This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazine de Modes is replete with every fashionable article; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c., &c., AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.
COSTUME OF ALL NATIONS, (NO. 38.) JEWISH REBECCA.
There are very few, we believe, who have not perused the novel of Ivanhoe, and who have not dwelt with delight, on the charming character there pourtrayed, of a most lovely and excellent female of Jewish race, the matchless “Rebecca.” She is again presented to the public eye, on the stage, in the popular piece of the “Maid of Judah;” and we now present her as an embellishment to the “WORLD OF FASHION,” in a fancy costume, as splendid as any heretofore worn by the most distinguished daughters of Sion, and particularly becoming as a dress for a fete, or a ball.
Over a petticoat of white Indian silk, embroidered with gold, at the border, is a robe, open in front of the skirt, of Velvet; the colour of the far famed Tyrian-purple. A deep, and very rich fringe of gold, finishes the border of this robe, which descends only low enough to discover the gold border on the white petticoat. Above this fringe is a row of palm-leaves embroidered in gold, green, and scarlet; and the robe is figured over, in a smaller pattern, embroidered in the same manner. The body fits the shape, and is striped downwards with gold; it discovers a chemisette-tucker of fine linen, worked with different colours, and finished by a narrow gold lace. The sleeves are long, and of white silk, studded over with small precious stones of various colours. From the purple velvet strap on the shoulder, descends a row of gold fringe over the top of the sleeve, en mancheron. Over the left shoulder is a sash of oriental gauze, of a saffron colour; this, crossing over the back, hangs carelessly over the right hip, and from thence, ties in a rosette on the left side, the ends finished by a broader, yet lighter kind of fringe than that on the robe. The turban is of white, and very slight Indian silk, and is ornamented in the same manner as the sleeves. It is looped up in front by an ornament of finely wrought gold, with a small rosette tuft at the summit, of Tyrian-purple feathers, from whence waves over the left side, a tail of the bird-of paradise. The hair curls beautifully over the back and shoulders; and a superb forehead-jewel, splendidly set in gold, which forms the most conspicuous part, is placed across the hair in front. The necklace is composed of the richest jewellery, in two rows, set a l’antique, with drop ornaments of wrought gold. The bracelets are entirely of gold; two are worn on the left wrist, and only one on the right. The small Jewish slippers are of Aurora, or saffron-colour, with gold rosettes
AN EVENING DRESS.
A dress of white crepe lisse over white satin, with a broad hem round the border, headed by oreilles de lievres, of white satin every ear edged, as they lie over each other, by a shaded rouleau of yellow and pomegranate, a rouleau of which seems to support these ornaments together, and terminates the heading of the hem. The corsage is a la Circassiene, and is confined by a girdle with a full rosette of white satin on the left side, from which descend three cordons of yellow and pomegranate, which spread out till they nearly attain the head of the border, where they are each terminated by a bonquet of flowers. The sleeves are short, and very full, and the fullness confined in the middle by a band of white satin. A small bow of white satin is fixed on the outside of the arm on the sleeve, next the shoulder, and a falling tucker of blond surrounds the bust. The hair is arranged in curls on each side of the face, and small bars on the summit of the head. An elegant ornament, in the eastern style, of white gauze, richly figured, is disposed, with much taste, across the tresses, and crowned with a superb bouquet of full blown Provence roses. The earrings and necklace are of large pearls; those which compose the latter, are set seperately, a l’antique. Very broad gold bracelets are worn over the gloves, fastened by a cluster of turquoise stones.
AN EVENING DRESS.
A dress of blush-coloured satin, bordered by two flounces; that next the feet, which is deeper than that above, is beautifully embroidered at the edges, in small branches of of delicate foliage in dark olive green floize silk, and the edge, which is in points, is finished by three rows of narrow beading of the same colour. The upper flounce, which is set on fuller, has no embroidery, but the points are edged in the same manner as that next the shoe. Above this is a row of branches, worked in the same manner, and in the same colour as those above described; the seams also of the dress have similiar embroidery down each side in front. The corsage is a la Roxalane; the sleeves short, and much puffed out, finished at the shoulders by points, edged with dark olive beading; in front of each a damask rose, with green foliage. The head-dress consists of a Spanish toque of blush coloured satin; three short white feathers, taking a spiral direction, grace the right side; on the left are seen playing, three still shorter; and below the left ear are two. The ear-rings and necklace are of various coloured gems, pointed and irradiated. Bracelets are worn over the gloves of light green and gold enamel, fastened by a ruby.
AN EVENING DRESS.
A dress of white crape, bordered by a very broad hem, at the head of which is painted en Serpentine, double rows of foliage, consisting of branches of cypress, in light willow-green, yellow, and vermillion. The corsage of white satin, fitting very tight at the smaller part of the waist, and at the top of the bust, a la Roxelane. Down the front of the waist is an ornament of gold chain-work, and the body is finished in a point, at the base, with the same kind of trimming, serving as a girdle. A narrow, falling tucker, of two rows of blond, surrounds the bust. The sleeves short, very full, and ornamented in front of the arm with a branch of painted cypress leaves, to correspond with those on the skirt. A turban of white crape and blond graces the head; its folds confined by ornaments of myrtle-green and gold. On the left side is an esprit feather of the same colour, and, from the towering upward to the summit, is a bouquet formed of purple, double lark-spurs, white lark-spurs, thistles, and green corn. The ear-pendants and necklace are formed of rubies and diamonds. The bracelets, which are very broad, are of gold and turquoise stones.
AN EVENING DRESS.
A dress of soft satin, the very lightest shade of celestial-blue, trimmed round the border by two deep flounces, the upper one falling over the other; at the edge of each flounce is a narrow rouleau of olive-brown satin, surmounted by a row of yellow butterflies, beautifully embroidered, and over the upper flounce are two rows on the dress, of the same summer insect. This new dress, we are happy to see, is evidently shorter in the waist than has been worn of late; it is made quite plain, and confined round the waist by a simple belt of satin, without any point. Round the tucker part of the corsage is a collar, en Paladin, the same as the dress, edged round with narrow blond, headed by an olive brown rouleau; over this falls a frill of blond, of the most rich and splendid pattern. The sleeves are plain, short, and full. The hair is elegantly and fashionably arranged, and is crowned by a double, open coronet-wreath of flowers; the lower part of which obliquely crosses the forehead, while the upper part, which is most varied in colours, is placed at the base of the Apollo-knot. On the right side is a large bouquet, consisting of two large full blown Provence roses, and buds, with white double lark-spur, and blue lupins. The necklace, ear-pendants, and bracelets, are of opal; the latter very broad, with chain-work of gold next the wrist.
AN EVENING DRESS.
A dress of white crape, with a very broad hem at the border, over which is embroidered a rich Mogul pattern in green and gold. The points of this oriental pattern depend downwards, and to every fourth point hangs a small light chaplet of green and gold. The corsage is a la Roxelane, and is confined round the waist by a belt of green satin. The tucker part is surrounded by an ornament in chain-work, of small beads, to which are suspended drops en girandoles. The sleeves are short, and very full, surmounted each by a double frill of blond. The hair is dressed very wide on each side of the face, and in full clusters of curls The summit is wound round and round in stiff plats, till it is formed into a corbeille, in the centre of which is a mass of curls. Long branches of heath, with scarlet blossoms adorn each side of the head. A bandeau of white am gold enamel, with three pear-pearls in the centre, en girandole, crosses the upper part of the forehead.
A dress of white Greek-velvet, painted en colonnes, of lowers, in various colours. A border, consisting of scrolls of the same material as the dress, so disposed, as to appear like large leaves pointing downwards; these are bound round with satin; one side of the edge in lilac, the other in yellow. Divided by a narrow rouleau of yellow satin, are smaller scrolls, standing erect, and forming a kind of head to the border; between each of these is a puff of white crape or satin. The body is made plain, and round the tucker part is a notched ornament, each notch bound round alternately with lilac or yellow; over this falls a triple tucker of blond, very full. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, immensely large, and very full; they are confined at the wrist by a broad gold bracelet, and next the hand is a narrow double ruffle of blond. The head-dress consists of a white gauze Greek turban, enlaced by lemon-coloured satin ribbon, and ornamented by two plumes of white feathers, representing the tails of the bird-of-paradise. The necklace is formed of two rows of pearls, and the ear-pendants are two pear-pearls.
N. B. – A back view of the above costume.
FIG. 1 and 2. – Turban-toque, (back and front view) of lama-gauze, and figured satin; the gauze pink and black, the satin part white, with painted figures of an eastern pattern, in deep Mogul-red and lemon-colour. White plumage, formed of feathers representing the tail of the bird-of-paradise, floats over the left side.
FIG. 3 and 4. – Back and front view of a dress hat, of white satin, ornamented under the left side of the brim, with a small plume of white ostrich feathers, and on the right side with a full rosette of blond; the crown splendidly adorned with white blond, and a full plume of white ostrich feathers.
FIG. 5 and 6. – Back and front view of a blond cap, for half dress, with a very broad border of a Vandyck pattern, turned back, and next the hair a beautiful and delicate wreath, composed of heath in blossom; much blond is displayed in the rest of the ornaments, with pink satin rouleaux.
FIG. 7. Coiffeure composed of puffs of ribbon; blue gauze and silver, mingled with puffs of pink satin.
FIG. 8. Back view of the same kind of head-dress, entirely in pink ribbon.
FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES, BUSTS, &C.
FIG. 1. – Oriental toque of Cachemire gauze, figured en sechal, and formed, in front, like an eastern diadem-turban; from whence it is wound round to the summit of the head, where the hair is arranged by braids a la Grecque, and much elevated.
FIG. 2. – Back view of the same kind of head-dress, in pink gauze.
FIG. 3. – Back and front view of the hair disposed in the Grecian style, and tastefully ornamented with full-blown roses, and pink and blue double-larkspurs.
FIG. 4. – Hair arranged a la Chinoise, and crowned on the summit by bouquets of roses and blue-bells. A bandeau, formed of one row of pearls, crosses the forehead, where the hair separates. Ear-pendants of pearls, en girandoles.
N.B. – A back view of the same coiffeure.
FIG. 5. – Head-dress in hair, a la Naide, with a bandeau of pearls across the forehead; the summit of the head is ornamented by plats of hair en corbeille, from whence ascend two loops of hair, forming a bow. Above these, on the right side, appears a coronet comb of gold, and the whole is crowned by blue larkspurs and monks’-hood.
N.B. – Back view of a similar head-dress, with full-blown Summer roses and green foliage.
FIG. 6. A blond cap, with a broad pointed border, turned back, and flowers on each temple, of an exotic kind, pink, with long green foliage. A few puffs of pink ribbon form the additional ornaments, strings of which float over the shoulders.
N.B. – Back view of the same cap, ornamented with steam-yellow gauze ribbon.
FIG. 7. – Moorish turban of ponceau and yellow crape. A back view represents the same kind of turban in Navarin-blue and lemon-colour.
FIG. 8. – Promenade bonnet of emerald-green, lined with white, and trimmed with the same coloured ribbon, with a few puffs of white satin ribbon intermingled.
FIG. 9. – Back view of a bonnet, for walking, of lavender gros de Naples, trimmed with the same. Both these bonnets tie under the chin with a mentonniere of blond.
FIG. 10. Back and front view of a cap of black blond, ornamented with pink gauze ribbon, with black satin stripes. The crown en treillage, formed of rouleaux of pink satin.
NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR APRIL, 1829.
Though the evening dress parties have not been many, and the balls, at present, but few, yet those which have taken place have been remarkably select and splendid: from such sources, and from the various elegancies which now continue in preparation, for such circles, according to increased and increasing orders at MRS. BELL’S tasteful Magazine de Modes, we are enabled to present our readers with a description of the following novelties in fashionable costume.
From the above-mentioned emporium of fashion, a carriage pelisse of the most elegant kind, has been just completed, to order, for a female of distinction: it is of a peculiarly rich Gros de Naples; the colour Navarin-blue; it is faced, and trimmed round the border by a broad ornament of black velvet, in Spanish points; between each of which is a rounded leaf, in velvet, edged by a narrow satin rouleau; the body is faced down the front in a correspondent manner. The sleeves are en jigot, with a broad gauntlet cuff of black velvet, pointed; and at the point three round leaves, forming a kind of tulip-ornament. Another favourite out-door dress, but more adapted for the promenade, is of Gros de Naples, and is made high; it is the colour of the marshmallow-blossom; it is bordered by a broad hem, headed by two stripes of black velvet, set at a distance from each other, about half an inch; these stripes are put on en serpentine; and from them issue on each side of the serpentine wave, branches of the leaves of Cypress; this foliage is of the same colour and material as the dress, and every leaf is edged round by black velvet. The body is a la Roxelane, the sleeves en jigot, with a pointed cuff, and next the hand is a narrow row of antique English points, edged with black velvet.
Amongst the dresses for the evening, those of velvet are not yet laid aside; we have seen one of much taste and elegance, finished down the front of the skirt in the Bavarian style; the robe, itself, is of black velvet of the softest texture, and hangs beautifully over the form. The apparent petticoat is of black satin crossed by straps formed of rouleaux of the same material, each ornamented in the centre as they point downwards, with a gold buckle: the front of the bust is en guimpe, and is finished in the same manner as the skirt. Over short sleeves of black velvet are those which are long, consisting of black Japanese gauze, with a very deep gauntlet-cuff, of black satin, and a row of gold buttons in bias, on the outside of the wrist. The poplin coloured silks, and coloured crape dresses for the ball and evening party have experienced no change, at present, worth recording; we generally give all the novelty in costume to our engravings, and when we have but little new to add in these our observations, we trust our indulgent readers will there find their expectations fulfilled of gaining every intelligence concerning the reigning costumes, in the “WORLD OF FASHION.”
The bonnets are still in an uncertain state, wavering continually between black velvet and satin, or white satin and coloured Gros de Naples; one carriage bonnet has, however, appeared, the form like those the French call hat-bonnets; having, in front, every appearance of a hat. This tasteful bonnet is of Egyptian plaid, pink and yellow ; it is trimmed with steam-yellow ribbon chequered with black, and ornamented with exotic flowers, which are yellow and scarlet, with green foliage formed of feathers.
A cap for receiving dinner parties at home, is an elegant novelty in the coiffeure department. It is of beautiful blond, the border excessively broad, and pointed at the edge: this border is turned back, with a full clustered wreath of small, and just-opening roses, both red and white, lying on the hair in front: the back of the caul is ornamented by a similar wreath, and bows of pink gauze ribbon, with satin stripes, complete the trimming. Another cap for home costume is of very fine Mechlin lace, and is ornamented with pink gauze, of which material there are long lappets. Rouleaux of satin draw up the handsome border en fers de Cheval; on each temple is a puff-rosette of pink gauze. A very pretty blond cap for half dress, has also much taste in its composition; it is made of fine tulle and narrow blond; there are bars of pink gauze striped ribbon over each temple, a white, double Narcissus with green folliage on the right side, with white jessamine, and its sombre-green leaves. We are happy to find the Opera head-dresses likely to become less annoying than when they consisted so much of large dress hats and capacious berets; charming turbans of oriental shape, and the most becoming size seem to be more in favour with the matronly beauty; these are often ornamented with a yellow plumage of a fancy kind, with very delicate flowers, in which is mingled a small portion of blue, which takes off from the monotony of the yellow plumage. Young ladies of rank are seen at the Opera and at evening full dress parties, with wreaths on their hair, formed of white crape roses, and jagged foliage of gold. Many ladies wear a full head-dress composed of coloured ostrich feathers.
The favourite colours are Navarin-blue, pink, marshmallow-blossom, steam-yellow and bright-rock-geranium.
NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.
HATS AND BONNETS. – Hats of black, green, or violet-coloured velvet, are yet very prevalent: very few are ornamented with feathers, but several are trimmed with blond, and puffs of velvet and ribbon.
Bonnets of coloured satin are also worn, lined with white and trimmed with white ribbon; the ribbons spotted with the same colour as the hat.
At the promenades, are seen many hats of rose-coloured satin trimmed with blond.
Instead of the usual round riding hat, many ladies wear with their riding-dresses, beaver bonnets tied close down, which fashion they call a l’Anglaise. Black veils with these bonnets, are universal.
Bonnets of gros de Naples, of English-green, have, at the edge, a ruche of black blond; very broad, to which is added a demi-veil of blond.
If there is any fashion which has survived the lapse of ages, it is that of wearing blonds; never were they in such favour as at the present day. At the promenade, be the hat or bonnet ever so simple, it is trimmed with the richest blond.
Several black velvet hats have appeared lately, trimmed with flat ostrich feathers. Under the brims are blue or rose-coloured ribbons, cut in leaves. The number of hats and bonnets in rose-coloured satin, with a demi-veil of blond at the edge, increases every day. Those of blue satin, lined with white, are much admired: they are ornamented with ribbon, and white blond. White willow feathers are seen on coloured velvet hats. There is a new kind of gros de Naples much in favour for hats and bonnets ; the ground is chamois-colour, with violet and green stripes, about three finger’s breadth distant from each other. The hats made of this silk, have narrow brims, and the sides are as wide as the front: the upper part of the crown is fluted. Green and violet feathers form the favourite ornaments on these hats. The trimming on the bonnets consist of long puffs of ribbon green and violet placed over the crown, and beneath the brim. A hat of lemon-coloured crape, or of English blue, is very fashionable; at the base of the crown is affixed, by a rosette of gauze ribbon, a branch of lilacs, or rather three branches fastened together. The direction of this ornament is vertical; a broad blond surrounds the edge of the brim. Some hats of lilac gros de Naples, have the crowns trimmed with eight or ten large puffs of gauze ribbon of English-green, with satin stripes. There are often seen on hats of white crape, trimmed with white gauze ribbon, two bunches of rose-coloured perriwinkles, one on the summit of the crown, towards the right, the other on the same side, at the edge of the brim.
Carriage-hats are what are called a l’Francois I. The brims very large, and turned up in front, where is placed a very long feather, which lies on the hair.
OUT-DOOR COSTUME. – Pelisses of steam-yellow satin, or rose-colour, are most fashionable.
Ermine tippets now take the place of the Boas, on the shoulders of women of fashion.
Muffs are still worn, and high dresses trimmed with marten or ermine.
Cloaks of satin, and pelerines of velvet, are now most admired when trimmed with blond.
Satin pelisses fasten down the front of the skirt, by gold buttons: they are ornamented above the broad hem at the border, by passementerie.
DRESSES. – A rich dress of blue gauze, is much admired in grande parure. Above the broad hem, at the border, is a full ornament of beading. A bunch of marabout feathers is fastened on one side of the dress, by a butterfly, formed of coloured jewels. Some dresses of rose-crape are trimmed with a ruche below the hem, next the feet, and which is carried up in a point towards one side of the skirt. On the white crape dresses, the bouquets are painted on the hem, instead of being above it. All the short sleeves are en berets; the plaits either very large, or remarkably small. Above the blond which surrounds the bust of ball dresses, there is sometimes a narrow ruche. Above the hem of a crape dress, the colour, bird-of-paradise, was lately seen five rows of satin points, very close to each other, and forming a most elegant trimming.
Blond canezous are often worn with silk dresses, and those of tulle, with muslin gowns, are fastened in front by half a dozen buttons in gold or jewels, like those worn by gentlemen. One of these canazous in blond, destined to be worn with a dress of blue velvet, formed brandenburghs by its embroidery, which were surrounded by narrow gold braiding, which were joined in front by a double gold tassel, passed through a button-hole.
At dress parties, are seen rose-coloured, or steam-yellow satin dresses, which are trimmed round the tucker part of the corsage, with several rows of pearls, and a friar’s belt of pearls incircles the waist. A dress of cherry-coloured velvet, has, above the hem, a broad silver fringe, a sash embroidered with silver, and wide sleeves of tulle, embroidered in silver. Another dress is of Ispahan-velvet, painted in columns of flowers, in different colours. The gowns are made very low at the shoulders and back, and the greater part have drapery on the corsage. Some dresses of black velvet have the sleeves slashed a l’Espagnole, and the slashes filled in by puckerings of tulle. A dress of Russia-satin, of a pearl-grey, has been much admired, with long sleeves; and, at the upper part of the arm, eight or ten regular plaits, very close together, which represented the wings of an English corps of light infantry.
There are some short sleeves that impart the idea of those pavillions formed of great pipes, or shanks of trees, which are used at the portals of a palace to extinguish the flambeaux that are carried before the king and the princes.
Spotted and stamped merinos, in colours, are yet in favour for deshabille; all these kind of dresses have one deep flounce, en rideau, and a pelerine surrounded by a broad trimming, is worn with them. For half dress, a merino should be embroidered above the hem, or if trimmed with a flounce, that should be embroidered at the edge.
HEAD-DRESSES. – Marabouts, mingled with six or eight butterflies in precious stones, form a favourite head-dress: the butterflies are of all shades and sizes. Never were the feathers nor the esprits disposed in the hair with so much taste as in this year. The hair is platted or twisted in cordons, separated at intervals by gold and precious stone ornaments.
Caps of blond, which have cauls, have in front, no other trimming than a few puffs of ribbons, with cut ends. Others of pink tulle, have bands of the same, festooned in long pointed plaits, which form a large tuft on one side, and terminate on the other by a ruche, which surrounds the whole of the cap, behind.
At the Opera, are seen several berets of black velvet, in the Spanish style; they are ornamented with ponceau, or white feathers; some are turned up on one side by loops of gold or pearls, and these very much resemble the small hats worn in the reign of Francis I.
Head dresses in hair are numerous. Those are particularly distinguished where the bows of hair behind, unite with those in front, so that they form two bandeaux on each side of the forehead. The summit of the head is ornamented with an arrow which crosses the bows, or one single large full blown rose, surrounded by an auriole of small flowers.
The blond dress caps are so disposed as to display the tufts of hair, through those ornaments which serve in lieu of a caul.
Several ladies wear a broad gothic ornament in front of their hair, composed of differently coloured stones, surmounted by a bird-of-paradise, or a heron’s plume.
A wreath of small roses, placed obliquely over the left ear, is a favourite ornament on the hair of many ladies.
A cardinal’s hat in black velvet, trimmed with gold lace and tufts, which hang two and two, from right to left, are fastened by two gold runners; these are terminated by tassels, descending as low as the shoulders. To the same hat is appended two lappets of gaze-lisse, on each side. A toque of cherry-coloured velvet, bordered by a very broad blond, is ornamented with narrow tresses of gold, and half covered by a diadem of flowers with long stalks.
The head-dresses form a perfect museum of jewellery ornaments of every kind; white feathers mingled with diamond ears of corn is a very favourite coiffeure. Almost all the ball head-dresses consist of three butterflies placed on very long stalks, which appear hovering over the bows of hair on the summit of the head. Several bouquets, or a wreath of foliage with gold flowers, have a very pretty effect on the hair at candle-light. Turbans of gold and silver gauze are ornamented with a bird-of-paradise; and ladies, eminent for their taste in dress, wear the Moabitish turban, of white tissue-gauze, surrounded by gold ornaments, or those of ponceau.
Ladies of fashion continue to wear their hair a la Grecque; the outre appearance of which is devoid of all grace, but it is the reigning mode. Gauze, entwined amongst the hair, is the most distinguishing ornament. Black velvet berets, ornamented with white flowers and white feathers, are in high favour.
JEWELLERY. Butterflies, formed of coloured stones, are so fashionable this winter, that we give as a proof a description of a present lately made to one of the most pretty women of fashion in Paris. It was a magnificent casket of jewels, containing an assortment of twelve butterflies, some of which had their wings formed of small diamonds, and the body in enamel; others were of rubies, emeralds, and various other stones. There was one in topazes, spotted with black. All the gold pins, which served to fasten the butterflies, were ranged in symmetrical order in the casket.
Golden arrows, and those of pearls and of diamonds, are much in favour as ornaments on the hair.
Some of the Chatelaines are now ornamented with seals. Narrow bracelets, of wrought gold, are used to keep the gloves tight above the wrists.
Broad bracelets, of tortoise-shell, are a novelty in jewellery; these are ornamented with divisions of gold in open work. In all the trinket-boxes now, in order to have the head dressed it a la Psyche, is a large butterfly, either in gold enamel, or in jewellery of great or small value. Those who have not viewed closely the setting of this bijou, cannot form an idea of the manner in which the butterfly is set, and, in particular, of the ingenious process, by aid of which it vibrates constantly over the jewels, or the artificial flowers.
1st, A double stalk, or pin with two branches forked, serves to fix the butterfly in the hair in front of the bows, the comb, or the plats, &c.
2d, A spring serves to bring the insect more or less forward, or to change the direction to higher or lower. This little hinge is of the same kind as those which in diamond wheatsheaves, or in aigrettes, allow any one to bend down, or to raise the different ears of the sheaf or the aigrette.
3rd, The body of the butterfly is directly fixed on a spiral stalk ; but sometimes this spiral direction is horizontal, like as in the motion of a watch we find the pendulum laid flat. Sometimes the spiral is vertical, and of the form of those spirals which support the heads or balls of the Glanirna pins.
There are butterflies a la Psyche, of the most exquisite workmanship, of very high price.
There are, also, seen at the jewellers, trinket-boxes, which contain a beautiful flower, formed of differently-coloured gems, ornamented with branches of every kind of gold, wrought in the most delicate manner. These flowers are placed on a long pin, and are put in the hair over the front. This is a very fashionable ornament. There are roses in diamonds, the petals of which are formed of small rubies, the leaves by emeralds, and the stalks of gold.
Another jewellery ornament is a comb ornamented with a triple row of diamonds, two diamond butterflies, and single diamonds set in a bandeau, which go twice round the hair.
Golden arrows and cameos are, also, favourite head-ornaments.
The Sevigne brooches, worn in the centre of the drapery across the bust, are formed of every kind of jewellery. Combs with a double gallery, each enriched with diamonds, and bouquets of corn, in which there are twenty ears, have been seen on the head of a noble duchess. Several ladies, in full-dress, wear diamond fillets, placed on the hair with a point in front, a la Marie Stuart.
MISCELLANEOUS. To ornament a ball dress, it is of no use to call in the assistance of the jeweller; the most antique and rare bijoux are now in request, and they borrow from those who are in possession of a cabinet of curiosities, decorating themselves with those necklaces and bracelets which have been found on mummies and on skeletons.
We have written before on the whimsical fashion of silk stockings, either black or white, and the half-boots of glaring colours. But at masqued balls it is a different affair. There were seen during the last carnival, on white silk stockings, a harlequin, a punchinello, and a devil climbing up a pine-tree or a yew. In full dress, however, it is now fashionable for a lady to have her silk stockings embroidered with gold, in lozenges, which takes up all the stocking on the instep, and ascends as high as where a half-boot generally terminates. The two clocks are richly ornamented.
White gloves, both long and short, have a slight embroidery, in gold, on the back of the hand.
The half-boots worn by the French elegantes have heels about half an inch in height.
Onward to May 1829
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