Newest London and Paris Fashions for December 1824

Evening Dress


DRESS of soft satin or velvet of celestial blue. The border beautifully trimmed with a rich rouleau, entwined with silver cordon, in festoons, with blue rosettes, from whence depend silver tags. A straight rouleau the same as the festoon trimming surmounts the hem at the bottom of the skirt; corsage with the drapery, formed a la Greque, across the bust, and on each side: that across the bust fastened with a rosette in front with silver tags, as in the point formed by the termination of the side draperies, just above the belt, of the same material as the dress. The sleeves are short, and have a rosette on the outside of the arm next the shoulder. Swedish mantle of violet coloured satin, trimmed with white swan’s down, or ermine and lined throughout with white swan’s down, ermine, or levantine. The head dress a Veronese toque of gauze and silver lama, and an ornament, placed obliquely, in front, of finely wrought fillagree silver. The toque surmounted with a plume of white feathers, variegated. Opal necklace and bracelets, &c. White satin shoes.

Walking Dress


A pelisse of gros de Naples, the beautiful colour of the beet root, elegantly ornamented with the valuable fur of the lynx, in the most unique and truly novel manner (being the sole invention of Mrs. Bell of St. James’s Street) the fur is not only displayed, like the rouleaux of gros de Naples that divide it, in serpentine wavings, but also formed into beautiful sprigs of the Asiatic tree, supported and surrounded by stalks formed of narrow rouleaux of the same material as the pelisse. A pelerine cape trimmed with lynx fur to correspond. The sleeves en gigot, in point of form, but of more moderate dimensions than on the first appearance of this fashion, and confined at the wrists with broad gold eastern bracelets. A belt of the same material as the pelisse, fastened in front with a gold buckle, wrought in the same pattern as the Indian bars of gold at the wrist. A bonnet of the same colour and material as the pelisse, with fichu lappets, carelessly tied. Large bows, intermingled with black, or very short black feathers playing among the bows, finish this tasteful bonnet. – This unrivalled pelisse is lined throughout with rich white taffety.


Though, for some years past, fashion has demanded, that those her votaries who have splendid hereditary mansions, and large establishments in the country, should remain at them till after Christmas, a custom that first took its rise from the noble motives of old English Beneficence; yet, at the latter part of November’s cloudy month, and at the commencement of December, the different modes in the metropolis begin to wear a decided appearance, and we are enabled, from the various articles composing the female toilet, to pronounce on what is likely this winter, to be most in favour, as well as what is now universally adopted by the higher classes.

The newest articles for bonnets are some that are fancifully variegated, and consist of coloured chenille stripes worked across a ground of different coloured satin: we mention these, merely on account of their novelty; the shape is not becoming, and we prophesy that their reign will be but short. The other hats and bonnets, this month, especially those for the carriage are extremely beautiful: some are of black, others of lilac velvet; the black are sometimes trimmed at the edge with ruche, fire coloured and black, intermingled; and with striped ribbon, of correspondent colours: the lilac is trimmed with very dark puce-coloured sarcenet, in bows and lappets depending. A purple velvet hat has also a decided air of style and fashion about it, both as to the form, and the tasteful manner in which it is trimmed: it is lined with amber-coloured satin; on the left side of the lining are Spanish slashes, filled in with purple velvet. A weeping willow feather, of purple and amber, intermingled, droops over the right side; on which side, under the lining, is a quilling of black blond. A handsome black bonnet, for the promenade, is ornamented with the scarlet flower, named Turk’s cap, formed of crape, and black seraskier aigrettes of feathers: a small blond cornette should be worn under this bonnet. A bonnet of black velvet for the carriage, is also ornamented with scarlet Turk’s caps, each surmounted by black feather esprits. A full plume of black ostrich feathers is placed in front, and the plumage falls over behind. A bonnet of pink gros de Naples, finished for a carriage bonnet for a young lady of fashion struck us as very appropriate and tasteful: it was trimmed at the edge with white blond, of a rich pattern, and ornamented among the bows with several small slate coloured feathers.

To the inspecting of the above elegant bonnets we are indebted to the kindness of Mrs. Bell in St. James’s Street who has, also, just completed for two ladies of very distinguished rank, two beautiful out door envelopes, the trimming of which, in its most unique and splendid disposal, is entirely of her invention. One is a capacious Swedish mantle, the other a pelisse of gros de Naples. The mantle is of a bright vermillion colour, and the material of the most costly Genoa velvet. It is trimmed in rich rouleaux, in wavings of gros de Naples, and all round with the valuable fur of the black lynx. The fringe fur not only sepentizes in waves, if we may use the term, but tasteful ingenuity has also formed flowers of this glossy and valuable skin, which are placed between each interstice, and have a most magnificent effect. The pelisse is the colour of the bright rose of Japan, and is lined throughout with white levantine; the fur trimming and rouleaux are disposed in the same style on the Swedish mantle; and the bust, macherons, collar and cuffs are ornamented in a similar manner, in miniature.

A pelisse of slate coloured gros de Naples is an elegant out-door dress, it is made plain, as best suited to the promenade; though some ladies have these neat, unobtruding pelisses simply ornamented with one row of rouleaux, disposed in chain work, down each side of the skirt in front; they fasten close with buttons; the sleeves en gigot, and a pelerine cape finishes the dress. This kind of pelisse, made of satin, and trimmed with light sable or swan’s down, is well adapted for the carriage, and looks charmingly, as there are few to whom this colour is not becoming; and that is the chief acquisition that fashions disciples should endeavour to obtain: it was this that has made the Japanese rose such a standing colour, for every complexion is set off by it.

The turbans that are now worn, may be pronounced a glorious novelty, as they form an Aureole round the head; the shape is generally becoming; we saw a beautiful one of lapis blue satin, with a point on the forehead; the turban part was laid in flutings, and in the middle of the crown was a plain, raised ornament, like the fruit of the marshmallow, and when this turban is of the colour of the marshmallow blossom, this ornament is green, as it si by nature; these last mentioned are of gauze. A half dress turban is of white satin, with a lapis bow of satin, and long lappets of the same. The caps and cornettes are continually improving. A new cap for the theatre is elegant but too simply so for our ideas of what the head dresses ought to be in the dress department of a national theatre like ours: it is pointed on the forehead, and composed chiefly of tulle; beautiful, but very delicate sprigs of flowers are scattered over the cap. Another for the same purpose, is formed of very rich blond and pink satin, and ornamented with larger flowers, among which the full blown rose, that beautiful candle-light flower, is most conspicuous. A diadem cornette is a pretty head dress for home; it is of plain tulle, with broad pink gauze lappets; the cawl is also of mink gauze, and turns up in the front, with a diadem ornament: a simple row of pale pink primroses, divides the blond in front from the …

The dejune blouse cornet is of fine lace, with a broad border; the other part is formed of a striped pink ribbon and fine net; the lappets very long and broad, of striped ribbon, … trimmed all round, with narrow lace. … beautiful head dress we have seen for public spectacles, or dress parties, is a black velvet … brims of which in front are double, and edged with pearls: on the right side, the brim is … and the hat is small, discovers the hair … fully curled; these indentings are, also, edged with pearls; a very superb plume, partly … over the left side, of white ostrich feathers, completes this charming head dress: for the young lady and even for the matron, nothing can be more appropriate that this coiffure.

One of the newest articles in the gown department is a home costume of gros de Naples; it … and beautifully shot;- fire colour and am … made high, and finished from the shoulder … each side of the bust and skirt, with sho… each of which are fastened at both ends, … Almeida button of richly wrought gold; but the buttons do not depend from tags, like those worn by the Porteguese, but are fastened close to the … sleeves are long, plain, and nearly fit the … mancherons formed of straps and ornamented with Almeida buttons. The border of the skirt is ornamented with with two rows of united chevrons, in bias … dress of blue crepe lisse, over white satin, is admired for evening parties: the sleeves are of white lace; the whole of the white sleeve … from the shoulder, and discovers the … sleeve underneath: the body is made in the Greek style; which varies but little from … Greek, except that in the former, folds … place of the antique robings. The border of … is trimmed with two rows of detached bunches of … leaves, with a small Indian rose fixed to the centre of each; the sash of blue watered … on the left side, with very long ends, terminated in a broad fringe. The ball dresses are, at present, very simple; puckerings of gauze, and trimmed with blond, with white satin rouleaux, form the ornaments, whither the dress is of tulle, rich … gauze, or soft white satin; this last article … in favour, but it is expected that coloured … and crapes will be much patronised by the … of Terpsichore. The bodies for ball dresses are … beautiful; some are of white satin, with tulle … the bust in Brandenburghs, each row of … round with pearls: corsages of coloured … also ornamented in the same manner; … are entirely of tulle, and are ornamented … bust with straps of white satin, with corresponding sleeves, short and full. The favourite colours are the rose of Japanese rose, vermillion, fire-colour, amber, and pink.


THE mourning has, for some time, excluded a variety of colours; but the scene of fashion begins to brighten. At the concert given by Mr Dossion at the Opera House, at the theatre of Madame, on the day of All Saints, a Moabitish turban was remarked on, which is fastened under the chin, adorned with a bird of Paradise. On several black velvet toques were plumes of black ostrich feathers, curled, and small white feathers, placed a l’Inca, adorned the hats that were of black velvet. Some white hats had on them daisies, that were black, and highly varnished. Some fashionists placed on a black velvet hat, white lappets, and a large bow of white satin: this bow is composed of three puffs, and four … cut round. The new hats are large in the brim, bo… in front and at the sides, and the crowns are high. Some black velvet hats have a fichu of the same … en marmotte, plaited on the summit of the crown, … large plaits. The mantles reckoned the most handsome, are of black satin, with two pelerine capes of black velvet, which descend as low as the elbow, and are lined with hwite satin. The only fur yet seen was of black marten, in fichu-palatines.

Coloured dresses have began to be bespoke, … the fashion-mongers; they are bright, and clouded, or have broad, shaded stripes, and the white silks are figured with raised leaves. On the first representation of Leocadia, at the Feydeau, every … was taken. We there saw dresses of plain velvet made with a kind of stomacher, the corsage trimmed round the bsut with a double row of tulle. A velvet pelerine was thrown over the shoulders, bordered with blond, laid in very large plauts. At the border of these dresses were four rouleaux of velvet, and four flounces of blond. Some dresses of reps silk were trimmed on the mancherons, and at the border of the gown with rows of Maltese crosses, made of black satin; a jet button marks the centre of the cross. The head-dresses were toques of black velvet, and turbans of striped gauze and satin, laid in a thousand little plaits. On the former were long white plumes, five feathers in a plume, placed spiral, and forming an enormous spread-out: on the latter were two black aigrettes, and a black bird of Paradise, or a long plume of black feathers, grouped together. A hat of black velvet was remarked, with the brim turned up in front; on the left side was a bouquet of marabouts, fixed so low that they mingled with the curls of hair on the neck. Another black velvet hat was ornamented with a very full wreath of different coloured flowers, made in velvet. All the young persons wore their hair elegantly arranged, with a jet comb, ear-rings of blue spun-glass. The Apollo’s knot formed two enormous bows, and the curls of hair confined on the temples by the two little jet combs, were in the form of a horse shoe. Several ladies of fashion, on quitting the theatre, enveloped themselves in a mantle of black velvet, with a pelerine cape of Chinchilla.

The dress-makers are seriously employed in making a corsage, similar to those worn in the time of Francis I. The puckerings of this corsage are all brought up to the chest, by a very large brooch of jewels; the folds or puckerings enlarge, as they are brought on each side of the bust which form the wheat-sheaf, in a transverse sense to that when the body is said to be made en gerbe.

Blond flounces are the trimmings most in vogue for dress gowns. We have seen a dress of spotted velvet, Emma colour, the border of which was trimmed with a broad flounce of blond, set on in festoons; above the flounce were tufts of foliage formed of satin, to answer the colours of the dress, each leaf trimmed with narrow blond edging: the petticoat was terminated by a bouillon in pipes, placed between two rouleaux. The corsage was square, with a falling tucker of blond, over which was a satin foliage, of smaller dimensions than that on the border; the sleeves were ornamented in a correspondent manner.

The mourning damps, the efforts of our artists, fashion-mongers and dress-makers; there are, however, some charming silks to be found in our mercers’ shops, both figured and plain. Shaded Spanish silks, and fancy India silks; these colours are named, the tree of Judea, and Ipsaraearth; and there are merinos the colour of Helen’s tunic, and the sable of Nubia. Velvet hats are shaped a la Bolivar; the brim round and very large: at present there are but few dress hats, but toques and turbans are of the most charming diversity. Over silk dresses are worn pelerines of crape or gauze, trimmed with bias folds, raised; there are also seen long sleeves of gauze, the wristbands of which are concealed by ribbons the colour of the gown, and which tie on the inside of the …

Next in favour to black velvet hats, are those of pomgranite colour; the brim round and large, and very much bent down over the forehead; at the … of the crown, which is high, is a large bow of … bound with satin: these bows are formed of puffs in which are mixed ends of velvet, and … the crown is a bouillon of velvet. We hace seen a very lovely hat, composed of black velvet and coloured satin, and black blond; another … barbel blue velvet, and the bottom of the crown was covered with ribbons clouded with blue and two aigrettes of gold lama, turned back, were worn with much taste. The toques, of whatever material, are all black; they were the predominant head-dress at the first representation of Fiesque, at the … There were also demi-turbans of gauze part … and which were higher on one side than the other.

Dark shaded silks are nest in favour to black; there is nothing new in the corsages; they are still … and the only novelty is in the disposal of the … the ornaments on the mancherons are always made to correspond with those on the border of the coat, which are generally of full bouillons of … confined by bows or points of satin. With … for half dress, the long sleeves of gauze are made very wide, and if the dress is black, they are …

In parties that are given on account of … where young people are obliged to dance, the … dresses of tulle, cut in points round the … These dresses do not come down lower than the bouillon of satin which ornaments the bottom of the satin slip underneath. The sash or belt worn with dress gowns is round, and fastened by … formed of four or five little pointed ends.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

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