Newest London and Paris Fashions for October 1824

Dinner Party Dress


Dress of sea-green gros de Naples, made partially high, with light ornaments on the corsage, in stripes downwards, but so calculated as to not take off the close fitting to the contour of the waist, which is finished by a narrow tucker of blond. The border of the skirt is ornamented en Cherubins, with a novel kind of puckering next the wadded rouleau over the hem. The long sleeves rather close to the arm, with full mancherons, an the wrist confined by a finely-wrought gold bracelet, with turquoise-stone fastening, Canezou fichu, of Urling or french tulle, trimmed with very fine lace or blond, and finished at each end by a rosette of white watered ribbon. Ariadne-toque, of pink and white satin, with a delicate plume of white feathers, tipped and edged with pink. Ariadne streamer, fastened on one side as a lappet.

Blouse Pelisse Dress


Pelisse of pale cinnamon brown of gros de Naples, lined with pink, faced and trimmed round the border with ethereal blue and pink; sleeves en gigot, confined at the wrists with two bracelets. Falling rounded collar trimmed at the edge to correspond with the skirt, and fastened in front with a rosette of ribbon of the same colours. Colerette of fine India muslin, trimmed round with lace. Bonnet of white watered gros de Naples, bound and trimmed with blue and pink striped ribbon. Walking slippers or half-boots of kid, the same colour as the pelisse, and canary yellow kid gloves.


“Fashion in every thing bears soverign sway.”

So says the bard, and his assertion is verified by the continued sojournment in the country of the higher orders, in spite of chilly rains, and the sun’s enlivening light, because fashion so ordains. The summer recesses are all life, gaiety, and bustle, while the west-end of the town presents a dreary vacancy, wanting the splendid carriages to give brilliancy to the spacious streets and squares of the metropolis, and the presence of those for whom the tasteful saloons pour forth at the midnight hour, the blaze of artificial day, equalled only,

“By gems and radiant eyes.”

The orders, however, given to the most skilful of our marchandes de modes, keep them in continual employ, and they are preparing, with incessant assiduity, those various auxiliaries to beauty that the toilet affors, especially when guided by the suggestions of elegance and taste.

The versatility and beauty of the head-dresses, in the cap and cornette style, we believe were never equalled in the appearance they bear this month. The cornette a la neige, is much more becoming, from its dimensions being less broad, than the cap a la neige, worn last month: this cornette is composed of blond, narrow rouleaux of pink satin, and detached bouquets of various flowers, placed in the interstices of points formed of blond, lightly quilled. The dejeune cornette is of fine mechlin lace, with two simple bows of striped, coloured ribbon, and the home, or half dress cornette is of blond of an entirely new pattern, the edge in Castillian points, and very open; it is very tastefully ornamented with small bows of rich brocade gauze pink ribbon; a friendly party dinner cornette of the same kind of blond, lightly scattered over with small bouquets of different flowers grouped together. The summer theatre turban cap is a very elegant head-dress; it is composed of plain white Japanese gauze, laid in bi-folds, ornamented with full blown roses and lillies of the valley. The half dress cornettes of tulle and blond are trimmed with blue or rose coloured satin; the blond border is caught up over each temple, with a variegated carnation: when the cornette is trimmed with blue, it is ornamented in front with a half wreath, of the flower called Solomon’s seal, made of feathers. A blouse head-dress is in favour for receiving morning visits, or when the lady is indisposed; it is of figured tulle with a very broad border of blond, and is finished with single knots of blue satin ribbon; two very long lappets of blue satin and blond hang depending over the shoulders: the face should be young and pretty that wears this head-dress. The Mary Stuart hat-cap is a charming evening head-dress; the front consists of a double row of fluted broad blond wired, by which means it bends over the forehead, and extends wide over each temple, in the true ancient scotch style; the crown is of blue gauze with plaid work in narrow rouleaux of blue satin; to divide the crown from the head-piece is a broad blond, set en fers de cheval, one standing up like a wing on the left side, and on the right, and in front is a full blown rose. On the left temple, under the border, but without catching it up, is a sprig of acorns and oakleaves.

Black is expected to be very much won at the decline of the year; at present that sombre tint is confined to richly figured gauze and lace; and then it appears not gloomy, because it is generally spread over a white satin slip, or one of peach, pink, jonquil, or bright ruby; black satins, however, elegantly embellished with broad white lace of a vandyck pattern, are among the promised dresses for the close of autumn. The embroidered muslin petticoats, worn with silk pelisses and spences, have much open work in the borders, and very deep scallops at the edges. Coloured dresses of gros de Naples, richly trimmed about the corsages and sleeves with blond, are much worn at dinner and evening parties; a broad border of double rouleaux of satin in separate rows, divided by chain beading, or rich silk cordon forms the favourite ornament on the skirt of this dress. High dresses of gros de Naples or Levantine, are now more worn than those of white muslin for home costume; they are of light, but unobtrusive colours, such as fawn, date leaf, or light slate. Ball dresses are of tulle generally placed over white satin: the border of puckered tulle; each pucker which is long and full is confined by white satin straps of fluted rouleaux, with small bouquets of flowers. The corsages most preferred are of satin of a light summer colour; they are rather more ornamented than they were last month, with drop fillagree buttons and silk cordon.

Black satin bonnets are already in preparation; they are of a beautiful shape and moderate size; they differ, however, from those worn last winter, and the strings are placed very backward, underneath the bonnet: one we have seen is lined with coquelicot, and is ornamented in wreaths, placed horizontally, of scarlet thistles made of feathers. As the winter comes on, these bonnets will, no doubt, be succeeded by those of velvet. White hats and bonnets are, however, at present, the rage: some transparent white hats are made of stiffened net, and rouleaux of satin, in alternate rows; the puffings of the white Japanese gauze round the crowns have only novelty to recommend them; the gauze of this kind is rather thick, and muslin-like in itself, and such a mode of trimming, if not relieved by light bouquets of coloured flowers, or a plume of variegated feathers, has a dead whiteness that is unbecoming to the complexion, and though the hat is transparent, makes it look heavy. A large carriage bonnet of plain white gros de Naples, is much in esteem; it is bent down on the forehead, and has a prodigious number of marabout feathers playing over the crown and brim in various directions.

The gowns for home costume, as we observed above, are made high, or sometimes only partially so; admitting a handsome lace frill, or collerette tippet below the throat, so as not to hide its beauty when well turned: we are happy to observe that the English ladies attend more to … off their peculiar charms of person, or … best improve their slight defects, than … fashion, which will not suit all alike. There is nothing new in the make of the spencers or pelisses, nor is it likely that there will be until the winter … French pelerine tippets made of broad ribbon … very long ends in front, chinese crape … bordered silk scarfs and cachmires are the most favourite out-door envelopes of the …

The colours most in esteem are pink, …, blue fawn colour, and bright geranium.


BUTTONS, placed very close to each other, are … only worn to fasten down pelisses, but there are … three rows placed down the front of the skirts … gowns: the rows on each side extend towards the border, so as to form a kind of apron. There are generally nine dozen of buttons made use of in this new species of trimming. There is nothing new in the manner of arranging the hair, nor in the form of the hats; the pilgrim’s hat predominates when it is of Leghorn. Straw hats have a large bow on one side, and are in the shape of those worn by the Swiss peasantry. Plumes of Marabout feathers are often worn on hats; chip hats are ornamented with large roses, or with pionies.

The lappets of some chip hats are lined, they are generally of tulle lined with broad coloured ribbon. They are sometimes an ell in length, and are not unusually fixed under the sash. Bonnets of gros de Naples are generally of a sea green or of rose colour.

One of the prettiest blouses in Organdy, embroidered in coloured worsted, has been seen at Dieppe, since which the most elegant Parisians have adopted them: the embroidery consists of three rows of bunches of lilacs, alternately lilac and white; to separate each row are two bias folds, very close to each other: the flowers are diversified contrariwise in each row. Some fashionists place at the edge of white chip hats a border made of rose leaves; round the crown is a band of the same, fastened on one side by a bow of white satin, with long ends, and on the other are two bows of ribbon; Leghorn hats are generally ornamented with a bunch of pinks or red daisies, and on hats of crape or gros de Naples, scabious with blue or green pistils. Blue bells, or single hyacinths of rose colour, are scattered over blond cornettes, they are also placed on most dress caps. Among the bonnets of gros de Naples that are trimmed with chevaux de frize of pinked silk, those of a bright apricot colour are most admired. We have seen at a brilliant evening dress party, a Spanish toque formed of striped gauze in bias; the stripes of rose colour on white; the centre was ornamented with a rosette of pearls, which was placed at the base of two curled feathers, one white, the other rose colour.

Straw colour, flesh colour, camel’s hair, or white, are the favourite colours for bonnets; those that are white are tied with white watered ribbon, or not unusally, with shaded ribbons, striped, and chequered with the most striking colours. On hats of gros de Naples, when the brims are plain and extended, the only trimming is a chichoree [A trimming resembling the curled leaves of endive], formed en dents de loups to the top of the crown: this trimming is always of some very conspicuous colour; for example, bright crimson on dark green, lemon colour on blue, mahogany brown on white. The fashionmongers have made use all this summer of satin and ribbon by whole pieces, in the … of hats. The crowns of leghorn hats are … by a band of flame coloured gros de Naples in the from of cockle shells. Musk roses … placed in the front of these hats, of a … than the natural flower. Tress toques are of crape lisse or crepe gauffree, and are generally … they are made in the russian form, and … with as many marabouts as they can find … them between; a plat of satin or crape … bandeau. The uncertantu of the weather … reason, that, instead of a white dress, … calash, a tilbury, or a landau, a black … is adopted. With this dress, which is worn … black satin slip, white gloves with open … seen; the shoes are of black shining … Turkey leather: the hat, scarf, and … coloured.

Notwithstanding the unfavourable weather … morning, and though the evenings are … fete at Vincennes was beautiful. There … charming dresses of that material woven … bark of trees; they were white with blue, … mahogany brown stripes; others were of light … yellow and walnut tree brown stripes. The … were made with falling collars, and the … were plaited in regular plaits; two broad … finished the border, and worn under the … a fichu of muslin, laid in large plaits. … of checkered muslin, called English muslin … the corsages puckered and confined at … bands, crosswise, had very full sleeves, … sleeves of plain muslin; these were terminated by three embroidered wrist bands; the trimm… border of these dresses was composed of … of muslin bouillones, each separated by … embroidery in white.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

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