two rows of detached bunches of … leaves, with a small Indian rose fixed to the centre of each; the sash of blue watered … on the left side, with very long ends, terminated in a broad fringe. The ball dresses are, at present, very simple; puckerings of gauze, and trimmed with blond, with white satin rouleaux, form the ornaments, whither the dress is of tulle, rich … gauze, or soft white satin; this last article … in favour, but it is expected that coloured … and crapes will be much patronised by the … of Terpsichore. The bodies for ball dresses are … beautiful; some are of white satin, with tulle … the bust in Brandenburghs, each row of … round with pearls: corsages of coloured … also ornamented in the same manner; … are entirely of tulle, and are ornamented … bust with straps of white satin, with corresponding sleeves, short and full. The favourite colours are the rose of Japanese rose, vermillion, fire-colour, amber, and pink.

PARISIAN FASHIONS

THE mourning has, for some time, excluded a variety of colours; but the scene of fashion begins to brighten. At the concert given by Mr Dossion at the Opera House, at the theatre of Madame, on the day of All Saints, a Moabitish turban was remarked on, which is fastened under the chin, adorned with a bird of Paradise. On several black velvet toques were plumes of black ostrich feathers, curled, and small white feathers, placed a l’Inca, adorned the hats that were of black velvet. Some white hats had on them daisies, that were black, and highly varnished. Some fashionists placed on a black velvet hat, white lappets, and a large bow of white satin: this bow is composed of three puffs, and four … cut round. The new hats are large in the brim, bo… in front and at the sides, and the crowns are high. Some black velvet hats have a fichu of the same … en marmotte, plaited on the summit of the crown, … large plaits. The mantles reckoned the most handsome, are of black satin, with two pelerine capes of black velvet, which descend as low as the elbow, and are lined with hwite satin. The only fur yet seen was of black marten, in fichu-palatines.

Coloured dresses have began to be bespoke, … the fashion-mongers; they are bright, and clouded, or have broad, shaded stripes, and the white silks are figured with raised leaves. On the first representation of Leocadia, at the Feydeau, every … was taken. We there saw dresses of plain velvet made with a kind of stomacher, the corsage trimmed round the bsut with a double row of tulle. A velvet pelerine was thrown over the shoulders, bordered with blond, laid in very large plauts. At the border of these dresses were four rouleaux of velvet, and four flounces of blond. Some dresses of reps silk were trimmed on the mancherons, and at the border of the gown with rows of Maltese crosses, made of black satin; a jet button marks the centre of the cross. The head-dresses were toques of black velvet, and turbans of striped gauze and satin, laid in a thousand little plaits. On the former were long white plumes, five feathers in a plume, placed spiral, and forming an enormous spread-out: on the latter were two black aigrettes, and a black bird of Paradise, or a long plume of black feathers, grouped together. A hat of black velvet was remarked, with the brim turned up in front; on the left side was a bouquet of marabouts, fixed so low that they mingled with the curls of hair on the neck. Another black velvet hat was ornamented with a very full wreath of different coloured flowers, made in velvet. All the young persons wore their hair elegantly arranged, with a jet comb, ear-rings of blue spun-glass. The Apollo’s knot formed two enormous bows, and the curls of hair confined on the temples by the two little jet combs, were in the form of a horse shoe. Several ladies of fashion, on quitting the theatre, enveloped themselves in a mantle of black velvet, with a pelerine cape of Chinchilla.

The dress-makers are seriously employed in making a corsage, similar to those worn in the time of Francis I. The puckerings of this corsage are all brought up to the chest, by a very large brooch of jewels; the folds or puckerings enlarge, as they are brought on each side of the bust which form the wheat-sheaf, in a transverse sense to that when the body is said to be made en gerbe.

Blond flounces are the trimmings most in vogue for dress gowns. We have seen a dress of spotted velvet, Emma colour, the border of which was trimmed with a broad flounce of blond, set on in festoons; above the flounce were tufts of foliage formed of satin, to answer the colours of the dress, each leaf trimmed with narrow blond edging: the petticoat was terminated by a bouillon in pipes, placed between two rouleaux. The corsage was square, with a falling tucker of blond, over which was a satin foliage, of smaller dimensions than that on the border; the sleeves were ornamented in a correspondent manner.

The mourning damps, the efforts of our artists, fashion-mongers and dress-makers; there are, however, some charming silks to be found in our mercers’ shops, both figured and plain. Shaded Spanish silks, and fancy India silks; these colours are named, the tree of Judea, and Ipsaraearth; and there are merinos the colour of Helen’s tunic, and the sable of Nubia. Velvet hats are shaped a la Bolivar; the brim round and very large: at present there are but few dress hats, but toques and turbans are of the most charming diversity. Over silk dresses are worn pelerines of crape or gauze, trimmed with bias folds, raised; there are also seen long sleeves of gauze, the wristbands of which are concealed by ribbons the colour of the gown, and which tie on the inside of the …

Next in favour to black velvet hats, are those of pomgranite colour; the brim round and large, and very much bent down over the forehead; at the … of the crown, which is high, is a large bow of … bound with satin: these bows are formed of puffs in which are mixed ends of velvet, and … the crown is a bouillon of velvet. We hace seen a very lovely hat, composed of black velvet and coloured satin, and black blond; another … barbel blue velvet, and the bottom of the crown was covered with ribbons clouded with blue and two aigrettes of gold lama, turned back, were worn with much taste. The toques, of whatever material, are all black; they were the predominant head-dress at the first representation of Fiesque, at the … There were also demi-turbans of gauze part … and which were higher on one side than the other.

Dark shaded silks are nest in favour to black; there is nothing new in the corsages; they are still … and the only novelty is in the disposal of the … the ornaments on the mancherons are always made to correspond with those on the border of the coat, which are generally of full bouillons of … confined by bows or points of satin. With … for half dress, the long sleeves of gauze are made very wide, and if the dress is black, they are …

In parties that are given on account of … where young people are obliged to dance, the … dresses of tulle, cut in points round the … These dresses do not come down lower than the bouillon of satin which ornaments the bottom of the satin slip underneath. The sash or belt worn with dress gowns is round, and fastened by … formed of four or five little pointed ends.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to January 1825

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DINNER PARTY DRESS.

Dress of sea-green gros de Naples, made partially high, with light ornaments on the corsage, in stripes downwards, but so calculated as to not take off the close fitting to the contour of the waist, which is finished by a narrow tucker of blond. The border of the skirt is ornamented en Cherubins, with a novel kind of puckering next the wadded rouleau over the hem. The long sleeves rather close to the arm, with full mancherons, an the wrist confined by a finely-wrought gold bracelet, with turquoise-stone fastening, Canezou fichu, of Urling or french tulle, trimmed with very fine lace or blond, and finished at each end by a rosette of white watered ribbon. Ariadne-toque, of pink and white satin, with a delicate plume of white feathers, tipped and edged with pink. Ariadne streamer, fastened on one side as a lappet.

BLOUSE PELISSE DRESS.

Pelisse of pale cinnamon brown of gros de Naples, lined with pink, faced and trimmed round the border with ethereal blue and pink; sleeves en gigot, confined at the wrists with two bracelets. Falling rounded collar trimmed at the edge to correspond with the skirt, and fastened in front with a rosette of ribbon of the same colours. Colerette of fine India muslin, trimmed round with lace. Bonnet of white watered gros de Naples, bound and trimmed with blue and pink striped ribbon. Walking slippers or half-boots of kid, the same colour as the pelisse, and canary yellow kid gloves.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER.

“Fashion in every thing bears soverign sway.”

So says the bard, and his assertion is verified by the continued sojournment in the country of the higher orders, in spite of chilly rains, and the sun’s enlivening light, because fashion so ordains. The summer recesses are all life, gaiety, and bustle, while the west-end of the town presents a dreary vacancy, wanting the splendid carriages to give brilliancy to the spacious streets and squares of the metropolis, and the presence of those for whom the tasteful saloons pour forth at the midnight hour, the blaze of artificial day, equalled only,

“By gems and radiant eyes.”

The orders, however, given to the most skilful of our marchandes de modes, keep them in continual employ, and they are preparing, with incessant assiduity, those various auxiliaries to beauty that the toilet affors, especially when guided by the suggestions of elegance and taste.

The versatility and beauty of the head-dresses, in the cap and cornette style, we believe were never equalled in the appearance they bear this month. The cornette a la neige, is much more becoming, from its dimensions being less broad, than the cap a la neige, worn last month: this cornette is composed of blond, narrow rouleaux of pink satin, and detached bouquets of various flowers, placed in the interstices of points formed of blond, lightly quilled. The dejeune cornette is of fine mechlin lace, with two simple bows of striped, coloured ribbon, and the home, or half dress cornette is of blond of an entirely new pattern, the edge in Castillian points, and very open; it is very tastefully ornamented with small bows of rich brocade gauze pink ribbon; a friendly party dinner cornette of the same kind of blond, lightly scattered over with small bouquets of different flowers grouped together. The summer theatre turban cap is a very elegant head-dress; it is composed of plain white Japanese gauze, laid in bi-folds, ornamented with full blown roses and lillies of the valley. The half dress cornettes of tulle and blond are trimmed with blue or rose coloured satin; the blond border is caught up over each temple, with a variegated carnation: when the cornette is trimmed with blue, it is ornamented in front with a half wreath, of the flower called Solomon’s seal, made of feathers. A blouse head-dress is in favour for receiving morning visits, or when the lady is indisposed; it is of figured tulle with a very broad border of blond, and is finished with single knots of blue satin ribbon; two very long lappets of blue satin and blond hang depending over the shoulders: the face should be young and pretty that wears this head-dress. The Mary Stuart hat-cap is a charming evening head-dress; the front consists of a double row of fluted broad blond wired, by which means it bends over the forehead, and extends wide over each temple, in the true ancient scotch style; the crown is of blue gauze with plaid work in narrow rouleaux of blue satin; to divide the crown from the head-piece is a broad blond, set en fers de cheval, one standing up like a wing on the left side, and on the right, and in front is a full blown rose. On the left temple, under the border, but without catching it up, is a sprig of acorns and oakleaves.

Black is expected to be very much won at the decline of the year; at present that sombre tint is confined to richly figured gauze and lace; and then it appears not gloomy, because it is generally spread over a white satin slip, or one of peach, pink, jonquil, or bright ruby; black satins, however, elegantly embellished with broad white lace of a vandyck pattern, are among the promised dresses for the close of autumn. The embroidered muslin petticoats, worn with silk pelisses and spences, have much open work in the borders, and very deep scallops at the edges. Coloured dresses of gros de Naples, richly trimmed about the corsages and sleeves with blond, are much worn at dinner and evening parties; a broad border of double rouleaux of satin in separate rows, divided by chain beading, or rich silk cordon forms the favourite ornament on the skirt of this dress. High dresses of gros de Naples or Levantine, are now more worn than those of white muslin for home costume; they are of light, but unobtrusive colours, such as fawn, date leaf, or light slate. Ball dresses are of tulle generally placed over white satin: the border of puckered tulle; each pucker which is long and full is confined by white satin straps of fluted rouleaux, with small bouquets of flowers. The corsages most preferred are of satin of a light summer colour; they are rather more ornamented than they were last month, with drop fillagree buttons and silk cordon.

Black satin bonnets are already in preparation; they are of a beautiful shape and moderate size; they differ, however, from those worn last winter, and the strings are placed very backward, underneath the bonnet: one we have seen is lined with coquelicot, and is ornamented in wreaths, placed horizontally, of scarlet thistles made of feathers. As the winter comes on, these bonnets will, no doubt, be succeeded by those of velvet. White hats and bonnets are, however, at present, the rage: some transparent white hats are made of stiffened net, and rouleaux of satin, in alternate rows; the puffings of the white Japanese gauze round the crowns have only novelty to recommend them; the gauze of this kind is rather thick, and muslin-like in itself, and such a mode of trimming, if not relieved by light bouquets of coloured flowers, or a plume of variegated feathers, has a dead whiteness that is unbecoming to the complexion, and though the hat is transparent, makes it look heavy. A large carriage bonnet of plain white gros de Naples, is much in esteem; it is bent down on the forehead, and has a prodigious number of marabout feathers playing over the crown and brim in various directions.

The gowns for home costume, as we observed above, are made high, or sometimes only partially so; admitting a handsome lace frill, or collerette tippet below the throat, so as not to hide its beauty when well turned: we are happy to observe that the English ladies attend more to … off their peculiar charms of person, or … best improve their slight defects, than … fashion, which will not suit all alike. There is nothing new in the make of the spencers or pelisses, nor is it likely that there will be until the winter … French pelerine tippets made of broad ribbon … very long ends in front, chinese crape … bordered silk scarfs and cachmires are the most favourite out-door envelopes of the …

The colours most in esteem are pink, …, blue fawn colour, and bright geranium.

PARISIAN FASHIONS.

BUTTONS, placed very close to each other, are … only worn to fasten down pelisses, but there are … three rows placed down the front of the skirts … gowns: the rows on each side extend towards the border, so as to form a kind of apron. There are generally nine dozen of buttons made use of in this new species of trimming. There is nothing new in the manner of arranging the hair, nor in the form of the hats; the pilgrim’s hat predominates when it is of Leghorn. Straw hats have a large bow on one side, and are in the shape of those worn by the Swiss peasantry. Plumes of Marabout feathers are often worn on hats; chip hats are ornamented with large roses, or with pionies.

The lappets of some chip hats are lined, they are generally of tulle lined with broad coloured ribbon. They are sometimes an ell in length, and are not unusually fixed under the sash. Bonnets of gros de Naples are generally of a sea green or of rose colour.

One of the prettiest blouses in Organdy, embroidered in coloured worsted, has been seen at Dieppe, since which the most elegant Parisians have adopted them: the embroidery consists of three rows of bunches of lilacs, alternately lilac and white; to separate each row are two bias folds, very close to each other: the flowers are diversified contrariwise in each row. Some fashionists place at the edge of white chip hats a border made of rose leaves; round the crown is a band of the same, fastened on one side by a bow of white satin, with long ends, and on the other are two bows of ribbon; Leghorn hats are generally ornamented with a bunch of pinks or red daisies, and on hats of crape or gros de Naples, scabious with blue or green pistils. Blue bells, or single hyacinths of rose colour, are scattered over blond cornettes, they are also placed on most dress caps. Among the bonnets of gros de Naples that are trimmed with chevaux de frize of pinked silk, those of a bright apricot colour are most admired. We have seen at a brilliant evening dress party, a Spanish toque formed of striped gauze in bias; the stripes of rose colour on white; the centre was ornamented with a rosette of pearls, which was placed at the base of two curled feathers, one white, the other rose colour.

Straw colour, flesh colour, camel’s hair, or white, are the favourite colours for bonnets; those that are white are tied with white watered ribbon, or not unusally, with shaded ribbons, striped, and chequered with the most striking colours. On hats of gros de Naples, when the brims are plain and extended, the only trimming is a chichoree [A trimming resembling the curled leaves of endive], formed en dents de loups to the top of the crown: this trimming is always of some very conspicuous colour; for example, bright crimson on dark green, lemon colour on blue, mahogany brown on white. The fashionmongers have made use all this summer of satin and ribbon by whole pieces, in the … of hats. The crowns of leghorn hats are … by a band of flame coloured gros de Naples in the from of cockle shells. Musk roses … placed in the front of these hats, of a … than the natural flower. Tress toques are of crape lisse or crepe gauffree, and are generally … they are made in the russian form, and … with as many marabouts as they can find … them between; a plat of satin or crape … bandeau. The uncertantu of the weather … reason, that, instead of a white dress, … calash, a tilbury, or a landau, a black … is adopted. With this dress, which is worn … black satin slip, white gloves with open … seen; the shoes are of black shining … Turkey leather: the hat, scarf, and … coloured.

Notwithstanding the unfavourable weather … morning, and though the evenings are … fete at Vincennes was beautiful. There … charming dresses of that material woven … bark of trees; they were white with blue, … mahogany brown stripes; others were of light … yellow and walnut tree brown stripes. The … were made with falling collars, and the … were plaited in regular plaits; two broad … finished the border, and worn under the … a fichu of muslin, laid in large plaits. … of checkered muslin, called English muslin … the corsages puckered and confined at … bands, crosswise, had very full sleeves, … sleeves of plain muslin; these were terminated by three embroidered wrist bands; the trimm… border of these dresses was composed of … of muslin bouillones, each separated by … embroidery in white.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to November 1824

Back to September 1824