Newest London and Paris Fashions for December 1824

Evening Dress

EVENING DRESS

DRESS of soft satin or velvet of celestial blue. The border beautifully trimmed with a rich rouleau, entwined with silver cordon, in festoons, with blue rosettes, from whence depend silver tags. A straight rouleau the same as the festoon trimming surmounts the hem at the bottom of the skirt; corsage with the drapery, formed a la Greque, across the bust, and on each side: that across the bust fastened with a rosette in front with silver tags, as in the point formed by the termination of the side draperies, just above the belt, of the same material as the dress. The sleeves are short, and have a rosette on the outside of the arm next the shoulder. Swedish mantle of violet coloured satin, trimmed with white swan’s down, or ermine and lined throughout with white swan’s down, ermine, or levantine. The head dress a Veronese toque of gauze and silver lama, and an ornament, placed obliquely, in front, of finely wrought fillagree silver. The toque surmounted with a plume of white feathers, variegated. Opal necklace and bracelets, &c. White satin shoes.

Walking Dress

WALKING DRESS.

A pelisse of gros de Naples, the beautiful colour of the beet root, elegantly ornamented with the valuable fur of the lynx, in the most unique and truly novel manner (being the sole invention of Mrs. Bell of St. James’s Street) the fur is not only displayed, like the rouleaux of gros de Naples that divide it, in serpentine wavings, but also formed into beautiful sprigs of the Asiatic tree, supported and surrounded by stalks formed of narrow rouleaux of the same material as the pelisse. A pelerine cape trimmed with lynx fur to correspond. The sleeves en gigot, in point of form, but of more moderate dimensions than on the first appearance of this fashion, and confined at the wrists with broad gold eastern bracelets. A belt of the same material as the pelisse, fastened in front with a gold buckle, wrought in the same pattern as the Indian bars of gold at the wrist. A bonnet of the same colour and material as the pelisse, with fichu lappets, carelessly tied. Large bows, intermingled with black, or very short black feathers playing among the bows, finish this tasteful bonnet. – This unrivalled pelisse is lined throughout with rich white taffety.

NEWEST FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER, 1824.

Though, for some years past, fashion has demanded, that those her votaries who have splendid hereditary mansions, and large establishments in the country, should remain at them till after Christmas, a custom that first took its rise from the noble motives of old English Beneficence; yet, at the latter part of November’s cloudy month, and at the commencement of December, the different modes in the metropolis begin to wear a decided appearance, and we are enabled, from the various articles composing the female toilet, to pronounce on what is likely this winter, to be most in favour, as well as what is now universally adopted by the higher classes.

The newest articles for bonnets are some that are fancifully variegated, and consist of coloured chenille stripes worked across a ground of different coloured satin: we mention these, merely on account of their novelty; the shape is not becoming, and we prophesy that their reign will be but short. The other hats and bonnets, this month, especially those for the carriage are extremely beautiful: some are of black, others of lilac velvet; the black are sometimes trimmed at the edge with ruche, fire coloured and black, intermingled; and with striped ribbon, of correspondent colours: the lilac is trimmed with very dark puce-coloured sarcenet, in bows and lappets depending. A purple velvet hat has also a decided air of style and fashion about it, both as to the form, and the tasteful manner in which it is trimmed: it is lined with amber-coloured satin; on the left side of the lining are Spanish slashes, filled in with purple velvet. A weeping willow feather, of purple and amber, intermingled, droops over the right side; on which side, under the lining, is a quilling of black blond. A handsome black bonnet, for the promenade, is ornamented with the scarlet flower, named Turk’s cap, formed of crape, and black seraskier aigrettes of feathers: a small blond cornette should be worn under this bonnet. A bonnet of black velvet for the carriage, is also ornamented with scarlet Turk’s caps, each surmounted by black feather esprits. A full plume of black ostrich feathers is placed in front, and the plumage falls over behind. A bonnet of pink gros de Naples, finished for a carriage bonnet for a young lady of fashion struck us as very appropriate and tasteful: it was trimmed at the edge with white blond, of a rich pattern, and ornamented among the bows with several small slate coloured feathers.

To the inspecting of the above elegant bonnets we are indebted to the kindness of Mrs. Bell in St. James’s Street who has, also, just completed for two ladies of very distinguished rank, two beautiful out door envelopes, the trimming of which, in its most unique and splendid disposal, is entirely of her invention. One is a capacious Swedish mantle, the other a pelisse of gros de Naples. The mantle is of a bright vermillion colour, and the material of the most costly Genoa velvet. It is trimmed in rich rouleaux, in wavings of gros de Naples, and all round with the valuable fur of the black lynx. The fringe fur not only sepentizes in waves, if we may use the term, but tasteful ingenuity has also formed flowers of this glossy and valuable skin, which are placed between each interstice, and have a most magnificent effect. The pelisse is the colour of the bright rose of Japan, and is lined throughout with white levantine; the fur trimming and rouleaux are disposed in the same style on the Swedish mantle; and the bust, macherons, collar and cuffs are ornamented in a similar manner, in miniature.

A pelisse of slate coloured gros de Naples is an elegant out-door dress, it is made plain, as best suited to the promenade; though some ladies have these neat, unobtruding pelisses simply ornamented with one row of rouleaux, disposed in chain work, down each side of the skirt in front; they fasten close with buttons; the sleeves en gigot, and a pelerine cape finishes the dress. This kind of pelisse, made of satin, and trimmed with light sable or swan’s down, is well adapted for the carriage, and looks charmingly, as there are few to whom this colour is not becoming; and that is the chief acquisition that fashions disciples should endeavour to obtain: it was this that has made the Japanese rose such a standing colour, for every complexion is set off by it.

The turbans that are now worn, may be pronounced a glorious novelty, as they form an Aureole round the head; the shape is generally becoming; we saw a beautiful one of lapis blue satin, with a point on the forehead; the turban part was laid in flutings, and in the middle of the crown was a plain, raised ornament, like the fruit of the marshmallow, and when this turban is of the colour of the marshmallow blossom, this ornament is green, as it si by nature; these last mentioned are of gauze. A half dress turban is of white satin, with a lapis bow of satin, and long lappets of the same. The caps and cornettes are continually improving. A new cap for the theatre is elegant but too simply so for our ideas of what the head dresses ought to be in the dress department of a national theatre like ours: it is pointed on the forehead, and composed chiefly of tulle; beautiful, but very delicate sprigs of flowers are scattered over the cap. Another for the same purpose, is formed of very rich blond and pink satin, and ornamented with larger flowers, among which the full blown rose, that beautiful candle-light flower, is most conspicuous. A diadem cornette is a pretty head dress for home; it is of plain tulle, with broad pink gauze lappets; the cawl is also of mink gauze, and turns up in the front, with a diadem ornament: a simple row of pale pink primroses, divides the blond in front from the …

The dejune blouse cornet is of fine lace, with a broad border; the other part is formed of a striped pink ribbon and fine net; the lappets very long and broad, of striped ribbon, … trimmed all round, with narrow lace. … beautiful head dress we have seen for public spectacles, or dress parties, is a black velvet … brims of which in front are double, and edged with pearls: on the right side, the brim is … and the hat is small, discovers the hair … fully curled; these indentings are, also, edged with pearls; a very superb plume, partly … over the left side, of white ostrich feathers, completes this charming head dress: for the young lady and even for the matron, nothing can be more appropriate that this coiffure.

One of the newest articles in the gown department is a home costume of gros de Naples; it … and beautifully shot;- fire colour and am … made high, and finished from the shoulder … each side of the bust and skirt, with sho… each of which are fastened at both ends, … Almeida button of richly wrought gold; but the buttons do not depend from tags, like those worn by the Porteguese, but are fastened close to the … sleeves are long, plain, and nearly fit the … mancherons formed of straps and ornamented with Almeida buttons. The border of the skirt is ornamented with with two rows of united chevrons, in bias … dress of blue crepe lisse, over white satin, is admired for evening parties: the sleeves are of white lace; the whole of the white sleeve … from the shoulder, and discovers the … sleeve underneath: the body is made in the Greek style; which varies but little from … Greek, except that in the former, folds … place of the antique robings. The border of … is trimmed with two rows of detached bunches of … leaves, with a small Indian rose fixed to the centre of each; the sash of blue watered … on the left side, with very long ends, terminated in a broad fringe. The ball dresses are, at present, very simple; puckerings of gauze, and trimmed with blond, with white satin rouleaux, form the ornaments, whither the dress is of tulle, rich … gauze, or soft white satin; this last article … in favour, but it is expected that coloured … and crapes will be much patronised by the … of Terpsichore. The bodies for ball dresses are … beautiful; some are of white satin, with tulle … the bust in Brandenburghs, each row of … round with pearls: corsages of coloured … also ornamented in the same manner; … are entirely of tulle, and are ornamented … bust with straps of white satin, with corresponding sleeves, short and full. The favourite colours are the rose of Japanese rose, vermillion, fire-colour, amber, and pink.

PARISIAN FASHIONS

THE mourning has, for some time, excluded a variety of colours; but the scene of fashion begins to brighten. At the concert given by Mr Dossion at the Opera House, at the theatre of Madame, on the day of All Saints, a Moabitish turban was remarked on, which is fastened under the chin, adorned with a bird of Paradise. On several black velvet toques were plumes of black ostrich feathers, curled, and small white feathers, placed a l’Inca, adorned the hats that were of black velvet. Some white hats had on them daisies, that were black, and highly varnished. Some fashionists placed on a black velvet hat, white lappets, and a large bow of white satin: this bow is composed of three puffs, and four … cut round. The new hats are large in the brim, bo… in front and at the sides, and the crowns are high. Some black velvet hats have a fichu of the same … en marmotte, plaited on the summit of the crown, … large plaits. The mantles reckoned the most handsome, are of black satin, with two pelerine capes of black velvet, which descend as low as the elbow, and are lined with hwite satin. The only fur yet seen was of black marten, in fichu-palatines.

Coloured dresses have began to be bespoke, … the fashion-mongers; they are bright, and clouded, or have broad, shaded stripes, and the white silks are figured with raised leaves. On the first representation of Leocadia, at the Feydeau, every … was taken. We there saw dresses of plain velvet made with a kind of stomacher, the corsage trimmed round the bsut with a double row of tulle. A velvet pelerine was thrown over the shoulders, bordered with blond, laid in very large plauts. At the border of these dresses were four rouleaux of velvet, and four flounces of blond. Some dresses of reps silk were trimmed on the mancherons, and at the border of the gown with rows of Maltese crosses, made of black satin; a jet button marks the centre of the cross. The head-dresses were toques of black velvet, and turbans of striped gauze and satin, laid in a thousand little plaits. On the former were long white plumes, five feathers in a plume, placed spiral, and forming an enormous spread-out: on the latter were two black aigrettes, and a black bird of Paradise, or a long plume of black feathers, grouped together. A hat of black velvet was remarked, with the brim turned up in front; on the left side was a bouquet of marabouts, fixed so low that they mingled with the curls of hair on the neck. Another black velvet hat was ornamented with a very full wreath of different coloured flowers, made in velvet. All the young persons wore their hair elegantly arranged, with a jet comb, ear-rings of blue spun-glass. The Apollo’s knot formed two enormous bows, and the curls of hair confined on the temples by the two little jet combs, were in the form of a horse shoe. Several ladies of fashion, on quitting the theatre, enveloped themselves in a mantle of black velvet, with a pelerine cape of Chinchilla.

The dress-makers are seriously employed in making a corsage, similar to those worn in the time of Francis I. The puckerings of this corsage are all brought up to the chest, by a very large brooch of jewels; the folds or puckerings enlarge, as they are brought on each side of the bust which form the wheat-sheaf, in a transverse sense to that when the body is said to be made en gerbe.

Blond flounces are the trimmings most in vogue for dress gowns. We have seen a dress of spotted velvet, Emma colour, the border of which was trimmed with a broad flounce of blond, set on in festoons; above the flounce were tufts of foliage formed of satin, to answer the colours of the dress, each leaf trimmed with narrow blond edging: the petticoat was terminated by a bouillon in pipes, placed between two rouleaux. The corsage was square, with a falling tucker of blond, over which was a satin foliage, of smaller dimensions than that on the border; the sleeves were ornamented in a correspondent manner.

The mourning damps, the efforts of our artists, fashion-mongers and dress-makers; there are, however, some charming silks to be found in our mercers’ shops, both figured and plain. Shaded Spanish silks, and fancy India silks; these colours are named, the tree of Judea, and Ipsaraearth; and there are merinos the colour of Helen’s tunic, and the sable of Nubia. Velvet hats are shaped a la Bolivar; the brim round and very large: at present there are but few dress hats, but toques and turbans are of the most charming diversity. Over silk dresses are worn pelerines of crape or gauze, trimmed with bias folds, raised; there are also seen long sleeves of gauze, the wristbands of which are concealed by ribbons the colour of the gown, and which tie on the inside of the …

Next in favour to black velvet hats, are those of pomgranite colour; the brim round and large, and very much bent down over the forehead; at the … of the crown, which is high, is a large bow of … bound with satin: these bows are formed of puffs in which are mixed ends of velvet, and … the crown is a bouillon of velvet. We hace seen a very lovely hat, composed of black velvet and coloured satin, and black blond; another … barbel blue velvet, and the bottom of the crown was covered with ribbons clouded with blue and two aigrettes of gold lama, turned back, were worn with much taste. The toques, of whatever material, are all black; they were the predominant head-dress at the first representation of Fiesque, at the … There were also demi-turbans of gauze part … and which were higher on one side than the other.

Dark shaded silks are nest in favour to black; there is nothing new in the corsages; they are still … and the only novelty is in the disposal of the … the ornaments on the mancherons are always made to correspond with those on the border of the coat, which are generally of full bouillons of … confined by bows or points of satin. With … for half dress, the long sleeves of gauze are made very wide, and if the dress is black, they are …

In parties that are given on account of … where young people are obliged to dance, the … dresses of tulle, cut in points round the … These dresses do not come down lower than the bouillon of satin which ornaments the bottom of the satin slip underneath. The sash or belt worn with dress gowns is round, and fastened by … formed of four or five little pointed ends.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to January 1825

Back to November 1824

Newest London and Paris Fashions for November 1824

Morning Dress

MORNING DRESS

MILANESE robe of fine French lawn, elegantly ornamented down the front, and without side of the arms of the long sleeve with delicately wrought cordon. The petticoat ornamented with two broad tucks, between which is fine lace, pointed a la neige, one row of which finishes the hem next the feet. The corsage made en blouse and the sleeves en gigot. Morning corsette with broad lace en dents de loups, next the face, and crowned with leaves of ribbon; sash fastened with a buckle in front instead of a bow, the ends descending to the knee. Black satin shoes.

Walking and Carriage Costume

WALKING AND CARRIAGE COSTUME

Pelisse of Japanese rose colour silk, elegantly trimmed all round with a rich sable fringe fur, and narrow satin rouleaux, or silk braiding, down the sides in front; collar partially elevated and surmounted by a ruff of Urling’s lace. Aragonese hat of black velvet, crowned with a beautiful plumage of black ostrich feathers. The waist of the pelisse encircled by a belt of the same material as the pelisse fastened with a gold buckle. Reticule en gibeciere of Japanese rose colour, and holy-leaf green ribbon.

NEWEST FASHIONS FOR NOVEMBER

Through the fogs and thick atmosphere that generally prevail in this most unpleasant month of the year, we have been gratified with beholding some ladies eminent for rank, fashion, and beauty, who have already emerged from their country recesses, to grace the first metropolis in the world; where, shining like glittering stars amidst the gloom, they cheer the sight, and dispense pleasure and hilarity by their enlivening presence.

The bleak north-wind has, at times, been heard, and has warned the fair to wrap round her form the warm enveloping Pyrenean mantle, or the yet more comfortable and close pelisse; the former are expected to be much in requisition at the commencement of winter; they are chiefly of levantine, of a dark hue, well wadded, and lined with bright and beautiful colours; when the mantle is puce-colour, or black, the lining is generally the colour of the bright Ceylon ruby, which, being paler than the other Oriental rubies, and particularly bright above even the Brazilian ruby, has a charming effect. Mantles of a fine lavender grey of the new Pyrennean form, are lined with rose colour. Pelisses, when of velvet, are of amaranth; royal purple or black; those of the two latter colours are fastened down the front with the delicate pattes of the little zibeline in finely wrought gold, and gold bracelets confine the sleeves of this most comfortable of all winter out-door coverings. Fur tippets of every description are worn over warm high dresses, or over the rich silk pelisse, they consist chiefly of ermine, the grey squirrel, and the valuable zibeline. The Norway-rat-fur declines in price; it was getting very common last year; we shudder at its plenitude, yet till that Norwegian scourge is totally annihilated, we yet wish to see it worn, as it encourages the hunters to attempt its destruction.

Several ladies belonging to our court, during the short mourning for Louis XVIII. wore, in ordinary costume, rich, and highly glazed black satin, with three rows of narrow triple flounces of italian net, bound and headed by black satin narrow rouleaux: the corsages were quite plain, and were made high or low, with short sleeves or long, according to the time of day or style of dress. Satins are expected to be very prevalent for dresses this winter. We have seen a most beautiful robe for half dress, which is perfectly unique in its kind, and is called the Arachne robe; if that unfortunate nymph ever spun anything of so fine a texture as the material this dress is made of, we wonder not at her daring to rival Minerva at spinning: it is made of the fine elastic net-work, which compose the rainbow elastic shawls, and is lined throughout with white gossamer satin: the ground of the net is of the palest shade of peach-blossom, with sprigs of different colours, of the Indian kind, beautifully shaded. The body is made partially low, and the front en gerbe; the skirt is trimmed en pelisse down each side of the front, and round the border, with satin rouleaux and cordons, correspondent in colour with the sprigs: these trimmings separate, as they reach the hem at the bottom, and the separation is filled in by an antique point a la grecque, which has the appearance of a semi-tabliere. The sleeves are moderately wide, and are fastened from the wrist, half way up the arm, with straps the same as the rouleau trimming; the only fault we find with this expensive dress, is its not appearing so valuable as it is; it requires a close inspection to discover its beauties. White dresses are not yet laid aside: they are of fine jaconet muslin, trimmed with flounces of exquisite embroidery; over the last of these flounces is a slight bouillon of embroidered muslin, with open-work, through which is run a broad lapis of coloured satin ribbon; the corsage and sleeves are beautifully embroidered or trimmed with that elegant and continually improving article, Urling’s lace, and fanciful ornaments of satin lapis ribbon. Gauze, richly figured, either brocaded, or flock gauze is preferred for ball dresses to tulle or crepe lisse. The half-dresses are simple: they are made much en blouse, but the blouse of the English is certainly an improvement on the French. Striped silks of a thicker texture than those worn in the spring, seem in favour. A few corsages have been seen, very fancifully trimmed about the bust; some with points, from whence depend drop buttons, others with chicoree trimmings laid in bias; and as these trimmings are put on, in a way that seems an improvement on the gallo-greek style, when they are well disposed, they impart a fullness and breadth to the chest, where it is wanting; but that is not a defect among the English ladies, and therefore this way of making the corsage only looks well on those that are spare. The borders of dresses are ornamented with rows of triple flounces, points a la neige, reversed bunches of loto leaves, and bouillons. Flowers on ball dresses are, at present, but carelessly scattered; bouillons of gauze or tulle, with blond flounces, form the other ornaments, interspersed with satin in various ways, and these materials are equally in request, either for the dress evening party, or for the ball-room.

Last month was famous for the invention of several charming head-dresses; a few have now been added of a still more novel description. One is a full dress Neapolitan cap of white tulle over white satin, richly embroidered, and sprinkled over with ornaments of polished steel; nothing can equal the work on the summit of the crown, where the steel, in fine threads, forms the finest open work, surrounded in a superb pattern by thicker threads and beads in embossments; in front is a small sprig of wheat-ears, in polished steel, and a plume of marabout feathers finishes the splendid head-dress. Another new full dress toque did not please us quite so well; though it is well fancied, there are but few faces that it will become; the part that lies on the front of the hair, and it is brought rather low over the forehead, is of silver net; and is surmounted by points … blue satin edged with silver and finished … of white feathers, tipped with blue. … toque hat is most beautiful; for, as … was symbolical of variety, so, that of … of this head-dress, its light caul of tulle … pink satin rouleaux, with the delicate .. colour of the satin hat part, that is turn … down, and sideways, in so many bewitching … while an unrivalled plume of short white … is taught to play over the whole in all … but all description of this truly unique … fail; it must be seen to be rightly appreciated … only fit for a fashionable belle; and belle, … animated countenance, she ought to be, … it. A new cap for the dejeune is invented … formed of two fichus, trimmed round … lace; one point of these lies on the … the front of a cornette; it ties under the … is slightly ornamented with a handsome … ribbon of two colours. The St. Cecilia diadem … private concerts, is another novelty; it is … blond. Encircling the hair in the front are … like those of the martyr St Catherine’s … are of tulle edged with blond, and white … caul is transparent and very simple: this requires fine hair, and much taste in the …

A very superbe cornette of blond, of a … beautiful pattern, is well worthyb of admiration for its shape, and the elegant manner in which the blond borders fall over each other: it is ornamented with pink gauze, brocaded ribbon. Caps of Mechlin lace, ornamented with lapis blue ribbon, and with white flowers are much worn for in-door … and a turban toque is expected to be much … at the theatres, and friendly evening parties … white satin; in the front is placed an … formed of turquoise stones, and the white relieved by blue crape, and plumes of white feathers. Black satin hats, with either black or white feathers, slightly … in high favour; and black bonnets, with … flowers are expected to be again in request this winter; already some of them have made their appearance; their size and shape are very becoming … lappets that confine them are of black s… and tulle, but they no longer float; the … the chin, or the left side, which is certainly … appropriate to winter. Chip hats are no longer … and transparent bonnets have totally disappeared; a few of white gros de Naples, are still seen in carriages, and leghorn hats and bonnets … with richly striped dark-coloured ribbons are much in favour for the morning promenade.

The colours most in esteem are lapis, … amaranthine, royal-purple, and pale pink.

PARISIAN FASHIONS

On the 17th of September, the court went into morning for seven months, on the death of his Majesty, Louis XVIII.

The time of mourning is divided into three degrees; the first for three months, the second for two, and the last for two months; the orders are as folloes:

FIRST MOURNING – For men’s full court dress, or for ordinary costume. – Crape sword knots, waistcoats and breeches of black cloth; the shirt frill and ruffles of plain lawn, the sword-hilt and buckles lackered black. Black worsted stockings and black gloves. The military wear only a crape round the arm, crape sword-knots and hat-bands. The usual dress is a complete suit of black, without buttons, with very deep weepers, during the first month, and narrow ones during the second and third; frill and ruffles of plain lawn; sword-hilt and buckles bronzed, stockings of black worsted, and long crape hat-band.

For Ladies. – During the first month, dresses of black stuffs, trimmed with the same, coif and fichu of black crape. During the other two months, … the first period, a dress of black stuff, trimmed with crape, cap and fichu of white crape, stockings and cloves of black silk, jet ornaments.

SECOND PERIOD. – Court and civil costume. – Crape sword-knots, waistcoat and breeches of black cloth. Shirt frill and ruffles of muslin with a broad hem, black silk stockings; sword-hilt and buckles as before. Officers with crape sword-knots and round the arm.

Usual dress. – An entire suit of black with buttons … frill and ruffles of broad-hemmed muslin, black silk stockings, sword-hilt of polished steel or silver, silver buckles, and the hat without a hat band.

For Ladies. – Dress of black silk, trimmed with white crape, white crape cap, stockings and gloves of black silk, ornaments, pearls and diamons.

THIRD PERIOD.- The men to wear waistcoats and breeches of black silk, and the sword hilts and buckles as usual, at court. For the usual dress costume, coat, waistcoat and breeches of black silk, sword-hilt and buckles of polished steel or silver.

For Ladies. – A dress of white or black and white pearl and diamond ornaments. No coloured gems to be worn during the whole time of mourning.

During the time that the theatres were closed, there were seen on the Boulevards, and in the Champs Elysees, a great many ladies in white dresses of muslin, organdy, or cambric, with black crape hats ornamented with black flowers, or black ostrich feathers, slightly curled, or else with flat, triangular bows of crape. On some of the white dresses were worn black sashes, a la Leonide, where the ribbon formed an X on the breast, and a V behind: others wore fichus a la neige, forming two pelerines, one over the other, cut in very sharp points.

There have lately been produced from the work-rooms of our dress-makers, some gowns of black cachemire, the corsages of which are ornamented with broad worsted braiding. The mancherons, or the sleeves of these dresses are bouillonnes, and are bordered and relieved by the same braiding; the sleeves are long and wide, and are confined by five or six bands of puckered crape. The trimming round the border of the skirt is composed of bouillons of cachemire, separated by rows of braiding.

Many black satin hats are seen covered with crape. The strings are of ribbon, the lappets of gauze, but either are tied and form a bow near the left ear. The crowns of the mourning hats are very low and the brims large.

The toques for mourning are of crepe lisse in bias, and are more in the form of a diadem than a turban, on one side is fixed a plume of drooping feathers.

The fans are of crepe, or of black glazed paper: black sticks and fastenings.

Among the colours that are worn with black, by persons who are not in a situation to wear mourning according to the order, we have remarked various shades of grey. All the grey stuffs, whether they are of lavender or of blue grey, have broad black stripes. Young persons and children, who are not dressed entirely in black, have, at least, a sash, gloves, and veil of black; the ribbons on their hats are also black. The rest of the costume is white.

Some fans have been seen in ivory stained black, they are carved in open work; there are also some black paper fans, striped with white.

Diamonds and pearls cannot be worn during a court mourning for the first three months. Jet, fer de Berlin, and polished steel, bronze, are the only ornaments allowed in the jewellery line. The last of these articles are most admired. Small bags a la Melpomene, or au Phenix, present an elegant dispsal of foliage, in black gros de Naples, ornamented with open tufts; this foliage being united forms a kind of basket, either round or square. The new mourning pins and brooches are simple but allegorical.

In the first visits of ceremony paid at court, it was remarked that the dresses of the ladies were of bombazin trimmed with crape; the bodies were made very low, and the short sleeves remarkably full. Some had long transparent sleeves of black crape. The head-dress was a cap of black crape which discovered two tufts of hair; depending from these caps was a long veil.

At all the public places, whether at the theatres or the promenades, we meet more than two thirds of the people in mourning: ladies, whose limited income will not allow them to adopt the complete costume, are, nevertheless seen with all the accessories that mourning requires; such as black shawls, sashes, hats, stockings and gloves of the same sable hue; in order to evince the share they take in the general sorrow.

Several ladies distinguished by their rank in society, and famed for the elegance of their taste, have as yet worn no other dress than bombazin, made en blouse. The bottom of the skirt is trimmed with three bias folds, very close to each other; often a fold of crape … the two that are of the same material as the dress.

Dresses of black cachemire, the trimming f… one very large bouillon, fastened with tufts o… trimming and crossing diagonally the bo… equal distances, are much admired. However, the generality of dresses are of gros de Naples, … either with bias folds, honeycombs, or bound with flock gauze. They are made low to display the bust: and the fichus and colerettes of black … are marked by much diversity in their manner. We have seen in the Tuileries a very pretty dress composed of a black crape pelisse lined with black … between the two broad folds with which … faced on each side, from the shoulders to … were placed small black buttons of jet … buttons were of the same shape as those … the Hussars; they were placed very close to one another; the sash and bracelets were of … black caps that were requisite for … Court, in the commencement of the … were of black cachemire.

The hats are of gros de Naples, with a round crown, placed very forward; the brim is long in front and short .. the ears: the bows and lappets are of gauze … ends of the lappets are sometimes finished … acorn. Undress bonnets are of gros de Naples, gauze or crape; they are bent down over … head, and they have a chicoree trimming … edge.

The cold has, for a few days, … tense; so that pelisses and mantles were universal; those that were made for the occasion, were of black cachemire, lined with … and satin collars. However, coloured … often seen with mourning dresses, and are … even on the days of the King’s entry, … Tuileries, and on coming out of the theatre.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to December 1824

Back to October 1824

Newest London and Paris Fashions for October 1824

Dinner Party Dress

DINNER PARTY DRESS.

Dress of sea-green gros de Naples, made partially high, with light ornaments on the corsage, in stripes downwards, but so calculated as to not take off the close fitting to the contour of the waist, which is finished by a narrow tucker of blond. The border of the skirt is ornamented en Cherubins, with a novel kind of puckering next the wadded rouleau over the hem. The long sleeves rather close to the arm, with full mancherons, an the wrist confined by a finely-wrought gold bracelet, with turquoise-stone fastening, Canezou fichu, of Urling or french tulle, trimmed with very fine lace or blond, and finished at each end by a rosette of white watered ribbon. Ariadne-toque, of pink and white satin, with a delicate plume of white feathers, tipped and edged with pink. Ariadne streamer, fastened on one side as a lappet.

Blouse Pelisse Dress

BLOUSE PELISSE DRESS.

Pelisse of pale cinnamon brown of gros de Naples, lined with pink, faced and trimmed round the border with ethereal blue and pink; sleeves en gigot, confined at the wrists with two bracelets. Falling rounded collar trimmed at the edge to correspond with the skirt, and fastened in front with a rosette of ribbon of the same colours. Colerette of fine India muslin, trimmed round with lace. Bonnet of white watered gros de Naples, bound and trimmed with blue and pink striped ribbon. Walking slippers or half-boots of kid, the same colour as the pelisse, and canary yellow kid gloves.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR OCTOBER.

“Fashion in every thing bears soverign sway.”

So says the bard, and his assertion is verified by the continued sojournment in the country of the higher orders, in spite of chilly rains, and the sun’s enlivening light, because fashion so ordains. The summer recesses are all life, gaiety, and bustle, while the west-end of the town presents a dreary vacancy, wanting the splendid carriages to give brilliancy to the spacious streets and squares of the metropolis, and the presence of those for whom the tasteful saloons pour forth at the midnight hour, the blaze of artificial day, equalled only,

“By gems and radiant eyes.”

The orders, however, given to the most skilful of our marchandes de modes, keep them in continual employ, and they are preparing, with incessant assiduity, those various auxiliaries to beauty that the toilet affors, especially when guided by the suggestions of elegance and taste.

The versatility and beauty of the head-dresses, in the cap and cornette style, we believe were never equalled in the appearance they bear this month. The cornette a la neige, is much more becoming, from its dimensions being less broad, than the cap a la neige, worn last month: this cornette is composed of blond, narrow rouleaux of pink satin, and detached bouquets of various flowers, placed in the interstices of points formed of blond, lightly quilled. The dejeune cornette is of fine mechlin lace, with two simple bows of striped, coloured ribbon, and the home, or half dress cornette is of blond of an entirely new pattern, the edge in Castillian points, and very open; it is very tastefully ornamented with small bows of rich brocade gauze pink ribbon; a friendly party dinner cornette of the same kind of blond, lightly scattered over with small bouquets of different flowers grouped together. The summer theatre turban cap is a very elegant head-dress; it is composed of plain white Japanese gauze, laid in bi-folds, ornamented with full blown roses and lillies of the valley. The half dress cornettes of tulle and blond are trimmed with blue or rose coloured satin; the blond border is caught up over each temple, with a variegated carnation: when the cornette is trimmed with blue, it is ornamented in front with a half wreath, of the flower called Solomon’s seal, made of feathers. A blouse head-dress is in favour for receiving morning visits, or when the lady is indisposed; it is of figured tulle with a very broad border of blond, and is finished with single knots of blue satin ribbon; two very long lappets of blue satin and blond hang depending over the shoulders: the face should be young and pretty that wears this head-dress. The Mary Stuart hat-cap is a charming evening head-dress; the front consists of a double row of fluted broad blond wired, by which means it bends over the forehead, and extends wide over each temple, in the true ancient scotch style; the crown is of blue gauze with plaid work in narrow rouleaux of blue satin; to divide the crown from the head-piece is a broad blond, set en fers de cheval, one standing up like a wing on the left side, and on the right, and in front is a full blown rose. On the left temple, under the border, but without catching it up, is a sprig of acorns and oakleaves.

Black is expected to be very much won at the decline of the year; at present that sombre tint is confined to richly figured gauze and lace; and then it appears not gloomy, because it is generally spread over a white satin slip, or one of peach, pink, jonquil, or bright ruby; black satins, however, elegantly embellished with broad white lace of a vandyck pattern, are among the promised dresses for the close of autumn. The embroidered muslin petticoats, worn with silk pelisses and spences, have much open work in the borders, and very deep scallops at the edges. Coloured dresses of gros de Naples, richly trimmed about the corsages and sleeves with blond, are much worn at dinner and evening parties; a broad border of double rouleaux of satin in separate rows, divided by chain beading, or rich silk cordon forms the favourite ornament on the skirt of this dress. High dresses of gros de Naples or Levantine, are now more worn than those of white muslin for home costume; they are of light, but unobtrusive colours, such as fawn, date leaf, or light slate. Ball dresses are of tulle generally placed over white satin: the border of puckered tulle; each pucker which is long and full is confined by white satin straps of fluted rouleaux, with small bouquets of flowers. The corsages most preferred are of satin of a light summer colour; they are rather more ornamented than they were last month, with drop fillagree buttons and silk cordon.

Black satin bonnets are already in preparation; they are of a beautiful shape and moderate size; they differ, however, from those worn last winter, and the strings are placed very backward, underneath the bonnet: one we have seen is lined with coquelicot, and is ornamented in wreaths, placed horizontally, of scarlet thistles made of feathers. As the winter comes on, these bonnets will, no doubt, be succeeded by those of velvet. White hats and bonnets are, however, at present, the rage: some transparent white hats are made of stiffened net, and rouleaux of satin, in alternate rows; the puffings of the white Japanese gauze round the crowns have only novelty to recommend them; the gauze of this kind is rather thick, and muslin-like in itself, and such a mode of trimming, if not relieved by light bouquets of coloured flowers, or a plume of variegated feathers, has a dead whiteness that is unbecoming to the complexion, and though the hat is transparent, makes it look heavy. A large carriage bonnet of plain white gros de Naples, is much in esteem; it is bent down on the forehead, and has a prodigious number of marabout feathers playing over the crown and brim in various directions.

The gowns for home costume, as we observed above, are made high, or sometimes only partially so; admitting a handsome lace frill, or collerette tippet below the throat, so as not to hide its beauty when well turned: we are happy to observe that the English ladies attend more to … off their peculiar charms of person, or … best improve their slight defects, than … fashion, which will not suit all alike. There is nothing new in the make of the spencers or pelisses, nor is it likely that there will be until the winter … French pelerine tippets made of broad ribbon … very long ends in front, chinese crape … bordered silk scarfs and cachmires are the most favourite out-door envelopes of the …

The colours most in esteem are pink, …, blue fawn colour, and bright geranium.

PARISIAN FASHIONS.

BUTTONS, placed very close to each other, are … only worn to fasten down pelisses, but there are … three rows placed down the front of the skirts … gowns: the rows on each side extend towards the border, so as to form a kind of apron. There are generally nine dozen of buttons made use of in this new species of trimming. There is nothing new in the manner of arranging the hair, nor in the form of the hats; the pilgrim’s hat predominates when it is of Leghorn. Straw hats have a large bow on one side, and are in the shape of those worn by the Swiss peasantry. Plumes of Marabout feathers are often worn on hats; chip hats are ornamented with large roses, or with pionies.

The lappets of some chip hats are lined, they are generally of tulle lined with broad coloured ribbon. They are sometimes an ell in length, and are not unusually fixed under the sash. Bonnets of gros de Naples are generally of a sea green or of rose colour.

One of the prettiest blouses in Organdy, embroidered in coloured worsted, has been seen at Dieppe, since which the most elegant Parisians have adopted them: the embroidery consists of three rows of bunches of lilacs, alternately lilac and white; to separate each row are two bias folds, very close to each other: the flowers are diversified contrariwise in each row. Some fashionists place at the edge of white chip hats a border made of rose leaves; round the crown is a band of the same, fastened on one side by a bow of white satin, with long ends, and on the other are two bows of ribbon; Leghorn hats are generally ornamented with a bunch of pinks or red daisies, and on hats of crape or gros de Naples, scabious with blue or green pistils. Blue bells, or single hyacinths of rose colour, are scattered over blond cornettes, they are also placed on most dress caps. Among the bonnets of gros de Naples that are trimmed with chevaux de frize of pinked silk, those of a bright apricot colour are most admired. We have seen at a brilliant evening dress party, a Spanish toque formed of striped gauze in bias; the stripes of rose colour on white; the centre was ornamented with a rosette of pearls, which was placed at the base of two curled feathers, one white, the other rose colour.

Straw colour, flesh colour, camel’s hair, or white, are the favourite colours for bonnets; those that are white are tied with white watered ribbon, or not unusally, with shaded ribbons, striped, and chequered with the most striking colours. On hats of gros de Naples, when the brims are plain and extended, the only trimming is a chichoree [A trimming resembling the curled leaves of endive], formed en dents de loups to the top of the crown: this trimming is always of some very conspicuous colour; for example, bright crimson on dark green, lemon colour on blue, mahogany brown on white. The fashionmongers have made use all this summer of satin and ribbon by whole pieces, in the … of hats. The crowns of leghorn hats are … by a band of flame coloured gros de Naples in the from of cockle shells. Musk roses … placed in the front of these hats, of a … than the natural flower. Tress toques are of crape lisse or crepe gauffree, and are generally … they are made in the russian form, and … with as many marabouts as they can find … them between; a plat of satin or crape … bandeau. The uncertantu of the weather … reason, that, instead of a white dress, … calash, a tilbury, or a landau, a black … is adopted. With this dress, which is worn … black satin slip, white gloves with open … seen; the shoes are of black shining … Turkey leather: the hat, scarf, and … coloured.

Notwithstanding the unfavourable weather … morning, and though the evenings are … fete at Vincennes was beautiful. There … charming dresses of that material woven … bark of trees; they were white with blue, … mahogany brown stripes; others were of light … yellow and walnut tree brown stripes. The … were made with falling collars, and the … were plaited in regular plaits; two broad … finished the border, and worn under the … a fichu of muslin, laid in large plaits. … of checkered muslin, called English muslin … the corsages puckered and confined at … bands, crosswise, had very full sleeves, … sleeves of plain muslin; these were terminated by three embroidered wrist bands; the trimm… border of these dresses was composed of … of muslin bouillones, each separated by … embroidery in white.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to November 1824

Back to September 1824

Newest London and Paris Fashions for September 1824

Ball Dress

BALL DRESS

Dress of yellow crepe lisse over white gossamer satin; the dress elegantly ornamented with puckered flutings of gauze separated by satin rouleaux and beautifully finished by bouquets of yellow roses; the petticoat part ornamented a l’Arcadie. The corsage plain with a Sevigne drapery across the bust. The sleeves composed almost fine soft of fine white blond. Eastern turban, the entirely material divided by bands of finely wrought gold, with a tasteful plume of white feathers tipped and edged with yellow. Broad bracelets of wrought, or chased gold, with a ruby clasp. Necklace and ear-rings set a l’antique, of rubies and gold.

Sea Side Dress

SEA SIDE DRESS

Round high dress of India muslin, with scalloped tuck foldings at the border, and blouse sleeves. French fichu tippet, made of ribbon, in double points, the ends brought in front, under a belt of the same, fastened with a gold buckle. Over the fichu tippet, a falling collar of fine lace. Bonnet of pink gros de Naples, with honeycomb edge of pink gauze; the crown ornamented with large bows of broad pink ribbon. Parasol of pistachio colour fringed with white. Over the wrists of the dress, three bracelets of gold and garnets placed at equal distances. Maiden’s blush-rose coloured kid gloves and shoes.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR SEPTEMBER

It is at this autumnal period, that the Proprietors of THE WORLD OF FASHION, more particularly avail themselves of the indefatigable attention of their numerous correspondents, now stationed at the most favoured summer retreats of the great and gay, where taste, beauty, and elegance hold their temporary reign. From these genuine sources, and the information from one of the most eminent among those who devote their time and abilities to the service of the toilet, we present our kind and munificent patronesses with the following statement, which, if it bears not the importance and versatility that mark our winter fashions, will yet be found to contain some novelties and improvements in modern attire.

The trimmings on dresses are more appropriate in their mixture and association of colours than they were last month; and white is now very generally worn at all times of the day, either in fine cambric for the morning, the finest decca muslin for the dinner party, or the gossamer-like gauze lisse for the fete champetre. We have seen a most elegant India muslin dress for a dinner party costume, it was superbly trimmed with the finest Mechlin lace, and ethereal blue satin ribbon; the corsage was formed entirely of lace, and worn over one of blue satin; the sleeves short, and the full trimmings of lace on them were disposed in those light and elegant wavings, as to preserve all the beauty of the pattern; small sprigs of blue bells ornamented the bust, and caught up a part of the sleeve. Where the dress is of tulle or gauze lisse, the body is generally of white satin; this body is distinguished by a plainness we never witnessed before; it is, however, a simplicity that is very attractive; for it marks out in a very conspicuous manner the charms of a fine shape: it is, in its present plain state, an article of dress that never ought to be adopted unless made by one at the head of her profession and well known for her peculiar manner of well fitting; the one we saw sat like a glove, but the corsets made by this Marchande de Modes, are certainly unrivalled, and therefore it is not wonderful that she so well knows how to set off the contours of the female form: these new corsages also fasten behind, and the full sleeves are ornamented with blond. A dress of gros de Naples, made partially, high, and intended for social dinner parties, is much admired; it is of a bright Apollo’s hair colour; a collar falls over the shoulders, the edge in battlement indentures, finished by a very narrow binding of lilac satin, which forms a beautiful association with the colour of the dress: this collar is ornamented besides with narrow lilac pearl silk beading and fillagree-wrought lilac buttons. Another dress, for in-door costume, is of Egyptian sand colour, it is made high, with a collar partially standing up, and then turning back again; it has long full sleeves, and is made altogether extremely plain; this colour looks extremely well when trimmed with ponceau, or with bright Burgundy colour. Slight silks with stripes or small chequers, are favourite materials for home attire: but white dresses are very general, and ornamented with rich embroidery; most of them have flounces edged with work, and splendid rows of embroidery between each flounce; such are the petticoats worn with each summer coloured spencer, that can be thought on; and which spencer is often retained the whole day, in the rural residence: this smart and pleasing article of dress is trimmed in various ways; in embossments of satin, representing foliage, Mexican plumes, branches of Lotos, and often with imitative braiding.

As we predicted, the gaudy mixture of various discordant colours in feathers and flowers, is rapidly declining; and the finest bonnet that has appeared at one of our most fashionable summer recesses, is of pink figured gros de Naples, crowned with full blown roses with their buds and foliage: a carriage hat, too, of lemon coloured crape, has a little of the old finery about it; but it is stylish and becoming: it is ornamented at the edge with long puffs of plaited gauze, the colour of the bonnet; the puffs are separated by scarlet wheat ears, and the flowers that crown it consist of scarlet lichens and corn poppies. Puckered tulle over stiffened net, is a favourite material for bonnets of the transparent kind; the flowers on the crown are numerous, and consist of almost every kind and colour; but as they are well grouped together, and the bonnet is white, they look well. A dress hat, shaped a la Marguerite, is of transparent tulle, and is ornamented with a superb plume of flat ostrich feathers.

Amongst the newest head-dresses, is the turban cornette, and a beautiful cap a la neige: the former is of etherial blue gauze; and next the face is one row of very rich white blond, of a Vandyck pattern, set on scanty; this border lies on the hair, and gives a fine relief to the head-dress: slightly scattered amongst the puckerings of the blue gauze, are small bunches of pink convolvuluses, and lillies of the valley; this is one of the most becoming and elegant articles we have yet seen of the cornette kind. The bonnet a la neige, is fabricated completely of the best and richest blond; this material forms an ornament in front, and nearly all round the head, en fers de cheval, in each hollow is fixed a beautiful flower; a variegated carnation, a half blown rose, &c. Very long lappets of tulle and blond, rounded at the ends, depend gracefully from this head-dress; this novelty and taste of which, certainly form its highest recommendation, as the manner in which it is ornamented makes the head look large, and it will not do for a lady who has a full round face; but the oval countenance will look well in it.

Though muslin pelisses are much in favour when the weather is sultry, yet in September, it is most likely that the light-coloured silk pelisses will be again resumed; indeed some are in preparation of a more demi-saison colour, for the autumn, and it is expected that violet and puce colour will be the colours much in favour for this comfortable out door enveloppe. Shawls of Chinese … at present, in very high request.

The form of the crowns of straw bonnets … every day; and the ribbon that surrounds … not be too broad. Sometimes it is a piece … edged with two narrow straw ornaments … a ribbon: in the front is a bouquet of …

Instead of placing at the bottom of a … when the hat is of chip, a bow with the … they now place all over the crown, a … light flowers, with full ornament on the …The fashionists surround the brims … coloured, blue, jonquil, or white crape … broad bias, at equal distance falls … jessamine, seemingly escaping from the … that ornaments the hat.

The most approved colours are pink, …-colour, cerulean blue, Apollo’s hair, and …

PARISIAN FASHIONS

We have remarked a very elegant dress of white watered gros de Naples, trimmed with three rows of open honeycomb a la Neige, in tulle; a toque was worn with it of blond, forming a kind of bonnet on which were ornaments of white satin arranged with the most exquisite taste. White chip hats are ornamented with pionies, or with a very large full blown rose with buds. The hair, elegantly drest, is often ornamented with a tuft of flowers, on one temple, and on the other a cluster of curls. Dresses of Organdy, with clear muslin sleeves very full; the corsages the same as last month, nor is there any change in the dispsal of the trimming.

At the late brilliant fetes at Tivoli, the dresses were remarkable for their neat simplicity more than for their elegance: gowns of white Organdy trimmed in various ways; chip hats, ornamented with flowers and marabouts; pilgrims’ hats of leghorn, shot silk scarfs, and sashes of coloured ribbons were very general. Sometimes were seen very broad ribbons, two ends of which belonging to the sash, hung down in front of the dress; they were fastened at the waist by a buckle: these ribbons were so broad, that they appeared like those little aprons worn by the young swiss females, or like those seen on the stage, where the actress or the dancer is drest as a shepperdess. Tucks are no longer in favour at the border of muslin dresses: narrow flounces or rows of coxcombs are more admired, between each row of either is one of fine embroidery. A pelisse of cambric, made to wrap over the bust, yet beautifully fitted to the shape, is much admired; a broad honeycomb of plain muslin formed of three rows of flutings, is placed on the side that crosses over; the neck is partially left open, and a falling collar, with the same trimming finishes it; but this collar is very narrow and so well cut, that it appears as if it belonged to the corsage, and does not spread over the shoulders. The skirt is finished with only a simple broad hem. Long pointed handkerchiefs, in muslin trimmed all round with a double honeycomb in net, are often seen instead of shawls or scarfs; a large bow of ribbon is fixed at the extremity of each end of the handkerchief.

Next to the corsages en blouses, which are generally adopted, even when the dress is of silk, muslin, or other summer materials, there are many pelisses with strait backs, and with the body in front laid in plaits from the top, and these are sometimes carried down the whole length of the skirt, which flies open; though the greater part are closed by a row of buttons set very close together. Pelerines, whether formed of ribbons, or in muslin, are very general; but have continually something new in the manner of their being cut or shaped: large scallops, when the pelerine is of muslin are trimmed with a full plaiting of fine net; and in this manner are trimmed with triple falling collar. Some hats of white striped gauze have the brims puckered on each side; the puckerings separated by narrow stripes of straw, and these straw stripes trim the ribbons round the crown. Two narrow scarfs serve for lappets, and are trimmed round with a plaiting of narrow net; the ends terminate by a very full tuft of straw-coloured silk.

White dresses, either in cambric or muslin, and a few gowns of lilac gros de Naples, composed the dress of that small number of females who were present at the last sitting of the Academy of les Belles Lettres. The white dresses were made en blouse, and those of gros de Naples, had a corsage of drapery, and the sleeves ornamented with plaitings of silk, pinked. Large bouquets placed over the ear were the ornaments on leghorn hats; the flowers are lightly spread out; composed of sweet peas, mignionet, honey-suckles, and syringoes. When a rose is full blown it is worn alone. Some fashionists place, in a strait line, three flat feathers, one of which, that is, the middle one, surpasses the others in height. These feathers are worn instead of flowers: and are seen on some leghorn hats. Two rows of full honey-comb trimming are placed at the edge of bonnets made of gros de Naples, only one of these rows is the same colour as the bonnet.

There are some very beautiful leghorn hats, ornamented with two white feathers, which are elevated on each side, and joining at the top form an arch; at the base of each feather is a cockade of ribbon. Some young persons wear their leghorn hats quite round, and very large, but slightly turned up all round, and these are called Auvergnat hats because they are bordered all round with narrow black velvet, and a black velvet band incircles the crown, fastened with a polished steel buckle. The brims of gauze hats are very shallow; three bias folds of satin or gros de Naples are placed round the crown, and between each is a bouillon of … of different colour to the hat; the flowers that complete the trimming are small daisies, or pinks with ears of ripe corn. A cockade … ends fringed, placed on one side and serv… fastening to a plume of marabouts, forms a … ornament on all white hats; the marabout … above the crowns. They give the name of … Mazurier, to a rose which appears to be … four or five places; this is worn on those hats that are in imitation of straw; it is surrounded by a great number of buds. Bonnets are trimmed with chicoree the same colour as the … sometimes the crown is quartered like a … tied with a fichu en marmotte. In undress, the favourite colour for young persons is the … ; married ladies, blue; chequers are the favourite figures on silks, very small. The form of pelisses, buttoning down the front, with two pelerine capes, is so general, that even children wear them. With these pelisses, there is usually … round collar of embroidered muslin. Many fashionables wear Organdy blouses emrboidered in … over bright rose colour, jonquil, turquoise stone, and even lilac; the colour of these under … sets off the embroidery which is between each fold. A belt a la Leonide, in sarsnet ribbon … dispensibly requisite with an Organdy dress.

Amongst the fashionable jewellery, must be … heads in relief, in the antique style, except Vesuvian lava. The colour of this lava … with dead gold. These heads are used as … girdles, necklaces, and bracelets.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to October 1824

Back to August 1824

Newest London and Paris Fashions for August 1824

Sea-Side Dress

SEA-SIDE DRESS

Dress of levantine or gros de Naples, of a pistachio colour, with five broad folds in bias, across the border, each headed by a narrow silk cordon of a beautiful rose colour; the corsage made a la vierge, with falling divided cape, narrow, and elegantly pointed at the corners, of the same material as the dress. French long sleeves, en gigot; the part from the wrist to the elbow, sitting close to the arm, and confined by bands corded with rose colour. The waist incircled by a band, the same material as the dress, bound with a narrow rouleau of rose coloured satin, with a rosette in front. Fine muslin petticoat trimmed with Urling’s lace. Hat of pink gros de Naples, the crown ornamented with satin, in treillage work, and full blown roses with foliage on the summit. Lappets to the hat of rose gauze, in bias. Kid shoes and gloves.

Evening Dress

EVENING DRESS

Dress of white gauze lisse, with superb border en treillage, of the lightest shade of rose colour, each reseau edged with narrow silver cordon. The corsage made plain, beautifully marking out the contour, with a trimming round the bust to correspond with that of the skirt. – Mancherons of treillage work, uniting with the ornament round the bust. – Rich ceinture of a delicate pink silver gauze, placed on the left side. Sicilian hat of rose transparent net edged with silver. Feathers shaded with pink. The hair arranged in full curls, (on each side of the face) on which are seen a few white roses slightly intermingled with blond. Ear-rings, necklace and armlets of pearls.

FASHIONS FOR AUGUST.

Already do some of our fashionable summer retreats begin to recieve a few of those distinguished individuals belonging to the high and polished life, for whom, as the constant, and liberal patronesses of every art, the ministers of taste and fashion, are sedulously employing their carious talents, in adding to beauty by those graceful and well made garments, that give additional attraction to the contours of a fine female form; and in setting off the charms of a fasinating countenance by elegant and becoming head-dresses, which the artificial florist embellishes by the well imitated treasures of the garden, or, over which the plumassier teaches the … the feathered tribes to wave in graceful …

The various watering places begin … fill; and, this month, when the season … borough generally begins, it is expected … recieve some of our most wealth and … families to that place of fahsionable … chosen emissaries will follow where fashion … and our usual correspondents will not be … affording us every intelligence from all the … haunts of the modish world.

The bonnets in preparation for this month are peculiarly tasteful and elegant; we shall … a few for the notice of our fair readers; one is a beautiful corn flower blue of figured gros de Naples, but it is a shade lighter than the corn flower blue that is made use of in gowns or pelisses. The bonnet is lined with white and crowned with … of blue marabout feathers: the bonnet is … ornamented with white satin, and its lappets are composed of blue satin ribbon and tulle; … is cut in bias folds; all the ornaments on this … independant of the feathers, are extremely whimsical. A very beautiful carriage bonnet is … and is made of white stiffened tulle. It is ornamented on one side, with small white fanoy flowers … in stripes; the crown is trimmed with … edged with pink floize silk trimming and … en dents de loups; the interstices filled in full blown roses, and crowned with a superb … pink marabouts. A pink carriage hat is a charming head dress for a young and … female; it is of gros de Naples, with a full … ornament of broad blond, placed underneath … whence a rose bud is seen lying on the … hat is ornamented with pink gauze, roses, and lily of the valley.

A favourite home cornette is of fine blond … satin, beautifully ornamented with small … of flowers on each side: just over the te… each side. are two ornaments, in white satin, representing cornucopias, from whence peep convolvulus, rosebuds, and lillies of the valley. All the …nettes are particularly beautiful, and vary … in the richness of their materials, and the … of their ornaments, that they are fit for every … day, though, certainly, most appropriate … costume: the flowers that adorn them are …

Turbans seem much on the decline, elegant hats have taken their place, and are more appropriate to the summer, when so much time is spent in the viranda, or the garden summer pavillion; for fetes champetres there is no head-dress so truly classical: those of peach blossom satin, sprinkled with small pearls, and crowned with white feathers, are to be preferred to those that are all white.

There is but little difference in the make of the dresses since last month; the most recent novelty that we have seen, is a beautiful Polish robe dress of gros de Naples; the colour a lovely pink; the body is only partially low, and is made a la Vierge; the sleeves are short and very full, with slashes filled in with puckerings of the same material as the dress, and these puckerings are surrounded each by blond trimming. A tucker of blond stands up all round the bust. The usual rouleau ornament on the Polish robe, that seems to form the wrapping part of the skirt, and that all round the border, consists of rows formed of a kind of double rouleau of pink satin, separated in the middle by narrow silk cordon; the rich and beautiful effect of this trimming cannot be described. The sleeves of white muslin dresses for dishabille, are made en blouse, and the borders of the skirts are ornamented with flounces, set on rather scantily, and enriched with beautifully raised embroidery; the scallops, at the edge of the flounces, are worked in light and open kind of embroidery, a row of which is also introduced between each flounce. Dresses of gros de Naples continue to be trimmed at the border with bias folds like tucks.

It is expected that pelisses of fine India muslin, lined with light coloured sarcenet, will be much worn while the warm weather lasts. The variety of taste, at present, shews itself in adopting a greater mixture of colours than we have for some time witnessed; and there is also a feature of fashion less decided than we could wish; as those who have not taste or elegance, obtrude the heterogeneous mixture of discordant colours on the eye of refinement and delicacy, and the tawdry lover of finery consoles herself, in all the hues of the rainbow, at once, that she may wear anything now, for anything is the fashion. The tasteful lady, however, is never conspicuous, and is only distinguished by the sterling materials of the different articles of her attire, and the elegance and novelty of their make: she wears, as her out door costume, the beautiful petticoat of fine India muslin, embroidered magnificently, and finished at the hem with fine lace; and over that is the spencer or pelisse of the most beautiful light summer colours, generally of gros de Naples. White satin spencers, it is believed, will be worn for morning visits of ceremony, and dress carriage airings; they are a chaste and elegant article of dress, and admit a variety of colours in the bonnet, &c. worn with them.

The colours most in requisition, are, barberry-leaf-green, canary yellow, corn-flower-blue and pisachio. Pink and etherial blue, as is usual in the summer months, are universally in favour.

PARISIAN FASHIONS FROM A VARIETY OF ORIGINAL AND AUTHENTIC SOURCES

At the ball of St Maur, there were Organdy blouses, worked in a feather pattern between the bias folds round the border. The most elegant head-dresses were hats of white chip, surmounted with red poppies, or plumes. The ladies had on pointed handkerchiefs of white lace, which they kept on all the time they danced.

Bonnets of gros de Naples become daily more the mode; those of pale blue are ornamented with a very large rosette of white satin, which is placed on the top of the crown; those bonnets that are white, are lined with camel’s hair yellow, and trimmed with pinked silk, en chicoree (that is like the curled leaves of endive) the same colour as the lining, and with blond.

On fine leghorn hats are seen bunches of pinks and red poppies, and green and black poppies.

There are some hats of white gros de Naples with the brims as large as those of straw; their trimming consists of a large rosette and a branch of honey-suckles, a gold wheat-sheaf, or some sweet peas.

There are some fashionists who cover the crowns of their white chip bonnets with a net a l’Espagnole, which is formed of small meshes in crepe lisse, blue and white; the point of the net hangs down on one side, and terminates by a tuft of silk or an acorn of lace work.

The lappets of some morning caps are of ribbon chequered with blue on white: they cross under the chin, and then form a bow on the summit of the head.

Cambric pelisses button before, and are reckoned very elegant; the sleeves are composed of rows of clear and thick muslin, alternatively disposed en chevrons; sometimes these chevrons are double, two and two, and then the clear muslin is let in. Two or three pelerine capes finish the pelisse.

At the crowded audience for the benefit of Madame Theodore, there were seen many leghorn hats, ornamented with three, and some with five … feathers; they were flat, and towered … the other. At the base of these feathers … double rosette of white sarsnet ribbon. … very small dress bonnets, and dress hats … in gauze, in crape gauffree, or in crepe lisse, … they were ornamented with flowers; the … favour were roses in full bouquets, with … branch of sweet peas; the full blown roses as well as the buds, fell over the brim, nearly … edge, while the branch of sweet peas was … round the crown. There were very few … only were dressed in their own hair; there were two or three head-dresses a la neige.

Long sleeves were almost universal, clear and puffed out, with … bands worked in feather stitch. On clear muslin dresses, are worn fichus of the same material, wich large square notches round the border.

D … striped shot silks of two colours strikingly … such as Evelina blue and the colour of the marshmallow blossom, are much in favour.

… green ribbon on white chip hats, and … ribbons of the same colour, forming a … the bosom, the ends concealed under a sash of the same.

All the belts are a la Leonide, the … either of gold or polished steel; at the … blouses, and other dresses that have the sleeves en gigot, a small button in gold open work, completes the wristband.

Blue continues the most appro… colour. At some milliners are to be seen … walnut-tree coloured sarcenet, bordered … honeycomb trimming, of walnut tree and … the same trimming is used on straw coloured … nets, where the honeycomb is alternately … colour, or Evelina blue.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to September 1824

Back to July 1824

Newest London and Paris Fashions for July 1824

Evening Dress

EVENING DRESS

Polish robe of lilac gros de Naples; the petticoat enriched at the border, with a full, and broad puckering of crape of the same colour, on which are laid flowers of lilac satin, representing the Iris, or purple fleur de lis. The tunique part, a la polonaise, trimmed with three rows of bias folds, each fold headed by a narrow rouleau. The sleeves short and full, and ornamented on the outside of the arm with one outspread Iris. The corsage made plain, with Bouffont drapery of lilac crape at the bust, confined in the centre by a white antique ornament, and near to the hollow of each arm by a white fleur de lis. A lilac belt with narrow white blond on each side, simply encircling the waist, in which belt is stuck a fan, with the outside sticks exquisitely wrought in filigree gold. A drapery of lilac gauze and silver lama, beautifully twisted, round the hair with a rosette on the left side, the ends lightly fringed with silver. Ear-rings and necklace of amethysts, or rubies, set in gold. Bracelets of gold filigree worn over the gloves, and fastened with one large ruby or amethyst, to suit the necklace and ear-rings. White satin sandal slippers.

Ball Dress, or Grand Full Party Costume

BALL DRESS, OR GRAND FULL DRESS PARTY COSTUME

Dress of tulle over white satin, with double rouleaux stripes of satin in bias down the skirt. Border consisting of a broad puckering of tulle or gauze, on which are laid large leaves of satin edged by rouleaux, and in the centre of each a blue flower; two rouleaux of satin above this border, on which are full and spiral bouquets, richly clustered, of the convolvulus. Corsage of white satin, trimmed across with blond. The hair drest short at the ears, and arranged on each side of the face in clustered curls, and at the summit of the head, inclining towards the right side, in long bows; the same side ornamented with a diadem of pearls and precious gems, and the hair elegantly entwined with a drapery of celestial blue gauze, and a plumage of white feathers on the left side. Ear-rings and bracelets of diamonds. A necklace a l’Egyptienne, forming a serpent of gold, with the tail in its mouth; the eyes of the reptile of brilliants. Regal mantle cloak of celestial blue gros de Naples, finished beautifully, with cape and trimming of swan’s-down; the cloak fastened with silver chain, cordon, and tassels. White satin sandal slippers.

FASHIONS IN PREPARATION FOR JULY, 1824

Every artist employed in the various articles of decoration for female beauty, is now sedulously occupied in giving the most elegant versatility to the suggestions of taste, and imparting to them that splendour, so requisite to be observed amongst the titled, wealthy, and distinguished assemblage that now graces our metropolis.

The carriage bonnets are peculiarly beautiful and becoming; one, in particular, struck us by the ch … ciation of its colours, and the elegance of its fo … of lemon-coloured crape, lined and ornamented w … the crown is adorned in drapery, aux fers d … with pink fancy flowers of unrivalled delicacy … each interstice. A white satin hat is also well a … the morning exhibitions, or paying carriage … visits; it is a la Reine Marguerite, the whi … pearl colour kind, and is finished round the crown with gauze puffs edged with blond and white satin … a quilling of blond, so contrived as to lie on … gives the appearance of a cap under this tasteful … white crape bonnet, also, is expected to be much … this month, for the carriage: round the crown are … of gauze, interspersed with branches of lilac, … the edge of the brim are lighter puffings, between … which are little sprigs of lilac. Hats are in grea … they are in the shape of La Reine Marguerite …

The pelisses and spencers remain, at present, the same as last month; some slight innovations have been made in the latter, which we cannot regard as … ments; some of these lace behind, and thereby … the effect of an article so useful and appropriate …mer costume, especially for the young; the b… ill, and the bust is, by no means, improved; oth… kind of fichu, of the same material as the spencer, through which the arms are slipped, and the point before and behind fasten under the belt; we must mention the incongruities of fashion as well as her beauties; it … to shew the infatuation of many members in London who prefer the skill of French dress-makers to their own countrywomen: we speak this from … we are well assured these changes in the spen… …finitely for the worse, are fabrications of a foreig…

The summer pelisses for this month merit an … description. They are of the most tender and … colours; the one we saw, was not quite finished, but when completed, it will certainly be one of the most elegant out-door articles that ever came from the hands of an English Marchande de Modes. The colour was the beautiful blooming tint of the summer rose … down the sides in front, is an ornament that re… long ostrich plume; the feather prat is formed of narrow satin rouleaux, most exquisitely wrought, all done in a frame; the pipe part, up the centre of the feather, is formed of one well-wadded rouleau; … bust, and mancherons, are finished in a light, elegant, and truly correspondent style

Small dress hats are worn at the opera and at parties, with indented brims, and white plumage … over them; from the summit of the crown, hangs, on one side, a singular, but yet what forms a very beautiful ornament; it is a bunch of capsicums, made of white satin, tipped with silver; the brim of the hat is also edged with silver cordon; but this becoming head-dress looks best when finished with pearls. The toques a la neige, discovering the hair between in open work of intrinsic gems, are every way calculated for full dress; they are rather lofty and bind across the forehead, but not too low: their height is added to, by a fine plumage of white feathers; we saw two of these truly dignified head-dresses, finished for ladies who class amongst the highest order: one was composed of pearls and emeralds, which latter gem represented a row of green foliage on the summit of the edifice; the other was of Turquoise stones and pearls; but these, instead of being wrought into foliage, represented flowers. The Ceres turban is another unique and elegant head-dress; it is of white satin, entwined with pearls, and is ornamented with Marabout feathers, interspersed with ears of corn of a bright geranium colour, and others of gold. On the right side, just over the ear, are two broad leaves of white satin, one leaf standing up, the other depending; these are fastened by two gold ornaments, representing spears, which have each an oval head of coral and gold. The Cornette a la Nymph, is a charming head-dress for receiving friends at home; it is of tulle and blond, with a wreath of delicate blush roses: some of these home head-dresses, have a small ornament on the summit of the crown, like a little hat a l’Arcadie. Coloured gauze caps, with white blond next to the face, and lightly ornamented with flowers of suitable colours, are much in favour for home costume.

Amongst the new silk dresses, the greatest novelty in the manner of their trimming, is with a border of divided points, forming a kind of foliage, upright and reversed; the division in the middle of this ornament is fluted satin, put on en limacon: this dress was made low, and was of corn-flower blue; with it was worn a most elegant fichu of blond, with an indented ornament falling back, richly trimmed with white satin rouleaux and blond; each indenting confined by satin strap rings, of close and very narrow rouleaux. Another dress was of Pistachio colour, and was ornamented with antique rosaces; both these dresses were of gros de Naples. The morning dresses are of printed muslin, which is at present, more in favour that white; we speak merely of dejeune costume; silks are worn at all hours of the day, and India muslins, beautifully embroidered or trimmed with lace, are worn with spencers and pelisses, for white is indispensably requisite for those envelopes.

Ball dresses are superbly bordered with flowers, either in coloured beads, pearls, or polished steel, relieved by a splendid embroidery in coloured ribbon-work, the beautiful red lilac colour of the marshmallow blossom. When the tulle is embroidered with pearls, the corsage worn with it renders it a most chaste and beautiful attire. This corsage is of white satin, made in front a la Grecque. The part that represents the robings is open, and has tulle let in, edged round with pearls, which are relieved by the openings being edged with pink satin: on each side of these, next the front of the stomacher, is an embroidery in pearls, representing the Scotch thistle. The sleeves are of tulle, with straps to answer the part of the stomacher; the body is finished round the bosom with net, en tire bouchons, entwined with pearls.

The most approved colours are the rose of June, Pistachio, lemon colour, and lilac.

PARISIAN FASHIONS FROM A VARIETY OF ORIGINAL AND AUTHENTIC SOURCES

Several ladies who set the fashions, and young persons, wear fichus a la neige. The denomination of these fichus took its rise from Madame Pradher, in the third act of La Neige, where she wears a fichu-pelerine of muslin, cut all around in long and sharp points.

In the morning, in neglige, our fashionables were also pelisses a la Neige; these are of muslin, trimmed with lace down the sides in front, and round the border. The sleeves of these pelisses are made en blouse, and trimmed with lace at the wrist.

At the theatre Buffs, the first representation of Ricciard… …e Zoraide, several fashionables wore turbans, the cauls of which were silver brocade, and the rouleau or turban part of striped rose-coloured gauze; the plaits of the turban were laid very regularly. The hair elegantly arranged, was also seen, with a drapery of white or ponceau, for ornament, forming a diadem in front, and floating on each side of the head and shoulders, like the lappets flying loose, belonging to caps or bonnets.

Blouse dresses of India muslin have five rows of embroidery, representing the blossoms of the tree of Judea, and four bias folds; on the body are three rows of embroidery

Among the new materials for dresses, are moss muslins and Ourika muslin dresses, in open work; these light articles are particularly appropriate for blouses. All the Summer dresses except those of worked silk, are made in the blouse form; however, they begin to leave off the dull uniformity of large plaits, and the trimmings of these dresses vary like others. We have remarked several which were trimmed with three narrow flounces, set on upside down: the falling part of the flounce standing up, with the plaits tacked to prevent their falling. The bands that formed these flounces, were cut in bias, and doubled. The greater part of printed muslins are striped, as are the slight summer silks.

Hats are of striped gauze, rose-colour, lilac and white: round the crown is a puffing of satin ribbon; which being at some distance from the brim, and bending towards the border, appears like open basket work. We have seen a pretty hat of white striped gauze, surrounded with thin puffing in lilac. On one side was placed a branch of lilac, on the other a bow of lilac satin ribbon, the ends of which hung three inches over the brim of the hat. This fashion is very general. The strings fasten on one side and form a bow.

Some hats of rice straw are in the shape of a jockey cap; about the crown, which is entirely round, are placed rouleaus of satin, at equal distances.

At a performance given at the theatre de la Porta St. Martin, for the relief of the indigent, there were a great many hats of white chip. Some of these hats were crowned with a plume of white curled feathers. Others were bound with ribbon of a very conspicuous colour; either yellow, blue, or poncceau, with rows of the same coloured ribbon round the crown, and feathers of the same colour. Several hats of white Gros de Naples. camel’s hair brown, or tree of Judea, had the crowns made lower on one side than the other; they were ornamented with a very large cockade of pinked silk, placed in front. Leghorn hats were ornamented with white and red roses. Ladies who wore the pilgrim’s hat, in straw, very large, wore their hair arranged a l’Enfant: round the crown was only a simple white satin ribbon.

Spencers of silk are much worn for walking; they are many of them made in the blouse style, both in front and at the back.

Though blue is the favourite colour for riding-habits, yet there are several ladies who choose to distinguish themselves by more conspicuous colours. At the beginning of the month, a habit was remarked in the Bois de Boulofne, the petticoat of which was black, and the body was white; another lady had a nankeen petticoat, with a red body.

The prevailing fashion is a white gauze veil, fastened round the crown of the hat, and thrown back. White cotton and chip hats, or those of rice straw, have besides flowers and ribbons, rouleaux, formed by what they call levees (a technical term) made of the same material as the hat. The pilgrim’s hat, of Leghorn, is so immensely large, that the brim entirely covers the back and shoulders: a rosette of very broad ribbon, the colour a mahogany brown, walnut colour, or tree of Judea, is placed on the left side of these hats; and the puffs of the rosette are, at least, eighteen inches long. On some hats, instead of a rosette, is an aigrette, composed of seven or eight stalks or sprays, that resemble the quills of a porcupine. These stalks are striped, small as they are, with black and red, or rose colour and black, ethereal blue and white, or white and rose colour, emerald green and white, mahogany brown and white, blue and white, and jonquil and white. The small early cinnamon rose, yellow roses, and very large Provence roses are much in fashion. The dresses, at least ninety-nine out of a hundred, have all corsages a la Blouse; the sleeves very full, the upper part enormously so, two or three pelerine capes, and trimmed with four or five rows of bias folds, or flat tucks.

Dresses for the evening are made of Chinese crape, with flowers like those on the Cachemire shawls; they are trimmed with flutings bound with narrow ribbon, called a la Bayadere, which name is given to all colours in crape.

The most famous Marchandes de Modes have made some white hats of Gros de Naples, which have round the crown, three bias folds of tulle gauze, or crepe lisse, (called stuff by the French). These folds are fastened by three buckles. There are also hats of watered silk, with … brims, trimmed with puckerings and bouillons … kind of hats are ornamented with marabouts or curled ostrich feathers. The new hats of split … the form of a man’s hat, but they are entirely … the brim is bent down over the forehead and beh … cockade of white ribbon, cut in coxcombs, … ornament.

The fashionists place on their fine leghorn hats ,,, which they entwine with a band of straw, about … in breadth: this band is turned round and round, and sometimes is carried even to the summit. … hats of white chip, have, round the crown and … puffs of Gros de Naples or of ribbon, edged … Beneath one side of the brim, a band, the same … forms three buckles, which are also edged … These hats are surmounted by a plume of feather … together.

Walnut-tree brown, is a colour just come in. We have seen some hats of this colour, in Gros de Naples: they were trimmed with bows and puffings … brown. Bonnets of white crape, and others of … coloured crape, or lilac, have such large brims, … and lower part of the face are entirely concealed … the binding that borders them, is a curtain … these bonnets are ornamented with the flowers … balls, or with yellow roses.

Several dress-makers make use of coloured … blouses, on which are printed bouquets of flowers … ing to the light in which they are placed, to appear either pink, lilac, or blue: they are named … dupeuses (decievers).

Amongst the embroidery in colours, may be … the American berry. These berries, which are red, have, at one end, a black spot; the berries are embroidered on a line, but separate from each other … lines are divided by bias folds.

There are collars a la Chevaliere, which have … very decidedly marked out. Some collars are of … muslin, with a letting-in of lace; these are … six points. At the public spectacles, some very … ladies have been seen, with two broad ribb … striking colours, sewn together, and crossed … necks, at the chest from whence they spread … left, like straps, the ends being concealed under…

Ipsiboe muslins prevail for blouses, Gros … a dark shade for dress gowns; the figure … striped crosswise, shaded or Scotch plaids: … much esteemed in half dress, Almazi half … are worn as a sautoir, over the gown; but … shawls. or sometimes black, of Cyprus or … are beautifully soft: they are embroidered … patterns of large flowers, with a medallion in the … shawl, surrounded with a border.

The skirts of blouses are laid in small plai … on the frills of men’s shirts.

Gauze ribbons, figured in a pattern of large … have succeeded to the plaid ribbons, lately … vogue.

Hats of split staw are yet worn in the round … Bolivar; there are some of this shape in Spa… vary the sameness of this fashion, which last year had become general, many of these straw hats are of the most whimsical form; we have seen some, the brims of which were formed of large flutings, made of Sparterie.

White chip hats are the reigning mode; the crowns are generally ornamented with a wreath of moss-rosses; and a but of the moss-rose is placed in front, on the brim. Some white chip hats have marabouts placed on them, in a spiral manner, and under the brim, on one side, which is slightly lifted up, is placed a little tuft of marabouts; instead of these kind of feathers, it is sometimes those of the ostrich, well curled, and of three different colours. Hats of white Gros de Naples, generally white, striped with mahogany brown, and this striped silk also lines the hat.

A ribbon, which is now very fashionable, either for hats, bracers, strings, sashes, &c., is of a colour called the flame of Mount Vesuvius. A kind of sautoir is made of this ribbon, when very broad; it is pointed behind, the ends crossed over the breast, and brought under the sash.

Almost all the hats are bouillones with crape lisse, gaufree. Upon the crown is a star, a cross, or a rosette of satin edged with blonde: this ornament is repeated, in miniature, under each side of the brim.

White bonnets of sarsanet, or of Gros de Naples, are ornamented with a kind of honey-comb trimming of myrtle-green, lilac, or other fashionable colours.

The trimming on Barege dresses, that are shot, and that of striped lawn, the stripes coloured and shaded, have five bias folds, put on archwise, and forming draperies, sustained by buttons of the same material as the dress; three bias folds are sometimes repeated three times, and separated by a narrow flounce, caught up under the third bias.

With a pelisse of Gros de Naples, with a Pelerine cape, a scarf is never worn, but a collar falling over, is adopted, of embroidered tulle, and a scarf of Cashemire is hung over the arm. The favourite colour in Gros de Naples is a dark walnut-tree brown.

GENTLEMEN’S FASHIONS

Last year, it was the reigning mode to go in the same dress to a marriage as to a funeral; so much was black the order of the day. It is not so now; a man newly married should wear a blue coat, with gilt buttons, a quilted under waistcoat, or one of white velvet; small-clothes of black kersey-mere; silk stockings, with open clocks; shoes and buckles; his shirt friled and ruffled, with lace laid in plaits like those of cambric; a muslin cravat, tied in the English manner, with the ends floating, fastened by a large diamond pin.

The tailors now make the great coats very full next to the top of the arm, and tapering off scantier to the waist; (this is the kind of sleeve that is called en gigot), but the gentlemens’ sleeves are not so full as those worn by the ladies. The collar is hollowed out in the English fashion, and falls forming a kind of shawl.

There are now to be seen many boots and shoes of black deer’s leather.

Violet is now the prevailing colour; coats, great coats, pantaloons, under waistcoats. In the mean time componium colour, or auricular brown, is fashionable for great coats among men of ton; white satin under waistcoats, quilted … diamonds; they are also worn entolinette, in light grey, with very narrow stripes of pale pink. The form of gilets, or under waistcoats, is that of a shawl, and both sides alike.

The pantaloons form a gaiter, and are hollowed out at the ankle, but almost imperceptibly. Linen, with satin stripes, is the newest article for pantaloons. White beaver hats begin to be worn.

The riding-dress of a gentleman is green, with gilt buttons, velvet collar, and the coat cut like a hunting-dress. The hats are round, and have low growns and narrow brims: those who are addicted to anglomania, wear the crown rather pointed, and the brims of a moderate size.

Venetian pantaloons are much admired, they are of woollen manufacture, and are striped with the same colour.

Grey beaver hats, silk beaver, or straw, are worn in the morning.

Boots, with white pantaloons, loose, and not fastened under the foot; with these, shoes are often preferred.

Very few pantaloons of nankeen, but ticking and striped cotton, the ground white, and the satin stripes very narrow, generally blue or yellow, with a little cloud of lilac.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to August 1824

Back to June 1824

Newest London and Paris Fashions for June 1824

Grand Costume, or Reception Dress

GRAND COSTUME, OF RECEPTION DRESS.

Grecian robe of pink satin, with white facings down the skirt, ornamented with silver frivolite bouillon, and superb silver tassels; round the border of the robe, a rich bouillon of silver frivolite covers the hem, and is surmounted by a row of white marabout feather trimming, the plumes separate and upright. The petticoat is of white tulle, with four rows of puckering of the same material; the puckers confined by diamond work of silver frivolite. The corsage is of the same material as the robe, and is an improvement on the Gallo-Greek style; the antique robings being formed of rouleaux of pink satin and blond; sleeves to correspond. Hans Holbein toque of white satin and blond, studded with silver, and surmounted by a rich plume of ostrich feathers in different directions. Earrings, necklace, and bracelets of diamonds.

Spanish Ball Dress

SPANISH BALL DRESS.

An Asturias robe of transparent net, faced with cerulean blue, the sides of the robe embroidered in floss silk, or applique, with white regal ornaments a la Bourbon – bows terminated with silver aiguillettes, fasten the robe in front; a rich white satin petticoat trimmed round with a ruche of tulle. The body of the robe is tastefully arranged with a rich Vandyke blond-lace, which terminates at the waist. Sleeves of tulle made tight to the arm, surmounted by a short sleeve of blue and white satin in Moorish indentings – sleeves slashed round the arm with blue satin, and Spanish satin cuffs. An Andalusian toque composed of blue satin and white tulle corded with silver, and a silver net, forming one side of the head-dress; ostrich feathers, a l’Espagnole — sandal slippers of white satin.

PREVAILING FASHIONS THE LATTER END OF MAY, AND THOSE IN PREPARATION FOR JUNE, 1824

In addition to our numerous resources, we have been indulged with the inspection of several very elegant articles of female attire, by one of the most approved Marchande de Modes at the Court end of the town, whose taste has long been regarded by the greater part of the nobility and gentry, as the criterion of fashion, and classic elegance.

The small Parisian mob or cornette, either of fine lace or blond, according to the time of day, yet reigns the favourite head dress for in-door costume. These little tasteful coeffures are remarkable for the beautiful flowers with which they are surmounted; the half wreaths are composed of the most choice species of the frutrix, the single holly-oak blossom, and the small Guelder rose: when the queen of the parterre, the rich Provence rose is in the wreath, there are seldom any other kind of flowers, and the damask rose has only its deep tints relieved by sprigs of Portugal laurel, clematis, jessamine, or myrtle blossoms.

The turbans for evening dress are very costly; one in particular, light as well as rich, excites universal admiration: it is of tulle, ornamented all over in treillage work of narrow white satin on which is a row of … puffing, en coquilles, of white satin, forms … edged with ruby-colour, and in the centre, over head, is a large star, formed of Glauvina pins. … turban, of the coronet kind, is elegantly chaste; … entirely of white satin, profusely trimmed with pearls … the coronet part, depend pear pearls, of immens … a plume of short Marabout feathers, plays above; any long plumage would obscure the intrinsic appeal of a head-dress that can only be worn by a lady of great wealth or high rank. The most superb of them we have yet seen, has just been finished for a lady, of the latter description it is of peach-coloured tulle, with satin ornaments in stripes, underneath, adorned with pearls a l’antique; in order to display these ornaments the hat stands off very much from the face; the crown profusely scattered over with pearls and superb … white ostrich feathers, with a small plume of … at their base, finish this magnificent, and novel head dress.

Fancy, ever on the alert to bring out something new, produced a very curious and whimsical head-dress, which, nevertheless, wears on its form the stamp of high … to a pretty face, and where there is to be found … distinguee, indicative of true style, it can only be becoming. It has the appearance of a triple hat toque, the … of pale pink satin, turned up and down in various ways and united, in a manner, by a transparent caul of tulle: about and underneath the carious little … white Marabout feathers; these are lightly and … disposed, and the whole forms a unique and … head-dress for the opera.

A dress of coloured Chinese crape, of a dark … seems much in favour with ladys of rank, either as … costume, or a carriage out-door dress. It is made … high, is faced down the front with satin the … robe, and Brandenburghs, with splendid tassells … the bust, and are continued on each side of … down to the feet; a superb lace colerette finishes … throat. A dress of Canary yellow gros de Naples is much worn at social dinner parties; the body is … plain and simple, a la Vierge, and the sleeves … with but a slight fulness in the mancherons; the … enriched by a beautiful ornament of pluche de soie in bias stripes of two different colours, purple and … about two shades darker than the dress; the purple in a light colour, and that, rather of the …

Muslin and cambric petticoats, of the most exquisite embroidery, are now much in request, with pelisses in gros de Naples, either plain or figured; the latter prevail most in pelisses, but spencers, of the most … and novel kind, are chiefly of plain silks, and better for the elegant manner in which they are now ornamented. We shall only mention two we have seen, just … for ladies who rank high in fashionable life. … gros de Naples, the colour a beautiful pink; it is … at the bust, with numerous straps, entwined in each other, and forming a treillage work, that appears to stand out, distinct from the plain part; but it should be seen to be properly appreciated; the mancherons are finished in the same manner; and the trimming at the wrists corresponds, but more lightly and simply. The other spencer was of a fine and etherial blue; and the bust was ornamented with embossed vine leaves, wrought about with tendrills, in brocade embroidery, executed in the most exquisite manner.

The Indian or Japanese rose-red, for pelisses, was still in favour the latter end of May; becoming as it is to almost every complexion, it seems, however, ill-suited to the refulgency of a summer’s sun; it is still seen on very distinguished females, but will, no doubt, very soon be laid aside; the pelisses of gros de Naples, of this colour, are ornamneted with a representation of oriental foliage, worked in narrow rouleaux, across the bust and down each side in front, and give to this out-door envelope a truly classical appearance: the beautiful light and cheerful colours for summer, require but little trimming, and what they have, is extremely simple: the diversity of ornament seems most displayed across the bust and at the mancherons: the collars chiefly stand up and turn down again; but this rule is not without exception; some collars are broad, pointed perceptibly at each corner, and fall over the shoulders. The Cachemire shawls have no longer white grounds; the favourite colours for the ground-work are bright gold-colour, or olive green; the borders are finely variegated, and they are all of the square kind.

A favourite material for carriage bonnets is white tulle over stiffened net: one we find particularly elegant; it is ornamented with a full half-wreath of flowers, representing the Scotch thistle, and sprigs of Highland heath; and these delicate blossoms, as well as the thistles, are all made of feathers; to the flower of the thistle, this material gives a semblance that may be mistaken for nature. Figured gros de Naples bonnets are also much in request; they are of various colours, but when of pink, they are generally crowned with full bouquets of roses. A carriage dress-hat, for paying morning visits of ceremony, is of pink crepe lisse, with separate pink feathers of the Marabout playing beautifully over the front. Bonnets for morning exhibitions and the public promenades, are of gros de Naples; the favourite colour a light lavender-grey, lined with white; this bonnet is ornamented with blossoming branches of the mezereon.

We cannot forbear drawing the attention of the members of the fashionable world to the unrivalled excellency of the flowers made this season; art is so closely taught to imitate nature, that a superficial observer cannot distinguish them from the choicest treasures of the garden; they are formed of fine cambric, and some, where the texture and appearance of the flower will permit, are of feathers: there are flowers, that like a watch, require several different hands in their composition; the wealthy, therefore, by patronising this delightful art, while they adorn themselves with that ornament, the most appropriate to female beauty, are encouraging and aiding to support, the sons and daughters of ingenuity and industry.

The material chiefly admired for ball dresses, is of tulle with a broad border of fancy flowers, wrought in … beads: the corsages are light and generally … straps of white satin, edged with narrow rouleaux laid across the bust over tulle; blond ornamnet … added, and sometimes form the short sleeve, which is generally surmounted by a flower or trimming to … border on the skirt: where the ball is very splendid, … ladies in grande costume, the favourite trimming is … bullion, now called frivolite bouillon, from the novel manner in which it is twisted.

The colours most approved are pink, Canary yellow, lavender, and light lavender-grey.

PARISIAN FASHIONS FROM A VARIETY OF ORIGINAL AND AUTHENTIC SOURCES

“We have lost every thing, my dear friend,” said the youthful Emma, the moment I entered her dwelling last …day morning; “we have lost everything: except our nour.” — “To have invented the most graceful trimming for a dress, that could have appeared this spring,” replied … as I saw displayed, on a sofa, the pretty dress, intended to be figured away in at the Thuilleries, “and of which, we today, shall set the fashion; in effect, nothing can be more simple, nothing can be more elegant, although for these … first days, we have distinguished several dresses as remarkable for the brilliancy of their colours, as for their novelty. How much do robes of different colours, such as rose, blue, lilac, and yellow, predominate over white? But those colours are many of them shot; this pale lilac and iron-gray, become opal, and this seems the favourite trimming of the …. Canary yellow, with a slight tinge of pistachio, is called primrose. Ingenious effect of human skill! By the most innocent stratagems, the art is discovered of giving to former fashions all the charm of novelty.”

The corsage-blouse, (or drawn body,) is now formed of large flat plaits, which surrounding the waist, seem drawn together by the belt. The collars of pelisses are cut … points, and these points are edged with narrow fringe and puffed beading; at the front of the corsage are two or three flat plaits, which are carried down the length of the petticoat, leaving a space between them about two hadns in breadth; on each side of the last plait in front, are placed ribbons, of which are formed large bows, that are set at equal distances down the middle of the skirt.

Pelerines and coleretts are round, whether a la … (which is the name given to those collars which are slashed and bordered with plaiting of lace or muslin,) they are worn alike over high or low dresses. The sleeves are wide, and a number of little wristbands, very close to each other, …cend almost as high as the elbow. We counted more than twelve of these wristbands on a dress of opal-coloured Cachmire gauze, lined with slight silk of the same colour; the body of this elegant dress was in flat plaits; at the bottom of the petticoat, about a hand’s breadth apart, were three rows of double quilling, in gauze. There is every appearance of this being a favourite trimming this summer.

The greatest novelty are blouses of Florence silk or Marceline, with tucks, and a row of embroidery, in silk, between each tuck; the embroidery represents branches of blue-bells, and coquelicots, in wreaths.

Rice-straw is much in favour for hats, perhaps, because these hats are generally worn by very young or very pretty women. Their form is round, and this shape is the most fashionable, whether the hat is of gauze or gros de Naples. The various ways of ornamenting them is a difficult task to explain; we must first undertake to account for the versatility of taste, and the caprice of fashion. The Ipisboe hat is, indeed, original, whether we regard its shape or the whimsical association of its colour with its ribbons, or the three aigrettes, which surmount it, which are red, yellow, and black.

We have distinguished some beautiful hats of Canary yellow gauze, ornamented with full bouquets of blue-bells; these flowers are spread out in such a way, as to cover a great part of the crown in front, and some of them droop on one side, over the brim. We have remarked also, some hats of straw, or of gros de Naples, where a single flower, with a thousand leaves, is placed in front: this new flower gives to these hats an extreme elegance and grace. Some hats are adorned with all sorts of verdure, in flowers and foliage made of feathers, particularly four little pine-balls, and white thistles.

ANOTHER DESCRIPTION OF FASHIONS.

Except Leghorn hats, which they dare not cut away too much, on account of their value, there is scarce a hat that has any brim behind, and, indeed, very little at the sides; this brim neither stands up nor falls, so that the face remains discovered. The fashion being uniform, it is the ornament above and round the crown of these hats to which the chief attention is paid in our Magasins de Modes. Sometimes it is a corded ribbon, in large puffs, placed in bias, from the top of the crown to where the brim commences; sometimes round this crown, it is a pipe of ribbon, rolled in a spiral manner, with a fringe hanging from it. One of the most distinguished trimmings for a Leghorn hat, consists in a branch of the peach-tree, with its blossoms, and a few little peaches just formed: it is placed in front of the crown, and comes forward a little way on the brim. Some straw-hats are of a square form, and are broad in the brims. The trimmings on Sparterie, or open chip-hats, consist in cockle-shell puffings of taffety, edged with a stripe of Sparterie. Bonnets of taffety, and those of gros de Naples, either in white lilac, or myrtle-green, are trimmed with puckerings, and are as general as they were last year.

Light coloured spencers of gros de Naples are much worn; some are made with loose bodies, en blouse, and with very full sleeves; others with strait backs, like a riding-habit; some are ornamented with Brandenburghs, laced across, and have a falling collar. A muslin petticoat, with three bias folds at the border, is worn with spencers.

On blouses of Organdy silk, are seen rose-buds, with leaves of two shades of green; or, sometimes, purple lilacs, with foliage. Others are trimmed with double SS, and have sweet peas between the SS. The manner of placing the SS depends on taste; some are upright, others incline, others are cross-wise, and the sweet-peas are sometimes round, sometimes long. Green foliage, in embroidery, very often represents the wall-ivy.

From the Journal des Dames

The colours most admired for silks by the fashionables are American green, peacock’s-neck green, and the River Jordan; this latter colour is a dark grey. If a bonnet is of this colour, a plume of feathers float over it, the colour of the tree of Judea, or ribbons of that colour.

The first time L’Auberge Supposee was performed there was a very full audience at the Theatre Feydeau … elegant ladies wore white hats, ornamented with … of the acacia, or dress caps with heath in … hats were of cane. A Hungarian plime, made of … feathers, of rose colour, lilac, and white, formed … of some white hat made of cotton.

At the benefit of Madame Barroyer, at Les … a hat of white crape, trimmed with blond; the … square, and was formed of white satin ribbons; … feathers overshadowed the crown, and part of the … white chip hat was surmounted by a plume of … three colours, white, … and blue. There … turban-toques of Lyones silk, these were of … and worked in with gold.

White gowns are yet but little worn, either at the … or the promenades. B… silks, lawn, cirsakas… and printed muslins (principally checked) predominate.

Barege dresses are made in blouse; the sleeves … pelisses of jaconot muslin … of the bark of trees … or two pelerine capes ane are fastened with … from the top to the bottom.

Half-handkerchiefs of black lace have appeared since the warm weather came in. Silk scarfs also are worn … saca brown, or of marshmallow blossom colour. … are ornamented by a broad layer of yellow satin.

From another Number of the Journal des Dames

In the place of ribbons it is now the mode to … lappets of crape or or gauze to tie down the hats; … placed underneath the brim, are cut in bias, … ribbon, or trimmed with blond, and … rosette.

Some hats or white chip are worn turned up on one side; they are ornamented with a full plume of … feathers, or a bunch of early roses, and leaves … the form of a packet of feathers.

Hats of Sparterie (a material very much reser… willow) are trimmed with a very broad ribbon) of … brown. The fichu of Sparterie that ornaments th… these hats and the front is bound with ribbon. … are also ornamented, sometimes with blue gauze … a fan round the crown, and which serves to su… puffs of a rosette in front.

Several Leghorn hats are simply ornamented with a satin rosette, placed on one side, the ends of … fringed.

The crowns of transparent hats, either of gauze … are trimmed round the crown with crape in plaits; … of a horse-shoe. These hats are ornamented be… blue-bells.

On split straw hats large bouquets of various flowers are worn, interspersed with gauze and detached … yellow jasmine.

Little dress caps are ornamented with flowers … petals, and are black at the bottom of the cup, … a heart or a black point; these are called Ourika, and every mixture of red and black, or black and red, is called a l’Ourika.

Some straw bonnets have crowns that are higher on the right side than on the left.

The new dresses and pelisses, which have pele… have a collar formed of two rouleaux; there is … at the top of the sleeve.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onwards to July 1824

Newest London and Parisian Fashions for September 1838

Plate the First

An Assemblage of Fashionable Head-Dresses 

Plate the Second

PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.

Fig. 1. – Indian green gros de Naples robe, the corsage half-high, and the sleeves demi-large; the border is trimmed with four flounces, set on rather full, and cut in sharp dents; India muslin mantelet, trimmed with point de Paris, set on very full and surmounted by a rose-ribbon run through the brim. Drawn bonnet of white pou de soie, trimmed with white ribbon edged with green, and the interior of the brim ornamented with light gerbes of foliage.

EVENING DRESS.

Fig. 2. – Robe tablier of India muslin, over an under-dress of pale blue gros de Naples; the tablier is formed by a muslin bouillon, through which blue ribbon is run, and a row of lace is attached to it on one side; a similar trimming borders the skirt; a low square corsage, decorated en coeur, with folds, and a bouillon, upon which a knot of ribbon is laid on the shoulder; the sleeves are disposed in bouffants from the shoulder to the wrist. Tulle cap of the Babet form, decorated with lappets of the same, and blue ribbon.

PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.

Fig. 3. – Peignoir of rose-colour taffetas, the corsage is made up to the throat, and is trimmed, as is also the skirt, with Valenciennes lace; under-dress of jaeonut muslin, the border ornamented with entre deux of open work ; muslin mantelet of the shawl form, trimmed with rose-ribbon and lace. Hat of blue pou de soie, the crown trimmed with ribbons and ostrich feathers to correspond, the interior of the brim decorated with small pink flowers.


HALF-LENGTH FIGURES. – MORNING DRESSES.

  1. — Pelisse -robe of lilac gros de Naples. Cottage bonnet of pink pou de soie, trimmed with ribbons to correspond, and a lace drapery.
  2. — Muslin robe, embroidered in feather stitch. Round cap of tulle, trimmed with oiseau ribbons.
  3. — Green cashmere shawl, and drawn bonnet of pale pink gros de Naples.
Plate the Third

MORNING DRESS.

Fig. 1. — Striped gros de Naples pelisse-robe, the front of the skirt is fastened by ornaments of the same material of a novel form ; the corsage tight to the shape and descending a little in front, is trimmed with a full fall of lace ; the sleeves are very large at the lower part, and tightened into moderate bouffants at the top. Rice-straw hat, profusely trimmed with groseille ribbon and flowers.

MORNING VISITING DRESS.

Fig. 2. — India muslin robe; the border is trimmed with a flounce of the same material edged with Valenciennes lace, and surmounted by a bouillon; a high corsage, trimmed with a small round pelerine of English point lace ; sleeve a la Duchesse d’ Orleans. Italian straw hat, the interior of the brim decorated with a wreath of roses, and the crown ornamented with a bouquet of white ostrich feathers.

EVENING DRESS.

Fig. 3. — The robe is blue tulle, over pou de soie to correspond; the corsage is low, square, and draped in a very novel manner; the sleeve full in the centre, but with the fulness confined by rouleaus at bottom and top; the trimming of the skirt corresponds. Rice-straw hat; it is a chapeau camaro, decorated with marabouts, and small blue flowers.

FASHIONABLE MILLINERY.

  1. — A back-view of the hat of fig. 1.
  2. — Promenade bonnet of blue pou de soie, trimmed with ribbons to correspond, and a sprig of green foliage.
  3. — Half-dress bonnet of white pou de soie, trimmed with white ribbons and a sprig of velvet flowers.
  4. — A back-view of the hat of fig. 2.
Plate the Fourth


MORNING VISITING DRESS.

Fig. 1 . — Pelisse-robe of India muslin, lined with pale straw- coloured gros de Naples, the border and fronts of the robe are worked in feather stitch; the corsage, half high and tight to the shape, is partially covered by a fichu, embroidered to correspond; the sleeve is tight, and finished at the top with two falls of lace, from thence to the wrist it is full. Italian-straw hat, trimmed with violets and white ribbon.

PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.

Fig. 2. — Striped gros de Naples robe; the front of the skirt is trimmed with a rouleau, disposed in waves, and edged with lace; tight corsage, and sleeves demi-large, trimmed, as is also the fichu, with lace. White gros de Naples hat, ornamented with white ribbon and roses.

DINNER DRESS.

Fig. 3.— French grey pou de soie robe; the border is finished with a deep flounce of antique lace; a tight corsage, and short sleeves, tight just below the shoulder, and from thence disposed in bouillons; pelerine-fichu of lace to correspond with that on the skirt, and fastened down the front with rosettes of pink ribbon. Pink pou de soie hat: the interior of the brim is trimmed with gerbes of roses, a lace drapery intermixed with roses adorns the crown.

HALF-LENGTH FIGURES.

  1. — Social party dress.— Green pou de soie robe; embroidered muslin pelerine, en coeur. Embroidered tulle cap, of a round shape, decorated with moss roses and pale rose-ribbons.
  2. — Carriage hat and shawl. — The first is of rice-straw, trimmed with blue ribbons, and white ostrich feathers tipped with blue. The shawl is of India muslin, embroidered, and trimmed with lace.
  3. — Half-dress cap of blond lace, trimmed with lemon- coloured ribbons and gerbes of foliage.
Plate the Fifth

EVENING DRESS.

Fig. 1. — Robe tunique of organdy, the skirt is trimmed with bouillons, through which rose ribbon is drawn; the tunic is formed by a bouillon, arranged down the front and round the border ; it is edged with English point lace. Corsage low and square, short tight sleeves with demi Venitieene mancherons. The hair is arranged in a twisted roll at the back of the head, and ringlets at the sides ; it is adorned with gerbes of roses.

PARIS PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.

Fig. 2. — Robe of vert chin gros de Naples. Mantelet of filet de Soie (moyen age) of a peculiarly light and transparent pattern, and of a very large size. Drawn bonnet of white crape, trimmed in a very novel style with pink ribbon.

MORNING DRESS.

Fig. 3. — Robe of flesh coloured gros de Naples, square corsage, and sleeves demi large. Scarf mantelet of black filet de soie. Turban cap of tulle, ornamented with roses, and a rouleau of rose coloured ribbon.

HALF-LENGTH FIGURES.

  1. — India muslin robe, the corsage is partially covered by a heart pelerine, trimmed with lace, and a lilac ribbon in bouillon. Bonnet a la Charlotte Corday, ornamented with roses and lilac ribbon.
  2. — Cambric robe, a square corsage, and sleeve of an easy fulness. Fichu a la paysanne of black filet de soie, and tablier of lemon coloured gros de Naples. Small round cap of tulle, ornamented with a half wreath of flowers.
  3. Mousseline de laine robe, a pink ground spotted with white. Embroidered muslin fichu. Cap of tulle blonde, trimmed with blue ribbon and flowers.
Plate the Sixth

MORNING DRESS.

Fig. 1. — Robe of grey gros de Naples chine; the corsage a little pointed at bottom, and draped on the shoulders; the sleeves are drawn close at bottom and top, but full in the centre; the skirt is finished with two flounces. Italian straw hat, trimmed with ribbon to correspond, and black lace.

DINNER DRESS.

Fig. 2. — Organdy robe, spotted with blue cashmere worsted; the border is trimmed with flounces headed by a bouillon; corsage drape en coeur; the sleeves are full in the centre, but finished with bouillons at top and bottom. Pink pou de soie hat, trimmed with flowers and ribbons to correspond.

CONCERT DRESS.

Fig. 3. — Robe of pink pou de soie glace de blanc; the corsage made tight to the shape, cut low, and square; short sleeves, forming a double bouillon; pelerine-mantelet of filet de soie, ornamented with a knot of pink ribbon. Capote of oiseau crape, trimmed with ribbons to correspond.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR SEPTEMBER 1838.

The time is at last come when the genius of Fashion seeks a little repose, passing almost at once from the extreme of splendour to that of simplicity. We might be tempted to imagine that she was actually idle ; but such is never really the case. It is quite an error to say that there are no new fashions ; there may not, indeed, be striking novelties, but there will always, to an observant and critical eye, be changes ; which, though apparently slight, have still a material influence on dress, for as our readers well know, the placing of a feather or a flower, or a trifling alteration in the size or shape of the brim of a hat or bonnet, often produces a great effect upon the countenance. In like manner the figure maybe either embellished or injured by the depth of the point of a corsage, or the arrangement of a trimming. Let us now see what fashion has done for or against our fair readers in these respects, since our last number.

NEW MATERIALS. — Although it is yet too soon for new autumnal materials to appear, we have, nevertheless, been favoured with a sight of some that our fair readers will find worthy of their attention. One that is uncommonly beautiful, is a rich silk, striped in alternate marbled and damasked stripes ; another has a sort of levantine ground, very stout and close, figured in a very small pattern of vivid colours ; a third kind is a pelenot, striped alternately in satin and gros de Naples stripes of equal breadths, and strewed with small flowers, figured in different colours. We have also seen some soft satins, of a very rich quality, figured in small patterns, and changeable silks of new and brilliant hues ; and from the information that has reached us, we have no hesitation in affirming that the silks in favour for the ensuing autumn will be of great richness and beauty, and that changeable silks will enjoy considerable vogue.


SHAWLS. — There is a great variety at present, and we may cite among the most elegant, those of plain cashmere, fringed with cashmere wool. Nothing can be more graceful than those shawls with exquisitely light fringe that every breath of air agitates ; white ponceau and light blue are most in vogue. The rice crape shawls are also come again very much into favour, but they must be embroidered. Blue and ponceau are favourite colours for these shawls, but white ones are more numerous. India muslin shawls, embroidered in gold, have at once a rich and beautiful effect. We must, however, observe, that in some instances the embroidery appears to us too heavy for the material ; and we like those better in which the embroidery is a mixture of cotton and gold. We may cite as one of the most elegant of these latter, a very large shawl, the embroidery of which was of rose-coloured cotton and gold.


BONNETS. — Several have appeared, both drawn and plain, of straw-coloured pou de soie, trimmed with ribbons, plaided in straw colour and black, the union of these two colours is expected to remain in favour during the whole of the autumn. Summer bonnets are, however, still the most in request; those of crape and organdy have lost nothing of their vogue; they are trimmed very sparingly with white ribbon, and a sprig of roses with their foliage.


HATS. — Several of those of Italian straw are trimmed with groseille or deep blue velvet, and a single white ostrich feather, tipped to correspond with the velvet. Rice straw hats continue their vogue; but we have nothing new to announce concerning their trimmings. Pou de soie hats begin to be a good deal seen, and we observe that the majority are made without curtains at the back; we congratulate our readers on the abandonment of a mode so generally unbecoming; it is succeeded by a small piece trimmed up at the back of the crown, beneath which is a few puffs, or a knot of ribbon.


MANNER OF WEARING HATS. — Although fashion is in many respects less despotic than usual, she has yet established one law which none of her fair votaries ventures to transgress, that of wearing the hat very far back upon the head ; this style is exceedingly becoming to some ladies, and quite the reverse to others, but it is adopted by all ; what renders it more particularly unbecoming is, that the brim which descends very low on the cheeks, encircles the face like a cap, and is very full trimmed with flowers, blond lace, or ribbons. This fashion, if adopted in moderation, would be very pretty, but it is carried to the greatest excess; however, we hope I hat as the winter approaches it will be laid aside.


PELISSES are a good deal in request in carriage dress; we may cite, among others, those composed of the new plaided foulards, cherry colour and white; the fronts are trimmed with rosettes of ribbon to correspond, diminishing gradually in size from the top to the bottom. Another style of pelisse — one that seems likely to remain in favour, is composed of shot silk, the front trimmed en tablier, with scallops, which are edged with effile. Pelisses are all made with the corsages, opening in front in the heart style; some are finished with a small lappel, and others arranged in folds which come from the shoulder. Early as it is in the season we have seen a few pelisses trimmed with swan’s-down.


CARRIAGE DRESS. — We cannot do better than cite a few ensembles of the most elegant carriage dresses that have lately fallen under our observation. An India muslin robe, the bottom is simply finished with a broad hem ; the corsage is in crossed drapery ; the sleeves are made full below the shoulder, and are finished at the elbow by a fall of lace, headed by a bouillon, through which a coloured ribbon is drawn. The head- dress is a bonnet which as just appeared, but which, we think, very likely to be a great favourite; they are made both in crape and in silk, the one of which we speak was in crape ; the crown is placed very backward, the brim of the usual shape, but arranged en bouillons, with a slip of whalebone between each ; the edge of the brim is terminated by a bouillon, which has less of fulness than the others. The shawl is white china crape, embroidered in flowers with silks of vivid colours. Another favourite style is, a peignoir of white organdy, striped with stripes formed of a single coloured thread; the border is trimmed with a single flounce a quarter of a yard in depth. An Italian straw hat, the interior of the brim is decorated with a wreath of Marguerites, and the upper part with a bunch of raspberries and their foliage. A Spanish mantelet of black pou de soie, trimmed with black lace, completes one of the most simply elegant toilettes that we have seen for some time.


FLOWERS. — Every day produces fresh ones, and certainly nothing can be prettier than some of those fancy flowers. We may cite as the most elegant among them, the rose-acacia, which is so named, we presume, because its foliage resembles that of the acacia very much: the roses are of the natural form, and nothing can imitate nature better. There are two on the sprig, with a number of birds. This ornament is employed both for hats and for the hair, in either case it is placed on one side and falls very low.

ROBES. — Flounces are more adopted than ever, and there is now more variety in them than one would suppose possible, owing to the different manner in which they are made. Some are cut in large, moderate, and small dents, others in cocks’-combs , and some that are cut bias, are finished at the edge by double pipings. A novel style of trimming, and one that has a pretty effect, is composed of four or five flounces which diminish in width from the top to the bottom.


CORSAGES open on the bosom, are universally adopted in half-dress, this form which is at once becoming and appropriate to the demi-toilette, is expected to remain in favour.


APRONS are in very great vogue, the majority of those worn in home neglige are of plaided taffetas, trimmed either with black fringe or black lace, they are also made in mousseline de laine, a plain ground embroidered in coloured silks with bouquets of flowers, which terminate under the palelots, so that the apron appears almost covered with embroidery. Some young persons wear bibs and aprons, each corner of the bib being fastened by small gold pins. These bibs are composed only of plain pou de soie, either grey or green, and are adopted only by very young ladies. Where an apron is worn in elegant neglige, it is frequently of plain grey silk, with a narrow embroidery in rose colour ; or else an embroidery in ecru, on a plain blue ground. We see also some of muslin, trimmed with lace, and lined with rose or blue sarsnet ; but the most novel are of velours epingle, embroidered in black, in imitation of lace, and finished at the bottom by a deep and rich black lace laid full upon the apron.

MANCHETTES are now made of the round cuff kind, they are either of cambric, muslin, or organdy; a good many are trimmed with narrow lace. Several are also ornamented with open work as well as edged with lace.

EVENING COSTUMES — We shall cite as the two most elegant models, a robe of organdy, figured in white and gold; the skirt trimmed with two bouillons; they are confined by chefs d’Or. A tunic also of organdy, and trimmed to correspond, is worn over the robe ; the ceinture is a chef d’Or with two short ends, edged with a narrow gold fringe. Corsage a la Grecque, with short sleeves, ornamented with chefs; the draperies of the corsage are retained in the centre of the bosom by a cameo. Coiffure a la Berthe, decorated with white roses. The other dress is also robe of organdy, striped in very narrow stripes of the palest pink : the skirt is trimmed with three flounces of the same material, raised on one side by knots of rose ribbon. The corsage is draped, and the sleeves, which are short, are a double bouffant, ornamented with lace and rose ribbons. Coiffure a la Sevigne, decorated with a bandeau of pearls and a sprig of roses.

HEAD-DRESSES IN EVENING DRESS. — Those of hair have not altered since last month. Flowers continues their vogue, but we see also a good many decorated with ribbons, and some with velvet ; the latter, however, are not very general. Turbans are still in favour for grand parties ; they are of an elegantly simple kind, composed of tulle, and of a round form, finished on each side by a lappet, or rather we should call it a scarf of the same material, which is very long, and floats on the shoulders. Some of these turbans have flowers placed inside of the folds, which seen through their transparency has a very pretty effect.
FASHIONABLE COLOURS. — Although light hues are still predominant, we see also that full colours begin to be partially seen, — groseille, violet, and some dark shades of green, blue, and grey, have appeared.

NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES

Simplicity and taste are, this Autumn, the handmaidens of fashion, and well, indeed, do they perform their task — as our plates will testify. There is a good deal of variety as well as elegance in the fashionable costumes of the different watering-places, and though it is yet early in the year, there seems a strong tendency to the demi-saison costume; but this, generally speaking, only shews itself when the weather is more than ordinarily cool. Proceed we now to select for our fair readers such novel information as may be at once useful and acceptable to them.

CAPOTES. — A material has just been employed for them by some fashionable marchandes des modes, which we mention only to protest against the use of it — it is changeable silk— nothing can be prettier for robes and mantelets, but it has a very bad effect for bonnets, because the variations of the colour is produced only by the movement of the folds in the reflection of the light. We may venture to predict that this fancy will be merely the caprice of the moment, and will neither last nor be resumed. Capotes of gros de Naples or pou de soie of various colours ; glace de blanc, are very generally adopted, particularly those of lilac, citron, and rose-colour. Capotes of crape have diminished a little in favour, but those of gaze iris and organdy continue their vogue. Several of the latter have the edge of the brim trimmed with a ruche of the same material, but this is not so general as one of tulle. A great many morning bonnets of sewed straw have the interiors of the brim trimmed with a full ruche of blond or tulle, without any intermixture of ribbons or flowers. The crown is trimmed with ribbon only, but very sparingly, and simply arranged in a knot on one side, and another of a smaller size behind.

CHAPEAUX.— Several of those of sewed straw are trimmed with a yellow silk cord, which passes several times round the crown, and has the ends fastened in a running knot terminated by tassels. Some straw hats of other kinds are also trimmed in a similar style, but with the cord and tassels of straw. As the season advances the rage for trimming Italian straw hats with fruit and its foliage increases. We perceive, during the last month, that miniature vine leaves, and those of gooseberries and currants, are the most in favour ; but whatever the foliage may be, the fruit is either red or purple. This style of trimming and feathers, particularly follettes, is in the highest favour for straw hats. We have, however, within the last few days, seen some decorated with velvet, of rich full hues, tastefully intermingled with blond lace; the effect is strikingly elegant, and we have reason to believe the fashion is one likely to continue during the autumn, for which, indeed, it is particularly well calculated.

SHAWLS. — During several years past the spring and autumn have afforded our elegantes an opportunity of displaying their superb cashmeres, and this year we may cite the autumnal ones as peculiarly beautiful. Some have the ground of one colour only, with a very rich border en rosaces; others are of the Turkish kind, and others again of those lizarre patterns that are styled Egyptians. There is certainly a singular charm in fashion, for these last are positively ugly, notwithstanding which they are adopted by the most distinguished of our elegantes. We must observe that these shawls are all square, and of a very large size.


MANTELETS may be said to divide the vogue with shawls, for when the day is too warm for the latter, the former still continue to be adopted. We must observe, however, that lace and muslin ones are very little seen; black silk ones enjoy great favour, and those of changeable silk trimmed with black lace still greater. Those made with the pelerine descending in the lappel style are decidedly the most in request, but as to the form there is no actual novelty, nor indeed can any be expected at present. We have reason, however, to believe that as the winter approaches mantelets will increase in size ; we shall be very sorry if they do, for at present they are the very perfection of the juste milieu.

PROMENADE DRESS FOR THE WATERING PLACES.— Several of our most distinguished elegantes have lately appeared in redingotes of nankeen, with the front of the corsage and skirt trimmed with three rows of buttons spreading in the fan form. Some have the olives joined by brandebourgs instead of buttons. The sleeves are large in the centre, but made close at bottom and top, and ornamented with brandebourgs. Pretty manchettes of Valenceinnes, and a lace to correspond, encircling the throat, are generally adopted with this costume, which is completed in the most tasteful style by a straw hat trimmed with plaid ribbons, or else with a ribbon striped in the narrowest possible stripes of black and straw colour, and a black ostrich feather which falls very low upon the brim. The first hats of this kind that have appeared made really quite a sensation, and pretty as they are allowed to be, an improvement has recently taken place which renders them still more elegant— it is a new kind of feather, half black and half straw-colour, which promises to be in very great request this autumn. A bird of Paradise, dyed black, is sometimes employed instead of a feather of this kind, but though more expensive it is by no means so fashionable.

MORNING DRESS. — We have but few observations to make upon it at this moment ; the peignoir form is the most decidedly in request, and muslin still predominates. We have seen, however, some peignoirs of mousseline de laine, the fronts trimmed with a puffing of ribbon, corresponding with the ground of the robe ; a small pelerine-fichu crossed upon the bosom is also trimmed to correspond.

HALF-DRESS PEIGNOIRS are in great favour; they are always composed either of organdy or gauze ; the back of the corsage is tight, the front loose. When the wearer wishes to confine it to the shape she adopts a long ceinture of the same material, forming a rosette with long ends. There is something at once very tasteful and simple in this style of half-dress. Robes of the tunic form continue to be worn, but they are not so numerous. A great many half-high robes are trimmed with a bouillon so disposed on the corsage as to have the appearance of a fichu-pelerine; others have the bouillon disposed in such a manner as to have the effect of a pelerine en coeur; in either case the robe is trimmed with flounces, there are generally two, each surmounted by a bouillon. Where peignoirs are adopted in evening dress, which at present is often the case, the corsage is always disposed en coeur, on purpose that it may be made rather low. Organdy is very much in favour, so also is Scotch cambric, the first material has, however, the greatest vogue ; several dresses of it have appeared sprigged with coloured worsteds, and others trimmed with velvet en application, but ladies of acknowledged taste give a decided preference to the material in its elegant native simplicity. Festoons divide at present the vogue of flounces, several of which are festooned in coloured silk or worsted, with cockscombs or dents de coup. We see also some fichus a la paysanne, and even collars, ornamented in the same manner. Some redingotes are made with the bottom of the corsage edged with one or two rouleaus that are extremely small; when this is the case a ceinture is not used ; the waist consequently appears longer. This is, in our opinion, a graceful fashion.

Transcribed from: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to October

Back to August

Extant Embroidered Jacobean Jackets

A garment of which there are huge numbers of surviving examples, as well as painted depictions, is the late 16th century – early 17th century woman’s waistcoat or jacket. Such garments seem to be almost entirely English, and their survival is perhaps mainly thanks to their small size and intricate embroidery. It’s not very easy to cut them down and turn them into anything else!

English woman's jacket in undyed linen embroidered with silver and gilt-silver yarns and spangles in daffodil scroll pattern, trimmed with metallic lace.
English woman’s jacket in undyed linen embroidered with silver and gilt-silver yarns and spangles in daffodil scroll pattern, trimmed with metallic lace, c. 1610-1615 with later alterations, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Such garments were informal wear for noble women, while the gentry considered them formal wear. Decoration varied from simple wool embroidery on fustian to metallic threads on linen or silk, complete with hundreds of metal spangles.

Margaret Layton Jacket, 1610-1615 (altered 1620), V&A Museum
Margaret Layton Jacket, 1610-1615 (altered 1620), V&A Museum

Possibly the most famous jacket is the Margaret Layton one, since not only does the jacket still exist, so does a portrait of it being worn! Such a survival is rare for something for so old, and it gives valuable insight into how such garments were worn.

“The waistcoat has long, tight sleeves, narrow shoulder wings, semi-circular cuffs and a small curved collar at the back neck, dating it to about 1610. Made of linen, it is hand sewn and lined with coral silk taffeta. Originally the jacket was fastened with pink silk ribbons. In the 1620s, an edging of spangled silver-gilt bobbin lace was added. Fragments remain of the original silk ribbons used for fastening. The waistcoat is embroidered in detached buttonhole, stem, plaited braid, chain, couching and dot stitches, with knots and speckling, with coloured silk threads, silver-gilt threads and spangles.”

V&A Museum
Margaret Layton Portrait, c. 1620, Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger
Margaret Layton Portrait, c. 1620, Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger

The jacket had the lace added in the 1620s, but as fashion was changing, waistlines had risen. Rather than further alter the jacket drastically, Margaret Layton instead wore her petticoat higher up over the jacket, hiding its lower waistline.

For more pictures of the jacket, see its page on the V&A website. There are nearly 100 detailed pictures of the embroidery and construction!

Margaret Layton Jacket, 1610-1615 (altered 1620), V&A Museum, Detail
Margaret Layton Jacket, 1610-1615 (altered 1620), V&A Museum, Detail

Another jacket held by the V&A with a huge number of images is this loose fitting one from c.1590-1630.

Loose fitting linen jacket c.1590-1630, V&A Museum
Loose fitting linen jacket c.1590-1630, V&A Museum

“This simple unlined jacket represents an informal style of clothing worn by women in the early 17th century. Unlike more fitted waistcoats, this loose, unshaped jacket may have been worn during pregnancy. A repeating pattern of curving scrolls covers the linen from which spring sweet peas, oak leaves, acorns, columbine, lilies, pansies, borage, hawthorn, strawberries and honeysuckle embroidered in coloured silks, silver and silver-gilt threads. The embroidery stitches include chain, stem, satin, dot and double-plait stitch, as well as knots and couching of the metal threads. Sleeves and sides are embroidered together with an insertion stitch in two shades of green instead of a conventionally sewn seam.

Although exquisitely worked, this jacket is crudely cut from a single layer of linen, indicating the work of a seamstress or embroiderer, someone without a tailor’s training. It has no cuffs, collar or lining, and the sleeves are cut in one piece. The jacket was later altered to fit a thinner person. The sleeves were taken off, the armholes re-shaped, the sides cut down, and the sleeves set in again.”

V&A Museum
Loose fitting linen jacket c.1590-1630, V&A Museum, Detail
Loose fitting linen jacket c.1590-1630, V&A Museum, Detail

Unlike many other extant jackets, it is embroidered entirely in silk, without the use of metallic threads or spangles that are so visible on so many of the others. The fact that it survives while still being so loose fitting is also interesting, since it wouldn’t have been difficult to cut it down into on of the more fashionable jackets of the later 1630s.

One jacket that has been cut down and altered is this one.

Waistcoat, c.1610-1620, altered 1620s, V&A Museum
Waistcoat, c.1610-1620, altered 1620s, V&A Museum

The neckline has been cut down, cutting into the embroidery, probably so that it could be worn as a masque costume. The sides have been taken in, and the armscyes made smaller by adding pieces to them. It doesn’t seem to be a particularly skilled job, but since masques tended to take place in the evening, in candle light, it is unlikely that anyone would have noticed!

A jacket that was also altered for a masque (though in a very different way!) is also held by the V&A.

Waistcoat, 1600-1620, altered 1620s, V&A Museum
Waistcoat, 1600-1620, altered 1620s, V&A Museum

“Four pieces forming a woman’s waistcoat made of bleached linen and embroidered with coloured silks, silver and silver-gilt filé and spangles. The pattern of the embroidery comprises a lattice of geometric strapwork in plaited braid stitch with threads. Worked inside the strapwork compartments are flowers, fruits and leaves in coloured silks in detached buttonhole stitch. The grapes are similarly worked, but raised for a three-dimensional effect.

The waistcoat was probably altered in the 1620s to wear as masque costume. The fronts were removed, shortened and new gores added, then sewn to new silk backs (not meant to be seen when worn) The waistcoat probably had a scattering of silver-gilt spangles. Many more, each topped with a glass bead, were added, filling the linen ground and almost obscuring the pattern of the embroidery…

…The British philosopher and writer Francis Bacon (1561-1626) wrote an essay, ‘Of Masques and Triumphs’, in 1594, advising on the colours and decorations most effective for masque costume. He recommended spangles, ‘as they are of no great cost, so they are of most glory. As for rich embroidery, it is lost, and not discerned.’”

V&A Museum

On that note, I think I’ll just present you with a collection of some of the other beautiful embroidered jackets still in existence!

Chemise a la Reine?

Marie Antoinette, 1778, by Élisabeth Vigée-Lebrun.

French court fashion in the last half of the 18th century was excessive. Marie Antoinette set the trend, paving the way for fast fashion as we know it today. She would spend up to £20,000 a day, reportedly commissioning 300 dresses a year, and hardly wearing anything twice.  At a time when fashions changed slowly, fashion plates were being printed every 10 days to keep up with her!

Such silk gowns were worn over the top of structured underthings: after putting on a shift or chemise, stays, panniers, and petticoats would be used to help the wearer achieve the ideal fashionable figure. Silk was the most popular fabric for gowns and coats: the aristocracy at court kept the French silk industry afloat, and their clothes were a display of their patriotism in doing so.

Marie Antoinette en gaule, 1783, by Élisabeth Vigée-Lebrun.

Taking French Court fashions into mind, it is little wonder that this portrait caused such a scandal when it was exhibited publicly in 1783!

Marie Antoinette has shed the visible indicators of the fact that she is queen, and there’s no evidence of her husband (the King) anywhere! She’s not even wearing any jewellery, and there’s certainly no subtly placed crown in the corner.

The dress is loose fitting, with no panniers beneath the skirts to hold them out.  You can barely tell that she is wearing stays! On top of that, its made of cotton muslin, not French silk.

Finally, (and arguably most scandalously) the dress looks a lot like a chemise or shift: the under most linen or cotton garment worn by women, which was easily washable and served as protection both for the body from stays rubbing, (think wearing a tight shoe without any socks), and preventing sweat from soaking into the unwashable stays and outer gown.

Marie Antoinette in a posthumous portrait, 1800, by Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun.

However, fashions rarely materialise out of the blue. They all have their origins somewhere, and this dress was not thought up by the Queen for her pastoral fantasy at Le Petit Trianon.

Vêtement dit a la Créole, Galerie des Modes et Costumes Francais, 1779

Vêtement dit a la Créole, composé de celui que portent nos Dames Françaises en Amérique: c’est un grande robe de mousseline, à manches justes qui se serrent au poignet; la robe est un peu ajustée  à la taille et dégagée autour de la gorge dans le gout d’une chemise: elle est cependent sortaisée et ouverte par devant; on l’áttache en haut avec une épingle lorsqu’on veut qu’elle joigne, et a la ceinture avec un ruban comme la Lévite; par dessus un caraco à coqueluchon sans manches; celles de la robe forment l’amadis. Cette figure est coëffée d’un chapeau dit à la Grenade.

A dress a la Creole, made up of that worn by our French Ladies in America: it is a large muslin dress, with fair sleeves that tighten at the wrist; the dress is a little tightened at the waist and clears around the throat in the way of a chemise: it is however taken off and opened at the front; you fasten it at the top with a pin when you want it to join, and at the waist with a ribbon like a Levite [a member of the Hebrew tribe of Levi]; over this a short sleeved caraco jacket; those of the dress form the lower sleeves. On her head is a hat a la Grenade.

[Apologies for the slightly dodgy translation: my French is rather rusty…]

Agostino Brunias, West Indian Creole woman, with her Black Servant ca. 1780

The Chemise a la Reine was rarely called such in the C18th, and was instead known by a variety of other names, primarily (and most notably) the Robe a la Creole. Such a garment began to appear in fashion plates from 1779 in the Galerie des Modes et Costumes Français, as the “Vêtement dit à la creole,” described in the caption  as being “made up of that which our French ladies wear in America.” What the title tells us (that the caption does not) is that the French ladies in America were copying the dress worn by black freewomen (and quite possible enslaved people as well), which approximated European fashionable dress using the materials these women had available to them. Since such clothes were less restrictive and better adapted to the warmer climates, it didn’t take too long for white colonial women to begin wearing them too.

Detail from Linen Market in Dominica, Agostino Brunias, 1780s, “Robe en chemise de mousseline,” Cabinet des Modes, 1786

Marie Antoinette succeeded in popularising the simple cotton dress amongst her friends, but it took the French Revolution for cotton to become so vital to fashion. Luxurious silks and excessive dresses, as a symbol of the fallen aristocracy, were anathema to the revolutionary ideas. The dramatic simplification of dress in the late C18th – early C19th fuelled the rise of the slave trade, and made it possible to later declare that “Cotton is King.”

Agostino Brunias, Linen Market in Dominica ca. 1780

For more, see:

Sonia Ashmore’s book “Muslin,”

Creole Comforts and French Connections

The Little White Dress

The Origins of the Chemise a la Reine