This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.
FANCY COSTUME. NO. 43. A FEMALE TOXOPHOLITE OR ARCHER.
This graceful figure has the face turned towards the mark she is taking aim at, and the bow in the left hand is in a perpendicular position, and held out strait towards the mark. The arrow is brought well to the ear, and not the eye, on the left side of the bow under the string; the forefinger of the left hand passes over it; by the other hand the nock is placed in the string at the proper place, with the cock-feather uppermost; when this is done, the forefinger of the left hand is removed and placed round the bow; while the left hand is raising the bow, the right should be drawing the string with two or three fingers only, and not the thumb; as soon as it reaches the head it should be let loose, for fear of its breaking.
We refer our readers to the elegant position represented in an engraving: to attain this requires particular attention; for nothing is more ridiculous than bad positions in archery.
The dress is a Kendal, or Forrester’s-green gros de Naples, with two flounces scalloped, and pinked at the edges: each flounce headed by an elegant wreath of oak-leaves in raised embroidery, or in embossed foliage of green satin. The body is made tight to fit the shape, with the bust very beautifully embroidered or ornamented to correspond with the heading of the flounces. The sleeves are long, and nearly fitting the arm, with a full Maneberon sleeve at the top, slashed in the Spanish fashion, and slashes filled in by white satin.
The Bowman’s cuff of rose-colour and green finishes the sleeve at the wrist. And the dress, which is made high, has a falling collar at the throat of rich point lace. Round the waist is the Archer’s belt, to which is attached the spare arrows. This is of rose-coloured Morocco and fine Woodstock leather. On the opposite side of the waist are two splendid tassels, as ornaments of Kendal-green. The Toxopholite hat, buttoned up in front with a gold loop, is of black or purple velvet, crowned with white plumage sometimes, intermingled with green feathers. The half-boots are of Kendal-green kid.
MORNING DRESSES. – (Centre Figure.)
A pelisse of gros de Naples, the colour, that of lilac shot with white. It fastens down the front with a narrow rouleau and a broad bias fold. The body is made slightly en gerbe, and is surmounted next the throat by a triple French ruff, formed of Parras lace. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille, confined at the wrists by an embroidered cuff of tulle, surmounted by a full ruffle of broad lace. The cap is of broad blond, turned back from the face, and the hair confined across the forehead by a net-bandeau of pink satin. Under the border of the cap, and lying on the hair, is placed, on the right side, a bouquet of flowers, consisting of a large full-blown Provence rose and branches of fern: over the left temple is a small bouquet, formed of the pink flowers named Venus’s Fly-trap, with their green foliage.
SECOND MORNING DRESS. (First Figure.)
A dress of striped muslin; the stripes tourterelle, with a delicate pattern of colours at one edge, on a buff ground. Two flounces of clear muslin form the border on the skirt: these are pointed a la Vandyck, and are bordered by a broad strip of the same material as the dress. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille, and are confined at the wrist by a plain narrow cuff The bonnet is of night-shade purple, ornamented with puffs of broad ribbon, the half of which is of that colour, the other half of olive-green, figured over in a running pattern of black. In front of the right side of the crown is a large puff of night-shade purple gros de Naples, of which material the bonnet is made. A scarf shawl of richly-embroidered muslin is worn with this dress, and drawn, at the top of the bust, through a puffing of ribbon of tourterelle-colour. The shoes are of black corded gros de Naples, tied en sandales.
A CHILD’S DRESS.
A tunic and petticoat of fine cambric or jaconot muslin. The border of the petticoat next the feet, and the two sides of the tunic in front, worked in small open diamonds, and terminated by a narrow lace at ths edges. Six small tucks surmount this trimming, forming a border round the skirt, both of the tunic and petticoat. The body is embroidered in the same diamond work as that which forms the border next the shoe, and finished by fichu-robings, edged with narrow lace, from whence commence the falling sides of the tunic. A bow of rose coloured ribbon, with a delicate pattern in penciling, ornaments each shoulder, and a sash of the same kind of ribbon encircles the waist. The bonnet is of Leghorn, in the cottage shape, lined with rose-coloured satin. Pantaloons, the same as the dress, draw tight over each ancle; and the half-boots are of kid of mignionette-leaf green.
MORNING AND DINNER DRESS.
MORNING DRESS (Centre Figure.)
A dress of elegantly .printed muslin, the ground a pale tourterelle; with pencil stripes of delicate foliage, in black. A trimming of a very novel kind surrounds the border of the skirt, consisting of very broad striped muslin, white and pink; the stripes parted by a Greek pattern, in pencil: the flounce is finished next the feet in points which take a bias direction towards the left foot; these points are also edged by a Greek pattern, and above them is seen a most delicate pattern of flowers pencilled in outline. The head of the flounce is finished a la Grecque. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, and are confined at the wrists by broad bracelets of gold, studded and fastened by turquoise-stones. A beautiful Canezou Pelerine, of fine India muslin, conceals the body of the dress, and has two short ends brought under the sash, which is of tourterelle coloured ribbon, brocaded with black in a Greek pattern. The Canezou is trimmed round with a double trimming of muslin edged with fine narrow lace, and headed by a broad, fluted, trimming, formed of the same materials; a triple ruff of lace encircles the throat. The bonnet is of tourterelle-coloured gros de Naples, trimmed under the brim with points of ribbon, half pink, half white; the white painted with light green foliage; other trimmings adorn the crown of the bonnet, of the same material as the bonnet itself, interspersed by puffs of ribbon, the same as the points under the brim; strings of which ribbon tie the bonnet down under the chin on the right side. The shoes are of touterelle-kid, tied en sandales.
FIRST DINNER DRESS.
A dress of a very superior kind of sarsenet, named Chaly de Perse. A broad hem surrounds the border, headed by foliage ornaments of the same colour and material, which represent large leaves lying in bias over each other, and each edged round with fringe: a rich cordon of silk surmounts these ornaments. The body is made plain, and fitting tight to the shape, with sleeves a l’Amadis; the gauntlet cuff coming nearly as high as to the elbow. At the wrists are antique points of white satin, edged with narrow blond. From the back depends a double pelerine, the same as the dress, both bordered by fringe: it is left quite open in front, and the ends which are short, are past through a belt of white watered ribbon, fastened in front with a rich gold buckle. The colour of this unique and novel dress is a bright Aurora. The dress hat worn with it is of fine, white chip, ornamented both beneath and above the brim, with branches of vine leaves and white flowers; strings of white ribbon, the half painted in spots of different colours float over the shoulders. The shoes are of pea-green satin, and the stockings of silk, the same colour.
SECOND DINNER DRESS.
A dress of white Organdy, with a broad hem in bias round the border, finished by languettes, alternately folded down, and placed erect; under these at the head of the hem, and on each languette is worked a beautiful pattern in embroidery; and above the whole, embroidered on the skirt of the dress, are detached bouquets of flowers; the body is in the Circassian drapery style; and the sleeves a l’imbecile, opened down the front of the arm, and closed again by buttons of gold; very broad bracelets confine the sleeves at the wrist, of white and gold enamel, fastened by an agate set in gold. Above the bracelets are embroidered languettes, corresponding with those on the skirt, a bow of embroidered Organdy is placed on each shoulder, the hat is of a deep and bright rose colour, in crape, and is trimmed with blond under the brim, with a rosette of rose-coloured ribbon over the right temple; the crown is ornamented also with bows of rose ribbon, and white blond, with two beautiful esprit feathers , the ear-pendants are of wrought gold, and a most splendid necklace of differently coloured jewels encircles the neck. The shoes are white satin, tied en sandales.
FIG. 1. – Back view of the hat on the figure of the first dinner dress.
FIG. 2. – Back view of the hat in the second dinner dress ; this hat is of white crape.
A WALKING DRESS.
A dress of buff-coloured muslin, with a narrow flounce of white muslin next the feet, over this is a broad flounce ornament cut in deep square notches, the inside of which, notches are jagged en sue. This is also of white muslin, and it is bound round, and surmounted by green satin rouleau binding. The corsage is made high, up to the throat, and down each side of the bust is a triple ornament of white muslin, fluted, which forms a kind of fichu robing down each side, while it gracefully marks out the contours; the waist is encircled by a belt of the same colour and material as the dress, fastened on one side with a lozenge- shaped buckle of gold. A triple ruff of lace encircles the throat; the sleeves are a l’imbecile, and are confined at the wrists by narrow bracelets of white and gold enamel; the hat is of white gros de Naples, ornamented with puffings of the same, and white Gueldre roses. Under the brim are points of ribbon, terminated by small rosettes, consisting of one loop and one end. The hat ties under the chin with a mentonniere of blond, and strings of broad white ribbon, brocaded, float over the shoulders. The half-boots worn with this dress are Nankeen.
BACK VIEW (in half-length) OF A WALKING DRESS.
A dress of amber-coloured poplin, made partially low; a broad hem surrounds the border of the skirt, headed by three narrow rouleaux of Modena-red satin; the body is ornamented at the back and front, with pointed lappels, finished at the edge by Modena-red rouleau binding. The sleeves are a l’imbecile, and terminate at the wrist by a tight cuff of embroidered muslin, surmounted by a lace ruffle; a fichu of white satin is worn under this dress, surmounted by a very full ruff of blond, and under this is an alliance of blue and white. The hat is of Leghorn, trimmed with straw-coloured brocaded ribbon, and crowned by straw-coloured plumage.
A dress of primrose coloured taffety, with a broad flounce of blond, of a very rich pattern round the border; this is headed by a much narrower flounce, which is surmounted by a cordon of primrose silk; the body is a l’enfant, with a narrow cape of white satin, pointed in front; this is trimmed with narrow blond. The sleeves are short and en beret. A dress hat of white chip has a bow under the brim, on the right side of lilac and white ribbon sewn together, strings of which float over the shoulders; an elegant wreath of flowers falls over the edge of the brim on the right side, which is elevated, and this wreath consists of vine-leaves and their tendrils, with a few small bunches of the purple grape, relieved by yellow roses; on the left side, above the brim, is a bouquet formed of a yellow rose, a bunch of purple grapes, and a few vine leaves.
Fig. 1. – A cap for demi-parure of broad blond, triple borders of which turn back, and a beautiful group of flowers, in a half wreath, is placed next the hair; the flowers consist of full blown roses and trefoil.
FIG. 2. – A back view of the same cap.
Fig. 3. – A back view of a dress hat of white chip, the same as that on the figure representing an evening dress. This hat is, however, trimmed with pink and white ribbon, and the wreath is formed of that elegant little rose, called “Rose of Paradise,” or the cinnamon-rose, which forms half wreaths, as it blooms on its drooping branches.
[We have procured at considerable trouble and expense the following Coiffures, which are descriptive of the Fourth Plate. We trust they will please our readers. This will be followed by others equally novel and interesting.]
THE LAST NEW PARISIAN COIFFURES.
HEAD-DRESS, No. 1. – Coiffure chez soi; or, HOME COSTUME.
This head-dress is composed of two bows, a comb and a braid of five plaits. The bows, or loops, are placed on the right and left of the head; the first, opposite to the right ear, is placed on where it fastens, the convex part leaning over the right temple; the second is placed over the ring which it forms, and is opposite the left eye, towards which its convex part is turned. The first of the loops is behind the comb, and the second in front; the braid commences behind the loop on the left, and rises to the summit of the head, fixing itself under the loop on the right: the comb is fixed over where the hair is collected together. The hair in front is arranged in two loops and in curls. The loops, reclining on what supports them, are lengthened on each side of the forehead, presenting a convex portion; they are then brought towards the ear. The hair, which is curled, though above this species of bandeau, seems to come from the interior.
REMARKS ON THE ABOVE HEAD-DRESS. – A lady, when at home, should always have her hair arranged in a very simple manner, but neatly, so that there may be no stray hairs separated from the others; a little oil antique, will take off the dryness and cause them to adhere to each other. Hair which does not keep together is attended with serious inconvenience, especially at table. The bows behind should be equally craped, or frizzed, and the curls having also been frizzed should be fastened by a short comb not above three inches in length, the teeth being introduced into the other hair.
HEAD-DRESS, No. 2. – Coiffure a la Grecque; or, GRECIAN HEAD-DRESS.
This head-dress, which is generally adopted at concerts, is composed of one loop, a braid, and a twisted cord surrounded by pearls; the bow or loop is placed where the hair is braided; the superior part is detached from it, and is very much elevated; then comes the twisted cord, which surrounds the head-dress inclining towards the left side. The braid forms a half circle on the right side, and in the interior of the cord. From the interior of the head-dress issue points of hair, falling in corkscrew ringlets.
REMARKS. – Although the above head-dress is simple, it is, nevertheless, pretty; the hair should be first tied with a piece of cordon, and very tightly that not one hair may escape. Should that happen, a lady would have the mortification of finding the head-dress fall of itself. The points of the hair both behind and in front should be put in papers and pinched with hot irons; when the papillotes are cold, they should be taken out, and divided in three portions. Then take that in the centre, and after having frizzed it, make a loop where the hair is tied together: it should not be fastened with pins, but by the ends of the cordon, which are left, then fasten it in the same place where the pin would have past. For a tall person this loop should be less elevated than for one of only a middle size.
The tresses of five plats, should be divided into five branches; and when they have received the preparation of a little creme d’Alibour, or, Huile Antique, two should be taken in the right hand and three in the left, separating them with the latter and the second fingers of each hand: then must be taken the extremity of the right; the thumb and the first finger of the left hand, will receive it to augment the number on the left side, and it will be then easy to make the braid of four plats.
HEAD-DRESS, No. 3. Coiffure de Bal ; or, BALL HEAD- DRESS, WITH FLOWERS.
This consists of three loops and a braid of five plats: the first loop is placed where it fastens, just above the right eye, the convex part turned towards the lachrymal corner; the second, at a small distance from the first, reposes entirely on the ring it makes, opposite to the line of the nose, its convexity looking towards the left eye; the third loop, which is the highest, is placed beneath the helmet part of the head. The braid commences at the interstice between the first and the second loop; to its point of departure it rises in a half circle, and, presenting its flat part to the right eye, it fixes itself at the back of the comb. This head-dress should be ornamented with flowers tastefully disposed.
This is a simple coiffure, but it is for full dress, yet should only be rendered brilliant by freshness and grace; no diamonds, no precious stones, no ornaments of value; flowers only should relieve the colour of the hair, and they should adorn it but sparingly.*
*All colours are not adapted equally to all complexions; they may not accord with the colour of the skin, or the shade of the hair. A brown woman should give the preference to those ornaments which communicate to her features an appearance of gentleness. Disparity of colours will give to the prettiest face a hard-featured appearance, which is sufficient to destroy every charm. An angelic countenance, with fair hair, should wear rose-coloured ribbons, and flowers of a delicate tint.
If the complexion is ruddy, green may be resorted to. Very small stalks, and jagged leaves; produce the best effect.
HEAD-DRESS, No. 4 – Coiffure de Bal, OR, A BALL HEAD-DRESS, WITH A WREATH OF FLOWERS.
This head-dress is composed of four loops, and a tress of seven branches; the first of the loops is opposite to the right eye, bending and inclining towards the temple on that side; the second corresponds to the line of the nose, and its convexity turns towards the interior corner of the left eye; the third appears above this, placed straight over the helmet part, it turns its convexity towards the left, and discovers in front a part of its interior; at length the fourth is opposite the exterior corner of the left eye, and presents its convexity to the temple on the same side. The tress placed on the right, marks out behind the loops a kind of half-circle. The flat part of this tress is in front of the loops. A wreath, bent in the form of an S reclining, is the ornament on this head-dress; after having passed under the tuft on the right, it comes out above that on the left, and terminates at the helmet.
A wreath ought never to be put on straight: too much symmetry is the enemy of elegance; it is the acme of good taste for a wreath to be placed on one side; in the head-dress above described, it inclines towards the right; it is bent in the form of an S reclining, in this manner. Place it over the front, and before the bows; on the right side it will fall over the forehead, a short distance from the eye-brow. On the left, the wreath will mark out a kind of arch above the cluster of hair corresponding with the eye. If it is sufficiently long, the wreath may be fixed with pins behind the twisted hair.
When the throat is well turned, it should be displayed to advantage: a pretty throat has such attractions, and its perfections are always distinguished, for they are very rare.
It is one of the first qualifications required in a hair-dresser to set off the throat as much as possible: if it is too long he should dress the hair below the nape of the neck; if the contrary, he should draw it up as tight as possible.
There are some persons who preserve some short curls which they separate from the long hair, to ornament the neck; this fashion seldom has a good effect; we should never advise the adoption of it, unless where the hair curled naturally, and that there was an absolute necessity of resorting to this mode. Sometimes they bring forward curls of hair which have been suffered to grow, in order to form behind each ear a corkscrew ringlet, which, falling over the throat, diminishes its natural length.
But all those trifling methods are in very bad taste. Beautiful throats would be less rare, if parents would be more sparing of blisters, setons, and all those outward applications now so much resorted to for the most trifling maladies, and which all children are subject to. How often, to cure a young girl of an eruption which was not likely to leave any traces of it, or a weakness in the eyes of no kind of consequence, or other trifling indispositions of the same nature, has a young creature been tormented by having a blister put on her throat, which, after having caused her a hundred times more pain than that illness they were trying to cure, left a scar and discolouration on her skin, which could never be effaced, and which would be a cruel mortification to her when arrived at an age when she wished to charm.
HEAD-DRESS, No. 5 – Coiffure de Bal Pare. MANNER OF ARRANGING THE HAIR FOR A DRESS-BALL, WITH FEATHERS.
This head-dress is composed of ornamental combs, feathers, and five loops of hair; the first loop corresponding with the right eye, the second with the interior corner of the same eye, the third is placed behind at the right of the summit of the head, the fourth opposite the interior corner of the left eye, and the fifth opposite the exterior corner of the same eye, presenting to the temple, on that side, its convex part.
The comb is fixed at the anterior part of the head, before the loops, on the right side, the left being elevated.
The feathers, six in number, are placed as follows: the first to the left of the second loop, the tip falling forwards; the second between the first and the second loop, the tip falling in the same manner; the third before the right corner of the comb; the fourth between the first and the third puffs, or loops; this is the longest feather, and waves down as low as the shoulder; the fifth is placed opposite the left side of the comb, between the second and fourth loop; this feather is equally long, and overshadows the third and fourth loops; the tip reclines over behind towards the right; the sixth feather is placed between the third and fourth loops, the tip turning over in front.
The comb worn with this head-dress cannot be too richly ornamented, since it is the principal ornament.
HEAD-DRESS No. 6 – Coiffure de Cour; OR COURT HEAD- DRESS, WITH AIGRETTES OF JEWELS, LAPPETS, AND A COMB.
This charming head-dress is composed of three puffs or loops of hair, three aigrettes, lappets, and an ornamental comb; the gallery of this comb is composed of an assemblage of pearls forming bouquets of flowers. The first of the loops of hair inclines slightly towards the right, and is placed opposite to the exterior corner of the right eye, its convexity inclining to the temple on the same side: it is of a moderate height; the second, the upper part of which reclines towards the left, is placed right on the summit; it is more elevated than the two others; then comes the third, opposite to the exterior corner of the left eye, to which its convex part presents itself; this is lower than that placed on the summit; it is, however, higher than the first.
The aigrettes are placed in the following manner: the first over the right temple, at the lower part of the loop; the second on the left side and at the summit of the second loop; it is placed upright; the third, placed on the left of the last loop, takes its direction towards the left side of the head, in passing over the second loop.
The lappets are formed into puffs mingled amongst those of the hair, one between the first and second, a second behind that, and a third behind the aigrette, which is placed on the left of the second loop of hair.
The comb, placed before the first and second loops, inclines towards the right, its corner on that side being opposite to the first loop, its centre before the second, its left corner behind the third, and this corner is elevated; the opposite corner is quite close to the head.
HEAD-DRESS, No. 7 – Coiffure de Cour; OR, COURT HEAD- DRESS WITH B1RD-OF-PARADISE PLUMES, LAPPETS, AND A COMB.
This head-dress is composed of four loops of hair, a bird-of-paradise, a diamond comb, and blond lappets. The first of the loops placed over the right temple, its convexity being in face of the exterior corner of the eye on the same side; the second placed opposite to the interior corner of the left eye, and rather inclining to the same side; the third placed straight, is seen behind the last-mentioned, shewing in the profile the foundation of each; at length, the fourth is placed opposite to the exterior corner of the left eye, to which it inclines; in this manner the first of the loops is the most elevated in front, and is tightly bent towards the left side; the third, which is straight and erect, is, however, the most predominant. The loop in the centre is less voluminous than the others, and easily discovers that which is behind.
The bird-of-paradise, placed opposite the right eye, and in front of the loop on the same side, looks over the right temple; its tail passes between the second and third loop, and forms the plumage above the interstice of the third to the fourth, terminating on the left. On the right of the principal loop, on the summit of the head, is perceived, on the twisted hair, a puff made of the lappets, the rest of the lappets float behind; the comb is placed before the right loop, beneath the bird, which is seen above the gallery; it inclines to the right, so that the extremity of the gallery on this side should be seen at the distance of an inch from the head ; the other extremity is elevated about as high as the second loop of hair.
HEAD-DRESS, No. 8. – Coiffure de Cour, OR COURT HEAD-DRESS, WITH OI’TRICH FEATHERS, ORNAMENTS OF GOLD OR JEWELS, AND LAPPETS.
This head-dress is composed of five loops: the first placed opposite to the right eye, turns its convex part towards the temple on the same side; the second, placed over its two extremities, and inclining towards the right side, presents to the ear on that side one of its edges, turning towards the interior corner of the right eye the part which is puffed out; the third, inclining to the right, is placed the same, on its extremities, and discovers its edge in the same manner as the left temple; the fourth, placed above and behind this, presents its convexity to the interior corner of the left eye, discovering, on each side of the head the two edges; and, at length, the second, leaning on one of its edges, displays the superior part of the ring, which it forms in the direction of the left ear.
REMARKS, &c. The ostrich feathers should be seven in number: the first, fixed behind the second puff or loop of hair, falls, undulating, on the right side, and passing in front of the upper part of the first loop; the second, placed above, inclines equally towards the right; a third, more elevated, ascends from the upper part of the head; the fourth, placed before the fifth puff, slightly inclines to the left, the same as the sixth, which is placed behind; lastly, the seventh, is placed at the beginning of the fifth loop, and, passing over the left temple, accompanies the tresses of hair on that side. The lappets form a puff behind the feathers, which ornament the summit of the coiffure, and float over the shoulders. A kind of plate diadem (called by the French une plaque) either of gold or jewels, or both, is placed in front, at the distance of the stripe equal with the line of the nose. Among the curls in front are scattered a few pearls and flowers.
HEAD-DRESS, No. 9. – Coiffure de Mariee, OR BRIDAL HEAD-DRESS.
This coiffure, which is one the most distinguished, is composed of three loops, ornamented with orange-blossoms, a veil, and a platted braid of three branches, inclining over the right eye, and laid flat across over the forehead, so as to form a bandeau. The first puff of hair is placed opposite the right ear, its convex part turning to the eye on the same side. A second, higher than the first, predominates over the head-dress, and is placed on the summit of the head, corresponding to the line of the nose, towards which feature it turns its convex part. The third is above the left ear, where it leans over the ring it designates. It is from this loop that the transverse plat seems to come, which, passed into the interior of the curls on the right side, is concealed under the first loop on this side. A white rose, with four buds, is fixed above the first loop; above the curls, between the first and second loop, are seen several sprigs of orange-blossoms, full blown, with some branches of the same flower, in bud. These are scattered among the curls on the left. Two full blown blossoms escape, and lye on the forehead, or above the platted bandeau.
To place the veil on, it is taken by the richest corner, and folded, attaching it to four inches from its extremity; it is then fastened by a pin, and by the help of a thread before the first loop of hair; then take again the border on, the right side, and fold it at the distance of six inches. As it is impossible to tie the veil; and it is indispensably requisite to make use of a pin, it must be white, and rather long. The folded part of the veil must be placed behind the first puff of hair, making it form a cavity, where it may enter, as in a niche; the veil will be seen on the right of the puff, and somewhat above it: the remainder, passing over the left shoulder, will cover the chest, the corner falling over the figure; the flowers will be placed as mentioned in the description of this head-dress.
HEAD-DRESS, No. 10. – Coiffure en Turban, OR TURBAN HEAD-DRESS.
Turbans are not in universal use; yet they are not wanting in dignity nor elegance. A skilful hand knows how to give to them the most graceful form, and it cannot be denied but what the turban is, of all head-dresses, the one which most contributes to give majesty to the countenance; therefore, they are not suitable to young persons, who, when they appear attired only with modest simplicity, are certainly the most attractive.
A turban, to do honour to the person who forms it, and to the charms which it crowns, ought to harmonize with the turn of the face, the complexion of which, and the character, should be the guides of the person who composes this head-dress, in the choice of colours proper to be adopted. The shape of the turban should be made ingeniously to combine with that of the visage, and as the chief fault in this kind of coiffure is its monotony, every resource imagination has in store should be resorted to, to vary the turns, the manner of folding, and the display of fancy; for a turban is not subject to any settled rules, taste and invention may modulate it in a thousand different ways: we will content ourselves in pointing out one singly, which always produces a good effect; it is one which is parti-coloured ; for instance, ponceau, and bird-of-paradise, those two colours, with a row of pearls and a crescent, form an excellent combination. The pearls coming from behind the left ear, brought above the turban over the forehead, opposite the interior corner of the right eye, ending in a point directly opposite to where they commenced, there they should be fixed. The crescent should be placed directly in the line of the nose.
NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS, FOR OCTOBER, 1829.
The Autumn of this year has borne so strong a similitude to Winter, that many a warm envelope has been dragged from its recess where it had been laid up with care, to be brought out for awhile, before the fashions for Winter had actually taken place. Though dress balls have not been many, yet we are credibly informed that private dances are got up with great spirit among the families now at their country recesses; all that relates to fashion, and fashionable, amusements seem to breathe of Winter.
The chief novelty in female attire is to be found in the bonnets; we are astonished to hear some ladies declare they are at a loss what bonnets to adopt; let such take the trouble of applying to Mrs. BELL, who has prepared for the demi-saison some of the most appropriate and charming head-coverings imaginable.
The colours of the new bonnets are all brighter and more conspicuous than those adapted to the summer months; one we greatly admired was of figured satin, of a light etherial-blue; it is trimmed with ribbon to correspond, and a splendid white plumage of tassel feathers, waves gracefully over one side, en saule pleureuse; this bonnet is peculiarly fitted for the carriage, and for paying morning visits. There is another bonnet of the same satin, with the crown en biseau: that is, higher on one side than on the other; it is ornamented with bows of blue gauze ribbon, edged on one side with white satin stripes, on the other with one narrow stripe of amber, on which is a delicate running pattern in brocade, of brown foliage; the bows are placed, one on the right side of the crown’s summit, the other at its base, on the opposite side, and one at the edge of the brim. A wreath of blue and white flowers finish the ornaments, and a demi-veil of superb white blond, depends over the face, from the edge of the brim, to which it is attached. A transparent carriage-bonnet is also well worthy of admiration: it is composed entirely of fluted blond; the top of the crown is elegantly finished with blond, en fers de Cheval; between the interstices of which, are parti-coloured, fancy-roses, full blown, of apricot-colour, and emerald-green. White gauze ribbon, with satin stripes, float loose. For the dress promenade, is a very beautiful satin bonnet of Pomona-green, it is trimmed with green and white satin ribbons, sewn together, and a long branch of the everlasting pea, in full flower, droops over the left side.
Among the new head-dresses is a beautiful turban-cap of tulle, folded in bias, with long loop-strings of bright geranium sewn together. A full-blown yellow rose is placed over the right temple, and on the opposite side is a white rose. At the back of the caul, on the left side, is a full-blown damask-rose. Young ladies at this season of the year, wear but little ornament on their tresses, which are, however, arranged with the greatest care and elegance: at some evening parties, where a certain style of parure is required, and at dress-balls, a wreath of foliage, or of flowers, in detached bouquets, are added. Jewellery in the hair, and ornamental combs, are not likely to prevail till the latter end of October. Turban and berets cannot be expected, at this time of the year, to offer any thing new; a few toques, of rich gauze, have appeared at some dress- parties in the country; the plumage was white, short, and most tastefully disposed; it was of a light and beautiful kind, but not marabout. Dress hats are, as in general at the Summer and Autumnal recesses, the head-dress most in favour with matronly belles; of those now most admired are of white crape, with superb white Ostrich feathers.
Among the most attractive novelties in the dresses, is one of cherry-coloured gros de Naples, with a broad bias hem at the border of the skirt; this is headed by a broad fringe: the body is made low, a la Suisse, and the lacing of ribbon at the stomacher finishes by a bow, to the ends of which depend silver tags. The sleeves are short, of the same material as the dress; and over them are sleeves a la Seduisantes, of rich white blond. The same kind of fringe which ornaments the hem at the border of the dress surrounds the base of the corsage, rendering it in the true Swiss style: and an ornament of fringe falls over the back
of the tucker part of the body, but does not surround the front of the bust; coming no farther from the back, on each shoulder, than to the hollow of the arm. Dresses of slate-coloured gros de Naples are in high estimation for half-dress; these are also trimmed .with fringe over a broad hem; a pelerine, the same as the dress, is worn with them, according to the time of day, or style of dress, and this is surrounded by fringe. Printed muslins and chintzes continue to be worn in home costume, but white dresses yet prevail at the dejeune. Figured gauze, both white and coloured, is a favourite material for full dresses; they have little novelty in their make; a ruche of tulle, or two narrow flounces of white blond, fall over the head of the broad hem, which generally finishes the border.
The newest article in out-door costume is a very handsome and comfortable Venetian cloak of fine Merino; a most judicious, as well as an elegant envelope for ladies who take country excursions in an open carriage, during these cutting winds we have lately experienced; this cloak will also be found extremely serviceable on coming from an evening, or late dinner-party. The colour is a fine shade of slate, and it is beautifully relieved by being trimmed all round with broad black velvet. Over the shoulders, forming a large kind of cape, is a pointed mantelet-pelerine, which graceful appendage adds to the warmth of this covering, while it presents a real ornament; this is also trimmed round by black velvet, and its long points fall partly in front, and partly over the shoulders, like the Persian drapery sleeve. The cloak is lined throughout with white Levantine, and a rich silk cordon of black, with tassels, fastens it round the waist. The pelisses this summer were much worn unclosed down the front of the skirt, discovering a petticoat of richly embroidered muslin or cambric underneath. There is nothing yet novel in the style of those pelisses which fasten down; mantles, it is expected, will be very general, during the latter end of October; some have already been adopted; they are all made with capes, though there is great utility in the hood, especially for young ladies who wear no head-dress but their own hair; they can then, when seated in their carriage, at returning from a late party on a cold night, shield their Heads from the generally pernicious effects of nocturnal air, by drawing the silken or satin hood over their tresses. Cachemere shawls are, at present, in universal request. On mild days, a canezou spencer of embroidered muslin, or a pelerine trimmed with broad lace, and splendidly embroidered, with only a fiancee tippet of coloured silk, is thought a sufficient additional covering. We have seen on a lady of distinction a pelisse of gros des Indes, which appeared entirely new; it fastened down one side with a full ruche of the same colour and material; she was accompanied by a lady in a pelisse of dove-coloured satin, made with broad bias folds, en tunique.
The colours most admired are slate, etherial-blue, Pomona-green, cherry, amber, pink, and the yellow of the young Canary-bird.
NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.
HATS AND BONNETS. – Several straw hats, and those of other materials, are seen ornamented with five or six dahlias, placed at the base of the crown. Hats which have the brim plaited like a fan, have the crown very low on the left side, and the right side of the brim is slightly turned up. Five white feathers form a diadem: the bow of ribbon which fastens them is fringed at the ends with feathered fringe. Bonnets of blue, lilac, or white corded silk, are ornamented by plats of straw and two bouquets of field-flowers, one placed on the right, on the summit of the crown, the other at the edge of the brim, on the left side. The ribbons which fasten these bouquets are edged with plats of straw. Bonnets of rose-coloured or blue crape have puckered crowns, and the brims laid in large flutings; they are not lined: at the base of the crown is a bouquet of jessamine and wild honeysuckles; the brim is bordered by a very deep blond.
Round the crown of a hat of straw and rose-coloured silk, has been seen a few sprigs of the Spanish apple-blossom, mingled with puffs of rose-coloured gauze. On the right side, under the brim, a double rosette of yellow and rose gauze, upheld a branch of apple-blossoms. A hat of yellow satin, trimmed with several rosettes, under the brim, has before the front of the crown two branches of geranium. A white poppy sometimes forms the sole ornament on a hat of white gros de Naples, lined with rose-colour, and bound with that colour.
The caul and the brim of a bonnet of blue gros de Naples is puckered and bouillones over stiffenings of straw concealed under the silk. A demi-yeil of blond is placed at the edge: the ornaments consist of bows of gauze ribbon.
The autumn of this year is so winter-like, that bonnets of satin have already appeared. On the hats are alternate puffs of striped ribbons, the stripes the same colour as the ribbon; iron-grey, for example, on slate-colour. The brims of the bonnets are very long in front. After having incircled the crown, a broad ribbon is crossed in an X, and the ends serve for strings.
Hats of gros de Naples, and thoso of coloured crape, have all on the summit of the crown, at the right or the left, a long branch of flowers inclining towards the brim: on the opposite side are rosettes of ribbon of gauze, bordered with figured satin.
A great number of hats have, instead of gauze ribbons for the bows, rosettes made of satin ribbon, even on satin bonnets: some of these bonnets are bordered by black blond. When three feathers are placed on a hat in a vertical direction, it is said they are a l’Anglaise, in allusion to the crest of the Prince of Wales. Some hats of gros de Naples, or of white crape, are trimmed round the top and base of the crown with blond, and between each of these trimmings is a branch of white bind-weed, put on in a serpentine direction.
Some bonnets have been seen of gros de Naples, made in the English style, which have taken place of those in straw, worn some months ago. Their colour is pearl-grey, lined with rose or cherry-colour. The strings are fastened or each side, and tie over the crown, which is surrounded by a ribbon of the same colour, with a bow on one side. Some ladies of fashion place on their Leghorn hats a plume composed of peacock’s feathers, which forms a half-circle round the hat, and falls over the left side of the brim. Several hats of bright green gros de Naples have white bindings on the right side is a bow of six loops, with one single end. This end of ribbon ascends over the crown and then descends to the left to the edge of the brim, where it terminates under a rosette. Some bonnets a l’Anglaise have appeared of white gros de Naples, bound with ponceau.
OUT-DOOR COSTUME. – Pelisses of gros des Indes or of gros de Naples, which are named prisms, on account of the effects caused by their being of changeable colours, are very fashionable. They are fastened down the front by rosettes formed of four points of the same material as the pelisse, bound with a narrow rouleau. In the centre of these rosettes is a small Griffin’s claw of gold. Over some of these pelisses is worn a pelerine, with a very broad fringe. A blond ruff round the throat is reckoned much more elegant than a collar. Instead of a fiancee tied en cravate round the throat, below the ruff, a very broad ribbon is preferred, the ends cut in bias and fringed. It is tied under the chin without forming any bow.
The morning pelisses are of dark-coloured muslin, with a running pattern of small white flowers. Some muslin and Organdy pelisses have very wide, open sleeves, all the way down withinside the arm they are closed at separate distances by a double button of gold. The belt, the cuffs, and the ruff round the neck, are also fastened by gold buttons.
Pelisses a la maitresse, are of jaconot muslin, the ground of a light blue, pink, chamois-colour; they have under them a petticoat of cambric, and a fichu with a double falling collar: one is plaited in a great many small plaits, the other is fluted.
The pelerines are charming: some of muslin are embroidered all over in feather-stitch, as is also a very broad frill border, at the edge of which is a fine narrow lace. Two pelisses have appeared of white jaconot, with very broad sashes; the pelisses were trimmed all round with a double frill trimming of muslin, festooned and embroidered. This trimming was sewn at the border of the hem, next the shoe.
Pelerines of muslin, plaited en musique, have sometimes five small plaits placed at equal distances, and tacked down by a needle and thread, which makes it easy to sew to them the narrow lace or edging which trims them, and can by this means remain stationary.
On pelisses of gros de Naples, in the place of ruffs, we generally now see narrow collars of embroidered tulle, trimmed with narrow lace, which are tied in front. Those collars of gros de Naples named fiancees, have now changed their title to alliance; they are plain or embroidered, according to fancy, and are always of two different colours.
DRESSES. – The newest dresses for the morning walk are of jaconot muslin, the ground a Turkish red, or green, figured over with white flowers with black stalks, and edged round with black, which marks out the shape of the petals. With these dresses a white canezou of muslin is worn.
Materials of fine woollen tissue, figured over with blue-bells or daisies, are often seen at dress parties. The flowers are embroidered in silk or worsted. White barege, also with flowers interwoven in the stuff, are much in request. The flower is generally a pink, a ranunculus, or a violet.
A wreath of oak-leaves in velvet, placed as high as the knee, is the favorite trimming on ball dresses.
We are assured that several dresses have been made of the horse-hair material named Crinoline. Fashion is frequently giving new epithets, but in this we cannot help seeing the revival of mohair; however, it is preferable to the fragoletta, which they have not scrupled to call a certain kind of muslin of one particular pattern.
One of the prettiest materials that is now worn is the chaly Grec, and painted gros de Naples is much in favor with ladies of distinction. A petticoat of this kind, with a canezou of Indian muslin, embroidered in stripes, is a costume which is universally admired.
At dancing assemblies dresses are seen of India muslin, the borders of which are ornamented with gold; and as high as the knees is an embroidered wreath of flowers in gold and silver. The same kind of work adorns the mancherons and the tucker part of the bust. The sleeves are open from the shoulder to the wrist, where they are bordered by gold lace, and fastened by one single button of gold.
A dress of rose-coloured Organdy, ornamented as high as the knee with a fringe in knotted silk, is reckoned very elegant; a similar fringe is placed over the hem at the edge of the dress, and falls over the petticoat beneath, which is of glazed cambric-muslin, with a narrow lace at the border. Dresses of Organdy, the colour of the marshmallow-blossom are also seen. Above the hem they are embroidered in crewel in green vine-leaves; the clusters of grapes which are intermingled, are worked in white worsted.
The embroidery with which the wide sleeves are adorned, is often a work of perfection; the flowers are grouped in a manner which would do honour to the finest picture.
A dress of muslin was seen at a concert lately; the ground was white, and the pattern, that which is now known by the appellation of fragoletta (small red strawberries with green leaves) a twisted ornament of three colours, red, white, and green, marks out the edge of the broad hem at the knee.
Among the royal mantles destined to the Queen of Spain, is one of velvet, round which is embroidered wheat- sheaves of gold and pearls. The fringe is also of gold and pearls, ornamented by a beautifully wrought head of the some costly materials.
One of the newest and prettiest dresses for the ball-room, is of crape, or white Organdy, with green foliage formed of crape gauffree, and placed in a wreath over a broad hem.
The sleeves are now beginning to decrease in width; and it is expected they will be much narrower on dresses made of Winter materials. The cuffs have three points, edged with narrow Mecklin-lace, which are directed towards the arm.
A lady was seen at the last ball at Ranelagh in a dress of white muslin with short sleeves. Her sash was fastened with a beautiful brooch of topazes: two of the best dancers wore dresses of rose-coloured crape. One white dress was remarked with a corsage of lemon-colour, having a point, a Yelva: it had long sleeves of tulle.
Ruffs are often made of stiffened muslin; they are double, and laid in full plaits.
The fiancees which tie round the throat are of gauze ribbons cut in bias.
Amongst the ornaments placed over the broad hems of dresses of gros de Naples, one has been remarked of a letting-in kind, formed by a treillage in passementerio: it is open, and separates the hem from the skirt. The belt, the cuffs of the sleeves, and the tucker part round the bust are finished in the same manner. On dresses of white jaconot, the hem is sometimes covered with embroidery in feather-stitch; above the hem, is a trimming of muslin about a hand’s breadth, embroidered and festooned: the same kind of trimming is placed at the edge of the hem, next the feet.
HEAD-DRESSES. – Several ladies, and even those who are very young, wear false ringlets, which they name Anglaises; these fall below the ears: the damp of the evenings proves the utility of this adoption, as they do not become out of curl like the natural hair.
The dress caps are so large, and the ribbons which trim them so broad, that to keep them in shape, they are supported by three rows of wired ribbon; this stiffening is concealed by a wreath of flowers. At the back of these blond caps is a bow of gauze ribbon, from whence depend two ends which hang down like lappets.
The hair is much elevated on the summit of the head; it is composed of two bands of hair on the forehead, and a bow of three puffs towards the summit. A wreath formed of ears of corn, blue-bells and wild scarlet poppies, with a small sheaf of barley, complete the head-dress.
At the last ball at Ranelagh, a young lady with ebon tresses, had them separated in two bands, which were almost transparent. At that part where the skin of the head is no longer discovered, that is to say, at the summit, were three puffs, or loops of hair, one above the other, and in front of these puffs were four dahlias placed in an oblique direction. Some ladies wear garden-daisies in their hair; others the laurel-rose, which is so disposed as to resemble the arched tail of the bird-of-paradise. Many have their hair adorned with flowers on long stalks, which form an aigrette.
JEWELLERY. The favourite ear-pendants and neck- laces are now of rubies or garnets.
The key of gold, which a lady now suspends to her neck-chain, contains a pencil.
The ear-pendants are remarkably long; every drop is composed of four bells, which seem enclosed in each other, as they fall one over the other; the head of the second, as it descends, being suspended to the clapper of that above it, and so of the rest.
Those ramifications of coral, named native coral, are much in favour again. At a late elegant dancing-assembly was seen a belt of this kind; some of these specimens are of bright red, and are mingled with either silver or gold.
MISCELLANEOUS. – The new material in horse-hair, named crinoline, is much used for the lining of reticules, baskets, and sometimes for deshabille hats in the country.
The half-boots are made with heels.
Several invitation cards have appeared worded as follows: “There will be a violin and a fire.”
Among the clear muslins there is one which bears the name of a new romance, Fragolletta. Green foliage, mingled with red fruit, wood-strawberries, run over a ground of white, or of some very light colour.
A fashionable purse is of silk net, black and ponceau, brown and green, or white and blue; the strings are of the same two colours, with tassels.
Some hosiers sell stockings for females which have a fringe above the ancle, to mark out the figure of a half- boot.
Paper for hanging apartments with is figured in imitation of those materials which are gauffree, and those of damask.
The new work-baskets are of white wood, in open-work; and to preserve in them the smallest objects in safety, they are lined throughout with sarcenet.
Silk stockings are now dyed flesh-colour. White silk half-boots, with a fringe at the top, round the small of the leg, are worn at balls.
The new gloves have two button-holes at the wrists, with two buttons, as large as a sixpence each.
From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons
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