Newest London and Parisian Fashions for February 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c . AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others ; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

Plate the First

A dress of canary-yellow, gros de Naples, with a broad, full border of gauze of the same colour, bouillone; this is headed by a narrow rouleau, from whence descends embossed foliage, in satin, of single detached leaves ; these are surmounted by branches of foliage of yellow satin, which with twisted stalks, ascend, in a spiral, but oblique direction across the skirt. The body is made quite plain and fitting tight to the shape; very low off the shoulders, and the bust surrounded by a double falling tucker of blond, of a rich and splendid pattern, two points of which ornament the short, full sleeves on the outside of the arm, each fastened down by two small rosettes of white satin. The waist is incircled by a cordelier’s belt, in yellow. The hair is parted on the forehead, and arranged on each side, in a profusion of ringlets, longer on one side than on the other; where the hair is parted on the forehead, a la Madonna, is a bandeau, formed of one row of pearls. The head-dress is completed by a turban of ponceau crepe, ornamented round the back part of the crown, with gold and sprigs of heath on the summit, in front.
N.B. A similar dress, in white satin, of which we have given a back view, is represented, with the turban of etherial-blue.


A pelisse of blue satin, or of gros de Naples; the skirt surrounded by a border of two rows of sable forming a rich border, each row surmounted by beautiful embroidery on white satin, the colours employed on which are chaste and delicate, and, by no means too vivid or rendering the dress unfit for the promenade, for which, by its make and warmth, it is well adapted; for it is wadded, and fastens up quite close to the throat; though the corsage is en gerbe it is admirably fitted to set off the beauty of the shape, by its adherence to the form ; it buttons down the front of the waist to the belt, which is narrow, and, formed of two sprig-rouleaux; these elastic belts are easy, and yet always tight enough. The sleeves are en gigot, and the cuffs and collar are of the same fur which constitutes the border. The bonnet is of rather a close, but quite novel form, and is of blue silk, with stripes two shades darker than the ground; it is trimmed with large bows of ribbon to correspond.


A dress of crape over white satin, with two deep flounces of beautiful blond; over the upper one is a superb pattern of embroidery worked on the dress in white floize silk. The corsage is of white satin, with a Sevigne drapery across the bust, of crape, The centre of this is brought together by a row of elegant fancy trimming, which descends down the front of the waist to the sash, which consists simply of white ribbon. The sleeves are long, transparent, and a la Marie; confined only above the elbow, by a band of figured satin ribbon; cleft mancherons, edged with blond, fall over the shoulders, and a narrow tucker of blond surrounds the bust; jointed bracelets, of Turquoise-stone, and Cameos incircle the wrists; round which are besides, elegant cuffs of white satin, with point, of blond. The head-dress consists of a dress hat of white satin, lined with Minerva-blue velvet, crowned with a profusion of blue and white marabout plumage, strings of white ribbon, chequered with Minerva-blue float loose.


The dress here represented is that of an Archon’s daughter, and is a charming combination of fancy and splendour. Over a petticoat of Pomona green silk, bordered with three bands of scarlet, is a close bodied short dress of scarlet, richly embroidered with gold. The corsage is of green silk, with points falling over the breast, edged by gold lace, and a white silk apron, worked in that fine embroidery of variously coloured flowers, in which the modern as well as the ancient Greeks are known to excel, finishes the dress. The sleeves, which are of scarlet, superbly embroidered with gold, square, long, and fit close to the arms; but the cuff at the wrist is extremely loose, and is ornamented on the outside of the hand, from the wrist, with the small gold coin of the country. The hair is parted on the forehead, and is formed on each side, below the ears, in a cluster of bushy curls, like that of the men; the long, hinder tresses, are brought forward in two plats on each side, and descend as low as the knees. A lofty cap, of a pyramidical form, of scarlet velvet, ornaments the head; over this is a band of blue and white, which gently presses down the crown or caul, across, with a rosette of white and scarlet on the right side; a band of blue and silver encircles the cap next the hair. The stockings are of blue silk, and the seam, which is in front of the leg, is of gold; the slippers are of the same colour, with gold rosettes.


A dress of white crepe Aerophone, over white satin, bordered simply with a broad hem; black velvet corsage, pointed a la Marie Stuart, with a Sevigne drapery across the bust, and points at each shoulder, which form mancherons over long white sleeves, a la Marie, of crepe Aerophone; the fullness of these sleeves is confined in the centre of the thicker part of the arm, by armlets of gold and emeralds, and at the wrists by bracelets to correspond. A friar’s belt of gold, with three superb thistle tassels, encircles the waist, the ends falling nearly as low as the feet. The coiffeure consists of a hat of black velvet, placed very much on one side, and under the brim, on the elevated part, is an ornament of gold chain cordon, and a pink feather, which waves in a spiral direction towards the crown, from whence, playing elegantly over the front, are four pink feathers. The ear-pendants are of wrought gold, very large and long, en Girandoles, and the necklace is composed of two rows of massive chains of gold. In the centre of the Sevigne drapery, across the bust, is a brooch of emeralds or turquoise-stone, set in gold, a l’Antique.


A dress of satin, the colour of the marsh-mallow blossom; a broad hem, Vandyked at the head, ornaments the border; between each point is a round leaf, edged with a narrow rouleau; this foliage is embossed, and has a very pleasing effect. The corsage is concealed by a loug, pelerine tippet, of the same material as the dress, edged round by a full ruche of white blond, and the two ends finished by a handsome rosette of marsh-mallow blossom satin; these ends are drawn through a belt of the same colour and material as the dress, buckled in front by a silver buckle; two niches of narrow blond surround the throat, divided by a ruff, disposed en serpentine; the sleeves are en jigot. A beret of black velvet forms the head dress, ornamented with bouquets of dark green heath, the blossoms just opening. Strings of gauze ribbon, beautifully painted, but not in vivid colours, float loose. Notwithstanding the beauty and value of the materials, it will naturally occur to our readers, from the make of this costume, that it is calculated chiefly for the friendly or family dinner party, or receiving company at home, and not for the dinner of ceremony.


FIG. 1. A head dress in hair, en Corbeille, arranged in full curls on each side of the face, and parted from the plaits composing the Corbeille on the summit of the head, by two strings of pearls, one of the strings slightly crossing the upper part of the forehead. Above the ornament of hair on the summit is a full group of flowers, consisting of full blown Provence roses, and tuberoses, with green foliage.
FIG. 2. Back view of a dress hat of velvet, the colour, Parma violet, fastened up behind and in front with gold chain cordon, and crowned with superb white plumage.
FIG. 3. A side view of a head dress in hair, a la Corbeille, with a slighter portion of flowers, consisting of damask-roses, and trefoil, or shamrock.

Plate the Third


A dress of holly-leaf-green, or any other lively winter colour, of satin, with abroad hem round the border, headed by four narrow tucks falling over each other, from whence depend, and lie on the hem, in a waving direction, a row of embossed jagged leaves. A canezou spencer of velvet, the same colour as the dress, forms the corsage, and mancherons of the same, consisting of jagged foliage, ornament the top of the sleeves, which are a la Marie, and the fullness very slightly confined round the thicker part of the arm these sleeves are of the same material as the dress, and are fastened at the wrist by a very broad gold bracelet, clasped by a cameo. A velvet band encircles the waist, fastened in front with a square gold buckle. A full ruff of blond is worn round the throat. The hat is of black velvet, with several short black feathers, and ornamented under the brim, on each side, by pink satin ribbons, cut to represent feathers. Strings of pink ribbon, edged with black hair-stripes, float loose. Half-boots of tea- green prunella, and woodstock gloves, complete the dress.


A dress of white Cachemire, bordered by a very broad hem, over which is a Greek pattern embroidered in colours. The sleeves en Chemisettes, full, and confined round the wrist by a broad bracelet in mosaic work. Over this dress is worn a long cloak of Indian manufacture, of the Cachemire kind, with a broad and most splendid border, in various colours, of an Oriental pattern. The ground of this superb cloak is of cerulean-blue, or other striking colour, and is lined throughout with white satin. The collar, which ties round the throat, is composed of marten-skin, and the cape is in the form of the Russian mantelet, depending rather lower than the elbows. The collar ties at the throat with a rich cordon, the same shade as the cloak : the ends fall as low as the summit of the broad hem at the border of the dress, with very superb tassels. The bonnet is of satin, the same colour as the cloak, elegantly ornamented with bows of ribbon of the same tint, mixed with Parma-violet: a large yellow Gueldre-rose is placed in front of the bonnet.


A dress of celestial-blue, watered gros de Naples; the corsage en Circassienne, with cleft mancherons over long white crape sleeves, en jigot. A beret of celestial-blue spotted gauze, with two white esprits, forms the head-dress. These esprits are placed under the brim; the beret is also ornamented with bows of blue and silver lama ribbons. The ear-pendants are of wrought gold. A full bouquet is carried in the hands.


FIG. 1. Back view of a Carriage Dress. A dress of Parma- violet-coloured satin, with a velvet canezou spencer, ornamented in the same manner as that on the full length figure in this plate. The hat of black velvet, and its plumage, &c, are also similar to that figure.
FIG. 2. A back-view of a half-length, in a similar dress – The gown of the back figure is in canary-yellow gros de Naples, with a beret of ponceau-gauze, with black satin stripes, ornamented with white esprits, and the crown en treillage.

Plate the Fourth

A pelisse of black velvet, bordered a la Witzchoura, with Chinchilla, finished at the back and bust with fichu-robings, and surmounted at the throat by a round tippet of Chinchilla, placed under a French ruff of clear, stiffened, book muslin, edged with Vandyck lace. Black velvet bonnet, with elegant plumage and walking demi-brodequins, of black kid, lined with fur. Some ladies prefer this costume of violet-coloured velvet, trimmed with marten-skin, and a round, long tippet of the same fur.


A dress of pink crape, trimmed at the border with puffings of pink satin ribbon, edged with narrow black stripes, and set on in bias; the body made tight to the shape with a sash; the ends tying behind, very short, with a small bow. The sleeves short, and very full, and trimmed in stripes of bias puffings, to answer the ornaments on the border of the dress. Round the bust is a double falling tucker of blond. The hair is arranged in very full clusters of curls on each side of the face; entirely parted on the forehead, and on the right side, the curls are crossed over by a half wreath of small, full-blown roses, both red and white, and a slight portion of green foliage. The Apollo knot, consisting of two puffs of hair, crossed obliquely by a large platted braid, is much elevated, and crowned by light curls, and red and white flowers, of the evening primrose kind. The ear-pendants are of wrought gold ; the shoes of white satin, tied en sandales.
A bouquet of red and white roses, is carried in the left
N. B. Back view of a sitting figure, in a similar dress, formed of white crape, with a white satin corsage; the ornaments and sash of etherial blue, as are the flowers on the hair.


FIG. I. – Evening Party Head-Dress. – The hair in light curls on each side of the face, parted on the forehead by a Madona braid, and two bandeaux of pearls; in the centre of each a turquoise, set out in small pearls. The Apollo-knot, in the usual form, elevated, and crossed obliquely with one plat. On each side of the hair is a full-blown, single, red rose, and a blue China-Astre; the flowers surmounting the Apollo-knot are of the same kind. The ear-pendants are in the form of a cross, and are of pearls or diamonds.
FIG. 2. – Blond Cap for demi-parure. – A cap, in the toque form, composed of rich broad blond, separated by rouleaux of celestial-blue satin; broad strings of which ribbon float
FIG. 3. – Blond Cap. – Composed of quillings of blond, with a broad border, turned back from the front, and puffs of pink satin ribbon next the hair. The blond is ornamented with pink satin narrow rouleaux. This coiffeure is for home costume.
FIG. 4. – Hat for Promenade Costume. – A hat of black velvet, ornamented with three black ostrich feathers. Under the brim are bows of the palest shade of red lilac. The hat fastens under the chin by a mentonniere of blond.
FIG. 5. – Side View of an Evening Coiffeure. – The hair arranged a la Grecque, with the antique fillets, formed of small plaits of hair, parts of which are wound round the Apollo-knot; which is crowned by a large blue China-Astre. Three leaves of the pineapple foliage ornament the hair in front of the forehead ; and on the left side, near them, is a small blue China- Astre; the curls next the face are by no means exuberant, and are in the Egyptian-ringlet style. The ear-rings are of pearls.


The question of, “Why are our Magazins de Modes so filled with all that taste and luxury can invent, does no body buy ?” cannot now be asked, since a succession of the most attractive and elegant novelties appear, almost daily ; and before the close of this mouth, they will, we believe, scarcely be enabled to keep pace with the demands of the illustrious purchasers, whom we trust them to be, adding splendour to the first metropolis in the world, by their presence; for these many novel articles are now in preparation, though not yet completed.
There is, however, at present; nor can it be denied whatsoever may be set forth in the ephemeral journals of Fashion, a stagnation in the progressive march of the rainbow Diety, which, during the gelid month of January, in which every lively faculty of mind and spirit seem, in a manner frozen, is generally known to halt, and become stationery till about the middle, or latter end of the more cheering month of February ; we, therefore, have but few novelties to record, and those are chiefly confined to the fancy dresses of some late grand galas in the country; two of which we offer the following description to our readers, as we found them peculiarly striking and dignified.
Over a white satin dress, with a flounce at the border of the same, doubled in bias, and set on in large, full plaits, was worn a superb black velvet robe, a l’Artemise; this was splendidly trimmed all round, with a rich and costly fringe formed of very small jet beads; the white satin dress, from the robe being left open in front, formed a fine contrast to the monotony of the black; and the festoons of jet fringe, which seemed to fasten it in front, at separate distances, produced a charming effect over the white satin; the bust, of the robe was ornamented all round the tucker part with the same fringe. The short sleeves were of white satin; over these were long ones transparent, and of white Japanese gauze: at the back of the sleeves hung the ancient drapery of the robes of Crete, somewhat like those now worn in Poland, adding much grace to the robe; and these were of black velvet, fringed with jet: the points at the wrists of the white sleeves were fluted, and similar to the antique British points. This truly classical dress of that self-devoted pattern of conjugal affection, Queen Artemesia, was finished by the regal coronet of former ages, formed of white satin, and the points edged round with pearls, from whence depended behind, as low as the feet, the distinguishing veil of royalty, worn at that period.
Another dress for one of these brilliant occasions, is that of a youthful grand Sultaness ; it consists of a pair of white satin Turkish trowsers, over which is worn a dress of the finest oriental muslin, spotted with silver, and embroidered with the same round the border, in a very elegant pattern of Indian flowers. A short, white satin tunic is put on over this dress, fringed round and embroidered with embossed figures in silver, of the shape of pear-peals, formed into flowers. The back of the waist consists of bracers of white satin, laid in plaits, and fringed with silver cockscomb-edging. On the shoulders are ornaments of fine oriental pearls ; and in front of the bust is a Turkish cresent of the same valuable materials. A belt of white satin and silver incircles the waist. The head-dress with this interesting costume is a Turkish turban of French white satin and gauze, with a pearl cresent in front: a kind of diadem ornament, embellished with jewels of various kinds, on white satin, in eastern figures, is placed near the crown ; the Turkish folds next the hair are of the Japanese-gauze ; of which is the Sultana-viel, that depends behind; and which is ornamented to correspond with the dress.
The usual articles for female costume remain with but little alteration since our last accounts; whatever there is of novelty will be found in our engravings. There is, however, among the new head-dresses, a very magnificent turban for the evening party, of gaze brillantee! the tissu of which is in real gold. In the front is a fluted ornament of bright amber-couloured crepe Aerophane, en eventail. On the right side is a bow, with short ends fringed with gold, of the same material as the turban. The caps have experienced but little change since last month; except that we find those of black blond rather more in favour than those which are white; these are adorned with pink satin ribbon, with roses and their buds; and are in the Paon style. Berets still continue in favour.
Few bonnets are now seen in preference to black velvet; we have, however, given a fac-simile in our first plate of one of an entire new shape, of striped silk; no head-covering can be more appropriate to the promenade, as it ties closely down, yet is rendered infinitely becoming by being made short at the ears; it is on the walking figure, in a blue pelisse. In carriages a few velvet hats have been seen, and the black velvet ones are often ornamented with aigrettes, or esprit feathers.
In carriages, the pelisses are of velvet, of different colours, and are often trimmed with fur, with a long pelerine tippet of the same material. The out-door envelopes for walking, continue the same as last month, with scarce any alteration worth remarking.
The colours most in favour are marsh-mallow-blossom, azure-blue, pink, amber. The green of the young holly, scarlet, and lemon-colour.


HATS AND BONNETS. – There are hats of gros de Naples, embroidered with silk of two different colours; the wreath, which borders the upper part of the brim, is of the same shade as the lining, and that which is worked underneath, is the colour of the upper part of the brim.
Hats of blue velvet, ornamented feathers, half-blue, half sulphur-yellow, have appeared in the public walks, and have been much admired.

OUT-DOOR COSTUME. – With morning pelisses, are always worn gloves of some very light colour, embroidered in different shades: at the wrist they are surrounded by plush, the same colour as the embroidery.
Some boa tippets are fastened on one side of the sash by a gold serpent, which surrounds the boa like a ring, and is attached to the sash by means of a hook.
The cloaks which are of red, blue, or green, are made of a woollen stuff, the upper part of which resembles cut velvet, on cloth. This material is fabricated at la Savonerie, and is named manteaux duchesse, a cape cut square, falls lower than the elbow.
A pelisse of gros de Naples, the colour, sulphur-yellow, has been in high favour lately; it is ornamented all round by a border of small pinks and blue-bells, embroidered in silk.
In carriages, when paying morning visits, ladies wear a Turkish shawl, with gold flowers interwoven.

DRESSES. Embroidery on silk, still composes the ornaments on gowns for evening dress ; the most admired are of light materials, such as Palmyrene, poplin-gause, and lawn-gauze. Gros de Naples, merinos, and Cachemires, are also embroidered.
There is a charming invention, in which lightness, grace and splendour are united ; it is the trimming composed of ribbons on tulle or crape ; this species of garniture has a beautiful effect on ball-dresses, and very much resembles
silken* {*Some of our readers, perhaps, may recollect the ribbon-work embroidery of the year 1795. We shall be happy to see it revived: it only does for small flowers and foliage, but the variety of colours in the shaded narrow ribbon is admirable. It is expeditiously performed. – T.} embroidery: the mediocrity of its price, renders it facile to have it often renewed. Amongst the newest ball- dresses, one has been remarked of crepe-aerophane, the colour of the bird-of-paradise; it was surrounded by a broad hem; but three broad satin ribbons, from beneath the front of the sash, at about a hand’s breadth distance from each other, descend to the top of the hem, where they fasten three bouquets, composed of blue-bells, corn-poppies, and ears of wheat. The corsage is made in drapery, at the front and at the back; the short sleeves seem as if fastened on by a bouquet of blue bells and corn poppies attached to the shoulder. The same flowers compose a bouquet placed in the sash, on one side.
A very pretty deshabille is composed of a dress trimmed with two broad bias folds, above which are two cockleshells in satin, separated from the bias by a beaded tuck, or a narrow quilling of black blond. The corsage is made with a stomacher. The sleeves very full, with narrow wrist- bands. The sash very broad.
At balls, young persons belonging to the higher classes, are very simply attired. The dress is of crape with a broad hem as high as the knee ; the corsage a l’Edith, short sleeves, and a narrow lace appearing below them, belonging to the chemise.
Some elegant ladies of fashion have their ball-dresses of crape, the colour called eminence, (it is a violet, which by candle-light, appears that of the marshmallow blossom. These dresses are trimmed with a bias, surmounted by large plaits of satin: three rows of which plaiting descend from the sash, and unite themselves to this bias; where three bouquets of flowers, part imitating nature, the other part natural flowers, appear to fasten the rows of plaiting.
The border of marten-skin, which surrounds some black velvet dresses, is sometimes cut in festoons, at the upper part.
A dress of straw-coloured Organdy, on which is worked, in flat embroidery, a wreath of coquelicots and blue-bells, forms a very beautiful dress.
Among the newest articles for the ball-room, or evening party, are the following ; gros de Perse, Duphone, a transparent material, figured; Persian gauze, with Cachemire flowers ; and Smyrna gauze, both plain and figured.
The colorettes a la Medicis, had, as it is well known, a vertical direction, and did not conceal the neck; they were worn in the time of Henry IV. They are spoken of in a moral work, written in the age of Louis XIII., which calls the exposure of the bust the fashion of the “free and easy Marguerite.”* {*The repudiated first wife of Henry IV. daughter to Catherine Medicis. Margaret was alike renowned for her beauty as for the extreme laxity of her moral conduct.} “How can any one, this spirited writer adds, “be looked on, as a woman of honour, who continually obtrudes on one, the sight of her naked arms and bosom?
It was only towards the middle part of the reign of Louis XIV. this fashion changed: and during the regency, they made themselves amends for that restraint, nor were the ladies in the time of Louis XIV. at much expence for fichus.
The broad bias fold at the border of some ball dresses is afoot in breadth, and is surmounted by three tucks ; some- times these tucks are in satin of a different colour to the dress, and then the corsage and sleeves are in unison. The tucker part of the corsage is generally trimmed with two or three rows of quilled tulle, laid in very large plaits; some fanciful ladies have their ball dresses trimmed with watered ribbon, the same colour as the corsage, which is generally blue or pink; the ribbon is put on the skirt in net-work, and ascends as high as the knee; young women of fashion often wear a tulle dress over lemon-coloured satin. The tulle is embroidered with a row of pinks, and at the height of the knee is a row of bouquets.

HEAD-DRESSES. With a ball dress, described under our list of dresses, is worn a wreath of blue bells and corn poppies, across the forehead, and the same flowers lightly scattered round the head. The hair is gathered up to the summit in tresses, forming a kind of ball, from whence emerge masses of cork-screw ringlets.
Most of the dress hats are of plain velvet, either bird-of-paridise, eminence, or white. A broad gauze ribbon, with satin stripes, the same colour as the velvet, conceals the place where two coloured feathers are fastened in front. At the right side, this ribbon terminates in a large bow.
Besides butterflies, musquito, hawk-flies, and humming-birds, ladies often add strings of pearls to ornament their hair, and the pearls often entwine the small plats which compose the corbeille on the summit of the head. This fashion may be dated back to the reign of Henry IV.; several portraits of Gabrielle d’Estree’s represent her with a similar coiffeure.
The round crowns of tulle caps, called dress-caps, are puckered, and have on the summit a bow of gauze ribbon with satin stripes. Two folds trimmed with tulle surround the border of these caps. Under the upper fold which stand up, is a cordon formed of lilies of the valley, or of heath in blossom.
Arrows, corn in ear, and sprigs of pearls, are often seen, with a band of pearls round the waist ; and berets are ornamented also frequently with pearls. A plain velvet beret the colour, eminence, has been seen with two rows of pearls at the edge; a rosaee, in pearls, is worked on the flat crown; and three or four strings of pearls terminated by a tassel, fall over the shoulder.

JEWELLERY. In half dress, ladies wear, as an ornament, a small gold key, suspended to the girdle by a cordon formed of hair, with gold sliders. The large gold chains which are thrown over the neck, are sometimes fastened up by a rich Sevigne, or a brooch which fixes them at the centre of the bust.
Summer, itself, never produced so many butterflies as the female toilet presents this winter: butterflies in wrought gold, in differently coloured stones, in enamel, in diamond’s and even in black beads for mourning. These butterflies are placed on the hair, or the bust, and often on the shoulders for brooches.
One row of large pearls forms a favourite necklace worn with ball-dresses, and a ribbon of black velvet with a heart and cross a la Jeannette. Sometimes three or four rows of pearls incircle the throat; when there are five rows they are placed one stage below the other, the last row descending as low as the girdle.
Bandeaux of different coloured stones are placed very low across the forehead ; they are enriched with vaccilating gems like the new necklaces.

MISCELLANEOUS – L’Enodie is a perfume to be burnt in apartments, and which imparts the natural odour of several flowers. The pastiles are acidulated slightly, and this preparation has the double advantage of embalming and purifying the air.
L’Eusmophore is a charming article, of various forms, but all are made equally rich and elegant, and are worthy of decorating the most tasteful boudoir, or the most splendid drawing-room. They are used as supporters to thickly- grouped bouquets of flowers; and at the base, should be burnt the Enodie mentioned above.
There have appeared some new eye-glasses, which are set in mosaic. This setting represents a wreath of flowers.
Instead of making use of counters, at the game of ecarte, there are small tablets of ebony or ivory, on which are five little balls of polished steel, or gold, which mark, by means of a spring, whatever has been gained.
One of the prettiest card-racks lately invented, has, instead of the different days to receive the cards, so many butterflies, of various colours, which, placed on a ground of white or black, produce a charming effect.
At the desert following a grand dinner, four pyramids are indispensible: baskets, or plateaux, of different stages, with oranges, Madeira oranges, Maltese oranges, oranges from Nice, and those from Portugal. The baskets are of open work, and are platted, or of china to correspond with the service. The four sorts of oranges must be all separate from each other.
Boxes from Spa, a favourite present made at the commencement of the new year, are formed like a long glove, and are made to contain one, or several dozens of pairs, of gloves.
At the time when tea is taken, a servant opens the two folding doors, and pronounces, with a loud voice – “Tea is ready ! The company then pass into the eating- room, which is lighted by lamps placed against the wainscot, and by a lustre containing five lamps, depending from the ceiling: globes of glass soften the light of these lamps. On a mahogany table, without a cloth, are ranged plates and baskets filled with cakes and fruit. In the midst is a brown, varnished copper urn; cups and tea-pots of the different teas are set round the urn. It is only ladies who are seated round the table.
We quote, not as a fashion, but a caprice of a pretty woman, a pair of silk stockings of flesh colour, in which were woven coloured flowers.
While some of our ladies, devotees to fashion, place but- terflies of different coloured gems, or gold enamel, in their hair, others adorn their tresses with humming birds, and other of the small-winged race that have brilliant plumage; these birds, like the butterflies, are set on vibrating pins. Five or six form a head-dress.
The more rigorous the season, the more prodigal are the wealthy of their flowers, when they give a ball. Besides the boxes of shrubs, which ornament the stair-case and gallery, there are bouquets suspended to the pannels and to the lustres in the drawing-room. A rash hand having seized one of these bouquets, a few evenings ago, they were soon transferred to the side on which the ladies were seated.
There are now some fire-skreens of white Scotch fir, ornamented with drawings in acquatinta, so well executed, that they appear like the work of a first-rate artist.
The new smelling bottles are made like a powder flask ; they are of chased gold, or enamel; two small handles serve to uphold a chain united by a ring, and on this ring is a hook which fastens to the sash.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to March 1829

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