MILANESE robe of fine French lawn, elegantly ornamented down the front, and without side of the arms of the long sleeve with delicately wrought cordon. The petticoat ornamented with two broad tucks, between which is fine lace, pointed a la neige, one row of which finishes the hem next the feet. The corsage made en blouse and the sleeves en gigot. Morning corsette with broad lace en dents de loups, next the face, and crowned with leaves of ribbon; sash fastened with a buckle in front instead of a bow, the ends descending to the knee. Black satin shoes.
WALKING AND CARRIAGE COSTUME
Pelisse of Japanese rose colour silk, elegantly trimmed all round with a rich sable fringe fur, and narrow satin rouleaux, or silk braiding, down the sides in front; collar partially elevated and surmounted by a ruff of Urling’s lace. Aragonese hat of black velvet, crowned with a beautiful plumage of black ostrich feathers. The waist of the pelisse encircled by a belt of the same material as the pelisse fastened with a gold buckle. Reticule en gibeciere of Japanese rose colour, and holy-leaf green ribbon.
NEWEST FASHIONS FOR NOVEMBER
Through the fogs and thick atmosphere that generally prevail in this most unpleasant month of the year, we have been gratified with beholding some ladies eminent for rank, fashion, and beauty, who have already emerged from their country recesses, to grace the first metropolis in the world; where, shining like glittering stars amidst the gloom, they cheer the sight, and dispense pleasure and hilarity by their enlivening presence.
The bleak north-wind has, at times, been heard, and has warned the fair to wrap round her form the warm enveloping Pyrenean mantle, or the yet more comfortable and close pelisse; the former are expected to be much in requisition at the commencement of winter; they are chiefly of levantine, of a dark hue, well wadded, and lined with bright and beautiful colours; when the mantle is puce-colour, or black, the lining is generally the colour of the bright Ceylon ruby, which, being paler than the other Oriental rubies, and particularly bright above even the Brazilian ruby, has a charming effect. Mantles of a fine lavender grey of the new Pyrennean form, are lined with rose colour. Pelisses, when of velvet, are of amaranth; royal purple or black; those of the two latter colours are fastened down the front with the delicate pattes of the little zibeline in finely wrought gold, and gold bracelets confine the sleeves of this most comfortable of all winter out-door coverings. Fur tippets of every description are worn over warm high dresses, or over the rich silk pelisse, they consist chiefly of ermine, the grey squirrel, and the valuable zibeline. The Norway-rat-fur declines in price; it was getting very common last year; we shudder at its plenitude, yet till that Norwegian scourge is totally annihilated, we yet wish to see it worn, as it encourages the hunters to attempt its destruction.
Several ladies belonging to our court, during the short mourning for Louis XVIII. wore, in ordinary costume, rich, and highly glazed black satin, with three rows of narrow triple flounces of italian net, bound and headed by black satin narrow rouleaux: the corsages were quite plain, and were made high or low, with short sleeves or long, according to the time of day or style of dress. Satins are expected to be very prevalent for dresses this winter. We have seen a most beautiful robe for half dress, which is perfectly unique in its kind, and is called the Arachne robe; if that unfortunate nymph ever spun anything of so fine a texture as the material this dress is made of, we wonder not at her daring to rival Minerva at spinning: it is made of the fine elastic net-work, which compose the rainbow elastic shawls, and is lined throughout with white gossamer satin: the ground of the net is of the palest shade of peach-blossom, with sprigs of different colours, of the Indian kind, beautifully shaded. The body is made partially low, and the front en gerbe; the skirt is trimmed en pelisse down each side of the front, and round the border, with satin rouleaux and cordons, correspondent in colour with the sprigs: these trimmings separate, as they reach the hem at the bottom, and the separation is filled in by an antique point a la grecque, which has the appearance of a semi-tabliere. The sleeves are moderately wide, and are fastened from the wrist, half way up the arm, with straps the same as the rouleau trimming; the only fault we find with this expensive dress, is its not appearing so valuable as it is; it requires a close inspection to discover its beauties. White dresses are not yet laid aside: they are of fine jaconet muslin, trimmed with flounces of exquisite embroidery; over the last of these flounces is a slight bouillon of embroidered muslin, with open-work, through which is run a broad lapis of coloured satin ribbon; the corsage and sleeves are beautifully embroidered or trimmed with that elegant and continually improving article, Urling’s lace, and fanciful ornaments of satin lapis ribbon. Gauze, richly figured, either brocaded, or flock gauze is preferred for ball dresses to tulle or crepe lisse. The half-dresses are simple: they are made much en blouse, but the blouse of the English is certainly an improvement on the French. Striped silks of a thicker texture than those worn in the spring, seem in favour. A few corsages have been seen, very fancifully trimmed about the bust; some with points, from whence depend drop buttons, others with chicoree trimmings laid in bias; and as these trimmings are put on, in a way that seems an improvement on the gallo-greek style, when they are well disposed, they impart a fullness and breadth to the chest, where it is wanting; but that is not a defect among the English ladies, and therefore this way of making the corsage only looks well on those that are spare. The borders of dresses are ornamented with rows of triple flounces, points a la neige, reversed bunches of loto leaves, and bouillons. Flowers on ball dresses are, at present, but carelessly scattered; bouillons of gauze or tulle, with blond flounces, form the other ornaments, interspersed with satin in various ways, and these materials are equally in request, either for the dress evening party, or for the ball-room.
Last month was famous for the invention of several charming head-dresses; a few have now been added of a still more novel description. One is a full dress Neapolitan cap of white tulle over white satin, richly embroidered, and sprinkled over with ornaments of polished steel; nothing can equal the work on the summit of the crown, where the steel, in fine threads, forms the finest open work, surrounded in a superb pattern by thicker threads and beads in embossments; in front is a small sprig of wheat-ears, in polished steel, and a plume of marabout feathers finishes the splendid head-dress. Another new full dress toque did not please us quite so well; though it is well fancied, there are but few faces that it will become; the part that lies on the front of the hair, and it is brought rather low over the forehead, is of silver net; and is surmounted by points … blue satin edged with silver and finished … of white feathers, tipped with blue. … toque hat is most beautiful; for, as … was symbolical of variety, so, that of … of this head-dress, its light caul of tulle … pink satin rouleaux, with the delicate .. colour of the satin hat part, that is turn … down, and sideways, in so many bewitching … while an unrivalled plume of short white … is taught to play over the whole in all … but all description of this truly unique … fail; it must be seen to be rightly appreciated … only fit for a fashionable belle; and belle, … animated countenance, she ought to be, … it. A new cap for the dejeune is invented … formed of two fichus, trimmed round … lace; one point of these lies on the … the front of a cornette; it ties under the … is slightly ornamented with a handsome … ribbon of two colours. The St. Cecilia diadem … private concerts, is another novelty; it is … blond. Encircling the hair in the front are … like those of the martyr St Catherine’s … are of tulle edged with blond, and white … caul is transparent and very simple: this requires fine hair, and much taste in the …
A very superbe cornette of blond, of a … beautiful pattern, is well worthyb of admiration for its shape, and the elegant manner in which the blond borders fall over each other: it is ornamented with pink gauze, brocaded ribbon. Caps of Mechlin lace, ornamented with lapis blue ribbon, and with white flowers are much worn for in-door … and a turban toque is expected to be much … at the theatres, and friendly evening parties … white satin; in the front is placed an … formed of turquoise stones, and the white relieved by blue crape, and plumes of white feathers. Black satin hats, with either black or white feathers, slightly … in high favour; and black bonnets, with … flowers are expected to be again in request this winter; already some of them have made their appearance; their size and shape are very becoming … lappets that confine them are of black s… and tulle, but they no longer float; the … the chin, or the left side, which is certainly … appropriate to winter. Chip hats are no longer … and transparent bonnets have totally disappeared; a few of white gros de Naples, are still seen in carriages, and leghorn hats and bonnets … with richly striped dark-coloured ribbons are much in favour for the morning promenade.
On the 17th of September, the court went into morning for seven months, on the death of his Majesty, Louis XVIII.
The time of mourning is divided into three degrees; the first for three months, the second for two, and the last for two months; the orders are as folloes:
FIRST MOURNING – For men’s full court dress, or for ordinary costume. – Crape sword knots, waistcoats and breeches of black cloth; the shirt frill and ruffles of plain lawn, the sword-hilt and buckles lackered black. Black worsted stockings and black gloves. The military wear only a crape round the arm, crape sword-knots and hat-bands. The usual dress is a complete suit of black, without buttons, with very deep weepers, during the first month, and narrow ones during the second and third; frill and ruffles of plain lawn; sword-hilt and buckles bronzed, stockings of black worsted, and long crape hat-band.
For Ladies. – During the first month, dresses of black stuffs, trimmed with the same, coif and fichu of black crape. During the other two months, … the first period, a dress of black stuff, trimmed with crape, cap and fichu of white crape, stockings and cloves of black silk, jet ornaments.
SECOND PERIOD. – Court and civil costume. – Crape sword-knots, waistcoat and breeches of black cloth. Shirt frill and ruffles of muslin with a broad hem, black silk stockings; sword-hilt and buckles as before. Officers with crape sword-knots and round the arm.
Usual dress. – An entire suit of black with buttons … frill and ruffles of broad-hemmed muslin, black silk stockings, sword-hilt of polished steel or silver, silver buckles, and the hat without a hat band.
For Ladies. – Dress of black silk, trimmed with white crape, white crape cap, stockings and gloves of black silk, ornaments, pearls and diamons.
THIRD PERIOD.- The men to wear waistcoats and breeches of black silk, and the sword hilts and buckles as usual, at court. For the usual dress costume, coat, waistcoat and breeches of black silk, sword-hilt and buckles of polished steel or silver.
For Ladies. – A dress of white or black and white pearl and diamond ornaments. No coloured gems to be worn during the whole time of mourning.
During the time that the theatres were closed, there were seen on the Boulevards, and in the Champs Elysees, a great many ladies in white dresses of muslin, organdy, or cambric, with black crape hats ornamented with black flowers, or black ostrich feathers, slightly curled, or else with flat, triangular bows of crape. On some of the white dresses were worn black sashes, a la Leonide, where the ribbon formed an X on the breast, and a V behind: others wore fichus a la neige, forming two pelerines, one over the other, cut in very sharp points.
There have lately been produced from the work-rooms of our dress-makers, some gowns of black cachemire, the corsages of which are ornamented with broad worsted braiding. The mancherons, or the sleeves of these dresses are bouillonnes, and are bordered and relieved by the same braiding; the sleeves are long and wide, and are confined by five or six bands of puckered crape. The trimming round the border of the skirt is composed of bouillons of cachemire, separated by rows of braiding.
Many black satin hats are seen covered with crape. The strings are of ribbon, the lappets of gauze, but either are tied and form a bow near the left ear. The crowns of the mourning hats are very low and the brims large.
The toques for mourning are of crepe lisse in bias, and are more in the form of a diadem than a turban, on one side is fixed a plume of drooping feathers.
The fans are of crepe, or of black glazed paper: black sticks and fastenings.
Among the colours that are worn with black, by persons who are not in a situation to wear mourning according to the order, we have remarked various shades of grey. All the grey stuffs, whether they are of lavender or of blue grey, have broad black stripes. Young persons and children, who are not dressed entirely in black, have, at least, a sash, gloves, and veil of black; the ribbons on their hats are also black. The rest of the costume is white.
Some fans have been seen in ivory stained black, they are carved in open work; there are also some black paper fans, striped with white.
Diamonds and pearls cannot be worn during a court mourning for the first three months. Jet, fer de Berlin, and polished steel, bronze, are the only ornaments allowed in the jewellery line. The last of these articles are most admired. Small bags a la Melpomene, or au Phenix, present an elegant dispsal of foliage, in black gros de Naples, ornamented with open tufts; this foliage being united forms a kind of basket, either round or square. The new mourning pins and brooches are simple but allegorical.
In the first visits of ceremony paid at court, it was remarked that the dresses of the ladies were of bombazin trimmed with crape; the bodies were made very low, and the short sleeves remarkably full. Some had long transparent sleeves of black crape. The head-dress was a cap of black crape which discovered two tufts of hair; depending from these caps was a long veil.
At all the public places, whether at the theatres or the promenades, we meet more than two thirds of the people in mourning: ladies, whose limited income will not allow them to adopt the complete costume, are, nevertheless seen with all the accessories that mourning requires; such as black shawls, sashes, hats, stockings and gloves of the same sable hue; in order to evince the share they take in the general sorrow.
Several ladies distinguished by their rank in society, and famed for the elegance of their taste, have as yet worn no other dress than bombazin, made en blouse. The bottom of the skirt is trimmed with three bias folds, very close to each other; often a fold of crape … the two that are of the same material as the dress.
Dresses of black cachemire, the trimming f… one very large bouillon, fastened with tufts o… trimming and crossing diagonally the bo… equal distances, are much admired. However, the generality of dresses are of gros de Naples, … either with bias folds, honeycombs, or bound with flock gauze. They are made low to display the bust: and the fichus and colerettes of black … are marked by much diversity in their manner. We have seen in the Tuileries a very pretty dress composed of a black crape pelisse lined with black … between the two broad folds with which … faced on each side, from the shoulders to … were placed small black buttons of jet … buttons were of the same shape as those … the Hussars; they were placed very close to one another; the sash and bracelets were of … black caps that were requisite for … Court, in the commencement of the … were of black cachemire.
The hats are of gros de Naples, with a round crown, placed very forward; the brim is long in front and short .. the ears: the bows and lappets are of gauze … ends of the lappets are sometimes finished … acorn. Undress bonnets are of gros de Naples, gauze or crape; they are bent down over … head, and they have a chicoree trimming … edge.
The cold has, for a few days, … tense; so that pelisses and mantles were universal; those that were made for the occasion, were of black cachemire, lined with … and satin collars. However, coloured … often seen with mourning dresses, and are … even on the days of the King’s entry, … Tuileries, and on coming out of the theatre.
Onward to December 1824
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