This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.
FRENCH FANCY-BALL DRESS. – (Une Merveilleuse.)
The fancy-balls of the French were formerly entirely confined to one season of the year; but among the British now residing in France, are many of the fair daughters of Hibernia, who are passionately fond of fancy balls, and who were the first who introduced them to that high favour they are now in England. Since the sojournment of our Islanders in the French capital, though confined to a select few, and those of the very higher classes, the fancy-ball of various travestissemens, has been introduced with, a success which foretells its progressive influence.
It seems, however, that they have not quite attained to the true spirit of the beautiful diversity displayed by the British on these occasions; and that their fancy displays itself much in a kind of burlesque on the present fashions: such as the short petticoats, tunic robes, pinched-in waists, and flying ribbons at present in vogue. Such appears to be the design of the dress which we present to our readers, which was worn on a particular fancy fete, by a French lady of distinction.
It consists of a short petticoat of garnet-coloured satin, trimmed by a band of velvet the same colour round the border, finished, we cannot say, next the feet, but considerably above the ancle, with narrow lace of a Vandycke pattern. Over this is a tunique robe of orange-coloured gros des Indes, lined, and turned back with facings of white satin, edged in battlement-notches. This tunique is short, is left very open in front, and has, on each hip, a band of orange ribbon with long ends. The back of the body, (for there is no appearance of it in front) with the Mancheron sleeves, are of white satin, trimmed with blond; to these are attached long sleeves of orange-colour, fitting tight to the arm, and where the sleeves unite at the elbow are orange-coloured ribbon, with long bows and ends.
The bust-part of this dress is left extremely open, yet it is entirely concealed: a double trimming of blond on white satin, unites at the waist to the notched facings of white satin down each side of the tunique. A shirt of delicately fluted tulle is worn over the neck, and front of the bust, turning back with a fine Vandycke lace collar, and the shirt fastened down the front by buttons of emeralds set in gold.
Over this is a scarf of embroidered tulle, the ends depending low down the front of the petticoat, and finished all round by a very narrow Vandycke edging. The hair is very elegantly arranged in the newest French style, and is ornamented on the left side with a bow of orange-coloured ribbon, of rather an outre size; from this spring four black Heron’s feathers; two almost erect, two drooping. The stockings are of white ribbed silk; with shoes of whito satin cut
down remarkably low, and very long quartered. The ear-pendants are large, and of the new heavy fashion of massive gold. Over the neck is thrown a chain of gold beads.
We have authority for saying that this dress is worn to ridicule the female dandies of France, known by the title of Merveilleuses: ladies whose aim is to excite sensation and wonder, by their following every fashion, in the extreme.
A DINNER-DRESS.
A dress of very light fawn-coloured gros de Naples, with a very broad flounce, in points; those points which are at the head of the flounce pointing upwards; each are edged with green satin brocaded in spots of ruby colour. The body is made plain, with a coller a la Paladin, pointed all round; the two front points, longer than the others, terminate under the sash, and form a kind of stomacher in front of the bust; and are trimmed like the rest of the collar by a full quilling of blond and a narrow rouleau of green satin; the sleeves are a l’Imbecille, and are finished at the wrist by a cuff trimmed with narrow blond; and confined next the hand by a neat gold bracelet with a pearl broach. A sash of plaid ribbon encircles the waist, of ruby, fawn-colour, and green, and ties in front with a small bow, and ends just above the head flounce. A papillon-rosette, formed of blond and green ribbon, is placed on each shoulder; though the breadth of this dress over the bust appears capacious, and the tucker of blond very narrow, yet the shoulders are more concealed, and it is altogether a very decorous improvement on the low dresses worn some months ago. The bonnet is of the last new shape which we so highly recommend; appearing like a hat in front, from being so becomingly short at the ears. It is of celestial blue gros de Naples, spotted with ruby, and finished by slight puffings of broad striped blue ribbon, and two blue aigrettes. A small bow is placed under the right side of the brim, on which side the bonnet ties close, with a bow; very broad strings float loose. The shoes are of lilac satin, The ear-pendants are of rubies.
A WALKING DRESS.
A lilac pelisse of reps silk, ornamented down the front of the skirt, where it fastens by embossed satin, representing leaves, with three points; these are divided by a rather full rouleau, on each side of which are spread out the leaves. The body is made plain, with sleeves a la Donna Maria; the two bands which confine the fulness of the sleeve at the top, have the appearance in front of a pelerine-cape; which it would not be possible to wear if the sleeves were left unconfined. The pelisse is made as high to the throat as possible, where it terminates by a narrow ruff of lace. The bonnet is of white satin, trimmed and tied with white striped ribbon; the crown is also ornamented with blond; and a demi-veil of blond turned up in front, is placed at the edge of the brim. A mentonniere of blond fastens the bonnet under the chin. The shoes are of black corded gros de Naples.
N. B. A back view of the same costume, in fawn-colour, with the bonnet trimmed with blue striped ribbon.
A CARRIAGE DRESS.
A pelisse of Cachemire; the colour tourterelle, made en tunique, with coloured Cachemire-shawl bordering. The body made plain, and the waist encircled by a band of the same kind of trimming which forms the tunique; sleeves a l’lmbecille, with rounded ornaments at the wrists, turned back the same as points; with a ruffle of lace next the hand, and beneath that a bracelet of aqua-marina, and gold. Two pelerine-capes, each edged round by shawl-trimming, descend over the shoulders; and a double ruff of lace encircles the throat, tied in front with white striped ribbon. The hat is of black velvet, trimmed under the brim, on the right side, with an ornament, en coquille, of broad blond, having, in the centre, a rosette of white striped ribbon; a rosette of which, is placed on the left side beneath the brim; and two long puffs of this ribbon, mingled with two of black velvet, ornament the crown.
FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.
FIG. 1. – Canezou-spencer of white jaconot muslin, the body laid in plaits, and a black satin fiancee round the throat, fastened in front by a gold buckle, A hat of pink gros de Naples, with very broad stripes of green and dark purple: the crown trimmed with bows of green ribbon, figured with purple.
N. B. – Back view of the same figure.
FIG. 2. – Front and back view of a crape beret of etherial-blue, ornamented by bands of silver; that part of the calotte inclosing the hair in front, formed of silver net-work.
FIG. 3. – Back and front view of a bonnet in white plush silk; with three bias stripes under the lining, of broad, pink plush; the edge of the brim bound with the same. The crown trimmed with a row of puffing all round, of broad, pink, striped ribbon, with a bow of the same on the left side.
FIG. 4. – Front and back view of a black blond cap, the edges of the blond embroidered with white, and the crown embroidered with white sprigs. The borders of this cap turn back, and over each temple is a bow of rose-coloured satin ribbon; a bandeau of which, crosses the forehead; puffs of the same ribbon are elegently disposed among the blond.
A CARRIAGE DRESS.
A dress of myrtle-green satin, with a broad hem at the border, headed by a braiding of satin. A Melclat-cloak in satin de laine, of a dark Etruscan brown, with broad stripes of scarlet, on which are Arabesque designs in black. A large pelerine cape descends rather lower than the elbows, and is surrounded by a deep fringe; over this is a rounded collar-cape, fringed in the same manner, the fringes of the same mingled colours as are found in the cloak, which fastens in front of the throat by a double broach of white and gold enamel, and is surmounted by a bouffont-ruff of net. A bonnet of black velvet with ornaments of black blond and plumage, with a black lace veil. Half-boots of black corded gros de Naples, and doe-skin gloves.
A WALKING DRESS.
A dress of milk-chocolate coloured gros de Naples, fastened down the front of the skirt with large rosettes, representing quatrefoil; the body en gerbe, with a pelerine-cape, trimmed round by broad fringe, with a beautifully wrought head; next the throat is a falling collar finished by the same kind of fringe, and surmounted by a very narrow, single ruff of lace. Sleeves a l’Imbecille, confined at the wrists by very broad bracelets of gold, fastened by an ornament-broach of jewels, composed of sapphires and rubies. Bonnet of pink gros de Naples, with large puffs of the same, in the centre of which is one of milk-chocolate colour. Half-boots of sage-green kid, and white gloves, embroidered at the back of the hand in colours.
A BALL DRESS.
Over a satin slip of bright Jonquil is worn a frock of tulle, of the same colour: above the broad hem, at the border, is a trimming, in wavings of gauze ribbon; each point of which is finished by a rosette of the same, and a full-blown Camelia (Japan rose) with its green foliage. The corsage is a la Sevigne; with very short sleeves, over which are ornaments a la Physche, of very broad, white blond. The hair is arranged in the Chinese style, with the loops of hair much elevated on the summit of the head; and is crowned by bouquets formed of ears of corn, full blown damask, or Japanese roses, and blue corn-flowers. The ear-pendants are en girandoles, and are, as well as the necklace, formed of cameos in coral. The shoes are white satin, tied en sandales.
N. B. Two back views are represented in this plate; one of the black velvet bonnets in the carriage dress; the other the head-dress in hair, a la Chinoise, on the ball-dress.
AN EVENING DRESS.
A dress of mignionet leaf-green satin, with two white blond flounces over a moderately broad hem; these flounces are at some distance from each other; and from the upper one to the feet, are placed, in front, four rosettes with one pointed end; in the centre of each a gold button. The body is plain, with fichu-robings, which are edged with white blond and fasten under the sash, which terminates in a bow in front, of the same kind as the rosettes at the border. A double ruff of lace comes just below the throat: as this is one of those high dresses, which a slight in- disposition may plead excuse from the usual etiquette of low dresses for evening parties. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille, with blond ruffles turned back; and next the hand very broad bracelets of braided hair, fastened by an emerald set in gold. A dress hat of white satin is trimmed under the right side of the brim with three ornaments of blond, and under the left by two rosettes of richly striped white gauze ribbon: the crown of the hat is ornamented with blond, and full bouquets of pink and white exotic flowers, The shoes are of green satin, the colour of the dress, and the gloves white kid.
SECOND EVENING DRESS. (Back View.)
A dress of etherial-blue crape, the corsage a la Sevigne; the sleeves a la Donna Maria, of white blond or crape; the Spanish points at the wrist, double, and of rich blond. The head-dress, a beret of blue crape, ornamented by bands of silver. This dress is trimmed at the border of the skirt, by a very full ruche, set on in points, forming an ornament nearly approaching to the knee.
A MORNING DRESS.
A pelisse robe de Chambre of some very fine stuff texture, such as double Merino, Lyonese-crape, or European Cachemire. This represented in our engraving is of a buff-coloured ground, on which is a running pattern of flowers of various colours. Over sleeves, which fit almost close to the arm, and terminate at the wrist by a cuff of royal-blue pluche de soie. are very loose sleeves below the elbow lined with blue plush, and which appear like the Russian-mantelet-cape. Over this is worn a pelerine of royal-blue plush silk, the ends dependent in front, to the feet. Round the throat is a very narrow, but full ruff of lace. The hair is arranged a la Madonna, with a cap of fine point lace in the Cornette-style, but not fastened under the chin. The slippers are of blue kid.
FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.
FIG. 1. – Beret cap of white satin and blond; the caul, white satin, and the front part formed of double points of blond; long lappets of blond depend over the back, and strings of gauze ribbon of pink float over the shoulders in front. At the base of the row of blond next the hair are bouquets of the yellow blossoms of the Auricula.
FIG. 2 – Head-dress in hair, parted on the forehead with full clusters of curls on each side of the face; on the summit of the head is a loop of hair, behind which the remainder is formed en corbeille, in open-work.
FIG. 3. – Back view of the same head-dress.
FIG. 4. Fashionable blond cap; the caul formed en coquille, by rouleaux of blue satin; long ends of blue satin ribbon with lappets of lace float loose.
FIG. 5. Beret of pink satin, ornamented by gold bands.
NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR DECEMBER, 1829.
Deeply penetrated with gratitude towards our fair and distinguished patronesses, for the increased success of our work, we feel it an incumbent duty to anticipate their wishes, by a faithful detail, both of English and foreign fashions, and their several changes; cautioning, at the same time, our general readers, to guard against following the extremes of fashion, for such arc always avoided by the female of real elegance. The dresses for the ball-room, and for the evening party, will be found, this month, more delicate in regard to what concerns the display of the shoulders; and though the petticoats are short, they are not indecorously so. The high patronage Mrs. BELL has long obtained from many ladies of the first rank, enables us, through her kind information, to offer a sure criterion, whereby to regulate the toilet of a distinguished female.
The most beautiful novelty in the hat department, is comprised in those for the carriage, one of which is of black velvet, bound with a bias of ponceau and black velvet figured in a pattern a la Grecque. The crown is trimmed with ornaments of black velvet, edged with the same velvet as that which forms the bias binding. A black weeping-willow feather, of tassel plumage, formed from what is called the ostrich-hair or barbs, droops gracefully over from the right side of the crown, and is fastened to one of the ornaments near the front, by a ponceau net- work, formed of narrow satin rouleaux.
A still more novel and truly superb carriage-bonnet, is of beautifully figured velvet; its colour is that of the dark velvet leaves, belonging to the petals of the pensee (heart’s-ease). White satin ribbon ornaments the crown, with a beautiful white weeping-willow feather, formed in the same manner, and of the same material as the black plumage above described. We particularly recommend the beautiful article of which this charming bonnet is made, which will be found far superior for winter than the newly-invented damask-satin; though the pattern on this splendid velvet is of a running kind, and the flowers represented thickly set, yet they are small, delicate and distinct, and the white ornaments impart a liveliness to the rich, sombre colouring of the pensee. The bonnets for the promenade are of plain black velvet, or of black satin, lined and trimmed with velvet, and these latter are expected to prevail much this winter, either in figured or plain satin; on the right side of the velvet bonnets, which are generally trimmed with black satin ribbon, is a bow, with the ends finished by feather-fringe net, with light fringe depending from the net, of extreme fineness, and of a marabout texture.
A very elegant dress for demi-parure, or afternoon home costume, is of Lyonese crape, of French grey, with a broad flounce at the border, festooned, and pointed and bound with black satin; the body made tight to the shape, and confined round the waist by a pointed cestus, bound with black satin; the dress is made rather more than partially low, with a Paladin collar round the tucker part, pointed in front, and bound in a similar manner to the other ornaments. The sleeves are of a very moderate width, and have mancherons diversified with black satin. Another home dress is of gros de Naples, the colour terre d’Egypte; this dress is made in the skirt en tunique, formed by layers of emerald-green plush silk, two rows of which surround the border, and face the sides; the body is made plain, and a broad collar-cape surrounds the throat, which is fastened close down like the facings. The sleeves are a l’Amadis, with the gauntlet-cuff formed of two rows of silk plush, the latter row coming nearly as high as the bend of the arm. This dress fastens down the front en pelisse, and is faced down, over where it is fastened, in pluche de soie.
Though there are as yet no balls of any eclat in London, it is expected that white crape dresses, beautifully embroidered or painted, in various colours, will be much in favour for that style of costume; the same light kind of dresses are also likely to be in favour for young persons at evening parties. Rich fringes prevail much in ornamenting dresses of satin or gros de Naples, and have a beautiful effect: in the make of the gowns, and in the form of their sleeves, there has been but little alteration this month, nor can we expect it till the fashionable winter is finally set in; the shoulders, certainly, are not exposed so much us they have been for the last two months, and when a dress is low, it is, while accordant with the rules of full dress, perfectly decorous. The new head-dresses boast more variety; in particular, we mention an opera-hat of the most becoming and elegant shape, formed of black velvet and black satin ribbon; scarlet and flame-coloured plumage, in feather-fringe, are tastefully mingled and disposed over the crown and brim; while a slight ornament, composed of the same, archly bends under the brim, and ties the hair; another head-dress for the same elegant spectacle, is a black velvet beret, with a row of very large white beads across the front part, which encircles the head, and round the crown are white satin puffs, and white marabouts. For the dinner party, the beret cap is reckoned very elegant; the crown, or caul, is of black velvet. The front is in Vandycke tiers of tulle, edged with blond, and white satin rouleaux, with points of pink satin, placed alternately. A beret for the evening dress party is peculiarly elegant; it is of black tulle, entwined by gold coloured satin rouleaux, which also form an open caul in treillage work, from whence depends a bow of gold-coloured satin ribbon, with long streamers; a beautiful plumage of gold colour droops and plays, in several feathers, over this very tasteful head-dress.
The novelties in out-door costume are also very attrac- tive; the most admired is a pelisse-cloak of gros de Naples; the colour, a beautiful tint, between the peach-blossom and the tourterelle. A mantelet-cape of black velvet, falls as low as the elbow, and is trimmed round with a rich, broad, cordon fringe. Over this is a falling collar, trimmed, also, with the same, while a pointed, standing-up collar of black velvet surmounts it at the throat. The great comfort, as well as the additional beauty to this cloak, is the Venetian sleeves, which are left open, and then fasten again down the arm, by gold buttons, exquisitely wrought, and in the shape of hearts; the seams of the sleeves are finished by a narrow rouleau of black velvet, and they terminate at the wrists by a black velvet cuff.
Another elegant envelope is a pelisse of gros de Naples, the colour Nile-water green; it is trimmed with sable fur-fringe, en serpentine, down each side of the skirt, in front, and over a moderately broad hem at the border: in the interstices formed by the serpentine wave, are branches of round foliage, formed of the fur-fringe, each leaf surrounded by a narrow rouleau of green silk, the colour of the pelisse. The corsage turns back, with lappels of green satin, discovering an elegant habit-shirt, or chemisette. The sleeves are a l’Amadis, finished by a gauntlet-cuff, with a very full frill-trimming, the same material as the pelisse, at the opening where the cuff buttons.
The colours most in favour are pensee, lavender-grey, peach-blossom, terre d’Egypte, emerald-green, gold-colour, pink, flame-colour, and bright geranium.
NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.
There are hats of figured silks in very large patterns, that are named Juliette. These hats are generally trimmed with blond and flowers.
Damask satin is a very brilliant looking silk; a hat has appeared of this satin of Jaune-vapeur, the trimming of which consisted in large puffs of plain black velvet, with notched ends. These ends were lined with satin and ornamented with fringe, with an open head of net-work.
The artificial florists make, with velvet, flowers resembling half-opening roses. These flowers are generally placed on white satin hats. Many hats of satin are ornamented with a very large bow, formed of a broad bias of satin. The two ends of this bow are trimmed with feather fringe. The greatest part of deshabille hats are of satin plush, or velvet, and have only a simple ribbon round the crown, which crosses and ties under the chin. Young persons wear hats of plush, very broad white stripes, on rose-colour, or Jaune-vapeur on white. These tie simply down by a white satin ribbon, which crosses the crown. The black velvet bonnets have almost all a broad black blond at the edge of the brim. Many hats of lilac, or of celestial-blue satin, have, on the brim, a half handkerchief of black satin, trimmed round with a ruche; the wide part is formed in puffings round the crown; and the corner is brought down to the edge of the brim. The hats are lined with black velvet, and the brim edged by a ruche; they have also four or five bows of gauze ribbon, with satin stripes. Some hats are of white satin, with four white aigrette feathers, tipt with Jaune-vapeur, with a demi-veil of blond at the edge of the brim.
The fashion-mongers give the name of apprets to these bands or bows with long puffs, which are always placed obliquely on hats; the same also extends to the end of the bows, to the fringes, or barbs of feathers.
The most fashionable of all colours is that of the orange- coloured breast of the Toucan, a bird from Brazil; this colour is particularly admired for bonnets, and looks well when trimmed with ribbon of cherry-coloured gauze.
Hats of Pensee coloured velvet are ornamented with a band of the same, as broad as the crown is high. The two ends of the band are trimmed with fringe, which is very broad. In front is placed two butterflies’ wings, formed of white blond.
Several hats, whether of velvet, or of satin and velvet, have, at the two ends of the bows, which form thetrim- ming, a fringe, with a handsomely wrought head. Fringes are made from the barbes of the Ostrich, as well as from silk. A hat-bonnet of plain black velvet, is ornamented with a long plume of the bird-of-paradise, and is reckoned the most elegant head-covering for the public promenade. For the morning-walk, the most appropriate hat is of velvet, in the English form.* {*About five years ago, a very handsome female friend of one of our Editors, went to Paris, where she acquired the name of La belle Anglaise, and every body imitated the small gypsy hat she wore; but such is not now in favour with the English ladies, nor has it been seen in England for some years. T.}
The pelerine-cape is trimmed with a fringe the colour of the cloak, mixed with black, and sometimes the fringe is all black. The collar is of plain velvet, and always of the same colour as the cloak. Wadded pelisses have very long sleeves, with narrow wristbands, and the plaits on the shoulder are fixed down by two or three rows of narrow braiding, placed at equal distances. Under these kind of sleeves, the stiffening is again introduced to puff them out.
Ladies coming out of the Theatre Italien, have been remarked with satin cloaks, lined with plush: they have very large capes, which, according to the present mode, descend below the elbow. On some cloaks are large open sleeves, which hang down on each side, and which are wrapped over the arms at the promenade.
A great number of pelisses have appeared, of changeable gros de Naples; they have two pelerine-capes, and a square falling collar, all surrounded by fringe. The front of the pelisse is ornamented with satin crescents, fastened in the middle by three buttons, which serve to confine the pelisse.
There are some pelisses of gros de Naples, having the two fronts of the skirts trimmed with a broad facing, edged with fringe; the corsage is also faced in the same manner; the sleeves are enormous at the upper part, but very narrow at the lower.
Boas, pelerines, and muffs, are the present order of the day.
A name is always of some importance, therefore we must not omit that given to a new material for cloaks; this is the mectaline, inspired by seeing the costume of the heroic followers of William Tell. It is of a very beautiful and appropriate texture.
A fashionable lady has again been seen at the Tuilleries, wearing pantaloons. These last were rather full; they were of dimity, and descended as low as the heel of the half-boot; they were cut away over the instep, and were fastened under the foot by a strap on each side, with a gold button. It must not be imagined that a riding-habit was worn with them. The lady who had on these pantaloons was habited in a silk dress.
Cloaks are now so much in favour, that a lady of fashion has sometimes four or five in her wardrobe. It is to satisfy such diversity of taste, that has brought into vogue those charming envelopes of merino, and pearl-grey Cachemire, embroidered in shaded green silk. Satin cloaks, which are destined for the morning walk, have large capes of velvet, falling below the elbow, and surrounded by fringe.
OUT-DOOR-COSTUME. – Down the front of pelisses of gros d’hiver, or of Turkish satin, are seen ornaments of satin, which serve as fastenings. On some wadded pelisses, pelerines, trimmed with fringe, are added.
From two o’ clock till four, the crowds at the Tuilleries have been lately immense. There were seen several pelerines of velvet on dresses made of changeable silk. One lady wore a pair of pantaloons, a la Mameluke, the fulness drawn in under an embroidered band round the ancle, edged with narrow tulle. This trimming fell over half-boots of Turkish satin.
Some spencers have appeared in the promenades, a few days since; some were of black velvet over a silk petticoat. Others were of blue or green gros de la Chine, with a white petticoat. One of these had, across the bust, a drapery a la Sevigne.
The pelerines of the new cloaks, whether of kerseymere, or double merino, descend lower than the elbow, and are trimmed with fringe, having an open work head of net. If the cloak is figured, the fringe corresponds in colours with those of the pattern and the ground.
A certain fashionable Duchess has been seen with a pelisse of satin, the colour, Jaune-vapeur, lined with white silk plush; the skirt was not closed down in front, but discovered a pretty muslin petticoat, with bouquets of flowers embroidered over the broad hem. The pelisse was trimmed round with a narrow rouleau of satin; but a double cape was surrounded by tassel-fringe.
Boa tippets arc worn in every style of dress; and the fiancees tied round the throat are of velvet of two different colours; some are one part velvet, the other satin, and are trimmed with narrow blond.
Pelisses of gros de la Chine are trimmed with tufted fringe; they are of changeable colours.
The newest cloaks for ladies are of double Merino, and are generally blue or red. Sometimes they are of nut-brown or lilac, figured with black, generally in Etruscan designs leaving rather a large space between. At the border of the cloak, and that of the pelerine there is, on these spaces, a small palm or a flower.
DRESSES. – Dresses of Alepine or of Chaly, with figures painted on them, are all made with stomachers. They have only a broad hem round the border, at the head of which is placed some fancy ornament.
To preserve a medium between those too tight sleeves, named a l’Amadis, and those very wide ones called a l’Imbecille, the dress-makers have now introduced three or four narrow wristbands, which they place as high as to the middle of the arm, and which fasten down the folds like those which are en berets. In order that these folds may keep in shape, the material of which the dress is made is lined with stiffened gauze; the sleeve then falls in all its amplitude only from the lower part of the elbow, and gives ease to the figure. Ruffles are very general; the most in favour are of fine lawn, edged with Valenciennes of equal fineness.
On crape dresses, feather fringe forms a graceful ornament; some have been remarked of white feathers, tipt with jaune-vapeur, which placed above the hem of crepe-vapeur, formed a charming novelty.
The fringes which are expected to be worn on winter dresses will be so rich and varied in their ornaments that they will be regarded as a new fashion. On dresses of crape or painted gauze, fringes will be placed, of gold, and of silver, with rich heads in bullion. A new kind of sleeve on a dress of white satin, has been remarked; it was short and very full; the fulness divided by a band, so that it seemed to form two beret-sleeves, one above the other; the lower part approached very near to the elbows.
One or two rows of narrow beading, set close together, without any space between, the same as the gros de Naples or sarcenet, and of the same colour, on which they are placed, mark the height of the knee for dress aprons. The colour of them is generally nut-brown, verd-antique, or slate colour: these aprons are worn by young females before the dinner hour.
A new way of trimming dresses consists in a row of triangles, as wide as about three inches; the points are placed upwards. Another kind of trimming in front of a dress, from the sash to the feet, is composed of small pattes; these are fastened one to the other by rosettes of satin or buttons of gold.
Changeable silks increase daily in favour; and satins are often figured in very small spots.
Some ladies wear, round the tucker part of their dresses, a kind of collar-cape ; this is of tulle over a coloured dress; it has four points, and is very narrow in the centre. On each shoulder are two long points. Besides the fringe which heads the broad hems as high as the knee, there is also a fringe round the epaulettes.
The fashionable sleeves for this winter form an interesting and important subject: what have appeared are very graceful; they are half a la Mameluke, and half a l’Amadis: but they are better suited to robes for dress parties than to the dishabille. With a low dress many young females wear a fiancee of black velvet; the two ends of which are drawn through a runner of small diamonds. Morning dresses are of French Cachemire lined with plush; but the most general are of Greek Chaly, with coloured patterns on a light ground.
Dresses made with stomachers, have almost all of them drapery in plaits across the breast, at the upper part of which, and at the base of the waist, they are very much spread out. For morning dresses they have a fringe at the head of the broad hem round the border. There are no ornaments now at the top of the long sleeves; they are merely placed on the corsage which is destined to receive them. At the termination of short sleeves, whether of velvet, satin, or other materials for full dress, are ruffles a la Sevigne: they are of blond, very long at the elbow, and are caught up in front of the arm by a satin bow. The boddice of all gowns are expected to be very long this winter. All the boddice, which are of thick materials, will be spread out very wide in front. There are some beautiful ball-dresses, ornamented with embroidery in coloured silks mingled with silver. White crape is the newest material for this purpose, worked in white silk.
HEAD-DRESSES. – Young females are desirous of adopting the Chinese head-dress in preference to any other; those who are older, will also venture to wear their hair in separate bandeaux on the forehead, but those who wish to preserve their youthful appearance wear those two tufts of curls which are becoming to every face. The hair is often ornamented with bows of ribbon, flowers, feathers, or chains of gold, and strings of pearls. Plats of hair are much in favour; there are sometimes five, seven, and even nine of them; they are large, but almost transparent.
Berets of blond, with the crown in treillage work, formed of satin, are trimmed with Japanese roses, or with a wreath composed of various kinds of small flowers.
Dress hats are of white satin, with blue ribbon, and three blue feathers. Mademoiselle SONTAG has appeared in public in one of these tasteful hats; it was placed very much over the left side, over a silver net. A row of diamonds issuing from the top of the forehead, and which was fixed to one of the ribbons, served to fasten a feather; the other feathers were placed over the brim, and the end of one of them seemed hooked under it.
Nothing can be more charming than the small blond caps now worn in half-dress by ladies eminent for the elegance of their taste. They are of rose-colour or of blue tulle, with trimmings of the same, to the edges of which is sewn Alencon point lace, or that of English manufacture. There are also caps of black tulle, ornamented with white.
Dress hats for the theatre are of pale pink, with white feathers, and a branch of white Dahlias. The brim is ornamented underneath, with blond, in various ways.
The hair is arranged in a bandeau, which comes very low over the temples. A broad braid of hair, platted, forms a diadem on the summit of the head, above which is a comb with a high gallery.
What is most remarkable in the new blond caps, is the caul, on which is placed, at equal distances, rouleaux of satin; when the caul is drawn in, these rouleaux resemble the different marks of a cockle-shell. Another peculiarity is the bow of ribbon, which, instead of being placed over the trimming, is sometimes under it; or, it may rather be said, that the trimming is turned up, and that the bow supports it.
For the theatre and the evening party, small caps of blond, which discover all the plats and puffs of hair behind, are much in vogue ; these caps ought to be placed on by a tasteful hair-dresser. The greater part have long lappets, which float over the shoulders.
An oval beret, of black velvet, has been remarked on the head of a celebrated singer: it was hollowed out on the right side, and adorned with two large roses, placed at each extremity of the right and left side of the brim. A bow of rose-coloured gauze ribbon, with satin stripes, fastened each rose: that on the left side was terminated by two ends, which hung down lower than the sash.
Two ladies have been seen with their hair elegantly dressed, on which was placed in front an auriole, formed of five or six ostrich feathers.
At the Theatre Italien some velvet turbans have appeared, the plaits of which were spread out in front, so as to give them the form of a very graceful beret. A golden serpent wound its folds in various ways among the plaits, and then crossed as a bandeau over the forehead.
Some milliners have invented some small blond caps, named Egyptian caps, and which are very becoming to a French countenance.
JEWELLERY. – Coral is again in high favour; there are many ear-rings of that material in cameo. Some jewellers have made long chains of it, at the end of which is suspended a cross, formed of five coral cameos. The cameos are placed at equal distances, in order to hold together the double rows of chains which form a kind of sautoir.
The rings are of an enormous size. On the greater part of these finger ornaments, are traced hieroglyphics, in gold.
Collars and bracelets of black velvet, buckled or brooched, with splendid gold ornaments, are quite the rage.
Most of the jewellery is very weighty, yet fillagree is much made use of: this has appeared in the ear-rings, and on the sash of a bride, which sash was fastened with a fillagree buckle.
MISCELLANEOUS. – Several fashionable ladies fasten to one of the corners of their pocket-handkerchief, a gold seal, on which is engraven their cypher. This mode dates its origin from the drama of Henry III.
Arm-chairs and elastic sofas, though dearer than those of ordinary kind, have the advantage of never being out of shape.
The oblong carpet at the foot of the bed, now reckoned the most elegant, is the skin of a tiger or of a leopard, not dressed, that is to say, with the head and paws.
Young females, who occupy themselves in painting, make use of a new kind of aqua-tinta, named, on account of its colouring, Oriental painting. Some large butterflies have been seen, some dahlias, and other rare flowers, painted in this manner. The white ground is on Bristol drawing-paper.
The perfumers sell the foot of a levret, set in silver or gold; this is made use of by the Parisian ladies to put on rouge with.* {Known universally in England, near ninety years ago. E.}
Ladies who wish to have their feet well dressed, wear very fine stockings of open work; but, least they should suffer from cold, they have, underneath, very long stockings of flesh-colour, which serve as drawers, and are tied to the waist, like those of children.
From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons
Back to November 1829