Category: Research

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

FANCY COSTUME. – NO. 44. – FANCY COSTUME SPANISH (Murcia).

The females of this province are famed for the beauty of their countenances, but their shapes have not that fineness so peculiar to the Spanish ladies in general. In their dress they are remarked for the richness of their silken garments; Murcia being famed all over the world for its silks; it abounds so with mulberry-trees, the constant food of the silk-worm, that the silks exported from this province alone, are supposed to be worth two hundred thousand pounds annually.
There is a certain peculiarity in the dress of the Murcian ladies, from the nationality of which they scarce ever entirely deviate. The engraving which we present to our readers this month, may be depended upon as an exact representation of their costume.
It consists of a white petticoat of rich silk, bordered by narrow satin rouleaux; over this is worn a short robe of a bright Andalusian geranium-colour, with three rows round the border of splendid gold lace; that in the centre broader than the other two; at the hips, as if marking out the pockets, is another ornament of gold lace. The corsage is of black velvet, ornamented down each side with gold buttons, and laces over bright geranium silk, the same colour and material as the robe, forming a kind of stomacher, with geranium cordon, which is also open, discovering a portion of white silk, of which an apron is composed, which finishes the skirt of the dress in front, and is bordered with rouleau-stripes, set on two-fold, of geranium. The sleeves are very full, and are of white sarcenet, the same as the apron; they are confined at the wrists by broad black velvet bracelets, fastened by a slide brooch of gold or jewels. The sleeve is surmounted by a bow, and rather long ends of geranium-coloured ribbon. The hair is arranged a la Fantasia, in long curls, rather large, on the left side of the face; the other side is concealed by a very broad long braid plaited, which, after having taken the circle of the head, falls over the right shoulder, and fastened at the upper part of the back of the corsage, is then divided into two plaits, terminated by tassels of hair, formed of tight plaiting in loops; these depend rather lower than the right hip. A plume of black ostrich feathers completes the coiffure. The ear-pendants are en girandoles, and are composed of gold and sapphires. A black velvet collar encircles the neck, just below the throat, in the centre of which is a large sun of gold, with a large valuable pearl. The beautiful little feet of the Spanish ladies, for which they are so justly celebrated, appear to great advantage with this dress: the stockings are of white silk, and the delicate shoe is of celestial blue satin, with the hind quarters of geranium-colour, which colour fastens up the shoe en sandal: pantaloons of geranium sarcenet, made full across the leg, but tight round the ancle, descend just above the sandal- strings.

MORNING DRESSES.

FIRST MORNING DRESS (Centre Figure.)

A dress of lavender-coloured gros de Naples, with a very broad hem round the border, the head slightly vandyked, and finished by chain-work of silk cordon. The body is covered with a canezou spencer of embroidered tulle, with stripes formed of pink satin rouleaux, and the waist encircled by a pink ribbon belt, striped with black in hair-stripes: over the sleeves, which are a l’imbecille, and of the same colour and material as the dress, are frills of very broad white lace, and on each shoulder is also a bow of ribbon with long ends, the same as the belt. Very broad bracelets of gold encircle the wrists, surmounted by a full ruffle of lace, ascending towards the narrow part of the arm. A ruff surrounds the throat, formed of lace and pink satin; and a hat of pink satin is worn with this dress, very much ornamented under the brim with pink satin ribbon and blond, and a full branch of white privet, without foliage, over the right temple. A compact bouquet of flowers is placed in front of the crown; and broad strings of pink satin ribbon, clouded with black, float loose. Half-boots of gros de Naples, the colour of the dress, fringed round the top, and Woodstock gloves, complete this costume.

SECOND MORNING DRESS.

This dress, which is calculated to receive morning visits of ceremony, and which forms also a genteel home costume for the day, is of sea-green gros de Naples, with a broad hem round the border; falling partly over which is a deep flounce, finished at the edge in points, which are trimmed with a broad fringe, with an elegantly-wrought head, in diamond-work. The body is made high and plain, en fichu, two short points of which are drawn through a belt the same as the dress, fastened in the front with a jasper buckle. The sleeves are a l’imbecille, confined at the wrist by a plain band: double-frilled mancherons surmount the sleeves, of the same material as the dress; and a very full ruff, of several rows of narrow lace, encircles the throat. The head-dress consists of an elegant turban-cap of white crepe-lisse; the folds divided by crossings of white satin ribbon, between which are delicate branches of small field-flowers: very long strings of white striped ribbon float over the shoulders. The slippers are of green satin.

FIG. 1. A turban of white satin, ornamented with blond and pink satin, with white and pink carnations.

FIG. 2. Back-view, In a half-length, of the dress on the centre figure. The stripes on the spencer, the hat, and dress, all of celestial-blue levantine.

FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES, AND HALF-LENGTH FIGURES.

FIG. 1. PROMENADE BONNET, of tourterelle gros de Naples, gathered in the brim en capote: the crown ornamented by bows of ruby-coloured ribbon, edged with green. A light branch of fern is placed on the left side. The brim is ornamented under the right side, with a fan ornament of ruby satin, edged with narrow blond; under the left side are two ring-ornaments of ruby edged with green.
FIG. 2. A back view of the same bonnet of fumee de Londres, trimmed with white and blue striped ribbon, and a fuller branch of fern than that on the tourterelle bonnet.
FIG. 3. A turban of yellow satin, crossed by rouleau-stripes of the same, and crowned by a beautiful plumage of white feathers.
FIG. 4. A crimson velvet turban, ornamented with broad satin ribbon of the same colour, and white feathers.
FIG. 5. A front and side-view of a bonnet for the morning promenade, formed of rows of fluted black satin ribbon, trimmed with grey, or with barbel-blue ribbon, with hair-stripes of black. The lining white satin, with a bandeau of the same ribbon as the trimming, next the hair, and a small bow over each temple.
FIG. 6. A dress-cap of blond, finished next the face by an entwined rouleau of satin, the colour of the damask rose; from thence very broad borders turn back, and reclining against them are branches of small half-opening roses, with their green foliage.
FIG. 7. A back view of the same kind of cap; the ribbon olive-green, striped with black.
FIG. 8. OPERA DRESS. – A dress of white satin, the corsage a yelva, Short full sleeves of blond descend nearly as low as the elbow, where they terminate by a ruffle. Beret of white crape, with two small white feathers, under the right side of the brim: on the left temple reclines a large rosette of white satin, with two very small feathers. One string of pearls, from this ornament, crosses the forehead. The crown of the beret is adorned by a superb plumage of white feathers. The necklace consists of three rows of large pearls, and the ear-pendants are of pear-pearls.
FIG. 9. BALL DRESS. – A petticoat of tulle over white satin, or of a very pale blush-rose colour. Italian corsage of etherial-blue satin, with short full sleeves of white satin. The hair elegantly and simply arranged in light curls and bows, with a full-blown Provence rose, and three gold Glawina pins placed on the right side. A bandeau of gold, with a cameo in the centre, obliquely crosses the top of the forehead. The bracelets differ from each other: that on the left arm is very broad, and is of back velvet, fastened with a cameo, and is secured doubly by a slide-brooch of gold. The left bracelet is much narower, and is formed of jet and gold. The ear-pendants are gold, and a gold chain ornaments the neck.

WALKING DRESSES.

FIRST DRESS.

A pelisse of Spanish-fly green gros de Naples, fastened down the front of the skirt with papillon rosettes of the same: the body made plain, with lappels turning back, and discovering a fine chemisette of lawn or cambric, laid in plaits, fastened with small ruby buttons: a triple French ruff encircles the throat, under which is tied a fiancee of brocaded silk. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille, with double ruffles, separated by a bracelet of gold and scarlet enamel. A lavender-coloured bonnet of gros de Naples is tastefully ornamented beneath and above the brim with green ribbon striped with white; over the left side depend ends from a rosette, which are finished by a broad rich fringe.
N.B. A half-length figure presents a back view of this dress; the pelisse and hat both of lavender-colour.

SECOND WALKING-DRESS.

A pelisse of cream-coloured gros de Naples over a petticoat of the same; the petticoat discovered by the pelisse being folded back, in partial points down the front of the skirt; and under each of these points from whence they appear, are small bows of ribbon, without ends, the colour of the pelisse; the points are finished at the edge by a rouleau-binding. The body is made quite plain, and fitting tight to the shape; a narrow collar turns back from the throat, which is encircled by a triple ruff of tulle. The sleeves are a la Donna Maria, and the fulness at the narrow part confined by the loop which ascends from the wrist to the bend of the arm, where a small rosette terminates the puckering. A tight wristband-cuff finishes the sleeve next the hand. A Cachemire scarf, the colour of the red orange, is worn with this pelisse; the border is in various colours at the ends on a white gauze, and the fringe, the colour of the scarf, are admirable. The bonnet is of autumnal-green gros de Naples, ornamented with puffings of the same, and ribbon of a similar colour, striped with Modena-red, in rich brocade. The half-boots are of cream-coloured kid.

FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.

FIG. 1. – Back and front view of a head-dress in hair, arranged in bows and curls, with strings of pearls, scarlet poppies, and blue-bells; both field-flowers.
FIG. 2. – Centre figures between the coiffeure above described, representing a back and front view of an elegant turban-cap of tulle and blond, intermingled with loops of celestial-blue ribbon, striped with black; on the hair, next the face, are ears of ripe Indian corn. This turban-cap is for the evening party, and is worn with a Palmyrene dress, made low, and trimmed round the bust with a double falling tucker of rich blond; a broader blond forms a mancheron over the sleeves a la Psyche. The sleeves are a l’Amadis, quite tight to the bend of the arm, and only full as they approach the elbow, and finish at the shoulder.

AN EVENING DRESS.

This costume, which representation of was unavoidably detained by the engraver, has been by mistake denominated a walking dress; it consists of an Indian taffety, delicately painted in lozenge diamonds, in outline. A broad hem surrounds the border, and next the shoe are two rouleaux, one straight, the other scalloped; these are divided by a very narrow rouleau of blue satin. On the broad hem, which ascends nearly as high as the knee, are ornaments en scie, placed rather wide apart, surmounted by a row of ornaments representing strawberry leaves, and finished like the jagged edges of the Florence-like ornaments, with scarlet and green satin; some ladies prefer blue; either is equally fashionable. The body is made plain and low, and has a drawn tucker of blond across the bust. Beneath this tucker is a cape-collar, forming one large scalop in front of the bust; and cleft in points on each shoulder, where they form mancherons over sleeves a la Mameluke, of white blond; these are confined at the wrist by a narrow cuff of white satin, above which is a coronet bracelet of gold. The collar-capes are trimmed round with narrow blond, and rouleaux of scarlet satin. The head-dress is a turban of white crepe-lisse, the folds interspersed with bows of blue or green satin ribbon; with strings of the same, floating loose. The ear-pendants and necklace are of pearls.

A RIDING DRESS.

A habit of bright emerald green; the body ornamented with rows of small black buttons, set very close together. The sleeves are full at the top, but sit almost tight to the narrower part of the arm. The collar is like that on a man’s coat, and is of black velvet; over that of the chemisette is worn a black satin stock, surrounding which, next the face, is a narrow full frill of cambric lace, or fine clear lawn. The hat is of black beaver, with a light green veil. The half-boots are of black kid, and over them are pantaloons, exactly like those worn by gentlemen, and fastening under the foot, like theirs, by a strap. The gloves are of doeskin.

FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.

CENTRE FIGURE (Half-length) – CONCERT DRESS.

Dress of white satin, made low, with drawn tucker of broad blond. The hair arranged in front a la Madonna: on the summit of the head are three long puffs of hair; in front of which is a tiara of gold and large pearls.
FIG. 1. Beret of pink satin; on the right side, beneath the brim, an ornament of tulle, edged with blond, forming a large rosette, on which are branches of heath, and a few ends of pink satin ribbon. Under the brim, on the left side, is a small white ostrich feather. Pink esprits, and white plumage, are elegantly dispersed over the crown.
FIG. 2. Back view of the same coiffeure.
FIG. 3. Back view of a dress-hat of etherial blue, or of emerald-green satin, ornamented with white ribbon and white feathers.
FIG. 4. (At the base of the plate) – A beret of ruby-coloured gros de Naples velvet, with marabouts and white ostrich feathers, intermingled beneath the brim, and taking a spiral direction towards the crown. A few small feathers fastened together, fall over the left side of the brim.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR NOVEMBER, 1829.

The empire of Fashion is a most despotic government; she rules over the wisest at her pleasure; nor does she heed, in her various caprices, how ridiculous she may make her subjects appear: let it be marked, however, at the same time, how great is her power! Like a skilful magician, she can transform, by a touch of her wand, what seems almost ugly, at a first glance, into what is beautiful, for she has the fascinating art of rendering it really so; particularly when her two High Priestesses, Good Taste, and Elegant Fancy, lend their aid in attiring the modern belle.
Nothing is reckoned now more appropriate for fire-side costume or for the morning walk, than a dress of fine Merino, made nearly as high as the throat, of a slate- colour: these dresses are made very plain and simple tight to the shape, and fitting close to the bust; but at the back the body is finished slightly en gerbe. A broad hem surrounds the border of the skirt, headed by a narrow fancy rouleau of the same material as the dress. The sleeves are a l’Amadis, with the gauntlet-cuff very deep, and finished by one conspicuous point on the outside of the arm. Some of these comfortable winter-dresses, when a very superior quality, have been seen trimmed with Cachemire, and are truly and strikingly elegant. A favorite dress for friendly evening parties and dinners, is of a bright geranium-coloured gros de Naples, with two deep flounces, pointed, and set on in festoons: the corsage is a Yelva, and forming also, by means of Italian net drapery, the same colour as the dress, and bound with satin, fichu-robings. The sleeves are in the Amadis form, but not very wide at the top: a gauntlet cuff finishes them at the wrist. Many dresses are made square in the back, and are pointed in front; all dresses which are low are very much cut away from the shoulders, discovering also much of the back and bust: when the sleeves are short, they are short indeed, leaving the arm almost bare. The fringes used in trimming dresses are beginning to increase in favor; we have been astonished at finding this very elegant accessory so tardy in its progress. Satin dresses, in the Bavarian-robe style, are much admired for evening parties; the false petticoat is of velvet the same colour as the satin, and is finished down the front with small butterflies of fillagree gold, with their wings expanded. A most lovely dress has lately been completed by Mrs. BELL, for a young lady possessed of high hereditary talents; it is of white satin, covered over with fine lace. Gros de Naples, as a very appropriate demi-saison article, is much worn in evening dress. But few ball-dresses have come under our inspection; they are of white tulle or coloured crape; the former worn over white, the latter over a satin slip, the same colour as the crape.
Cloaks form, at present, the most favorite out-door envelope: some are superb; one of violet-coloured satin we found extremely beautiful; it was lined throughout with white gros de Naples, and trimmed all round with unspotted ermine, of the most dazzling whiteness; the pelerine cape was also made of this costly material. Another cloak, very similar to this, is of puce-coloured gros de Naples, lined with white, and the ermine, which trims it, is spotted in the usual manner. Cloaks of gros de Naples, made very plain, and only conspicuous, when of black or dark shades, by being lined with some striking colour, are very generally worn at the morning promenade. We have seen a pelisse made of the new material gros de Chine; the ground was of a French white, and the stripes were of rich shades, from bright red to black ; it was made with a very large pelerine cape, turning back like that on a man’s great- coat; the sleeves were quite in the jigot style: as the lady on whom we saw this envelope was one of high fashion, lately arrived from Paris, we may guess from whence this fashion originated; though it had a peculiar appearance, it was very becoming, and well fitted to the open carriage, as the material itself is warm, and the pelisse well wadded throughout.
A very beautiful new bonnet is of figured satin of a bright rose-colour; the pattern in zig-zag stripes ; it is trimmed with ribbons of black and rose-colour, with a feather- fringe of the same shades. A black velvet autumnal bonnet is ornamented with green, and a long branch of green foliage with delicate flowers of the same verdant tint, is exquisitely wrought; it crosses the crown obliquely, and recline partly over the brim. A bonnet of Spanish-brown satin is trimmed with satin ribbon, the colour Oiseau de Paradis, and disposed in long loops; black Heron’s feathers complete the ornaments on this tasteful bonnet. A second bonnet of velvet is of plaid, the tints dark green and red, forming the checquers on a black ground; it is very elegantly trimmed with ornaments of the same material, relieved by satin ribbon, corresponding in colours to the plaid velvet. A favorite material for carriage hats, especially for paying bridal visits, is white satin, beautifully figured en coquilles. Another bonnet for the carriage is of figured blue satin; the design, a running pattern of ivy-leaves: the bonnet is trimmed with gauze ribbon, white, with a white satin stripe in the centre, and edged with a delicate brocade stripe of black and yellow. Roses, of a fancy kind, full blown, half green, half yellow, and made of feathers, tastefully dispersed, complete the ornaments.
The colours most in request are scarlet, cornflower-blue, yellow, autumnal-green, and violet-colour.

NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.

HATS AND BONNETS. – Bonnets of satin are ornamented with gauze ribbons, and have a demi-veil of blond. Some bonnets of open straw are lined with green, and ornamented with figured ribbon of green gauze. When flowers are placed on chip or crape hats, they are generally formed into a half-wreath, which is fastened on one side by two or three bows of ribbon, and the other side reclines on the brim. Crape hats are generally of steam colour, and are ornamented with green branches; several bonnets of white gros de Naples, are finished by bindings of lilac satin, with which material they are also lined. At the Bois de Boulogne was seen a charming hat of leghorn, adorned with a bouquet of small feathers of various colours, The gauze ribbons were of Scotch plaid. Hats of dark blue and dark green gros de Naples, and those of brown, are trimmed with very striking ribbons as to colour and contrast to the hat, such as white on green, rose-colour on blue, and yellow on brown.
Bonnets of white satin are ornamented at the edge of the brim with a demi-veil of blond, and are seen in carriages on the heads of some of the first ladies of fashion. Some very pretty hats of English green satin, lined with white and ornamented with white Dahlias, have also been much admired; hats of white satin are often lined with rose-colour, and over the hat fell branches of roses in full bloom, and a deep blond is placed at the edge of the brim; this hat is much in use for morning visits.
In ornamenting hats are often seen flowers, grouped together in bouquets; these are called bouquets a la Princesse: they are round, and almost compact. Two of these bouquets form the trimming; one is placed in the centre of the crown, in front, the other under the brim, on the left side .
Straw bonnets a l’Anglaise, lined with cherry-colour, and ribbons of the same hue, form the favourite head- covering at the Tuilleries.
Almost all the new hats, whether of satin, gros de Naples, or figured velvet, have broad stripes of rose-colour, blue, white, yellow and lilac; all on the same material. Such stripes are also seen of figured gauze, which are used for bonnets and berets. On some satin hats the figures are in damask, of a zig-zag pattern. With the striped hats are generally worn one or two branches of cocks’ feathers of various colours; these branches are in the form of large tulips placed one above the other.
Bonnets for the carriages and those worn at the sitting of the institute, are of bright blue or rose-colour. White hats, also, with weeping-willow feathers, of white and violet-colour. One plume was remarked, for having in the centre of its arch, a small, round tuft of white feathers, tipt with violet-colour. The ribbons were white, spotted with violet. A hat of Leghorn was ornamented by a long branch of the Jericho-rose. Among the flowers Joy and Clematis seemed much in favour.
Hats of satin, the colour Chrysoprate (a light green), are lined with black satin, and ornamented with tassel-fringe-feathers, of green and black. Hats of blue, watered gros de Naples have also black linings and blue and black feathers fastened together.
Hats of plain pluche de soie, are trimmed with ribbons having broad stripes, purple on white, or green on violet; some hats of black satin are lined with ponceau satin striped with black en musique. Some fashionists now place a ruche under the brim of a hat, instead of over it. Many bonnets have appeared of white satin with broad blue stripes; they are trimmed with light blue ribbon, on which is brocaded small wreaths of flowers in white.

OUT-DOOR COSTUME. – Nothing can be more troublesome to walk with, than those dresses with a demi-train, called Amazones; therefore the fashionable Parisian lady, when she has to make a visit in the country, rides on horseback, in a dress of the usual walking length. Her pantaloons are made quite plain; her half-boots either brown or black.
Some ladies have their pelisses made with a cape, like that of a man’s coat; it is very large and is pointed at the ends. The corsages of the pelisse fit tight to the shape, but have various kinds of ornaments across the bust. It is expected that Brandenburghs will be very general this winter on pelisses.
Several pelisses are in preparation of Cachemire; they are of light colours, with a border of about three fingers’ breadth over the broad hem, and the same bordering round a double pelerine cape. The sleeves are narrow at the lower part of the arm, and terminate at the wrist by a double embroidered cuff. These pelisses are lined with white gros de Naples, and are worn open in front of the skirt; some ladies of fashion belonging to the higher classes wear petticoats of white gros de Naples under coloured silk pelisses, and even under deshabille pelisses of muslin.
The first wadded wrapping pelisses which have appeared, have a broad hem at the border, and one narrower down each side in front: at the head of the hem is placed a very narrow bias fold, finished on each side by a narrow binding. Two or three bias folds, of a similar kind placed at about a finger’s breadth from each other, terminate the end of the sleeves and fasten the plaits together, which give an elegant finish to this kind of pelisse when in silk; from the wristband ascend five bias folds as high as to the middle of the arm; the sleeves are visibly much narrower at the lower part of the arm.
Gowns, when adopted for promenade dresses, are of stuff, or other materials of fine wool; the corsage is entirely covered with a pelerine of four points; those which fall over the shoulders form epaulettes to the sleeves.
The sleeves are excessively wide at the top, but are made tight to the arm from the elbow to the wrist. Pelerines worn with ladies’ mantles are of black, blue, or green satin; they descend very low and are ornamented with a fringe.
At the races at the Champ de Mars, several ladies were seen in satin pelisses; and riding-habits disputed the palm of hardihood and lightness with groups of horsemen; they wore pantaloons of white, black boots, and black cravats. Some had collars the same as those of the gentlemen. A narrow quilling was placed over the black cravat next the face. The chemisettes were of plaited lawn, and one was seen with a frill.
All the new cloaks have enormous capes, coming below the elbow; these capes are trimmed with fringe. On several cloaks are seen full sleeves; these are open at the inside of the arm, and fall behind like the Polish sleeves.

DRESSES. Above the fringes which ornament dresses of gros de Naples, are often seen bouquets of flowers, embroidered in silk. With a petticoat of coloured gros de Naples is worn a muslin canezou spencer, laid in very small plaits, for home costume. Some of these spencers are, however, laid in plaits of a finger’s breadth, placed at equal distances from each other. These plaits form a kind of fan on the front of the bust, and on the back, and are placed in bias on the sleeves. Some dresses of white organdy have, above the hem, three or four rows of large spots, embroidered in different shades of green. Muslin dresses, with very narrow stripes, are of a clear kind, and are of steam-colour; they are ornamented above the hem, and next the feet, with a narrow Mechlin lace, set on full. A square pelerine of the same material is worn with these dresses, edged round with narrow Mechlin lace.
Long sleeves have the tops formed en Basile, – it was not long ago that they were made quite flat; to render them so, the dress-makers placed lower, every day, the plaits at the back part. Some canezous have been seen, with the sleeves having two rows of these points formed into a band, in the place where the epaulette was made to descend.
In the work-rooms of the most celebrated dress-makers, they are now occupied with the manner of cutting the sleeves. For dresses of winter materials, it is in contemplation to have them very narrow at the small part of the arm; gauzes, and other light stuffs, will continue to be made with large sleeves like those now worn. On velvet or satin they are still very wide, from the shoulder to the elbow, where they fall en Amadis, which composes the rest of the sleeve to the wristband. The fashion of plain boddices continues.
With deshabille dresses, especially those of silk and stuff, it is customary to wear a pelerine of the same, trimmed round with a broad frill-trimming; the corsage is plain, and the skirt, instead of being gathered full round the waist, is laid in large plaits. Muslin dresses are embroidered in feather-stitch, in very large bouquets; they are worn at friendly evening parties, and are bordered by one broad flounce, set on in festoons. In each scalop of the flounce, formed by the festoon, is a bouquet, corresponding with those worked on the dress. Where the flounce separates, are seen seven or eight rouleaux of white gros de Naples, and the same ornaments surmount the flounce. The sleeves are short, and en berets. The body is trimmed with a beautiful Mechlin lace.
Dresses of white organdy, and of muslin, with those of Cachemire, are prevalent at the theatre, as are chintzes. Several ladies have appeared at the Tuilleries, in dresses of silk and stuff, called gros de Chine. They are made very short.
Gold and silver fringes will be worn with dresses of crape; and a fringe of white beads is in preparation, to be placed on a dress of cherry-coloured velvet. Tunic robes, also, of crape, gauze, and other light materials, are expected to be much in vogue for evening dresses.
The name of papillon is given to the three rosettes, with very short ends, of satin, which are placed, instead of gold buttons, to fasten the sleeve together, where it has been cut open. The new trimmings for dresses, whether for the promenade, for dancing assemblies, or for dress evening parties, are composed of a resemblance of the yew tree, which ascends its pointed head from the hem next the feet, to the knees; similar points, but smaller in proportion, descend from where the dress is cut away round the neck, over the bust, the back, and the shoulders. These lengthened triangles, sometimes straight, sometimes reversed, are formed of large puffs, and are adopted, either as narrow flounces with two heads, or double ruches, pinked, whether formed of two strips, or of bands appliquee.
There are some new materials for dresses, named Allambras, Pactolines, and Japonnaises; these beautiful tissues are thought to form a fine relief to the jewellery worn with them. The King of Siam is also another new and original material for dresses, which takes its name from its pattern, which, it is said, has been copied from that on the King of Siam’s mantle. To correspond with this dignified style of fashion, it is requisite that the winter tissues should be rather grave, and imposing in their appearance; the fine Lyonese velvet, and a beautiful texture, in which is interwoven gold or silver, and the silk often painted in flowers of various colours, in flowers, branches, and a multiplicity of other designs. Tunics, embroidered or painted, forming the most beautiful dresses for balls and evening parties; Ispahan velvet, and robes of Cachemire, bordered with variegated palm leaves.
Among a select number of new silks, is the Meletaline, half silk, half worsted, for half-dress; Barazinkoff Egyptian, Merino Egyptian, spotted chaly, Dauphiness-poplin, and toile de Bombay.
The sleeves named Imbecilles, a la Basile, a la Religeuse, a la Turque, in a word, all those wide sleeves which have been worn for these six months past, are decreasing in size daily, and seem likely to be soon abolished. The Amadis sleeve, worn at present, fits close to the smaller part of the arm, from the elbow to the wrist; the upper part of the sleeve, however, is very capacious, and cuts quite as much into the silk, as when the sleeve was of equal width; the top of the present sleeve being of the same piece with the Amadis. The blond, crape, and slight materials of which long sleeves are made, to wear with coloured dresses, yet preserve the fashion of being equally wide from the shoulder to the wrist.
Figured stuffs are much in request; they are made with stomachers, or plaited drapery across the bust, with an ornament at the head of the broad hem on the border of the skirt.
At some evening parties have been seen pelisse-robes of white crape, embroidered at the border in white silk. The sleeves a l’Amadis, fastened from the bend of the arm to the wrist, by a row of buttons, forming a finish to a
quilling of narrow blond, which appeared as if falling over the opening. The corsage fitted close, and was confined round the throat by a narrow binding, covered by two rows of a large gold chain. The sash consisted of a broad white ribbon, tied in front. On the head was worn a large beret, made very simple, ornamented by puffs of ribbon; though some ladies, in this delicate costume, wear their hair only crossed over with a chain a la Chevaliere.
Morning dresses are often of red, green or blue, figured over in a running pattern; they are made square in the back with a stomacher in front. Some dresses of gros de Naples have the sleeves laid in large plaits, from the shoulder to the elbow. A wristband confines these sleeves at their termination; the rest of the sleeve sits close.
Some ladies of fashion have wrapping dresses, made of stuff, and large enough to be worn over another gown in home costume, of a smarter kind.
At the Concert d’Emulation, two dresses were remarked, one of slate-coloured gros de Naples, the other of figured Merino, of a violet-colour; both these dresses had sleeves a la Donna Maria, very tight at the smaller part of the arm. The flounce of this dress, as well as the square pelerine worn with it, were plaited.

HEAD-DRESSES. In the last head-dresses which were introduced for dress-balls and public spectacles, chains a la Chevaliere were very prevalent, they crossed the forehead, the bows, and the curls of the hair: young persons continue to have their hair arranged either in the English or the Chinese style.
At several dress-parties have been seen blond caps, ornamented on the right side, with three long white feathers.
Berets of silk, striped in yellow and black, or in gauze of royal-blue and gold, are ornamented with two tails of the bird of paradise, one on each side.
At the first performance of a new piece, lately represented at the Opera-buffa, the greater part of the ladies, who wore their hair, had alternate puffs of hair and ribbon: in front were a few corkscrew ringlets, a l’Anglaise. Some blond caps were ornamented in front with a diadem of flowers. On other caps were flowers which formed on each side a half-circle, over which fell a trimming of blond.
Dress-hats are of white gros de Naples, with the crown extremely low, and are ornamented with white willow feathers.
At the theatres, head-dresses in hair are without any ornament: but dress-caps are very much in favour. The stiffness and formality of the corkscrew ringlets make them always appear like false hair.
At evening dress-parties, where any ornaments are added to the hair, flowers are the favourite accessories. A plait of hair is formed of ten branches, which, placed on the summit of the head, appears like a basket. From thence ascend very light puffs of hair, almost transparent, where bows and flowers with long stalks are fixed.
Caps of black blond are a novelty ; they are ornamented with white embroidery.

JEWELLERY. Chains a la Chevaliere are often seen ornamenting the hair, at evening dress parties.
The ear-rings of the last new fashion are either of gold or of various coloured gems; they are so extremely heavy, that a lady who implicitly follows this fashion.to its height, never wears them except till she has deferred putting them in her ears to the last moment, when she is going to the theatre or to a full dress evening party: they are even obliged to have a tiny piece of silk concealed behind the lap of the ear; an artifice revived from our great grandmothers, who were accustomed to wear large girandole ear-pendants.

MISCELLANEOUS. Under-stockings, of fine and almost transparent Scotch thread; many ladies of fashion wear a pair of rose-coloured hose.
Gloves are fastened at the wrists by a double button, either of gold or jewels.
In general the Parisian females are not remarkable for the fulness of their busts, but they are well made about the ancles. The fashion of wearing their dresses so very short, explains itself, in a city where we find every female making the adornment of her legs and feet an important study. As for the vogue of open and low-made corsages, that is, indeed, surprising.
Almost all the reticules have a silk net on them. This belongs to a fringe which trims the opening, and a false pocket, hollowed out in a strap, like the semicircles over a pistol-case of a cavalry officer.
Shower-baths are beginning to be very fashionable; and, as every thing which bears the stamp of novelty must be extolled, it is asserted that they act in a much more favourable maaner than immersion in water, which often causes a languor that is never felt after the shower-bath.
Since the commodious size of the Palais Royal has been restored, and that every arcade is better lighted, ladies now go in the evening to make their purchases, as is usual at the time of the New-year’s gifts.
A charming invention, the result of which will become the production of one of the prettiest ornaments of the chimney-piece and the boudoir, has just taken place amongst the attributes of taste and fashion, and offers even to the ladies an employment as diversified as it is amusing. It consists of a new process of taking off on wood every kind of drawing by a most simple method: by dipping, for one instant, in pure, clear water, an engraving, a plain or coloured lithography, and then stretching it out over a thin sheet of white wood, such as holly, sycamore, or of the linden-tree, and, in a second after, taking it carefully off, the paper being yet moist, will retain the engraving, or the lithographic design. It is astonishing to see, re-produced, and deposed on the wood, every feature, shade, and line to the very smallest lineament of the design in question, and with going over, with a pencil, the surface of the sheet of wood, a very pretty screen may be produced, or a box to contain gloves or needle-work, a writing-desk, or an ele- gant and useful basket. By this process may, also, be avoided those inconveniences attending the tediousness of painting on wood; and the portraits of a family may be perpetuated without confiding them to the engraver or the lithographer.
The shoes are square-toed, and without rosettes. Black half-boots are becoming very general. Slippers of Cachemire are still reckoned truly elegant. Some shoes of brown kid, highly glazed, have been remarked at the Tuilleries; the hind quarters are cut very low.
Among the silk stockings that women of fashion wear with chintz dresses, or those of gros de Chine, are white with very large ribs, alternately close, and of open-work.
Several ladies, who dance at the Ranelagh balls, have taken the trouble to write on their cards the country dances they have performed. It is now so many trophies attached to the Psyche mirror in their bed-chamber.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to December 1829

Back to October 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

COSTUME OF ALL NATIONS. NO. 42. VENETIAN.

It is a well-known saying, that those who have seen Venice have seen all that in this world is worth seeing. Among its highest attractions, and what we are disposed to consider as the very first, are its beautiful females: the fine Italian contour of face, the sparkling eye, the rosy lip, and regular, yet expressive features, are all considerably set off by a costume, still bearing the peculiar feature of the republic, though perfectly accordant with the improved attire of the most polished circles in other European states.
The dress is of white Italian silk, elegantly painted over in detached bouquets of different coloured flowers: this robe is open on one side of the skirt, discovering underneath, a petticoat of corn-flower-blue satin; and the edges of the robe at this opening are finished by an entwined rouleau of light blue and yellow. The corsage is made plain, and round the tucker part of the bust, and down the front of the body, en guimpe, is a larger of corn-flower-blue satin this, on gala days, is studded with differently-coloured gems; but on a dress of less ceremony these ornaments are of embossed silk embroidery. A girdle, of the same kind encircles the waist, and is fastened in front with a superb cameo. The sleeves fit close to the arm, and are of corn-flour-blue satin, slashed a l’Espagnole, with the slashes, which are small, filled in by white silk. Very broad bracelets of gold and rubies encircle the wrists. Over this sleeve hangs that elegant appendage called the Venetian sleeve, which is always the same as the robe, and edged round by narrow gold lace. The head-dress is compoed of a diadem of different coloured gems, from which issues a coronet of ears of corn in gold, and over each temple is a bouquet of blue corn-flowers. A bandeau of gold, with a ruby in the centre, crosses the forehead. The ear-pendants are of Turquoise-stones and gold; and the necklace of different coloured gems, set in gold, a l’Antique; from the centre depends a Girandole ornament of the same materials. A fan formed of white feathers completes this elegant and becoming costume.

A WALKING DRESS.

A dress of white muslin, richly embroidered in points at the border: each of these points inclose the work by a very full ruche, formed of thread tulle; thus making a conspicuous Vandyck border of rich points. The dress is made high; and though the body is slightly en gerbe, it is embroidered in a very splendid manner. A pointed zone confines it at the waist. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, with bracelets of dark braided hair, fastened with a gold heart: above this bracelet is a cuff, in Vandycked points, trimmed with a ruche of narrow tulle. A triple ruff of lace encircles the throat. The bonnet is of pale pink satin, and is trimmed under the brim with long and broad points of figured ribbon, pink and Spanish brown. Strings of the same kind of ribbon float over the shoulders. The crown of the bonnet is ornamented with pink satin, en fers de Cheval, stiffened, and discovering between the interstices full bouquets of pink fancy flowers, without foliage.

AN EVENING DRESS.

A dress of spring green crepe Aerophone, with abroad border beautifully painted in different, but suitable colours to the green, so that good taste is not offended by the association of tints too glaring; the part next the shoe consists in a pattern of small spots of deep and rich red; and over this, which forms a broad border, is a full, but very delicate wreath of foliage and flowers, somewhat resembling the barberry foliage and its fruit; the leaves are, however, of a green, several shades darker than the dress. The body is full a l’enfant, and is made low, particularly at the shoulders: but the bust is very delicately shielded by a transparent tucker of tulle, edged by narrow blond, which draws across the lower part of the neck: from this three rows of blond form a falling tucker, divided from that which draws, by a narrow rouleau of yellow and red satin. The sleeves are a l’imbecille, confined at the wrist by a bracelet, fastened by a cameo. The hair is arranged in curls on each side of the face, parted on the forehead, and short at the ears; the curls are rather large. The bows of hair on the summit of the head, are arched, and a la serpent. Three puffs of green crepe Aerophone, tastefully disposed, constitute all the ornament. The ear-pendants are of gold, en Girandoles, and the necklace consists of two rows of gold chain, with large, round links. The shoes are of satin, the colour of the dress.

A MORNING DRESS.

A wrapping pelisse of white Organdy, faced and bordered by a broad hem, over the head of which is a wreath of delicate embroidery in light colours. Body en gerbe, with a pelerine of muslin, trimmed round with the same, laid in small plaits, and the trimming finished at the edge by narrow lace. The waist encircled by a rose-coloured sash, tied in front with long ends. The sleeves are a l’imbecille, confined at the wrist by a cuff or wrist-band, ornamented on each side by raised buttons: this band is surmounted by an elegantly fluted ornament of lace. A falling double frill-ruff of lace surrounds the throat. A cornette of blond is worn under a small Livinia hat of fine leghorn, lined with rose-colour, and tied with rose-ribbon. Half-boots of Nankin.

A MORNING PROMENADE DRESS.

A pelisse of celestial-blue Jacanot muslin; the facings down each side of the front scalloped, and edged by narrow lace; on the facings are flowers, embossed, in white silk embroidery. The body made tight to the shape, with sleeves a la Mameluke, confined at the wrist by a full double ruffle of lace. Double fan mancherons edged with narrow lace. Hat of white gros de Naples, trimmed with lemon-coloured ribbon, edged with blue. A bandeau and rosette of the same ribbon is placed under the brim. A white blond veil is worn with this hat. A petticoat of embroidered muslin is worn under the above pelisse.

FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.

FIG. 1. – Back view of a Bonnet. – This bonnet is of white gros de Naples, with a pink crown, and pink ribbons with black hair stripes at the edge: a rich broad blond, wide enough for a curtain veil, is placed at the edge of the brim.
FIG. 2. – Second back view of a Bonnet. – Bonnet of lilac-coloured gros de Naples; with a ruche of white blond at the edge of the brim. The bonnet trimmed with white gauze ribbon, and ornamented with double white larkspurs.
FIG. 3. – Carriage-Hat – Of light coloured corded silk, of a brown cast; the hem ornamented underneath with a bandeau, terminated at each end by a rosette: the hat is elegantly ornamented with flowers in a spiral direction.
FIG. 4. – Dress-Hat – Of corn-flower blue satin, with two bird-of-paradise plumes, one placed under the brim, and rising over the crown; the other placed at the base of the crown, on the opposite side.
N. B. Back view of the same hat.

AN EVENING DRESS.

A dress of fine India muslin, ornamented at the border by two rows of stripes, consisting of detached flowers, worked in embroidery of different colours; these are each finished by a fringe of correspondent tints. The body is made with fichu-robings in front, of fine lace; and across the upper part of the bust is a drapery a la Sevigne. The waist is encircled by a rich white ribbon, one of which is jonquil, the other etherial-blue, which are the most pre-dominant colours in the embroidery. The sleeves are a l’imbecille, with very full quillings of lace at the cuff, standing up towards the arm: the mancherons are double, a la Psyche, and are of fine lace; on each shoulder are ends of the same ribbon as the sash, forming a rosette: just below the throat is a full, double ruff, of lace of cobweb texture. The hair is arranged in very full clusters of curls, on each side of the face, and brought close together, and formed into a corbeille on the summit of the head; this is divided from the front hair by a diadem of wrought gold, ornamented with pearls. The ear-pendants are of gold.
N. B. A back view of the same dress in pink muslin, with white canezou spencer.

A WALKING DRESS.

A dress of mignionette-leaf-green gros de Naples, with a very broad hem round the border, headed by a rouleau in chain-work. Canezou spencer of white muslin, with sleeves a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by a cuff, with dou- ble lace ruffles on each side; these are divided from each other by a bracelet of dark hair fastened by a Cameo. A pelerine of tulle embroidered en colonnes, is bordered by a double trimming of broad lace of a Vandyck pattern, and is surmounted at the throat by a full ruff, made of several rows of narrow lace. Cottage bonnet of satin, the colour, canary yellow, trimmed with pink gros de Naples, and ribbon; the bonnet ties close under the chin. The half-boots, are of green silk.

A SECOND WALKING DRESS.

A dress of jaconot muslin, with a border of the oriental kind, richly embroidered above a hem of moderate breadth. The corsage a l’enfant, with a plaiting of tulle across the tucker part of the bust. Sleeves a l’imbecille, with a very full and broad ruffle on the left arm, and on the right a cuff, with a black velvet bracelet, clasped by a cameo head set in gold.

HKAD AND BUST OF A WALKING DRESS.

A canezou spencer of muslin, with a pelerine of the same, trimmed round with very broad lace, of a rich Vandyck pattern; the pelerine embroidered in stripes, and surmounted by a full ruff of narrow lace; under which is a froncee cravat of etherial blue and jonquil; a bow and pointed ends of each colour in front. A hat of fine straw, lined with pink, with a bandeau and rosettes of the same colour under the brim. The crown ornament with bows of broad pink ribbon, with hair-stripes of black.

A WALKING DRESS.

A pelisse of white or of some light-coloured lawn, or jaconot muslin, trimmed down the front of the skirt where it closes with ornaments en fers de cheval; when the pelisse is white these ornaments are of fluted lace; when coloured they are generally of the same material as the dress. In the hollow made by the horse-shoe, is a narrow strap fastening by a gold buckle. The body is made quite plain, and fits tight to the shape; the waist encircled by a belt, with an oblong gold buckle. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, and are confined at the wrist by a cuff, with double ruffles of lace at each side, and these are divided by a bracelet of dark hair, fastened by a simple gold slide. A muslin pelerine is worn over the shoulders, with a double full trimming at the edge, of fluted muslin; the pelerine fastens down the front by small gold buttons, and is surmounted by a triple ruff of lace. The hat is of white chip, elegantly trimmed with gauze ribbons.
N.B. A back view, half length, of the same dress.

A DINNER DRESS (A SITTING FIGURE).

A dress of very light fawn coloured gros de Naples, with two flounces round the border of the skirt, edged and headed by scarlet chenille. The corsage a l’Edith, finished by narrow rouleau-binding of scarlet satin. Sleeves a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by broad, light cuffs, fastened by two buttons: on the right wrist, a broad, plain bracelet of gold: the dress made square in front of the bust, and cut very low from the shoulders. Hat of white gros de Naples, trimmed with broad gauze ribbon with satin stripes, and on the right side with a full bouquet of red and white full-blown Provence roses, their buds and foliage, with a few very light coloured blue-bells. Half-boots of gros de Naples, the same colour as the dress. Pearl-grey gloves. Necklace formed of a chain of gold with Girandole ornament.

A WALKING DRESS.

A dress of striped Indian taffety; the stripes lilac, on a white ground, with a broad hem round the border, headed by a fringe of lilac and white. Sleeves a l’imbecille, with an ornament at the wrist of richly embroidered tulle; beneath this, next the hand is a bracelet of white and gold enamel. A fichu pelerine of fine tulle, splendidly embroidered, and trimmed round with two broad, full frills of superb lace, the ends drawn through the sash is worn with this dress; it is surmounted next the throat by a double French ruff of lace, and is fastened in front with a rosette of white satin ribbon. The bonnet is of white crape, ornamented under the brim by rosettes of white satin, and crowned by large French marigolds, and their foliage. A parasol of dark grass green, is generally carried with this dress.
N.B. A back view of the same figure, in light fawn-colour, or Jaune-vapeur: the bonnet trimmed with white ribbon, with blue stripes.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS, FOR SEPTEMBER, 1829.

The “World of Fashion” in the country differs materially from that in London; the same luxury, however, is found in the various apartments of the spacious mansions belonging to our nobility and gentry, during their summer recess; and on the ottomane in the boudoir, is carelessly thrown the costly and valuable shawl from the valley, of Cachemire. In advancing to the smaller drawing-room, instead of finding a fantastic lady, arrayed in all the extreme of fashion, we behold a young and artless beauty, the wife or daughter of the owner of the domain, who, though environed by all that is magnificent, is often seen at nine in the morning, clad in a simple wrapping pelisse of white lawn, with a large Dunstable bonnet: such is the morning dress of most ladies of fashion in the country, for, wonderful to relate, she has just returned, at that hour, from an early morning walk, totally changed in her habits, as well as in her costume, from what she was in London.
But behold the same lady at a splendid dinner-party of ceremony, or evening party, a festive ball, or elegant fete, given on some family anniversary, at the public breakfast, or fete champetre; then we behold again, though with some alteration in the style of costume to that which heretofore prevailed in London, the woman of high fashion; every charm set off by the auxiliaries of blond and jewels, flowers, so beautifully executed, that they want only the fragrance of their native perfume, to render them equal to Flora’s choicest treasures, and all the labours of the loom employed in the unrivalled fabrication of figured gauzes, summer satins, and in brocaded and painted silks.
Of the last mentioned article, we have seen three dresses, finished for a beautiful mother, and her two blooming daughters; the ground of this rich material was of a charming and chaste colour, between a lavender and a tourterelle; over this was a running pattern, appearing like rich embroidery, of the most brilliant colours, representing roses of a diminutive size, in full bloom, and of different shades, with foliage of glosssy and bright green: any elaborate kind of trimming at the border, would have destroyed the beauty of this splendid silk; one broad bias fold, therefore, constituted all the ornament; the body was slightly en gerbe, and the sleeves, though quite wide enough to be fashionable, had in them nothing outre. A dress of light lavender satin has appeared at a dinner-party, with deep flounces of rich white blond; the short sleeves were wide, cut in bias, and fluted; the body a la Circassienne. Chintz dresses, for home costume, are made with long and wide sleeves, with the corsage in drapery. White muslin dresses, particularly those of a clear kind, are much in request for afternoon attire, for young ladies. Among the several new dresses lately dispatched by MRS. BELL to a distinguished family near Cheltenham, is a very beautiful one of pink crepe-Aerophane, an article now in high favour for evening parties, and for the rural ball; it was superbly ornamented with bias folds and white blond; yet this rich trimming was perfectly light, and well adapted to the season: the corsage was finished at the back, and in front of the bust en chevrons breses. Printed striped muslins are in high favour; the patterns are of very brilliant colours, in detached bouquets of flowers. The boddice of these dresses are made with a stomacher in front, and lace behind.
Many of the long sleeves are now made a l’Amadis, but even these are too wide at the top of the arm, till below the elbow, whence they fall in ample folds; the other part is tight to the arm.
The manner of arranging the hair is in plaited braids and bows. Dress hats of white crape are ornamented with white plumage, in a very tasteful manner, sometimes with three very long white ostrich feathers; but the most admired fashion consists in a number of short feathers, playing gracefully over the hat. Blond caps are much worn in half-dress; and are very elegantly ornamented with gauze ribbon, but very few flowers are now worn in caps. A toque of pale blue satin, with a superb white plumage, was lately seen on the head of a lady of high rank, and excited much admiration. When flowers are worn on the hair, they are chiefly those of the harvest-kind; a few scarlet poppies, and ears of ripe corn, with two or three blue corn flowers; but nothing is reckoned more elegant on the hair, at dress parties, especially if the hair is dark, than a few strings of pearls, negligently entwined among the tresses; this, however, .is only suited to young ladies; married females of distinction, particularly middle-aged ladies, always wear, either caps of rich blond, tastefully made, turbans, or berets; dress hats, though still in favour, have not been so prevalent this summer, as they were for the last two years. The berets are most admired when of pale pink crape, and are worn either with or without feathers, according to the particular style of dress; the turbans are generally white, and are very wide and short at the ears; the same rules as to ornament may be observed with the turbans as the berets. Several hats of coloured crape have been seen in carriages: they are ornamented with white blond, and a few flowers of the autumnal season. Bonnets of pink gros de Naples are in high estimation; the brims are large, and very evassee; flowers of the same material, or of satin, of the fancy kind, are beautifully grouped together, and ornament the crown in front, and on the right side; very broad strings of gauze ribbon, richly figured, are slightly fastened below the chin, and the ends depend as low as the belt round the waist, having the appearance, in front, of an elegant throat-scarf. A favourite bonnet for the promenade is of straw-coloured gros de Naples, trimmed with bows of the same colour, with satin stripes of Parma-violet, a white blond at the edge, set on almost straight, or a ruche of the two mingled colours in the ribbon, completes the trimming on these bonnets, which are of the close cottage style; some ladies have no trimming at the edge the bonnet, but wear either a black or white long veil; these head-coverings seem so characteristic of the modest demeanour of an Englishwoman, at the morning promenade, that we cannot but regard them with much pleasure and wish that, with that native taste which is the peculiar portion of every delicate mind, they would not be such servile imitators of foreign fashions, even when disfiguring and ridiculous but shew how capable they are of elegant invention and of becoming patterns to others: these last mentioned bonnets are a proof of it; there is no French lady can be deemed a woman of fashion, if she does not wear such an one in her morning walks, and they are named in Paris Capotes Anglaises.
The way of ornamenting hats under the brims, is generally by a twisted bandeau of gauze ribbon across, terminating at each end by a rosette, which is thus placed over each temple; the strings, which float loose, are generally fringed at the ends. Many hats and bonnets of white watered gros de Naples are lined with coloured satin
In regard to out-door costume, it is now rather in an undecided state; the silk pelisses are generally trimmed with narrow ruches, or made quite plain, but in this there is nothing novel. Black velvet pelerine-mantelets, of an entire new form, with the ends dependent to the feet, have already appeared; they are pointed behind, and the point concealed under the sash, from whence they slope gracefully to each shoulder, and set off the shape, instead of disguising it like the former round pelerine; they are lined with slight satin, of some bright colour. Very elegant mantles of the demi-saison kind are in preparation for September, and will be much in request towards the latter part or the month.
The colours most admired are the marshmallow-blossom, pink, etherial blue, sage-leaf-green, amber, and straw colour,

NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.

HATS AND BONNETS.- One of the most admired ornaments on a white chip hat is a large poppy of pale pmk. Some white chip hats are lined with cherry-coloured crape, and adorned with a bouquet of cherry-coloured feathers. A hat ornamented with a branch of purple fox- gloves and ribbons of lilac gauze, is trimmed under the brim a la fiancee, by a broad fluted ribbon
A lady has been seen with a hat of white crape, ornamented with blond; a long branch of wild roses, – the white eglantine, – after having been carried round the crown, laid over the brim; beneath, and half over the brim, was a branch of rose-buds.
Double coquelicots made of feathers, and other red flowers, in bunches, are very favourite ornaments on Leghorn hats.
The most general way of trimming a Leghorn hat is to place in front of the crown five long white feathers ; two at the base, two a little higher, and the fifth another stage higher. On hats of crape is seen a bouquet on the right side of the crown, formed of roses and jessamine. The strings are trimmed with narrow blond.
At the public sitting of the Royal Institution was seen a straw hat, ornamented with a long branch of the sensitive plant, at the end of which was perched a bird with blue wings. A new way of ornamenting the brim of a hat, consists in plaiting the material instead of spreading it out and thus forming a kind of fan, either to the right or to the left.
Some bonnets of corded silk have a blond at the edge not full at all, but set on straight; this blond is very narrow. A large bow is placed in front of the crown, edged round in the same manner with blond; white chip hats are often seen ornamented with a branch of gilliflowers, or of marsh-mallow blossoms.
Hats formed of ribbons sewn together are very numerous some of them have a blond which is in lieu of the last row of ribbon round the brim; it is sustained on one side of the head by a ribbon fluted like a fan and fastened round the caul, and round the brim is a plaited ribbon, which is supported by wired ribbon. The crown is trimmed with a few light bows. There have been seen some very pretty bonnets of blue crape, trimmed with bows of white gauze ribbon, and surrounded by a demi-veil of blond. Some chip hats are lined with cherry-colour or jaune-vapeur; a broad ribbon forms a bow on the crown, from whence descend long ends which form the strings; these hats are copied from the last new English hats a la Lavinia.

WHALEBONE HATS. For these few last years it seems that a taste for whatever is extraordinary has become pr valent, particularly since the genius of our romance-writers, and the sight of wonderful animals have placed all that before us. To amuse our imagination, we have seen much variety to attract our attention: we had a Cameleopard, a monstrous and learned elephant, and a great whale has been brought from the sea.
Fashion, upheld by coquetry and impressed by grateful feelings, has found in the ruins of these objects ornaments to charm us. From the teeth of the elephant she has formed a thousand graceful trinkets to decorate the dress of an elegant female; the thimble to guard her finger, and the fan to conceal a secret smile. No less ingenious now to comprehend all the advantages which may be derived from whalebone, she has reduced its gigantic beard into a tissue more fresh and delicate than any which has ever yet shaded the forehead of a pretty woman. The praise which it is our duty to bestow on an intention so new and so whimsical will be justified by the success which must attend it when it is known, and the annals of fashion will long preserve the remembrance of the whalebone-gauze, as a triumph of skill, taste, and originality. We who are ever searching after all that is novel, partisans of all that is graceful, we take upon ourselves to inform the fashionable world that the whalebone hats are indicative of the most charming fancy that has evinced itself for a long period of time; that their transparency, their lightness, their beautiful tints, form a composition the most advantageous to the countenance, to which they give grace and elegance; and the eye will feel less wonder in looking at the monstrous cetaceous mass extended over the place Louis XV. than in seeing on the sofa of some sumptuous boudoir, beside of an Indian Cachemire shawl and a veil of English lace, a hat of whalebone.

MISCELLANEOUS. – Half-boots and shoes are either of lady-bird-brown, Spanish-fly-green, or pearl-grey; the shoes are cut very low at the quarters.

Pocket-handkerchiefs of lawn, with the corners embroidered in gold, are much used by the higher classes. The most elegant have a wreath of small pinks just above the hem.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to October 1829

Back to August 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

RUSSIAN (MOSCOW) COURT, OR GALA DRESS.

When we presented our readers with the costume of a lady of Moscow, in a preceding number, it was one adopted to general wear, and a little more in unison, by some alteration in the corset, &c,. with courts which have long been accustomed to the ease and grace of polished life, to be gained only by intercourse with other nations, continually in search of improvement.
The costume now represented in our engraving, is truly Russian, in all its ancient grandeur, as may be seen by the unsowed waist, and the native richness and magnificence of the whole attire. It is such as is worn on high court festivals, or on some splendid celebration of a great anniversary
The robe is of the richest Genoa velvet, of a bright crimson, the border ornamented with a broad gold lace; from the tucker, down the front of the bust and the skirt, is another gold lace, still broader, and this is richly ornamented with rubies, set round with pearls. The train is lined throughout with ermine, and is adorned also with precious stones, and the black eagle of Russia, worked in embossed embroidery. The easy and unconfined waist is inclosed in a corsage, with a twisted oriental shawl, forming a cordon round the waist, carelessly tied in a knot in front, and the ends superbly fringed with gold: this shawl is of a thin and very light texture, being of Japanese-gauze and gold. The sleeves are long, and of white Japanese-gauze; they are confined at the wrists by very broad gold bracelets, set with pearls and rubies. On each shoulder are epaulettes of gold bullion, in fringe. The hair is arranged a la Madonna, with a plat depending on each side, braided in the same manner as the hair of the Moorish ladies, with ribbon; this ribbon is of gold-colour. We should pronounce the head-dress singular, was it not very much in the beret style. It is of gold and crimson tissue, in antique kind of figures, and is enriched with oriental pearls: a long, white veil depends from the back of this coiffeure. The ear-pendants are magnificent; large, and of exquisitely fine pearls, in shape and fashion not unlike those of wrought gold, so much admired by the English females of the present day. The necklace, which is of inestimable value, from the scarcity of pear-pearls, is formed of one row of them, with drops exactly matching each other, and which are procured with extreme difficulty. Two gold chains, en cordon, fall over the bust; from the lower one is suspended the order of St. Anne; and beneath this hangs a collar, belonging to the order, of white and gold enamel. The shoes are of gold tissue. It is needless to observe that this superb costume, is that of a lady of the highest rank.

A WALKING DRESS.

A dress of Batiste de Laine, the colour of Nankin: the border of the skirt trimmed with two flounces, each edged by a fringe. The sleeves a l’Imbecille, the fulness confined at the wrist by a band; large fichu-pelerine of tulle, trimmed with a double full ornament of lace, and finished just below the throat by a double ruff, fastened in front by a bow of pink ribbon. A hat of white chip, ornamented by a pink exotic flower, with branches of its green foliage. The brim of the hat is trimmed underneath with a bandeau and bows of pink ribbon; the strings are placed under the brim, and float loose. The half-boots are of the same colour as the dress.
N. B. A back view of the same figure, in a dress of celestial-blue, of which colour are also the flowers, and ribbons on the hat.

A CARRIAGE DRESS.

A dress of fine India muslin, with a very broad hem, finished at the top in points, trimmed at the edges with a full ruche of lace. Upon the hem, which forms the border beneath these points, is a beautiful pattern in embroidery, forming diamond-chequers, in every one of which is a bouquet, exquisitely wrought in feather-stitch. The body is a la Roxelane, and the sleeves a la Mameluke, which terminate by a broad cuff with a point, and are trimmed round by a ruche of lace; the mancherons correspond, in being pointed and finished by the same trimming. A narrow tucker formed of a full ruche of lace surrounds the bust. The hat is of straw-coloured gros de Naples; ornamented under the brim with points of straw-coloured satin, edged round with narrow blond; the crown is adorned with very full bouquets of the blue flower, “Forget me not;” and a white blond veil is generally added: the hat ties down with a lemon-coloured ribbon, striped with dark brown. A sash of pearl-grey ribbon incircles the waist; fastened in front with a gold buckle. On the wrist of the right arm, is a bracelet of black velvet, fastened with a cameo, set a l’Antique, in gold. On the left wrist is a bracelet of wrought gold.

A WALKING DRESS.

A printed muslin dress, the ground a pale buff, with large diamond checquers of white; these diamonds, by the disposition of the broad hem at the border of the skirt, become square; on the part which crosses, or points the checquer, is a beautifully coloured sprig. The broad hem is headed by a magnificent fringe, with a surmounting of open work. The body is partially high, and en gerbe, over which is a falling collar of the same material as the dress, and finished round by the same kind of fringe which is at the border. The sleeves are a la Marie, and are confined in the middle of the arm by a ribbon to match the colour of the dress, which is finished by a rosette on the outside of the arm, just below the elbow. A French ruff of fine lace in three rows, surmounts a fichu at the throat. The bonnet is of white gros de Naples, trimmed with striped gauze ribbon, the colour of the marshmallow-blossom, and ornamented with damask, and yellow roses. The brim underneath has three points of yellow and marshmallow-blossom satin on the left side. The half-boots are of buff kid, and the parasol of hermit-brown.

A CARRIAGE DRESS.

A pelisse of white striped gros de Naples, blue and straw- colour, on a white ground. The pelisse fastens down the front of the skirt by blue buttons, with long worked button-holes, in blue silk. The body is made with fichu robings, the under one of which, is blue, in flutings, the other the same as the dress: the sleeves are full but not quite a l’Imbecille, neither are they so wide as the Mameluke sleeves. The bonnet is the colour of the pomegranate rind, and is bound at the edge with celestial-blue. The crown is trimmed with full puffings of gauze the same colour as the bonnet, which is carelessly tied by a fold of this soft and gossamer-like gauze, en schal.

A CARRIAGE DRESS.

A dress of celestial blue gros de Naples, finished at the border by a broad hem, headed by a rouleau of blue, four shades darker; under this rouleau are ornaments en fer de Cheval, edged with a narrow frill trimming, the same colour and material as the dress, but the trimming headed by a narrow rouleau, the same colour as that which surmounts the broad hem. The corsage is made to fit the shape, but is rendered very wide in front by quadruple fichu-robings; there are, in fact, five of these, but the fifth turns over only like a small lapel: they are all edged by a very narrow blond, headed by a dark blue rouleau. The back of the corsage is finished in the same manner, and just below the throat is a double ruff of blond. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille, with an embroidered cuff of white muslin ruffled on each side by rather narrow lace. Above the cuff are embossed ornaments in white silk embroidery. Over a very becoming cornette of blond is worn a leghorn hat, trimmed with white ribbon edged on each side with blue, and a blond ornament, with a rosette of ribbon in the centre, is placed under the brim on the right side. The hat is decorated with blue ostrich feathers. The half- boots are of Nankin, and the gloves are of a very light colour beautifully embroidered at the back of the hand.
N.B. A back view of the same dress in pink; with the hat ornamented with white ribbons and plumage.

A WALKING DRESS.

A dress of cream-coloured taffety, bordered by a broad hem, headed by a green satin rouleau, placed slightly en serpentine. Over this is a beautiful embroidery of green fern in floize silk, of Pomona-green. The body is en gerbe, with a belt round the waist, embroidered to correspond with the work at the border of the skirt. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, but only of a very moderate fulness. The mancherons are pointed, and finished round by green silk embroidery, and a broad cuff at the wrist is ornamented in the same manner, divided in the centre, on the right wrist, by a gold bracelet, fastened by a white cornelian, set in gold. The body of the dress is made square across the front, rather low on the shoulders, and the tucker part surrounded with green silk embroidery. A hat of white gros de Naples, with very broad strings of white gauze ribbon, striped with sage-green; these ornaments of the same ribbon, doubled, is placed under the brim on the right side. The summit of the crown is slightly trimmed with white gros de Naples, en bateau, and adorned by a full bouquet of white and red roses: on the left side, at the base of the crown, is another bouquet of the same kind of flowers, fastened by a bow of gauze ribbon, the same as the strings. The half-boots are of kid, the same colour as the dress, with marshmallow-blossom kid at the point of the foot.

A DINNER-PARTY DRESS.

A dress of white muslin, with a border of the rose-geranium in silk embroidery. The body quite plain, trimmed round the bust with two narrow pink satin rouleaux. The sleeves a l’Imbecille, with a narrow ruffled cuff at the wrist. A dress hat of white crape adorned with pink aigrettes, and pink and white gauze ribbon. Ear-pendants of gold. A scarf of pink barege, with a delicate fringe at the ends, is thrown over this dress, which is completed by lavender-coloured shoes of gros de Naples, tied en sandales.

A WALKING DRESS.

A dress of fawn-coloured jaconot muslin, with two broad flounces, set on rather scanty; at the edges of which are embroidered branches of fancy foliage, in scarlet, and myrtyle-green. Over the head of the upper flounce, is an ornament worked in both colours. The body is a la Circassienne, and is confined by a belt, embroidered in the same manner as the ornament above the upper flounce. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, and very full: they are confined at the wrists by a band of embroidery, corresponding with the belt, &c. The bonnet is of Leghorn, with bows and strings of straw-coloured ribbon. A double gold chain, with large links, ornaments the neck. The parasol is of milk-chocolate colour, lined with sea-green. The half-boots of Nankin, the same colour as the dress.

AN EVENING DRESS.

A dress of white gros de Naples, with two flounces at the border, finished at each edge with a flat rouleau of white satin, over which is a delicate painting in wreaths of various coloured flowers, the head of the upper flounce ornamented in the same manner. Body en gerbe, with a plain belt of white satin. The front of the bust made square across, and elegantly finished by painting and quilled blond. Sleeves a l’Imbecille, confined at the wrists by white and gold enamelled bracelets, fastened by a ruby. The hair arranged in full curls, on each side of the face, and bows on the summit, ornamented with green foliage. Girandole ear-pendants and Greek necklace of gold.

A WALKING DRESS.

A pelisse of gros de Naples, the colour dust-of-ruins, made en tunique, with a delicate pencil-work on white silk. The skirt fastens down the front with buttons. Body en gerbe, with sleeves more in the jigot form than a l’Imbecille, though properly neither. A black velvet bracelet confines the sleeve at the wrist, fastened with a white agate set in gold. A pelerine cape with a falling collar finishes the corsage; each edged round by the same trimming which borders the tunique. Transparent capote bonnet of white crape trimmed at the edge with a ruche of blond. Long puffs of crape, edged with blond, complete the trimming on the crown. Half-boots of gros de Naples, the same colour as the pelisse.

A WALKING DRESS.

A dress of lavender-coloured muslin with a broad hem at the border, headed by a double zig-zag ornament of grass- green in satin rouleaux. Sleeves a l’Imbecille. Fichu-canezou of white Batiste, painted with flowers of different colours. Bonnet formed of white and green ribbons, and trimmed with full bows of the same. Strings floating loose.
N.B. Back view of the same figure in white, with a bon- net formed of blue and fawn-coloured ribbons.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS, FOR AUGUST, 1829.

Our splendid drawing rooms, so lately thronged with beauty, rank, and fashion, are now about to be entirely deserted; the latter end of July witnessed many departures from London, and in the short space of ten days, we may expect a total cessation to that cortege of coroneted carriages, which we have been accustomed to view in the fashionable morning drive; many of these carriages, we have since seen, with their four post-horses, carrying off their noble owners to their country-seats; or on visits previous to such retirement, to Cheltenham, and other salubrious situations.
The last meeting at Almack’s, and two or three splendid dinner and evening parties, given by the few nobility remaining in town, just after the sojourning of parliament, were distinguished by the elegant and superb dresses of the ladies. At Almack’s were observed more young ladies than have been seen there some time; but when well chaperoned, this is as it should be. With such the dresses were, of course, more simply elegant than rich.
There were not many dress hats among the matrons; what there were, offered a new kind of shape, and were very transparent; they had very much the appearance, in front, of a summer beret, being placed very backward. Nothing can be more charming than the present arrangement of the hair for young persons; simplicity, grace, and elegance, are so admirably united, that there is scarce any countenance but what is embellished by the easy flow of the ringlets, and the light transparency of the clustered curls. Flowers of very beautiful workmanship are often added, but for very young ladies, the summer season makes them generally satisfied with the attractive ornament, which bounteous nature may have bestowed on them. We have seen one young married lady, with a toque of pink crape; and next the hair was a chain-bandeau of the most valuable pearls. One of the newest and most elegant coiffeures for half dress, is a turban cap of white tulle, cut in bias, and doubled; it is trimmed and lapetted with coloured crape sewn together; lilac and yellow, and ornamented with two branches of that lovely shrub, in flower, the Hypericum fuetrix. Caps of broad, and richly figured blond, tastefully trimmed with striped gauze ribbons, of light summer colours, are much worn in deshabille by our matrons, who, in morning costume, tie them under the chin, with a bow on the left side. For the breakfast table, when ladies make three different toilets in the day, the caps are of thread lace, of a very fine quality; and the rosettes are chiefly composed of lace, with a very small quantity of white satin ribbon.

Much variety and taste is now observable in the summer hats and bonnets; and England may boast of being gifted with the powers of invention, in an equal degree with her neighbours on the continent: one of these new English head-coverings is of watered gros de Naples, the colour bird-of-paradise yellow. It is trimmed with gauze ribbon, with satin stripes, and this ribbon is disposed in long puffings; a conspicuous ornament, en aile de Moulin, appears on the right side, in front of the crown, and is trimmed round with black blond. A beautiful ribbon of white gauze is fluted under the brim. An elegant hat, of a novel kind in shape, and extremely becoming, is of a French-white figured silk, with bows of striped gauze ribbon, and ornamented by three plumes boiteuses, set round the crown at equal distances from each other; the colours in each feather are green and lilac. A very beautiful bonnet is of Spring-green, lined with white, and trimmed with green and white ribbons, sewn together, and ornamented by a wreath of pink and white Dahlias; a puffed bandeau, of green and white ribbons, crosses the forehead under the brim; and a mentonniere of blond fastens the bonnet under the chin. A yellow crape summer hat for the carriage, is trimmed with yellow ribbon of striped gauze, and crape, disposed about the crown, en fers de Cheval: small bows of the ribbon are placed in each interstice. Another transparent carriage hat is of white crepe Aerophane, trimmed with pink crape, and narrow pink satin rouleaux; a bow is placed on each side, at the edge of the brim, from whence float lappets of pink crape, doubled in bias. Two esprit feathers of pink and white, adorn the crown. Matronly ladies wear bonnets for the promenade of fine leghorn or chip, with bows of grass-green ribbon, and a full ruche of the same colour at the edge of the brim; these are of a charming and most becoming shape; but are reckoned most genteel when of straw coloured gros de Naples, or of some other light summer tint, in preference to those bonnets, however close, and retiring, of straw or Leghorn; the most distinguished females always preferring a hat or bonnet of silk or satin; the colours of the ribbons and ruche, are made to suit and correspond with that of the bonnet. One of the most elegant hats for carriage-airings, or morning visits, is of white gros de Naples, richly damasked over with satin flowers; it is very lightly trimmed about the crown, with white gauxe ribbon; but the broad blond at the edge of the brim, is of the most exquisite beauty; a sufficient ornament in itself; it excites universal admiration.
From the observations we are enabled to make, and from the authority, aided by the kind intelligence imparted to us by Mrs. Bell, whose taste and science, insure the patronage and support of the most distinguished class of females, we have long maintained the truth of an opinion we have seldom been deceived in, that women of real rank and fashion never to go to the extremes of a mode, which is especially, in itself, ridiculous or awkward. We have had a proof of this in a pelisse very recently made for a lady of high rank and known elegance of taste, who gave charge to have the sleeves made only of a very moderate fulness; as this beautiful pelisse is to be worn during a sojournment in the North, where the mornings and evenings are offen chill, it is of merino, but of the finest and softest texture; the colour, a celestial-blue. It is made en tunique, which part of the skirt is trimmed with ruches; the body is plain, and made without a collar; a tippet of embroidered muslin, or clear lawn, or a scarf, supplying the place of a cape. From the waist to the feet it is fastened down the front with small tulipleaf-rosettes, with a silver buckle, in the centre of each. Another pelisse calculated for the cool, early morning walk, or for making short journies in the surrounding country, is of a bright light shade of cinnamon-brown in gros de Naples. It is finished by a very broad border, at the bottom of the skirt, of etherial-blue plush-silk, with a collar and broad cuffs of the same; in other respects the pelisse is made extremely plain. Both the above out-door dresses prove the judgment of the English ladies, in being thus prepared for rural rambles in this our uncertain climate. Pelerines of fine muslin, splendidly embroidered, with those of blond for the carriage, and for coverings on the shoulders at the theatre, are now the order of the day, when the weather is sufficiently mild to dispense with any warmer envelope. The embroidery, or those of muslin over every part, and down the long ends, which descend lower than the knees, is superb; and the manner in which those of blond are trimmed, is exquisitely beautiful ; the bordering, which is set on full, is generally of a Vandyck pattern. They are, certainly, rather too large, but not to such excess as they were.
White dresses are not so prevalent as they were in the month of June, at the latter part; the continual rains, during so great a part of July, considerably decreased their favour ; and dresses of gros de Naples, even of dark or retired colours were preferred, particularly those of slate-colour, milk-chocolate, and cinnamon-brown; they were trimmed in various ways, broad bias tucks, one flounce headed in the most ingenious manner, and en ruches. The boddice either en gerbe, or fitting tight to the shape, according as is most suited to it; though the Circassian drapery is becoming to almost every bust, and is much in favour.
Among the most beautiful of the new printed muslins, we have seen one with a delicate buff, or light Nankin-coloured ground, with detached bouquets of elegantly-varied flowers, of the most brilliant, though not gaudy, tints, scattered over it; one also of a light, yet bright blue, has a delicate chintz pattern of a running kind, and is greatly admired for morning home costume. Coloured crape dresses, with very short sleeves, constitute the most favourite rural, ball, and evening attire for young ladies. Indian taffeties, also, worked in flat embroidery, form an elegant costume for the evening or the dress dinner-party; these truly splendid robes have a very broad hem at the border, over which is a wreath of flowers, in the most exquisite embroidery.
We have lately seen a very charming dress of richly embroidered tulle, and another of French white gros de Naples, with a very deep flounce of blond; these dresses were completed for a full dress evening party.
The colours now most in favour, are, etherial-blue, buff, milk-chocolate, slate-colour, cinnamon-brown, yellow, and lilac.

NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.

HATS AND BONNETS. – Some bonnets have been seen formed of ribbons and blond, alternately sewn together. A few puffs of gauze ribbons placed very sparingly, constitute their sole ornament. Almost every hat, not excepting those of Leghorn, is fastened under the chin by a mentonniere of blond.
The French begin to be reconciled to the physiognomies of their countrywomen under what they name English bonnets, which are now becoming universally the mode. In a few days’ time they will, without doubt, pronounce those hats enchanting, which for so many years they pronounced horrible. But such are the effects of fashion. They are now so habituated in seeing a narrow brimmed bonnet tied close over the cheeks, that they are ready to pronounce every one charming so accoutred. The fact is, that these bonnets, by the simplicity and convenience of their form, have great advantages, which appear to have been better appreciated by the ladies in the country than in Paris. The Leghorn hats are becoming larger in the brim all round. Trefoil is a favourite ornament on these hats. Bonnets of open straw are very general; they are lined with bright rose-colour, and the crowns are large. Some fashionists have produced a hat called Marsellais; the crown is low and flat; the brim is also flat and quite round; it is about six inches in breadth; it is edged with blond, with which also the crown is trimmed.

OUT-DOOR COSTUME. The canezou-spencers are of embroidered muslin, and over white dresses they form a favourite costume for the promenade: pelerines also, the same as the dress are much worn; they are larger than usual, and descend very low over the shoulders.
A white canezou-spencer has lately been remarked at a public promenade, with a broad jacket-flap behind.
During the unpropitious weather through a great part of July, Cachemere shawls formed a favourite out-door envelope.
On white dresses are often seen small pelerines of coloured silk, elegantly embroidered. For morning walks the pelerines are of white jaconot muslin, trimmed round with the same; the collar is square and falls over. Some pelerines of muslin are laid in small separate plaits; four and four together, with a space between.

DRESSES. – At a ball lately given by the English ambassador, Organdy dresses embroidered in different colours, and India muslins beautifully worked in feather stitch, were among the most elegant costumes; the sashes were superb: some might be admitted as master-pieces of embroidery.
When a lady goes on a fishing excursion, she wears a jaconot pelisse with a pelerine, a straw hat a la Pamela, ornamented with a green ribbon round the crown; cambric pantaloons, finished at the ancles by two hems, leather shoes, and grey gaiters.
Pockets are very much in use, worn as usual under the dress, but they are of the same material, colour, and pattern, as the gown.
At balls and at fetes-champetres, short sleeves are much in favour.
The sashes and belts are almost all embroidered.
A dress of cherry-coloured muslin is much admired; the shoulders are still exposed. Several dresses of white muslin striped with red, are trimmed with fringes of red and white.
With dresses of gros de Naples half-boots are generally worn of the same colour and material as the dress.

HEAD-DRESSES. – Many young and pretty ladies adopt the English fashion of having their hair arranged in cork-screw ringlets, yet, perhaps, the next day the capricious Parisian will have her hair a la Chinoise.
Berets for evening parties are of crape, ornamented with flowers of a very beautiful kind; they are as light and delicate as marabout feathers.
Small caps of muslin are worn in dejeune costume; they have long lappets of lace, which tying under the chin, the ends are brought up to the summit of the caul, where they form a bow.
When a lady’s head-dress consists only of hair, the curls, &c. instead of being fastened with pins, are confined by small tridents, like three-pronged forks, composed of tortoiseshell.
Small morning caps are of embroidered tulle, with a band trimmed with lace, which ties in front of the cap, where it forms a bow, and another bow of lace is placed on the curls of hair over the temples.
Dress-hats are transparent, of rose-coloured crape or of blond: four bands, two of crape and two of blond, form the brim; the crown is high and en calotte; the base of it is of crape bouillone; the middle part of blond: upon this is placed a cluster of white flowers, or three feathers, two white and one pink: a demi-veil of blond surrounds the brim.
The fashionable morning caps are small, and many of them are trimmed with plain tulle, festooned in cocks-combs, and tied by scalloped tulle bands.

JEWELLERY. Collars, fastening close round the throat, called colliers de chien, Gallic rings, the most massive and Gothic, are much in fashion; but the newest style is to wear on the little finger a ring to which is suspended by a delicate little chain, a small perfume case, a smelling-bottle, or any other fancy bijou.

MISCELLANEOUS. It is the fashion in the country to spread over the breakfast-table a very fine tissue, formed of platted straw; to which is given the appellation of a Russian table-cloth.
They have also window-blinds, formed of rushes, cut in strips, which do not unite, in order that the air may circulate more freely; but these interstices are almost imperceptible, so much so, that the flowers which are painted on these blinds, appear perfectly correct.
Card-racks, named mirrors a la Psyche, consist of a long tablet, rather narrow, and representing a branch of flowers, in different sprays; on each of these sprays is fixed a butterfly, with its four wings expanded, and the back dis- played. The initials of the name of every butterfly corresponds with the day of the week, which is made to contain letters, notes, invitations, &c.
D. Dimanche. – A rose-coloured butterfly, called La Belle Dame.
Lundi, LAERTA. – A large pearl-coloured butterfly, the wings of which are lightly spotted with black.
Mardi, MARS CHANGEANT. – A butterfly so named, by reason of its colours reflecting a mixture of violet and crimson.
Mercredi, MENELAUS. – A magnificent blue butterfly.
Jeudi, JASON. – A large butterfly, with two tails very distinctly marked out, and beautifully ornamented.
Vendredi, VULCAN. – The wings presenting a black ground, striped with fire-colour, and spotted with the same, mixed with white.
Samedi, SYLVAN. – So named from this species being found in woods ; it is never seen on flowers ; it is of black, appearing like velvet, shaded with brown and white.
The card-racks are of white wood, from Spa, and are delicately painted ; though sometimes they are embroidered on white satin.
At one side of the first D. for Dimanche, is often represented a butterfly of Chinese green and black, named Dido.
The speculators on public carriages begin now to encumber Paris with oblong voitures. To the Omnibus, carriages drawn by three horses, were soon added les Dames Blanches, the Tricycles, the Favourites, Les Ecossaises, the Carolines, and the Bearnaises. In some certain streets the carriages formed compact files. Vainly was it asserted that the pedestrian might find safety on the footway. The populace, in spite of all the vigilance of the police, re dered this as narrow as possible, and sometimes their shops took it entirely up; for example, to display the draperies to advantage over the Magasins de Nouveautes, two shop-men would often take possession of the footpath, one carrying a roll of stuff, the other bearing a pole, with a hook at the end. To stretch out the material, as they unroll it, the pole must be eight or ten feet long, and before it is hooked up, must be kept in a horizontal direction.
Ladies of fashion have borrowed from the Duchess of Guise, the heroine of the drama, entitled Henry III., the mode of carrying a pocket-handkerchief, surrounded by gold lace.
Besides the balustrade belonging to the staircase of a well furnished mansion, there are heads of lions in gilt bronze, placed at equal distances, and through the mouths is drawn a thick cordon of silk.
The terraces in the country are ornamented with Dahlias. These flowers take their name from Dahl, a Swedish botanist.
The confectioners now ice cherries in the same manner they iced the oranges last winter; these cherries are served up like ice, in saucers.
Guetres and half-boots are made of spotted and striped materials; violet is a favourite colour for these articles of female attire; some half-boots of leather are made to lace up the front.

– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –

The following is another remarkable instance of the wonderful effects of OLDRIDGE’S Balm of Colombia, in restoring the hair.

Cambridge, April 17, 1829.

Gentlemen, Having fully experienced the salutary effects of your far famed Balm of Colombia, I hasten now to return you my most sincere thanks for the great benefit which I have derived from your Balm. I shall now proceed to state the particulars of the case, which, if you think proper, you are perfectly at liberty to make public. About December last my hair fell off my head very rapidly, and by the end of January, I had hardly any hair left, when a friend happening to mention your Balm to me, I resolved to purchase a bottle and try it, which I did, and found that it answered admirably, and that my hair began to grow very fast, and by the time I had used two six-shilling bottles I had a fine head of hair, which I continue to have.
I am, Gentlemen, your’s, &c.

(Signed) JAMES MACPHERSON.

To Messrs. C. and A. Olridge.

The Public are requested to observe, that, in consequence of the improvements, C. and A. OLDBRIDGE have removed from 361, Strand, to No. 1, WELLINGTON-STEET, Waterloo-bridge, Strand, where the Balm is sold wholesale and retail; and by most of the respectable Perfumers and Medicine Venders in London, and throughout the United Kingdom. Price 3s. 6d., 6s., and 11s. per bottle. Additional references will be given by the Venders, C. and A. Oldridge.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to September 1829

Back to July 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

COSTUME OF ALL NATIONS, NO. 41.

DRESS OF A FEMALE ON THE BORDERS OF LAC MAGGIORE.

The females of these environs are not only remarkable for their Italian beauty, but also for a very peculiar kind of costume, which much sets off their outward attractions; and it is well known that, when they are habited like other European women, their beauty appears less striking.
The figure represented in our engraving may be regarded as a portrait, as it was actually taken from the life, and may be depended on as a classical representation of the most prevailing dress worn by the greater part of the females in the environs of Lac Maggiore.
The petticoat is of white satin, superbly ornamented at the border with rosettes in Chenille of bright crimson: these rosettes depend in rows, forming a very splendid border, and each row is headed by a bow of crimson ribbon, united together by a narrow rouleau of the same colour. The corsage is of black velvet or satin, with a kind of jacket-frill appendage round the waist, forming a sash; this also is crimson. In front of the corsage is a stomacher of yellow satin, checkered in crimson diamonds of ribbon, from whence depends a very narrow and short apron of the same. The sleeves are of Italian tiffany, white, and very full; a plain cuff confines them a little below the elbow; and the mancherons, instead of being loose, as they usually are, tighten the sleeve on the shoulder, and are formed en treillage, in crimson ribbon; a bow of which, with long ends, is placed on the top of each shoulder. The hair is arranged a la Madonna, and is ornamented with crimson Chenille, in a a very unique fashion; it is entwined among the cross braid of hair over that which is divided on the forehead; a full bow of the Chenille is then placed above each ear; and from these bows depend loops, at the termination of which is another bow just touching the shoulder. The other ornaments on the hair consist of a row, en aureole, of Glauvina-pins, with very long stalks of silver or gold, headed by ruby hearts. The ear-pendants are en girandoles, and are of finely-wrought gold. A black velvet-collar encircles the throat, fastened in front with a Chrysolite set in gold. The bracelets are of black velvet, clasped by a Cameo. Slippers of bronze-coloured satin, are laced en sandales.

WALKING DRESS.

A pelisse of white jaconot muslin, en tunique, embroidered down the sides, and over the broad hem which surrounds the border, in a delicate pattern of green. The body, en gerbe, confined round the waist by a small bow, with very long and broad ends, embroidered in a correspondent manner with the pelisse; as is a double pelerine cape and falling collar, which finish the corsage. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille, and are confined at the wrists by broad gold bracelets. The bonnet is of white chip, ornamented under the brim with stripes and points of white satin. The trimming on the bonnet is of chip and satin, disposed en fers de Cheval; among which are placed garden-lillies, and pale-blue larkspurs. The bouquet in front of the bonnet is larger and fuller than that on the left side. The strings are placed under the bonnet, and float loose.

WALKING-DRESS.

A pelisse of muslin embroidered down each side of the front, where it is left open, and also above the hem round the border of the skirt; this latter embroidery is, however, of a slighter pattern than that down the sides. The body is plain, and confined at the waist by a white watered-silk ribbon, fastened in front by a gold buckle. The sleeves are a l’Orientale, unconfined at the wrist, and are embroidered next the hand. A double pelerine falls over the shoulders, each bordered with embroidery, and terminated by fringe or lace. A ruff, approaching to the commencement of the throat, finishes the pelerine; this is triple, and of fine lace, fastening in front by a bow of white satin ribbon. The hat is of white chip, trimmed with spring-green ribbon and branches of willow: a cornet of blond is worn underneath

FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.

FIG. 1. A carriage-hat of white chip; ornamented under the brim with white gauze striped ribbon. Full plume of white Marabout feathers in front; a smaller one drooping over the right side of the brim.
FIG. 2. A back view of the same hat.
FIG. 3. A back and front view of a crape hat, the colour of the Chinese-rose, trimmed with ribbons of the same colour, edged with hair-stripes of black, richly ornamented with white blond, and two esprits of green and fawn-colour.
FIG. 4. Front and back view of a promenade-hat of white gros-de-Naples, trimmed with white striped gauze ribbon: with a very broad blond at the edge of the brim.
FIG. 5. Front and back view of a blond cap; the double borders of which, in a Vandyck pattern, are turned entirely back. A rouleau of Corn-flower-blue ribbon surrounds the hair in front, with bows in three long loops over each temple. Similar bows are placed at the back of the head, with a rouleou separating the caul from the borders.

WALKING AND MORNING DRESSES.

DRESS THE FIRST.

A dress of celestial-blue gros de Naples, chequered in diamonds, in a hair stripe of darker blue. Two ornaments, set on flounce-wise, surround the border; they consist of points, waving across in bias; the points are edged by a dark blue rouleau; and each flounce-ornament is headed by a rouleau the same colour as the dress. The corsage is a la Roxelane; the front of the bust formed en chevrons, by rouleaux of light blue. The body is cut very low from the neck and shoulders, and surrounded by a falling tucker of lace; one row of which forms a mancheron over the. short sleeves. A bonnet of white chip is ornamented underneath with celestial blue ribbon; and the crown has a few bows of the same ribbon: in the front are placed two arched wreaths of flowers, one above the other; the lower arch consisting of very small roses, thickly grouped together; the upper, of blue bells. Long, broad strings of blue striped gauze ribbon float loose. Ear-rings and necklace of opal, set in gold a l’antique; bracelets of gold clasped with a cameo. Shoes of celestial blue kid, en sandales.

CENTRE FIGURE.

A pelisse of fine jaconot muslin, with a very broad hem round the border, of muslin, embroidered in large, diamond chequers; this ornament is headed by a full ruche of clear muslin, and the ruche surmounted by scalops, richly embroidered in spots; down the front of the skirt of the pelisse, where it fastens, is a ruche to correspond with that round the border, at one side of which are scalops embroidered in spots. The body is en gerbe; and is confined round the waist by a ribbon in a Chinese pattern, in the front of which is placed a rainbow fan, spread open, and seeming to form a part of the body en gerbe. The ends of the sash, which depend in front, are very broad and long ; and are of white ribbon, striped a la Chinoise, with canary yellow, blue, and marshmallow blossom, the same colours which form the stripes across the fan. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille, with a very broad cuff, tight at the wrist, the upper part only ruffled. A bracelet, consisting of two rows of coral beads, incircles the left wrist. A pelerine of fine India muslin, surrounded by a ruche of tulle, covers the neck, and is surmounted by a double ruff of lace, tied in front with a ribbon the same as the sash. The hat is of white gros de Naples, turned up slightly on the right side, with notched ends, formed into a rosette, of pink and white ribbon ; white gauze ribbons, with pink stripes, form the strings and ornaments on the hat, with beautifully grouped flowers, bent archwise in front, and a bouquet on the left side: they are chiefly red roses with their green foliage.

THIRD DRESS.

A dress of a light fawn Organdy, with a flounce round the border, embroidered in separate branches of blue and jonquil-coloured foliage, in coloured crewel: above this flounce is a rich border of embroidery, consisting of yellow and blue field flowers; these are surmounted by detached branches of foliage, corresponding with those on the flounce. The body is en gerbe, and is finished round the bust by a Paladin cape, embroidered at the edge in blue and yellow: under the dress is worn a fichu, surmounted by a double ruff of lace. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille; embroidered next the shoulder with dependant branches of blue and yellow foliage. At the wrist is a cuff, headed by antique points, which only are perceptible; the rest of the cuff being concealed by a broad bracelet of hair, fastened by an emerald, on the left hand, and a cameo on the right. The sash is embroidered to correspond with the work on the dress. The hat is of fine leghorn; and is ornamented under each side of the brim by a rosette of Cerulean blue ribbon, edged on one side by yellow; the hat ties under the chin by a mentoniere of blond, on the right side, with blue and yellow ribbon: three branches of fancy flowers, of the bell kind, wave in front of the crown, in the style of feathers; they are blue and yellow. Black kid half-boots complete the dress.
N.B. Back view of a Leghorn hat, trimmed with white, and Chinese rose-coloured ribbon: with branches of rose- Canterbury-bells, disposed like feathers.

EVENING AND WALKING DRESSES.

DRESS THE FIRST.

A dress of Lavender gros de Naples, with two flounces round the border, cut in points at the edges; the upper flounce headed by ornaments in triple points. A canezou spencer of embroidered tulle is worn over the dress, with the body made tight to the shape, and finished by a fichu-pelerine, with the cape cleft at the shoulders, and trimmed round with lace. A double lace ruff incircles the throat, with a bow of lavender ribbon in front. Sleeves a l’Imbecille, with very broad bracelets of white and gold enamel, fastened by a cameo head. A hat of white chip, ornamented with green and white feathers: a bow of green and white ribbon is placed under the brim on the right side. Neapolitan ear-rings in Mosaic. Half-boots of spring-green satin.

DRESS THE SECOND.

Over a white muslin petticoat, with two broad rows let in across of embroidered muslin, is worn a pelisse of corn-flower-blue watered gros de Naples. The pelisse is made without sleeves, and the collar turns back en schal; under the pelisse is worn a canezou of fine India muslin, laid in small plaits. The sleeves a l’Imbecille, with very broad plain cuffs, sitting close to the wrists. A jeannette collar of black velvet, with its gold ornaments, depends from the throat ; but the cross is not a la Jeannette; it is of the Maltese kind. The hat is of corn-flower blue crape, ornamented under the brim with points of satin, between which are quillings of blond. The crown is adorned with a profusion of blond, and two white esprit feathers on the right side: very long strings of broad blue ribbon, depend from each side of the hat.

FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES, &c.

FIG. 1. – A half-length back view of the figure above described.
FIG. 2. – Back view of a white chip hat, trimmed with pale pink and white ribbon, with a plume of pink feathers.

FOURTH DRESS.

A dress of gros de Naples, the colour, Egyptian-sand; over two rouleaux of the same, next the shoe, is a very deep flounce, beautifully embroidered at the edge in a pattern of corn-flowers; elegant bouquets of which are worked on the dress above the flounce. The body is en gerbe, with a pointed zone, embroidered to suit the flowers on the skirt. The sleeves a la Mameluke, of a very moderate fullness, confined at the wrists by gold bracelets fastened by an emerald set in gold. A pelerine of fine muslin, fastens behind, and is surrounded by a superb broad lace, and a very full quadruple ruff of narrow lace surrounds the throat, yet not approaching too near the chin. A hat of white gros de Naples is beautifully ornamented with double exotic flowers of a cornflower-blue, with a light green esprit on the right side, and a few ears of corn on the left. Beneath the brim, at its edge, on the right side, is a small bouquet of the flower, “Forget-Me-Not,” and ears of ripe corn.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR JULY, 1829.

Very few have, as yet, been the departures for the country ; and they have taken place chiefly on account of declining health, or to preserve that of the younger part of a family, who may be at home for the summer recess. The capital, at the present moment, is a scene of splendour, from the numerous members of rank and fashion which grace her public walks, her elegant and scientific morning amusements, and her public spectacles.
True, these glories are arrived at their zenith, and ere another month shall have passed away, they will be fading from the horizon of our now gay metropolis; but the splendid parties given by royalty, and by the nobles of the land, have afforded lately by their brilliancy, an unrivalled scene of taste and magnificence, and have, also, it is hoped, been beneficial to native talent and industry.
A very beautiful bonnet for the carriage morning visiting dress, is of white crape, finished about the crown by ornaments of the same material, and with blond; under the brim are inlacings of white satin; and on the crown the puffs and ornaments are relieved by very light aigrettes of real marabout white feathers, being placed between, one of which appears beneath the left side of the brim. Another elegant carriage bonnet is of striped blond gauze, pink on white, and on the white space between the pink stripes, is a narrow variegated stripe of various colours, in brocade. This bonnet is ornamented by folds and en bateaux of pink satin, and of the same gauze-blond as the bonnet; the bows and strings, which latter are in a loop, are of steam-yellow satin, and plain pink doubled gauze, sewn together.
Among the new head-dresses is a cap for demi-parure, of tulle, the borders doubled in bias, and crowned by straw-coloured ribbons, long strings of which, in striped gauze, float loose. A cap, fitted for the theatre, is of rich blond, trimmed with Jaune-vapeur, striped gauze ribbon, and ornamented under the broad border, which turns back, over each temple, with bouquets of white, purple, and yellow narcissusses; these flowers are all double. A dress hat for the opera or for an evening party is of white clear net, lined with blue crepe- aerophone, and trimmed with the same, and with white tulle : two very long strings or lappets depend from the right side; they are formed of long puffings of white and blue crepe-aerophane; under the brim is a bandeau of the same, which crossing the forehead, terminates by a bar on the right side. A plume of blue ostrich feathers finishes the hat. A most superb dress-hat for a grand evening party, or for the opera, is of pink crape, bound with a bias edge of pink satin; an ornament of broad white blond appears, slightly full under the right side of the brim, with a loop of pink gauze ribbon; and a most splendid willow plumage of pink and white feathers, in stripes crosswise, covers the crown, and plays with grace and elegance over the brim. A dress hat for dinner parties, in rural excursions, is of white stiffened net, trimmed with white satin ribbon: under the right side of the brim is a small, full bouquet of white and crimson stocks, and a light plume of white marabouts waves over the crown. This hat is without strings, and the brim is very shallow behind, giving to the hat somewhat the appearance of a dress bonnet. A pink crape beret, with striped gauze pink ribbons, and worn either with or with-out feathers, according to the style of dress, is a very favourite coiffeure.
Except what we have represented in our engravings in the out-door department, there is scarce any change since last month, except the pelerine-mantelet of fine Indian muslin, richly embroidered, with long ends depending to the feet, the ends rounded. They are extremely elegant, as is the oriental pelisse of muslin, fringed and embroidered, and left open in front of the skirt; very loose sleeves of the true Persian kind, are left unconfined at the wrists.
The ball dresses consist of coloured crape, over white satin, and have nothing decisive as to the form of the corsages, or to their style of trimming, in which little alteration or novelty can be looked for, as they will now be so soon laid aside, except for the Fete Champetre, when, most probably, white tulle dresses will supersede every other.
The colours most admired are pink, etherial-blue, straw-colour, spring-green, violet, and jonquil.

NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.

HATS AND BONNETS. – Chesnut-blossoms, and those of the marshmallow, are favourite flowers on hats of every kind. Some white crape bonnets are ornamented with a wreath of blue-bells, with a wreath of the same flowers embroidered at the edge of the brim, and another underneath; in front of these bonnets is placed two bouquets of coquelicots, blue-bells, and ears of corn, disposed in a V.
Even in deshabille, a lady ought to have a superb demi-veil of blond round her hat. Bonnets, lined with rose-colour, prevail much in the country. All the flowers now worn on hats are placed in the style of feathers. Many bonnets are seen of green gros de Naples, tied down very close over the ears; there are also some bonnets, the fronts of which are of straw, and the crown of white gros de Naples.
There are some very charming bonnets made of ribbons sewn together; those of gauze are white and rose-colour, or blue and white ; they are placed alternately, and are surrounded by a broad blond; they are truly elegant. On white chip hats, are placed aigrettes of small feathers, half rose-colour and half white, or Jaune vapeur and white; these are much admired. White hats of gros de Naples are sometimes ornamented with a rosette, the two ends of which are finished by blue-feather fringe. A hat of white chip has been seen with six green feathers, placed one above the other.
Eight or ten tulips, with their green foliage, and feathers besides, often compose the ornaments on a leghorn hat; these flowers are placed in front of the crown. A Leghorn hat has been seen ornamented with gauze ribbon, appearing like blond; the colours ponceau and Chinese green: a branch of the winter-cherry, with its green leaves and scarlet fruit, surrounded the crown; the branch, by being bent, took a direction whereby it was lost under the brim. At the other part of the branch, at the summit of the crown, was perched a tom-tit, pecking at one of the cherries.
The way of trimming hats of gros de Naples, consists in placing at the front of the crown, a bias, in the form of an empty horn, and then filling this semblance of a horn with an abundance of flowers, thus rendering it a cornucopia. The horn is edged round with blond and a rouleau.
For the promenade in the fields or gardens, young persons wear straw bonnets; the brim is very large, and ties close down over the cheeks, they are lined with coloured gros de Naples; these bonnets have no other trimming than a band of ribbon, which encircles the crown, and of which the strings are formed.
Hats of straw, or white chip, are ornamented with branches of blue heath, placed in the manner of a bird-of-paradise plume; they are lined with blue crape, and a white blond veil is worn with them. There are some very charming bonnets of painted gros de Naples, which are trimmed at the edge of the brim with white blond: sometimes these bonnets have only the crown painted, and the brim is of white chip. The English hats are much worn in the morning walks, for shopping, and at coming from the baths. They are often of figured straw, and are lined with rose-coloured satin; they tie down with strings of the same, which constitute all their ornament. The riding-hats are of black beaver. Hats of white watered gros de Naples are bound and trimmed, with rose-coloured striped gauze ribbons. Under the brim is a bandeau with rosettes; above, bows and strings. Japanese roses are favourite, flowers on hats, and a demi-veil of blond is in universal esteem. Leghorn hats are lined with coloured gros de Naples. Green and white ribbons, with a double bouquet of lilies of the valley, are favourite ornaments on white chip hats; the ribbons cross the crown, in bias, and the bouquets are placed one on each side.

OUT-DOUR COSTUME. Cachemire shawls are worn when the weather is chill; when warm, scarfs of white lace are seen in the public walks.
Jacanot muslin pelisses arc much worn in the morning walks ; they are open before, and discover the petticoat; they are called pelisses a la Maitresse; on account of a favourite actress wearing such a dress in the dramatic piece “La Maitresse.”
Beneath the ruffs, worn round the neck, are collars, named a la fiancee; they consist of two points of taffety, or gros de Naples, of two different colours, which cross under a runner.
There are some new shawls, named Moresca-Cachemere; they are of two or three colours, and are ornamented at the corners by bouquets of flowers.
There are some pelisses of jaconot muslin, which are bordered by a very broad hem, separated from the other part of the skirt by letting in stripes of muslin, richly embroidered in feather-stitch. Almost all the shawls of Chinese crape have borders of different colours imprinted on them; but the most elegant are those which are worked in flat embroidery. In the country, a favourite out-door costume for young persons, consists of a plaited canezou with a petticoat of plain gingham. The canezou fastens by five or six buttons of gold, mother-of-pearl, or tortoise-shell.

DRESSES. Dresses of white muslin, or of Organdy, are very general; as are those of muslin, with very large patterns printed on them. Dresses of rose-coloured crape, with the corsage in drapery, have, above the broad hem at the border, which ascends as high as the knee, a full ruche, pinked, of rose crape.
Much care has been bestowed in giving firmness to the broad hems at the borders of dresses, in order that the skirt, which is still very short, may have that roundness which is now so particularly admired in ball-dresses. It has, indeed, been said, that some fashionable ladies have had whalebone introduced into the borders of their petticoats. One step more, and hoops may again become fashionable!
White canezous are so numerous, that to be distinguished in this way, they ought to be covered with embroidery, or trimmed with a profusion of lace, costing more than four or five times the price of the dress, over which they are worn. A young lady, recently married, having ingenuously expressed her partiality for this accessary to the toilet, found in her corbeille one so extremely beautiful, that for the space of a fortnight, it was an object of curiosity to all her female friends and acquaintance; it is estimated at six hundred franks.
It is not pleasant to be compelled to give always the true reason why fashions often bear a ludicrous though appropriate name; but the long and loose sleeves now worn without any support from the shoulder to the writs, are styled sleeves a l’imbecille.* {*And they are justly so named ; for they are exactly like those worn by the fool or clown in a pantomime, and the Chinese drolls, which perform such characters in their excellent plays. ED.}
At a fete extraordinary at Tivoli, a beautiful Italian wore a clear dress of printed muslin ; the ground, a Nankin colour, figured en colonnes, in Chinese designs ; the sleeves were a l’imbecille, with broad ruffles of embroidered tulle, and a pelerine to correspond. A very deep flounce bordered the dress; a scarf, called a printanniere, with flowers embroidered in coloured silks on a white ground.
Four very pretty young females wore dresses very tastefully trimmed; one was of slate-coloured gros de Naples, trimmed with tufted fringe; the second had a striped muslin dress, of a Persian pattern; the third a dress of Organdy, embroidered in oak-leaves, and acorns in green chervel; the fourth a dress of steam-yellow poplin.
High dresses are worn, and likely so to be during the sojournment in the country; they are made with a stomacher, and buttoned or laced behind. Some are of plain materials, and the front is cut in bias; others are plaited and stitched below the throat. The epaulettes descend very low, and the sleeves are kept in shape by a runner, and stitched at the opening at the wrists. With the above corsages a ruff only is worn, round the neck, and is of tulle. The bodies, which are made as canezous, are separate from the skirt. The cuffs come very low over the hands, and are ruffled.
A new kind of bias have appeared to embellish the summer evening costume, the charming shades of which seem to have been “dipt in the woof of Iris.” They are simple, graceful, and elegant. The tissue is of a transparent kind, and of a variety of colours ; these are named rainbows.
At the rural balls many ladies wear muslin dresses, the ground white, with a pattern over it of various colours, large green foliage with yellow and rose-coloured flowers, disposed in stripes ; these dresses are made with a a stomacher, and have sleeves a l’imbecille. The body is covered with a fichu of tulle, plain, with two stripes of embroidery let in. This fichu is in the form of a pelerine, and is edged round with narrow lace; its long ends are crossed over in front, and tie in a bow behind.
Perhaps it is to put an end, as soon as possible, to the the large sleeves, that they have been named, a l’imbecille. It must be confessed that they are universally adopted; however, a new form begins to appear; it is a l’amadis, very tight from the elbow to the wrist, while the upper part of the sleeve, which is extremely wide, falls above the elbow, like a kind of ruffle.
Fringes are universally used in trimmings. Above a broad hem have been seen points dependant, trimmed round the edges with fringe. Batistes are worn in every style of dress; they are often embroidered in colours, especially on white, and form a very pretty dress for the summer.
Dresses of straw-coloured Organdy are embroidered in wreaths of blue flowers; these represent heath, and are formed in stripes down the shirt, where they terminate above the hem by bunches of detached heath. The sleeves are of plain tulle, and are confined at the wrist by a cuff formed of a double row of pleated Alencon point lace, which lace trims the edge of the pelerine worn with this dress.
There is no change in the make of the riding-habits. Several have been seen of Swedish, the Merino, or of English green. At the promenades, and at the fetes-champetres, there are many dresses seen of muslin figured over in very large Persian patterns; while others have very small sprigs. In carriages are seen Egyptian patterns of every kind.
The most fashionable ginghams are those with very narrow and close stripes of rose-colour; the sleeves of such dresses are a l’imbecille, with the epaulettes formed like a half-moon. Two full, fluted flounces, finish the border of the skirt: the back and shoulders are much exposed. Most dresses are, however, bordered by a broad hem, over which are often three rows of flat braiding, placed apart from each other; over them a broad bias fold, surmounted also by three rows of braiding; this same kind of braiding is placed on the corsage, where it is out, away at the back and shoulders, and the front is en gerbe: this braiding, on coloured dresses, is white. The sashes are of bright jonquil, figured with brown, and these are named Chinese ribbons.
Every lady who goes to the nicety of fashion wears ruffles; they are of jacanot or embroidered muslin, and are only full next the wrist. Others have a frill at the wrist and also at the upper part. The ruffles are of fine muslin laid in small plaits, and edged with Valenciennes lace.

HEAD-DRESSES. The summer fashion of wearing the hair in evening dress, without any ornament, has commenced even among the members of royalty. The tresses are arranged in a bandeau over each temple, three bows on the summit of the head, and at their base a plat, which is wound round, to form the elevation. The dress hats are of white chip, with two tails of the bird-of-paradise placed end to end at the summit of the crown. A rosette of saffron-coloured ribbon fastens these feathers in front. Another rosette is placed at the base of the crown behind ; and a third, more full, is seen on the left side, almost at the edge of the brim. The ends of a ribbon, which, at the top, goes round the crown, are spread out, and are united to the last mentioned rosette. The strings of the hat are trimmed.
Caps, a la fiancee, are ornamented with blue flowers, they are placed very backward; and the hair is in full clusters over each temple. Berets of white crape, in full dress, are encircled by silver lace bands, placed at equal distances. A beret-toque a l’Italienne, in rose-coloured crape, is trimmed with a very full plume of rose-coloured feathers. Some head-dresses, in hair, are simply ornamented with a large full-blown rose, or a piony, placed behind, and quite at the summit of the head. At the last performances at the German theatre, the ladies had all head-dresses in hair, or blond caps. The favourite head-dress for balls in the country, is a fine Leghorn hat placed quite at the back of the head, and ornamented with two long branches of white-thorn in blossom, placed arch-wise, one above the other; white gauze ribbons, with broad satin stripes, and a small cornette of blond, tying under the chin; two broad strings of gauze ribbon stream behind, one descending from the summit of the crown, the other at its base. The hair, arranged a la Judith, that is to say, brought near on the forehead to its centre; then falling, in very full curls, one over the other to the throat. A picture of Judith, by Paul Veronese, represents her with her hair arranged in this manner. Some dress hats are of white chip, and are ornamented with flowers, which vibrate on their stalks.
At the theatres are seen many small caps, the crowns of which are in treillage work, formed of pink and satin rouleaux, and the front of gauze ribbons, cut into leaves; there is no blond introduced in these caps.
In the country have been seen several female dancers, whose heads were ornamented with natural flowers; poppy, blue-bells, laurel-roses, pinks, and pomegranite-blossoms. These flowers had long stalks, and were placed be- hind the bows of hair which formed the summit of the head-dress. Some fashionable ladies have essayed at the Opera, and at the Theatre Favart, to adorn their hair also with natural flowers; but the heat of these places soon faded them, before the performance was half over.

JEWELLERY. Jewels begin to decline in favour. There are but few bracelets worn, unless in full dress. The Chatelaines seem not to accord with summer costumes; a key of gold, fastened to a neck-chain, seems most in vogue. A new fashion, however, which is as original as genteel, is that of small enamelled smelling-bottle, in the form of a watch, fastened by a very pretty chain to a ring, which is placed on the finger over the glove; this little smelling-bottle, which escapes from it, is taken back again, falls again, and yet remains always suspended to the finger: this is a species of bijou, that may serve to replace in summer, the fans which are so much played with during the winter.
The newest bracelets are of tortoise-shell, some dark, some light. The round of the bracelet is ornamented with subjects in gold, stamped in relief; in the centre of the bracelets are antique heads in Cameos, or paintings in colours on china, called enamel. Sometimes portraits on ivory, or birds formed of feathers by a metallic process. These bracelets open and shut, in the manner of the old necklaces named carcans.
Smelling-bottles of crystal, which ladies now wear suspended from their necks, or to their sash, are covered with gold net-work, through which is seen the colour of the crystal.
A large chain of gold is usually thrown over the neck, to which is fastened a gold key; the head of which is surrounded by turquoises.
In the room of the vinaigrettes which the ladies wore suspended to their neck-chains, there is now a rose of gold, enamelled, or of valuable gems, which opens by a spring. In it is contained some drops of the Otto of Roses, which scent is predicted by the emblem.

MISCELLANEOUS. Instead of carrying the bouquet in the hand, the ladies now pass it through the sash.
High-heeled shoes are about to be introduced; there have already appeared some shoes, with the heel raised in the interior part of the sole, which raises the instep, and is supposed to give grace to the gait. At all events, if the heels continue to be made only in this way, they will not have the ridicule attached to them like those worn by our great grandmothers.
There have been various opinions concerning the colour of Jaune-Vapeur; some affirm, and we think justly, that it takes its name from that lurid kind of smoke, which oft’times issues from steam-machines; and steam being so much in vogue, our linguists have not hesitated in pronouncing it to be steam-yellow. The Parisians, however, affect to have found out, that a celebrated actress, whenever she had the vapours, turned that (now fashionable) colour!
Formerly mourning was laid aside on account of a marriage, or any other important event taking place in a family ; it is now suspended for a ball, a concert, or any extraordinary performance at the theatre.
Half-boots, of a dark colour, generally brown, and very square-toed, are very much in favour; some of these boots button up the front.
There is a goblet, now termed a family-glass, which contains about nine or ten of a moderate size; these are used in rambling {What the English call “gipsying.”} dinners about the country.
Gaiters, of grey gros-de-Naples, are worn with almost every kind of shoe.
For some time pincushions have been made of the most varied and curious forms. They represent small dolls of a grotesque kind, which, stuffed with bran, receive the puncture of a thousand pins. This invention is also seen in portable bells. They are in bronze, in gilding, and of every kind of composition; and which are truly of a very original kind.
Scotch marriages are very fashionable among parties in the country, and in all those meetings which are likely to last a certain time. As many different flowers are collected as there are ladies in the assembly, and they are inclosed in a basket. The same ceremony takes place among the gentlemen. When each of these draws a flower, by chance, it is united to a flower of the same kind.
During all the time of the marriage, the husband submits to all the caprice and will of his wife. ” Sir, order the carriage; hold the bridle of my borriko; teach me to waltz, dance very fast, en galop; please to bring me my shawl, give me a glass of Orgeat, &c. &c.” When the party breaks up, every one regains his liberty.

REQUISITES FOR A FRENCH YOUNG LADY ON HER MARRIAGE.

A gothic kind of coffer is in better taste than what is styled a corbeille. Either corbeille or coffer have a lock which is made secure by a key which the bride has suspended to her chattelaine, or her chain, which is a part of the presents made her on the day her contract is signed.
The trousseau (paraphernalia of the bride,) must not be confounded with the corbeille, (or coffer containing the presents made her) both are separately destined to the personal use of the bride; but the trousseau is furnished by the parents, generally the grandfather and grandmother; the corbeille is offered in homage by the future husband.
The trousseau, by its abundant utility, ought to be estimated above the objects of fashion contained in the corbeille.
As for the trousseau, which is a requisite affair, the father, the mother, the uncles or aunts, and the guardians ought to provide for all that may be wanting; in regard to the corbeille, nothing is required from the future bride-groom, but taste and gallantry.
Whatever dimensions the corbeille may be of, it will not contain all the offerings made; but it will accompany them.
Among the articles surrounding the corbeille of a young bride belonging to one of the higher classes, we remarked:
– A white dress of Chantilly lace, in a pattern, forming stripes, it had two flounces! and was to be worn over white satin, another dress was of rose-coloured satin.
– A cachemire dress, the colour Chinese-green, embroidered in silk of the same colour, shaded: it had a flounce cut in sharp points. The pattern was slight, and of a running kind.
– A dress of Navarin-blue satin, trimmed with a deep flounce of white Chantilly blond, in a very rich pattern.
– The dress to be worn at the altar was of English point-lace.
– A hat of Leghorn, extremely fine, surmounted by two magnificent willow-feathers, of the new kind, appearing like united tassels ; they were white, and hung in different stages, one above the other.
– A hat of bright rose-coloured crape, overshadowed by a willow-feather of the same colour, very large.
– A Grenada-toque with an open crown, ornamented with white ostrich feathers. A cardinal’s hat of Jaune vapour, adorned in the same manner.
– A cap of white blond, a la fiancee, with bows of blond-gauze ribbon, rouleaux of satin and flowers, all blue: the lappets of blond.
– A toque of cherry-coloured gauze, interwoven with gold. A turban of rose-coloured crape, spotted with silver. A beret of Lyonese silk of a fancy kind.
– Three Indian shawls of Cachemire; one en noir arlequin. A scarf of Mecklin-lace.
– Jewels in coloured stones, some engraven, others plain; a set of Scotch pebbles; a comb, necklace and ear-rings, with twelve ears of corn, all in brilliants; with a buckle of the same for a sash.
– A fan of mother-of-pearl. A white purse, embroidered with pearls and polished steel; this should contain some valuable pieces of gold coin : in the purse given to the young French lady recently married, were gold pieces of twenty and forty franks, with which it was filled.
– When a young lady is married, she receives from her husband, a basket filled with flowers, bijouterie, feathers, and other articles of fancy: such is the custom in France. In China, when a young female is betrothed, she finds, at night, in the bridal chamber, thread, cotton, needles, a thimble, and a pair of scissors.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to August 1829

Back to June 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of Alt Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

PLATE THE FIRST. COSTUME OF ALL NATIONS, NO. 40. ANDALUSIA.

The Spanish dresses we have before presented to our readers, were those worn only occasionally by females of the higher classes; we have an opportunity of presenting them with a costume now, worn by ladies of rank and fashion, in the delightful province of Andalusia.
Much intercourse, in time of peace, has been established between this part of Spain and England, ever since we have been firmly and quietly settled at Gibraltar. The ladies dress in a peculiar style, but not exactly Spanish; their costume resembling very much that of France and England; the well marked out waist, and the beautiful leg and foot, every Spanish woman will take care to make the best of; and when she possesses these attractions in an eminent degree, as the females of Spain certainly do, we must not fall out with them for making rather an unusual display of their taper ancles.
Over a slip of white taffety, is worn a dress of Barbary-gauze, handsomely ornamented at the border by a very broad fringe, formed of blue brocaded ribbon, in treillage work; and terminated at the mesh next the shoe by small knots of ribbon. The body is ornamented, downwards, by stripes of narrow blue ribbon, and a narrow black stomacher is worn in front of the waist; from whence depends an apron with a border at the end like that on a scarf, of white brocade, spotted with black. The small pockets, which are usually affixed to our modern aprons, are in this dress on each side of the petticoat; they are ornamented with ruby-coloured ribbons, and the fair Andalusian has a custom, not very graceful, of continually placing her hands on, or in them. The body is made low, and very becomingly so with a full triple falling tucker, in which Spanish points are not forgotten. The sleeves are en jigot, of the same white gauze as the dress, and over them, is the sleeve we call Seduisante, of the same treillage work and colour as the fringe on the skirt. The bracelets, confining the sleeves at the wrists, are of white and gold enamel, intermixed with rubies. The head-dress consists of a very small Spanish hat of black satin, with a beautiful white plumage of Herons’ feathers. Under this hat is worn an elegant cap of blond, en bouffont, the lappels kept in shape by narrow bands across, of white satin, with each a small rosette on the outside; these lappels are confined together at the breast by a small rosette of purple ribbon; below which, is one of white, with a loop, from whence depends a bow of black ribbon, with long ends; this is one of those whimsicalities of fashion, of which we cannot see the use or ornament. Round the throat is a plat of dark hair, with a gold Coeur de Jesus depending. The shoes are of white satin, with silk stockings, brocaded in buskins.

EVENING DRESS.

Over a pink satin slip, a dress of crape of the same colour, finished at the border by a very broad hem, over which are placed, obliquely, wreaths of puffed ribbon, about three shades darker than the dress. The body a la Sevigne, with a very splendid, large brooch, formed of aqua-marinas in the centre of the drapery, across the bust. Short, full sleeves, of white blond over white satin, somewhat shorter. The head-dress consists of a beret of pink satin, with a superb plume of white feathers, under the right side of the brim, which is much elevated; these feathers take a spiral direction towards the crown. The ear-pendants and necklace are of diamonds.

BRIDAL DRESS.

A dress of embroidered tulle over white satin, encircles the pattern stripes of foliage; one very broad flounce ornament finishes the border, headed by cockleshells of white satin, on which is embroidered a fleur de lis; the flounce is edged in a correspondent manner, but with the shells dependent, and from the base of the shell, which is upper-most, branches out delicate foliage, formed of white satin: the corsage is a la Sevigne; but the plain part fitting the waist is so beautifully disposed in bias, that the stripes on the tulle, have a very charming effect. The sleeves are long, excessively wide, a la Mameluke. The Sevigne drapery confined in the centre by a brooch, en girandole, of diamonds, set a l’Antique. The hair is elegantly and becomingly arranged, in curls and bows; or rather one large bow, formed of two light puffs, one near the face, the other approaching the summit of the head. These are divided by an ornamental kind of bandeau of blond, and the head is crowned by orange-flower blossoms on one side, and double garden-poppies, of a lilac colour, on the other. Long lappels of broad blond, depend from each side of the head behind, and fall gracefully over the shoulders. The necklace and ear-rings are of wrought gold and diamonds, with bracelets to suit.

FIG. 1. New sleeve, a la Seduisante, of rich blond; headed next the shoulder by a full rosette of white satin ribbon.
FIG. 2. Back view of the coiffeure of the third figure in “Bridal costume.”

WALKING DRESSES.

A dress of white jacanot muslin, with a broad flounce, the flounce headed by a full cordon, formed of celestial-blue braiding; this flounce is slightly scalloped at the edge, where it is finished with a narrow lace. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by a cuff, with one sharp point, which is trimmed round with the same narrow lace as that at the edge of the flounce. A ruffle of the same is placed next the hand. A canezou fichu of celestial-blue silk, with a brocaded border of blue and white, is worn with this dress, with its short ends drawn through a belt of the same colour; the fichu is bound round the edge with straw-coloured satin; a triple ruff of lace encircles the throat. The hat is of celestial-blue gros de Naples, trimmed with white gauze ribbon with satin stripes, and ornamented in front of the crown, with a bunch of the aspen-tree. A veil of white blond is worn with this hat. The gloves are of lemon-coloured kid, and the half-boots of celestial blue gros de Naples.

SECOND WALKING DRESS.

CENTRE FIGURE. – A pelisse of spring-green watered gros de Naples, fastening down the front of the skirt, under a rouleau; each side of which is ornamented by rosettes of plumb-coloured satin; a rouleau of which colour and material is placed round the border of the skirt, next the shoe. The sleeves are en jigot, and very wide, and are confined at the wrists by broad gold bracelets, splendidly enchased, and ornamented also by intaglios, set round by pearls. A canezou fichu of black blond, is worn over the shoulders, left open in front, discovering the body of the pelisse which is made entirely plain, surmounted at the throat by a very full ruff of blond. The bonnet is of white gros de Naples, trimmed with a profusion of lilac ribbon, striped with spring-green; it ties under the chin, with a large bow of the same ribbon. The half-boots are of plumb-coloured kid.

THIRD WALKING DRESS.

A high dress of steam-yellow-figured gros de Naples, trimmed next the feet, with a simple double rouleau. The body made a la Circassienne, fastened by a rich broach of jewels. The sleeves a la Mameluke, with bracelets of white Vene- tian beads, edged on each sides with gold. The throat encircled by a ruff. Bonnet of pink satin, elegantly trimmed with the same material.
N. B. A bonnet is represented in this plate (a back view) of butter-cup yellow gros de Naples, trimmed with lilac ribbon, and branches of lilac. A broad white blond surrounds the edge of the brim.

WALKING DRESSES. – FIRST DRESS.

A pelisse of apricot-coloured gros de Naples; at the head of the broad hem surrounding the skirt, and down the front where it fastens, are lozenge puffings, each puff edged by extremely narrow silk beading, about two or three shades darker than the pelisse. The body is a la Circassienne, and is confined at the small of the waist by a belt the same as the dress, fastened in front by a gold buckle. Sleeves a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by a Manchette cuff. Pointed mancherons are placed over the sleeves, on each shoulder. The pelisse is made without cape or collar, and is surmounted by a very full ruff of fine lace. The bonnet is of spring-green gros de Naples, trimmed with a variegated ribbon of straw-colour and bright geranium. On the straw-coloured part are clouds of green and geranium; a few puffs of the same colour and material as the bonnet are mingled with the bows of ribbon on the crown. Half-boots of kid, the colour of the pelisse, complete the costume.

SECOND WALKING DRESS.

A high dress of celestial-blue Levantine or tabinet, with a broad hem round the border, headed by a rich fringe of silk. The body made plain to fit the shape, with very wide sleeves a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by gold bracelets. A double pelerine is worn with this dress, as an out-door appendage, finished at each edge by a fringe corresponding with that over the hem on the skirt; this pelerine is surmounted by a ruff of blond. The hat is of white gros de Naples, ornamented with blond and the yellow flower called “Soloman’s Seal,” with green foliage. A veil of white blond is added, and a splendid throat-scarf, with long ends, depending to the feet is worn; it is of the Cachemire white, with the ends richly brocaded in various colours, and finished by a deep fringe the colour of the scarf. This dress is fitted to the morning exhibitions, &c.

HALF-LENGTH FIGURES.

No. 1. – A dress of striped muslin, the ground, canary-yellow, with stripes of ethereal blue. A canezou of muslin, trimmed with lace, and without sleeves, is worn with this dress, the sleeves of which are a la Mameluke. The waist is encircled by a belt of blue ribbon, fastened in front with an oblong buckle of gold. The canezou, which has a pelerine-cape, surmounted by a lace ruff, ties in front, with a rosette of blue ribbon. The hat is of white gros d’ Ete, striped with blue, and is trimmed with bows of white gauze ribbon, and ornamented with bouquets of the leaves of the pine-apple.
No. 2. – A back view of an opera dress of pink crape, with blond full, short sleeves, ornamented at the shoulders with bows of white satin ribbon. Hat of pink crape, or of satin, with a white feather under the brim, taking its direction to the crown, which is slightly trimmed with white gauze ribbon.

FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.
FIG. 1. – A back view of the hat on the second Walking-Dress, crowned with double pink garden poppies.
FIG. 2. – Back view of the hat on No. 1. Half-length figure. The hat all white, with a full-blown rose added to the pine-leaves.

A MORNING DRESS.

A dress of white organdy, with a broad hem round the border, above which are bouquets of variously-coloured flowers embroidered in crewels; a canezou of tulle, worked in a corresponding manner, forms the corsage, which is confined round the waist by a belt of Pomona-green satin, with a Chatelaine chain and key of gold; the belt fastens by a gold buckle in front. The mancherons on the sleeves are formed of points embroidered in colours, and edged with narrow lace, over which is a very narrow rouleau of Pomona-green satin. A cuff confines the sleeve at the wrist, which cuff is pointed, and on it is worked a small bouquet of flowers in different colours. An elegant blond cap is worn with this dress, lightly ornamented with scrolls of white satin and various small flowers; and broad strings of white striped gauze ribbon float over the shoulders.

AN EVENING DRESS.

A dress of oiseau de Paradis satin, ornamented at the border by two rows of white gauze bouillones; over which are placed across, in bias, trimmings of amber-silk, representing foliage: the upper bouillone is headed by silk cordon of the same colour as the foliage ornaments; and, at equal distances, are seen, dependant from the cordon, two superb tassels. The body is made plain, with a very deep falling tucker of rich blond. The sleeves very short, and a tassel descends from the shoulder to the elbow; two tassels, also, ornament the front of the bust, from a cordon which heads the tucker. The coiffeure consists of a dress hat of white crape, with a superb plumage of white feathers, playing over it in every direction. A large rosette of white gauze figured ribbon is placed next the hair, under the brim on the right side. The necklace and ear-pendants are of gold. The bracelets of gold and enamel in different colours; two on each wrist. The shoes of white satin, with very small bows.

A MORNING DRESS.

A dress of white jaconot muslin, with a very broad hem, headed by a beautiful fringe, with the upper part in open work. Above the fringe is a row of embroidery. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, with an embroidered cuff at the wrist, surmounted by a full ruffle-frill of muslin, with a narrow lace edging. An embroidered fichu-shawl, trimmed round with lace, is worn with this dress; the ends drawn through a belt of white gros de Naples, on which is painted a wreath of blue flowers. The hat is of Barbel-blue crape, trimmed with broad ribbon of the same colour, white blond, and bracelets of white lilac.
N. B. A back view of the hat above described.
A fashionable cap of blond, – a back view, – trimmed with Barbel-blue ribbon.

NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR JUNE, 1829.

Though the Spring has been somewhat backward, we may now venture to pronounce the Winter to have completely passed away: London is, however, a scene of gaiety and splendour. Balls and grand evening parties still continue, though their reign will now be but short; the Royal Academy of Paintings, and the various morning exhibitions are thronged with the most distinguished members of rank and fashion; the taste and elegance of whose dress it has been our task to investigate, as it is now to present the result of our observations to our numerous patronesses.
For these morning lounges, and for the retired home afternoon costume, we have much admired a high dress of lavender-coloured Norwich-crape; it is bordered by one broad flounce, in sharp points, bound by black satin, and headed by three narrow black satin rouleaux, and bows the same material and colour as the dress, bound round in bias by black satin. The body fastens in front en pelisse, with a falling square collar, partially pointed, and bound with black satin. The sleeves fit almost tight to the arm, and have a chemisette-sleeve-Mancheron, and at the wrists a gauntlet-cuff. A belt incircles the waist the same as the dress, and is bound in a manner corresponding with the other trimmings. One of the newest evening dresses is of white crepe-Aerophane over white satin: two very broad bias folds surround the border of the skirt, headed by white satin rouleaux: the corsage is ornamented across the top of the bust, en Chevrons, by satin rouleaux, and pointed at the base of the waist; which, as well as the Chevrons, is finished, by beautiful blond. The sleeves are en jigot, with a broad gauntlet cuff of white satin, ornamented by a row of very small gold Almeida buttons, set very close together in bias, on the outside of the cuff. For the other novelties in the gown department we refer our readers to our engravings for June Fashions.
For the out-door costume a very beautiful Summer cloak for the open carriage, has just been completed at Mrs. Bell’s tasteful Magazin de Modes in Cleveland Row. This cloak is of gros de Naples of a bright jonquil, and is lined with white sarcenet; it envelops, while it sets off the shape, and is devoid of all ornament. A pelisse of emerald-green Indian reps silk is equally admired; it is ornamented down each side of the bust, and where it closes in front of the skirt, with green satin, in zig-zag. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, with a gauntlet cuff, terminating in a point towards the upper part of the arm, where there is an ornament representing a fleur de lis, in narrow rouleaux of green satin. A narrow cape collar, in Castillan points, falls over from the throat.
Among the new hats and bonnets is qne of the latter, formed of plaided silk, the ground of which is fawn, with chequers of pink and black satin, formed of very narrow stripes, is trimmed with a rich broad ribbon of dark chocolate brown, edged on one side with a green satin stripe, on the other with blue. Scrolls of the same material as the bonnet ornament the crown, interspersed with the ribbon above mentioned, and tropic birds; feathers, of pink and yellow, complete the embellishments. A rose-coloured satin bonnet, figured in lozenge-diamonds, is of a shape less becoming than the one before described; this is extremely evase; but is filled up by a trimming under the brim, of gauze ribbons striped with black, blue, and yellow. The bows on the bonnet, and the loop-strings are pink with a stripe of yellow, clouded with blue. A small, pink, spiral feather, finishes the trimming. A very elegant bonnet is of white gros de Naples, with broad stripes across, the colour of the Parma-violet: it is very tastefully trimmed with ornaments of the same, bound with Canary-yellow: the bows are of gauze ribbon; a Spring green, striped with white and green satin. A very handsome carriage bonnet is of etherial-blue satin, with a quilling of blond under the brim, next the hair. At the edge are placed, beneath two Esprits, that on the right side, rose colour and white, on the left, white and yellow; the bonnet is bound at the edge by a plaid ribbon, the chequers of very lively colours on a white ground; the bows and strings are of straw-coloured ribbon beautifully clouded with bark-brown, rose-colour, and violet. A most superb plumage of blue, curled feathers, plays over the crown and brim.
A blue net beret-turban is of a novel and truly elegant shape; it is laid in fluted folds, and next the hair, is placed, on one side, an esprit feather of straw-colour. On the opposite side, and nearer the summit, is another feather of the same colour, representing the tail of the bird-of-Paradise, which gracefully depends over towards the shoulder. A turban of pink satin and crape, in the turkish form, is elegantly ornamented with white Marabouts, in various directions. Berets are of white crape, with a bow of satin ribbon, cut in fringe at the ends, tailing over the left side of the hair, under, the brim. A superb plumage of white flat Ostrich feathers finishes this head-dress. The blond caps have experienced but little alteration since last month; one for half dress is of beautifully figured gauze; black, with pink figures. It is adorned with pink Canterbury-bells, in bouquets, and pink gauze ribbons, striped with black. A favourite cap for home costume, a la fiancee, is of rich white blond and tulle, and is trimmed with jonquille-coloured gauze, and rouleaux of satin ribbon of the same tint.
A beautiful article for dresses has just appeared; the ground of some chaste, unobtruding colour, with satin stripes of the same on gros de Naples, between the stripes are heart’s-eases, of every different colour, brocaded.
The colours most admired are stone-colour, lavender, jonquille, rose-colour, etherial-blue, and emerald-green.
GREASE SPOTS. The following method of removing grease and oil spots from silk and other articles, without injury to the colours, is given in the Journal des Connaisances Usuelles: Take the yolk of an egg and put a little of it on the spot, then place over it a piece of white linen, and wet it with boiling water: rub the linen with the hand, and repeat the process three or four times, at each time applying fresh boiling water: the linen is to be then removed, and the part thus treated is to be washed with clean cold water.

NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.

HATS AND BONNETS. – The most elegant hats are generally seen finished at the edge of the brims by a very broad blond, as broad as a quarter and half-quarter of an ell, which forms a demi-veil. Several chip hats are so ornamented. Feathers of cherry-colour recline gracefully over the brim. On Leghorn hats, one simple branch of flowers falls on one side, or one large flower, accompanied by a slight portion of foliage. The strings, which tie the hats under the chin, are edged with blond en ruche; bonnets of blue or steam-coloured gros de Naples, are very shallow in the crown; it is rather round, and the edge is bordered with blond; these bonnets are extremely pretty. There are some of straw-colour, also, lined with pink, and ornamented with roses; others in white crape, with coloured linings, and trimmed with ribbons and flowers of suitable shades to the lining. Two hats have been seen, entirely made of blond, divided by bands of satin. Those of coloured crape are ornamented by branches of lilacs. Some hats, of fine Leghorn or white chip, have no ribbons, but are embellished by two birds of paradise; a simple ribbon fastens these hats, which are exclusively worn by women of the first fashion, under the chin. A branch of white camelia is a favourite ornament on a white chip hat; it is placed obliquely, from the summit of the crown on the left side, and is brought to the edge of the brim on the right. Several hats of yellow or of lilac crape have been seen at the Marchandes des Modes, ornamented with hyacinths of various colours, fixed at the base of the crown, in front. For white chip hats, the favourite flower is the poppy, either single or double, with three or four buds; at the base of the flower is always a rosette of gauze ribbon. Among other hat-ornaments is the variegated laurel. Another is the canary-bell-flower, the chalice of which blows out like a puff.
In general, both the chip and Leghorn hats, are smaller than they were last summer; but the flowers now that ornament them are voluminous; such, for example, as a large branch of pine, chesnut-tree, and from other large trees When a poppy is placed on one side of a white chip hat, it is not unusual to add to it a branch of green heath and a large full-blown rose. The ribbon trimming consists of two separate bows; one, very full, is placed on the summit of the, on one side, and the other, having only two loops on the brim, on the opposite side. The inside of the brim s ornamented with bows, blond, and leaves, cut out of ribbons. Some strings are worn fastened to the crown, and are passed through sliders on the brim, and tie under the chin. Several hats are trimmed with blond, which crosses the front of the crown, and is supported by branches of flowers; it terminates on each side of the brim, where the slider is fixed for the strings to pass through. Among some of the most elegant hats, may be cited one of fine straw, lined with blue crape, and ornamented by five feathers, half blue and half straw-colour. Hats of rose-coloured crape are surrounded by a broad blond. One bow of gauze ribbon is added to a branch of heath, which falls like a weeping-willow over the brim. Several hats of crape, or of Gros de Naples, of steam-colour, are adorned with flowers and blue ribbons; the flowers are red.
There are two shapes very distinct in the Leghorn hats: those a la Francais, are short at the ears; those a l’Anglaise, are, on the contrary, very long: a poppy, with buds, forms the trimming on the first; on the latter, it is a branch of whitethorn, slightly bent. Instead of flowers, large bows of ribbon are sometimes placed over the brims of some Leghorn hats, spread out at a distance from each other, like a fan. Almost all the hats of gros de Naples are edged with a broad blond. Some ladies place on a yellow or a lilac hat, a black blond, and a green blond on a rose-coloured hat.
A new way of ornamenting white chip hats under the brims, consists in taking a ribbon with satin stripes, then twisting it, and afterwards disposing it in puffs; this row of puffing goes from one string to the other.
Some hats, the crowns of which are of spotted gauze, have the brims entirely of blond, or of ribbon and blond. These brims are supported by means of wired ribbon, concealed under narrow rouleaux of satin.
Green, either in ribbons or flowers, is the most fashionable colour for Leghorn hats. Poppies, heath, young fir, all are green.
In elegant deshabille, the bonnets are of fancy straw, striped or chequered; they are lined with white, or with coloured gros de Naples.
OUT-DOOR-COSTUME. – Muslin canezous are very universal over silk dresses, or a pelerine the same as the dress.
The riding-habits are made long, especially behind; they are often of violet colour, with the corsage of velvet; the buttons wrought in or mat.
Some riding-habits have appeared of lapis-blue cloth, with silver buttons, set on in the hussar style. The collars and lappels of riding-dresses resemble those on a man’s coat. The cravat is white, and the shirt collar, also, has the same masculine appearance. The shirt is laid in large plaits, and is fastened by five buttons in gold enamel.
The Ibis is now seen to triumph over the boa tippets; this bird, so sacred to the Egyptians, is now beautifully imitated in painting and embroidery on summer shawls of slight texture, which bear the title of that bird with which they are ornamented; and we need not doubt but what it will possess, under the empire of beauty, that power which it enjoyed during the time of the Pharoahs. Under the folds of the boas, an allegory easy to comprehend, commanded their admirers to fly from them; the serpent was reposing on flowers; but the shining plumage of the mysterious bird, gives to them an additional charm, and if it inspires for them a respect less profound than heretofore, it is yet still more capable of establishing their power by affording them that of gaining discretion from a law so inviolable to the initiated of former ages; for, when Cambyses usurped Egypt, Peluse was about to open its gates, but desisted at the sight of some of these birds, which interposed between him and the enemy, and such was the respect and veneration which they inspired, that for fear of wounding them or only terrifying them during the attack, the Egyptians remained inactive and the town was taken.
Several summer shawls have been invented to satisfy Parisian caprice; amongst which are the Egyptian and Tartarian shawls. Some of real cachemire have also recently arrived.
Pelerines, the colour of the dress, are trimmed with the same fringe as appears round the border. The richest kind is the corded fringe; they are excessively broad.
A favourite dress for the public walks is one of cambric, with two pelerines, each edged with a narrow mechlin lace.
DRESSES. – The sleeves a l’Amadis are much in vogue, with a short full sleeve underneath, and a narrow ruffle at the wrist. Some of the sleeves yet continue very wide, but this fullness terminates just above the elbow, where it is confined, and the rest sits close to the arm. White sleeves are worn with silk dresses and with coloured muslins, canezous in muslin or tulle prevail much, the former are embroidered in feather-stitch. The trimming of the epaulettes and of the pelerines descends very low over the sleeves, and has the effect of a small sleeve; double ruffles are worn at the wrists; one falls over the hand, the other stands up next the arm. Broad hems are the favourite borders to the skirts, the only novelty is in the narrow heads above the hem. Yet the most eminent dress-makers continue to make gowns with deep flounces, especially on those of muslin. The most original mode shews itself in Canezous of Organdy, or white muslin embroidered with coloured crewel. There has also appeared a canezou-fichu of coloured gros de Naples; these fichus are worn with white dresses. The number of dresses trimmed with fringe, with the head of the fringe curiously wrought, increases daily.
The corsages are almost all made plain; those with a point are no longer worn. Gowns for dress parties have all drapery across the bust. The white canezous, which are embroidered in coloured crewel, are worn over a petticoat of the same colour as the embroidery. Dresses of gros de Naples have often a pelerine the same as the gown, trimmed with a broad fringe, a row of which ornaments the border and ascends as high as the knee. The sleeves a la Mameluke, with broad plaited cuffs. The sashes are of very broad ribbon, the same colour as the dress, without ends, and fastened behind by a gold buckle.
The dresses are made so short in front, that the stocking is seen above the half-boot, or the gaiter.
Ball dresses are bordered with one or two flounces of Chantilly blond, and with rouleaux of the same colour, but not of the same texture as the dress; they are of satin, when the dresses are tulle, or crape, or gauze. Two or three of these rouleaux, separated from each other, the space between about as wide as the rouleau, or double the breadth, are placed just below the knee, then repeated in an equal number, but near a foot distant from the others.
Instead of these rouleaux, the dress of a lady was seen ornamented with silver lama on Navarin-blue. The belt and the drapery of the corsage were also interwoven with silver. A cherry-coloured ball-dress had a gold ornament
about a hand’s breadth, above the knees. White Organdy dresses are trimmed with a broad satin ribbon, in the middle of which is a gold stripe; the sash is the same but narrower. Beret sleeves are covered with blond en oreilles d’ elephant; or the sleeves are trimmed with puffs of ribbon to answer those of the sash. Several dresses are seen of lilac gros de Naples, or of Indian-green, or salmon colour, striped with cordons of flowers. The dress-makers continue to make the gowns very short in front, a little longer at the sides, and long behind. Painted silks are worn in full dress, in bouquets; a glazed gros de Naples is of the changeful and beautiful colour of the turtle dove’s neck; a dress of mass muslin, with white canezou, promises to be in high favour this summer. Amongst the new materials for summer dresses is Indian long cloth, with gothic patterns, which have a wonderfully pleasing effect. A new material has also been displayed, called Abureerrage; but is one of those articles with which we are pleased, we know not why.
Balls have taken place again, a short time ago, at which were remarked some very pretty dresses. One was of white crape, and above the broad hem at the border, were placed ears of green corn, at separate distances; the stalks and beards of the corn were delicately worked in silk, while each grain was formed of a green bead, which being oblong, caused a beautiful effect.
Every lady of fashion now wears white muslin ruffles, beautifully embroidered; sometimes the ruffle is at the edge of the wristband of the long sleeve, and at others, the ruffle is placed above, as a trimming; a kind of weeper, also, is worn, about half a quarter of an ell in breadth.
HEAD-DRESSES. Berets and turbans are of coloured or white crape, spotted with gold or silver.
Under the article of ball-dresses we mentioned a dress ornamented with ears of corn in green beads: the classical coiffeure adopted with this costume, consisted of emerald ears of corn, intermingled with those of diamonds.
JEWELLERV. Bracelets are declining in favour , Chatelaines are expected to be worn all the summer. The most distinguished are in enamel, and they are made to correspond with the chain worn round the neck.
A ring of tortoise-shell is much in favour, with the following motto: “Tant qu’il durera. These rings are called a Caprice.
MISCELLANEOUS. Half-boots are universally worn. They are of gros de Naples, of every colour. The stockings most in favour are of Scotch thread. The shoes are all square-toed, without bows, and sometimes without sandal-strings.
The new parasols are all fringed.
The Boa-tippets seem to be in great danger: it is in vain that Golconda and Brazil have furnished these powerful talismans; in vain Flanders and India, Lyons and England have offered their most beautiful tissues, diamonds, scarfs, blonds and lace; all is now eclipsed, all are obscured under the overwhelming windings of the over-ruling reptile. Sinking under the most painful efforts, fatigued by the long reign of the boas that the approach of summer commands us to annihilate, the genius of fashion has itself furnished the arms which will destroy this too lasting a predilection, in the Ibis now so much the rage.
There are no longer seen shoes fastened to the gaiters. The most fashionable ladies wear half-boots, all of the same material; the shoe-part is marked out by a silk cordon.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to July 1829

Back to May 1829