Newest London and Paris Fashions for September 1824

Ball Dress


Dress of yellow crepe lisse over white gossamer satin; the dress elegantly ornamented with puckered flutings of gauze separated by satin rouleaux and beautifully finished by bouquets of yellow roses; the petticoat part ornamented a l’Arcadie. The corsage plain with a Sevigne drapery across the bust. The sleeves composed almost fine soft of fine white blond. Eastern turban, the entirely material divided by bands of finely wrought gold, with a tasteful plume of white feathers tipped and edged with yellow. Broad bracelets of wrought, or chased gold, with a ruby clasp. Necklace and ear-rings set a l’antique, of rubies and gold.

Sea Side Dress


Round high dress of India muslin, with scalloped tuck foldings at the border, and blouse sleeves. French fichu tippet, made of ribbon, in double points, the ends brought in front, under a belt of the same, fastened with a gold buckle. Over the fichu tippet, a falling collar of fine lace. Bonnet of pink gros de Naples, with honeycomb edge of pink gauze; the crown ornamented with large bows of broad pink ribbon. Parasol of pistachio colour fringed with white. Over the wrists of the dress, three bracelets of gold and garnets placed at equal distances. Maiden’s blush-rose coloured kid gloves and shoes.


It is at this autumnal period, that the Proprietors of THE WORLD OF FASHION, more particularly avail themselves of the indefatigable attention of their numerous correspondents, now stationed at the most favoured summer retreats of the great and gay, where taste, beauty, and elegance hold their temporary reign. From these genuine sources, and the information from one of the most eminent among those who devote their time and abilities to the service of the toilet, we present our kind and munificent patronesses with the following statement, which, if it bears not the importance and versatility that mark our winter fashions, will yet be found to contain some novelties and improvements in modern attire.

The trimmings on dresses are more appropriate in their mixture and association of colours than they were last month; and white is now very generally worn at all times of the day, either in fine cambric for the morning, the finest decca muslin for the dinner party, or the gossamer-like gauze lisse for the fete champetre. We have seen a most elegant India muslin dress for a dinner party costume, it was superbly trimmed with the finest Mechlin lace, and ethereal blue satin ribbon; the corsage was formed entirely of lace, and worn over one of blue satin; the sleeves short, and the full trimmings of lace on them were disposed in those light and elegant wavings, as to preserve all the beauty of the pattern; small sprigs of blue bells ornamented the bust, and caught up a part of the sleeve. Where the dress is of tulle or gauze lisse, the body is generally of white satin; this body is distinguished by a plainness we never witnessed before; it is, however, a simplicity that is very attractive; for it marks out in a very conspicuous manner the charms of a fine shape: it is, in its present plain state, an article of dress that never ought to be adopted unless made by one at the head of her profession and well known for her peculiar manner of well fitting; the one we saw sat like a glove, but the corsets made by this Marchande de Modes, are certainly unrivalled, and therefore it is not wonderful that she so well knows how to set off the contours of the female form: these new corsages also fasten behind, and the full sleeves are ornamented with blond. A dress of gros de Naples, made partially, high, and intended for social dinner parties, is much admired; it is of a bright Apollo’s hair colour; a collar falls over the shoulders, the edge in battlement indentures, finished by a very narrow binding of lilac satin, which forms a beautiful association with the colour of the dress: this collar is ornamented besides with narrow lilac pearl silk beading and fillagree-wrought lilac buttons. Another dress, for in-door costume, is of Egyptian sand colour, it is made high, with a collar partially standing up, and then turning back again; it has long full sleeves, and is made altogether extremely plain; this colour looks extremely well when trimmed with ponceau, or with bright Burgundy colour. Slight silks with stripes or small chequers, are favourite materials for home attire: but white dresses are very general, and ornamented with rich embroidery; most of them have flounces edged with work, and splendid rows of embroidery between each flounce; such are the petticoats worn with each summer coloured spencer, that can be thought on; and which spencer is often retained the whole day, in the rural residence: this smart and pleasing article of dress is trimmed in various ways; in embossments of satin, representing foliage, Mexican plumes, branches of Lotos, and often with imitative braiding.

As we predicted, the gaudy mixture of various discordant colours in feathers and flowers, is rapidly declining; and the finest bonnet that has appeared at one of our most fashionable summer recesses, is of pink figured gros de Naples, crowned with full blown roses with their buds and foliage: a carriage hat, too, of lemon coloured crape, has a little of the old finery about it; but it is stylish and becoming: it is ornamented at the edge with long puffs of plaited gauze, the colour of the bonnet; the puffs are separated by scarlet wheat ears, and the flowers that crown it consist of scarlet lichens and corn poppies. Puckered tulle over stiffened net, is a favourite material for bonnets of the transparent kind; the flowers on the crown are numerous, and consist of almost every kind and colour; but as they are well grouped together, and the bonnet is white, they look well. A dress hat, shaped a la Marguerite, is of transparent tulle, and is ornamented with a superb plume of flat ostrich feathers.

Amongst the newest head-dresses, is the turban cornette, and a beautiful cap a la neige: the former is of etherial blue gauze; and next the face is one row of very rich white blond, of a Vandyck pattern, set on scanty; this border lies on the hair, and gives a fine relief to the head-dress: slightly scattered amongst the puckerings of the blue gauze, are small bunches of pink convolvuluses, and lillies of the valley; this is one of the most becoming and elegant articles we have yet seen of the cornette kind. The bonnet a la neige, is fabricated completely of the best and richest blond; this material forms an ornament in front, and nearly all round the head, en fers de cheval, in each hollow is fixed a beautiful flower; a variegated carnation, a half blown rose, &c. Very long lappets of tulle and blond, rounded at the ends, depend gracefully from this head-dress; this novelty and taste of which, certainly form its highest recommendation, as the manner in which it is ornamented makes the head look large, and it will not do for a lady who has a full round face; but the oval countenance will look well in it.

Though muslin pelisses are much in favour when the weather is sultry, yet in September, it is most likely that the light-coloured silk pelisses will be again resumed; indeed some are in preparation of a more demi-saison colour, for the autumn, and it is expected that violet and puce colour will be the colours much in favour for this comfortable out door enveloppe. Shawls of Chinese … at present, in very high request.

The form of the crowns of straw bonnets … every day; and the ribbon that surrounds … not be too broad. Sometimes it is a piece … edged with two narrow straw ornaments … a ribbon: in the front is a bouquet of …

Instead of placing at the bottom of a … when the hat is of chip, a bow with the … they now place all over the crown, a … light flowers, with full ornament on the …The fashionists surround the brims … coloured, blue, jonquil, or white crape … broad bias, at equal distance falls … jessamine, seemingly escaping from the … that ornaments the hat.

The most approved colours are pink, …-colour, cerulean blue, Apollo’s hair, and …


We have remarked a very elegant dress of white watered gros de Naples, trimmed with three rows of open honeycomb a la Neige, in tulle; a toque was worn with it of blond, forming a kind of bonnet on which were ornaments of white satin arranged with the most exquisite taste. White chip hats are ornamented with pionies, or with a very large full blown rose with buds. The hair, elegantly drest, is often ornamented with a tuft of flowers, on one temple, and on the other a cluster of curls. Dresses of Organdy, with clear muslin sleeves very full; the corsages the same as last month, nor is there any change in the dispsal of the trimming.

At the late brilliant fetes at Tivoli, the dresses were remarkable for their neat simplicity more than for their elegance: gowns of white Organdy trimmed in various ways; chip hats, ornamented with flowers and marabouts; pilgrims’ hats of leghorn, shot silk scarfs, and sashes of coloured ribbons were very general. Sometimes were seen very broad ribbons, two ends of which belonging to the sash, hung down in front of the dress; they were fastened at the waist by a buckle: these ribbons were so broad, that they appeared like those little aprons worn by the young swiss females, or like those seen on the stage, where the actress or the dancer is drest as a shepperdess. Tucks are no longer in favour at the border of muslin dresses: narrow flounces or rows of coxcombs are more admired, between each row of either is one of fine embroidery. A pelisse of cambric, made to wrap over the bust, yet beautifully fitted to the shape, is much admired; a broad honeycomb of plain muslin formed of three rows of flutings, is placed on the side that crosses over; the neck is partially left open, and a falling collar, with the same trimming finishes it; but this collar is very narrow and so well cut, that it appears as if it belonged to the corsage, and does not spread over the shoulders. The skirt is finished with only a simple broad hem. Long pointed handkerchiefs, in muslin trimmed all round with a double honeycomb in net, are often seen instead of shawls or scarfs; a large bow of ribbon is fixed at the extremity of each end of the handkerchief.

Next to the corsages en blouses, which are generally adopted, even when the dress is of silk, muslin, or other summer materials, there are many pelisses with strait backs, and with the body in front laid in plaits from the top, and these are sometimes carried down the whole length of the skirt, which flies open; though the greater part are closed by a row of buttons set very close together. Pelerines, whether formed of ribbons, or in muslin, are very general; but have continually something new in the manner of their being cut or shaped: large scallops, when the pelerine is of muslin are trimmed with a full plaiting of fine net; and in this manner are trimmed with triple falling collar. Some hats of white striped gauze have the brims puckered on each side; the puckerings separated by narrow stripes of straw, and these straw stripes trim the ribbons round the crown. Two narrow scarfs serve for lappets, and are trimmed round with a plaiting of narrow net; the ends terminate by a very full tuft of straw-coloured silk.

White dresses, either in cambric or muslin, and a few gowns of lilac gros de Naples, composed the dress of that small number of females who were present at the last sitting of the Academy of les Belles Lettres. The white dresses were made en blouse, and those of gros de Naples, had a corsage of drapery, and the sleeves ornamented with plaitings of silk, pinked. Large bouquets placed over the ear were the ornaments on leghorn hats; the flowers are lightly spread out; composed of sweet peas, mignionet, honey-suckles, and syringoes. When a rose is full blown it is worn alone. Some fashionists place, in a strait line, three flat feathers, one of which, that is, the middle one, surpasses the others in height. These feathers are worn instead of flowers: and are seen on some leghorn hats. Two rows of full honey-comb trimming are placed at the edge of bonnets made of gros de Naples, only one of these rows is the same colour as the bonnet.

There are some very beautiful leghorn hats, ornamented with two white feathers, which are elevated on each side, and joining at the top form an arch; at the base of each feather is a cockade of ribbon. Some young persons wear their leghorn hats quite round, and very large, but slightly turned up all round, and these are called Auvergnat hats because they are bordered all round with narrow black velvet, and a black velvet band incircles the crown, fastened with a polished steel buckle. The brims of gauze hats are very shallow; three bias folds of satin or gros de Naples are placed round the crown, and between each is a bouillon of … of different colour to the hat; the flowers that complete the trimming are small daisies, or pinks with ears of ripe corn. A cockade … ends fringed, placed on one side and serv… fastening to a plume of marabouts, forms a … ornament on all white hats; the marabout … above the crowns. They give the name of … Mazurier, to a rose which appears to be … four or five places; this is worn on those hats that are in imitation of straw; it is surrounded by a great number of buds. Bonnets are trimmed with chicoree the same colour as the … sometimes the crown is quartered like a … tied with a fichu en marmotte. In undress, the favourite colour for young persons is the … ; married ladies, blue; chequers are the favourite figures on silks, very small. The form of pelisses, buttoning down the front, with two pelerine capes, is so general, that even children wear them. With these pelisses, there is usually … round collar of embroidered muslin. Many fashionables wear Organdy blouses emrboidered in … over bright rose colour, jonquil, turquoise stone, and even lilac; the colour of these under … sets off the embroidery which is between each fold. A belt a la Leonide, in sarsnet ribbon … dispensibly requisite with an Organdy dress.

Amongst the fashionable jewellery, must be … heads in relief, in the antique style, except Vesuvian lava. The colour of this lava … with dead gold. These heads are used as … girdles, necklaces, and bracelets.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

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