Category: Dress History

SEA-SIDE DRESS

Dress of levantine or gros de Naples, of a pistachio colour, with five broad folds in bias, across the border, each headed by a narrow silk cordon of a beautiful rose colour; the corsage made a la vierge, with falling divided cape, narrow, and elegantly pointed at the corners, of the same material as the dress. French long sleeves, en gigot; the part from the wrist to the elbow, sitting close to the arm, and confined by bands corded with rose colour. The waist incircled by a band, the same material as the dress, bound with a narrow rouleau of rose coloured satin, with a rosette in front. Fine muslin petticoat trimmed with Urling’s lace. Hat of pink gros de Naples, the crown ornamented with satin, in treillage work, and full blown roses with foliage on the summit. Lappets to the hat of rose gauze, in bias. Kid shoes and gloves.

EVENING DRESS

Dress of white gauze lisse, with superb border en treillage, of the lightest shade of rose colour, each reseau edged with narrow silver cordon. The corsage made plain, beautifully marking out the contour, with a trimming round the bust to correspond with that of the skirt. – Mancherons of treillage work, uniting with the ornament round the bust. – Rich ceinture of a delicate pink silver gauze, placed on the left side. Sicilian hat of rose transparent net edged with silver. Feathers shaded with pink. The hair arranged in full curls, (on each side of the face) on which are seen a few white roses slightly intermingled with blond. Ear-rings, necklace and armlets of pearls.

FASHIONS FOR AUGUST.

Already do some of our fashionable summer retreats begin to recieve a few of those distinguished individuals belonging to the high and polished life, for whom, as the constant, and liberal patronesses of every art, the ministers of taste and fashion, are sedulously employing their carious talents, in adding to beauty by those graceful and well made garments, that give additional attraction to the contours of a fine female form; and in setting off the charms of a fasinating countenance by elegant and becoming head-dresses, which the artificial florist embellishes by the well imitated treasures of the garden, or, over which the plumassier teaches the … the feathered tribes to wave in graceful …

The various watering places begin … fill; and, this month, when the season … borough generally begins, it is expected … recieve some of our most wealth and … families to that place of fahsionable … chosen emissaries will follow where fashion … and our usual correspondents will not be … affording us every intelligence from all the … haunts of the modish world.

The bonnets in preparation for this month are peculiarly tasteful and elegant; we shall … a few for the notice of our fair readers; one is a beautiful corn flower blue of figured gros de Naples, but it is a shade lighter than the corn flower blue that is made use of in gowns or pelisses. The bonnet is lined with white and crowned with … of blue marabout feathers: the bonnet is … ornamented with white satin, and its lappets are composed of blue satin ribbon and tulle; … is cut in bias folds; all the ornaments on this … independant of the feathers, are extremely whimsical. A very beautiful carriage bonnet is … and is made of white stiffened tulle. It is ornamented on one side, with small white fanoy flowers … in stripes; the crown is trimmed with … edged with pink floize silk trimming and … en dents de loups; the interstices filled in full blown roses, and crowned with a superb … pink marabouts. A pink carriage hat is a charming head dress for a young and … female; it is of gros de Naples, with a full … ornament of broad blond, placed underneath … whence a rose bud is seen lying on the … hat is ornamented with pink gauze, roses, and lily of the valley.

A favourite home cornette is of fine blond … satin, beautifully ornamented with small … of flowers on each side: just over the te… each side. are two ornaments, in white satin, representing cornucopias, from whence peep convolvulus, rosebuds, and lillies of the valley. All the …nettes are particularly beautiful, and vary … in the richness of their materials, and the … of their ornaments, that they are fit for every … day, though, certainly, most appropriate … costume: the flowers that adorn them are …

Turbans seem much on the decline, elegant hats have taken their place, and are more appropriate to the summer, when so much time is spent in the viranda, or the garden summer pavillion; for fetes champetres there is no head-dress so truly classical: those of peach blossom satin, sprinkled with small pearls, and crowned with white feathers, are to be preferred to those that are all white.

There is but little difference in the make of the dresses since last month; the most recent novelty that we have seen, is a beautiful Polish robe dress of gros de Naples; the colour a lovely pink; the body is only partially low, and is made a la Vierge; the sleeves are short and very full, with slashes filled in with puckerings of the same material as the dress, and these puckerings are surrounded each by blond trimming. A tucker of blond stands up all round the bust. The usual rouleau ornament on the Polish robe, that seems to form the wrapping part of the skirt, and that all round the border, consists of rows formed of a kind of double rouleau of pink satin, separated in the middle by narrow silk cordon; the rich and beautiful effect of this trimming cannot be described. The sleeves of white muslin dresses for dishabille, are made en blouse, and the borders of the skirts are ornamented with flounces, set on rather scantily, and enriched with beautifully raised embroidery; the scallops, at the edge of the flounces, are worked in light and open kind of embroidery, a row of which is also introduced between each flounce. Dresses of gros de Naples continue to be trimmed at the border with bias folds like tucks.

It is expected that pelisses of fine India muslin, lined with light coloured sarcenet, will be much worn while the warm weather lasts. The variety of taste, at present, shews itself in adopting a greater mixture of colours than we have for some time witnessed; and there is also a feature of fashion less decided than we could wish; as those who have not taste or elegance, obtrude the heterogeneous mixture of discordant colours on the eye of refinement and delicacy, and the tawdry lover of finery consoles herself, in all the hues of the rainbow, at once, that she may wear anything now, for anything is the fashion. The tasteful lady, however, is never conspicuous, and is only distinguished by the sterling materials of the different articles of her attire, and the elegance and novelty of their make: she wears, as her out door costume, the beautiful petticoat of fine India muslin, embroidered magnificently, and finished at the hem with fine lace; and over that is the spencer or pelisse of the most beautiful light summer colours, generally of gros de Naples. White satin spencers, it is believed, will be worn for morning visits of ceremony, and dress carriage airings; they are a chaste and elegant article of dress, and admit a variety of colours in the bonnet, &c. worn with them.

The colours most in requisition, are, barberry-leaf-green, canary yellow, corn-flower-blue and pisachio. Pink and etherial blue, as is usual in the summer months, are universally in favour.

PARISIAN FASHIONS FROM A VARIETY OF ORIGINAL AND AUTHENTIC SOURCES

At the ball of St Maur, there were Organdy blouses, worked in a feather pattern between the bias folds round the border. The most elegant head-dresses were hats of white chip, surmounted with red poppies, or plumes. The ladies had on pointed handkerchiefs of white lace, which they kept on all the time they danced.

Bonnets of gros de Naples become daily more the mode; those of pale blue are ornamented with a very large rosette of white satin, which is placed on the top of the crown; those bonnets that are white, are lined with camel’s hair yellow, and trimmed with pinked silk, en chicoree (that is like the curled leaves of endive) the same colour as the lining, and with blond.

On fine leghorn hats are seen bunches of pinks and red poppies, and green and black poppies.

There are some hats of white gros de Naples with the brims as large as those of straw; their trimming consists of a large rosette and a branch of honey-suckles, a gold wheat-sheaf, or some sweet peas.

There are some fashionists who cover the crowns of their white chip bonnets with a net a l’Espagnole, which is formed of small meshes in crepe lisse, blue and white; the point of the net hangs down on one side, and terminates by a tuft of silk or an acorn of lace work.

The lappets of some morning caps are of ribbon chequered with blue on white: they cross under the chin, and then form a bow on the summit of the head.

Cambric pelisses button before, and are reckoned very elegant; the sleeves are composed of rows of clear and thick muslin, alternatively disposed en chevrons; sometimes these chevrons are double, two and two, and then the clear muslin is let in. Two or three pelerine capes finish the pelisse.

At the crowded audience for the benefit of Madame Theodore, there were seen many leghorn hats, ornamented with three, and some with five … feathers; they were flat, and towered … the other. At the base of these feathers … double rosette of white sarsnet ribbon. … very small dress bonnets, and dress hats … in gauze, in crape gauffree, or in crepe lisse, … they were ornamented with flowers; the … favour were roses in full bouquets, with … branch of sweet peas; the full blown roses as well as the buds, fell over the brim, nearly … edge, while the branch of sweet peas was … round the crown. There were very few … only were dressed in their own hair; there were two or three head-dresses a la neige.

Long sleeves were almost universal, clear and puffed out, with … bands worked in feather stitch. On clear muslin dresses, are worn fichus of the same material, wich large square notches round the border.

D … striped shot silks of two colours strikingly … such as Evelina blue and the colour of the marshmallow blossom, are much in favour.

… green ribbon on white chip hats, and … ribbons of the same colour, forming a … the bosom, the ends concealed under a sash of the same.

All the belts are a la Leonide, the … either of gold or polished steel; at the … blouses, and other dresses that have the sleeves en gigot, a small button in gold open work, completes the wristband.

Blue continues the most appro… colour. At some milliners are to be seen … walnut-tree coloured sarcenet, bordered … honeycomb trimming, of walnut tree and … the same trimming is used on straw coloured … nets, where the honeycomb is alternately … colour, or Evelina blue.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to September 1824

Back to July 1824

EVENING DRESS

Polish robe of lilac gros de Naples; the petticoat enriched at the border, with a full, and broad puckering of crape of the same colour, on which are laid flowers of lilac satin, representing the Iris, or purple fleur de lis. The tunique part, a la polonaise, trimmed with three rows of bias folds, each fold headed by a narrow rouleau. The sleeves short and full, and ornamented on the outside of the arm with one outspread Iris. The corsage made plain, with Bouffont drapery of lilac crape at the bust, confined in the centre by a white antique ornament, and near to the hollow of each arm by a white fleur de lis. A lilac belt with narrow white blond on each side, simply encircling the waist, in which belt is stuck a fan, with the outside sticks exquisitely wrought in filigree gold. A drapery of lilac gauze and silver lama, beautifully twisted, round the hair with a rosette on the left side, the ends lightly fringed with silver. Ear-rings and necklace of amethysts, or rubies, set in gold. Bracelets of gold filigree worn over the gloves, and fastened with one large ruby or amethyst, to suit the necklace and ear-rings. White satin sandal slippers.

BALL DRESS, OR GRAND FULL DRESS PARTY COSTUME

Dress of tulle over white satin, with double rouleaux stripes of satin in bias down the skirt. Border consisting of a broad puckering of tulle or gauze, on which are laid large leaves of satin edged by rouleaux, and in the centre of each a blue flower; two rouleaux of satin above this border, on which are full and spiral bouquets, richly clustered, of the convolvulus. Corsage of white satin, trimmed across with blond. The hair drest short at the ears, and arranged on each side of the face in clustered curls, and at the summit of the head, inclining towards the right side, in long bows; the same side ornamented with a diadem of pearls and precious gems, and the hair elegantly entwined with a drapery of celestial blue gauze, and a plumage of white feathers on the left side. Ear-rings and bracelets of diamonds. A necklace a l’Egyptienne, forming a serpent of gold, with the tail in its mouth; the eyes of the reptile of brilliants. Regal mantle cloak of celestial blue gros de Naples, finished beautifully, with cape and trimming of swan’s-down; the cloak fastened with silver chain, cordon, and tassels. White satin sandal slippers.

FASHIONS IN PREPARATION FOR JULY, 1824

Every artist employed in the various articles of decoration for female beauty, is now sedulously occupied in giving the most elegant versatility to the suggestions of taste, and imparting to them that splendour, so requisite to be observed amongst the titled, wealthy, and distinguished assemblage that now graces our metropolis.

The carriage bonnets are peculiarly beautiful and becoming; one, in particular, struck us by the ch … ciation of its colours, and the elegance of its fo … of lemon-coloured crape, lined and ornamented w … the crown is adorned in drapery, aux fers d … with pink fancy flowers of unrivalled delicacy … each interstice. A white satin hat is also well a … the morning exhibitions, or paying carriage … visits; it is a la Reine Marguerite, the whi … pearl colour kind, and is finished round the crown with gauze puffs edged with blond and white satin … a quilling of blond, so contrived as to lie on … gives the appearance of a cap under this tasteful … white crape bonnet, also, is expected to be much … this month, for the carriage: round the crown are … of gauze, interspersed with branches of lilac, … the edge of the brim are lighter puffings, between … which are little sprigs of lilac. Hats are in grea … they are in the shape of La Reine Marguerite …

The pelisses and spencers remain, at present, the same as last month; some slight innovations have been made in the latter, which we cannot regard as … ments; some of these lace behind, and thereby … the effect of an article so useful and appropriate …mer costume, especially for the young; the b… ill, and the bust is, by no means, improved; oth… kind of fichu, of the same material as the spencer, through which the arms are slipped, and the point before and behind fasten under the belt; we must mention the incongruities of fashion as well as her beauties; it … to shew the infatuation of many members in London who prefer the skill of French dress-makers to their own countrywomen: we speak this from … we are well assured these changes in the spen… …finitely for the worse, are fabrications of a foreig…

The summer pelisses for this month merit an … description. They are of the most tender and … colours; the one we saw, was not quite finished, but when completed, it will certainly be one of the most elegant out-door articles that ever came from the hands of an English Marchande de Modes. The colour was the beautiful blooming tint of the summer rose … down the sides in front, is an ornament that re… long ostrich plume; the feather prat is formed of narrow satin rouleaux, most exquisitely wrought, all done in a frame; the pipe part, up the centre of the feather, is formed of one well-wadded rouleau; … bust, and mancherons, are finished in a light, elegant, and truly correspondent style

Small dress hats are worn at the opera and at parties, with indented brims, and white plumage … over them; from the summit of the crown, hangs, on one side, a singular, but yet what forms a very beautiful ornament; it is a bunch of capsicums, made of white satin, tipped with silver; the brim of the hat is also edged with silver cordon; but this becoming head-dress looks best when finished with pearls. The toques a la neige, discovering the hair between in open work of intrinsic gems, are every way calculated for full dress; they are rather lofty and bind across the forehead, but not too low: their height is added to, by a fine plumage of white feathers; we saw two of these truly dignified head-dresses, finished for ladies who class amongst the highest order: one was composed of pearls and emeralds, which latter gem represented a row of green foliage on the summit of the edifice; the other was of Turquoise stones and pearls; but these, instead of being wrought into foliage, represented flowers. The Ceres turban is another unique and elegant head-dress; it is of white satin, entwined with pearls, and is ornamented with Marabout feathers, interspersed with ears of corn of a bright geranium colour, and others of gold. On the right side, just over the ear, are two broad leaves of white satin, one leaf standing up, the other depending; these are fastened by two gold ornaments, representing spears, which have each an oval head of coral and gold. The Cornette a la Nymph, is a charming head-dress for receiving friends at home; it is of tulle and blond, with a wreath of delicate blush roses: some of these home head-dresses, have a small ornament on the summit of the crown, like a little hat a l’Arcadie. Coloured gauze caps, with white blond next to the face, and lightly ornamented with flowers of suitable colours, are much in favour for home costume.

Amongst the new silk dresses, the greatest novelty in the manner of their trimming, is with a border of divided points, forming a kind of foliage, upright and reversed; the division in the middle of this ornament is fluted satin, put on en limacon: this dress was made low, and was of corn-flower blue; with it was worn a most elegant fichu of blond, with an indented ornament falling back, richly trimmed with white satin rouleaux and blond; each indenting confined by satin strap rings, of close and very narrow rouleaux. Another dress was of Pistachio colour, and was ornamented with antique rosaces; both these dresses were of gros de Naples. The morning dresses are of printed muslin, which is at present, more in favour that white; we speak merely of dejeune costume; silks are worn at all hours of the day, and India muslins, beautifully embroidered or trimmed with lace, are worn with spencers and pelisses, for white is indispensably requisite for those envelopes.

Ball dresses are superbly bordered with flowers, either in coloured beads, pearls, or polished steel, relieved by a splendid embroidery in coloured ribbon-work, the beautiful red lilac colour of the marshmallow blossom. When the tulle is embroidered with pearls, the corsage worn with it renders it a most chaste and beautiful attire. This corsage is of white satin, made in front a la Grecque. The part that represents the robings is open, and has tulle let in, edged round with pearls, which are relieved by the openings being edged with pink satin: on each side of these, next the front of the stomacher, is an embroidery in pearls, representing the Scotch thistle. The sleeves are of tulle, with straps to answer the part of the stomacher; the body is finished round the bosom with net, en tire bouchons, entwined with pearls.

The most approved colours are the rose of June, Pistachio, lemon colour, and lilac.

PARISIAN FASHIONS FROM A VARIETY OF ORIGINAL AND AUTHENTIC SOURCES

Several ladies who set the fashions, and young persons, wear fichus a la neige. The denomination of these fichus took its rise from Madame Pradher, in the third act of La Neige, where she wears a fichu-pelerine of muslin, cut all around in long and sharp points.

In the morning, in neglige, our fashionables were also pelisses a la Neige; these are of muslin, trimmed with lace down the sides in front, and round the border. The sleeves of these pelisses are made en blouse, and trimmed with lace at the wrist.

At the theatre Buffs, the first representation of Ricciard… …e Zoraide, several fashionables wore turbans, the cauls of which were silver brocade, and the rouleau or turban part of striped rose-coloured gauze; the plaits of the turban were laid very regularly. The hair elegantly arranged, was also seen, with a drapery of white or ponceau, for ornament, forming a diadem in front, and floating on each side of the head and shoulders, like the lappets flying loose, belonging to caps or bonnets.

Blouse dresses of India muslin have five rows of embroidery, representing the blossoms of the tree of Judea, and four bias folds; on the body are three rows of embroidery

Among the new materials for dresses, are moss muslins and Ourika muslin dresses, in open work; these light articles are particularly appropriate for blouses. All the Summer dresses except those of worked silk, are made in the blouse form; however, they begin to leave off the dull uniformity of large plaits, and the trimmings of these dresses vary like others. We have remarked several which were trimmed with three narrow flounces, set on upside down: the falling part of the flounce standing up, with the plaits tacked to prevent their falling. The bands that formed these flounces, were cut in bias, and doubled. The greater part of printed muslins are striped, as are the slight summer silks.

Hats are of striped gauze, rose-colour, lilac and white: round the crown is a puffing of satin ribbon; which being at some distance from the brim, and bending towards the border, appears like open basket work. We have seen a pretty hat of white striped gauze, surrounded with thin puffing in lilac. On one side was placed a branch of lilac, on the other a bow of lilac satin ribbon, the ends of which hung three inches over the brim of the hat. This fashion is very general. The strings fasten on one side and form a bow.

Some hats of rice straw are in the shape of a jockey cap; about the crown, which is entirely round, are placed rouleaus of satin, at equal distances.

At a performance given at the theatre de la Porta St. Martin, for the relief of the indigent, there were a great many hats of white chip. Some of these hats were crowned with a plume of white curled feathers. Others were bound with ribbon of a very conspicuous colour; either yellow, blue, or poncceau, with rows of the same coloured ribbon round the crown, and feathers of the same colour. Several hats of white Gros de Naples. camel’s hair brown, or tree of Judea, had the crowns made lower on one side than the other; they were ornamented with a very large cockade of pinked silk, placed in front. Leghorn hats were ornamented with white and red roses. Ladies who wore the pilgrim’s hat, in straw, very large, wore their hair arranged a l’Enfant: round the crown was only a simple white satin ribbon.

Spencers of silk are much worn for walking; they are many of them made in the blouse style, both in front and at the back.

Though blue is the favourite colour for riding-habits, yet there are several ladies who choose to distinguish themselves by more conspicuous colours. At the beginning of the month, a habit was remarked in the Bois de Boulofne, the petticoat of which was black, and the body was white; another lady had a nankeen petticoat, with a red body.

The prevailing fashion is a white gauze veil, fastened round the crown of the hat, and thrown back. White cotton and chip hats, or those of rice straw, have besides flowers and ribbons, rouleaux, formed by what they call levees (a technical term) made of the same material as the hat. The pilgrim’s hat, of Leghorn, is so immensely large, that the brim entirely covers the back and shoulders: a rosette of very broad ribbon, the colour a mahogany brown, walnut colour, or tree of Judea, is placed on the left side of these hats; and the puffs of the rosette are, at least, eighteen inches long. On some hats, instead of a rosette, is an aigrette, composed of seven or eight stalks or sprays, that resemble the quills of a porcupine. These stalks are striped, small as they are, with black and red, or rose colour and black, ethereal blue and white, or white and rose colour, emerald green and white, mahogany brown and white, blue and white, and jonquil and white. The small early cinnamon rose, yellow roses, and very large Provence roses are much in fashion. The dresses, at least ninety-nine out of a hundred, have all corsages a la Blouse; the sleeves very full, the upper part enormously so, two or three pelerine capes, and trimmed with four or five rows of bias folds, or flat tucks.

Dresses for the evening are made of Chinese crape, with flowers like those on the Cachemire shawls; they are trimmed with flutings bound with narrow ribbon, called a la Bayadere, which name is given to all colours in crape.

The most famous Marchandes de Modes have made some white hats of Gros de Naples, which have round the crown, three bias folds of tulle gauze, or crepe lisse, (called stuff by the French). These folds are fastened by three buckles. There are also hats of watered silk, with … brims, trimmed with puckerings and bouillons … kind of hats are ornamented with marabouts or curled ostrich feathers. The new hats of split … the form of a man’s hat, but they are entirely … the brim is bent down over the forehead and beh … cockade of white ribbon, cut in coxcombs, … ornament.

The fashionists place on their fine leghorn hats ,,, which they entwine with a band of straw, about … in breadth: this band is turned round and round, and sometimes is carried even to the summit. … hats of white chip, have, round the crown and … puffs of Gros de Naples or of ribbon, edged … Beneath one side of the brim, a band, the same … forms three buckles, which are also edged … These hats are surmounted by a plume of feather … together.

Walnut-tree brown, is a colour just come in. We have seen some hats of this colour, in Gros de Naples: they were trimmed with bows and puffings … brown. Bonnets of white crape, and others of … coloured crape, or lilac, have such large brims, … and lower part of the face are entirely concealed … the binding that borders them, is a curtain … these bonnets are ornamented with the flowers … balls, or with yellow roses.

Several dress-makers make use of coloured … blouses, on which are printed bouquets of flowers … ing to the light in which they are placed, to appear either pink, lilac, or blue: they are named … dupeuses (decievers).

Amongst the embroidery in colours, may be … the American berry. These berries, which are red, have, at one end, a black spot; the berries are embroidered on a line, but separate from each other … lines are divided by bias folds.

There are collars a la Chevaliere, which have … very decidedly marked out. Some collars are of … muslin, with a letting-in of lace; these are … six points. At the public spectacles, some very … ladies have been seen, with two broad ribb … striking colours, sewn together, and crossed … necks, at the chest from whence they spread … left, like straps, the ends being concealed under…

Ipsiboe muslins prevail for blouses, Gros … a dark shade for dress gowns; the figure … striped crosswise, shaded or Scotch plaids: … much esteemed in half dress, Almazi half … are worn as a sautoir, over the gown; but … shawls. or sometimes black, of Cyprus or … are beautifully soft: they are embroidered … patterns of large flowers, with a medallion in the … shawl, surrounded with a border.

The skirts of blouses are laid in small plai … on the frills of men’s shirts.

Gauze ribbons, figured in a pattern of large … have succeeded to the plaid ribbons, lately … vogue.

Hats of split staw are yet worn in the round … Bolivar; there are some of this shape in Spa… vary the sameness of this fashion, which last year had become general, many of these straw hats are of the most whimsical form; we have seen some, the brims of which were formed of large flutings, made of Sparterie.

White chip hats are the reigning mode; the crowns are generally ornamented with a wreath of moss-rosses; and a but of the moss-rose is placed in front, on the brim. Some white chip hats have marabouts placed on them, in a spiral manner, and under the brim, on one side, which is slightly lifted up, is placed a little tuft of marabouts; instead of these kind of feathers, it is sometimes those of the ostrich, well curled, and of three different colours. Hats of white Gros de Naples, generally white, striped with mahogany brown, and this striped silk also lines the hat.

A ribbon, which is now very fashionable, either for hats, bracers, strings, sashes, &c., is of a colour called the flame of Mount Vesuvius. A kind of sautoir is made of this ribbon, when very broad; it is pointed behind, the ends crossed over the breast, and brought under the sash.

Almost all the hats are bouillones with crape lisse, gaufree. Upon the crown is a star, a cross, or a rosette of satin edged with blonde: this ornament is repeated, in miniature, under each side of the brim.

White bonnets of sarsanet, or of Gros de Naples, are ornamented with a kind of honey-comb trimming of myrtle-green, lilac, or other fashionable colours.

The trimming on Barege dresses, that are shot, and that of striped lawn, the stripes coloured and shaded, have five bias folds, put on archwise, and forming draperies, sustained by buttons of the same material as the dress; three bias folds are sometimes repeated three times, and separated by a narrow flounce, caught up under the third bias.

With a pelisse of Gros de Naples, with a Pelerine cape, a scarf is never worn, but a collar falling over, is adopted, of embroidered tulle, and a scarf of Cashemire is hung over the arm. The favourite colour in Gros de Naples is a dark walnut-tree brown.

GENTLEMEN’S FASHIONS

Last year, it was the reigning mode to go in the same dress to a marriage as to a funeral; so much was black the order of the day. It is not so now; a man newly married should wear a blue coat, with gilt buttons, a quilted under waistcoat, or one of white velvet; small-clothes of black kersey-mere; silk stockings, with open clocks; shoes and buckles; his shirt friled and ruffled, with lace laid in plaits like those of cambric; a muslin cravat, tied in the English manner, with the ends floating, fastened by a large diamond pin.

The tailors now make the great coats very full next to the top of the arm, and tapering off scantier to the waist; (this is the kind of sleeve that is called en gigot), but the gentlemens’ sleeves are not so full as those worn by the ladies. The collar is hollowed out in the English fashion, and falls forming a kind of shawl.

There are now to be seen many boots and shoes of black deer’s leather.

Violet is now the prevailing colour; coats, great coats, pantaloons, under waistcoats. In the mean time componium colour, or auricular brown, is fashionable for great coats among men of ton; white satin under waistcoats, quilted … diamonds; they are also worn entolinette, in light grey, with very narrow stripes of pale pink. The form of gilets, or under waistcoats, is that of a shawl, and both sides alike.

The pantaloons form a gaiter, and are hollowed out at the ankle, but almost imperceptibly. Linen, with satin stripes, is the newest article for pantaloons. White beaver hats begin to be worn.

The riding-dress of a gentleman is green, with gilt buttons, velvet collar, and the coat cut like a hunting-dress. The hats are round, and have low growns and narrow brims: those who are addicted to anglomania, wear the crown rather pointed, and the brims of a moderate size.

Venetian pantaloons are much admired, they are of woollen manufacture, and are striped with the same colour.

Grey beaver hats, silk beaver, or straw, are worn in the morning.

Boots, with white pantaloons, loose, and not fastened under the foot; with these, shoes are often preferred.

Very few pantaloons of nankeen, but ticking and striped cotton, the ground white, and the satin stripes very narrow, generally blue or yellow, with a little cloud of lilac.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to August 1824

Back to June 1824

GRAND COSTUME, OF RECEPTION DRESS.

Grecian robe of pink satin, with white facings down the skirt, ornamented with silver frivolite bouillon, and superb silver tassels; round the border of the robe, a rich bouillon of silver frivolite covers the hem, and is surmounted by a row of white marabout feather trimming, the plumes separate and upright. The petticoat is of white tulle, with four rows of puckering of the same material; the puckers confined by diamond work of silver frivolite. The corsage is of the same material as the robe, and is an improvement on the Gallo-Greek style; the antique robings being formed of rouleaux of pink satin and blond; sleeves to correspond. Hans Holbein toque of white satin and blond, studded with silver, and surmounted by a rich plume of ostrich feathers in different directions. Earrings, necklace, and bracelets of diamonds.

SPANISH BALL DRESS.

An Asturias robe of transparent net, faced with cerulean blue, the sides of the robe embroidered in floss silk, or applique, with white regal ornaments a la Bourbon – bows terminated with silver aiguillettes, fasten the robe in front; a rich white satin petticoat trimmed round with a ruche of tulle. The body of the robe is tastefully arranged with a rich Vandyke blond-lace, which terminates at the waist. Sleeves of tulle made tight to the arm, surmounted by a short sleeve of blue and white satin in Moorish indentings – sleeves slashed round the arm with blue satin, and Spanish satin cuffs. An Andalusian toque composed of blue satin and white tulle corded with silver, and a silver net, forming one side of the head-dress; ostrich feathers, a l’Espagnole — sandal slippers of white satin.

PREVAILING FASHIONS THE LATTER END OF MAY, AND THOSE IN PREPARATION FOR JUNE, 1824

In addition to our numerous resources, we have been indulged with the inspection of several very elegant articles of female attire, by one of the most approved Marchande de Modes at the Court end of the town, whose taste has long been regarded by the greater part of the nobility and gentry, as the criterion of fashion, and classic elegance.

The small Parisian mob or cornette, either of fine lace or blond, according to the time of day, yet reigns the favourite head dress for in-door costume. These little tasteful coeffures are remarkable for the beautiful flowers with which they are surmounted; the half wreaths are composed of the most choice species of the frutrix, the single holly-oak blossom, and the small Guelder rose: when the queen of the parterre, the rich Provence rose is in the wreath, there are seldom any other kind of flowers, and the damask rose has only its deep tints relieved by sprigs of Portugal laurel, clematis, jessamine, or myrtle blossoms.

The turbans for evening dress are very costly; one in particular, light as well as rich, excites universal admiration: it is of tulle, ornamented all over in treillage work of narrow white satin on which is a row of … puffing, en coquilles, of white satin, forms … edged with ruby-colour, and in the centre, over head, is a large star, formed of Glauvina pins. … turban, of the coronet kind, is elegantly chaste; … entirely of white satin, profusely trimmed with pearls … the coronet part, depend pear pearls, of immens … a plume of short Marabout feathers, plays above; any long plumage would obscure the intrinsic appeal of a head-dress that can only be worn by a lady of great wealth or high rank. The most superb of them we have yet seen, has just been finished for a lady, of the latter description it is of peach-coloured tulle, with satin ornaments in stripes, underneath, adorned with pearls a l’antique; in order to display these ornaments the hat stands off very much from the face; the crown profusely scattered over with pearls and superb … white ostrich feathers, with a small plume of … at their base, finish this magnificent, and novel head dress.

Fancy, ever on the alert to bring out something new, produced a very curious and whimsical head-dress, which, nevertheless, wears on its form the stamp of high … to a pretty face, and where there is to be found … distinguee, indicative of true style, it can only be becoming. It has the appearance of a triple hat toque, the … of pale pink satin, turned up and down in various ways and united, in a manner, by a transparent caul of tulle: about and underneath the carious little … white Marabout feathers; these are lightly and … disposed, and the whole forms a unique and … head-dress for the opera.

A dress of coloured Chinese crape, of a dark … seems much in favour with ladys of rank, either as … costume, or a carriage out-door dress. It is made … high, is faced down the front with satin the … robe, and Brandenburghs, with splendid tassells … the bust, and are continued on each side of … down to the feet; a superb lace colerette finishes … throat. A dress of Canary yellow gros de Naples is much worn at social dinner parties; the body is … plain and simple, a la Vierge, and the sleeves … with but a slight fulness in the mancherons; the … enriched by a beautiful ornament of pluche de soie in bias stripes of two different colours, purple and … about two shades darker than the dress; the purple in a light colour, and that, rather of the …

Muslin and cambric petticoats, of the most exquisite embroidery, are now much in request, with pelisses in gros de Naples, either plain or figured; the latter prevail most in pelisses, but spencers, of the most … and novel kind, are chiefly of plain silks, and better for the elegant manner in which they are now ornamented. We shall only mention two we have seen, just … for ladies who rank high in fashionable life. … gros de Naples, the colour a beautiful pink; it is … at the bust, with numerous straps, entwined in each other, and forming a treillage work, that appears to stand out, distinct from the plain part; but it should be seen to be properly appreciated; the mancherons are finished in the same manner; and the trimming at the wrists corresponds, but more lightly and simply. The other spencer was of a fine and etherial blue; and the bust was ornamented with embossed vine leaves, wrought about with tendrills, in brocade embroidery, executed in the most exquisite manner.

The Indian or Japanese rose-red, for pelisses, was still in favour the latter end of May; becoming as it is to almost every complexion, it seems, however, ill-suited to the refulgency of a summer’s sun; it is still seen on very distinguished females, but will, no doubt, very soon be laid aside; the pelisses of gros de Naples, of this colour, are ornamneted with a representation of oriental foliage, worked in narrow rouleaux, across the bust and down each side in front, and give to this out-door envelope a truly classical appearance: the beautiful light and cheerful colours for summer, require but little trimming, and what they have, is extremely simple: the diversity of ornament seems most displayed across the bust and at the mancherons: the collars chiefly stand up and turn down again; but this rule is not without exception; some collars are broad, pointed perceptibly at each corner, and fall over the shoulders. The Cachemire shawls have no longer white grounds; the favourite colours for the ground-work are bright gold-colour, or olive green; the borders are finely variegated, and they are all of the square kind.

A favourite material for carriage bonnets is white tulle over stiffened net: one we find particularly elegant; it is ornamented with a full half-wreath of flowers, representing the Scotch thistle, and sprigs of Highland heath; and these delicate blossoms, as well as the thistles, are all made of feathers; to the flower of the thistle, this material gives a semblance that may be mistaken for nature. Figured gros de Naples bonnets are also much in request; they are of various colours, but when of pink, they are generally crowned with full bouquets of roses. A carriage dress-hat, for paying morning visits of ceremony, is of pink crepe lisse, with separate pink feathers of the Marabout playing beautifully over the front. Bonnets for morning exhibitions and the public promenades, are of gros de Naples; the favourite colour a light lavender-grey, lined with white; this bonnet is ornamented with blossoming branches of the mezereon.

We cannot forbear drawing the attention of the members of the fashionable world to the unrivalled excellency of the flowers made this season; art is so closely taught to imitate nature, that a superficial observer cannot distinguish them from the choicest treasures of the garden; they are formed of fine cambric, and some, where the texture and appearance of the flower will permit, are of feathers: there are flowers, that like a watch, require several different hands in their composition; the wealthy, therefore, by patronising this delightful art, while they adorn themselves with that ornament, the most appropriate to female beauty, are encouraging and aiding to support, the sons and daughters of ingenuity and industry.

The material chiefly admired for ball dresses, is of tulle with a broad border of fancy flowers, wrought in … beads: the corsages are light and generally … straps of white satin, edged with narrow rouleaux laid across the bust over tulle; blond ornamnet … added, and sometimes form the short sleeve, which is generally surmounted by a flower or trimming to … border on the skirt: where the ball is very splendid, … ladies in grande costume, the favourite trimming is … bullion, now called frivolite bouillon, from the novel manner in which it is twisted.

The colours most approved are pink, Canary yellow, lavender, and light lavender-grey.

PARISIAN FASHIONS FROM A VARIETY OF ORIGINAL AND AUTHENTIC SOURCES

“We have lost every thing, my dear friend,” said the youthful Emma, the moment I entered her dwelling last …day morning; “we have lost everything: except our nour.” — “To have invented the most graceful trimming for a dress, that could have appeared this spring,” replied … as I saw displayed, on a sofa, the pretty dress, intended to be figured away in at the Thuilleries, “and of which, we today, shall set the fashion; in effect, nothing can be more simple, nothing can be more elegant, although for these … first days, we have distinguished several dresses as remarkable for the brilliancy of their colours, as for their novelty. How much do robes of different colours, such as rose, blue, lilac, and yellow, predominate over white? But those colours are many of them shot; this pale lilac and iron-gray, become opal, and this seems the favourite trimming of the …. Canary yellow, with a slight tinge of pistachio, is called primrose. Ingenious effect of human skill! By the most innocent stratagems, the art is discovered of giving to former fashions all the charm of novelty.”

The corsage-blouse, (or drawn body,) is now formed of large flat plaits, which surrounding the waist, seem drawn together by the belt. The collars of pelisses are cut … points, and these points are edged with narrow fringe and puffed beading; at the front of the corsage are two or three flat plaits, which are carried down the length of the petticoat, leaving a space between them about two hadns in breadth; on each side of the last plait in front, are placed ribbons, of which are formed large bows, that are set at equal distances down the middle of the skirt.

Pelerines and coleretts are round, whether a la … (which is the name given to those collars which are slashed and bordered with plaiting of lace or muslin,) they are worn alike over high or low dresses. The sleeves are wide, and a number of little wristbands, very close to each other, …cend almost as high as the elbow. We counted more than twelve of these wristbands on a dress of opal-coloured Cachmire gauze, lined with slight silk of the same colour; the body of this elegant dress was in flat plaits; at the bottom of the petticoat, about a hand’s breadth apart, were three rows of double quilling, in gauze. There is every appearance of this being a favourite trimming this summer.

The greatest novelty are blouses of Florence silk or Marceline, with tucks, and a row of embroidery, in silk, between each tuck; the embroidery represents branches of blue-bells, and coquelicots, in wreaths.

Rice-straw is much in favour for hats, perhaps, because these hats are generally worn by very young or very pretty women. Their form is round, and this shape is the most fashionable, whether the hat is of gauze or gros de Naples. The various ways of ornamenting them is a difficult task to explain; we must first undertake to account for the versatility of taste, and the caprice of fashion. The Ipisboe hat is, indeed, original, whether we regard its shape or the whimsical association of its colour with its ribbons, or the three aigrettes, which surmount it, which are red, yellow, and black.

We have distinguished some beautiful hats of Canary yellow gauze, ornamented with full bouquets of blue-bells; these flowers are spread out in such a way, as to cover a great part of the crown in front, and some of them droop on one side, over the brim. We have remarked also, some hats of straw, or of gros de Naples, where a single flower, with a thousand leaves, is placed in front: this new flower gives to these hats an extreme elegance and grace. Some hats are adorned with all sorts of verdure, in flowers and foliage made of feathers, particularly four little pine-balls, and white thistles.

ANOTHER DESCRIPTION OF FASHIONS.

Except Leghorn hats, which they dare not cut away too much, on account of their value, there is scarce a hat that has any brim behind, and, indeed, very little at the sides; this brim neither stands up nor falls, so that the face remains discovered. The fashion being uniform, it is the ornament above and round the crown of these hats to which the chief attention is paid in our Magasins de Modes. Sometimes it is a corded ribbon, in large puffs, placed in bias, from the top of the crown to where the brim commences; sometimes round this crown, it is a pipe of ribbon, rolled in a spiral manner, with a fringe hanging from it. One of the most distinguished trimmings for a Leghorn hat, consists in a branch of the peach-tree, with its blossoms, and a few little peaches just formed: it is placed in front of the crown, and comes forward a little way on the brim. Some straw-hats are of a square form, and are broad in the brims. The trimmings on Sparterie, or open chip-hats, consist in cockle-shell puffings of taffety, edged with a stripe of Sparterie. Bonnets of taffety, and those of gros de Naples, either in white lilac, or myrtle-green, are trimmed with puckerings, and are as general as they were last year.

Light coloured spencers of gros de Naples are much worn; some are made with loose bodies, en blouse, and with very full sleeves; others with strait backs, like a riding-habit; some are ornamented with Brandenburghs, laced across, and have a falling collar. A muslin petticoat, with three bias folds at the border, is worn with spencers.

On blouses of Organdy silk, are seen rose-buds, with leaves of two shades of green; or, sometimes, purple lilacs, with foliage. Others are trimmed with double SS, and have sweet peas between the SS. The manner of placing the SS depends on taste; some are upright, others incline, others are cross-wise, and the sweet-peas are sometimes round, sometimes long. Green foliage, in embroidery, very often represents the wall-ivy.

From the Journal des Dames

The colours most admired for silks by the fashionables are American green, peacock’s-neck green, and the River Jordan; this latter colour is a dark grey. If a bonnet is of this colour, a plume of feathers float over it, the colour of the tree of Judea, or ribbons of that colour.

The first time L’Auberge Supposee was performed there was a very full audience at the Theatre Feydeau … elegant ladies wore white hats, ornamented with … of the acacia, or dress caps with heath in … hats were of cane. A Hungarian plime, made of … feathers, of rose colour, lilac, and white, formed … of some white hat made of cotton.

At the benefit of Madame Barroyer, at Les … a hat of white crape, trimmed with blond; the … square, and was formed of white satin ribbons; … feathers overshadowed the crown, and part of the … white chip hat was surmounted by a plume of … three colours, white, … and blue. There … turban-toques of Lyones silk, these were of … and worked in with gold.

White gowns are yet but little worn, either at the … or the promenades. B… silks, lawn, cirsakas… and printed muslins (principally checked) predominate.

Barege dresses are made in blouse; the sleeves … pelisses of jaconot muslin … of the bark of trees … or two pelerine capes ane are fastened with … from the top to the bottom.

Half-handkerchiefs of black lace have appeared since the warm weather came in. Silk scarfs also are worn … saca brown, or of marshmallow blossom colour. … are ornamented by a broad layer of yellow satin.

From another Number of the Journal des Dames

In the place of ribbons it is now the mode to … lappets of crape or or gauze to tie down the hats; … placed underneath the brim, are cut in bias, … ribbon, or trimmed with blond, and … rosette.

Some hats or white chip are worn turned up on one side; they are ornamented with a full plume of … feathers, or a bunch of early roses, and leaves … the form of a packet of feathers.

Hats of Sparterie (a material very much reser… willow) are trimmed with a very broad ribbon) of … brown. The fichu of Sparterie that ornaments th… these hats and the front is bound with ribbon. … are also ornamented, sometimes with blue gauze … a fan round the crown, and which serves to su… puffs of a rosette in front.

Several Leghorn hats are simply ornamented with a satin rosette, placed on one side, the ends of … fringed.

The crowns of transparent hats, either of gauze … are trimmed round the crown with crape in plaits; … of a horse-shoe. These hats are ornamented be… blue-bells.

On split straw hats large bouquets of various flowers are worn, interspersed with gauze and detached … yellow jasmine.

Little dress caps are ornamented with flowers … petals, and are black at the bottom of the cup, … a heart or a black point; these are called Ourika, and every mixture of red and black, or black and red, is called a l’Ourika.

Some straw bonnets have crowns that are higher on the right side than on the left.

The new dresses and pelisses, which have pele… have a collar formed of two rouleaux; there is … at the top of the sleeve.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onwards to July 1824