Newest London and Parisian Fashions for January, 1829

This publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3 Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c/. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they import an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

Plate the First


Though the nobility and the higher order of gentry in Russia dress in the French and English style, yet the wives and daughters of the most wealthy merchants, who hold a distinguished place of honour and respect in the Emperor’s dominions, retain their national costume, which is at once rich, beautiful, and peculiarly becoming to their cast of features. They have, also, of late, adopted the corsets worn in England and France, which have preserved their shapes, and proves the flaccidity so generally apparent in the Russian female, by after fourteen or fifteen, is not a deformity peculiar to the country, or entirely owing to the enervating and relaxing stove, over which artificial heat they indulge in their apartments, almost suffocating from their warmth, but that the shapes of the ladies in St. Petersburgh and Moscow, yield to none, when well taken care of.

The dress now presented to the notice of our fair readers is that of a merchant’s young wife of St. Petersburgh. Her dress is of a rich silk of pomegranate red, trimmed next o the feet by a border of some very valuable animal, from Siberia, the colour of the light sable of America. Over this is a layer of blue satin, embroidered with white and red: at some distance above is a zig-zag wave of yellow and green, and the border terminates over that by another layer of blue satin, embroidered similar to that which heads the fur. The body is made en Corset, lacing in front with blue silk cordon, and round the bust, and down each side of the lacing, are set, very close together, pearls of immense value. A chemisette tucker, of fine cambric draws modestly over the bust; and a girdle like a military sash, encircles the waist, in the old Russian style, in Grecian looseness; this sash has a double row of very rich fringe of scarlet and yellow ornamenting the ends, which descend as low as the border of the skirt. Long white sleeves of very fine cambric or lawn, cover the arms to the wrists. The cap is of a curious form, of the San-Benito kind; but this is not adorned with flames or demons, like that which designates the unfortunate victim of superstition. This is of yellow satin; next the hair is a slight ornament of silver, and at the edge, on the summit, are rouleaux in wavings of scarlet satin; from each side depend lappets of white gauze, beautifully painted in divers colours. The ear pendants are long and large, of plain gold. Muscovy boots, lined and trimmed round with fur; the boots of cerulean-blue satin, laced with scarlet, complete this costume: the hair is arranged a la Madonna, and is besides encircled by a blue fillet, with a large pearl, or a gold ornament in the centre.

These dresses of the merchant’s wives, were formerly loaded with gold and jewels; from the simplicity of the above, we are inclined to think the national costume is on the decline, except among the peasantry: it forms, however, a very pleasing attire for the fancy ball.


A dress of white cambric, with a deep muslin flounce, richly embroidered, over which is worn a cloak of beautifully striped Cachemire; the stripes crosswise, of figured lilac, on a light willow-green ground; the cloak lined throughout with green levantine. A large cape, terminating in points, falls over the shoulders. The bonnet is of black velvet, lined with pink, ornamented by scollops of velvet bound with pink and black ribbon; large bows of the same ribbon ornament the crown.


A pelisse of pink gros de Naples, fastening down the front of the skirt with large rosettes of the same. The corsage is half a la Roxelane, and the sleeves en gigot, confined at the wrists by very broad gold bracelets, fastened by an antique head. A collerette-pelerine of fine lace is worn over this pelisse, with a sautoir of lemon coloured ribbon, with hair-stripes of black. The hat is of black velvet, with a Chinese-crown of lemon-coloured sarcenet, surmounted by white marabouts. Under the brim of the hat is a bow of lemon-coloured ribbon, on each side; from whence depend strings of the same coloured ribbon, richly spotted at the edges with black velvet.


FIG. 1. – Double Beret-toque of white satin, beautifully painted with various-coloured flowers. A bird of paradise placed in front, between the divisions of the Beret. On the left side, over the ears, a fan and ends of ribbon, painted to correspond with the toque.

FIG. 2. – Back view of the same head-dress, all white.

FIG. 3. – Back view of a carriage hat of white satin, trimmed with pink and white ribbon, and ornamented with pink and white marabout feathers.

Plate the Second


A dress of black Smyrna, with a broad border of satin, beautifully embroidered in various colours, of natural flowers. The corsage a l’Enfant, with a pointed zone, embroidered to correspond with the border on the skirt. Short sleeves of black Smyrna, under those which are long, of crepe Aerophane, a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by bracelets of gold, fastened with white agate, or rubies. The hair arranged in Madonna braids, with clusters of short ringlets falling over half of them; the head-dress completed by a beret of black velvet, placed very much on one side; under the brim on the right, where the beret is elevated, is a feather of bright jonquil; where the beret is brought low over the left side of the throat, is another feather placed under the brim, of vermillion colour; this plays gracefully over the neck. The crown of this head-dress, which is very low, is ornamented with a full plumage of green, vermillion, and yellow feathers.


A pelisse of etherial blue satin, fastened down the front by languette straps, bound round by narrow rouleaux. The body made plain, and the sleeves en jigot, with a gauntlet cuff, fastened on the outside of the arm with straps, answering those which fasten the pelisse down the skirt. The pelisse has no collar, but is surmounted at the throat by a ruff of net, bouillone; under which is tied a long round tippet of the fur of the marten; these tippets are called by the French, Boas. The hat is of black velvet, trimmed with white blond, and white satin ribbon. A bandeau of this ribbon reaches from right to left, under the brim, at the extremity of which on the former side is a large rose of white satin ribbon. In front of the blond which ornaments the crown, is one rosette of white ribbon.


FIG. 1. Back view, half length, of a Walking Dress. – A pelisse of lavender gros de Naples, with a ruff of net, a la Bouffon, and round, long tippet, of marten-skin. Hat of black velvet, trimmed with white blond, and white satin ribbon.

FIG. 2. Back view of an Evening Costume. – Dress of Canary-yellow crape, with sleeves a la Mameluke. Beret of blue satin, ornamented with white Ostrich feathers

FIG. 3. Front and side view of a blond dress-cap, mixed with white satin. A wreath in front of full-blown roses and blue-bells. Lappets descending from each side, of very broad blond, of a rich pattern.

Plate the Third [Note – colours do not match the descriptions below]


A pelisse of sage-leaf green gros de Naples, lined with celestial-blue sarcenet. One very broad hem surrounds the border, headed by a double range of points, falling over each other. The body en gerbe, and confined round the waist by a belt of gros de Naples, with a full Rosette on the left side, in front, and two short ends. A French collar, with a narrow ruff of lace; and under the collar a painted sautoir-cravat of white silk. Bonnet of pomegranate red, lined with velvet, the colour of the Parma-violet: this bonnet is of a novel form, and so evasee, that it appears as if turned up all round in front. The bows which ornament it are of pomegranate velvet, and silk of Parma-violet. Strings of pomegranate-coloured ribbon float loose. The sleeves of the pelisse are moderately full, with cleft mancherons.


A dress of tulle; with a full bouillone ornament of the same, next to the feet, headed by bows of white satin of one loop and one end, on a narrow rouleau, which goes all round the skirt, as it surmounts the bouillone. At a distance from this, above a bias fold, is a row of leaves, in white satin. The corsage is a la Sevigne, with a splendid girandole brooch in the centre of the drapery across the bust, of jewellery and gold; the principal gems of which are turquoise stones. This drapery is fastened down on each shoulder with turquoise brooches, on a smaller scale. The sleeves are short and very full. The hair is arranged in full curls on each side of the face, and short at the ears. An open coronet-toque of blue crepe lisse, in puffs entwined with narrow black velvet, constitutes the head-dress: on the summit, on the right side, is an antique ornament of turquoises and wrought gold, with small gems of different colours, representing flowers grouped together, forming an ornament in front of the toque, on that part which crosses the forehead. Ear-pendants of turquoises and necklace of the same jewellery, set in large separate rosettes of one row.

N.B. A sitting figure presents a back view of this costume in rose-colour, with the addition of a boa tippet of marten-skin.


FIG. 1. Head and Bust of an Evening Costume. – A dress of celestial-blue satin; the body quite plain, with sleeves a la Marie. A chemisette-tucker of gaze-lisse, edged with blond draws over the front of the bust, and a double falling tucker of broad blond falls over, and surrounds the other part of the corsage, which is made low. Dress cap of fine rich blond, of a pointed pattern; the border turned up on each temple, with flowers of various kinds lying on the hair. The flowers, which are dispersed with much taste and elegance about the crown, are chiefly white; and the floating strings are of white satin. The ear-rings and necklace are of jasper.

FIG. 2. Side view of a head-dress in hair a la Greque; full curls next the face, and above a rolled braid of hair entwined with pearls. The fusee or antique portion of hair at the back of the head, consists of several curls; but which have not the ancient purple fillets: plats of hair supply that deficiency: and on the summit of the fusee is a large, full blown Provence rose with buds, and a small portion of green foliage.

FIG. 3. Front view of a head-dress similar to figure 2, except that it is more divided on the forehead, and is without the rolled braid: the hinder tresses are also brought forwarder on the summit of the head.

Plate the Fourth


A white satin dress bordered with unspotted ermine; the corsage made low, with a narrow cape en paladin, surrounded by small pearls. The body fits exactly to the cape, and is encircled round the waist by a girdle, formed of rows of pearls, with long ends a la Cordonniere, terminated by tassels, and depending as low as the border. The sleeves are a la Madis, with the fullness confined above the elbow by bands of narrow satin ribbon; the other part of the sleeve fits tight to the arm, till it reaches the wrist, where is a deep cuff of fluted satin, the points standing upwards from the wrist, and edged with blond: next the hand are narrow bracelets of pearls. The hair is arranged in full curls on each side of the face, and is crowned by a coronet of pearls, with a long veil of blond depending from the back of the head, and descending nearly as low as the heels. The ear-pendants are of valuable pear-pearls, en girandoles, and a negligee necklace is worn round the neck, to which is appended a convent cross, all of pearls. A Maltese order, or cross, of brilliants, is sustained by a ribbon of bright etherial blue, which is thrown across the bust. This costume is one of the most chaste, and elegant kind, which has been seen for a long time for full dress.


A dress of celestial-blue satin with double puffings of the same material, next the shoe, divided from each other, and formed by being fastened down with rings of satin. A flounce of broad white blond, set on rather scanty to shew the beauty of the pattern, surmounts these ornaments. The body is made with fichu robings, and an ornament en guimpe, in front of the bust, very wide, and trimmed round the edge with white blond: the bust is surrounded by a falling tucker of blond; and under the dress is a fichu of tulle, surmounted by a broad ruff of blond, divided in the centre, by a white satin rouleau. The sleeves are a la Marie, and are divided only in the centre of the thickest part of the arm. The head dress consists of a white satin hat with the brim turned up in front, and under the brim, on the right side, are two small drooping white feathers. The crown is adorned with a superb white plumage, which plays in the most elegant manner, over the crown and brim.


FIG.1, and 2. – Back and front view of a head-dress in hair; with a bandeau of wrought gold across the forehead. Bird of Paradise plume inclining to the right side. Sometimes a cameo is added in the centre of the bandeau.


Though, as our nobility and many other of the higher order of gentry, have protracted their stay so long in the country, that we cannot look for their enlivening presence in our metropolis, till after the Christmas recess, yet a kind of interesting bustle has taken place in many of the best quarters of this capital: numerous well appointed carriages are seen at the west end of the town; and the pedestrian begins to feel himself hurried in crossing the spacious street, called Waterloo Place. Before the door of MRS. BELL’S unrivalled Magasin de Modes, we observed en passant, a few days ago, three or four very elegant carriages; from the owners of these, we have since learned, that she has completed much toilet paraphernalia, to order; a few specimens of which we, from having been indulged in the inspection of, now lay before our readers.

The envelopes, of every kind, for out-door costume will continue much the same; but there is nothing deemed so elegant in this department, as a pelisse of black gros de Naples, finished round the border by a broad hem, in deep gothic points. The front, which closes imperceptibly, is ornamented with lozenge diamonds, between which are foliage trimmings, consisting of two square leaves. The sleeves are en gigot, and the body laid in small plaits, but tight to the shape, with a falling collar of black satin.

A very splendid dress of amber satin, has been made for an evening party: it is ornamented, next the shoe, with a bias rouleau of gauze, of the same colour as the dress. Commencing from nearly as high as the knee, is a broad trimming of black velvet, terminating in points; and from between each point depends a scroll ornament, which, together, form a kind of flounce; these are of amber gauze edged by rouleaux of black velvet and amber satin. The trimming of black velvet, ending in points, is surmounted by a ruche of black tulle. The body is made with a fichu ornament, finished in front, en guimpe, and is of amber gauze, edged with satin rouleaux and black blond. The sleeves are short, with long ones over them of crape Aerophane, and amber satin cuffs.

A dress of blue gros de Naples, for the evening, is in a more simple style; it is bordered by one deep flounce of gauze, the same colour as the dress, edged by blue satin rouleaux, and the flounce headed by bows and ends of blue gauze, edged with satin. Long, white transparent sleeves, a la Mameluke, finished by a narrow blue satin cuff, with a blue strap placed horizontally, and terminating by a button; the body a la Greque, and Persian drapery of blue crepe-Aerophane, edged with blue satin rouleaux, complete this dress.

A morning dress of cinnamon-brown silk is much admired; it is finished at the border by a broad hem, headed by rosettes, placed close together; the body is half a la Roxelane; with a zone pointed above and below, and incircling that part of the waist, which is plain, and fitting close to the shape. The sleeves are en gigot.

A new kind of dress, named a l’Elizabeth, is in favour for evening parties; it is of black satin, and is trimmed at the border precisely in the same way as the amber dress, above described, all in black. The body is made en Polonaise, with fichu robings at the back and front, finished by points of black velvet. The sleeves are a la Marie, and are of white crepe-lisse.

An elegant ball dress for Christmas Festivals, is of vermillion-coloured crepe-Aerophane, with a broad bouillone ornament round the border, of the same colour in tulle; this is crossed in a bias direction, by double rouleax of vermillion and yellow satin; the bouillion is headed by full ornaments, placed en fers de Cheval, of crepe-Aerophane, bound round with satin, and in the interstices is a Geulder-Rose, of fancy colours, half vermillion, half yellow, with green foliage. The body is a l’Enfant, with Circassian drapery in front, confined by a belt, in Mosaic, on which are Chinese figures, beautifully executed. The short sleeves of vermillion-coloured satin, are covered by those which are long, of crepe-Aerophane, a la Mameluke: these are the colour of the dress and are finished at the wrist by a narrow cuff and strap in satin.

A novel kind of carriage bonnet, as to the material, is of black satin figured, in a small pattern of beautifully varied colours. It is trimmed with canary-yellow satin ribbon, with edges of black, in a design a la Grecque. A broad ornament of black blond hangs in drapery over the bows, on the crown, and terminates behind on the left side. A bonnet of plain black satin, trimmed in this way, is much admired for its peculiar elegance. Another carriage bonnet is of plush, in Egyptian plaid; it is trimmed with broad velvet ribbon, puce-colour, edged with amber, spotted with puce, with strings of the same, in a loop, and ornamented round the crown with tips of white Marabout feathers.

Caps a la Paon, and a la Psyche, constitute the most favourite head-dresses; the former has the Paon ornament in front, of splendid blond and very narrow pink satin rouleaux, under which is the stiffening, which keeps the Aureole, so formed, in shape; this cap is tastefully, but slightly ornamented with white gauze, striped ribbon, and in front next the hair, with full blown roses: the caul is of tulle, finished by pink and white satin ribbon, a la Grecque. A Psyche cap of tulle and very broad blond, of a most superb pattern, is intitled to a high degree of admiration; it is ornamented across the front with a half wreath of Damask-roses, and those of Jericho, in full bloom; and the same flowers cross the crown, behind; the strings are of white gauze ribbon, finished at the edges by a border, in a Greek pattern. Another cap of this kind, but rather smaller dimensions, has strings of two different colours, which float loose; and the half wreaths of flowers are composed of half opening red and white roses: the blond is of a pointed pattern, and one string is white, the other pink. A white coronet toque made entirely of feathers, is an elegant coiffure, for full dress; the plumage most admired is white, of the Ostrich kind, tipped with amber; or the feather half amber, half white, called by the French plumes boiteuses. The Vienna toques, are still in favour; but they are not improved by the lengthening of the puffs, which has taken place: these puffs are formed of white satin, and tulle of a bright Geranium colour.

Net ruffs, a la Bouffon, are much in request in half dress; they have the becoming lightness of blond, and more durability.

The new sautoir cravats, are extremely elegant, more so than those which were painted in various colours, notwithstanding the beauty of these last mentioned. Those which are worn over dress pelisses, or at the Opera, are of white satin, brocaded all over, in a kind of chain of butterflies, if we may be allowed the term; their colours are varied, but very light, chaste and delicate. These cravats are bound with an entwined rouleau of jonquil and vermillion coloured satin.

The most fashionable colours are amber, etherial-blue, jonquil, vermillion, and pink.


HATS AND BONNETS. – Feathers are seen on hats at the Institute and other meetings, where a certain style of dress is required: they are taught to wave gracefully; and a hat, on a late occasion, of this kind, was greatly admired, of violet-coloured velvet, with yellow plumage. A black velvet hat had a long willow feather of rose-colour. A Mazaniello {*Vide the Number of the Gentleman’s Magazine representing a Neapolitan Costume. The Conti de las Torres.} hat was ornamented with a Russian plume, half brown, half pink. Several hats have appeared of black satin; these are ornamented on one side by a long black willow feather. When flowers are worn in hats, they are small, with green foliage.

On the summit of the crowns of some hats is fixed a rosette of black velvet, of four puffs: one of the ends of this rosette is passed behind the other in front, and both meet on the left side, where they form another bow. A hat of gros des Indes, of pomegranate-red, is lined with white satin, and ornamented with two white Esprits or two Heorns’ feathers. Some fashionists lay ribbons on the brims and crowns of satin hats, at equal distances, so that they appear as if they were striped. Very often hats are seen of pomegranate-red plush, lined with striped velvet of various colours.

Feathers of the weeping willow kind are still the mode. Hats of black velvet, or satin, have two or three plumes of five black ostrich feathers. They are all on one stalk, and are very full, but not curled, though they have not the least appearance of flat feathers. Velvet hats, the colour of the Parma-ciolet, are some of them lined with satin of the same tint, others with white, but they are reckoned most elegant when bound with velvet; their sole ornament consists in two large puffs of velvet, separated in the middle by a brooch or a buckle of gold; some of these buckles represent a cypher or a single letter: this fashion, however, is likely to be only the fancy of a day. The hats are placed very backward, yet the crowns are so shallow that a part of the nape of the neck is discovered. A broad blond round a hat of purple or green velvet has an excellent effect. In deshabille, bonnets of satin are much worn; one of white satin has been much admired, lined with rose-colour, and surrounded by a blond, worth one hundred and fifty franks the ell.

Satin hats are worn in almost every style of dress. Those of gros des Indes, or of plain velvet, have the brims large and flat; but when feathers are worn with these hats, the brim is turned up slightly on the right side. A hat of yellow satin has been seen, the brim of which, both above and underneath, was bordered with branches of the palm, embroidered in ponceau silk. The same kind of wotk ornamented a broad band which surrounded the crown, on which bands were placed rosettes of yellow and ponceau satin.

Several hats of satin, the colour of Navarin-smoke, are lined with black velvet, and ornamented with very broad satin ribbon. There is often seen, on velvet hats, an ornament consisting of two planes disposed in a V, tied together by a rose-coloured ribbon with black stripes: two ends depend, from the rosette, which are brought round, form another bow bekind.

There are some yellow satin hats, ornamented with black and yellow feathers; the crown is trimmed round with languettes, edged with black blond, and the edge of the brim is also surrounded by black blond.

Round the crowns of several hats of gros de Naples, gros des Indes, or satin, are placed three or four crescents, with the points upwards. In the centre of each crescent is a rosette of satin ribbon. The hats of plain velvet have very broad and flat brims; they are worn without strings. The summit of the crown is sometimes ornamented with a white satin ribbon, twisted: on the right side are curled white feathers, tied together. Hats of satin, of bright colours, are ornamented at the edges with white blond. A hat of rose-coloured satin has been seen ornamented with two branches of white Valerian, forming clusters like those of the lilac blossoms, a third branch, the blossoms of which are supposed to have fallen off, discover only small berries.

OUT-DOOR COSTUME. – Boas are universal, pelerines of fur are but little worn.

The silk pelisses are all terminated by a broad hem round the border of the skirt. In front they are ornamented by rosettes of satin, in the centre of which is a small button or a buckle. There are some pelisses of figured poplin, closed down the front by Brandenburghs: they have two pelerine-capes, edged round with fringe, and the collar surmounted by a ruff of blond.

Witzcharras are again in favour this winter; those which are not lined with fur have shag-silk. On others, very broad bands of fur ornament the outside; the sleeves are so wide that ladies make use of them as a muff. There are some cloaks of Cachemire, extremely elegant, embroidered round with black, with three capes, full, Greek sleeves, and lined throughout with black velvet.

A pelisse of satin, the colour of the bird-of-paradise, surrounded by two rows of marten-skin, is very elegant.

Spotted poplin is a favourite material for pelisses; most of those for the deshabille promenade being made of that material; they fasten by satin straps or bows, with buckles or crescents of gold: sometimes these fastenings represent four leaves, trimmed round with narrow blond, and such are furnished in the centre by a Gothic clasp.

DRESSES. – Having confided to every rational female, both of Paris and the different provinces, the secret of the corsets having epaulettes that are put on and off at pleasure, we may be believed in speaking of the velvet dresses of pomegranate-red, cherry-colour, and emerald-green, which, at the benefit of an eminent musician’s wife, appeared to be falling off. There were some ladies, however, who wore the epaulettes mobiles; but, being worn without necklaces, the dresses appeared yet more off the shoulders, by the neck being entirely bare.

Spotted poplins, of pomegranate-red, are very fashionable, as are those of lapis-blue. The corsages are pointed, and the sleeves a la Marie. One deep flounce, or two, narrower, is the favourite manner of bordering these dresses. Some poplin dresses are of a ponceau colour, and are trimmed with flounces of white blond. The corsages of these dresses are often square. There is a new material fabricated at Lyons, for dresses, with broad satin stripes. They are bordered with two flounces edged with narrow blond; the corsage a la Sevigne, fastened in the front with a pin of precious stones.

Amongst the various dresses which appear at the public spectacles, several are seen of white muslin, with very wide sleeves. A white dress of Organdy, also, with a corsage of rose-coloured satin, pointed, and a waist encircled by a friar’s belt of the same colour. Dresses of pink Palmyrene, with black velvet boddice, are much admired: five points of velvet form epaulettes over the sleeves. Several dresses are of satin, the colour of the Parma-violet, green, or cerise, with the corsages disposed in the drapery, and the sleeves, a la Mameluke or a la Marie, in crepe-lisse, or in Aerophane. Others of spotted poplin, painted gros de Naples, or Indian brocade: but the most distinguished evening dresses are of Ispaphan satin, with wrapping drapery across the bust, and a double falling tucker of broad blond, which forms a pelerine over the back and shoulders. White Cachemire dresses, ornamented with gold, are prevalent; and one has been seen of blue, trimmed with a Greek border, in silver embroidery. A lady was lately seen at the theatre, in a dress of black velvet, with an enormous ruff of blond, and four gold bracelets, one of which was Gothic, enamelled in several colours: another was a la Cleopatra, a serpent, with the eyes formed of rubies; the third was composed of antique Cameos, and the fourth one was called “the slavery of the heart.” This was a galley-slave chain, with a padlock the shape of a heart, from which was a very little chain, that was fastened to the ring on the wedding finger. A dress has appeared on a young married lady, of white muslin, striped with gold; above the broad hem, which surrounded the border, fell a fringe of gold. Dresses of ponceau poplin, with two flounces of blond, set on in festoons, are much admired, and appropriate to winter. The corsage is square. The new white Lyonese stuff, in imitation of Cachemire, is much in request for dresses; it has broad stripes of brocaded satin. Two flounces, edged with narrow blond, generally form the border. The corsage is a la Sevigne, and in the centre of the drapery is a diamond pin.

Many ladies of fashion fasten a hook to their sash, to which is suspended, by a chain, a gold smelling bottle.

Though the corsets of women of fashion have a large busk of whalebone or steel, the dress-makers always introduce in those corsages, which are made with a point, a thin and narrow piece of whalebone, to prevent the corsage from forming creases; thence they obtained the name of a corsage busque.

When a fashionable lady puts on a dress, the corsage of which is not pointed, she has a belt which buckles and laces behind, in which is a whalebone, or a steel spring, placed under the lining, which prevents the point from turning upl

From the suppleness of Bombazin, two flounces generally finish the border of dresses which are made of that material: they are embroidered and set on in festoons. When a dress is of stuff, one broad hem only is worn next the shoe, and that is hemmed underneath, as formerly. Several dresses of black satin have been seen with black velvet pelerines, trimmed round with broad black blond, set on full. Dresses of English-green poplin have appeared, with a border of sable.

A dress is much admired of satin, the colour of the Parma-violet, with a plain corsage en Guimpe, and laced behind. It is bordered half-way up the skirt with Chinchilla, with a pelerine of the same.

Ball dresses are of crepe-Aerophane, the favourite colour, blue. Above a broad bias fold is an embroidery in white silk: the corsage is a la Grecque, with short sleeves. A sash of white satin, tied in front on the left side, in which is fixed a bouquet of blue and white flowers; the ends of the sash fall as low as the knees.

A dress 0f gaze-lisse, bordered with a broad hem, and five narrow rouleaux of satin, in rose-colour, with the corsage a la Marie Stuart, the base of the waist trimmed round with narrow blond, is much admired; the sleeves are short, and of crape, striped with narrow rouleaux of satin, the same as those on the border of the skirt; the sleeves are terminated by a narrow blond ruffle. A dress of marabout gauze is very elegant, trimmed with three rows of white satin cut in points, edged with blond; these points are put on falling down, flounce-wise. The same kind of trimming, in satin, surrounds the bust, and falls over the corsage very gracefully. It is expected, that at winter balls, black velvet boddices will be much in request, with white or coloured crape dresses. Well-made ladies know how this fashion sets off a fine shape.

Among the ball-dresses has been remarked one of rose-coloured crepe Aerophane, on which were painted, over the bias, vine-leaves.: the corsage was trimmed to correspond, and five vine-leaves formed the epaulettes on each shoulder.

Some mourning dresses, mingled among those of fancy, cause a pleasing contrast in different assemblies; rose-colour, white and blues, are seen with black. Several dresses of black velvet, have girdles worn with then of jet. Black crape dresses, in deep morning, are trimmed with satin. Fringes are often placed over the broad hem at the borders of dresses. Some of the figured poplin dresses appear as if they were embroidered: the favourite pattern is in stripes, representing the leaves of the almond tree, the willow, or the myrtle. Their trimming consists of two flounces with heads to them, and each edged by an open ornament formed of braiding. The same braiding is seen on the corsage, on the mancherons, and on the cuffs. The belt is buckled behind, and pointed in front; and to this point is suspended a friars belt, formed with three large plaits of braiding; the ends descending as low as the feet.

HEAD-DRESSES. – There is no head-dress more becoming than the Spanish toques now worn. It may be styled a truly bewitching coiffeure. Berets, also, of black velvet, ornamented with white feathers, recall to mind the time of Francis I. The lofty plume, on one side of the brim, has that originality, that refinement of coquetry, which we are taught to expect existed in a court, famed for its love for the sex, and its patronage of literature. Many ladies wear in their hair flowers in bouquets, placed between the puffs of hair, others, flowers in wreaths, brought rather low on the forehead; several prefer bandeaux of gold, cameos, or precious stones, which support aigrettes, en esprit, or a bird of paradise, fastened on one side of the head, and inclining towards the other. The hair is now arranged in that style which forms a happy medium between that towering elevation, and the Greek head-dress; however, the hair is less crossed over the temples, and is brought low on each cheek. Rose-coloured and white berets, but more especially black, are numerous; they are all of velvet, and are ornamented with white feathers; some are adorned with gold lace and buttons, are placed backwards and very much on one side, in order to display a bandeau of gold or pearls, which crosses the forehead; several of these bandeaux are clasped in front by an antique or diamond brooch. There are some berets, also, of white satin, which are ornamented with aigrettes or esprits of gold; they have two strings of ribbon, terminated each by a rosette; these cross over the beret, and fall down on the opposite side. Several diamond combs are ornamented in the diadem style, and there are head-dresses formed of gold aigrettes. Ribbons of Greek blue are often entwined among the tresses, when the hair is arranged in the Grecian style. Dress hats are often of black velvet, with two long white feathers, fastened in front by a bow of ribbon. Dress hats of rose-coloured satin have a plume of seven white flat feathers; the lappets, which float loose, are very broad. Diamonds, cameos, pearls, and various coloured gems, ornament the hair in full dress; of the latter, arrows are made, and are stuck tastefully in the hair. Ladies, who are continually changing their fashions, are often seen with strings of pearls wound round their hair, one of which crosses the forehead, en bandeau, and is fastened in the centre with a diamond brooch; the next evening perhaps, the same whimsical lady is seen with seven or eight ears of corn, all of diamonds, grouped together, and fastened on the left side of her head. Marabouts are favourite ornaments on toques and berets. Head-dresses of white feathers prevail much; amongst these an esprit is introduced; and sometimes is seen on one side of the head, a row of little feathers, of various colours, with some all white.

A new material for dress hats, promises to be in high favour in the ashionable world; it is composed of silk, silver, and small beads, beautifully interwoven together, and forming a net work; richness and lightness combine togtehr to render this article the most elegant and graceful of all the late inventions for the female toilet.

Some berets of gauffreed crape are very whimsical in appearance; their caul is round, to which is attached a square band, which is twisted and turned all manner of ways, while the extremities are brought up, to stand in contrary directions.

Berets of white crape are seen at evening dress parties, ornamented with seven white feathers, tipped with the colour of the corsage or the robe which is worn. Caps are much in favour, but they cannot now be called small dress caps. They are covered with roses, daisies, sweet peas, heart’s ease, and auriculus. They are worn by women of high fashion, and when seen at the theatre, always seem to announce that the wearer comes in her own carriage.

Some berets, formed of two differently coloured velvets, such as black and ponceau, are rounded off at the left, and represent an angle at the right. Other berets are oval on one side and square on the other; there are generally placed over them two birds of paradise, crossed like an X. On some flat berets of black velvet, there are variegated roses, black and rose-colour. Several berets are ornamented with aigrettes and white crosses. One has been seen of red Cachemere gauze, embroidered with gold, ornamented with two branches of heath, the leaves in gold, the blossoms of a beautiful vermillion.

On head-dresses in hair, small flowers are the most prevailing ornaments. Coronets, formed of jet beads, coronet toques of jay’s feathers, mingled with gold flowers, form the most elegant coiffeures for full dress. There are also seen marabouts placed among the tresses, and on white berets. Some very pretty berets have appeared, entirely of blond, adorned with flowers. A lady in mourning was lately seen with a beret of tulle, embroidered with black bugles, and two black aigrettes, formed of heron’s feathers, disposed like those of the bird of paradise.

JEWELLERY. – The new ear-pendants are very appropriately named Turkish ear-rings; they have three balls of plain, or enamelled gold, suspended to a half moon, and to every ball is hung a ring, or tuft of feathers, from some very rare bird.

The ingenuity of friendship, of the adroitness of love, has invented a new kind of ring, on which are hieroglyphic characters, traced in gold, on an azure ground, forming one of those words which can be only understood by the giver and the receiver. The learned antiquarian cannot explain their origin; it is the imagination and the heart which can alone comprehend them. These are called Egyptian rings, and on some there are really Egyptian characters, and even Hebrew; very little Greek – Greek is now too generally understoon.

All that is now revived in the title of Chatelaine, belongs to the female toilet; it consists in a bijou composed of various articles, and fastened together by a large chain of gold, which is fixed to the sash by a hook. A buckle, or a button falls over the skirt of the dress, to about a quarter of its length. The objects which terminate it are a very pretty gold key, the head of which is ornamented with turquoises, or differently coloured stones, a Gothic smelling bottle, in wrought gold, and some other little fancy ornaments. These Chatelaines are worn in half dress, and are become a very expensive article in jewellery.

MISCELLANEOUS. – A bright blue, named Navarin blue, is much in favour for dresses and pelisses, hats, bonnets, ribbons, flowers, and feathers. There are dresses with this coloured ground, worked with embroidery, in poplin, merino and Cachemire.

A grand piano-forte, placed in a drawing-room or a bed-chamber, is always covered with a kind of carpet, consisting of Cachemere, on which are arabesque characters of two different patterns, and some architecture; sometimes this colour is of embroidered merino, and sometimes plain Cachemire, ornamented with a rosace at every corner.

Fashion turns round and round the same circle. They now begin again to use knives with hollow handles of silver, the same as those seen fifty years ago; and, what is still more old fashioned, pheasants are not trussed like other birds, but are served up with their heads and tails on.

Several young females are preparing to appear at the different dancing assemblies, this winter, with plain stockings of flesh-coloured silk, and with checquered satin shoes, white and rose-colour, or Cerise and Navarin-blue. The ribbons which cross the ancle are never to be white.

At full dress balls, white silk open-lace stockings will be worn.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

Onward to February 1829

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