Newest London and Parisian Fashions for August 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

Plate the First

When we presented our readers with the costume of a lady of Moscow, in a preceding number, it was one adopted to general wear, and a little more in unison, by some alteration in the corset, &c,. with courts which have long been accustomed to the ease and grace of polished life, to be gained only by intercourse with other nations, continually in search of improvement.
The costume now represented in our engraving, is truly Russian, in all its ancient grandeur, as may be seen by the unsowed waist, and the native richness and magnificence of the whole attire. It is such as is worn on high court festivals, or on some splendid celebration of a great anniversary
The robe is of the richest Genoa velvet, of a bright crimson, the border ornamented with a broad gold lace; from the tucker, down the front of the bust and the skirt, is another gold lace, still broader, and this is richly ornamented with rubies, set round with pearls. The train is lined throughout with ermine, and is adorned also with precious stones, and the black eagle of Russia, worked in embossed embroidery. The easy and unconfined waist is inclosed in a corsage, with a twisted oriental shawl, forming a cordon round the waist, carelessly tied in a knot in front, and the ends superbly fringed with gold: this shawl is of a thin and very light texture, being of Japanese-gauze and gold. The sleeves are long, and of white Japanese-gauze; they are confined at the wrists by very broad gold bracelets, set with pearls and rubies. On each shoulder are epaulettes of gold bullion, in fringe. The hair is arranged a la Madonna, with a plat depending on each side, braided in the same manner as the hair of the Moorish ladies, with ribbon; this ribbon is of gold-colour. We should pronounce the head-dress singular, was it not very much in the beret style. It is of gold and crimson tissue, in antique kind of figures, and is enriched with oriental pearls: a long, white veil depends from the back of this coiffeure. The ear-pendants are magnificent; large, and of exquisitely fine pearls, in shape and fashion not unlike those of wrought gold, so much admired by the English females of the present day. The necklace, which is of inestimable value, from the scarcity of pear-pearls, is formed of one row of them, with drops exactly matching each other, and which are procured with extreme difficulty. Two gold chains, en cordon, fall over the bust; from the lower one is suspended the order of St. Anne; and beneath this hangs a collar, belonging to the order, of white and gold enamel. The shoes are of gold tissue. It is needless to observe that this superb costume, is that of a lady of the highest rank.


A dress of Batiste de Laine, the colour of Nankin: the border of the skirt trimmed with two flounces, each edged by a fringe. The sleeves a l’Imbecille, the fulness confined at the wrist by a band; large fichu-pelerine of tulle, trimmed with a double full ornament of lace, and finished just below the throat by a double ruff, fastened in front by a bow of pink ribbon. A hat of white chip, ornamented by a pink exotic flower, with branches of its green foliage. The brim of the hat is trimmed underneath with a bandeau and bows of pink ribbon; the strings are placed under the brim, and float loose. The half-boots are of the same colour as the dress.
N. B. A back view of the same figure, in a dress of celestial-blue, of which colour are also the flowers, and ribbons on the hat.


A dress of fine India muslin, with a very broad hem, finished at the top in points, trimmed at the edges with a full ruche of lace. Upon the hem, which forms the border beneath these points, is a beautiful pattern in embroidery, forming diamond-chequers, in every one of which is a bouquet, exquisitely wrought in feather-stitch. The body is a la Roxelane, and the sleeves a la Mameluke, which terminate by a broad cuff with a point, and are trimmed round by a ruche of lace; the mancherons correspond, in being pointed and finished by the same trimming. A narrow tucker formed of a full ruche of lace surrounds the bust. The hat is of straw-coloured gros de Naples; ornamented under the brim with points of straw-coloured satin, edged round with narrow blond; the crown is adorned with very full bouquets of the blue flower, “Forget me not;” and a white blond veil is generally added: the hat ties down with a lemon-coloured ribbon, striped with dark brown. A sash of pearl-grey ribbon incircles the waist; fastened in front with a gold buckle. On the wrist of the right arm, is a bracelet of black velvet, fastened with a cameo, set a l’Antique, in gold. On the left wrist is a bracelet of wrought gold.

Plate the Second

A printed muslin dress, the ground a pale buff, with large diamond checquers of white; these diamonds, by the disposition of the broad hem at the border of the skirt, become square; on the part which crosses, or points the checquer, is a beautifully coloured sprig. The broad hem is headed by a magnificent fringe, with a surmounting of open work. The body is partially high, and en gerbe, over which is a falling collar of the same material as the dress, and finished round by the same kind of fringe which is at the border. The sleeves are a la Marie, and are confined in the middle of the arm by a ribbon to match the colour of the dress, which is finished by a rosette on the outside of the arm, just below the elbow. A French ruff of fine lace in three rows, surmounts a fichu at the throat. The bonnet is of white gros de Naples, trimmed with striped gauze ribbon, the colour of the marshmallow-blossom, and ornamented with damask, and yellow roses. The brim underneath has three points of yellow and marshmallow-blossom satin on the left side. The half-boots are of buff kid, and the parasol of hermit-brown.


A pelisse of white striped gros de Naples, blue and straw- colour, on a white ground. The pelisse fastens down the front of the skirt by blue buttons, with long worked button-holes, in blue silk. The body is made with fichu robings, the under one of which, is blue, in flutings, the other the same as the dress: the sleeves are full but not quite a l’Imbecille, neither are they so wide as the Mameluke sleeves. The bonnet is the colour of the pomegranate rind, and is bound at the edge with celestial-blue. The crown is trimmed with full puffings of gauze the same colour as the bonnet, which is carelessly tied by a fold of this soft and gossamer-like gauze, en schal.


A dress of celestial blue gros de Naples, finished at the border by a broad hem, headed by a rouleau of blue, four shades darker; under this rouleau are ornaments en fer de Cheval, edged with a narrow frill trimming, the same colour and material as the dress, but the trimming headed by a narrow rouleau, the same colour as that which surmounts the broad hem. The corsage is made to fit the shape, but is rendered very wide in front by quadruple fichu-robings; there are, in fact, five of these, but the fifth turns over only like a small lapel: they are all edged by a very narrow blond, headed by a dark blue rouleau. The back of the corsage is finished in the same manner, and just below the throat is a double ruff of blond. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille, with an embroidered cuff of white muslin ruffled on each side by rather narrow lace. Above the cuff are embossed ornaments in white silk embroidery. Over a very becoming cornette of blond is worn a leghorn hat, trimmed with white ribbon edged on each side with blue, and a blond ornament, with a rosette of ribbon in the centre, is placed under the brim on the right side. The hat is decorated with blue ostrich feathers. The half- boots are of Nankin, and the gloves are of a very light colour beautifully embroidered at the back of the hand.
N.B. A back view of the same dress in pink; with the hat ornamented with white ribbons and plumage.

Plate the Third

A dress of cream-coloured taffety, bordered by a broad hem, headed by a green satin rouleau, placed slightly en serpentine. Over this is a beautiful embroidery of green fern in floize silk, of Pomona-green. The body is en gerbe, with a belt round the waist, embroidered to correspond with the work at the border of the skirt. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, but only of a very moderate fulness. The mancherons are pointed, and finished round by green silk embroidery, and a broad cuff at the wrist is ornamented in the same manner, divided in the centre, on the right wrist, by a gold bracelet, fastened by a white cornelian, set in gold. The body of the dress is made square across the front, rather low on the shoulders, and the tucker part surrounded with green silk embroidery. A hat of white gros de Naples, with very broad strings of white gauze ribbon, striped with sage-green; these ornaments of the same ribbon, doubled, is placed under the brim on the right side. The summit of the crown is slightly trimmed with white gros de Naples, en bateau, and adorned by a full bouquet of white and red roses: on the left side, at the base of the crown, is another bouquet of the same kind of flowers, fastened by a bow of gauze ribbon, the same as the strings. The half-boots are of kid, the same colour as the dress, with marshmallow-blossom kid at the point of the foot.


A dress of white muslin, with a border of the rose-geranium in silk embroidery. The body quite plain, trimmed round the bust with two narrow pink satin rouleaux. The sleeves a l’Imbecille, with a narrow ruffled cuff at the wrist. A dress hat of white crape adorned with pink aigrettes, and pink and white gauze ribbon. Ear-pendants of gold. A scarf of pink barege, with a delicate fringe at the ends, is thrown over this dress, which is completed by lavender-coloured shoes of gros de Naples, tied en sandales.


A dress of fawn-coloured jaconot muslin, with two broad flounces, set on rather scanty; at the edges of which are embroidered branches of fancy foliage, in scarlet, and myrtyle-green. Over the head of the upper flounce, is an ornament worked in both colours. The body is a la Circassienne, and is confined by a belt, embroidered in the same manner as the ornament above the upper flounce. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, and very full: they are confined at the wrists by a band of embroidery, corresponding with the belt, &c. The bonnet is of Leghorn, with bows and strings of straw-coloured ribbon. A double gold chain, with large links, ornaments the neck. The parasol is of milk-chocolate colour, lined with sea-green. The half-boots of Nankin, the same colour as the dress.

Plate the Fourth

A dress of white gros de Naples, with two flounces at the border, finished at each edge with a flat rouleau of white satin, over which is a delicate painting in wreaths of various coloured flowers, the head of the upper flounce ornamented in the same manner. Body en gerbe, with a plain belt of white satin. The front of the bust made square across, and elegantly finished by painting and quilled blond. Sleeves a l’Imbecille, confined at the wrists by white and gold enamelled bracelets, fastened by a ruby. The hair arranged in full curls, on each side of the face, and bows on the summit, ornamented with green foliage. Girandole ear-pendants and Greek necklace of gold.


A pelisse of gros de Naples, the colour dust-of-ruins, made en tunique, with a delicate pencil-work on white silk. The skirt fastens down the front with buttons. Body en gerbe, with sleeves more in the jigot form than a l’Imbecille, though properly neither. A black velvet bracelet confines the sleeve at the wrist, fastened with a white agate set in gold. A pelerine cape with a falling collar finishes the corsage; each edged round by the same trimming which borders the tunique. Transparent capote bonnet of white crape trimmed at the edge with a ruche of blond. Long puffs of crape, edged with blond, complete the trimming on the crown. Half-boots of gros de Naples, the same colour as the pelisse.


A dress of lavender-coloured muslin with a broad hem at the border, headed by a double zig-zag ornament of grass- green in satin rouleaux. Sleeves a l’Imbecille. Fichu-canezou of white Batiste, painted with flowers of different colours. Bonnet formed of white and green ribbons, and trimmed with full bows of the same. Strings floating loose.
N.B. Back view of the same figure in white, with a bon- net formed of blue and fawn-coloured ribbons.


Our splendid drawing rooms, so lately thronged with beauty, rank, and fashion, are now about to be entirely deserted; the latter end of July witnessed many departures from London, and in the short space of ten days, we may expect a total cessation to that cortege of coroneted carriages, which we have been accustomed to view in the fashionable morning drive; many of these carriages, we have since seen, with their four post-horses, carrying off their noble owners to their country-seats; or on visits previous to such retirement, to Cheltenham, and other salubrious situations.
The last meeting at Almack’s, and two or three splendid dinner and evening parties, given by the few nobility remaining in town, just after the sojourning of parliament, were distinguished by the elegant and superb dresses of the ladies. At Almack’s were observed more young ladies than have been seen there some time; but when well chaperoned, this is as it should be. With such the dresses were, of course, more simply elegant than rich.
There were not many dress hats among the matrons; what there were, offered a new kind of shape, and were very transparent; they had very much the appearance, in front, of a summer beret, being placed very backward. Nothing can be more charming than the present arrangement of the hair for young persons; simplicity, grace, and elegance, are so admirably united, that there is scarce any countenance but what is embellished by the easy flow of the ringlets, and the light transparency of the clustered curls. Flowers of very beautiful workmanship are often added, but for very young ladies, the summer season makes them generally satisfied with the attractive ornament, which bounteous nature may have bestowed on them. We have seen one young married lady, with a toque of pink crape; and next the hair was a chain-bandeau of the most valuable pearls. One of the newest and most elegant coiffeures for half dress, is a turban cap of white tulle, cut in bias, and doubled; it is trimmed and lapetted with coloured crape sewn together; lilac and yellow, and ornamented with two branches of that lovely shrub, in flower, the Hypericum fuetrix. Caps of broad, and richly figured blond, tastefully trimmed with striped gauze ribbons, of light summer colours, are much worn in deshabille by our matrons, who, in morning costume, tie them under the chin, with a bow on the left side. For the breakfast table, when ladies make three different toilets in the day, the caps are of thread lace, of a very fine quality; and the rosettes are chiefly composed of lace, with a very small quantity of white satin ribbon.

Much variety and taste is now observable in the summer hats and bonnets; and England may boast of being gifted with the powers of invention, in an equal degree with her neighbours on the continent: one of these new English head-coverings is of watered gros de Naples, the colour bird-of-paradise yellow. It is trimmed with gauze ribbon, with satin stripes, and this ribbon is disposed in long puffings; a conspicuous ornament, en aile de Moulin, appears on the right side, in front of the crown, and is trimmed round with black blond. A beautiful ribbon of white gauze is fluted under the brim. An elegant hat, of a novel kind in shape, and extremely becoming, is of a French-white figured silk, with bows of striped gauze ribbon, and ornamented by three plumes boiteuses, set round the crown at equal distances from each other; the colours in each feather are green and lilac. A very beautiful bonnet is of Spring-green, lined with white, and trimmed with green and white ribbons, sewn together, and ornamented by a wreath of pink and white Dahlias; a puffed bandeau, of green and white ribbons, crosses the forehead under the brim; and a mentonniere of blond fastens the bonnet under the chin. A yellow crape summer hat for the carriage, is trimmed with yellow ribbon of striped gauze, and crape, disposed about the crown, en fers de Cheval: small bows of the ribbon are placed in each interstice. Another transparent carriage hat is of white crepe Aerophane, trimmed with pink crape, and narrow pink satin rouleaux; a bow is placed on each side, at the edge of the brim, from whence float lappets of pink crape, doubled in bias. Two esprit feathers of pink and white, adorn the crown. Matronly ladies wear bonnets for the promenade of fine leghorn or chip, with bows of grass-green ribbon, and a full ruche of the same colour at the edge of the brim; these are of a charming and most becoming shape; but are reckoned most genteel when of straw coloured gros de Naples, or of some other light summer tint, in preference to those bonnets, however close, and retiring, of straw or Leghorn; the most distinguished females always preferring a hat or bonnet of silk or satin; the colours of the ribbons and ruche, are made to suit and correspond with that of the bonnet. One of the most elegant hats for carriage-airings, or morning visits, is of white gros de Naples, richly damasked over with satin flowers; it is very lightly trimmed about the crown, with white gauxe ribbon; but the broad blond at the edge of the brim, is of the most exquisite beauty; a sufficient ornament in itself; it excites universal admiration.
From the observations we are enabled to make, and from the authority, aided by the kind intelligence imparted to us by Mrs. Bell, whose taste and science, insure the patronage and support of the most distinguished class of females, we have long maintained the truth of an opinion we have seldom been deceived in, that women of real rank and fashion never to go to the extremes of a mode, which is especially, in itself, ridiculous or awkward. We have had a proof of this in a pelisse very recently made for a lady of high rank and known elegance of taste, who gave charge to have the sleeves made only of a very moderate fulness; as this beautiful pelisse is to be worn during a sojournment in the North, where the mornings and evenings are offen chill, it is of merino, but of the finest and softest texture; the colour, a celestial-blue. It is made en tunique, which part of the skirt is trimmed with ruches; the body is plain, and made without a collar; a tippet of embroidered muslin, or clear lawn, or a scarf, supplying the place of a cape. From the waist to the feet it is fastened down the front with small tulipleaf-rosettes, with a silver buckle, in the centre of each. Another pelisse calculated for the cool, early morning walk, or for making short journies in the surrounding country, is of a bright light shade of cinnamon-brown in gros de Naples. It is finished by a very broad border, at the bottom of the skirt, of etherial-blue plush-silk, with a collar and broad cuffs of the same; in other respects the pelisse is made extremely plain. Both the above out-door dresses prove the judgment of the English ladies, in being thus prepared for rural rambles in this our uncertain climate. Pelerines of fine muslin, splendidly embroidered, with those of blond for the carriage, and for coverings on the shoulders at the theatre, are now the order of the day, when the weather is sufficiently mild to dispense with any warmer envelope. The embroidery, or those of muslin over every part, and down the long ends, which descend lower than the knees, is superb; and the manner in which those of blond are trimmed, is exquisitely beautiful ; the bordering, which is set on full, is generally of a Vandyck pattern. They are, certainly, rather too large, but not to such excess as they were.
White dresses are not so prevalent as they were in the month of June, at the latter part; the continual rains, during so great a part of July, considerably decreased their favour ; and dresses of gros de Naples, even of dark or retired colours were preferred, particularly those of slate-colour, milk-chocolate, and cinnamon-brown; they were trimmed in various ways, broad bias tucks, one flounce headed in the most ingenious manner, and en ruches. The boddice either en gerbe, or fitting tight to the shape, according as is most suited to it; though the Circassian drapery is becoming to almost every bust, and is much in favour.
Among the most beautiful of the new printed muslins, we have seen one with a delicate buff, or light Nankin-coloured ground, with detached bouquets of elegantly-varied flowers, of the most brilliant, though not gaudy, tints, scattered over it; one also of a light, yet bright blue, has a delicate chintz pattern of a running kind, and is greatly admired for morning home costume. Coloured crape dresses, with very short sleeves, constitute the most favourite rural, ball, and evening attire for young ladies. Indian taffeties, also, worked in flat embroidery, form an elegant costume for the evening or the dress dinner-party; these truly splendid robes have a very broad hem at the border, over which is a wreath of flowers, in the most exquisite embroidery.
We have lately seen a very charming dress of richly embroidered tulle, and another of French white gros de Naples, with a very deep flounce of blond; these dresses were completed for a full dress evening party.
The colours now most in favour, are, etherial-blue, buff, milk-chocolate, slate-colour, cinnamon-brown, yellow, and lilac.


HATS AND BONNETS. – Some bonnets have been seen formed of ribbons and blond, alternately sewn together. A few puffs of gauze ribbons placed very sparingly, constitute their sole ornament. Almost every hat, not excepting those of Leghorn, is fastened under the chin by a mentonniere of blond.
The French begin to be reconciled to the physiognomies of their countrywomen under what they name English bonnets, which are now becoming universally the mode. In a few days’ time they will, without doubt, pronounce those hats enchanting, which for so many years they pronounced horrible. But such are the effects of fashion. They are now so habituated in seeing a narrow brimmed bonnet tied close over the cheeks, that they are ready to pronounce every one charming so accoutred. The fact is, that these bonnets, by the simplicity and convenience of their form, have great advantages, which appear to have been better appreciated by the ladies in the country than in Paris. The Leghorn hats are becoming larger in the brim all round. Trefoil is a favourite ornament on these hats. Bonnets of open straw are very general; they are lined with bright rose-colour, and the crowns are large. Some fashionists have produced a hat called Marsellais; the crown is low and flat; the brim is also flat and quite round; it is about six inches in breadth; it is edged with blond, with which also the crown is trimmed.

OUT-DOOR COSTUME. The canezou-spencers are of embroidered muslin, and over white dresses they form a favourite costume for the promenade: pelerines also, the same as the dress are much worn; they are larger than usual, and descend very low over the shoulders.
A white canezou-spencer has lately been remarked at a public promenade, with a broad jacket-flap behind.
During the unpropitious weather through a great part of July, Cachemere shawls formed a favourite out-door envelope.
On white dresses are often seen small pelerines of coloured silk, elegantly embroidered. For morning walks the pelerines are of white jaconot muslin, trimmed round with the same; the collar is square and falls over. Some pelerines of muslin are laid in small separate plaits; four and four together, with a space between.

DRESSES. – At a ball lately given by the English ambassador, Organdy dresses embroidered in different colours, and India muslins beautifully worked in feather stitch, were among the most elegant costumes; the sashes were superb: some might be admitted as master-pieces of embroidery.
When a lady goes on a fishing excursion, she wears a jaconot pelisse with a pelerine, a straw hat a la Pamela, ornamented with a green ribbon round the crown; cambric pantaloons, finished at the ancles by two hems, leather shoes, and grey gaiters.
Pockets are very much in use, worn as usual under the dress, but they are of the same material, colour, and pattern, as the gown.
At balls and at fetes-champetres, short sleeves are much in favour.
The sashes and belts are almost all embroidered.
A dress of cherry-coloured muslin is much admired; the shoulders are still exposed. Several dresses of white muslin striped with red, are trimmed with fringes of red and white.
With dresses of gros de Naples half-boots are generally worn of the same colour and material as the dress.

HEAD-DRESSES. – Many young and pretty ladies adopt the English fashion of having their hair arranged in cork-screw ringlets, yet, perhaps, the next day the capricious Parisian will have her hair a la Chinoise.
Berets for evening parties are of crape, ornamented with flowers of a very beautiful kind; they are as light and delicate as marabout feathers.
Small caps of muslin are worn in dejeune costume; they have long lappets of lace, which tying under the chin, the ends are brought up to the summit of the caul, where they form a bow.
When a lady’s head-dress consists only of hair, the curls, &c. instead of being fastened with pins, are confined by small tridents, like three-pronged forks, composed of tortoiseshell.
Small morning caps are of embroidered tulle, with a band trimmed with lace, which ties in front of the cap, where it forms a bow, and another bow of lace is placed on the curls of hair over the temples.
Dress-hats are transparent, of rose-coloured crape or of blond: four bands, two of crape and two of blond, form the brim; the crown is high and en calotte; the base of it is of crape bouillone; the middle part of blond: upon this is placed a cluster of white flowers, or three feathers, two white and one pink: a demi-veil of blond surrounds the brim.
The fashionable morning caps are small, and many of them are trimmed with plain tulle, festooned in cocks-combs, and tied by scalloped tulle bands.

JEWELLERY. Collars, fastening close round the throat, called colliers de chien, Gallic rings, the most massive and Gothic, are much in fashion; but the newest style is to wear on the little finger a ring to which is suspended by a delicate little chain, a small perfume case, a smelling-bottle, or any other fancy bijou.

MISCELLANEOUS. It is the fashion in the country to spread over the breakfast-table a very fine tissue, formed of platted straw; to which is given the appellation of a Russian table-cloth.
They have also window-blinds, formed of rushes, cut in strips, which do not unite, in order that the air may circulate more freely; but these interstices are almost imperceptible, so much so, that the flowers which are painted on these blinds, appear perfectly correct.
Card-racks, named mirrors a la Psyche, consist of a long tablet, rather narrow, and representing a branch of flowers, in different sprays; on each of these sprays is fixed a butterfly, with its four wings expanded, and the back dis- played. The initials of the name of every butterfly corresponds with the day of the week, which is made to contain letters, notes, invitations, &c.
D. Dimanche. – A rose-coloured butterfly, called La Belle Dame.
Lundi, LAERTA. – A large pearl-coloured butterfly, the wings of which are lightly spotted with black.
Mardi, MARS CHANGEANT. – A butterfly so named, by reason of its colours reflecting a mixture of violet and crimson.
Mercredi, MENELAUS. – A magnificent blue butterfly.
Jeudi, JASON. – A large butterfly, with two tails very distinctly marked out, and beautifully ornamented.
Vendredi, VULCAN. – The wings presenting a black ground, striped with fire-colour, and spotted with the same, mixed with white.
Samedi, SYLVAN. – So named from this species being found in woods ; it is never seen on flowers ; it is of black, appearing like velvet, shaded with brown and white.
The card-racks are of white wood, from Spa, and are delicately painted ; though sometimes they are embroidered on white satin.
At one side of the first D. for Dimanche, is often represented a butterfly of Chinese green and black, named Dido.
The speculators on public carriages begin now to encumber Paris with oblong voitures. To the Omnibus, carriages drawn by three horses, were soon added les Dames Blanches, the Tricycles, the Favourites, Les Ecossaises, the Carolines, and the Bearnaises. In some certain streets the carriages formed compact files. Vainly was it asserted that the pedestrian might find safety on the footway. The populace, in spite of all the vigilance of the police, re dered this as narrow as possible, and sometimes their shops took it entirely up; for example, to display the draperies to advantage over the Magasins de Nouveautes, two shop-men would often take possession of the footpath, one carrying a roll of stuff, the other bearing a pole, with a hook at the end. To stretch out the material, as they unroll it, the pole must be eight or ten feet long, and before it is hooked up, must be kept in a horizontal direction.
Ladies of fashion have borrowed from the Duchess of Guise, the heroine of the drama, entitled Henry III., the mode of carrying a pocket-handkerchief, surrounded by gold lace.
Besides the balustrade belonging to the staircase of a well furnished mansion, there are heads of lions in gilt bronze, placed at equal distances, and through the mouths is drawn a thick cordon of silk.
The terraces in the country are ornamented with Dahlias. These flowers take their name from Dahl, a Swedish botanist.
The confectioners now ice cherries in the same manner they iced the oranges last winter; these cherries are served up like ice, in saucers.
Guetres and half-boots are made of spotted and striped materials; violet is a favourite colour for these articles of female attire; some half-boots of leather are made to lace up the front.

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The following is another remarkable instance of the wonderful effects of OLDRIDGE’S Balm of Colombia, in restoring the hair.

Cambridge, April 17, 1829.

Gentlemen, Having fully experienced the salutary effects of your far famed Balm of Colombia, I hasten now to return you my most sincere thanks for the great benefit which I have derived from your Balm. I shall now proceed to state the particulars of the case, which, if you think proper, you are perfectly at liberty to make public. About December last my hair fell off my head very rapidly, and by the end of January, I had hardly any hair left, when a friend happening to mention your Balm to me, I resolved to purchase a bottle and try it, which I did, and found that it answered admirably, and that my hair began to grow very fast, and by the time I had used two six-shilling bottles I had a fine head of hair, which I continue to have.
I am, Gentlemen, your’s, &c.


To Messrs. C. and A. Olridge.

The Public are requested to observe, that, in consequence of the improvements, C. and A. OLDBRIDGE have removed from 361, Strand, to No. 1, WELLINGTON-STEET, Waterloo-bridge, Strand, where the Balm is sold wholesale and retail; and by most of the respectable Perfumers and Medicine Venders in London, and throughout the United Kingdom. Price 3s. 6d., 6s., and 11s. per bottle. Additional references will be given by the Venders, C. and A. Oldridge.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

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Back to July 1829

Newest London and Parisian Fashions for July 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

Plate the First



The females of these environs are not only remarkable for their Italian beauty, but also for a very peculiar kind of costume, which much sets off their outward attractions; and it is well known that, when they are habited like other European women, their beauty appears less striking.
The figure represented in our engraving may be regarded as a portrait, as it was actually taken from the life, and may be depended on as a classical representation of the most prevailing dress worn by the greater part of the females in the environs of Lac Maggiore.
The petticoat is of white satin, superbly ornamented at the border with rosettes in Chenille of bright crimson: these rosettes depend in rows, forming a very splendid border, and each row is headed by a bow of crimson ribbon, united together by a narrow rouleau of the same colour. The corsage is of black velvet or satin, with a kind of jacket-frill appendage round the waist, forming a sash; this also is crimson. In front of the corsage is a stomacher of yellow satin, checkered in crimson diamonds of ribbon, from whence depends a very narrow and short apron of the same. The sleeves are of Italian tiffany, white, and very full; a plain cuff confines them a little below the elbow; and the mancherons, instead of being loose, as they usually are, tighten the sleeve on the shoulder, and are formed en treillage, in crimson ribbon; a bow of which, with long ends, is placed on the top of each shoulder. The hair is arranged a la Madonna, and is ornamented with crimson Chenille, in a a very unique fashion; it is entwined among the cross braid of hair over that which is divided on the forehead; a full bow of the Chenille is then placed above each ear; and from these bows depend loops, at the termination of which is another bow just touching the shoulder. The other ornaments on the hair consist of a row, en aureole, of Glauvina-pins, with very long stalks of silver or gold, headed by ruby hearts. The ear-pendants are en girandoles, and are of finely-wrought gold. A black velvet-collar encircles the throat, fastened in front with a Chrysolite set in gold. The bracelets are of black velvet, clasped by a Cameo. Slippers of bronze-coloured satin, are laced en sandales.


A pelisse of white jaconot muslin, en tunique, embroidered down the sides, and over the broad hem which surrounds the border, in a delicate pattern of green. The body, en gerbe, confined round the waist by a small bow, with very long and broad ends, embroidered in a correspondent manner with the pelisse; as is a double pelerine cape and falling collar, which finish the corsage. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille, and are confined at the wrists by broad gold bracelets. The bonnet is of white chip, ornamented under the brim with stripes and points of white satin. The trimming on the bonnet is of chip and satin, disposed en fers de Cheval; among which are placed garden-lillies, and pale-blue larkspurs. The bouquet in front of the bonnet is larger and fuller than that on the left side. The strings are placed under the bonnet, and float loose.

Second Plate


A pelisse of muslin embroidered down each side of the front, where it is left open, and also above the hem round the border of the skirt; this latter embroidery is, however, of a slighter pattern than that down the sides. The body is plain, and confined at the waist by a white watered-silk ribbon, fastened in front by a gold buckle. The sleeves are a l’Orientale, unconfined at the wrist, and are embroidered next the hand. A double pelerine falls over the shoulders, each bordered with embroidery, and terminated by fringe or lace. A ruff, approaching to the commencement of the throat, finishes the pelerine; this is triple, and of fine lace, fastening in front by a bow of white satin ribbon. The hat is of white chip, trimmed with spring-green ribbon and branches of willow: a cornet of blond is worn underneath


FIG. 1. A carriage-hat of white chip; ornamented under the brim with white gauze striped ribbon. Full plume of white Marabout feathers in front; a smaller one drooping over the right side of the brim.
FIG. 2. A back view of the same hat.
FIG. 3. A back and front view of a crape hat, the colour of the Chinese-rose, trimmed with ribbons of the same colour, edged with hair-stripes of black, richly ornamented with white blond, and two esprits of green and fawn-colour.
FIG. 4. Front and back view of a promenade-hat of white gros-de-Naples, trimmed with white striped gauze ribbon: with a very broad blond at the edge of the brim.
FIG. 5. Front and back view of a blond cap; the double borders of which, in a Vandyck pattern, are turned entirely back. A rouleau of Corn-flower-blue ribbon surrounds the hair in front, with bows in three long loops over each temple. Similar bows are placed at the back of the head, with a rouleou separating the caul from the borders.

Plate the Third



A dress of celestial-blue gros de Naples, chequered in diamonds, in a hair stripe of darker blue. Two ornaments, set on flounce-wise, surround the border; they consist of points, waving across in bias; the points are edged by a dark blue rouleau; and each flounce-ornament is headed by a rouleau the same colour as the dress. The corsage is a la Roxelane; the front of the bust formed en chevrons, by rouleaux of light blue. The body is cut very low from the neck and shoulders, and surrounded by a falling tucker of lace; one row of which forms a mancheron over the. short sleeves. A bonnet of white chip is ornamented underneath with celestial blue ribbon; and the crown has a few bows of the same ribbon: in the front are placed two arched wreaths of flowers, one above the other; the lower arch consisting of very small roses, thickly grouped together; the upper, of blue bells. Long, broad strings of blue striped gauze ribbon float loose. Ear-rings and necklace of opal, set in gold a l’antique; bracelets of gold clasped with a cameo. Shoes of celestial blue kid, en sandales.


A pelisse of fine jaconot muslin, with a very broad hem round the border, of muslin, embroidered in large, diamond chequers; this ornament is headed by a full ruche of clear muslin, and the ruche surmounted by scalops, richly embroidered in spots; down the front of the skirt of the pelisse, where it fastens, is a ruche to correspond with that round the border, at one side of which are scalops embroidered in spots. The body is en gerbe; and is confined round the waist by a ribbon in a Chinese pattern, in the front of which is placed a rainbow fan, spread open, and seeming to form a part of the body en gerbe. The ends of the sash, which depend in front, are very broad and long ; and are of white ribbon, striped a la Chinoise, with canary yellow, blue, and marshmallow blossom, the same colours which form the stripes across the fan. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille, with a very broad cuff, tight at the wrist, the upper part only ruffled. A bracelet, consisting of two rows of coral beads, incircles the left wrist. A pelerine of fine India muslin, surrounded by a ruche of tulle, covers the neck, and is surmounted by a double ruff of lace, tied in front with a ribbon the same as the sash. The hat is of white gros de Naples, turned up slightly on the right side, with notched ends, formed into a rosette, of pink and white ribbon ; white gauze ribbons, with pink stripes, form the strings and ornaments on the hat, with beautifully grouped flowers, bent archwise in front, and a bouquet on the left side: they are chiefly red roses with their green foliage.


A dress of a light fawn Organdy, with a flounce round the border, embroidered in separate branches of blue and jonquil-coloured foliage, in coloured crewel: above this flounce is a rich border of embroidery, consisting of yellow and blue field flowers; these are surmounted by detached branches of foliage, corresponding with those on the flounce. The body is en gerbe, and is finished round the bust by a Paladin cape, embroidered at the edge in blue and yellow: under the dress is worn a fichu, surmounted by a double ruff of lace. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille; embroidered next the shoulder with dependant branches of blue and yellow foliage. At the wrist is a cuff, headed by antique points, which only are perceptible; the rest of the cuff being concealed by a broad bracelet of hair, fastened by an emerald, on the left hand, and a cameo on the right. The sash is embroidered to correspond with the work on the dress. The hat is of fine leghorn; and is ornamented under each side of the brim by a rosette of Cerulean blue ribbon, edged on one side by yellow; the hat ties under the chin by a mentoniere of blond, on the right side, with blue and yellow ribbon: three branches of fancy flowers, of the bell kind, wave in front of the crown, in the style of feathers; they are blue and yellow. Black kid half-boots complete the dress.
N.B. Back view of a Leghorn hat, trimmed with white, and Chinese rose-coloured ribbon: with branches of rose- Canterbury-bells, disposed like feathers.

Plate the Fourth



A dress of Lavender gros de Naples, with two flounces round the border, cut in points at the edges; the upper flounce headed by ornaments in triple points. A canezou spencer of embroidered tulle is worn over the dress, with the body made tight to the shape, and finished by a fichu-pelerine, with the cape cleft at the shoulders, and trimmed round with lace. A double lace ruff incircles the throat, with a bow of lavender ribbon in front. Sleeves a l’Imbecille, with very broad bracelets of white and gold enamel, fastened by a cameo head. A hat of white chip, ornamented with green and white feathers: a bow of green and white ribbon is placed under the brim on the right side. Neapolitan ear-rings in Mosaic. Half-boots of spring-green satin.


Over a white muslin petticoat, with two broad rows let in across of embroidered muslin, is worn a pelisse of corn-flower-blue watered gros de Naples. The pelisse is made without sleeves, and the collar turns back en schal; under the pelisse is worn a canezou of fine India muslin, laid in small plaits. The sleeves a l’Imbecille, with very broad plain cuffs, sitting close to the wrists. A jeannette collar of black velvet, with its gold ornaments, depends from the throat ; but the cross is not a la Jeannette; it is of the Maltese kind. The hat is of corn-flower blue crape, ornamented under the brim with points of satin, between which are quillings of blond. The crown is adorned with a profusion of blond, and two white esprit feathers on the right side: very long strings of broad blue ribbon, depend from each side of the hat.


FIG. 1. – A half-length back view of the figure above described.
FIG. 2. – Back view of a white chip hat, trimmed with pale pink and white ribbon, with a plume of pink feathers.


A dress of gros de Naples, the colour, Egyptian-sand; over two rouleaux of the same, next the shoe, is a very deep flounce, beautifully embroidered at the edge in a pattern of corn-flowers; elegant bouquets of which are worked on the dress above the flounce. The body is en gerbe, with a pointed zone, embroidered to suit the flowers on the skirt. The sleeves a la Mameluke, of a very moderate fullness, confined at the wrists by gold bracelets fastened by an emerald set in gold. A pelerine of fine muslin, fastens behind, and is surrounded by a superb broad lace, and a very full quadruple ruff of narrow lace surrounds the throat, yet not approaching too near the chin. A hat of white gros de Naples is beautifully ornamented with double exotic flowers of a cornflower-blue, with a light green esprit on the right side, and a few ears of corn on the left. Beneath the brim, at its edge, on the right side, is a small bouquet of the flower, “Forget-Me-Not,” and ears of ripe corn.


Very few have, as yet, been the departures for the country ; and they have taken place chiefly on account of declining health, or to preserve that of the younger part of a family, who may be at home for the summer recess. The capital, at the present moment, is a scene of splendour, from the numerous members of rank and fashion which grace her public walks, her elegant and scientific morning amusements, and her public spectacles.
True, these glories are arrived at their zenith, and ere another month shall have passed away, they will be fading from the horizon of our now gay metropolis; but the splendid parties given by royalty, and by the nobles of the land, have afforded lately by their brilliancy, an unrivalled scene of taste and magnificence, and have, also, it is hoped, been beneficial to native talent and industry.
A very beautiful bonnet for the carriage morning visiting dress, is of white crape, finished about the crown by ornaments of the same material, and with blond; under the brim are inlacings of white satin; and on the crown the puffs and ornaments are relieved by very light aigrettes of real marabout white feathers, being placed between, one of which appears beneath the left side of the brim. Another elegant carriage bonnet is of striped blond gauze, pink on white, and on the white space between the pink stripes, is a narrow variegated stripe of various colours, in brocade. This bonnet is ornamented by folds and en bateaux of pink satin, and of the same gauze-blond as the bonnet; the bows and strings, which latter are in a loop, are of steam-yellow satin, and plain pink doubled gauze, sewn together.
Among the new head-dresses is a cap for demi-parure, of tulle, the borders doubled in bias, and crowned by straw-coloured ribbons, long strings of which, in striped gauze, float loose. A cap, fitted for the theatre, is of rich blond, trimmed with Jaune-vapeur, striped gauze ribbon, and ornamented under the broad border, which turns back, over each temple, with bouquets of white, purple, and yellow narcissusses; these flowers are all double. A dress hat for the opera or for an evening party is of white clear net, lined with blue crepe- aerophone, and trimmed with the same, and with white tulle : two very long strings or lappets depend from the right side; they are formed of long puffings of white and blue crepe-aerophane; under the brim is a bandeau of the same, which crossing the forehead, terminates by a bar on the right side. A plume of blue ostrich feathers finishes the hat. A most superb dress-hat for a grand evening party, or for the opera, is of pink crape, bound with a bias edge of pink satin; an ornament of broad white blond appears, slightly full under the right side of the brim, with a loop of pink gauze ribbon; and a most splendid willow plumage of pink and white feathers, in stripes crosswise, covers the crown, and plays with grace and elegance over the brim. A dress hat for dinner parties, in rural excursions, is of white stiffened net, trimmed with white satin ribbon: under the right side of the brim is a small, full bouquet of white and crimson stocks, and a light plume of white marabouts waves over the crown. This hat is without strings, and the brim is very shallow behind, giving to the hat somewhat the appearance of a dress bonnet. A pink crape beret, with striped gauze pink ribbons, and worn either with or with-out feathers, according to the style of dress, is a very favourite coiffeure.
Except what we have represented in our engravings in the out-door department, there is scarce any change since last month, except the pelerine-mantelet of fine Indian muslin, richly embroidered, with long ends depending to the feet, the ends rounded. They are extremely elegant, as is the oriental pelisse of muslin, fringed and embroidered, and left open in front of the skirt; very loose sleeves of the true Persian kind, are left unconfined at the wrists.
The ball dresses consist of coloured crape, over white satin, and have nothing decisive as to the form of the corsages, or to their style of trimming, in which little alteration or novelty can be looked for, as they will now be so soon laid aside, except for the Fete Champetre, when, most probably, white tulle dresses will supersede every other.
The colours most admired are pink, etherial-blue, straw-colour, spring-green, violet, and jonquil.


HATS AND BONNETS. – Chesnut-blossoms, and those of the marshmallow, are favourite flowers on hats of every kind. Some white crape bonnets are ornamented with a wreath of blue-bells, with a wreath of the same flowers embroidered at the edge of the brim, and another underneath; in front of these bonnets is placed two bouquets of coquelicots, blue-bells, and ears of corn, disposed in a V.
Even in deshabille, a lady ought to have a superb demi-veil of blond round her hat. Bonnets, lined with rose-colour, prevail much in the country. All the flowers now worn on hats are placed in the style of feathers. Many bonnets are seen of green gros de Naples, tied down very close over the ears; there are also some bonnets, the fronts of which are of straw, and the crown of white gros de Naples.
There are some very charming bonnets made of ribbons sewn together; those of gauze are white and rose-colour, or blue and white ; they are placed alternately, and are surrounded by a broad blond; they are truly elegant. On white chip hats, are placed aigrettes of small feathers, half rose-colour and half white, or Jaune vapeur and white; these are much admired. White hats of gros de Naples are sometimes ornamented with a rosette, the two ends of which are finished by blue-feather fringe. A hat of white chip has been seen with six green feathers, placed one above the other.
Eight or ten tulips, with their green foliage, and feathers besides, often compose the ornaments on a leghorn hat; these flowers are placed in front of the crown. A Leghorn hat has been seen ornamented with gauze ribbon, appearing like blond; the colours ponceau and Chinese green: a branch of the winter-cherry, with its green leaves and scarlet fruit, surrounded the crown; the branch, by being bent, took a direction whereby it was lost under the brim. At the other part of the branch, at the summit of the crown, was perched a tom-tit, pecking at one of the cherries.
The way of trimming hats of gros de Naples, consists in placing at the front of the crown, a bias, in the form of an empty horn, and then filling this semblance of a horn with an abundance of flowers, thus rendering it a cornucopia. The horn is edged round with blond and a rouleau.
For the promenade in the fields or gardens, young persons wear straw bonnets; the brim is very large, and ties close down over the cheeks, they are lined with coloured gros de Naples; these bonnets have no other trimming than a band of ribbon, which encircles the crown, and of which the strings are formed.
Hats of straw, or white chip, are ornamented with branches of blue heath, placed in the manner of a bird-of-paradise plume; they are lined with blue crape, and a white blond veil is worn with them. There are some very charming bonnets of painted gros de Naples, which are trimmed at the edge of the brim with white blond: sometimes these bonnets have only the crown painted, and the brim is of white chip. The English hats are much worn in the morning walks, for shopping, and at coming from the baths. They are often of figured straw, and are lined with rose-coloured satin; they tie down with strings of the same, which constitute all their ornament. The riding-hats are of black beaver. Hats of white watered gros de Naples are bound and trimmed, with rose-coloured striped gauze ribbons. Under the brim is a bandeau with rosettes; above, bows and strings. Japanese roses are favourite, flowers on hats, and a demi-veil of blond is in universal esteem. Leghorn hats are lined with coloured gros de Naples. Green and white ribbons, with a double bouquet of lilies of the valley, are favourite ornaments on white chip hats; the ribbons cross the crown, in bias, and the bouquets are placed one on each side.

OUT-DOUR COSTUME. Cachemire shawls are worn when the weather is chill; when warm, scarfs of white lace are seen in the public walks.
Jacanot muslin pelisses arc much worn in the morning walks ; they are open before, and discover the petticoat; they are called pelisses a la Maitresse; on account of a favourite actress wearing such a dress in the dramatic piece “La Maitresse.”
Beneath the ruffs, worn round the neck, are collars, named a la fiancee; they consist of two points of taffety, or gros de Naples, of two different colours, which cross under a runner.
There are some new shawls, named Moresca-Cachemere; they are of two or three colours, and are ornamented at the corners by bouquets of flowers.
There are some pelisses of jaconot muslin, which are bordered by a very broad hem, separated from the other part of the skirt by letting in stripes of muslin, richly embroidered in feather-stitch. Almost all the shawls of Chinese crape have borders of different colours imprinted on them; but the most elegant are those which are worked in flat embroidery. In the country, a favourite out-door costume for young persons, consists of a plaited canezou with a petticoat of plain gingham. The canezou fastens by five or six buttons of gold, mother-of-pearl, or tortoise-shell.

DRESSES. Dresses of white muslin, or of Organdy, are very general; as are those of muslin, with very large patterns printed on them. Dresses of rose-coloured crape, with the corsage in drapery, have, above the broad hem at the border, which ascends as high as the knee, a full ruche, pinked, of rose crape.
Much care has been bestowed in giving firmness to the broad hems at the borders of dresses, in order that the skirt, which is still very short, may have that roundness which is now so particularly admired in ball-dresses. It has, indeed, been said, that some fashionable ladies have had whalebone introduced into the borders of their petticoats. One step more, and hoops may again become fashionable!
White canezous are so numerous, that to be distinguished in this way, they ought to be covered with embroidery, or trimmed with a profusion of lace, costing more than four or five times the price of the dress, over which they are worn. A young lady, recently married, having ingenuously expressed her partiality for this accessary to the toilet, found in her corbeille one so extremely beautiful, that for the space of a fortnight, it was an object of curiosity to all her female friends and acquaintance; it is estimated at six hundred franks.
It is not pleasant to be compelled to give always the true reason why fashions often bear a ludicrous though appropriate name; but the long and loose sleeves now worn without any support from the shoulder to the writs, are styled sleeves a l’imbecille.* {*And they are justly so named ; for they are exactly like those worn by the fool or clown in a pantomime, and the Chinese drolls, which perform such characters in their excellent plays. ED.}
At a fete extraordinary at Tivoli, a beautiful Italian wore a clear dress of printed muslin ; the ground, a Nankin colour, figured en colonnes, in Chinese designs ; the sleeves were a l’imbecille, with broad ruffles of embroidered tulle, and a pelerine to correspond. A very deep flounce bordered the dress; a scarf, called a printanniere, with flowers embroidered in coloured silks on a white ground.
Four very pretty young females wore dresses very tastefully trimmed; one was of slate-coloured gros de Naples, trimmed with tufted fringe; the second had a striped muslin dress, of a Persian pattern; the third a dress of Organdy, embroidered in oak-leaves, and acorns in green chervel; the fourth a dress of steam-yellow poplin.
High dresses are worn, and likely so to be during the sojournment in the country; they are made with a stomacher, and buttoned or laced behind. Some are of plain materials, and the front is cut in bias; others are plaited and stitched below the throat. The epaulettes descend very low, and the sleeves are kept in shape by a runner, and stitched at the opening at the wrists. With the above corsages a ruff only is worn, round the neck, and is of tulle. The bodies, which are made as canezous, are separate from the skirt. The cuffs come very low over the hands, and are ruffled.
A new kind of bias have appeared to embellish the summer evening costume, the charming shades of which seem to have been “dipt in the woof of Iris.” They are simple, graceful, and elegant. The tissue is of a transparent kind, and of a variety of colours ; these are named rainbows.
At the rural balls many ladies wear muslin dresses, the ground white, with a pattern over it of various colours, large green foliage with yellow and rose-coloured flowers, disposed in stripes ; these dresses are made with a a stomacher, and have sleeves a l’imbecille. The body is covered with a fichu of tulle, plain, with two stripes of embroidery let in. This fichu is in the form of a pelerine, and is edged round with narrow lace; its long ends are crossed over in front, and tie in a bow behind.
Perhaps it is to put an end, as soon as possible, to the the large sleeves, that they have been named, a l’imbecille. It must be confessed that they are universally adopted; however, a new form begins to appear; it is a l’amadis, very tight from the elbow to the wrist, while the upper part of the sleeve, which is extremely wide, falls above the elbow, like a kind of ruffle.
Fringes are universally used in trimmings. Above a broad hem have been seen points dependant, trimmed round the edges with fringe. Batistes are worn in every style of dress; they are often embroidered in colours, especially on white, and form a very pretty dress for the summer.
Dresses of straw-coloured Organdy are embroidered in wreaths of blue flowers; these represent heath, and are formed in stripes down the shirt, where they terminate above the hem by bunches of detached heath. The sleeves are of plain tulle, and are confined at the wrist by a cuff formed of a double row of pleated Alencon point lace, which lace trims the edge of the pelerine worn with this dress.
There is no change in the make of the riding-habits. Several have been seen of Swedish, the Merino, or of English green. At the promenades, and at the fetes-champetres, there are many dresses seen of muslin figured over in very large Persian patterns; while others have very small sprigs. In carriages are seen Egyptian patterns of every kind.
The most fashionable ginghams are those with very narrow and close stripes of rose-colour; the sleeves of such dresses are a l’imbecille, with the epaulettes formed like a half-moon. Two full, fluted flounces, finish the border of the skirt: the back and shoulders are much exposed. Most dresses are, however, bordered by a broad hem, over which are often three rows of flat braiding, placed apart from each other; over them a broad bias fold, surmounted also by three rows of braiding; this same kind of braiding is placed on the corsage, where it is out, away at the back and shoulders, and the front is en gerbe: this braiding, on coloured dresses, is white. The sashes are of bright jonquil, figured with brown, and these are named Chinese ribbons.
Every lady who goes to the nicety of fashion wears ruffles; they are of jacanot or embroidered muslin, and are only full next the wrist. Others have a frill at the wrist and also at the upper part. The ruffles are of fine muslin laid in small plaits, and edged with Valenciennes lace.

HEAD-DRESSES. The summer fashion of wearing the hair in evening dress, without any ornament, has commenced even among the members of royalty. The tresses are arranged in a bandeau over each temple, three bows on the summit of the head, and at their base a plat, which is wound round, to form the elevation. The dress hats are of white chip, with two tails of the bird-of-paradise placed end to end at the summit of the crown. A rosette of saffron-coloured ribbon fastens these feathers in front. Another rosette is placed at the base of the crown behind ; and a third, more full, is seen on the left side, almost at the edge of the brim. The ends of a ribbon, which, at the top, goes round the crown, are spread out, and are united to the last mentioned rosette. The strings of the hat are trimmed.
Caps, a la fiancee, are ornamented with blue flowers, they are placed very backward; and the hair is in full clusters over each temple. Berets of white crape, in full dress, are encircled by silver lace bands, placed at equal distances. A beret-toque a l’Italienne, in rose-coloured crape, is trimmed with a very full plume of rose-coloured feathers. Some head-dresses, in hair, are simply ornamented with a large full-blown rose, or a piony, placed behind, and quite at the summit of the head. At the last performances at the German theatre, the ladies had all head-dresses in hair, or blond caps. The favourite head-dress for balls in the country, is a fine Leghorn hat placed quite at the back of the head, and ornamented with two long branches of white-thorn in blossom, placed arch-wise, one above the other; white gauze ribbons, with broad satin stripes, and a small cornette of blond, tying under the chin; two broad strings of gauze ribbon stream behind, one descending from the summit of the crown, the other at its base. The hair, arranged a la Judith, that is to say, brought near on the forehead to its centre; then falling, in very full curls, one over the other to the throat. A picture of Judith, by Paul Veronese, represents her with her hair arranged in this manner. Some dress hats are of white chip, and are ornamented with flowers, which vibrate on their stalks.
At the theatres are seen many small caps, the crowns of which are in treillage work, formed of pink and satin rouleaux, and the front of gauze ribbons, cut into leaves; there is no blond introduced in these caps.
In the country have been seen several female dancers, whose heads were ornamented with natural flowers; poppy, blue-bells, laurel-roses, pinks, and pomegranite-blossoms. These flowers had long stalks, and were placed be- hind the bows of hair which formed the summit of the head-dress. Some fashionable ladies have essayed at the Opera, and at the Theatre Favart, to adorn their hair also with natural flowers; but the heat of these places soon faded them, before the performance was half over.

JEWELLERY. Jewels begin to decline in favour. There are but few bracelets worn, unless in full dress. The Chatelaines seem not to accord with summer costumes; a key of gold, fastened to a neck-chain, seems most in vogue. A new fashion, however, which is as original as genteel, is that of small enamelled smelling-bottle, in the form of a watch, fastened by a very pretty chain to a ring, which is placed on the finger over the glove; this little smelling-bottle, which escapes from it, is taken back again, falls again, and yet remains always suspended to the finger: this is a species of bijou, that may serve to replace in summer, the fans which are so much played with during the winter.
The newest bracelets are of tortoise-shell, some dark, some light. The round of the bracelet is ornamented with subjects in gold, stamped in relief; in the centre of the bracelets are antique heads in Cameos, or paintings in colours on china, called enamel. Sometimes portraits on ivory, or birds formed of feathers by a metallic process. These bracelets open and shut, in the manner of the old necklaces named carcans.
Smelling-bottles of crystal, which ladies now wear suspended from their necks, or to their sash, are covered with gold net-work, through which is seen the colour of the crystal.
A large chain of gold is usually thrown over the neck, to which is fastened a gold key; the head of which is surrounded by turquoises.
In the room of the vinaigrettes which the ladies wore suspended to their neck-chains, there is now a rose of gold, enamelled, or of valuable gems, which opens by a spring. In it is contained some drops of the Otto of Roses, which scent is predicted by the emblem.

MISCELLANEOUS. Instead of carrying the bouquet in the hand, the ladies now pass it through the sash.
High-heeled shoes are about to be introduced; there have already appeared some shoes, with the heel raised in the interior part of the sole, which raises the instep, and is supposed to give grace to the gait. At all events, if the heels continue to be made only in this way, they will not have the ridicule attached to them like those worn by our great grandmothers.
There have been various opinions concerning the colour of Jaune-Vapeur; some affirm, and we think justly, that it takes its name from that lurid kind of smoke, which oft’times issues from steam-machines; and steam being so much in vogue, our linguists have not hesitated in pronouncing it to be steam-yellow. The Parisians, however, affect to have found out, that a celebrated actress, whenever she had the vapours, turned that (now fashionable) colour!
Formerly mourning was laid aside on account of a marriage, or any other important event taking place in a family ; it is now suspended for a ball, a concert, or any extraordinary performance at the theatre.
Half-boots, of a dark colour, generally brown, and very square-toed, are very much in favour; some of these boots button up the front.
There is a goblet, now termed a family-glass, which contains about nine or ten of a moderate size; these are used in rambling {What the English call “gipsying.”} dinners about the country.
Gaiters, of grey gros-de-Naples, are worn with almost every kind of shoe.
For some time pincushions have been made of the most varied and curious forms. They represent small dolls of a grotesque kind, which, stuffed with bran, receive the puncture of a thousand pins. This invention is also seen in portable bells. They are in bronze, in gilding, and of every kind of composition; and which are truly of a very original kind.
Scotch marriages are very fashionable among parties in the country, and in all those meetings which are likely to last a certain time. As many different flowers are collected as there are ladies in the assembly, and they are inclosed in a basket. The same ceremony takes place among the gentlemen. When each of these draws a flower, by chance, it is united to a flower of the same kind.
During all the time of the marriage, the husband submits to all the caprice and will of his wife. ” Sir, order the carriage; hold the bridle of my borriko; teach me to waltz, dance very fast, en galop; please to bring me my shawl, give me a glass of Orgeat, &c. &c.” When the party breaks up, every one regains his liberty.


A gothic kind of coffer is in better taste than what is styled a corbeille. Either corbeille or coffer have a lock which is made secure by a key which the bride has suspended to her chattelaine, or her chain, which is a part of the presents made her on the day her contract is signed.
The trousseau (paraphernalia of the bride,) must not be confounded with the corbeille, (or coffer containing the presents made her) both are separately destined to the personal use of the bride; but the trousseau is furnished by the parents, generally the grandfather and grandmother; the corbeille is offered in homage by the future husband.
The trousseau, by its abundant utility, ought to be estimated above the objects of fashion contained in the corbeille.
As for the trousseau, which is a requisite affair, the father, the mother, the uncles or aunts, and the guardians ought to provide for all that may be wanting; in regard to the corbeille, nothing is required from the future bride-groom, but taste and gallantry.
Whatever dimensions the corbeille may be of, it will not contain all the offerings made; but it will accompany them.
Among the articles surrounding the corbeille of a young bride belonging to one of the higher classes, we remarked:
– A white dress of Chantilly lace, in a pattern, forming stripes, it had two flounces! and was to be worn over white satin, another dress was of rose-coloured satin.
– A cachemire dress, the colour Chinese-green, embroidered in silk of the same colour, shaded: it had a flounce cut in sharp points. The pattern was slight, and of a running kind.
– A dress of Navarin-blue satin, trimmed with a deep flounce of white Chantilly blond, in a very rich pattern.
– The dress to be worn at the altar was of English point-lace.
– A hat of Leghorn, extremely fine, surmounted by two magnificent willow-feathers, of the new kind, appearing like united tassels ; they were white, and hung in different stages, one above the other.
– A hat of bright rose-coloured crape, overshadowed by a willow-feather of the same colour, very large.
– A Grenada-toque with an open crown, ornamented with white ostrich feathers. A cardinal’s hat of Jaune vapour, adorned in the same manner.
– A cap of white blond, a la fiancee, with bows of blond-gauze ribbon, rouleaux of satin and flowers, all blue: the lappets of blond.
– A toque of cherry-coloured gauze, interwoven with gold. A turban of rose-coloured crape, spotted with silver. A beret of Lyonese silk of a fancy kind.
– Three Indian shawls of Cachemire; one en noir arlequin. A scarf of Mecklin-lace.
– Jewels in coloured stones, some engraven, others plain; a set of Scotch pebbles; a comb, necklace and ear-rings, with twelve ears of corn, all in brilliants; with a buckle of the same for a sash.
– A fan of mother-of-pearl. A white purse, embroidered with pearls and polished steel; this should contain some valuable pieces of gold coin : in the purse given to the young French lady recently married, were gold pieces of twenty and forty franks, with which it was filled.
– When a young lady is married, she receives from her husband, a basket filled with flowers, bijouterie, feathers, and other articles of fancy: such is the custom in France. In China, when a young female is betrothed, she finds, at night, in the bridal chamber, thread, cotton, needles, a thimble, and a pair of scissors.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to August 1829

Back to June 1829

Newest London and Parisian Fashions for June 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of Alt Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

Plate the First

The Spanish dresses we have before presented to our readers, were those worn only occasionally by females of the higher classes; we have an opportunity of presenting them with a costume now, worn by ladies of rank and fashion, in the delightful province of Andalusia.
Much intercourse, in time of peace, has been established between this part of Spain and England, ever since we have been firmly and quietly settled at Gibraltar. The ladies dress in a peculiar style, but not exactly Spanish; their costume resembling very much that of France and England; the well marked out waist, and the beautiful leg and foot, every Spanish woman will take care to make the best of; and when she possesses these attractions in an eminent degree, as the females of Spain certainly do, we must not fall out with them for making rather an unusual display of their taper ancles.
Over a slip of white taffety, is worn a dress of Barbary-gauze, handsomely ornamented at the border by a very broad fringe, formed of blue brocaded ribbon, in treillage work; and terminated at the mesh next the shoe by small knots of ribbon. The body is ornamented, downwards, by stripes of narrow blue ribbon, and a narrow black stomacher is worn in front of the waist; from whence depends an apron with a border at the end like that on a scarf, of white brocade, spotted with black. The small pockets, which are usually affixed to our modern aprons, are in this dress on each side of the petticoat; they are ornamented with ruby-coloured ribbons, and the fair Andalusian has a custom, not very graceful, of continually placing her hands on, or in them. The body is made low, and very becomingly so with a full triple falling tucker, in which Spanish points are not forgotten. The sleeves are en jigot, of the same white gauze as the dress, and over them, is the sleeve we call Seduisante, of the same treillage work and colour as the fringe on the skirt. The bracelets, confining the sleeves at the wrists, are of white and gold enamel, intermixed with rubies. The head-dress consists of a very small Spanish hat of black satin, with a beautiful white plumage of Herons’ feathers. Under this hat is worn an elegant cap of blond, en bouffont, the lappels kept in shape by narrow bands across, of white satin, with each a small rosette on the outside; these lappels are confined together at the breast by a small rosette of purple ribbon; below which, is one of white, with a loop, from whence depends a bow of black ribbon, with long ends; this is one of those whimsicalities of fashion, of which we cannot see the use or ornament. Round the throat is a plat of dark hair, with a gold Coeur de Jesus depending. The shoes are of white satin, with silk stockings, brocaded in buskins.


Over a pink satin slip, a dress of crape of the same colour, finished at the border by a very broad hem, over which are placed, obliquely, wreaths of puffed ribbon, about three shades darker than the dress. The body a la Sevigne, with a very splendid, large brooch, formed of aqua-marinas in the centre of the drapery, across the bust. Short, full sleeves, of white blond over white satin, somewhat shorter. The head-dress consists of a beret of pink satin, with a superb plume of white feathers, under the right side of the brim, which is much elevated; these feathers take a spiral direction towards the crown. The ear-pendants and necklace are of diamonds.


A dress of embroidered tulle over white satin, encircles the pattern stripes of foliage; one very broad flounce ornament finishes the border, headed by cockleshells of white satin, on which is embroidered a fleur de lis; the flounce is edged in a correspondent manner, but with the shells dependent, and from the base of the shell, which is upper-most, branches out delicate foliage, formed of white satin: the corsage is a la Sevigne; but the plain part fitting the waist is so beautifully disposed in bias, that the stripes on the tulle, have a very charming effect. The sleeves are long, excessively wide, a la Mameluke. The Sevigne drapery confined in the centre by a brooch, en girandole, of diamonds, set a l’Antique. The hair is elegantly and becomingly arranged, in curls and bows; or rather one large bow, formed of two light puffs, one near the face, the other approaching the summit of the head. These are divided by an ornamental kind of bandeau of blond, and the head is crowned by orange-flower blossoms on one side, and double garden-poppies, of a lilac colour, on the other. Long lappels of broad blond, depend from each side of the head behind, and fall gracefully over the shoulders. The necklace and ear-rings are of wrought gold and diamonds, with bracelets to suit.

FIG. 1. New sleeve, a la Seduisante, of rich blond; headed next the shoulder by a full rosette of white satin ribbon.
FIG. 2. Back view of the coiffeure of the third figure in “Bridal costume.”

Second Plate

A dress of white jacanot muslin, with a broad flounce, the flounce headed by a full cordon, formed of celestial-blue braiding; this flounce is slightly scalloped at the edge, where it is finished with a narrow lace. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by a cuff, with one sharp point, which is trimmed round with the same narrow lace as that at the edge of the flounce. A ruffle of the same is placed next the hand. A canezou fichu of celestial-blue silk, with a brocaded border of blue and white, is worn with this dress, with its short ends drawn through a belt of the same colour; the fichu is bound round the edge with straw-coloured satin; a triple ruff of lace encircles the throat. The hat is of celestial-blue gros de Naples, trimmed with white gauze ribbon with satin stripes, and ornamented in front of the crown, with a bunch of the aspen-tree. A veil of white blond is worn with this hat. The gloves are of lemon-coloured kid, and the half-boots of celestial blue gros de Naples.


CENTRE FIGURE. – A pelisse of spring-green watered gros de Naples, fastening down the front of the skirt, under a rouleau; each side of which is ornamented by rosettes of plumb-coloured satin; a rouleau of which colour and material is placed round the border of the skirt, next the shoe. The sleeves are en jigot, and very wide, and are confined at the wrists by broad gold bracelets, splendidly enchased, and ornamented also by intaglios, set round by pearls. A canezou fichu of black blond, is worn over the shoulders, left open in front, discovering the body of the pelisse which is made entirely plain, surmounted at the throat by a very full ruff of blond. The bonnet is of white gros de Naples, trimmed with a profusion of lilac ribbon, striped with spring-green; it ties under the chin, with a large bow of the same ribbon. The half-boots are of plumb-coloured kid.


A high dress of steam-yellow-figured gros de Naples, trimmed next the feet, with a simple double rouleau. The body made a la Circassienne, fastened by a rich broach of jewels. The sleeves a la Mameluke, with bracelets of white Vene- tian beads, edged on each sides with gold. The throat encircled by a ruff. Bonnet of pink satin, elegantly trimmed with the same material.
N. B. A bonnet is represented in this plate (a back view) of butter-cup yellow gros de Naples, trimmed with lilac ribbon, and branches of lilac. A broad white blond surrounds the edge of the brim.

Plate the Third

A pelisse of apricot-coloured gros de Naples; at the head of the broad hem surrounding the skirt, and down the front where it fastens, are lozenge puffings, each puff edged by extremely narrow silk beading, about two or three shades darker than the pelisse. The body is a la Circassienne, and is confined at the small of the waist by a belt the same as the dress, fastened in front by a gold buckle. Sleeves a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by a Manchette cuff. Pointed mancherons are placed over the sleeves, on each shoulder. The pelisse is made without cape or collar, and is surmounted by a very full ruff of fine lace. The bonnet is of spring-green gros de Naples, trimmed with a variegated ribbon of straw-colour and bright geranium. On the straw-coloured part are clouds of green and geranium; a few puffs of the same colour and material as the bonnet are mingled with the bows of ribbon on the crown. Half-boots of kid, the colour of the pelisse, complete the costume.


A high dress of celestial-blue Levantine or tabinet, with a broad hem round the border, headed by a rich fringe of silk. The body made plain to fit the shape, with very wide sleeves a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by gold bracelets. A double pelerine is worn with this dress, as an out-door appendage, finished at each edge by a fringe corresponding with that over the hem on the skirt; this pelerine is surmounted by a ruff of blond. The hat is of white gros de Naples, ornamented with blond and the yellow flower called “Soloman’s Seal,” with green foliage. A veil of white blond is added, and a splendid throat-scarf, with long ends, depending to the feet is worn; it is of the Cachemire white, with the ends richly brocaded in various colours, and finished by a deep fringe the colour of the scarf. This dress is fitted to the morning exhibitions, &c.


No. 1. – A dress of striped muslin, the ground, canary-yellow, with stripes of ethereal blue. A canezou of muslin, trimmed with lace, and without sleeves, is worn with this dress, the sleeves of which are a la Mameluke. The waist is encircled by a belt of blue ribbon, fastened in front with an oblong buckle of gold. The canezou, which has a pelerine-cape, surmounted by a lace ruff, ties in front, with a rosette of blue ribbon. The hat is of white gros d’ Ete, striped with blue, and is trimmed with bows of white gauze ribbon, and ornamented with bouquets of the leaves of the pine-apple.
No. 2. – A back view of an opera dress of pink crape, with blond full, short sleeves, ornamented at the shoulders with bows of white satin ribbon. Hat of pink crape, or of satin, with a white feather under the brim, taking its direction to the crown, which is slightly trimmed with white gauze ribbon.

FIG. 1. – A back view of the hat on the second Walking-Dress, crowned with double pink garden poppies.
FIG. 2. – Back view of the hat on No. 1. Half-length figure. The hat all white, with a full-blown rose added to the pine-leaves.

Plate the Fourth

A dress of white organdy, with a broad hem round the border, above which are bouquets of variously-coloured flowers embroidered in crewels; a canezou of tulle, worked in a corresponding manner, forms the corsage, which is confined round the waist by a belt of Pomona-green satin, with a Chatelaine chain and key of gold; the belt fastens by a gold buckle in front. The mancherons on the sleeves are formed of points embroidered in colours, and edged with narrow lace, over which is a very narrow rouleau of Pomona-green satin. A cuff confines the sleeve at the wrist, which cuff is pointed, and on it is worked a small bouquet of flowers in different colours. An elegant blond cap is worn with this dress, lightly ornamented with scrolls of white satin and various small flowers; and broad strings of white striped gauze ribbon float over the shoulders.


A dress of oiseau de Paradis satin, ornamented at the border by two rows of white gauze bouillones; over which are placed across, in bias, trimmings of amber-silk, representing foliage: the upper bouillone is headed by silk cordon of the same colour as the foliage ornaments; and, at equal distances, are seen, dependant from the cordon, two superb tassels. The body is made plain, with a very deep falling tucker of rich blond. The sleeves very short, and a tassel descends from the shoulder to the elbow; two tassels, also, ornament the front of the bust, from a cordon which heads the tucker. The coiffeure consists of a dress hat of white crape, with a superb plumage of white feathers, playing over it in every direction. A large rosette of white gauze figured ribbon is placed next the hair, under the brim on the right side. The necklace and ear-pendants are of gold. The bracelets of gold and enamel in different colours; two on each wrist. The shoes of white satin, with very small bows.


A dress of white jaconot muslin, with a very broad hem, headed by a beautiful fringe, with the upper part in open work. Above the fringe is a row of embroidery. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, with an embroidered cuff at the wrist, surmounted by a full ruffle-frill of muslin, with a narrow lace edging. An embroidered fichu-shawl, trimmed round with lace, is worn with this dress; the ends drawn through a belt of white gros de Naples, on which is painted a wreath of blue flowers. The hat is of Barbel-blue crape, trimmed with broad ribbon of the same colour, white blond, and bracelets of white lilac.
N. B. A back view of the hat above described.
A fashionable cap of blond, – a back view, – trimmed with Barbel-blue ribbon.


Though the Spring has been somewhat backward, we may now venture to pronounce the Winter to have completely passed away: London is, however, a scene of gaiety and splendour. Balls and grand evening parties still continue, though their reign will now be but short; the Royal Academy of Paintings, and the various morning exhibitions are thronged with the most distinguished members of rank and fashion; the taste and elegance of whose dress it has been our task to investigate, as it is now to present the result of our observations to our numerous patronesses.
For these morning lounges, and for the retired home afternoon costume, we have much admired a high dress of lavender-coloured Norwich-crape; it is bordered by one broad flounce, in sharp points, bound by black satin, and headed by three narrow black satin rouleaux, and bows the same material and colour as the dress, bound round in bias by black satin. The body fastens in front en pelisse, with a falling square collar, partially pointed, and bound with black satin. The sleeves fit almost tight to the arm, and have a chemisette-sleeve-Mancheron, and at the wrists a gauntlet-cuff. A belt incircles the waist the same as the dress, and is bound in a manner corresponding with the other trimmings. One of the newest evening dresses is of white crepe-Aerophane over white satin: two very broad bias folds surround the border of the skirt, headed by white satin rouleaux: the corsage is ornamented across the top of the bust, en Chevrons, by satin rouleaux, and pointed at the base of the waist; which, as well as the Chevrons, is finished, by beautiful blond. The sleeves are en jigot, with a broad gauntlet cuff of white satin, ornamented by a row of very small gold Almeida buttons, set very close together in bias, on the outside of the cuff. For the other novelties in the gown department we refer our readers to our engravings for June Fashions.
For the out-door costume a very beautiful Summer cloak for the open carriage, has just been completed at Mrs. Bell’s tasteful Magazin de Modes in Cleveland Row. This cloak is of gros de Naples of a bright jonquil, and is lined with white sarcenet; it envelops, while it sets off the shape, and is devoid of all ornament. A pelisse of emerald-green Indian reps silk is equally admired; it is ornamented down each side of the bust, and where it closes in front of the skirt, with green satin, in zig-zag. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, with a gauntlet cuff, terminating in a point towards the upper part of the arm, where there is an ornament representing a fleur de lis, in narrow rouleaux of green satin. A narrow cape collar, in Castillan points, falls over from the throat.
Among the new hats and bonnets is qne of the latter, formed of plaided silk, the ground of which is fawn, with chequers of pink and black satin, formed of very narrow stripes, is trimmed with a rich broad ribbon of dark chocolate brown, edged on one side with a green satin stripe, on the other with blue. Scrolls of the same material as the bonnet ornament the crown, interspersed with the ribbon above mentioned, and tropic birds; feathers, of pink and yellow, complete the embellishments. A rose-coloured satin bonnet, figured in lozenge-diamonds, is of a shape less becoming than the one before described; this is extremely evase; but is filled up by a trimming under the brim, of gauze ribbons striped with black, blue, and yellow. The bows on the bonnet, and the loop-strings are pink with a stripe of yellow, clouded with blue. A small, pink, spiral feather, finishes the trimming. A very elegant bonnet is of white gros de Naples, with broad stripes across, the colour of the Parma-violet: it is very tastefully trimmed with ornaments of the same, bound with Canary-yellow: the bows are of gauze ribbon; a Spring green, striped with white and green satin. A very handsome carriage bonnet is of etherial-blue satin, with a quilling of blond under the brim, next the hair. At the edge are placed, beneath two Esprits, that on the right side, rose colour and white, on the left, white and yellow; the bonnet is bound at the edge by a plaid ribbon, the chequers of very lively colours on a white ground; the bows and strings are of straw-coloured ribbon beautifully clouded with bark-brown, rose-colour, and violet. A most superb plumage of blue, curled feathers, plays over the crown and brim.
A blue net beret-turban is of a novel and truly elegant shape; it is laid in fluted folds, and next the hair, is placed, on one side, an esprit feather of straw-colour. On the opposite side, and nearer the summit, is another feather of the same colour, representing the tail of the bird-of-Paradise, which gracefully depends over towards the shoulder. A turban of pink satin and crape, in the turkish form, is elegantly ornamented with white Marabouts, in various directions. Berets are of white crape, with a bow of satin ribbon, cut in fringe at the ends, tailing over the left side of the hair, under, the brim. A superb plumage of white flat Ostrich feathers finishes this head-dress. The blond caps have experienced but little alteration since last month; one for half dress is of beautifully figured gauze; black, with pink figures. It is adorned with pink Canterbury-bells, in bouquets, and pink gauze ribbons, striped with black. A favourite cap for home costume, a la fiancee, is of rich white blond and tulle, and is trimmed with jonquille-coloured gauze, and rouleaux of satin ribbon of the same tint.
A beautiful article for dresses has just appeared; the ground of some chaste, unobtruding colour, with satin stripes of the same on gros de Naples, between the stripes are heart’s-eases, of every different colour, brocaded.
The colours most admired are stone-colour, lavender, jonquille, rose-colour, etherial-blue, and emerald-green.
GREASE SPOTS. The following method of removing grease and oil spots from silk and other articles, without injury to the colours, is given in the Journal des Connaisances Usuelles: Take the yolk of an egg and put a little of it on the spot, then place over it a piece of white linen, and wet it with boiling water: rub the linen with the hand, and repeat the process three or four times, at each time applying fresh boiling water: the linen is to be then removed, and the part thus treated is to be washed with clean cold water.


HATS AND BONNETS. – The most elegant hats are generally seen finished at the edge of the brims by a very broad blond, as broad as a quarter and half-quarter of an ell, which forms a demi-veil. Several chip hats are so ornamented. Feathers of cherry-colour recline gracefully over the brim. On Leghorn hats, one simple branch of flowers falls on one side, or one large flower, accompanied by a slight portion of foliage. The strings, which tie the hats under the chin, are edged with blond en ruche; bonnets of blue or steam-coloured gros de Naples, are very shallow in the crown; it is rather round, and the edge is bordered with blond; these bonnets are extremely pretty. There are some of straw-colour, also, lined with pink, and ornamented with roses; others in white crape, with coloured linings, and trimmed with ribbons and flowers of suitable shades to the lining. Two hats have been seen, entirely made of blond, divided by bands of satin. Those of coloured crape are ornamented by branches of lilacs. Some hats, of fine Leghorn or white chip, have no ribbons, but are embellished by two birds of paradise; a simple ribbon fastens these hats, which are exclusively worn by women of the first fashion, under the chin. A branch of white camelia is a favourite ornament on a white chip hat; it is placed obliquely, from the summit of the crown on the left side, and is brought to the edge of the brim on the right. Several hats of yellow or of lilac crape have been seen at the Marchandes des Modes, ornamented with hyacinths of various colours, fixed at the base of the crown, in front. For white chip hats, the favourite flower is the poppy, either single or double, with three or four buds; at the base of the flower is always a rosette of gauze ribbon. Among other hat-ornaments is the variegated laurel. Another is the canary-bell-flower, the chalice of which blows out like a puff.
In general, both the chip and Leghorn hats, are smaller than they were last summer; but the flowers now that ornament them are voluminous; such, for example, as a large branch of pine, chesnut-tree, and from other large trees When a poppy is placed on one side of a white chip hat, it is not unusual to add to it a branch of green heath and a large full-blown rose. The ribbon trimming consists of two separate bows; one, very full, is placed on the summit of the, on one side, and the other, having only two loops on the brim, on the opposite side. The inside of the brim s ornamented with bows, blond, and leaves, cut out of ribbons. Some strings are worn fastened to the crown, and are passed through sliders on the brim, and tie under the chin. Several hats are trimmed with blond, which crosses the front of the crown, and is supported by branches of flowers; it terminates on each side of the brim, where the slider is fixed for the strings to pass through. Among some of the most elegant hats, may be cited one of fine straw, lined with blue crape, and ornamented by five feathers, half blue and half straw-colour. Hats of rose-coloured crape are surrounded by a broad blond. One bow of gauze ribbon is added to a branch of heath, which falls like a weeping-willow over the brim. Several hats of crape, or of Gros de Naples, of steam-colour, are adorned with flowers and blue ribbons; the flowers are red.
There are two shapes very distinct in the Leghorn hats: those a la Francais, are short at the ears; those a l’Anglaise, are, on the contrary, very long: a poppy, with buds, forms the trimming on the first; on the latter, it is a branch of whitethorn, slightly bent. Instead of flowers, large bows of ribbon are sometimes placed over the brims of some Leghorn hats, spread out at a distance from each other, like a fan. Almost all the hats of gros de Naples are edged with a broad blond. Some ladies place on a yellow or a lilac hat, a black blond, and a green blond on a rose-coloured hat.
A new way of ornamenting white chip hats under the brims, consists in taking a ribbon with satin stripes, then twisting it, and afterwards disposing it in puffs; this row of puffing goes from one string to the other.
Some hats, the crowns of which are of spotted gauze, have the brims entirely of blond, or of ribbon and blond. These brims are supported by means of wired ribbon, concealed under narrow rouleaux of satin.
Green, either in ribbons or flowers, is the most fashionable colour for Leghorn hats. Poppies, heath, young fir, all are green.
In elegant deshabille, the bonnets are of fancy straw, striped or chequered; they are lined with white, or with coloured gros de Naples.
OUT-DOOR-COSTUME. – Muslin canezous are very universal over silk dresses, or a pelerine the same as the dress.
The riding-habits are made long, especially behind; they are often of violet colour, with the corsage of velvet; the buttons wrought in or mat.
Some riding-habits have appeared of lapis-blue cloth, with silver buttons, set on in the hussar style. The collars and lappels of riding-dresses resemble those on a man’s coat. The cravat is white, and the shirt collar, also, has the same masculine appearance. The shirt is laid in large plaits, and is fastened by five buttons in gold enamel.
The Ibis is now seen to triumph over the boa tippets; this bird, so sacred to the Egyptians, is now beautifully imitated in painting and embroidery on summer shawls of slight texture, which bear the title of that bird with which they are ornamented; and we need not doubt but what it will possess, under the empire of beauty, that power which it enjoyed during the time of the Pharoahs. Under the folds of the boas, an allegory easy to comprehend, commanded their admirers to fly from them; the serpent was reposing on flowers; but the shining plumage of the mysterious bird, gives to them an additional charm, and if it inspires for them a respect less profound than heretofore, it is yet still more capable of establishing their power by affording them that of gaining discretion from a law so inviolable to the initiated of former ages; for, when Cambyses usurped Egypt, Peluse was about to open its gates, but desisted at the sight of some of these birds, which interposed between him and the enemy, and such was the respect and veneration which they inspired, that for fear of wounding them or only terrifying them during the attack, the Egyptians remained inactive and the town was taken.
Several summer shawls have been invented to satisfy Parisian caprice; amongst which are the Egyptian and Tartarian shawls. Some of real cachemire have also recently arrived.
Pelerines, the colour of the dress, are trimmed with the same fringe as appears round the border. The richest kind is the corded fringe; they are excessively broad.
A favourite dress for the public walks is one of cambric, with two pelerines, each edged with a narrow mechlin lace.
DRESSES. – The sleeves a l’Amadis are much in vogue, with a short full sleeve underneath, and a narrow ruffle at the wrist. Some of the sleeves yet continue very wide, but this fullness terminates just above the elbow, where it is confined, and the rest sits close to the arm. White sleeves are worn with silk dresses and with coloured muslins, canezous in muslin or tulle prevail much, the former are embroidered in feather-stitch. The trimming of the epaulettes and of the pelerines descends very low over the sleeves, and has the effect of a small sleeve; double ruffles are worn at the wrists; one falls over the hand, the other stands up next the arm. Broad hems are the favourite borders to the skirts, the only novelty is in the narrow heads above the hem. Yet the most eminent dress-makers continue to make gowns with deep flounces, especially on those of muslin. The most original mode shews itself in Canezous of Organdy, or white muslin embroidered with coloured crewel. There has also appeared a canezou-fichu of coloured gros de Naples; these fichus are worn with white dresses. The number of dresses trimmed with fringe, with the head of the fringe curiously wrought, increases daily.
The corsages are almost all made plain; those with a point are no longer worn. Gowns for dress parties have all drapery across the bust. The white canezous, which are embroidered in coloured crewel, are worn over a petticoat of the same colour as the embroidery. Dresses of gros de Naples have often a pelerine the same as the gown, trimmed with a broad fringe, a row of which ornaments the border and ascends as high as the knee. The sleeves a la Mameluke, with broad plaited cuffs. The sashes are of very broad ribbon, the same colour as the dress, without ends, and fastened behind by a gold buckle.
The dresses are made so short in front, that the stocking is seen above the half-boot, or the gaiter.
Ball dresses are bordered with one or two flounces of Chantilly blond, and with rouleaux of the same colour, but not of the same texture as the dress; they are of satin, when the dresses are tulle, or crape, or gauze. Two or three of these rouleaux, separated from each other, the space between about as wide as the rouleau, or double the breadth, are placed just below the knee, then repeated in an equal number, but near a foot distant from the others.
Instead of these rouleaux, the dress of a lady was seen ornamented with silver lama on Navarin-blue. The belt and the drapery of the corsage were also interwoven with silver. A cherry-coloured ball-dress had a gold ornament
about a hand’s breadth, above the knees. White Organdy dresses are trimmed with a broad satin ribbon, in the middle of which is a gold stripe; the sash is the same but narrower. Beret sleeves are covered with blond en oreilles d’ elephant; or the sleeves are trimmed with puffs of ribbon to answer those of the sash. Several dresses are seen of lilac gros de Naples, or of Indian-green, or salmon colour, striped with cordons of flowers. The dress-makers continue to make the gowns very short in front, a little longer at the sides, and long behind. Painted silks are worn in full dress, in bouquets; a glazed gros de Naples is of the changeful and beautiful colour of the turtle dove’s neck; a dress of mass muslin, with white canezou, promises to be in high favour this summer. Amongst the new materials for summer dresses is Indian long cloth, with gothic patterns, which have a wonderfully pleasing effect. A new material has also been displayed, called Abureerrage; but is one of those articles with which we are pleased, we know not why.
Balls have taken place again, a short time ago, at which were remarked some very pretty dresses. One was of white crape, and above the broad hem at the border, were placed ears of green corn, at separate distances; the stalks and beards of the corn were delicately worked in silk, while each grain was formed of a green bead, which being oblong, caused a beautiful effect.
Every lady of fashion now wears white muslin ruffles, beautifully embroidered; sometimes the ruffle is at the edge of the wristband of the long sleeve, and at others, the ruffle is placed above, as a trimming; a kind of weeper, also, is worn, about half a quarter of an ell in breadth.
HEAD-DRESSES. Berets and turbans are of coloured or white crape, spotted with gold or silver.
Under the article of ball-dresses we mentioned a dress ornamented with ears of corn in green beads: the classical coiffeure adopted with this costume, consisted of emerald ears of corn, intermingled with those of diamonds.
JEWELLERV. Bracelets are declining in favour , Chatelaines are expected to be worn all the summer. The most distinguished are in enamel, and they are made to correspond with the chain worn round the neck.
A ring of tortoise-shell is much in favour, with the following motto: “Tant qu’il durera. These rings are called a Caprice.
MISCELLANEOUS. Half-boots are universally worn. They are of gros de Naples, of every colour. The stockings most in favour are of Scotch thread. The shoes are all square-toed, without bows, and sometimes without sandal-strings.
The new parasols are all fringed.
The Boa-tippets seem to be in great danger: it is in vain that Golconda and Brazil have furnished these powerful talismans; in vain Flanders and India, Lyons and England have offered their most beautiful tissues, diamonds, scarfs, blonds and lace; all is now eclipsed, all are obscured under the overwhelming windings of the over-ruling reptile. Sinking under the most painful efforts, fatigued by the long reign of the boas that the approach of summer commands us to annihilate, the genius of fashion has itself furnished the arms which will destroy this too lasting a predilection, in the Ibis now so much the rage.
There are no longer seen shoes fastened to the gaiters. The most fashionable ladies wear half-boots, all of the same material; the shoe-part is marked out by a silk cordon.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to July 1829

Back to May 1829

Newest London and Parisian Fashions for May 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

Plate the First

” Naples of luxury the native seat,”

Sang the poet, and well, in that single line, did he paint the attractions of that gay and splendid place, to which the voluptuary, after having long worn the imperial purple, hastened in search of new, and yet unheard of pleasures. The latter may be found to any unvitiated mind and taste in the contemplation of an unclouded sky, enchanting prospects, its fine hay of picturesque renown, and its streets replete with entertainment, and groups of happy-looking, laughing predestrians, enjoying the exhibition constantly displayed of that king of puppet shows, diverting Punch, one of the principal delights of the merry Neapolitans.
The females are charming; and though their costume is gay, and biguarree, it is infinitely becoming; we have before presented our readers with the general dress adopted by the females of Naples, yet we have now the pleasure of giving to their inspection, one more elegant and varied, worn at the last Carnival, and from which a drawing in our possession was taken on the spot.
It consists of a petticoat, corset-corsage, and bracers of bright geranium satin: the petticoat is bordered by four rows of gold lace; the same trimming surrounds the tucker part of the corsage, under which is a chemise of the finest lawn, drawn decorously over the bust, till just below the throat. A row of gold lace down each side the front of the bust forms a stomacher, and the back is ornamented in the same manner, and laces on each side by geranium silk cordon. The braces are simply of satin of the same colour, and fasten by three rings to the body, on the gold lace which surronnds it, as they meet that which forms the stomacher. A short skirt of yellow satin, which fastens behind, and is there left open, is surrounded by a border of etherial blue, on which are embroidered in white silk, some Greek figures and crosses, and this border is finished with broad gold lace. The sleeves are also of yellow satin, with a cuff at the wrist, with one point, and the cuff edged with gold lace. A narrow ruffle of blond surrounds the wrist, next the hand, and blue ribbon with a rossette on the outside of the shoulder, in front. A belt of blue satin, ornamented by gold chain-work, encircles the waist; and an apron of white crape, painted or embroidered in an antique pattern of Etruscan brown, completes the lower part of the dress. The hair is arranged in very full curls, and over it is a Portici veil of celestial blue crape, richly, but lightly edged, and fringed with gold; a very long Glauvina-pin of gold supports that part of this veil, which is usually stiffened, so as to shade the eyes, partially, from too great a glare of light. The ear-pendants are en girandoles, and consist of pearls and rubies , and the necklace is formed of three rows of rubies, strung a l’antique; a large ruby brooch, set round with pearls, is placed in the centre of the chemise, in front of the bust. The shoes are of yellow satin with large blue rosettes, and are fastened up on each side of the leg, by yellow strings.


A dress of white gros de Naples bordered by five rows of satin ornaments a la Vandyck, the points reversed: over these hangs a light drapery of tulle, in divisions, and between each division a full blown lotos, in white satin. The corsage is made slightly, a la Roxalane, and is encircled by a pointed zone. A double falling tucker of blond, of the most exquisite workmanship, surrounds the bust, and in the centre is a bow of white satin ribbon; the sleeves are also adorned at the shoulders by a similar bow, and these sleeves are short and very full. A beret of pink crape is profusely ornamented beneath the brim, with pink satin foliage, and white and pink bows of gauze ribbons, two strings of which, in pink, float over the left shoulder: the ornaments on the beret consist of double pink larkspur, and branches of lilac, with a very small portion of green foliage. This dress is charmingly adapted for the spring.

Plate the Second

A dress of Indian taffety, of a pomegranate-red, with a bouillone trimming of the same, covering the hem next the shoe. A very broad flounce of white blond slightly fastened constitutes the border, over which are chain-links, formed of white satin rouleaux. The body made quite plain to fit the shape, and the waist encircled by a sash, the same colour as the dress, of broad ribbon, with two ends depending from a small rosette on the left side, in front; these ends descend only as low as the top of the flounce. The sleeves are short and full, and the fulness confined in the middle in the same manner, as the sleeves a la Marie; they terminate next the elbow by a frill of broad blond; and the tucker part of the bust is surrounded by a double frill of blond, set on full, and more separate from each other than the falling tuckers: this ornament has a small rosette of pomegranate-red in the centre. A white satin dress hat, placed very much on one side constitutes the head-dress. Under the elevated side of the brim are placed three small white Marabout feathers; a beautiful plumage of which, with white gauze ribbons, ornament the crown; and very long strings of the same ribbon, which has a rich brocaded satin stripe at each edge, float over the shoulders. Bracelets arc worn over the gloves, formed of cameos, or separate medallions of differently coloured stones.


A dress of fine India muslin, with a very deep flounce in festoons, elegantly embroidered, and the scallops edged by a double quilling of narrow lace. Over the flounce is worked on the dress, in superb pattern in embroidery. The body is en gerbe, with a full ruche of thread tulle round the upper part of the bust. The sleeves a la Mameluke, with a broad cuff, headed by a ruche, the same as the tucker, and a similar ornament next the hand; between these ruches, there is a bracelet on the left wrist formed of two rows of gold beads; on the right, a broad gold bracelet, on which are medallions in turquoise stones. The hat is of satin, the colour of the summer rose, with bows of the same, and a few black espoit feathers; this hat ties under the chin, with ribbon the same colour as the hat, figured in delicate outlines of black. A necklace of rubies, set round with pearls a l’antique, encircles the neck just below the throat.


A dress of plain jaconet muslin, with a very broad hem at the border, finished at the head in Vandyke points: these are terminated by a double ruche of narrow thread tulle, over a slight embroidery of green foliage. The corsage is made slightly en gerbe, partially low, with a full double falling tucker of narrow lace, of a neat pattern; the waist is encircled by a cambric belt, embroidered with green, to correspond with the foliage on the skirt. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, finished at the wrists and ornamented in the same manner, as those of the engraving described above, except, that instead of the bracelets, is sometimes introduced between the ruches, embroidery, in green. The bonnet is of white gros de Naples, trimmed with scrolls of the same, and dark green esprits: strings of white striped ribbon float loose.

Plate the Third

A dress of apricot-coloured crape, over a satin slip, trimmed at the border with broad ribbons of the same colour, forming Vandyke points; at each of the upper points is a rosette of the same ribbon ; and the ornament is headed by a rouleau of satin, the colour of the dress. The body is a la Sevigne; and in the centre of the bouffant, drapery across the upper part of the bust is a splendid brooch, en girandole, of turquoise-stones. The sleeves arc short, fluted, and very full, with a frill of blond over each shoulder. The hair is arranged a la Naide, and on the summit is a very large blue convolvulus with buds and green foliage: on the left side is a glauvina pin, with a superb head, ornamented with jewels. The ear-rings are of turquoise-stones.


A dress of violet-coloured satin with a very broad horn round the border of the skirt, headed by passementerie, in a twisted cord, or ornament. The body made quite plain to fit the shape, and the waist encircled by a belt of the same colour as the dress, with a brooch in front, of a lozenge form, consisting of an antique head in alto-relievo, set in finely wrought fillagree gold. The sleeves are in the jigot form, and are slashed a l’Espagnole, on the outside of the arm, the slashes filled in by white crepe aerophane; the sleeves are confined at the wrists by broad bracelets of green and gold enamel, with clasps in brooches, corresponding with the ornament in front of the belt. The head-dress consists of a hat of coloured satin, under the brim of which, lying on the hair, is a rosette of white gauze ribbon on each side, which are divided by an entwined bandeau of the same ribbon placed across, just above the forehead: the hat, which is crowned by a beautiful white plumage, is placed very backward. The jewellery worn with this dress, are fine Oriental pearls, in ear-pendants, and elegant drop-necklace and cross; those pearls which form the festoon over the bust are smaller than those which compose the single row that encircles the neck. Where the festoon is caught up, is a brooch; the alto-relievo head answers to that on the belt, except that this is round instead of being in a lozenge shape.


A dress of etherial-blue crape, with a broad hem at the border; at the head of which are two rows of ornaments, resembling irregular chevrons, united, but lying obliquely across the skirt; these are of satin, about two shades darker than the dress ; the largest of them fall downwards, the upper ones, which are smaller, are in a contrary direction; they are finished on one side by very narrow white blond. The body is a la Circassienne, and a belt of blue satin, embroidered with gold, confines the waist. The sleeves are short and full, and are surmounted at the top by a frill of white blond. The hair is arranged in full curls on each side of the face, and over the right side, from the summit, are two loops of hair, forming a bow, which is brought rather forward, but not so as to derange the curls in front. On the summit of the head is a broad plat, en Corbeille, from whence issue light and rather long curls; through these is placed an arrow of gold. Two rows of beads, formed of Egyptian pebbles, obliquely cross the forehead. The ear-rings are of gold.


FIG. 1. – Back view of a head-dress in hair, the same in style as that above described, with the additional ornaments of a full-blown rose, a butterfly, and a gold arrow.
FIG. 2. – Back view of a dress hat, of celestial-blue satin; the crown very low, and fluted en melon, slightly ornamented with white gauze ribbon, and a beautiful plume of white feathers.
FIG. 3. – Back view of a coiffeure in hair, arranged a la Naide. The summit crowned with a large full-blown yellow rose, buds, and green foliage.

Plate the Fourth

A tunic pelisse of fine white merino, beautifully embroidered in a greek pattern round the tunic with bouquets of flowers, at each corner. The body made high, a la Circassienne, and the sleeves en jigot. A pelerine of crape falls over the shoulders, and is embroidered round with two rows of the same greek pattern, which surrounds the tunic. The hat is of primrose gros de Naples, ornamented with double lilac-coloured garden poppies.


Fig. 1. – A Neapolitan cap a la fiancee, of rich white blond, tastefully, but very lightly ornamented with flowers and ribbon, under the border.
FIG. 2. – Dress hat of white crape, with a bow of gauze ribbon, at the edge of the brim, on the right side. The crown elegantly ornamented with blond.
FIG. 3. – A bonnet for the promenade of white gros de Naples, trimmed and bound with pea-green ribbon.
FIG. 4. – A back View of a similar bonnet in lavender gros de Naples, trimmed with bows of the same material.
FIG. 5. A turban of blue crape, with saffron coloured ornaments of square foliage, cut in ribbons.
FIG. 6. – Back view of the same kind of turban, in pink crape, with spring green ornaments.
FIG. 7. – Back and front view of a court head-dress, formed of rich blond lappets, crossing the fore part of the hair: the tresses on the summit highly elevated, in plats and bows, and crowned with flowers formed of differently coloured valuable jewels.


No longer, now, does the style of fashion remain suspended. Imagination, at length, ventures to decide on the choice of whatever may best please the fancy, amidst the numerous varieties now displayed, wherein the most charming and original feature presents itself to the eye of taste, in every versatile form; and our manufactures are so unrivalled, that we need not the aid of any foreign production in the adornment of our lovely countrywomen.
In regard to the elegancies of costume in the splendid courts of civilized Europe, and what may be gleaned from researches into antiquity, a successful emprunt may, occasionally, be resorted to; in this respect we cannot forbear calling, the attention of our most kind patronesses to the judicious alterations introduced by MRS. BELL, who has made, without destroying the original feature, those changes which have been productive of the most happy effect, and gained her the applause she so justly merits.
The bonnets for Spring are in great variety; one for the promenade is of fawn-coloured gros-de-Naples, edged at the border with rock -geranium-coloured beading; (this beading is now so extremely fashionable that scarce a bonnet or dress is finished without it:) the bonnet has an ornament round the crown, en fers de Cheval, of the same colour and material as the hat, lined with geranium sarcenet, in the hollows of which are placed puffs of ribbon the same colour as the bonnet, with a broad satin stripe of Navarin-blue at the edge, on which are clouds of geranium and white; the strings of the same ribbon are in a loop. A bonnet of white satin is trimmed with velvet ribbon, and bound with it at the edge, of a deep claret-colour, with an edge of bright amber, spotted with claret-colour. Strings, which are in a loop, are also of velvet, but with the colours reversed; the ground being of amber, and the edges claret, with yellow spots; the bows beneath the brim are the same as the strings. A superb carriage-bonnet, of a truly elegant shape, is of bird-of-Paradise satin, edged at the brim, about half an inch from the extremity, with black beading. Gauze ribbon, the same colour as the bonnet, with rich black satin stripes, ornaments the crown, and three beautiful weeping-willow feathers, the same tint as the bonnet, droop over the right side. A lady in slight mourning, has bespoke a very elegant bonnet of white gros-de-Naples, trimmed with black satin and black blond; scrolls of black satin, and other fanciful ornaments surround the crown, and black aigrette feathers. A figured white satin bonnet for the carriage, is trimmed with white satin ribbon richly striped ; it is ornamented with weeping-willow feathers of white and marsh-mallow blossom. A Canary -yellow satin bonnet is trimmed with yellow ribbons striped with black, in exactly the same style as the white figured satin bonnet above described, but is without plumage. A bonnet of etherial-blue satin is bound, lined, and trimmed with bird-of-Paradise ribbon, which has clouds at the border of green, red, and yellow: a broad blond, quilled in flutings, is placed beneath the brim, and ribbon in rosettes; the crown is adorned with esprit feathers in heath-foliage, white, green, and yellow. A white bonnet of gros-de-Naples, is figured all over in clouds of various colours, and bound with a variegated rouleaux of green and blue foliage the same colour as the bonnet, edged with blond, ornaments the crown, with white Narcissuses, and their green foliage, formed of feathers. A white carriage-bonnet of gros-de-Naples, has a beautiful border, worked in flat embroidery of red currants and their green foliage; the base of the crown is finished round in the same manner, and the summit in three very narrow rouleaux of currant-red satin, flowers of which bright tint ornament the hat, and from the centre of each flower, which is of the double Muscavia form, issue white esprit feathers. The gauze ribbon, employed in the decoration of this bonnet, arc beautifully diversified in satin stripes of lively and bright colours; the strings float loose. An embroidered edge to a marshmallow-blossom coloured bonnet, is very charming; it is a delicate wreath, the flowers white, representing those of the lilies of the valley, but the green leaves are smaller. A tropic bird’s plume is fixed in front, and waves archwise over each side; it is green, with a spray of heath in the centre. The ribbons are of Spring-green gauze, with satin stripes, the same colour as the bonnet, at one edge, and white on the other.
Among the head-dresses is a blond cap of fine tulle and blond, which has much style and fashion about it, but great taste is requisite in the putting it on, which should be on one side, discovering much of the hair, well arranged, on the other. It has a broad border, turned entirely back; sprigs of double violets and jonquils lie on the right side of the hair, and higher, on the left side, is placed a bouquet of the same flowers, with white snow-drops and crocusses grouped among them; Canary-yellow gauze ribbons, striped with black, are scattered slightly, in bows, over the summit. An Ottoman-turban, for full-dress evening parties, is a splendid coiffeure; half of the folds in front are of white satin, the other half of gold gauze. In the centre, in front, is the Sultana’s aigrette plume of yellow and white Herons’ feathers, intermingled with green and scarlet, from the tail of some rare foreign bird. A pink gauze turban is much admired for evening-dress ; it has a very beautiful plumage of ostrich feathers fixed in front, the same colour as the turban, the tips reclining to the left side, where they droop gracefully, but not lower than to the ear. The pelisses remain exactly in the style which prevailed last month; and the newest article, for out-door covering, is a pelerine mantelet, of fine India muslin, to be worn over a high dress, when the weather is sufficiently mild ; these chaste and elegant appendages are expected to be much in request the ensuing summer, either for the carriage or the promenade. They are trimmed all round with a frill of the same muslin as the mantelet, delicately embroidered all round in a small pattern, worked in feather-stitch; a row of a similar kind is also seen at the head of the trimming, worked on the mantelet itself.
The most admired colours are blue, of various shades, spring-green, jonquil, Canary-yellow, bird-of-Paradise, marshmallow-blossom, pink, fawn, and currant-red.


HATS AND BONNETS. Crape hats have already made their appearance ; they are of various colours, and are trimmed with blond. Some are ornamented with white plumage.
Bonnets of steam-coloured satin, are lined with blue, and trimmed with blue ribbon.
Carriage bonnets are of Russia-satin, and the hats of crape, ornamented with a branch of lilac, generally white, on a salmon-coloured crape hat. On bonnets of striped gros de Naples, which are striped like ginghams, a bunch of Parma-violets is often placed. On hats of white crape, is generally seen a branch of the peach-tree, or almond-tree in blossom.
A diminution in the size of the hats and bonnets, is expected to take place this summer. The crowns are round; those of the leghorn hats are, however, made different, and their brims are very large. Bonnets of straw, interwoven with ribbon, are displayed in the Magazins de Modes. A white chip hat has appeared, with a wreath of roses, without foliage, and an aigrette of holly.
Sarcenet, with a narrow corded stripe, is a favourite material for bonnets; round the crown is a row of ribbon disposed in ornaments like the point of a lance, and these points form a palisade: the points come beyond the crown, one or two inches.
Apricot-coloured hats and bonnets are very fashionable.

Indian-green is a fashionable colour in the trimming of hats; it is of a peculiarly bright tint, and is much used in ornamenting hats of chamois colour. Rose-coloured hats are much admired in the public walks, as are those of white watered gros de Naples, and of white crape, ornamented both beneath and above the brim, with blue gauze ribbons, with satin stripes; but the newest hats are of salmon-colour.
There is much silk used in the fabrication of the bonnets. They are plaited in large flutings, and have sometimes a rosette or a button, to fasten down these plaits to the middle of the crown, which is formed like a caul. Very often they are without being fastened, but are brought together on one side, from whence they depend. Some rose-coloured bonnets are entirely composed of gauze ribbons, with satin stripes, sown together at the edges. The bonnets of figured gros de Naples are checquered, and the chequers so large, and of such glaring colours, that a bonnet appears of three colours: the border, for example, yellow, the middle, lilac, and the remainder rose-colour. A striped ribbon, correspondent with these, trims the crown.

OUT-DOOR-COSTUME. – Several satin pelisses have the backs of the corsages made quite square; the skirt is set in, in very full plaits; the sleeves very wide, and the cuff coming very low over the hand.
In open carriages, cloaks are yet found indispensible; the newest are striped, and have a remarkably broad pelerine cape.
Pelisses are much in favour, some are of a wrapping kind; others are made to fit tight to the shape, and have the seams of the sleeves on the inside of the arm.

DRESSES. – Passementerie is expected to be much used in the trimming of dresses this summer, either in cordon, or in fringes, gowns so finished having already appeared.
The width of the sleeves is really terrific; there is about the same quantity of stuff made use of as it takes to make the rest of the dress. Dresses of white Merino prevail much at the promenades, they are painted in a pattern of various colours. Gowns of gros de Naples are trimmed with one broad flounce of the same colour as the dress; a pelerine is generally worn with them, embroidered round in the same manner as the flounce.
Several dresses have been seen bordered by narrow rouleaux which reach as high as the knee. A dress of black crape appeared lately at a ball, with stripes of gold, and palm-leaves round the border.
A chemisette tucker, embroidered and edged with a narrow lace, has now taken place of the plaited blond tuckers. Some dresses of white crape have a border as high as the knee, of lilacs and pinks, worked in flat embroidery.
Egyptian-muslins are new, and admired articles for dresses: nothing can be conceived more original than their patterns, which transport the imagination to the banks of the Nile, and cause the dress of a pretty woman to be regarded as a relic snatched from the Temple of Memphis. The colouring of these muslins is excellent.
Chaly de Constantinople is a charming material, which is adapted to all seasons, and it is so soft that it never rumples. One of these Chaly dresses merits particular notice; the border was painted in nine large palm-leaves of various colours, which produced an admirable effect. This style is called Harlequin.

Spotted Silenia, and figured Irish poplins are also beautiful articles; next to which we may place the toile de Ceos, a very distinguished material, well suited to fancy costumes; for it has this advantage, it is never likely to become common.
Smyrra gauze, figured and printed, embroidered Indian taffety, toile d’Ispahan, are all excellent articles for dresses. Scotch lawn, on which is painted or embroidered all kind of patterns, and lawns striped in divers colours, will be much worn by our fashionables this Spring. We must also reckon as novelties, mummy gauze, all of one colour, but striped: Syrian-gauze, with very narrow stripes.
Dresses of figured Merino, or of green Norwich-crape, are frequently seen in the Bois de Boulogne, in open carriages. A noble Marchioness was lately seen there in a dress of blue velvet; and another lady wore a dress of Burgundy-colour, with a very full body. The equestrian ladies have their habits made in that smart and becoming style, which discovers the skirt delicately plaited, and buttoning down the front like those of the gentlemen. The habit is either of celestial-blue cloth, or of laurel-green.
At a benefit performed for Madame MALIBRAN, several dresses were seen, the short sleeves of which were covered with white blond, slightly puckered at the top, and very wide ; at the wrist they formed an oreille d’elephant.
Most of the new dresses are made with a stomacher, and with plain flat backs. The plaits of the skirts are very full on each hip, which makes the waists of the stoutest females appear slender.
At present, on all the dresses made of spring materials, a pelerine is added the same colour as the gown; this is surrounded by a very broad border, or by a fringe. Some of these have pointed ends in front, en Canezou.
Ruffles are again in fashion at the cuffs; they are often plaited in the middle, and have edging on each side.
In some of the Magasins de Modes, and among several of the Marchands des Nouveautes, there is a new material of silk and stuff, which is of a colour between lavender-grey, and lilac; it is named parfait amour.
Among several other novelties is a material named gros de Naples Jardiniere, which from the brightness and harmony of its colours, is well adapted to summer dress. Chaly gree, Indian Cachemere, and mossed muslin, the name of which is expressive of grace, are also charming articles. Gros de Naples in narrow stripes, of beautiful shades, and various tissues of the newest patterns, remarkable for their taste and elegance, attract the Parisian belles to the fashionable Magasins in which they are now displayed. A great quantity of chintzes, of every shade and pattern, are seen, with Indian taffeties worked in flat embroidery, and are charmingly adapted for summer wear; several are worked in bouquets at the border of the dress, others in wreaths above the hem. In deshabille, ruffs are worn round the neck, named a la Maintenon; these are a simple collar, surmounted by a ruche.
Gros de Naples dresses of Indian green, for evening parties, are watered.
It is no longer fashionable to wear any stiffening under the sleeves, a la Mameluke. It is the mode now for them to fall entirely from the shoulders. White sleeves, worn with coloured gowns in half dress, with a narrow waist-band, increase daily in favour.

HEAD-DRESSES. Ladies who go to balls, but who do not dance, wear as a head-dress the Cardinal’s hat, or turbans of gold or silver tissue.
A pretty cap a la fiancee Neapolitaine, has lately appeared.
Now, more than ever, are bandeaux in hair adopted by our fashionables; but whether such a lady wears on her head a cap, a hat, or a beret, when she is full dressed, she must have, on each side of her coiffeure, or behind, two appendages, which may give her the semblance of being dressed for court; only instead of parting them according to the etiquette of the lappets for the drawing-room, they must not be separated, but must fall over the back, or only over one shoulder.
Lately at a dramatic performance, a lady had a turban of Navarin blue crape, with hair-stripes of silver; it was ornamented with two birds of Paradise, arched over each other.
At the theatres, and at evening parties, the berets are very simple and elegant, and are of crape ornamented with two tufts of ribbons, cut in leaves. Toques a la Francis I., are much worn at concerts ; they are of crape, or of watered gros de Naples, and instead of a feather, they have round the crown a row of ribbon, folded en fers de lances, with a branch of lilac or jessamine, placed vertically.
At a late musical party, a very pretty woman was seen in a very elegant cap a la fiancee; it was of white blond, ornamented with puffs of gauze ribbon, with satin stripes, and was crowned with full-blown roses.
Young persons have their hair arranged in the Chinese fashion, and take great pains in forming the small ring-curls which are near the ears above each temple. To keep these in proper order they use gum-arabic, and sugar and water.
The hair to be very short at the nape of the neck is also another serious care ; and there it is formed in small cork-screw ringlets.
Small morning caps are less trimmed than they were last summer. They have a single border of lace, and are very slightly ornamented with ribbon. Caps for home dress are of very fine tulle; round the front is a broad border, festooned en cretes de coq; and two long lappets, festooned likewise, serve instead of ribbons to fasten them under the chin. In the composition of a blond cap there is now to be seen a band of white chip, which the fashionists turn round in a manner so as to form a horse-shoe over each temple; there are introduced two tufts of hair, with two light curls.


The first day of the promenade at Longchamp, the weather cleared up towards six o’clock, but then it was too late; on the morrow, however, at an early hour, the file of carriges was formed.
In a beautiful chariot was seen a hat of white crape, the crown of which was formed like a Maltese cross: the interstices of which were filled in by blond lined with rose-colour: roses were mingled with the bows of ribbon round the crown.
There were some hats entirely of blond; bands of white chip kept them in shape; these were ornamented with white feathers.
On some hats which were composed of ribbons, sewn together at the edges, with puckered brims, there was light plumage, wide enough to shew to advantage the differently coloured flowers painted on them.
Rouleaux of blue crape, entwined, and forming a kind of treillage work, in oval meshes, composed a bonnet which was ornamented with clematis. This bonnet was not lined but discovered the hair through the treillage.

Silk fringes, having a netted head of four rows of meshes, formed the trimming on several dresses, as high as the knee, and was also seen at the edge of the pelerines.
The petticoats of the riding dresses were of cloth, the colour of terre de Morea, and the jacket white jacanot muslin, with braiding on the seams.
Chip hats were remarked, ornamented with tulips or poppies on long stalks ; others by a broach of lilac, or one of oak.

JEWELLERY. – The buckles for ladies belts are of gold, ornamented with eight precious stones, set transparent; two malachites, two red cornelians, two white, and two topazes. These stones are all irradiated, as we often see brilliants. The malachites occupy one extremity of the buckle, and the six other stones ornament the sides.
The keys which the ladies now hang to their chatelaines are enamelled, and the rings have their coat of arms engraven on them.

MISCELLANEOUS. – At balls some ladies wear white silk stockings, brocaded over with Cachemere flowers.
Ladies of fashion wear feathers of the Cassowary, the plumage of this bird is of a beautiful black. In 1796, and 1797, Le Jardin des Plantes, at Paris, possessed a Cassaworay. This bird was as tall as an ostrich, and very voracious; they fed it with bread, potatoes, and carrots. The first Cassaworay ever seen in Europe was brought into Holland, in 1597.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to June 1829

Back to April 1829

Newest London and Parisian Fashions for April 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazine de Modes is replete with every fashionable article; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c., &c., AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

Plate the First

There are very few, we believe, who have not perused the novel of Ivanhoe, and who have not dwelt with delight, on the charming character there pourtrayed, of a most lovely and excellent female of Jewish race, the matchless “Rebecca.” She is again presented to the public eye, on the stage, in the popular piece of the “Maid of Judah;” and we now present her as an embellishment to the “WORLD OF FASHION,” in a fancy costume, as splendid as any heretofore worn by the most distinguished daughters of Sion, and particularly becoming as a dress for a fete, or a ball.
Over a petticoat of white Indian silk, embroidered with gold, at the border, is a robe, open in front of the skirt, of Velvet; the colour of the far famed Tyrian-purple. A deep, and very rich fringe of gold, finishes the border of this robe, which descends only low enough to discover the gold border on the white petticoat. Above this fringe is a row of palm-leaves embroidered in gold, green, and scarlet; and the robe is figured over, in a smaller pattern, embroidered in the same manner. The body fits the shape, and is striped downwards with gold; it discovers a chemisette-tucker of fine linen, worked with different colours, and finished by a narrow gold lace. The sleeves are long, and of white silk, studded over with small precious stones of various colours. From the purple velvet strap on the shoulder, descends a row of gold fringe over the top of the sleeve, en mancheron. Over the left shoulder is a sash of oriental gauze, of a saffron colour; this, crossing over the back, hangs carelessly over the right hip, and from thence, ties in a rosette on the left side, the ends finished by a broader, yet lighter kind of fringe than that on the robe. The turban is of white, and very slight Indian silk, and is ornamented in the same manner as the sleeves. It is looped up in front by an ornament of finely wrought gold, with a small rosette tuft at the summit, of Tyrian-purple feathers, from whence waves over the left side, a tail of the bird-of paradise. The hair curls beautifully over the back and shoulders; and a superb forehead-jewel, splendidly set in gold, which forms the most conspicuous part, is placed across the hair in front. The necklace is composed of the richest jewellery, in two rows, set a l’antique, with drop ornaments of wrought gold. The bracelets are entirely of gold; two are worn on the left wrist, and only one on the right. The small Jewish slippers are of Aurora, or saffron-colour, with gold rosettes


A dress of white crepe lisse over white satin, with a broad hem round the border, headed by oreilles de lievres, of white satin every ear edged, as they lie over each other, by a shaded rouleau of yellow and pomegranate, a rouleau of which seems to support these ornaments together, and terminates the heading of the hem. The corsage is a la Circassiene, and is confined by a girdle with a full rosette of white satin on the left side, from which descend three cordons of yellow and pomegranate, which spread out till they nearly attain the head of the border, where they are each terminated by a bonquet of flowers. The sleeves are short, and very full, and the fullness confined in the middle by a band of white satin. A small bow of white satin is fixed on the outside of the arm on the sleeve, next the shoulder, and a falling tucker of blond surrounds the bust. The hair is arranged in curls on each side of the face, and small bars on the summit of the head. An elegant ornament, in the eastern style, of white gauze, richly figured, is disposed, with much taste, across the tresses, and crowned with a superb bouquet of full blown Provence roses. The earrings and necklace are of large pearls; those which compose the latter, are set seperately, a l’antique. Very broad gold bracelets are worn over the gloves, fastened by a cluster of turquoise stones.


A dress of blush-coloured satin, bordered by two flounces; that next the feet, which is deeper than that above, is beautifully embroidered at the edges, in small branches of of delicate foliage in dark olive green floize silk, and the edge, which is in points, is finished by three rows of narrow beading of the same colour. The upper flounce, which is set on fuller, has no embroidery, but the points are edged in the same manner as that next the shoe. Above this is a row of branches, worked in the same manner, and in the same colour as those above described; the seams also of the dress have similiar embroidery down each side in front. The corsage is a la Roxalane; the sleeves short, and much puffed out, finished at the shoulders by points, edged with dark olive beading; in front of each a damask rose, with green foliage. The head-dress consists of a Spanish toque of blush coloured satin; three short white feathers, taking a spiral direction, grace the right side; on the left are seen playing, three still shorter; and below the left ear are two. The ear-rings and necklace are of various coloured gems, pointed and irradiated. Bracelets are worn over the gloves of light green and gold enamel, fastened by a ruby.

Plate the Second

A dress of white crape, bordered by a very broad hem, at the head of which is painted en Serpentine, double rows of foliage, consisting of branches of cypress, in light willow-green, yellow, and vermillion. The corsage of white satin, fitting very tight at the smaller part of the waist, and at the top of the bust, a la Roxelane. Down the front of the waist is an ornament of gold chain-work, and the body is finished in a point, at the base, with the same kind of trimming, serving as a girdle. A narrow, falling tucker, of two rows of blond, surrounds the bust. The sleeves short, very full, and ornamented in front of the arm with a branch of painted cypress leaves, to correspond with those on the skirt. A turban of white crape and blond graces the head; its folds confined by ornaments of myrtle-green and gold. On the left side is an esprit feather of the same colour, and, from the towering upward to the summit, is a bouquet formed of purple, double lark-spurs, white lark-spurs, thistles, and green corn. The ear-pendants and necklace are formed of rubies and diamonds. The bracelets, which are very broad, are of gold and turquoise stones.


A dress of soft satin, the very lightest shade of celestial-blue, trimmed round the border by two deep flounces, the upper one falling over the other; at the edge of each flounce is a narrow rouleau of olive-brown satin, surmounted by a row of yellow butterflies, beautifully embroidered, and over the upper flounce are two rows on the dress, of the same summer insect. This new dress, we are happy to see, is evidently shorter in the waist than has been worn of late; it is made quite plain, and confined round the waist by a simple belt of satin, without any point. Round the tucker part of the corsage is a collar, en Paladin, the same as the dress, edged round with narrow blond, headed by an olive brown rouleau; over this falls a frill of blond, of the most rich and splendid pattern. The sleeves are plain, short, and full. The hair is elegantly and fashionably arranged, and is crowned by a double, open coronet-wreath of flowers; the lower part of which obliquely crosses the forehead, while the upper part, which is most varied in colours, is placed at the base of the Apollo-knot. On the right side is a large bouquet, consisting of two large full blown Provence roses, and buds, with white double lark-spur, and blue lupins. The necklace, ear-pendants, and bracelets, are of opal; the latter very broad, with chain-work of gold next the wrist.


A dress of white crape, with a very broad hem at the border, over which is embroidered a rich Mogul pattern in green and gold. The points of this oriental pattern depend downwards, and to every fourth point hangs a small light chaplet of green and gold. The corsage is a la Roxelane, and is confined round the waist by a belt of green satin. The tucker part is surrounded by an ornament in chain-work, of small beads, to which are suspended drops en girandoles. The sleeves are short, and very full, surmounted each by a double frill of blond. The hair is dressed very wide on each side of the face, and in full clusters of curls The summit is wound round and round in stiff plats, till it is formed into a corbeille, in the centre of which is a mass of curls. Long branches of heath, with scarlet blossoms adorn each side of the head. A bandeau of white am gold enamel, with three pear-pearls in the centre, en girandole, crosses the upper part of the forehead.

Plate the Third

A dress of white Greek-velvet, painted en colonnes, of lowers, in various colours. A border, consisting of scrolls of the same material as the dress, so disposed, as to appear like large leaves pointing downwards; these are bound round with satin; one side of the edge in lilac, the other in yellow. Divided by a narrow rouleau of yellow satin, are smaller scrolls, standing erect, and forming a kind of head to the border; between each of these is a puff of white crape or satin. The body is made plain, and round the tucker part is a notched ornament, each notch bound round alternately with lilac or yellow; over this falls a triple tucker of blond, very full. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, immensely large, and very full; they are confined at the wrist by a broad gold bracelet, and next the hand is a narrow double ruffle of blond. The head-dress consists of a white gauze Greek turban, enlaced by lemon-coloured satin ribbon, and ornamented by two plumes of white feathers, representing the tails of the bird-of-paradise. The necklace is formed of two rows of pearls, and the ear-pendants are two pear-pearls.
N. B. – A back view of the above costume.


FIG. 1 and 2. – Turban-toque, (back and front view) of lama-gauze, and figured satin; the gauze pink and black, the satin part white, with painted figures of an eastern pattern, in deep Mogul-red and lemon-colour. White plumage, formed of feathers representing the tail of the bird-of-paradise, floats over the left side.
FIG. 3 and 4. – Back and front view of a dress hat, of white satin, ornamented under the left side of the brim, with a small plume of white ostrich feathers, and on the right side with a full rosette of blond; the crown splendidly adorned with white blond, and a full plume of white ostrich feathers.
FIG. 5 and 6. – Back and front view of a blond cap, for half dress, with a very broad border of a Vandyck pattern, turned back, and next the hair a beautiful and delicate wreath, composed of heath in blossom; much blond is displayed in the rest of the ornaments, with pink satin rouleaux.
FIG. 7. Coiffeure composed of puffs of ribbon; blue gauze and silver, mingled with puffs of pink satin.
FIG. 8. Back view of the same kind of head-dress, entirely in pink ribbon.

Plate the Fourth (figures numbered for convenience)

FIG. 1. – Oriental toque of Cachemire gauze, figured en sechal, and formed, in front, like an eastern diadem-turban; from whence it is wound round to the summit of the head, where the hair is arranged by braids a la Grecque, and much elevated.
FIG. 2. – Back view of the same kind of head-dress, in pink gauze.
FIG. 3. – Back and front view of the hair disposed in the Grecian style, and tastefully ornamented with full-blown roses, and pink and blue double-larkspurs.
FIG. 4. – Hair arranged a la Chinoise, and crowned on the summit by bouquets of roses and blue-bells. A bandeau, formed of one row of pearls, crosses the forehead, where the hair separates. Ear-pendants of pearls, en girandoles.
N.B. – A back view of the same coiffeure.
FIG. 5. – Head-dress in hair, a la Naide, with a bandeau of pearls across the forehead; the summit of the head is ornamented by plats of hair en corbeille, from whence ascend two loops of hair, forming a bow. Above these, on the right side, appears a coronet comb of gold, and the whole is crowned by blue larkspurs and monks’-hood.
N.B. – Back view of a similar head-dress, with full-blown Summer roses and green foliage.
FIG. 6. A blond cap, with a broad pointed border, turned back, and flowers on each temple, of an exotic kind, pink, with long green foliage. A few puffs of pink ribbon form the additional ornaments, strings of which float over the shoulders.
N.B. – Back view of the same cap, ornamented with steam-yellow gauze ribbon.
FIG. 7. – Moorish turban of ponceau and yellow crape. A back view represents the same kind of turban in Navarin-blue and lemon-colour.
FIG. 8. – Promenade bonnet of emerald-green, lined with white, and trimmed with the same coloured ribbon, with a few puffs of white satin ribbon intermingled.
FIG. 9. – Back view of a bonnet, for walking, of lavender gros de Naples, trimmed with the same. Both these bonnets tie under the chin with a mentonniere of blond.
FIG. 10. Back and front view of a cap of black blond, ornamented with pink gauze ribbon, with black satin stripes. The crown en treillage, formed of rouleaux of pink satin.

Original Plate the Fourth

Though the evening dress parties have not been many, and the balls, at present, but few, yet those which have taken place have been remarkably select and splendid: from such sources, and from the various elegancies which now continue in preparation, for such circles, according to increased and increasing orders at MRS. BELL’S tasteful Magazine de Modes, we are enabled to present our readers with a description of the following novelties in fashionable costume.
From the above-mentioned emporium of fashion, a carriage pelisse of the most elegant kind, has been just completed, to order, for a female of distinction: it is of a peculiarly rich Gros de Naples; the colour Navarin-blue; it is faced, and trimmed round the border by a broad ornament of black velvet, in Spanish points; between each of which is a rounded leaf, in velvet, edged by a narrow satin rouleau; the body is faced down the front in a correspondent manner. The sleeves are en jigot, with a broad gauntlet cuff of black velvet, pointed; and at the point three round leaves, forming a kind of tulip-ornament. Another favourite out-door dress, but more adapted for the promenade, is of Gros de Naples, and is made high; it is the colour of the marshmallow-blossom; it is bordered by a broad hem, headed by two stripes of black velvet, set at a distance from each other, about half an inch; these stripes are put on en serpentine; and from them issue on each side of the serpentine wave, branches of the leaves of Cypress; this foliage is of the same colour and material as the dress, and every leaf is edged round by black velvet. The body is a la Roxelane, the sleeves en jigot, with a pointed cuff, and next the hand is a narrow row of antique English points, edged with black velvet.
Amongst the dresses for the evening, those of velvet are not yet laid aside; we have seen one of much taste and elegance, finished down the front of the skirt in the Bavarian style; the robe, itself, is of black velvet of the softest texture, and hangs beautifully over the form. The apparent petticoat is of black satin crossed by straps formed of rouleaux of the same material, each ornamented in the centre as they point downwards, with a gold buckle: the front of the bust is en guimpe, and is finished in the same manner as the skirt. Over short sleeves of black velvet are those which are long, consisting of black Japanese gauze, with a very deep gauntlet-cuff, of black satin, and a row of gold buttons in bias, on the outside of the wrist. The poplin coloured silks, and coloured crape dresses for the ball and evening party have experienced no change, at present, worth recording; we generally give all the novelty in costume to our engravings, and when we have but little new to add in these our observations, we trust our indulgent readers will there find their expectations fulfilled of gaining every intelligence concerning the reigning costumes, in the “WORLD OF FASHION.”

The bonnets are still in an uncertain state, wavering continually between black velvet and satin, or white satin and coloured Gros de Naples; one carriage bonnet has, however, appeared, the form like those the French call hat-bonnets; having, in front, every appearance of a hat. This tasteful bonnet is of Egyptian plaid, pink and yellow ; it is trimmed with steam-yellow ribbon chequered with black, and ornamented with exotic flowers, which are yellow and scarlet, with green foliage formed of feathers.
A cap for receiving dinner parties at home, is an elegant novelty in the coiffeure department. It is of beautiful blond, the border excessively broad, and pointed at the edge: this border is turned back, with a full clustered wreath of small, and just-opening roses, both red and white, lying on the hair in front: the back of the caul is ornamented by a similar wreath, and bows of pink gauze ribbon, with satin stripes, complete the trimming. Another cap for home costume is of very fine Mechlin lace, and is ornamented with pink gauze, of which material there are long lappets. Rouleaux of satin draw up the handsome border en fers de Cheval; on each temple is a puff-rosette of pink gauze. A very pretty blond cap for half dress, has also much taste in its composition; it is made of fine tulle and narrow blond; there are bars of pink gauze striped ribbon over each temple, a white, double Narcissus with green folliage on the right side, with white jessamine, and its sombre-green leaves. We are happy to find the Opera head-dresses likely to become less annoying than when they consisted so much of large dress hats and capacious berets; charming turbans of oriental shape, and the most becoming size seem to be more in favour with the matronly beauty; these are often ornamented with a yellow plumage of a fancy kind, with very delicate flowers, in which is mingled a small portion of blue, which takes off from the monotony of the yellow plumage. Young ladies of rank are seen at the Opera and at evening full dress parties, with wreaths on their hair, formed of white crape roses, and jagged foliage of gold. Many ladies wear a full head-dress composed of coloured ostrich feathers.
The favourite colours are Navarin-blue, pink, marshmallow-blossom, steam-yellow and bright-rock-geranium.


HATS AND BONNETS. – Hats of black, green, or violet-coloured velvet, are yet very prevalent: very few are ornamented with feathers, but several are trimmed with blond, and puffs of velvet and ribbon.
Bonnets of coloured satin are also worn, lined with white and trimmed with white ribbon; the ribbons spotted with the same colour as the hat.
At the promenades, are seen many hats of rose-coloured satin trimmed with blond.
Instead of the usual round riding hat, many ladies wear with their riding-dresses, beaver bonnets tied close down, which fashion they call a l’Anglaise. Black veils with these bonnets, are universal.
Bonnets of gros de Naples, of English-green, have, at the edge, a ruche of black blond; very broad, to which is added a demi-veil of blond.
If there is any fashion which has survived the lapse of ages, it is that of wearing blonds; never were they in such favour as at the present day. At the promenade, be the hat or bonnet ever so simple, it is trimmed with the richest blond.
Several black velvet hats have appeared lately, trimmed with flat ostrich feathers. Under the brims are blue or rose-coloured ribbons, cut in leaves. The number of hats and bonnets in rose-coloured satin, with a demi-veil of blond at the edge, increases every day. Those of blue satin, lined with white, are much admired: they are ornamented with ribbon, and white blond. White willow feathers are seen on coloured velvet hats. There is a new kind of gros de Naples much in favour for hats and bonnets ; the ground is chamois-colour, with violet and green stripes, about three finger’s breadth distant from each other. The hats made of this silk, have narrow brims, and the sides are as wide as the front: the upper part of the crown is fluted. Green and violet feathers form the favourite ornaments on these hats. The trimming on the bonnets consist of long puffs of ribbon green and violet placed over the crown, and beneath the brim. A hat of lemon-coloured crape, or of English blue, is very fashionable; at the base of the crown is affixed, by a rosette of gauze ribbon, a branch of lilacs, or rather three branches fastened together. The direction of this ornament is vertical; a broad blond surrounds the edge of the brim. Some hats of lilac gros de Naples, have the crowns trimmed with eight or ten large puffs of gauze ribbon of English-green, with satin stripes. There are often seen on hats of white crape, trimmed with white gauze ribbon, two bunches of rose-coloured perriwinkles, one on the summit of the crown, towards the right, the other on the same side, at the edge of the brim.
Carriage-hats are what are called a l’Francois I. The brims very large, and turned up in front, where is placed a very long feather, which lies on the hair.

OUT-DOOR COSTUME. – Pelisses of steam-yellow satin, or rose-colour, are most fashionable.
Ermine tippets now take the place of the Boas, on the shoulders of women of fashion.
Muffs are still worn, and high dresses trimmed with marten or ermine.
Cloaks of satin, and pelerines of velvet, are now most admired when trimmed with blond.
Satin pelisses fasten down the front of the skirt, by gold buttons: they are ornamented above the broad hem at the border, by passementerie.

DRESSES. – A rich dress of blue gauze, is much admired in grande parure. Above the broad hem, at the border, is a full ornament of beading. A bunch of marabout feathers is fastened on one side of the dress, by a butterfly, formed of coloured jewels. Some dresses of rose-crape are trimmed with a ruche below the hem, next the feet, and which is carried up in a point towards one side of the skirt. On the white crape dresses, the bouquets are painted on the hem, instead of being above it. All the short sleeves are en berets; the plaits either very large, or remarkably small. Above the blond which surrounds the bust of ball dresses, there is sometimes a narrow ruche. Above the hem of a crape dress, the colour, bird-of-paradise, was lately seen five rows of satin points, very close to each other, and forming a most elegant trimming.
Blond canezous are often worn with silk dresses, and those of tulle, with muslin gowns, are fastened in front by half a dozen buttons in gold or jewels, like those worn by gentlemen. One of these canazous in blond, destined to be worn with a dress of blue velvet, formed brandenburghs by its embroidery, which were surrounded by narrow gold braiding, which were joined in front by a double gold tassel, passed through a button-hole.
At dress parties, are seen rose-coloured, or steam-yellow satin dresses, which are trimmed round the tucker part of the corsage, with several rows of pearls, and a friar’s belt of pearls incircles the waist. A dress of cherry-coloured velvet, has, above the hem, a broad silver fringe, a sash embroidered with silver, and wide sleeves of tulle, embroidered in silver. Another dress is of Ispahan-velvet, painted in columns of flowers, in different colours. The gowns are made very low at the shoulders and back, and the greater part have drapery on the corsage. Some dresses of black velvet have the sleeves slashed a l’Espagnole, and the slashes filled in by puckerings of tulle. A dress of Russia-satin, of a pearl-grey, has been much admired, with long sleeves; and, at the upper part of the arm, eight or ten regular plaits, very close together, which represented the wings of an English corps of light infantry.
There are some short sleeves that impart the idea of those pavillions formed of great pipes, or shanks of trees, which are used at the portals of a palace to extinguish the flambeaux that are carried before the king and the princes.
Spotted and stamped merinos, in colours, are yet in favour for deshabille; all these kind of dresses have one deep flounce, en rideau, and a pelerine surrounded by a broad trimming, is worn with them. For half dress, a merino should be embroidered above the hem, or if trimmed with a flounce, that should be embroidered at the edge.

HEAD-DRESSES. – Marabouts, mingled with six or eight butterflies in precious stones, form a favourite head-dress: the butterflies are of all shades and sizes. Never were the feathers nor the esprits disposed in the hair with so much taste as in this year. The hair is platted or twisted in cordons, separated at intervals by gold and precious stone ornaments.
Caps of blond, which have cauls, have in front, no other trimming than a few puffs of ribbons, with cut ends. Others of pink tulle, have bands of the same, festooned in long pointed plaits, which form a large tuft on one side, and terminate on the other by a ruche, which surrounds the whole of the cap, behind.
At the Opera, are seen several berets of black velvet, in the Spanish style; they are ornamented with ponceau, or white feathers; some are turned up on one side by loops of gold or pearls, and these very much resemble the small hats worn in the reign of Francis I.
Head dresses in hair are numerous. Those are particularly distinguished where the bows of hair behind, unite with those in front, so that they form two bandeaux on each side of the forehead. The summit of the head is ornamented with an arrow which crosses the bows, or one single large full blown rose, surrounded by an auriole of small flowers.
The blond dress caps are so disposed as to display the tufts of hair, through those ornaments which serve in lieu of a caul.
Several ladies wear a broad gothic ornament in front of their hair, composed of differently coloured stones, surmounted by a bird-of-paradise, or a heron’s plume.
A wreath of small roses, placed obliquely over the left ear, is a favourite ornament on the hair of many ladies.
A cardinal’s hat in black velvet, trimmed with gold lace and tufts, which hang two and two, from right to left, are fastened by two gold runners; these are terminated by tassels, descending as low as the shoulders. To the same hat is appended two lappets of gaze-lisse, on each side. A toque of cherry-coloured velvet, bordered by a very broad blond, is ornamented with narrow tresses of gold, and half covered by a diadem of flowers with long stalks.
The head-dresses form a perfect museum of jewellery ornaments of every kind; white feathers mingled with diamond ears of corn is a very favourite coiffeure. Almost all the ball head-dresses consist of three butterflies placed on very long stalks, which appear hovering over the bows of hair on the summit of the head. Several bouquets, or a wreath of foliage with gold flowers, have a very pretty effect on the hair at candle-light. Turbans of gold and silver gauze are ornamented with a bird-of-paradise; and ladies, eminent for their taste in dress, wear the Moabitish turban, of white tissue-gauze, surrounded by gold ornaments, or those of ponceau.
Ladies of fashion continue to wear their hair a la Grecque; the outre appearance of which is devoid of all grace, but it is the reigning mode. Gauze, entwined amongst the hair, is the most distinguishing ornament. Black velvet berets, ornamented with white flowers and white feathers, are in high favour.

JEWELLERY. Butterflies, formed of coloured stones, are so fashionable this winter, that we give as a proof a description of a present lately made to one of the most pretty women of fashion in Paris. It was a magnificent casket of jewels, containing an assortment of twelve butterflies, some of which had their wings formed of small diamonds, and the body in enamel; others were of rubies, emeralds, and various other stones. There was one in topazes, spotted with black. All the gold pins, which served to fasten the butterflies, were ranged in symmetrical order in the casket.
Golden arrows, and those of pearls and of diamonds, are much in favour as ornaments on the hair.
Some of the Chatelaines are now ornamented with seals. Narrow bracelets, of wrought gold, are used to keep the gloves tight above the wrists.
Broad bracelets, of tortoise-shell, are a novelty in jewellery; these are ornamented with divisions of gold in open work. In all the trinket-boxes now, in order to have the head dressed it a la Psyche, is a large butterfly, either in gold enamel, or in jewellery of great or small value. Those who have not viewed closely the setting of this bijou, cannot form an idea of the manner in which the butterfly is set, and, in particular, of the ingenious process, by aid of which it vibrates constantly over the jewels, or the artificial flowers.
1st, A double stalk, or pin with two branches forked, serves to fix the butterfly in the hair in front of the bows, the comb, or the plats, &c.
2d, A spring serves to bring the insect more or less forward, or to change the direction to higher or lower. This little hinge is of the same kind as those which in diamond wheatsheaves, or in aigrettes, allow any one to bend down, or to raise the different ears of the sheaf or the aigrette.
3rd, The body of the butterfly is directly fixed on a spiral stalk ; but sometimes this spiral direction is horizontal, like as in the motion of a watch we find the pendulum laid flat. Sometimes the spiral is vertical, and of the form of those spirals which support the heads or balls of the Glanirna pins.
There are butterflies a la Psyche, of the most exquisite workmanship, of very high price.
There are, also, seen at the jewellers, trinket-boxes, which contain a beautiful flower, formed of differently-coloured gems, ornamented with branches of every kind of gold, wrought in the most delicate manner. These flowers are placed on a long pin, and are put in the hair over the front. This is a very fashionable ornament. There are roses in diamonds, the petals of which are formed of small rubies, the leaves by emeralds, and the stalks of gold.
Another jewellery ornament is a comb ornamented with a triple row of diamonds, two diamond butterflies, and single diamonds set in a bandeau, which go twice round the hair.
Golden arrows and cameos are, also, favourite head-ornaments.
The Sevigne brooches, worn in the centre of the drapery across the bust, are formed of every kind of jewellery. Combs with a double gallery, each enriched with diamonds, and bouquets of corn, in which there are twenty ears, have been seen on the head of a noble duchess. Several ladies, in full-dress, wear diamond fillets, placed on the hair with a point in front, a la Marie Stuart.

MISCELLANEOUS. To ornament a ball dress, it is of no use to call in the assistance of the jeweller; the most antique and rare bijoux are now in request, and they borrow from those who are in possession of a cabinet of curiosities, decorating themselves with those necklaces and bracelets which have been found on mummies and on skeletons.
We have written before on the whimsical fashion of silk stockings, either black or white, and the half-boots of glaring colours. But at masqued balls it is a different affair. There were seen during the last carnival, on white silk stockings, a harlequin, a punchinello, and a devil climbing up a pine-tree or a yew. In full dress, however, it is now fashionable for a lady to have her silk stockings embroidered with gold, in lozenges, which takes up all the stocking on the instep, and ascends as high as where a half-boot generally terminates. The two clocks are richly ornamented.
White gloves, both long and short, have a slight embroidery, in gold, on the back of the hand.
The half-boots worn by the French elegantes have heels about half an inch in height.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to May 1829

Back to March 1829

Newest London and Parisian Fashions for March 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

Plate the First

In this truly majestic costume, out of the great variety of habits possessed by the Virgin Queen, did this extraordinary and highly-gifted female, receive her foreign guests of distinction, and the ambassadors from different courts; it was in such a guise, perhaps, that she, at once, trifled with, feigned to accept, and, at length, jilted the youthful Anjou, when past the age of forty herself, even when the pledge of exchanged rings were given, and the prince regarded her as his betrothed wife. In a dress somewhat similar to this, the beautiful lady of our present ambassador to France, appeared very lately at a splendid fancy ball given by her Royal Highness MADAME.
Over a petticoat of white satin, richly trimmed, en falbalas, with fine point lace, is a velvet robe of royal purple, embroidered with gold, and faced and bordered with ermine; this robe had drapery sleeves of the same, very much like those, newly designated by the name of Spanish draperies; these were lined with satin of a bright yellow, and edged round with ermine. The sleeves were precisely en jigot, and were of white satin, over which was a network in diamonds, formed of narrow white satin ribbon; and within each diamond was a single precious stone ; these were an emerald, a topaz, and a ruby: the bust was cruelly confined by very tight and stiff stays, which concealed and destroyed all its contour. Foreign writers have spoken concerning this queen going “bare-necked;” but what little Elizabeth discovered of her neck, would not be indecorous at any age. The stomacher to the body of her velvet robe was superb; it was shaped out by a row of very large pearls, and was of white satin, with net-work to correspond with that of the sleeves ; but the stomacher net-work was of pearls; and in the centre of each diamond was a small rosace, composed of the same valuable materials, or sometimes of diamonds. Her regal head-dress was a cap of purple velvet, surmounted by a sovereign’s crown, in outline, of large oriental pearls, with the cross of gold. The base of the crown surrounded by point lace, on which was a row of sapphires. The border of the cap was of that kind which obtained the appellation of Mary Stuart’s; but it might as well have been styled Mary Tudor’s, for that sister of Elizabeth wore this kind of cap, we believe, before the unfortunate Queen of Scots was born. The border of the cap was set with jewels. The ruff of Elizabeth’s own invention, and which still bears her name, was of rich point lace, and was bordered by gold and jewels; these kind of ruffs were not only very stiffly starched, but were set out with wires. A necklace of very large pearls, in two rows, with a diamond cross, completed the dress.
Elizabeth was never known to bestow any dress on her attendants; when she died, upwards of a thousand different kinds of gowns, and costumes of every nation, filled the wardrobe.


A tunique satin pelisse of sage-leaf-green, with a very broad Witzchoura border of ermine, discovering a small portion, next the shoe, of the skirt underneath; down each side in front of the pelisse, which is left slightly open, are two rows of ermine. The corsage is made plain, and concealed by a fichu-pelerine, the same as the pelisse, edged round with ermine . The sleeves en jigot, and very wide; confined at the wrist by a broad cuff of ermine. A belt, of a novel kind, is worn round the waist; it is elastic, and in colour suits the pelisse. From the front are three splendid cordon ornaments, fastened by oval buckles of gold to the belt: these are of sage-leaf-green, and are entwined with flat silk braiding, two shades darker; three superb tassels of this latter shade terminate the cordons, and depend as low as the top of the Witzchoura border. The bonnet is of bright gold-coloured gros des Indes, trimmed and lined with pink.


Over a white satin slip is worn dress of beautifully figured tulle, en colonnes; with two deep flounces of blond, in a pattern corresponding with the stripes on the skirt. The body made tight to the shape, with a collar en paladin, surrounding the bust, which is very low, and falling off the shoulders. The sleeves are short, and are formed of rows of tulle falling over each other, and finished at the edges with quillings of narrow blond; from the shoulders depend two rich tassels of white silk, and form elegant ornaments on the sleeves. The waist is encircled by a friar’s belt of silk cordon, with superb tassels at the end, depending just above the upper flounce. Over the gloves, on the right wrist, are two bracelets; that next the hand consisting of two rows of turquoise-stones; that above, of the same stones, and of wrought gold, clasped by a large torquoise. On the left wrist is a simple row of larger torquoise-stones, easily unclasped, for the left finger to receive the golden fetter of marriage. The hair is beautifully and becomingly arranged in curls on each side of the face, and in bows of hair on the summit of the head. A long veil of fine white blond is tastefully fastened on the hair, and floats over the figure behind, nearly as low as the ancles: the ornaments on the hair are two bouquets of orange-flowers, with their foliage. The ear-pendants are of gold, and the necklace of finely wrought gold, separated by the small flowers “forget me not,” formed of turquoise-stones and gold; these beautiful ornaments arc placed at equal distances, looping together the chain-work of the wrought gold. In the centre of the paladin-collar, surrounding the bust, is a handsome brooch in the shape of a Maltese Cross, of large torquoise- stones set in gold.

Plate the Second

A dress of tulle over white gros de Naples, with a deep flounce round the border, edged by two rows of chain-work, formed of pink satin rouleaux: this flounce is headed in the same manner, and has the appearance of being confined down to the dress. The corsage is made plain, with a very broad falling tucker of blond, confined in the centre by a row of pink satin chain-work. The sleeves short and very full, with a narrow pink satin band round the arm. A pointed belt a la Cordeliere, encircles the waist, with one end composed of large balls of woven silk, ending in a very superb tassel; this belt is pink. The hair is arranged in the new Parisian style, extending on one side very much beyond the face, and on the other in massy ringlets: the Apollo-knot, formed of a very broad plat, and coming very near the forehead. A profusion of flowers, consisting of yellow rockets, tuberoses, full-blown red roses, blue China-astres, and a few small field-flowers, complete the coiffeure. The necklace is formed of two rows of pearls, with three pear-pearls in the centre.


A dress of celestial -blue crape, with a border formed of scrolls, in rideaux– drapery of blue satin; each upheld and ornamented by full wreaths of blue and white flowers. Over the top of this border are notched ornaments, each doubled so as to form a point, and edged round by narrow black satin ribbon. The corsage is a la Circassienne, confined by a sash, with long broad ends, finely painted on a ground of blue, with ears and leaves of the Indian corn. A bouquet of tuberoses is placed in the left side of this sash. The sleeves are short, with cleft mancherons of blue crape, edged with narrow Vandyckblond, a row of which surrounds the arm at the termination of the sleeve: between the clefts of the mancherons are small blue and white flowers. The hair is arranged a la Madonna, entirely without curls, and the braids on each side of the face, with the knot on the summit of the head, appear as one large bow of four loops. In the centre is a white China-astre, red in the middle, and on the left side a spiral aigrette formed of red and green foliage ; on the right side a half wreath, terminating at the back of the head, of one row of blue flowers, the “forget-me-not.” The ear-pendants are small, and of jet; and the necklace is formed of a single chain of jet. The bracelets on the right hand are of sapphires, set a l’antique; over this is a single row of jet beads. On the left hand are two narrow bracelets of pearls.


FIG. 1. Evening Coiffeure. – The hair arranged in the Parisian style, with a few ringlets at the nape of the neck a l’Enfant. The hair extending wide on each side, and a broad plat crossing over near the forehead to the back of the head; the summit of which is ornamented with a large full-blown rose, white hyacinths, ears of Indian corn, and small field-flowers, mixed with ears of barley. Two butterflies are seen hovering over these flowers.
Fig. 2. Another head-dress for the evening party. – The hair arranged in the modern Greek style, with a bandeau of twisted beads across the forehead. Bows of ponceau-gauze ribbons, figured with black, ornament the head.
FIG. 3. – Hair arranged a la Sappho, the clusters of curls next the face more full than that antique head dress. Puffs of celestial-blue gauze, entwined with pearls, ornament this coiffeure.
FIG. 4. – The hair, forming a head dress, composed of curls, parted on the forehead, and flowing in full ringlets down each side of the face. The Apollo ornament on the summit of the head much elevated, and ornamented in front, at the base, with cerulean-blue gauze, enriched by strings of pearls.
FIG. 5. – Back view of the same head dress, with pink gauze, and antique Grecian fillets at the back of the head, in pearls.

Plate the Third

A dress of white crape, delicately painted above the broad hem round the border, in a pattern of vine-leaves and their tendrils. The body is made rather full, and something in the style a l’Enfant, but lower in the front of the bust, and at the shoulders; the tucker part surrounded by a falling frill of blond, rather narrow, headed by three very narrow rouleaux of vine-leaf green satin; in front appears, underneath a slight portion of a chemisette tucker, of the finest lace on lawn. The sleeves are short, plain, and full, and are confined by three rouleaux of green satin round the arm, terminated by a narrow ruffle of blond. The turban worn with this dress is of ponceau gauze, checquered with black, and ornamented with short ponceau feathers. The ear-pendants are of amethysts, and the bracelets of gold and cameos.


A dress of white crape, with a flounce in full quillings, en dents de loups, edged with a narrow rouleaux of green, of an olive tinge. Over this flounce, and lying on it, are embossed green satin leaves, of the water-lily. The corsage is made plain, and tight to the shape, with a narrow tippet, en Paladin, cleft at each shoulder, and edged with a very narrow blond, headed by a satin rouleau of the same green as that on the edge of the flounce. The sleeves are short and very full. The hair is dressed a la Naide; across the forehead is a bandeau formed of three strings of pearls, and placed obliquely. On the summit of the head, where the hair is much raised, are placed aquatic flowers, amongst which the Indian lotos, or water-lily of the East is most conspicuous.
Over this dress is thrown a white swan’s-down tippet, tinged with pink, of the long, round kind. The ear-pendants are large and long, and are of finely chased gold.


A pelisse of satin, the colour of the Parma-violet, with a tablier kind of ornament, in velvet, of the same colour; this is narrow at the base of the waist, extending gradually as it reaches the feet, and is notched at the edges in the antique Paracenic style; a fichu pelerine, finished in the same manner, and of the same material, covers the bust in front, and falls over the tops of the shoulders. The sleeves a la Mameluke, with a very tight velvet cuff, notched like the pelerine, &c. A blond ruff encircles the throat, tied in front with a bow of emerald-green satin ribbon. A hat of black velvet is fastened down by a blond mentonniere, tied on the right side by emerald green ribbon, and under the brim is an ornament representing leaves, grouped together, of the same colour, in satin, puckerings of which adorn the crown of the hat, with a bow of very long loops, of green ribbon, placed on the right side of the summit. A long gold chain, of large links, is thrown over the bust, with a watch or an eye-glass depending; and some ladies wear the French ornament called a chatelaine, at the side of the belt; this is of gold, with medallions, &c., and keys, seals, and other trifles are suspended to it. A reticule of emerald green velvet, slightly embroidered in gold, is carried in the left hand.


FIG. 1. – Back view of the head-dress in hair, a la Naide.
FIG. 2. – Bonnet for the Morning Walk; of black velvet, trimmed with ruby satin ribbon, strings of which float loose.

Plate the Fourth

A pelisse of black, Indian reps silk, with a very broad hem round the border, headed by a narrow rouleau of silver grey satin; down each side of the skirt in front, placed on in the Bavarian style, are ornaments of separate leaves depending, of the same colour and material as the pelisse, edged round with silver grey ; at the base of each is a gold button. The body is made tight to the shape, and ornamented with black Brandenburghs; and fastened across the waist by a belt, with three gold buttons. The sleeves are full, plain, and in the gigot form. A beautiful Thibet shawl-scarf is thrown over this dress, in elegant drapery; it is of a bright etherial blue, with a broad, and elegant border at the ends, of large palm leaves, delicately wrought in bright and varied colours, and terminated by a deep rich fringe. The bonnet is of white, watered gros de Naples, trimmed with the same, en feuillages, edged with blond: this bonnet is ornamented under the brim, on the right side, with a plaiting of blond, broad, and appearing like the border of a small cap, underneath: on the opposite side are two loops of broad, white, striped gauze ribbon, strings of which tie the bonnet close down. Boots of silver grey kid complete the dress.


A dress of the lightest shade of lavender satin; at the border a full trimming of crepe-lisse of the same colour, bouillone; this is headed by two narrow rouleaux of satin, two shades darker; embossed jagged leaves falling over the top of the bouillon, and the rouleaux surmounted by bows of the dark lavender in satin. The corsage made quite plain, and tight to the shape. The tucker part sur- rounded by a double frill of white crepe Aerophane, edged with narow satin rouleaux of lavender, of which colour and material, are small detached leaves ornamenting the frill. The sleeves are of white crepe Aerophone, a la Mameluke, and confined at the wrists by broad, gold bracelets fastened by a cameo. Round the waist is a simple belt, to correspond with the dress ; and on the right side depends a chatelaine of gold, with a watch, small key, essence box, and other trifles. The dress hat is of white velvet, trimmed with blond and white satin, and crowned with a light and elegant plumage of white feathers. From the left aide depend three long lappets of white gauze ribbon.


FIG. 1. Evening Coiffeure. The hair elegantly arranged in full curls on each side of the face, with a small bow of hair on the summit of the head; behind which are two loops of pink gauze ribbon. A plumage of pink feathers, with a bandeau of gold across the forehead, having a medallion in the centre, complete the head-dress.
FIG. 2. – Back view of the same style of Coiffeure, with white plumage.
FIG. 3. – Cap for Home Costume. A cap of blond, with very broad border, finished in points, and turned back; next the hair, in front, are three loops of very broad gauze ribbon, of a lavender colour; two of which adorn the summit of the crown, and strings of the same ribbon float over each shoulder.
FIG. 4. – A back view of a similar cap, trimmed with a ribbon of vine leaf green.
FIG. 5. – Back view of an Opera Hat. A hat of white velvet, richly ornamented with tulle, blond, and white satin. An elegant plume of white feathers plays over the crown, in front. Long strings of white gauze ribbon float over the shoulders.


Conversation now no longer languishes in our polite circles; all is animation, all is energy in this first of cities: while the gentlemen are discussing politics, their wives and daughters are expatiating on those artists whose charming works adorn the walls of the British Institution; on those of the new singers at the Italian Opera, the latest select evening party, and all the glories of the great world.
Fashion and her changes form a never failing theme; our authentic information on this important subject, enables us to present a true statement of female attire to the inspection of those who rank high in her train, yet reside much on their estates in the country, where we have the advantage of being able to boast of many kind and generous patronesses, as well as in the sister kingdoms.
The few novelties, however, which have appeared, relate to the evening and dinner party; in out-door costume, it is not likely, during the present uncertain time of the season to bear any very decided feature: in the first place, therefore, we hasten to describe what peculiarly struck us; which was a dress for an evening party, of a remarkably bright scarlet gros de Naples, bordered by two deep flounces, set on in Chevron-festoons, Vandyked at the edges, and trimmed with a broad layer of satin, the same colour as the dress, placed at about half an inch from the edge. The body was a la Circassienne, with the drapery of scarlet crape. Long sleeves of white crepe lisse are worn over short ones of white satin, with Persian draperies of scarlet gauze, bound round with satin, in narrow bias. A cuff terminates the sleeve at the wrist, with a very conspicuous point on the outside of the arm, of scarlet silk elegantly painted in various colours. Dresses of red, either crimson, ponceau, Chinese-rose, or ruby, are much in favour; they are of gros de Naples, velvet or satin. The corsages are much cut away from the shoulders ; and long sleeves are more capacious than ever ; the short sleeves are also very wide.
Coloured velvet dresses, trimmed with white blond, are much admired : the corsages have drapery, which is generally of gauze or crape, and, is either in the Circassian or the Sevigne style.
We have seen a very beautiful bonnet of black satin, figured en Arabesques, it is tastefully trimmed with black blond about the crown, and with pink ribbon, chequered with black, and edged on each side with yellow satin stripes, on which are clouds of black. The strings are in a loop. A favorite bonnet for the carriage is of myrtle green gros de Naples, lined with canary-yellow; and ornamented on the crown with fers de Cheval, in scrolls of myrtle-green, lined with yellow and with black blond: this bonnet is adorned with three plumes formed of the tails of the bird of paradise in green and yellow, separated by bows of ribbon, corresponding in colour with the silk of the bonnet.
Among the new coiffeures is the Spanish-Cardinal-Beret. of bright ruby Indian reps silk ; this head-dress so strikingly elegant, is bound round the edge of the brim with gold lace : the crown is in treillage work; and is composed of ruby satin and gold. From the separation in front, over the forehead, depend two superb-tassels of gold, which fall over the left temple, and a beautiful white plumage plays over, and finishes this magnificent beret. A most elegant dress cap of blond, for evening parties or dinners of ceremony, is among the striking novelties of the present day. The blond is of the richest and finest texture and is disposed in fan ornaments, lightly falling over each other ; the crown is open in treillage work, and is of white satin and silver lama, a bandeau of which crosses the forehead, and is of beautiful workmanship: over this splendid cap are tastefully scattered, in separate flowers, a profusion of the Summer-rose, in full bloom. A turban of pink satin and crape, classically folded, is another new article among the coiffeure department; it is infinitely becoming, though large, and is in the form of the turbans worn by the Moorish Princes.
In the out-door envelopes nothing new can be expected to take place till about the middle of March, at the soonest. Pelisses are, certainly, more in favour than cloaks, except for the carriage, where they are seen of a very superb kind; but in neither of these can we yet expect any particular novelty.
We highly recommend a very elegant dress tippet, which we saw belonging to a very charming young lady, at the court end of the town; and as young people in large parties are often seated near the door, such precautionary coverings are as useful as they are ornamental. This round tippet was formed of celestial-blue and white crape, and had the two colours mingled, en clochettes: the whole appearance of this graceful appendage was light, and unobtrusive, though well adapted to the dress party.
The colours most admired, are celestial-blue, myrtle-green, canary-yellow, scarlet, ruby, and pink.


HATS AND BONNETS. – The hats are chiefly of black or rose-colour; violet-colour lined with white, green with ponceau, brown with, yellow; the red and blue are plain, and trimmed with the same colours. When a hat is not adorned with a willow feather, or two esprits, it has, for ornament, several long, white feathers. White satin bonnets, with a demi-veil of blond, are much admired.
It is not only hats and bonnets of gros de Naples which are embroidered in silk. A satin bonnet of Russian green has appeared, worked in a pattern, with white silk. The rosettes and the strings were also ornamented with embroidery.
Hats of white satin, lined with blue or rose-coloured velvet, are worn; they are adorned with plumes boiteuses, rose and white, or blue and white. Bonnets of black velvet, lined with light green, and ornamented with satin bows, are much in request, as are those of violet-coloured gros de Naples, lined with bird of Paradise yellow, or English green, lined with Parma violet.

OUT-DOOR COSTUME. Many ladies of fashion, who wear only their hair, without any covering, tie their boa- tippets across the lower part of their faces, to keep the cold from their ears.
Several very elegant ladies are seen, in walking, with boots of purple Morocco, lined with marten.
Many ladies, on quitting a ball-room, put on cloaks lined with fur. These Witzchouras do not descend so low as other cloaks.
Square shawls of blue or red Cachemire, sprinkled with very small dots of gold, are often thrown over the shoulders of the most fashionable females of distinction.
The pelisses are made of materials of very rich texture, either figured or plain. Many of them are trimmed with broad bias folds of velvet. The cuffs and pelerine are always velvet, trimmed with fringe at the edges, or notched.

DRESSES. Sleeves made in the English style have, besides the turn which the hollowing out of the sleeve has round the corsage, to introduce the arm, a kind of crescent, of the same material as the dress, but puckered or plaited in a thousand little plaits. This crescent forms the epaulette of the uniform worn by the British troops. Sometimes it is of velvet on a satin dress, and of satin on velvet. It seems to be destined in assisting a dress-maker to fasten the sleeves very low, under the shoulder.
Some whimsical ladies have brought in again a circular wristband, en bouffont, which, last summer, surrounded the elbow of the sleeve a la Marie; now, being brought lower, it is called a ruffle.
Velvet dresses prevail much, particularly at the Opera, on a benefit night. Gowns for half-dress are of rose or cherry-coloured satin; they are made high, with a ruff round the throat.
Dresses of white or coloured crape have often the addition of a blond mantelet. Indian reps silk, or Ispahan velvet, of a celestial blue, have wide sleeves of blond, and a pelerine trimmed with blond. Ball-dresses are painted and enlivened in a novel and fanciful style, the ground is chiefly of stiffened white gauze. Above the bias, at the border of either coloured or white crape dresses, worn at balls, is a wreath of vine leaves or poplar, embroidered in green silk. Several wreaths, in smaller proportions, surround the corsage and the wrists.
There are sleeves called a la Muette (de Portici:) they are long, and have, at their terminations, a bouffont cuff, laid in small plaits, called a ruffle.
A dress of green velvet, with a small wreath of myrtle, worked in gold, above the broad hem, with a friar’s belt of gold round the waist, and wide sleeves of white blond, having a narrow ruffle round the wrist, and a double row of blond round the corsage, has met with much admiration; as has also a dress of rose-coloured satin, trimmed with a bias fold of the same colour, in velvet; this bias is cut in points, fastened to the skirt by knots of pearls. The corsage is of rose-coloured velvet, ornamented round the tucker part with pearls, and a small epaulette fringed with pearls, falls over the blond sleeves; the friar’s belt is also of pearls. Satin ornaments, notched, and set on strait, or the notches crossed over each other, are often placed over the broad hem at the border.
At the wrists of long sleeves are often seen two wrist-bands, which approach each other so close, that the fullness of the cuff forms a bouffont between, and which the French ladies call a ruffle ; it forms a pretty ornament over the hand.
In evening parties a boa-tippet is often thrown over the dress ; it is formed of Marabouts, rose-colour shaded with white, or blue and white.
Net-work ornaments of silk beading are now a favourite kind of trimming, falling over the heads of the broad hems; each row is terminated by a little tassel, which has a very pretty effect; a fringe to correspond trims the sash, and the five points which fall over the short sleeves. These trimmings are seen on gauze and crape dresses.
At evening parties are seen many gowns of velvet satin, and of other rich materials ; they are most admired when of cherry-colour, trimmed with blond. Every shade of violet is also much in request; a violet-coloured satin dress, ornamented with velvet leaves, appliquees, has been lately made for a lady of rank.
A ball dress has been remarked of rose-coloured crape, bordered with a broad bias fold of the same coloured satin, above which was a little wreath formed of the tips of Marabout feathers, mingled with puffs of ribbon, of rose satin. Dresses of white crape are ornamented with wreaths painted in different colours, and mixed with ornaments of gold or silver; these are much admired for evening dress. The sash is broad, and embroidered with gold or silver.
Ladies of fashion wear blond ruffles with their short sleeves, which remind us of the reign of Louis XV., for, at the inside of the arm, the blond is much narrower than at the elbows.
If the border of a ball dress is ample, in revenge, there is a vast quantity of blond used in trimming the top of the sleeves, and also in the falling tucker at the back, which borders the corsage.
Ladies, who do not dance, wear, at the border of their dresses, one flounce of blond, headed by embroidery of gold or silver.
Satin dresses of English green, are trimmed with a broad Chenille fringe. A dress is much admired of a very rich gauze, ornamented with six narrow satin rouleaux, just above the hem, round the border : the corsage is of satin. Figured merinos are still worn in deshabille, with a pelerine of the same, ornamented by a broad trimming ; the sleeves are a la Religeuse, with a very narrow wristband. Navarines , Bombazins, and Alpine Cachemires, all fabricated at La Savonnerie, are much in use for morning dresses.
Above the broad hem of a dress of cherry-coloured crape, is a trimming of white silk beading; a white silk friar’s belt is worn with this dress.
At a ball given at court, Madame, her Royal Highness the Duchess de Berri, wore a white dress, sprinkled over with gold spots, woven in the tissue; the corsage was ornamented with diamonds, marking out all the contour of the shape. The tunic was of red Cachemire.
Madame La Dauphine wore a dress of Saxon green velvet (this is a light green, but very lively and brilliant;) bows of white satin were placed in front of the skirt, forming an apron, and in every bow of satin glittered an ear of corn in diamonds. The corsage was in drapery, and the folds were drawn together by diamond brooches. At the border of the dress was a broad trimming of blond. The sleeves were short, and composed of frills of blond.

HEAD-DRESSES. – The hair is often ornamented with puffs of ribbon, called hair-colour, which is of the darkest and the lightest shades of the chesnut, or of the light brown of the wearer’s hair. These ribbons are interwoven with narrow stripes of gold or silver. Velvet berets are ornamented with long, white feathers, three of which are placed under the brim, and two above; the berets are in the form of Spanish toques; the feathers, which are under the brim, are fastened in the centre by a diamond brooch. Blond caps are more in fashion than head-dresses in hair; the caps are adorned by a profusion of flowers. On head-dresses in hair are often seen two rows of quilled blond, separated by small branches of flowers, forming a half-coronet, which extends from one ear to the other, and are terminated by two long lappets of gauze or ribbon. A small cap, with a blond caul, and without any trimming, is ornamented in front with a wreath of puffed ribbon. Hops in blossom, mingled with ponceau feathers, and forming together a coronet. There are other coronets, composed of bunches of grapes and roses. The rose-geranium is a favourite flower in the hair at balls.

A head-dress in hair has been seen at a ball, called a la Psyche. It is composed of a great number of plats, and surmounted by a butterfly in brilliants.
The most distinguished ornaments on berets are the tails of the bird of paradise, disposed in aigrettes; of these there are generally three. A beret of ponceau velvet, thus adorned, is greatly admired. Many head-dresses are composed of pearls, mingled with the hair, and rose-coloured Marabouts; bouquets, also, of foliage, with delicate blossoms, formed like a bird of paradise, and placed in pairs among the tresses, produce a charming effect.
The Dauphiness, at the last court ball, wore a Saxon green velvet toque, ornamented with a great number of wheat-ears, in diamonds, and differently coloured stones.
A turban of rose-coloured and silver gauze, ornamented with silver aigrettes, is often worn at dress balls.

JEWELLERY. – Chatelaines are still in favour. The Duchesse de Berri, at the last ball given at court, had her hair adorned with jewels of different colours.
A young Marchioness, on her presentation at court, wore ear-pendants, necklace, and bracelets, composed of rubies and diamonds.

MISCELLANEOUS. Besides the large carpet in a bed-chamber, there is a hearth-rug, and on that a carreau (foot-stool), whereon to place the lady’s slippers to air before the fire.
A whimsical fashion, which cannot last, has taken place in the stockings of ladies in full dress; they are of flesh- coloured silk, on which are painted little birds, in blue, or butterflies in their varieus natural colours.
Bouquets, carried in the hand, are much in vogue. In full dress many ladies carry an aumoniere (a kind of net purse) , which species of reticule looks well with velvet or satin.
White gloves are worn in evening dress, richly embroidered, either in white silk, in various colours, or with gold.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onwards to April 1829

Back to February 1829

Newest London and Parisian Fashions for February 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c . AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others ; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

Plate the First

A dress of canary-yellow, gros de Naples, with a broad, full border of gauze of the same colour, bouillone; this is headed by a narrow rouleau, from whence descends embossed foliage, in satin, of single detached leaves ; these are surmounted by branches of foliage of yellow satin, which with twisted stalks, ascend, in a spiral, but oblique direction across the skirt. The body is made quite plain and fitting tight to the shape; very low off the shoulders, and the bust surrounded by a double falling tucker of blond, of a rich and splendid pattern, two points of which ornament the short, full sleeves on the outside of the arm, each fastened down by two small rosettes of white satin. The waist is incircled by a cordelier’s belt, in yellow. The hair is parted on the forehead, and arranged on each side, in a profusion of ringlets, longer on one side than on the other; where the hair is parted on the forehead, a la Madonna, is a bandeau, formed of one row of pearls. The head-dress is completed by a turban of ponceau crepe, ornamented round the back part of the crown, with gold and sprigs of heath on the summit, in front.
N.B. A similar dress, in white satin, of which we have given a back view, is represented, with the turban of etherial-blue.


A pelisse of blue satin, or of gros de Naples; the skirt surrounded by a border of two rows of sable forming a rich border, each row surmounted by beautiful embroidery on white satin, the colours employed on which are chaste and delicate, and, by no means too vivid or rendering the dress unfit for the promenade, for which, by its make and warmth, it is well adapted; for it is wadded, and fastens up quite close to the throat; though the corsage is en gerbe it is admirably fitted to set off the beauty of the shape, by its adherence to the form ; it buttons down the front of the waist to the belt, which is narrow, and, formed of two sprig-rouleaux; these elastic belts are easy, and yet always tight enough. The sleeves are en gigot, and the cuffs and collar are of the same fur which constitutes the border. The bonnet is of rather a close, but quite novel form, and is of blue silk, with stripes two shades darker than the ground; it is trimmed with large bows of ribbon to correspond.


A dress of crape over white satin, with two deep flounces of beautiful blond; over the upper one is a superb pattern of embroidery worked on the dress in white floize silk. The corsage is of white satin, with a Sevigne drapery across the bust, of crape, The centre of this is brought together by a row of elegant fancy trimming, which descends down the front of the waist to the sash, which consists simply of white ribbon. The sleeves are long, transparent, and a la Marie; confined only above the elbow, by a band of figured satin ribbon; cleft mancherons, edged with blond, fall over the shoulders, and a narrow tucker of blond surrounds the bust; jointed bracelets, of Turquoise-stone, and Cameos incircle the wrists; round which are besides, elegant cuffs of white satin, with point, of blond. The head-dress consists of a dress hat of white satin, lined with Minerva-blue velvet, crowned with a profusion of blue and white marabout plumage, strings of white ribbon, chequered with Minerva-blue float loose.


The dress here represented is that of an Archon’s daughter, and is a charming combination of fancy and splendour. Over a petticoat of Pomona green silk, bordered with three bands of scarlet, is a close bodied short dress of scarlet, richly embroidered with gold. The corsage is of green silk, with points falling over the breast, edged by gold lace, and a white silk apron, worked in that fine embroidery of variously coloured flowers, in which the modern as well as the ancient Greeks are known to excel, finishes the dress. The sleeves, which are of scarlet, superbly embroidered with gold, square, long, and fit close to the arms; but the cuff at the wrist is extremely loose, and is ornamented on the outside of the hand, from the wrist, with the small gold coin of the country. The hair is parted on the forehead, and is formed on each side, below the ears, in a cluster of bushy curls, like that of the men; the long, hinder tresses, are brought forward in two plats on each side, and descend as low as the knees. A lofty cap, of a pyramidical form, of scarlet velvet, ornaments the head; over this is a band of blue and white, which gently presses down the crown or caul, across, with a rosette of white and scarlet on the right side; a band of blue and silver encircles the cap next the hair. The stockings are of blue silk, and the seam, which is in front of the leg, is of gold; the slippers are of the same colour, with gold rosettes.


A dress of white crepe Aerophone, over white satin, bordered simply with a broad hem; black velvet corsage, pointed a la Marie Stuart, with a Sevigne drapery across the bust, and points at each shoulder, which form mancherons over long white sleeves, a la Marie, of crepe Aerophone; the fullness of these sleeves is confined in the centre of the thicker part of the arm, by armlets of gold and emeralds, and at the wrists by bracelets to correspond. A friar’s belt of gold, with three superb thistle tassels, encircles the waist, the ends falling nearly as low as the feet. The coiffeure consists of a hat of black velvet, placed very much on one side, and under the brim, on the elevated part, is an ornament of gold chain cordon, and a pink feather, which waves in a spiral direction towards the crown, from whence, playing elegantly over the front, are four pink feathers. The ear-pendants are of wrought gold, very large and long, en Girandoles, and the necklace is composed of two rows of massive chains of gold. In the centre of the Sevigne drapery, across the bust, is a brooch of emeralds or turquoise-stone, set in gold, a l’Antique.


A dress of satin, the colour of the marsh-mallow blossom; a broad hem, Vandyked at the head, ornaments the border; between each point is a round leaf, edged with a narrow rouleau; this foliage is embossed, and has a very pleasing effect. The corsage is concealed by a loug, pelerine tippet, of the same material as the dress, edged round by a full ruche of white blond, and the two ends finished by a handsome rosette of marsh-mallow blossom satin; these ends are drawn through a belt of the same colour and material as the dress, buckled in front by a silver buckle; two niches of narrow blond surround the throat, divided by a ruff, disposed en serpentine; the sleeves are en jigot. A beret of black velvet forms the head dress, ornamented with bouquets of dark green heath, the blossoms just opening. Strings of gauze ribbon, beautifully painted, but not in vivid colours, float loose. Notwithstanding the beauty and value of the materials, it will naturally occur to our readers, from the make of this costume, that it is calculated chiefly for the friendly or family dinner party, or receiving company at home, and not for the dinner of ceremony.


FIG. 1. A head dress in hair, en Corbeille, arranged in full curls on each side of the face, and parted from the plaits composing the Corbeille on the summit of the head, by two strings of pearls, one of the strings slightly crossing the upper part of the forehead. Above the ornament of hair on the summit is a full group of flowers, consisting of full blown Provence roses, and tuberoses, with green foliage.
FIG. 2. Back view of a dress hat of velvet, the colour, Parma violet, fastened up behind and in front with gold chain cordon, and crowned with superb white plumage.
FIG. 3. A side view of a head dress in hair, a la Corbeille, with a slighter portion of flowers, consisting of damask-roses, and trefoil, or shamrock.

Plate the Third


A dress of holly-leaf-green, or any other lively winter colour, of satin, with abroad hem round the border, headed by four narrow tucks falling over each other, from whence depend, and lie on the hem, in a waving direction, a row of embossed jagged leaves. A canezou spencer of velvet, the same colour as the dress, forms the corsage, and mancherons of the same, consisting of jagged foliage, ornament the top of the sleeves, which are a la Marie, and the fullness very slightly confined round the thicker part of the arm these sleeves are of the same material as the dress, and are fastened at the wrist by a very broad gold bracelet, clasped by a cameo. A velvet band encircles the waist, fastened in front with a square gold buckle. A full ruff of blond is worn round the throat. The hat is of black velvet, with several short black feathers, and ornamented under the brim, on each side, by pink satin ribbons, cut to represent feathers. Strings of pink ribbon, edged with black hair-stripes, float loose. Half-boots of tea- green prunella, and woodstock gloves, complete the dress.


A dress of white Cachemire, bordered by a very broad hem, over which is a Greek pattern embroidered in colours. The sleeves en Chemisettes, full, and confined round the wrist by a broad bracelet in mosaic work. Over this dress is worn a long cloak of Indian manufacture, of the Cachemire kind, with a broad and most splendid border, in various colours, of an Oriental pattern. The ground of this superb cloak is of cerulean-blue, or other striking colour, and is lined throughout with white satin. The collar, which ties round the throat, is composed of marten-skin, and the cape is in the form of the Russian mantelet, depending rather lower than the elbows. The collar ties at the throat with a rich cordon, the same shade as the cloak : the ends fall as low as the summit of the broad hem at the border of the dress, with very superb tassels. The bonnet is of satin, the same colour as the cloak, elegantly ornamented with bows of ribbon of the same tint, mixed with Parma-violet: a large yellow Gueldre-rose is placed in front of the bonnet.


A dress of celestial-blue, watered gros de Naples; the corsage en Circassienne, with cleft mancherons over long white crape sleeves, en jigot. A beret of celestial-blue spotted gauze, with two white esprits, forms the head-dress. These esprits are placed under the brim; the beret is also ornamented with bows of blue and silver lama ribbons. The ear-pendants are of wrought gold. A full bouquet is carried in the hands.


FIG. 1. Back view of a Carriage Dress. A dress of Parma- violet-coloured satin, with a velvet canezou spencer, ornamented in the same manner as that on the full length figure in this plate. The hat of black velvet, and its plumage, &c, are also similar to that figure.
FIG. 2. A back-view of a half-length, in a similar dress – The gown of the back figure is in canary-yellow gros de Naples, with a beret of ponceau-gauze, with black satin stripes, ornamented with white esprits, and the crown en treillage.

Plate the Fourth

A pelisse of black velvet, bordered a la Witzchoura, with Chinchilla, finished at the back and bust with fichu-robings, and surmounted at the throat by a round tippet of Chinchilla, placed under a French ruff of clear, stiffened, book muslin, edged with Vandyck lace. Black velvet bonnet, with elegant plumage and walking demi-brodequins, of black kid, lined with fur. Some ladies prefer this costume of violet-coloured velvet, trimmed with marten-skin, and a round, long tippet of the same fur.


A dress of pink crape, trimmed at the border with puffings of pink satin ribbon, edged with narrow black stripes, and set on in bias; the body made tight to the shape with a sash; the ends tying behind, very short, with a small bow. The sleeves short, and very full, and trimmed in stripes of bias puffings, to answer the ornaments on the border of the dress. Round the bust is a double falling tucker of blond. The hair is arranged in very full clusters of curls on each side of the face; entirely parted on the forehead, and on the right side, the curls are crossed over by a half wreath of small, full-blown roses, both red and white, and a slight portion of green foliage. The Apollo knot, consisting of two puffs of hair, crossed obliquely by a large platted braid, is much elevated, and crowned by light curls, and red and white flowers, of the evening primrose kind. The ear-pendants are of wrought gold ; the shoes of white satin, tied en sandales.
A bouquet of red and white roses, is carried in the left
N. B. Back view of a sitting figure, in a similar dress, formed of white crape, with a white satin corsage; the ornaments and sash of etherial blue, as are the flowers on the hair.


FIG. I. – Evening Party Head-Dress. – The hair in light curls on each side of the face, parted on the forehead by a Madona braid, and two bandeaux of pearls; in the centre of each a turquoise, set out in small pearls. The Apollo-knot, in the usual form, elevated, and crossed obliquely with one plat. On each side of the hair is a full-blown, single, red rose, and a blue China-Astre; the flowers surmounting the Apollo-knot are of the same kind. The ear-pendants are in the form of a cross, and are of pearls or diamonds.
FIG. 2. – Blond Cap for demi-parure. – A cap, in the toque form, composed of rich broad blond, separated by rouleaux of celestial-blue satin; broad strings of which ribbon float
FIG. 3. – Blond Cap. – Composed of quillings of blond, with a broad border, turned back from the front, and puffs of pink satin ribbon next the hair. The blond is ornamented with pink satin narrow rouleaux. This coiffeure is for home costume.
FIG. 4. – Hat for Promenade Costume. – A hat of black velvet, ornamented with three black ostrich feathers. Under the brim are bows of the palest shade of red lilac. The hat fastens under the chin by a mentonniere of blond.
FIG. 5. – Side View of an Evening Coiffeure. – The hair arranged a la Grecque, with the antique fillets, formed of small plaits of hair, parts of which are wound round the Apollo-knot; which is crowned by a large blue China-Astre. Three leaves of the pineapple foliage ornament the hair in front of the forehead ; and on the left side, near them, is a small blue China- Astre; the curls next the face are by no means exuberant, and are in the Egyptian-ringlet style. The ear-rings are of pearls.


The question of, “Why are our Magazins de Modes so filled with all that taste and luxury can invent, does no body buy ?” cannot now be asked, since a succession of the most attractive and elegant novelties appear, almost daily ; and before the close of this mouth, they will, we believe, scarcely be enabled to keep pace with the demands of the illustrious purchasers, whom we trust them to be, adding splendour to the first metropolis in the world, by their presence; for these many novel articles are now in preparation, though not yet completed.
There is, however, at present; nor can it be denied whatsoever may be set forth in the ephemeral journals of Fashion, a stagnation in the progressive march of the rainbow Diety, which, during the gelid month of January, in which every lively faculty of mind and spirit seem, in a manner frozen, is generally known to halt, and become stationery till about the middle, or latter end of the more cheering month of February ; we, therefore, have but few novelties to record, and those are chiefly confined to the fancy dresses of some late grand galas in the country; two of which we offer the following description to our readers, as we found them peculiarly striking and dignified.
Over a white satin dress, with a flounce at the border of the same, doubled in bias, and set on in large, full plaits, was worn a superb black velvet robe, a l’Artemise; this was splendidly trimmed all round, with a rich and costly fringe formed of very small jet beads; the white satin dress, from the robe being left open in front, formed a fine contrast to the monotony of the black; and the festoons of jet fringe, which seemed to fasten it in front, at separate distances, produced a charming effect over the white satin; the bust, of the robe was ornamented all round the tucker part with the same fringe. The short sleeves were of white satin; over these were long ones transparent, and of white Japanese gauze: at the back of the sleeves hung the ancient drapery of the robes of Crete, somewhat like those now worn in Poland, adding much grace to the robe; and these were of black velvet, fringed with jet: the points at the wrists of the white sleeves were fluted, and similar to the antique British points. This truly classical dress of that self-devoted pattern of conjugal affection, Queen Artemesia, was finished by the regal coronet of former ages, formed of white satin, and the points edged round with pearls, from whence depended behind, as low as the feet, the distinguishing veil of royalty, worn at that period.
Another dress for one of these brilliant occasions, is that of a youthful grand Sultaness ; it consists of a pair of white satin Turkish trowsers, over which is worn a dress of the finest oriental muslin, spotted with silver, and embroidered with the same round the border, in a very elegant pattern of Indian flowers. A short, white satin tunic is put on over this dress, fringed round and embroidered with embossed figures in silver, of the shape of pear-peals, formed into flowers. The back of the waist consists of bracers of white satin, laid in plaits, and fringed with silver cockscomb-edging. On the shoulders are ornaments of fine oriental pearls ; and in front of the bust is a Turkish cresent of the same valuable materials. A belt of white satin and silver incircles the waist. The head-dress with this interesting costume is a Turkish turban of French white satin and gauze, with a pearl cresent in front: a kind of diadem ornament, embellished with jewels of various kinds, on white satin, in eastern figures, is placed near the crown ; the Turkish folds next the hair are of the Japanese-gauze ; of which is the Sultana-viel, that depends behind; and which is ornamented to correspond with the dress.
The usual articles for female costume remain with but little alteration since our last accounts; whatever there is of novelty will be found in our engravings. There is, however, among the new head-dresses, a very magnificent turban for the evening party, of gaze brillantee! the tissu of which is in real gold. In the front is a fluted ornament of bright amber-couloured crepe Aerophane, en eventail. On the right side is a bow, with short ends fringed with gold, of the same material as the turban. The caps have experienced but little change since last month; except that we find those of black blond rather more in favour than those which are white; these are adorned with pink satin ribbon, with roses and their buds; and are in the Paon style. Berets still continue in favour.
Few bonnets are now seen in preference to black velvet; we have, however, given a fac-simile in our first plate of one of an entire new shape, of striped silk; no head-covering can be more appropriate to the promenade, as it ties closely down, yet is rendered infinitely becoming by being made short at the ears; it is on the walking figure, in a blue pelisse. In carriages a few velvet hats have been seen, and the black velvet ones are often ornamented with aigrettes, or esprit feathers.
In carriages, the pelisses are of velvet, of different colours, and are often trimmed with fur, with a long pelerine tippet of the same material. The out-door envelopes for walking, continue the same as last month, with scarce any alteration worth remarking.
The colours most in favour are marsh-mallow-blossom, azure-blue, pink, amber. The green of the young holly, scarlet, and lemon-colour.


HATS AND BONNETS. – There are hats of gros de Naples, embroidered with silk of two different colours; the wreath, which borders the upper part of the brim, is of the same shade as the lining, and that which is worked underneath, is the colour of the upper part of the brim.
Hats of blue velvet, ornamented feathers, half-blue, half sulphur-yellow, have appeared in the public walks, and have been much admired.

OUT-DOOR COSTUME. – With morning pelisses, are always worn gloves of some very light colour, embroidered in different shades: at the wrist they are surrounded by plush, the same colour as the embroidery.
Some boa tippets are fastened on one side of the sash by a gold serpent, which surrounds the boa like a ring, and is attached to the sash by means of a hook.
The cloaks which are of red, blue, or green, are made of a woollen stuff, the upper part of which resembles cut velvet, on cloth. This material is fabricated at la Savonerie, and is named manteaux duchesse, a cape cut square, falls lower than the elbow.
A pelisse of gros de Naples, the colour, sulphur-yellow, has been in high favour lately; it is ornamented all round by a border of small pinks and blue-bells, embroidered in silk.
In carriages, when paying morning visits, ladies wear a Turkish shawl, with gold flowers interwoven.

DRESSES. Embroidery on silk, still composes the ornaments on gowns for evening dress ; the most admired are of light materials, such as Palmyrene, poplin-gause, and lawn-gauze. Gros de Naples, merinos, and Cachemires, are also embroidered.
There is a charming invention, in which lightness, grace and splendour are united ; it is the trimming composed of ribbons on tulle or crape ; this species of garniture has a beautiful effect on ball-dresses, and very much resembles
silken* {*Some of our readers, perhaps, may recollect the ribbon-work embroidery of the year 1795. We shall be happy to see it revived: it only does for small flowers and foliage, but the variety of colours in the shaded narrow ribbon is admirable. It is expeditiously performed. – T.} embroidery: the mediocrity of its price, renders it facile to have it often renewed. Amongst the newest ball- dresses, one has been remarked of crepe-aerophane, the colour of the bird-of-paradise; it was surrounded by a broad hem; but three broad satin ribbons, from beneath the front of the sash, at about a hand’s breadth distance from each other, descend to the top of the hem, where they fasten three bouquets, composed of blue-bells, corn-poppies, and ears of wheat. The corsage is made in drapery, at the front and at the back; the short sleeves seem as if fastened on by a bouquet of blue bells and corn poppies attached to the shoulder. The same flowers compose a bouquet placed in the sash, on one side.
A very pretty deshabille is composed of a dress trimmed with two broad bias folds, above which are two cockleshells in satin, separated from the bias by a beaded tuck, or a narrow quilling of black blond. The corsage is made with a stomacher. The sleeves very full, with narrow wrist- bands. The sash very broad.
At balls, young persons belonging to the higher classes, are very simply attired. The dress is of crape with a broad hem as high as the knee ; the corsage a l’Edith, short sleeves, and a narrow lace appearing below them, belonging to the chemise.
Some elegant ladies of fashion have their ball-dresses of crape, the colour called eminence, (it is a violet, which by candle-light, appears that of the marshmallow blossom. These dresses are trimmed with a bias, surmounted by large plaits of satin: three rows of which plaiting descend from the sash, and unite themselves to this bias; where three bouquets of flowers, part imitating nature, the other part natural flowers, appear to fasten the rows of plaiting.
The border of marten-skin, which surrounds some black velvet dresses, is sometimes cut in festoons, at the upper part.
A dress of straw-coloured Organdy, on which is worked, in flat embroidery, a wreath of coquelicots and blue-bells, forms a very beautiful dress.
Among the newest articles for the ball-room, or evening party, are the following ; gros de Perse, Duphone, a transparent material, figured; Persian gauze, with Cachemire flowers ; and Smyrna gauze, both plain and figured.
The colorettes a la Medicis, had, as it is well known, a vertical direction, and did not conceal the neck; they were worn in the time of Henry IV. They are spoken of in a moral work, written in the age of Louis XIII., which calls the exposure of the bust the fashion of the “free and easy Marguerite.”* {*The repudiated first wife of Henry IV. daughter to Catherine Medicis. Margaret was alike renowned for her beauty as for the extreme laxity of her moral conduct.} “How can any one, this spirited writer adds, “be looked on, as a woman of honour, who continually obtrudes on one, the sight of her naked arms and bosom?
It was only towards the middle part of the reign of Louis XIV. this fashion changed: and during the regency, they made themselves amends for that restraint, nor were the ladies in the time of Louis XIV. at much expence for fichus.
The broad bias fold at the border of some ball dresses is afoot in breadth, and is surmounted by three tucks ; some- times these tucks are in satin of a different colour to the dress, and then the corsage and sleeves are in unison. The tucker part of the corsage is generally trimmed with two or three rows of quilled tulle, laid in very large plaits; some fanciful ladies have their ball dresses trimmed with watered ribbon, the same colour as the corsage, which is generally blue or pink; the ribbon is put on the skirt in net-work, and ascends as high as the knee; young women of fashion often wear a tulle dress over lemon-coloured satin. The tulle is embroidered with a row of pinks, and at the height of the knee is a row of bouquets.

HEAD-DRESSES. With a ball dress, described under our list of dresses, is worn a wreath of blue bells and corn poppies, across the forehead, and the same flowers lightly scattered round the head. The hair is gathered up to the summit in tresses, forming a kind of ball, from whence emerge masses of cork-screw ringlets.
Most of the dress hats are of plain velvet, either bird-of-paridise, eminence, or white. A broad gauze ribbon, with satin stripes, the same colour as the velvet, conceals the place where two coloured feathers are fastened in front. At the right side, this ribbon terminates in a large bow.
Besides butterflies, musquito, hawk-flies, and humming-birds, ladies often add strings of pearls to ornament their hair, and the pearls often entwine the small plats which compose the corbeille on the summit of the head. This fashion may be dated back to the reign of Henry IV.; several portraits of Gabrielle d’Estree’s represent her with a similar coiffeure.
The round crowns of tulle caps, called dress-caps, are puckered, and have on the summit a bow of gauze ribbon with satin stripes. Two folds trimmed with tulle surround the border of these caps. Under the upper fold which stand up, is a cordon formed of lilies of the valley, or of heath in blossom.
Arrows, corn in ear, and sprigs of pearls, are often seen, with a band of pearls round the waist ; and berets are ornamented also frequently with pearls. A plain velvet beret the colour, eminence, has been seen with two rows of pearls at the edge; a rosaee, in pearls, is worked on the flat crown; and three or four strings of pearls terminated by a tassel, fall over the shoulder.

JEWELLERY. In half dress, ladies wear, as an ornament, a small gold key, suspended to the girdle by a cordon formed of hair, with gold sliders. The large gold chains which are thrown over the neck, are sometimes fastened up by a rich Sevigne, or a brooch which fixes them at the centre of the bust.
Summer, itself, never produced so many butterflies as the female toilet presents this winter: butterflies in wrought gold, in differently coloured stones, in enamel, in diamond’s and even in black beads for mourning. These butterflies are placed on the hair, or the bust, and often on the shoulders for brooches.
One row of large pearls forms a favourite necklace worn with ball-dresses, and a ribbon of black velvet with a heart and cross a la Jeannette. Sometimes three or four rows of pearls incircle the throat; when there are five rows they are placed one stage below the other, the last row descending as low as the girdle.
Bandeaux of different coloured stones are placed very low across the forehead ; they are enriched with vaccilating gems like the new necklaces.

MISCELLANEOUS – L’Enodie is a perfume to be burnt in apartments, and which imparts the natural odour of several flowers. The pastiles are acidulated slightly, and this preparation has the double advantage of embalming and purifying the air.
L’Eusmophore is a charming article, of various forms, but all are made equally rich and elegant, and are worthy of decorating the most tasteful boudoir, or the most splendid drawing-room. They are used as supporters to thickly- grouped bouquets of flowers; and at the base, should be burnt the Enodie mentioned above.
There have appeared some new eye-glasses, which are set in mosaic. This setting represents a wreath of flowers.
Instead of making use of counters, at the game of ecarte, there are small tablets of ebony or ivory, on which are five little balls of polished steel, or gold, which mark, by means of a spring, whatever has been gained.
One of the prettiest card-racks lately invented, has, instead of the different days to receive the cards, so many butterflies, of various colours, which, placed on a ground of white or black, produce a charming effect.
At the desert following a grand dinner, four pyramids are indispensible: baskets, or plateaux, of different stages, with oranges, Madeira oranges, Maltese oranges, oranges from Nice, and those from Portugal. The baskets are of open work, and are platted, or of china to correspond with the service. The four sorts of oranges must be all separate from each other.
Boxes from Spa, a favourite present made at the commencement of the new year, are formed like a long glove, and are made to contain one, or several dozens of pairs, of gloves.
At the time when tea is taken, a servant opens the two folding doors, and pronounces, with a loud voice – “Tea is ready ! The company then pass into the eating- room, which is lighted by lamps placed against the wainscot, and by a lustre containing five lamps, depending from the ceiling: globes of glass soften the light of these lamps. On a mahogany table, without a cloth, are ranged plates and baskets filled with cakes and fruit. In the midst is a brown, varnished copper urn; cups and tea-pots of the different teas are set round the urn. It is only ladies who are seated round the table.
We quote, not as a fashion, but a caprice of a pretty woman, a pair of silk stockings of flesh colour, in which were woven coloured flowers.
While some of our ladies, devotees to fashion, place but- terflies of different coloured gems, or gold enamel, in their hair, others adorn their tresses with humming birds, and other of the small-winged race that have brilliant plumage; these birds, like the butterflies, are set on vibrating pins. Five or six form a head-dress.
The more rigorous the season, the more prodigal are the wealthy of their flowers, when they give a ball. Besides the boxes of shrubs, which ornament the stair-case and gallery, there are bouquets suspended to the pannels and to the lustres in the drawing-room. A rash hand having seized one of these bouquets, a few evenings ago, they were soon transferred to the side on which the ladies were seated.
There are now some fire-skreens of white Scotch fir, ornamented with drawings in acquatinta, so well executed, that they appear like the work of a first-rate artist.
The new smelling bottles are made like a powder flask ; they are of chased gold, or enamel; two small handles serve to uphold a chain united by a ring, and on this ring is a hook which fastens to the sash.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to March 1829

Back to January 1829

Newest London and Parisian Fashions for January, 1829

This publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3 Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c/. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they import an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

Plate the First


Though the nobility and the higher order of gentry in Russia dress in the French and English style, yet the wives and daughters of the most wealthy merchants, who hold a distinguished place of honour and respect in the Emperor’s dominions, retain their national costume, which is at once rich, beautiful, and peculiarly becoming to their cast of features. They have, also, of late, adopted the corsets worn in England and France, which have preserved their shapes, and proves the flaccidity so generally apparent in the Russian female, by after fourteen or fifteen, is not a deformity peculiar to the country, or entirely owing to the enervating and relaxing stove, over which artificial heat they indulge in their apartments, almost suffocating from their warmth, but that the shapes of the ladies in St. Petersburgh and Moscow, yield to none, when well taken care of.

The dress now presented to the notice of our fair readers is that of a merchant’s young wife of St. Petersburgh. Her dress is of a rich silk of pomegranate red, trimmed next o the feet by a border of some very valuable animal, from Siberia, the colour of the light sable of America. Over this is a layer of blue satin, embroidered with white and red: at some distance above is a zig-zag wave of yellow and green, and the border terminates over that by another layer of blue satin, embroidered similar to that which heads the fur. The body is made en Corset, lacing in front with blue silk cordon, and round the bust, and down each side of the lacing, are set, very close together, pearls of immense value. A chemisette tucker, of fine cambric draws modestly over the bust; and a girdle like a military sash, encircles the waist, in the old Russian style, in Grecian looseness; this sash has a double row of very rich fringe of scarlet and yellow ornamenting the ends, which descend as low as the border of the skirt. Long white sleeves of very fine cambric or lawn, cover the arms to the wrists. The cap is of a curious form, of the San-Benito kind; but this is not adorned with flames or demons, like that which designates the unfortunate victim of superstition. This is of yellow satin; next the hair is a slight ornament of silver, and at the edge, on the summit, are rouleaux in wavings of scarlet satin; from each side depend lappets of white gauze, beautifully painted in divers colours. The ear pendants are long and large, of plain gold. Muscovy boots, lined and trimmed round with fur; the boots of cerulean-blue satin, laced with scarlet, complete this costume: the hair is arranged a la Madonna, and is besides encircled by a blue fillet, with a large pearl, or a gold ornament in the centre.

These dresses of the merchant’s wives, were formerly loaded with gold and jewels; from the simplicity of the above, we are inclined to think the national costume is on the decline, except among the peasantry: it forms, however, a very pleasing attire for the fancy ball.


A dress of white cambric, with a deep muslin flounce, richly embroidered, over which is worn a cloak of beautifully striped Cachemire; the stripes crosswise, of figured lilac, on a light willow-green ground; the cloak lined throughout with green levantine. A large cape, terminating in points, falls over the shoulders. The bonnet is of black velvet, lined with pink, ornamented by scollops of velvet bound with pink and black ribbon; large bows of the same ribbon ornament the crown.


A pelisse of pink gros de Naples, fastening down the front of the skirt with large rosettes of the same. The corsage is half a la Roxelane, and the sleeves en gigot, confined at the wrists by very broad gold bracelets, fastened by an antique head. A collerette-pelerine of fine lace is worn over this pelisse, with a sautoir of lemon coloured ribbon, with hair-stripes of black. The hat is of black velvet, with a Chinese-crown of lemon-coloured sarcenet, surmounted by white marabouts. Under the brim of the hat is a bow of lemon-coloured ribbon, on each side; from whence depend strings of the same coloured ribbon, richly spotted at the edges with black velvet.


FIG. 1. – Double Beret-toque of white satin, beautifully painted with various-coloured flowers. A bird of paradise placed in front, between the divisions of the Beret. On the left side, over the ears, a fan and ends of ribbon, painted to correspond with the toque.

FIG. 2. – Back view of the same head-dress, all white.

FIG. 3. – Back view of a carriage hat of white satin, trimmed with pink and white ribbon, and ornamented with pink and white marabout feathers.

Plate the Second


A dress of black Smyrna, with a broad border of satin, beautifully embroidered in various colours, of natural flowers. The corsage a l’Enfant, with a pointed zone, embroidered to correspond with the border on the skirt. Short sleeves of black Smyrna, under those which are long, of crepe Aerophane, a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by bracelets of gold, fastened with white agate, or rubies. The hair arranged in Madonna braids, with clusters of short ringlets falling over half of them; the head-dress completed by a beret of black velvet, placed very much on one side; under the brim on the right, where the beret is elevated, is a feather of bright jonquil; where the beret is brought low over the left side of the throat, is another feather placed under the brim, of vermillion colour; this plays gracefully over the neck. The crown of this head-dress, which is very low, is ornamented with a full plumage of green, vermillion, and yellow feathers.


A pelisse of etherial blue satin, fastened down the front by languette straps, bound round by narrow rouleaux. The body made plain, and the sleeves en jigot, with a gauntlet cuff, fastened on the outside of the arm with straps, answering those which fasten the pelisse down the skirt. The pelisse has no collar, but is surmounted at the throat by a ruff of net, bouillone; under which is tied a long round tippet of the fur of the marten; these tippets are called by the French, Boas. The hat is of black velvet, trimmed with white blond, and white satin ribbon. A bandeau of this ribbon reaches from right to left, under the brim, at the extremity of which on the former side is a large rose of white satin ribbon. In front of the blond which ornaments the crown, is one rosette of white ribbon.


FIG. 1. Back view, half length, of a Walking Dress. – A pelisse of lavender gros de Naples, with a ruff of net, a la Bouffon, and round, long tippet, of marten-skin. Hat of black velvet, trimmed with white blond, and white satin ribbon.

FIG. 2. Back view of an Evening Costume. – Dress of Canary-yellow crape, with sleeves a la Mameluke. Beret of blue satin, ornamented with white Ostrich feathers

FIG. 3. Front and side view of a blond dress-cap, mixed with white satin. A wreath in front of full-blown roses and blue-bells. Lappets descending from each side, of very broad blond, of a rich pattern.

Plate the Third [Note – colours do not match the descriptions below]


A pelisse of sage-leaf green gros de Naples, lined with celestial-blue sarcenet. One very broad hem surrounds the border, headed by a double range of points, falling over each other. The body en gerbe, and confined round the waist by a belt of gros de Naples, with a full Rosette on the left side, in front, and two short ends. A French collar, with a narrow ruff of lace; and under the collar a painted sautoir-cravat of white silk. Bonnet of pomegranate red, lined with velvet, the colour of the Parma-violet: this bonnet is of a novel form, and so evasee, that it appears as if turned up all round in front. The bows which ornament it are of pomegranate velvet, and silk of Parma-violet. Strings of pomegranate-coloured ribbon float loose. The sleeves of the pelisse are moderately full, with cleft mancherons.


A dress of tulle; with a full bouillone ornament of the same, next to the feet, headed by bows of white satin of one loop and one end, on a narrow rouleau, which goes all round the skirt, as it surmounts the bouillone. At a distance from this, above a bias fold, is a row of leaves, in white satin. The corsage is a la Sevigne, with a splendid girandole brooch in the centre of the drapery across the bust, of jewellery and gold; the principal gems of which are turquoise stones. This drapery is fastened down on each shoulder with turquoise brooches, on a smaller scale. The sleeves are short and very full. The hair is arranged in full curls on each side of the face, and short at the ears. An open coronet-toque of blue crepe lisse, in puffs entwined with narrow black velvet, constitutes the head-dress: on the summit, on the right side, is an antique ornament of turquoises and wrought gold, with small gems of different colours, representing flowers grouped together, forming an ornament in front of the toque, on that part which crosses the forehead. Ear-pendants of turquoises and necklace of the same jewellery, set in large separate rosettes of one row.

N.B. A sitting figure presents a back view of this costume in rose-colour, with the addition of a boa tippet of marten-skin.


FIG. 1. Head and Bust of an Evening Costume. – A dress of celestial-blue satin; the body quite plain, with sleeves a la Marie. A chemisette-tucker of gaze-lisse, edged with blond draws over the front of the bust, and a double falling tucker of broad blond falls over, and surrounds the other part of the corsage, which is made low. Dress cap of fine rich blond, of a pointed pattern; the border turned up on each temple, with flowers of various kinds lying on the hair. The flowers, which are dispersed with much taste and elegance about the crown, are chiefly white; and the floating strings are of white satin. The ear-rings and necklace are of jasper.

FIG. 2. Side view of a head-dress in hair a la Greque; full curls next the face, and above a rolled braid of hair entwined with pearls. The fusee or antique portion of hair at the back of the head, consists of several curls; but which have not the ancient purple fillets: plats of hair supply that deficiency: and on the summit of the fusee is a large, full blown Provence rose with buds, and a small portion of green foliage.

FIG. 3. Front view of a head-dress similar to figure 2, except that it is more divided on the forehead, and is without the rolled braid: the hinder tresses are also brought forwarder on the summit of the head.

Plate the Fourth


A white satin dress bordered with unspotted ermine; the corsage made low, with a narrow cape en paladin, surrounded by small pearls. The body fits exactly to the cape, and is encircled round the waist by a girdle, formed of rows of pearls, with long ends a la Cordonniere, terminated by tassels, and depending as low as the border. The sleeves are a la Madis, with the fullness confined above the elbow by bands of narrow satin ribbon; the other part of the sleeve fits tight to the arm, till it reaches the wrist, where is a deep cuff of fluted satin, the points standing upwards from the wrist, and edged with blond: next the hand are narrow bracelets of pearls. The hair is arranged in full curls on each side of the face, and is crowned by a coronet of pearls, with a long veil of blond depending from the back of the head, and descending nearly as low as the heels. The ear-pendants are of valuable pear-pearls, en girandoles, and a negligee necklace is worn round the neck, to which is appended a convent cross, all of pearls. A Maltese order, or cross, of brilliants, is sustained by a ribbon of bright etherial blue, which is thrown across the bust. This costume is one of the most chaste, and elegant kind, which has been seen for a long time for full dress.


A dress of celestial-blue satin with double puffings of the same material, next the shoe, divided from each other, and formed by being fastened down with rings of satin. A flounce of broad white blond, set on rather scanty to shew the beauty of the pattern, surmounts these ornaments. The body is made with fichu robings, and an ornament en guimpe, in front of the bust, very wide, and trimmed round the edge with white blond: the bust is surrounded by a falling tucker of blond; and under the dress is a fichu of tulle, surmounted by a broad ruff of blond, divided in the centre, by a white satin rouleau. The sleeves are a la Marie, and are divided only in the centre of the thickest part of the arm. The head dress consists of a white satin hat with the brim turned up in front, and under the brim, on the right side, are two small drooping white feathers. The crown is adorned with a superb white plumage, which plays in the most elegant manner, over the crown and brim.


FIG.1, and 2. – Back and front view of a head-dress in hair; with a bandeau of wrought gold across the forehead. Bird of Paradise plume inclining to the right side. Sometimes a cameo is added in the centre of the bandeau.


Though, as our nobility and many other of the higher order of gentry, have protracted their stay so long in the country, that we cannot look for their enlivening presence in our metropolis, till after the Christmas recess, yet a kind of interesting bustle has taken place in many of the best quarters of this capital: numerous well appointed carriages are seen at the west end of the town; and the pedestrian begins to feel himself hurried in crossing the spacious street, called Waterloo Place. Before the door of MRS. BELL’S unrivalled Magasin de Modes, we observed en passant, a few days ago, three or four very elegant carriages; from the owners of these, we have since learned, that she has completed much toilet paraphernalia, to order; a few specimens of which we, from having been indulged in the inspection of, now lay before our readers.

The envelopes, of every kind, for out-door costume will continue much the same; but there is nothing deemed so elegant in this department, as a pelisse of black gros de Naples, finished round the border by a broad hem, in deep gothic points. The front, which closes imperceptibly, is ornamented with lozenge diamonds, between which are foliage trimmings, consisting of two square leaves. The sleeves are en gigot, and the body laid in small plaits, but tight to the shape, with a falling collar of black satin.

A very splendid dress of amber satin, has been made for an evening party: it is ornamented, next the shoe, with a bias rouleau of gauze, of the same colour as the dress. Commencing from nearly as high as the knee, is a broad trimming of black velvet, terminating in points; and from between each point depends a scroll ornament, which, together, form a kind of flounce; these are of amber gauze edged by rouleaux of black velvet and amber satin. The trimming of black velvet, ending in points, is surmounted by a ruche of black tulle. The body is made with a fichu ornament, finished in front, en guimpe, and is of amber gauze, edged with satin rouleaux and black blond. The sleeves are short, with long ones over them of crape Aerophane, and amber satin cuffs.

A dress of blue gros de Naples, for the evening, is in a more simple style; it is bordered by one deep flounce of gauze, the same colour as the dress, edged by blue satin rouleaux, and the flounce headed by bows and ends of blue gauze, edged with satin. Long, white transparent sleeves, a la Mameluke, finished by a narrow blue satin cuff, with a blue strap placed horizontally, and terminating by a button; the body a la Greque, and Persian drapery of blue crepe-Aerophane, edged with blue satin rouleaux, complete this dress.

A morning dress of cinnamon-brown silk is much admired; it is finished at the border by a broad hem, headed by rosettes, placed close together; the body is half a la Roxelane; with a zone pointed above and below, and incircling that part of the waist, which is plain, and fitting close to the shape. The sleeves are en gigot.

A new kind of dress, named a l’Elizabeth, is in favour for evening parties; it is of black satin, and is trimmed at the border precisely in the same way as the amber dress, above described, all in black. The body is made en Polonaise, with fichu robings at the back and front, finished by points of black velvet. The sleeves are a la Marie, and are of white crepe-lisse.

An elegant ball dress for Christmas Festivals, is of vermillion-coloured crepe-Aerophane, with a broad bouillone ornament round the border, of the same colour in tulle; this is crossed in a bias direction, by double rouleax of vermillion and yellow satin; the bouillion is headed by full ornaments, placed en fers de Cheval, of crepe-Aerophane, bound round with satin, and in the interstices is a Geulder-Rose, of fancy colours, half vermillion, half yellow, with green foliage. The body is a l’Enfant, with Circassian drapery in front, confined by a belt, in Mosaic, on which are Chinese figures, beautifully executed. The short sleeves of vermillion-coloured satin, are covered by those which are long, of crepe-Aerophane, a la Mameluke: these are the colour of the dress and are finished at the wrist by a narrow cuff and strap in satin.

A novel kind of carriage bonnet, as to the material, is of black satin figured, in a small pattern of beautifully varied colours. It is trimmed with canary-yellow satin ribbon, with edges of black, in a design a la Grecque. A broad ornament of black blond hangs in drapery over the bows, on the crown, and terminates behind on the left side. A bonnet of plain black satin, trimmed in this way, is much admired for its peculiar elegance. Another carriage bonnet is of plush, in Egyptian plaid; it is trimmed with broad velvet ribbon, puce-colour, edged with amber, spotted with puce, with strings of the same, in a loop, and ornamented round the crown with tips of white Marabout feathers.

Caps a la Paon, and a la Psyche, constitute the most favourite head-dresses; the former has the Paon ornament in front, of splendid blond and very narrow pink satin rouleaux, under which is the stiffening, which keeps the Aureole, so formed, in shape; this cap is tastefully, but slightly ornamented with white gauze, striped ribbon, and in front next the hair, with full blown roses: the caul is of tulle, finished by pink and white satin ribbon, a la Grecque. A Psyche cap of tulle and very broad blond, of a most superb pattern, is intitled to a high degree of admiration; it is ornamented across the front with a half wreath of Damask-roses, and those of Jericho, in full bloom; and the same flowers cross the crown, behind; the strings are of white gauze ribbon, finished at the edges by a border, in a Greek pattern. Another cap of this kind, but rather smaller dimensions, has strings of two different colours, which float loose; and the half wreaths of flowers are composed of half opening red and white roses: the blond is of a pointed pattern, and one string is white, the other pink. A white coronet toque made entirely of feathers, is an elegant coiffure, for full dress; the plumage most admired is white, of the Ostrich kind, tipped with amber; or the feather half amber, half white, called by the French plumes boiteuses. The Vienna toques, are still in favour; but they are not improved by the lengthening of the puffs, which has taken place: these puffs are formed of white satin, and tulle of a bright Geranium colour.

Net ruffs, a la Bouffon, are much in request in half dress; they have the becoming lightness of blond, and more durability.

The new sautoir cravats, are extremely elegant, more so than those which were painted in various colours, notwithstanding the beauty of these last mentioned. Those which are worn over dress pelisses, or at the Opera, are of white satin, brocaded all over, in a kind of chain of butterflies, if we may be allowed the term; their colours are varied, but very light, chaste and delicate. These cravats are bound with an entwined rouleau of jonquil and vermillion coloured satin.

The most fashionable colours are amber, etherial-blue, jonquil, vermillion, and pink.


HATS AND BONNETS. – Feathers are seen on hats at the Institute and other meetings, where a certain style of dress is required: they are taught to wave gracefully; and a hat, on a late occasion, of this kind, was greatly admired, of violet-coloured velvet, with yellow plumage. A black velvet hat had a long willow feather of rose-colour. A Mazaniello {*Vide the Number of the Gentleman’s Magazine representing a Neapolitan Costume. The Conti de las Torres.} hat was ornamented with a Russian plume, half brown, half pink. Several hats have appeared of black satin; these are ornamented on one side by a long black willow feather. When flowers are worn in hats, they are small, with green foliage.

On the summit of the crowns of some hats is fixed a rosette of black velvet, of four puffs: one of the ends of this rosette is passed behind the other in front, and both meet on the left side, where they form another bow. A hat of gros des Indes, of pomegranate-red, is lined with white satin, and ornamented with two white Esprits or two Heorns’ feathers. Some fashionists lay ribbons on the brims and crowns of satin hats, at equal distances, so that they appear as if they were striped. Very often hats are seen of pomegranate-red plush, lined with striped velvet of various colours.

Feathers of the weeping willow kind are still the mode. Hats of black velvet, or satin, have two or three plumes of five black ostrich feathers. They are all on one stalk, and are very full, but not curled, though they have not the least appearance of flat feathers. Velvet hats, the colour of the Parma-ciolet, are some of them lined with satin of the same tint, others with white, but they are reckoned most elegant when bound with velvet; their sole ornament consists in two large puffs of velvet, separated in the middle by a brooch or a buckle of gold; some of these buckles represent a cypher or a single letter: this fashion, however, is likely to be only the fancy of a day. The hats are placed very backward, yet the crowns are so shallow that a part of the nape of the neck is discovered. A broad blond round a hat of purple or green velvet has an excellent effect. In deshabille, bonnets of satin are much worn; one of white satin has been much admired, lined with rose-colour, and surrounded by a blond, worth one hundred and fifty franks the ell.

Satin hats are worn in almost every style of dress. Those of gros des Indes, or of plain velvet, have the brims large and flat; but when feathers are worn with these hats, the brim is turned up slightly on the right side. A hat of yellow satin has been seen, the brim of which, both above and underneath, was bordered with branches of the palm, embroidered in ponceau silk. The same kind of wotk ornamented a broad band which surrounded the crown, on which bands were placed rosettes of yellow and ponceau satin.

Several hats of satin, the colour of Navarin-smoke, are lined with black velvet, and ornamented with very broad satin ribbon. There is often seen, on velvet hats, an ornament consisting of two planes disposed in a V, tied together by a rose-coloured ribbon with black stripes: two ends depend, from the rosette, which are brought round, form another bow bekind.

There are some yellow satin hats, ornamented with black and yellow feathers; the crown is trimmed round with languettes, edged with black blond, and the edge of the brim is also surrounded by black blond.

Round the crowns of several hats of gros de Naples, gros des Indes, or satin, are placed three or four crescents, with the points upwards. In the centre of each crescent is a rosette of satin ribbon. The hats of plain velvet have very broad and flat brims; they are worn without strings. The summit of the crown is sometimes ornamented with a white satin ribbon, twisted: on the right side are curled white feathers, tied together. Hats of satin, of bright colours, are ornamented at the edges with white blond. A hat of rose-coloured satin has been seen ornamented with two branches of white Valerian, forming clusters like those of the lilac blossoms, a third branch, the blossoms of which are supposed to have fallen off, discover only small berries.

OUT-DOOR COSTUME. – Boas are universal, pelerines of fur are but little worn.

The silk pelisses are all terminated by a broad hem round the border of the skirt. In front they are ornamented by rosettes of satin, in the centre of which is a small button or a buckle. There are some pelisses of figured poplin, closed down the front by Brandenburghs: they have two pelerine-capes, edged round with fringe, and the collar surmounted by a ruff of blond.

Witzcharras are again in favour this winter; those which are not lined with fur have shag-silk. On others, very broad bands of fur ornament the outside; the sleeves are so wide that ladies make use of them as a muff. There are some cloaks of Cachemire, extremely elegant, embroidered round with black, with three capes, full, Greek sleeves, and lined throughout with black velvet.

A pelisse of satin, the colour of the bird-of-paradise, surrounded by two rows of marten-skin, is very elegant.

Spotted poplin is a favourite material for pelisses; most of those for the deshabille promenade being made of that material; they fasten by satin straps or bows, with buckles or crescents of gold: sometimes these fastenings represent four leaves, trimmed round with narrow blond, and such are furnished in the centre by a Gothic clasp.

DRESSES. – Having confided to every rational female, both of Paris and the different provinces, the secret of the corsets having epaulettes that are put on and off at pleasure, we may be believed in speaking of the velvet dresses of pomegranate-red, cherry-colour, and emerald-green, which, at the benefit of an eminent musician’s wife, appeared to be falling off. There were some ladies, however, who wore the epaulettes mobiles; but, being worn without necklaces, the dresses appeared yet more off the shoulders, by the neck being entirely bare.

Spotted poplins, of pomegranate-red, are very fashionable, as are those of lapis-blue. The corsages are pointed, and the sleeves a la Marie. One deep flounce, or two, narrower, is the favourite manner of bordering these dresses. Some poplin dresses are of a ponceau colour, and are trimmed with flounces of white blond. The corsages of these dresses are often square. There is a new material fabricated at Lyons, for dresses, with broad satin stripes. They are bordered with two flounces edged with narrow blond; the corsage a la Sevigne, fastened in the front with a pin of precious stones.

Amongst the various dresses which appear at the public spectacles, several are seen of white muslin, with very wide sleeves. A white dress of Organdy, also, with a corsage of rose-coloured satin, pointed, and a waist encircled by a friar’s belt of the same colour. Dresses of pink Palmyrene, with black velvet boddice, are much admired: five points of velvet form epaulettes over the sleeves. Several dresses are of satin, the colour of the Parma-violet, green, or cerise, with the corsages disposed in the drapery, and the sleeves, a la Mameluke or a la Marie, in crepe-lisse, or in Aerophane. Others of spotted poplin, painted gros de Naples, or Indian brocade: but the most distinguished evening dresses are of Ispaphan satin, with wrapping drapery across the bust, and a double falling tucker of broad blond, which forms a pelerine over the back and shoulders. White Cachemire dresses, ornamented with gold, are prevalent; and one has been seen of blue, trimmed with a Greek border, in silver embroidery. A lady was lately seen at the theatre, in a dress of black velvet, with an enormous ruff of blond, and four gold bracelets, one of which was Gothic, enamelled in several colours: another was a la Cleopatra, a serpent, with the eyes formed of rubies; the third was composed of antique Cameos, and the fourth one was called “the slavery of the heart.” This was a galley-slave chain, with a padlock the shape of a heart, from which was a very little chain, that was fastened to the ring on the wedding finger. A dress has appeared on a young married lady, of white muslin, striped with gold; above the broad hem, which surrounded the border, fell a fringe of gold. Dresses of ponceau poplin, with two flounces of blond, set on in festoons, are much admired, and appropriate to winter. The corsage is square. The new white Lyonese stuff, in imitation of Cachemire, is much in request for dresses; it has broad stripes of brocaded satin. Two flounces, edged with narrow blond, generally form the border. The corsage is a la Sevigne, and in the centre of the drapery is a diamond pin.

Many ladies of fashion fasten a hook to their sash, to which is suspended, by a chain, a gold smelling bottle.

Though the corsets of women of fashion have a large busk of whalebone or steel, the dress-makers always introduce in those corsages, which are made with a point, a thin and narrow piece of whalebone, to prevent the corsage from forming creases; thence they obtained the name of a corsage busque.

When a fashionable lady puts on a dress, the corsage of which is not pointed, she has a belt which buckles and laces behind, in which is a whalebone, or a steel spring, placed under the lining, which prevents the point from turning upl

From the suppleness of Bombazin, two flounces generally finish the border of dresses which are made of that material: they are embroidered and set on in festoons. When a dress is of stuff, one broad hem only is worn next the shoe, and that is hemmed underneath, as formerly. Several dresses of black satin have been seen with black velvet pelerines, trimmed round with broad black blond, set on full. Dresses of English-green poplin have appeared, with a border of sable.

A dress is much admired of satin, the colour of the Parma-violet, with a plain corsage en Guimpe, and laced behind. It is bordered half-way up the skirt with Chinchilla, with a pelerine of the same.

Ball dresses are of crepe-Aerophane, the favourite colour, blue. Above a broad bias fold is an embroidery in white silk: the corsage is a la Grecque, with short sleeves. A sash of white satin, tied in front on the left side, in which is fixed a bouquet of blue and white flowers; the ends of the sash fall as low as the knees.

A dress 0f gaze-lisse, bordered with a broad hem, and five narrow rouleaux of satin, in rose-colour, with the corsage a la Marie Stuart, the base of the waist trimmed round with narrow blond, is much admired; the sleeves are short, and of crape, striped with narrow rouleaux of satin, the same as those on the border of the skirt; the sleeves are terminated by a narrow blond ruffle. A dress of marabout gauze is very elegant, trimmed with three rows of white satin cut in points, edged with blond; these points are put on falling down, flounce-wise. The same kind of trimming, in satin, surrounds the bust, and falls over the corsage very gracefully. It is expected, that at winter balls, black velvet boddices will be much in request, with white or coloured crape dresses. Well-made ladies know how this fashion sets off a fine shape.

Among the ball-dresses has been remarked one of rose-coloured crepe Aerophane, on which were painted, over the bias, vine-leaves.: the corsage was trimmed to correspond, and five vine-leaves formed the epaulettes on each shoulder.

Some mourning dresses, mingled among those of fancy, cause a pleasing contrast in different assemblies; rose-colour, white and blues, are seen with black. Several dresses of black velvet, have girdles worn with then of jet. Black crape dresses, in deep morning, are trimmed with satin. Fringes are often placed over the broad hem at the borders of dresses. Some of the figured poplin dresses appear as if they were embroidered: the favourite pattern is in stripes, representing the leaves of the almond tree, the willow, or the myrtle. Their trimming consists of two flounces with heads to them, and each edged by an open ornament formed of braiding. The same braiding is seen on the corsage, on the mancherons, and on the cuffs. The belt is buckled behind, and pointed in front; and to this point is suspended a friars belt, formed with three large plaits of braiding; the ends descending as low as the feet.

HEAD-DRESSES. – There is no head-dress more becoming than the Spanish toques now worn. It may be styled a truly bewitching coiffeure. Berets, also, of black velvet, ornamented with white feathers, recall to mind the time of Francis I. The lofty plume, on one side of the brim, has that originality, that refinement of coquetry, which we are taught to expect existed in a court, famed for its love for the sex, and its patronage of literature. Many ladies wear in their hair flowers in bouquets, placed between the puffs of hair, others, flowers in wreaths, brought rather low on the forehead; several prefer bandeaux of gold, cameos, or precious stones, which support aigrettes, en esprit, or a bird of paradise, fastened on one side of the head, and inclining towards the other. The hair is now arranged in that style which forms a happy medium between that towering elevation, and the Greek head-dress; however, the hair is less crossed over the temples, and is brought low on each cheek. Rose-coloured and white berets, but more especially black, are numerous; they are all of velvet, and are ornamented with white feathers; some are adorned with gold lace and buttons, are placed backwards and very much on one side, in order to display a bandeau of gold or pearls, which crosses the forehead; several of these bandeaux are clasped in front by an antique or diamond brooch. There are some berets, also, of white satin, which are ornamented with aigrettes or esprits of gold; they have two strings of ribbon, terminated each by a rosette; these cross over the beret, and fall down on the opposite side. Several diamond combs are ornamented in the diadem style, and there are head-dresses formed of gold aigrettes. Ribbons of Greek blue are often entwined among the tresses, when the hair is arranged in the Grecian style. Dress hats are often of black velvet, with two long white feathers, fastened in front by a bow of ribbon. Dress hats of rose-coloured satin have a plume of seven white flat feathers; the lappets, which float loose, are very broad. Diamonds, cameos, pearls, and various coloured gems, ornament the hair in full dress; of the latter, arrows are made, and are stuck tastefully in the hair. Ladies, who are continually changing their fashions, are often seen with strings of pearls wound round their hair, one of which crosses the forehead, en bandeau, and is fastened in the centre with a diamond brooch; the next evening perhaps, the same whimsical lady is seen with seven or eight ears of corn, all of diamonds, grouped together, and fastened on the left side of her head. Marabouts are favourite ornaments on toques and berets. Head-dresses of white feathers prevail much; amongst these an esprit is introduced; and sometimes is seen on one side of the head, a row of little feathers, of various colours, with some all white.

A new material for dress hats, promises to be in high favour in the ashionable world; it is composed of silk, silver, and small beads, beautifully interwoven together, and forming a net work; richness and lightness combine togtehr to render this article the most elegant and graceful of all the late inventions for the female toilet.

Some berets of gauffreed crape are very whimsical in appearance; their caul is round, to which is attached a square band, which is twisted and turned all manner of ways, while the extremities are brought up, to stand in contrary directions.

Berets of white crape are seen at evening dress parties, ornamented with seven white feathers, tipped with the colour of the corsage or the robe which is worn. Caps are much in favour, but they cannot now be called small dress caps. They are covered with roses, daisies, sweet peas, heart’s ease, and auriculus. They are worn by women of high fashion, and when seen at the theatre, always seem to announce that the wearer comes in her own carriage.

Some berets, formed of two differently coloured velvets, such as black and ponceau, are rounded off at the left, and represent an angle at the right. Other berets are oval on one side and square on the other; there are generally placed over them two birds of paradise, crossed like an X. On some flat berets of black velvet, there are variegated roses, black and rose-colour. Several berets are ornamented with aigrettes and white crosses. One has been seen of red Cachemere gauze, embroidered with gold, ornamented with two branches of heath, the leaves in gold, the blossoms of a beautiful vermillion.

On head-dresses in hair, small flowers are the most prevailing ornaments. Coronets, formed of jet beads, coronet toques of jay’s feathers, mingled with gold flowers, form the most elegant coiffeures for full dress. There are also seen marabouts placed among the tresses, and on white berets. Some very pretty berets have appeared, entirely of blond, adorned with flowers. A lady in mourning was lately seen with a beret of tulle, embroidered with black bugles, and two black aigrettes, formed of heron’s feathers, disposed like those of the bird of paradise.

JEWELLERY. – The new ear-pendants are very appropriately named Turkish ear-rings; they have three balls of plain, or enamelled gold, suspended to a half moon, and to every ball is hung a ring, or tuft of feathers, from some very rare bird.

The ingenuity of friendship, of the adroitness of love, has invented a new kind of ring, on which are hieroglyphic characters, traced in gold, on an azure ground, forming one of those words which can be only understood by the giver and the receiver. The learned antiquarian cannot explain their origin; it is the imagination and the heart which can alone comprehend them. These are called Egyptian rings, and on some there are really Egyptian characters, and even Hebrew; very little Greek – Greek is now too generally understoon.

All that is now revived in the title of Chatelaine, belongs to the female toilet; it consists in a bijou composed of various articles, and fastened together by a large chain of gold, which is fixed to the sash by a hook. A buckle, or a button falls over the skirt of the dress, to about a quarter of its length. The objects which terminate it are a very pretty gold key, the head of which is ornamented with turquoises, or differently coloured stones, a Gothic smelling bottle, in wrought gold, and some other little fancy ornaments. These Chatelaines are worn in half dress, and are become a very expensive article in jewellery.

MISCELLANEOUS. – A bright blue, named Navarin blue, is much in favour for dresses and pelisses, hats, bonnets, ribbons, flowers, and feathers. There are dresses with this coloured ground, worked with embroidery, in poplin, merino and Cachemire.

A grand piano-forte, placed in a drawing-room or a bed-chamber, is always covered with a kind of carpet, consisting of Cachemere, on which are arabesque characters of two different patterns, and some architecture; sometimes this colour is of embroidered merino, and sometimes plain Cachemire, ornamented with a rosace at every corner.

Fashion turns round and round the same circle. They now begin again to use knives with hollow handles of silver, the same as those seen fifty years ago; and, what is still more old fashioned, pheasants are not trussed like other birds, but are served up with their heads and tails on.

Several young females are preparing to appear at the different dancing assemblies, this winter, with plain stockings of flesh-coloured silk, and with checquered satin shoes, white and rose-colour, or Cerise and Navarin-blue. The ribbons which cross the ancle are never to be white.

At full dress balls, white silk open-lace stockings will be worn.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to February 1829

Back to …

Newest London and Paris Fashions for February 1825

Evening Dress, Invented by Mrs Bell of 32 St James’s Street, Engraved exclusively for the World of Fashion


A dress of rose-coloured gros de Naples, trimmed at the border with full and long puffings, in two distinct rows; the puffs are fluted, which imparts a richness to this novel kind of ornament. The body fits close to the shape, and is ornamented lengthwise, down the bust, with rouleaux of satin, dividing en gerbe, and brought together in a point under the belt. The sleeves fit nearly close to the arm, and are surmounted by very full but plain mancherons; at the wrists are worn broad gold bracelets, fastened with a cameo. A very narrow tucker of Vandyke blond surrounds the bust. The head-dress consists of a full dress cap, in the form of a fichu, of tulle and blond, brought in a point on the forehead, and the hair, which is arranged in very full curls, is ornamented on the right side, with one large, full-blown Provence rose, with its foliage; and, in front of the cap, is another rose, placed rather backward, yet entirely seen in front.

Ball Dress, Invented by Mrs Bell, 32, St James’s Street, Engraved exclusively for the World of Fashion


Over a white satin slip, a beautiful dress of gauze, of a shot lavender colour; the colour formed of grey lilac and pink intermingled, which combination imparts the most delightful gleam, that is particularly attractive by candle-light. The border of the gauze dress is ornamented on the hem, with a rich rouleau of amethyst-coloured satin, indented in diamonds; an ornament perfectly novel, and well deserving the attention of Ladies of taste and elegance. Over this are three rouleaux of satin of the same brilliant purple, set on in festoons: the points confined by full bouquets of yellow china-astres, without foliage. The corsage is plain, but is finished round the bust and at the back, with the same gauze as the dress bouillone and the fulness confined by rouleaux of amethyst-coloured satin. The sleeves are short, full, and bouillones; the puckerings confined in bias, by rouleaux of amethyst satin. A sash of the same chaste and lovely colour encircles the waist, with a handsome rosette behind the short ends. The hair is arranged very high, on the summit of the head, and the loftier part brought rather forwarder than usual. The full curls on each side of the face are brought nearly as low as the tip of the ear; the rest of the tresses are disposed in braids and bands, intermixed with gold chain-work, finely wrought, and yellow china-astres.


The lengthened light of day is now become visible, and the fashionable morning airings in Hyde Park, have commenced: from three to half past four, when the weather is propitious, we behold the gay and elegant throngs pass, in brilliant succession, exhibiting all that attraction which is inherent in their fair forms, by the aids of invention and …

There has been but little alteration in the … of bonnets, or in the style of their ornament, except that those made exclusively for the … especially for the morning visits of ceremony are of smaller dimensions than those which are … appropriated to carriage airings or the promenade. One of these tasteful dress bonnets, which is peculiarly deserving of admiration was of … coloured velvet, crowned with blush roses, and … plumes of the tropic bird, which feathers seemed to issue from the roses, and played gracefully over the front, and a part of the brim. We have seen a black velvet bonnet, worn by a lady of fashion, in the ancient cottage form, and so becoming, that we are pleased to see …

The out-door coverings for the head, are not much thought of during the time that … glories are chiefly exhibited by candle-light: … carriages are still closed, and the hours devoted to shopping and snatching a few fleeting … of day, in leading the younger branches of … through what morning lounges are at present open, give but little scope for the display of that … which constitutes the most modish for the … department. The head dresses, however, … time of the day, and every style of dress … beautiful; for the morning deshabille, the cornette is of a richly figured blond, finished at … in points a la Vandyck, next to the face, and … about the head piece, with numerous little … figured ribbonl the ground yellow, spotted at the edge with scarlet: the dejeune cornette, … Mechlin, and often of Urling’s lace, and is … with shaded striped ribbon; the colours, … lemon colour, jonquil and orange. The cornette for receiving dinner parties is often of blond, of a Vandyck pattern, ornamented with detached bouquets of various kinds of flower … theatre cornette has the appearance of a turban, were it not for its very long lappets, which are generally fastened under the chin: they are of pink gauze, in bias folds, and is charmingly … with flowers; in front is a delicate … the Catalonian jessamine; and on the … on each side are lillies of the valley or … wall flowers: on the hair, on each side, rests a flower, one a simple Indian rose … foliage, on the other a bunch of pink … the hair well arranged, and much taste in the … it on, is required with this head dress, … it appropriate for the evening. A coro… for full dress parties, is a very elegant coiffure, formed of white satin and rows of pearls; the … or circlet part is mural, and the indentings, which are bent downwards, are edged round with pearls and from each dependant square, hangs a small pear pearl, which has a most unique and splendid effect: small white feathers float over the front of this superb head dress. A black velvet dress hat, is also admired for evening parties, ornamented with gold cordon, and acorn tassels; this is crowned with a magnificent plume of white ostrich feathers. A Russian cap of black velvet also, enriched with pearls, or with gold cordon, with a full plume of pink feathers is much in favour.

Among the coloured chintzes now so prevalent for morning costume, we cannot forbear citing one, which we found peculiarly striking; the pattern being the most beautiful we have ever yet seen; and so disposed, as to have that effect on the texture, that it is almost impossible, except by the touch, to distinguish it from a French silk: the ground is a pale yellow, and the figures consist of narrow stripes in waves of a straw’s breadth, and about an inch and a half distant from each other; these are of massacca brown; between these stripes are shaded spots, about the size of a shilling, very close to each other, of purple and scarlet, lightly sprinkled over with shagreen spots, so small, that they are scarce visible, but on a close inspection; but they add much to the softening of the shades; and, at a distance, the pattern has the appearance of a fancy plaid. This dress is made high, en demi blouse, and the sleeves fit close to the arm: the border of the skirt is trimmed with nine very narrow flounces, set close together, but distinct. A high dress of scarlet, real cachemire, is a favourite gown for home costume: it is trimmed with gros de Naples, and satin of the same colour: two pointed flounces, reversed, of gros de Naples, the points edged with silk cordon ornament the border. The corsage is bounillone, in front, and the puckerings confined by satin straps across: the mancherons quartered like a melon, in alternate divisions of cachemire and satin: round the throat is an ornament of double points, which forms a kind of collar, and corresponds with the trimmings at the border of the skirt, being of gros de Naples, and finished with silk cordon, in a similar manner. A Bavarian robe of puce-coloured gros de Naples, delicately sprigged, is also a half dress that has been much approved; the tablier part is improved by an elegant finish to the satin straps that confine its slight puckering; the straps being terminated by short fringe tassels: the corsage is made partially high, and is formed almost entirely of folds of satin, very little of the gros de Naples appearing between. The sleeves are of the same material as the robe, made full, but confined at equal distances, all the way from the wrist to the shoulder, with very narrow bands of satin. An evening dress of striped gauze, just completed for a lady of distinction, lately fell under our notice, which is a beautiful specimen of taste, and well adapted to the season, by the charming glow of its colours, and the elegant style of its make. The ground is of a bright geranium colour, with stripes of shaded satin, orange-tawney and jonquil. Over the hem is a broad, full rouleau of jonquil satin, above which are large puffs, in festoons, of buffont drapery, of ponceau and jonquil gauze; each puff, which is very long, being brought together, of the two different colours, and confined by rings of fluted jonquil satin; the corsage fastens behind, and is made a la Vierge, except that a drapery folds across the bust, and ornaments the sleeves, to correspond with that on the petticoat.

Pelisses of velvet and gros de Naples, the former trimmed with the most costly furs, in various ingenious patterns are still in high request; it is wonderful to see the figures in which it is disposed, but we sincerely wish the furriers had not destroyed the genuine beauty of their valuable furs by mingling them in the fanciful way they have done this season. To the dress-maker who forms foliage and flowers, from the glossy black lynx, the chaste and lovely brown of the unmixed sable, the silvery grey of the American squirrel, and the uncontaminated ermine, every praise is due for the novel idea. But, we trust the furriers will leave off the regular patch-work of white diamonds in the grey squirrel, or black waves on the little zibeline, making that truly valuable skin to have something the appearance of that of the Norway rat.

At a ball given at a gentleman’s country house a few miles from London, a very short time ago, were seen some very superb as well as tasteful dresses that wee equally admirable for their elegant simplicity; and before we dismiss the subject of fashionable intelligence, we shall mention two or three that most struck us, and which promise most likely to be exclusively adopted by the higher classes. Par excellence, we first mention a tunic robe of amaranthine velvet, trimmed with broad white blond, of a most superb pattern: the petticoat which the robe partially discovered in front was a white satin, richly trimmed with flounces of blond. The hair, elegantly arranged, was ornamented with a diadem of brilliants; behind which was the favourite little neglige fichu, now so much the rage, scattered over, at the back part with roses of paradise. The body of the dress, according to the present mode, was the same as the skirt, but being diversified by a white satin stomacher and a falling tucker of blond, it had not the least heaviness in appearance; and the tunic robes, which are now very fashionable, are well adapted to velvet, which, especially at balls, looks better in such fancy dresses, than in those that are round. The other velvet dress was also a tunic robe with a white satin petticoat; the velvet dress was black, splendidly trimmed with gold cordon in Vandyck points with tassels and fringe; and the sleeves, which were long, were finished at the wrists with Vandyck points of exquisitely fine white lace, in the old English style; an ornament of which fell over the bust, which was beautifully relieved by the above-mentioned lace, and by a white satin stomacher. Amongst the hair were entwined pearls and white roses, in the most elegant and tasteful manner, though, seemingly,

“Wild, without rule or art.”

Though we do not admire black for the ball room, yet this last-mentioned dress, with one of fine black tulle attracted universal admiration, especially as we were given to understand that the two ladies were in the last stage of mourning. The black tulle dress was an Arcadian robe over satin, and was richly trimmed in bias folds of satin, as high as the knee, which were disposed in tasteful wavings, and scattered over with roses; this caused the most charming effect, when the robe was partially looped up, by the roses appearing as if they ornamented the petticoat of satin worn underneath. Pearl combs and roses adorned the hair. The young persons had, many of them, clear muslin dresses of fine India Bocca, over white satin or gros de Naples; indeed the very, young were all in white: gauze or of figured tulle: where the robe was of this form, a few simple flowers, to keep up the classical costume of Arcadia, were scattered among the tresses, but many young ladies had no other ornaments on their heads, but their own fine hair, beautifully arranged, and gave proof of the attractions belonging to youth’s early bloom;-

“Unadorn’d, adorn’d the most.”

We were just about closing our observations, when we had the advantage of inspecting a beautiful carriage pelisse, just completed for a lady who ranks high in fashionable life. The pelisse is of blush-red gros de Naples lined with a rich white sarcenet, and trimmed at the hem with a double rouleau; down the sides of the skirt, in front, and representing plumage, beautifully embossed, and formed of such narrow rouleaux, that it appears light, as well as costly. The collar is half falling, scalloped at the edge, and elegantly ornamented with chain-work of narrow rouleaux. The sleeves are peculiarly novel and elegant; they are only of a moderate width, yet without mancherons, and are finished down the outside of the arm, from the shoulders to the wrist, with united diamonds, ingeniously formed of chains of narrow rouleaux; and the seams of the body are ornamented in a correspondent manner.

The favourite colours are jonquil, pink, scarlet, orange-tawney, amaranth, and massacca brown.


SEVERAL ladies wear at balls, black crape dresses sprinkled all over with bugles: others have a slight embroidery at the border in polished steel. Black dresses are most elegant among women of fashion, with which, at the Opera Buffa, have been seen white hats and those of rose colour.

Pelerines have been invented, made of marabout feathers, these have a very distinguished appearance.

Turbans are of gauze with the crowns of velvet; they are more in vogue than ever: on toques are placed two aigrettes; one near the ear, which falls over the neck.

Hats of black velvet or satin, have succeeded to those of gros de Naples; the brim flies off the face; the trimming them with bows of the same material as the hat, yet continues.

Wreaths of flowers are the sole ornaments on the hair of young ladies. At the public spectacles has appeared a new head-dress, called a beret: at evening parties, toques and turbans are preferred.

On several hats is seen so broad a blond at the edge, that it forms a demi-veil, this blond, however, should not be more than a hand’s breadth.

The disposal of marabouts and other feathers is decisive of the manner most proper for the toques or berets. At the opera a lady was seen with the beret covered entirely on one side by a plume of marabouts, the end of every feather standing upright: the other part of the beret, which was black velvet was quite uncovered.

Half dress gowns are trimmed with fur; some are trimmed down each side, like an open pelisse, the ends of these two rows of fur are lost in the upper border that surrounds the skirt.

At the concert given in the rue de Clery, for the benefit of an Italian artist’s widow, there was, among several other very remarkable head-dresses, a velvet toque, which was ornamented with three rosettes of velvet, and twelve marabouts, four between each rosette. Several toques of black crape were sprinkled with stars, others were covered with a net-work in bugles, and most of them ornamented with three flat feathers. On small dress caps, made very flat on the head, were seen the flowers called snow-balls, on others marabouts, placed arch-wise, the ends being bent together, so as to form a kind of bower. Young persons wore only their own hair, or a hat of white pluche de soie, ornamented with satin rosettes. Moabitish toques of rose coloured satin, fasten under the chin. Some velvet dress hats are ornamented with gold.

Turbans and toques are confined to every day wear, or to the public spectacles – for a ball or concert, ladies of fashion have their turbans, their flowers or their feathers … by the hands of the hair-dresser. At balls, and at social parties, wreaths of gold or silver, are often mingled in the hair, and entwined among gauze or velvet. … also, made of different coloured gems, are a favourite … dress for young ladies.

Deshabille hats are of dark colours, and are trimmed at the edge of the brim with a broad blond: the crowns are … trimmed with satin rosettes, and often with those … pluche de soie. There are many white hats now to … they are fastened with two strings of crape, with … at each ear: underneath the hat is a half wreath … flowers.

Several dress gowns are of white barege, grey, … they are trimmed with folds of satin, and three … chenille.

Some maltese collars are of organdy, or of clear muslin, made very stff, they are embroidered with black, in … stitch.

For ball dresses, young persons wear blouse-robes of Organdy, embroidered with black crewel: these embroidered … fill up the spaces between broad bias folds.

On those days, when the weather has been less … it has been for some time, some fashionable ladies have been remarked walking in the Thuilleries. They were in pelisses of velvet, either black, violet, or dark green, they were trimmed with chinchilla or black marten; with long … of the same fur, which covered the back, and with … broad over the shoulders: these pelerine tippets were … with gold claws, or with two hands united.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

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Newest London and Paris Fashions for January 1825

Evening Dress, Invented by Mrs Bell, 32 St James’s Street, Engraved exclusively for World of Fashion


DRESS of blush coloured satin, finished next the hem with a fluted trimming of the same material; this ornament is of an entire new construction, and does infinite honour to the taste of the inventress; the flutings being thrown out in that elegant way, that gives a fulness to the border, while it has, at the same time, an indescribable grace and lightness; over this truly unique ornament is a broad festooned flounce of white blond, of a pattern the most exquisite; which flounce is surmounted by a row of blush colour satin foliage, each leaf edged with very narrow blond edging. The corsage is made quite plain, and fastened by a simple belt; under which is concealed a small watch, the pearl tassel belonging to the chain only appearing in sight. A falling ornament of blond surrounds the tucker part of the corsage, surmounted by a row of foliage, in miniature, like that over the flounce: the sleeves are short and full, and are trimmed with pink satin and blond, to correspond with the other embellishments of the dress. The hair is arranged in the last new style, in clusters of curls, a few of which, instead of being separated as formerly, on the forehead, descend in rather a point in that vacancy; but not so low as to obscure or disfigure the beauty of the eyebrow. A plumage of white feathers, edged and tipped with pink, are disposed in that ingenious and charming manner, that they form, in themselves, a kind of coronet toque, while a few on the right side play gracefully, in zephyr-like lightness. The engraving represents a slight innovation from full dress, sometimes resorted to, of tulle lappets being tied carelessly under the chin, terminated by pearl tassels.

Dinner Dress, Invented by Mrs Bell, 32 St James’s Street, Engraved exclusively for the World of Fashion


Dress of gros de Naples, or gauze, the colour of the pomegranate rind, trimmed at the border with a broad puckering of crape or gauze, scattered over with trefoil ornaments of satin, of a darker shade, and surmounted by three rouleaux of satin, caught up in a festoon in front, with full rosettes. The sleeves short and very full; the fulness confined by satin bands, downwards; double falling ornament of white blond, with divisions made by satin bands, that impart a graceful novelty to this kind of ornament. The hair arranged a la Suisse, with a superb diadem ornament in front, of large pearls. The Swiss bodkins represented by Glauvina pins, headed with rubies. Ruby necklace, set a l’antique, with pendant drops. The shoes of white satin, and white kid gloves.


The sports of the field, during a season remarkably humid, have lost much of their wonted attraction, and numerous families of high … are seen in London, or are emerging from the … seats, to the more diversified haunts … nearer to the metropolis.

Now is the time that there is so little … called morning, that novelties in the articles of dresses for that time of day, are but little seen to; there is but one cornette that we find attractive, and which is well calculated for retirement without appearing in a … its shape is uncommonly beautiful and … and its materials, though light, both rich and beautiful; it is formed chiefly of blond of a … pattern: it is trimmed with bows, and … of striped ribbon of the most striking and novel colours; the pattern on these ribbons … new; the stripes on one side being terminated in Vandyck points, so charmingly shated that they appear to rise above the surface, and … ribbon a most resplendent article of dress.

But if fancy, taste, and invention … so sedulously employed in the morning dress cap, the evening head-dresses are beyond … The Frescati hat … parties, is superb, yet truly delicate; … of white satin, edged and lightly ornamented with pearls; over the crown and part of the brim … playing in gossamer and sylph-like lightness … of real marabout feathers: to a fine … looking female this hat is a real acquisition: it has this advantage, there are few countenances it would not become; except the complexion remarkably sallow, or the figure too short. England, however, is justly termed the land of … few of her daughters are found with these defects. The shape of the above-mentioned head-dress comes very much over the forehead; consequently when worn as a dress hat, it is placed very backwards and on one side; on the discovered side is a bouquet of marabouts, under the brim. A toque of black velvet is a handsome evening dress for matronly ladies; it is diversified with satin and gold cordon; it is crowned with … of pink and black geathers, intermingled … droop over the front; and one long black … en saule pelureur, depends from the right … the shoulder. The Ceres’ toque is a becoming head-dress for musical parties, and for …married ladies; it is formed of bias folds of three colours, jonquil, pomegranate … purple, and is crowned with a half … obliquely, of small scarlet feathers of the … bird, scattered over with sprigs of gold. Another toque, en squellette, for full dress evening, is made of white satin and pearls; as its name imports, it is calculated for displaying the hair, and it should be extremely well arranged with this head-dress, which is fastened on the right side with two Glauvina pins, placed across, like cupids arrows, their heads coral, set on with fillagree gold; the other ornaments are coquelicot ears of of corn, bearded with gold, and plumes of small marabouts. A cap for full dress, called the Hungarian, is extremely splendid; it is of white satin, by may be literally said to be powdered with pearls and white bugles, which, on the crown, are wrought in the most exquisite pattern of flowers: the shape of the cap is a mixture of the Hulan and the Henri-quatre, which latter it most resembles, except that, on one side it is finished by indentings; these turn slightly up, and are edged with pearls: while a row of small pear pearls ornament the edge of the cap next the hair: it is crowned with a lovely and most superb plume of white ostrich feathers. The head-dress for balls consists chiefly of the hair being splendidly arranged in bows and curls: as ornaments, a few white, short feathers of that gossamer kind, the real marabouts, are placed very backward, so as to discover all the front ringlets, and only to mingle partially among the bows of hair, which are light and transparent. A superb gold ornament divides the hair above the forehead.

We began with the most exalted and beautiful part of the human frame, and before we quit the charming structure, we will make mention of the bonnets.

Surely our fair countrywomen have been studying Ovid’s “Art of Beauty,” the roman poet advises the ladies not to incur the enormous expence of wearing scarlet and purple, as he exclaims:

“What folly must in such expence appear,

When more becoming colours are less dear!”

And, indeed, the three colours now in request, have nothing to recommend them, when we regard them only according to their tints; but there is not a complexion, we will venture to say, nor any female but what is set off by them: these are the Egyptian brick colour, the orange tawny of the pomegranate rind, and the Massacca brown. A bonnet, which has been christened the Grenada bonnet, we have seen, that has been finished for a lady of rank and beauty; it was the colour of the pomegranate rind, of a very attractive shape, and made very wide in front; the material was plain gros de Naples: the crown was ornamented with fan ornaments of satin, the colour, Nile-water green, shot with pomegranate; between each of these ornaments were short feathers of the fox-brush kind, of the same colours, intermingled. The hats and bonnets are all of this large kind, spread out wide, and much bent over the forehead; we suppose the Grenada bonnet was only named after its colour, and the growth of the pomegranate in that part of Spain. Black velvet is the favourite, and general material for all hats; we are sorry to see them almost exclusively trimmed with heavy bows of the same; for the carriage they are sometimes enlivened by white feathers, but not often; coloured flowers and black plumage, the latter ornament is generally preferred, constituting the chief embellishments. For walking it is not now reckoned in good taste to wear black feathers; no lady would grace the promenade with white plumage; and even coloured flowers, though they are worn in walking costume, are not reckoned so genteel as a hat wholly unornamented, except with the bows above-mentioned, or with coloured ribbons, which still prevail much on black bonnets, particularly those of the pomegranate blossom colour.

Swedish mantles are yet in high fav0ur for the carriage; and in addition to that most supreme envelope, which we described in our last number, we have seen one very beautiful of puce coloured levantine, lined with bright jonquil; levantine is a much better material for this article of dress than gros de Naples, as it hangs more gracefully over the form: this cloak had a very large pelerine mantelet cape, which fell as low as the elbow and was ornamented with fringe and rich tassels of mingled jonquil and puce-colour.

Walking pelisses are of gros de Naples, generally of dark coloures, lined with white, amber, pink, or other suitable tint; pelisses of velvet are very often seen with borders of valuable fur; we shall ever deprecate the disfigurement of these costly skins by fanciful patterns, {see previous month for the said “disfigurement” of valuable skins being called “elegant,” “unique,” and “truly novel.”} and have all the well judging on our side; we are admonished at those respectable furriers, who were not known to deal in any artificial furs, for giving … it: it is this, certainly, that causes the plain black lynx to be so much preferred, in this season, to valuable tiny zibeline’s skin, in zig-zags, and diamonds bigger than the little animal itself, and the beautiful American grey squirrel, with its snowy breast mingled with the back, in the form of leaves, &c. and the value of the fur of these exquisite creatures can never be enhanced by such representations; the beauty consists in their own intrinsic worth, and they are

“Most regular when irregular they seem.”

Imitations in false skins will now creep in, and render that common which might be exclusive.

There is but little new in the make of the gowns and dresses of black velvet, and of black lace, … white, rose colour, or Burgundy satin, are very favourite dresses for the evening. Levantine, gros de Naples, and tabinets, are prevailing materials in half-dress. The most favourite dress costume, particularly for young ladies, consists of soft … satin, trimmed with two rows of tulle, en ruche, fastened round the waist with a girdle of gold, beautifully wrought. The sleeves are short, and are formed of tulle and white satin.

Turquoise stones, pearls, and finely wrought … form the favourite articles of jewellery. A sprig of heart’s ease, the flower made of a different colour gems, and the leaves of emeralds, is a favourite fastening for a fichu or a tucker. A beautiful device has been made from this flower, in a seal, by our gallic neighbours. It is a play on the word, and would lose its point by translation; but the French language is now so well known by people of fashion, that they will easily comprehend it. This flower, in French, is called pensees, (thoughts) and this, we may find, in Shakespeare’s time was corrupted into pansy. However, the seal is engraved with the flower; the motto round it, “Je vous suis partout.” {I am with you everywhere}

The colours now most in request are Massacca, Egyptian brick, pomegranate, (both the tawny red of the rind, and the orange scarlet of the blossom) puce, pink, and amber.


SEVERAL hats of gros de Naples, and even those of velvet, have the crowns puckered like those of a bonnet, but the brim is broader, more round, and plain. Two, and sometimes four, large rosettes of ribbon, clouded and striped, sever to draw the puckerings, and are tied on the left side. The … beautiful toques are of white crepe lisse; they are formed of little ribs, made of rows of pearls; they have a little plume of marabouts placed on one side, and on the left a large rosette of pearls. The crown of some turbans is formed of gold, in treillage work, and the border consists of a band of black velvet and gold cordon. At the Thuilleries ladies are now walking in velvet dresses; they are short in front, but have a demi-train. The sleeves that the dress-makers now call floating sleeves, are those that are not sloped off, or confined by bracelets; but … are only kept out by an under sleeve, made stiff. In the drawing-room, black satin hsoes are worn, very long quartered; for the promenade shoes are of plain black velvet, bordered with martin skin, or with chinchilla.

Evening dresses, both of plain and figured velvet, are much in request; the front of the bust is ornamented with bands of satin, trimmed with narrow blond; this style of trimming is sometimes carried down the front of the skirt, but the bands … gradually as they approach the border. On dresses of black gros de Naples, which are always in favour, the usual trimming is a border of five or six bias folds of alternate crape and satin; when there are six of these folds, they are placed two and two, about a hand’s breadth distance from each other, the upper one falling over the one beneath. A petticoat of gros de Naples, trimmed with a full chicoree, with a pelisse robe of the same material over it, is one of the prettiest half-dresses that can be imagined; the sides of the pelisse which fly open are trimmed, as well as round the border, with a chicoree, narrower than that on the petticoat, and, as the robe is made shorter than the petticoat, this forms two rows of trimming round the border of the toute ensemble. The most approved mantle is of black satin, the collar and pelerine of velvet, cut in five points, and very much hollowed out. Sometimes are seen dresses of black gros de Naples, trimmed with three flounces of blond, others with three flat rouleaux: the former is for evening dress, the latter for half dress, to which a pelerine is added, but the variety of trimmings now adopted renders it impossible to speak decidedly on which is most in favour. When buffont drapery of gauze is made use of, there is no rule in regard to the rouleaux, bias folds, straps, or clasps, by which they may be confined. Some hats are seen trimmed with ribbons, and tulle under the brim; one of these hats has appeared of a very new and singular form: the brim is hollowed out in front, and one of the sides bends down more than the other: the form is whimsical, yet the hat has a very graceful appearance; it is of black satin, ornamented with four long, flat black feathers.

At the edge of the brims of dress hats, whether of satin of figured velvet, is a binding of the same material, equally broad below as above; over this is a quilting of tulle or blond. The hat is surmounted by bows and feathers. Sometimes the brim of a hat is broad and flat on the left side, and indented, or else turned up with a brooch, on the right side; or sometimes with a rosette, from whence issues a plume of feathers. Ladies who wear white ostrich feathers, or grey marabouts, have them tied together in a kind of bouquet, so that they can place them on their heads in a minute if they are going to see a new piece performed, or to any evening party where a hat without feathers would not be proper. Some hats of white satin have the crowns in very full puckers; in bonnets this crown consists in a caul, with the puckering formed by runners, through which narrow ribbons are drawn.

On some toques is seen a rouleau of satin of a different colour to the toque; it is disposed in a serpentine manner, and entwined round with gold cordon. Morning bonnets are made of plain velvet, either black, blue, green, massacca brown, or violet, they are trimmed with broad jagged leaves of velvet. Five bows of satin, and a little bunch of primroses … velvet, on each temple, are the favourite ornaments on dress caps. At the saloon have been seen several dresses of black satin. A pelerine is an indispensable ornament, not only for pelisses, but gowns, … the latter is only for half-dress. The pelerines is made to take on and off at pleasure. Those pelerines that are cut all round, in long sharp points, are called pelerines a la neige. A young lady, at a salon, had on a crimson mantle of plush silk, ornamented with black satin, and bordered with black … trimming; the cape of this mantle was of … satin, bordered with feather trimming.

Spencers are of black velvet, with square backs, and are seamed with black satin; they are called Hussar spences, because the bust is ornamented in front with brandenburghs; and on each sleeve are five chevrons: the mancherons are ornamented with epaulettes in silk lacing; they are worn with a petticoat, either of levantine, satin, or cachemire. The ladies use claws of gold to fasten their pelisses and pelerines; with this difference, that the claws which fasten the pelerines are smaller than those on the pelisse.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

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