Newest London and Parisian Fashions for January, 1829

Though the nobility and the higher order of gentry in Russia dress in the French and English style, yet the wives and daughters of the most wealthy merchants, who hold a distinguished place of honour and respect in the Emperor’s dominions, retain their national costume, which is at once rich, beautiful, and peculiarly becoming to their cast of features. They have, also, of late, adopted the corsets worn in England and France, which have preserved their shapes, and proves the flaccidity so generally apparent in the Russian female, by after fourteen or fifteen, is not a deformity peculiar to the country, or entirely owing to the enervating and relaxing stove, over which artificial heat they indulge in their apartments, almost suffocating from their warmth, but that the shapes of the ladies in St. Petersburgh and Moscow, yield to none, when well taken care of.

The dress now presented to the notice of our fair readers is that of a merchant’s young wife of St. Petersburgh. Her dress is of a rich silk of pomegranate red, trimmed next o the feet by a border of some very valuable animal, from Siberia, the colour of the light sable of America. Over this is a layer of blue satin, embroidered with white and red: at some distance above is a zig-zag wave of yellow and green, and the border terminates over that by another layer of blue satin, embroidered similar to that which heads the fur. The body is made en Corset, lacing in front with blue silk cordon, and round the bust, and down each side of the lacing, are set, very close together, pearls of immense value. A chemisette tucker, of fine cambric draws modestly over the bust; and a girdle like a military sash, encircles the waist, in the old Russian style, in Grecian looseness; this sash has a double row of very rich fringe of scarlet and yellow ornamenting the ends, which descend as low as the border of the skirt. Long white sleeves of very fine cambric or lawn, cover the arms to the wrists. The cap is of a curious form, of the San-Benito kind; but this is not adorned with flames or demons, like that which designates the unfortunate victim of superstition. This is of yellow satin; next the hair is a slight ornament of silver, and at the edge, on the summit, are rouleaux in wavings of scarlet satin; from each side depend lappets of white gauze, beautifully painted in divers colours. The ear pendants are long and large, of plain gold. Muscovy boots, lined and trimmed round with fur; the boots of cerulean-blue satin, laced with scarlet, complete this costume: the hair is arranged a la Madonna, and is besides encircled by a blue fillet, with a large pearl, or a gold ornament in the centre.

These dresses of the merchant’s wives, were formerly loaded with gold and jewels; from the simplicity of the above, we are inclined to think the national costume is on the decline, except among the peasantry: it forms, however, a very pleasing attire for the fancy ball.

FIG. 1. – Double Beret-toque of white satin, beautifully painted with various-coloured flowers. A bird of paradise placed in front, between the divisions of the Beret. On the left side, over the ears, a fan and ends of ribbon, painted to correspond with the toque.

FIG. 2. – Back view of the same head-dress, all white.

FIG. 3. – Back view of a carriage hat of white satin, trimmed with pink and white ribbon, and ornamented with pink and white marabout feathers.

FIG. 1. Back view, half length, of a Walking Dress. – A pelisse of lavender gros de Naples, with a ruff of net, a la Bouffon, and round, long tippet, of marten-skin. Hat of black velvet, trimmed with white blond, and white satin ribbon.

FIG. 2. Back view of an Evening Costume. – Dress of Canary-yellow crape, with sleeves a la Mameluke. Beret of blue satin, ornamented with white Ostrich feathers

FIG. 3. Front and side view of a blond dress-cap, mixed with white satin. A wreath in front of full-blown roses and blue-bells. Lappets descending from each side, of very broad blond, of a rich pattern.

HATS AND BONNETS. – Feathers are seen on hats at the Institute and other meetings, where a certain style of dress is required: they are taught to wave gracefully; and a hat, on a late occasion, of this kind, was greatly admired, of violet-coloured velvet, with yellow plumage. A black velvet hat had a long willow feather of rose-colour. A Mazaniello {*Vide the Number of the Gentleman’s Magazine representing a Neapolitan Costume. The Conti de las Torres.} hat was ornamented with a Russian plume, half brown, half pink. Several hats have appeared of black satin; these are ornamented on one side by a long black willow feather. When flowers are worn in hats, they are small, with green foliage.

On the summit of the crowns of some hats is fixed a rosette of black velvet, of four puffs: one of the ends of this rosette is passed behind the other in front, and both meet on the left side, where they form another bow. A hat of gros des Indes, of pomegranate-red, is lined with white satin, and ornamented with two white Esprits or two Heorns’ feathers. Some fashionists lay ribbons on the brims and crowns of satin hats, at equal distances, so that they appear as if they were striped. Very often hats are seen of pomegranate-red plush, lined with striped velvet of various colours.

Feathers of the weeping willow kind are still the mode. Hats of black velvet, or satin, have two or three plumes of five black ostrich feathers. They are all on one stalk, and are very full, but not curled, though they have not the least appearance of flat feathers. Velvet hats, the colour of the Parma-ciolet, are some of them lined with satin of the same tint, others with white, but they are reckoned most elegant when bound with velvet; their sole ornament consists in two large puffs of velvet, separated in the middle by a brooch or a buckle of gold; some of these buckles represent a cypher or a single letter: this fashion, however, is likely to be only the fancy of a day. The hats are placed very backward, yet the crowns are so shallow that a part of the nape of the neck is discovered. A broad blond round a hat of purple or green velvet has an excellent effect. In deshabille, bonnets of satin are much worn; one of white satin has been much admired, lined with rose-colour, and surrounded by a blond, worth one hundred and fifty franks the ell.

Satin hats are worn in almost every style of dress. Those of gros des Indes, or of plain velvet, have the brims large and flat; but when feathers are worn with these hats, the brim is turned up slightly on the right side. A hat of yellow satin has been seen, the brim of which, both above and underneath, was bordered with branches of the palm, embroidered in ponceau silk. The same kind of wotk ornamented a broad band which surrounded the crown, on which bands were placed rosettes of yellow and ponceau satin.

Several hats of satin, the colour of Navarin-smoke, are lined with black velvet, and ornamented with very broad satin ribbon. There is often seen, on velvet hats, an ornament consisting of two planes disposed in a V, tied together by a rose-coloured ribbon with black stripes: two ends depend, from the rosette, which are brought round, form another bow bekind.

There are some yellow satin hats, ornamented with black and yellow feathers; the crown is trimmed round with languettes, edged with black blond, and the edge of the brim is also surrounded by black blond.

Round the crowns of several hats of gros de Naples, gros des Indes, or satin, are placed three or four crescents, with the points upwards. In the centre of each crescent is a rosette of satin ribbon. The hats of plain velvet have very broad and flat brims; they are worn without strings. The summit of the crown is sometimes ornamented with a white satin ribbon, twisted: on the right side are curled white feathers, tied together. Hats of satin, of bright colours, are ornamented at the edges with white blond. A hat of rose-coloured satin has been seen ornamented with two branches of white Valerian, forming clusters like those of the lilac blossoms, a third branch, the blossoms of which are supposed to have fallen off, discover only small berries.

OUT-DOOR COSTUME. – Boas are universal, pelerines of fur are but little worn.

The silk pelisses are all terminated by a broad hem round the border of the skirt. In front they are ornamented by rosettes of satin, in the centre of which is a small button or a buckle. There are some pelisses of figured poplin, closed down the front by Brandenburghs: they have two pelerine-capes, edged round with fringe, and the collar surmounted by a ruff of blond.

Witzcharras are again in favour this winter; those which are not lined with fur have shag-silk. On others, very broad bands of fur ornament the outside; the sleeves are so wide that ladies make use of them as a muff. There are some cloaks of Cachemire, extremely elegant, embroidered round with black, with three capes, full, Greek sleeves, and lined throughout with black velvet.

A pelisse of satin, the colour of the bird-of-paradise, surrounded by two rows of marten-skin, is very elegant.

Spotted poplin is a favourite material for pelisses; most of those for the deshabille promenade being made of that material; they fasten by satin straps or bows, with buckles or crescents of gold: sometimes these fastenings represent four leaves, trimmed round with narrow blond, and such are furnished in the centre by a Gothic clasp.

DRESSES. – Having confided to every rational female, both of Paris and the different provinces, the secret of the corsets having epaulettes that are put on and off at pleasure, we may be believed in speaking of the velvet dresses of pomegranate-red, cherry-colour, and emerald-green, which, at the benefit of an eminent musician’s wife, appeared to be falling off. There were some ladies, however, who wore the epaulettes mobiles; but, being worn without necklaces, the dresses appeared yet more off the shoulders, by the neck being entirely bare.

Spotted poplins, of pomegranate-red, are very fashionable, as are those of lapis-blue. The corsages are pointed, and the sleeves a la Marie. One deep flounce, or two, narrower, is the favourite manner of bordering these dresses. Some poplin dresses are of a ponceau colour, and are trimmed with flounces of white blond. The corsages of these dresses are often square. There is a new material fabricated at Lyons, for dresses, with broad satin stripes. They are bordered with two flounces edged with narrow blond; the corsage a la Sevigne, fastened in the front with a pin of precious stones.

Amongst the various dresses which appear at the public spectacles, several are seen of white muslin, with very wide sleeves. A white dress of Organdy, also, with a corsage of rose-coloured satin, pointed, and a waist encircled by a friar’s belt of the same colour. Dresses of pink Palmyrene, with black velvet boddice, are much admired: five points of velvet form epaulettes over the sleeves. Several dresses are of satin, the colour of the Parma-violet, green, or cerise, with the corsages disposed in the drapery, and the sleeves, a la Mameluke or a la Marie, in crepe-lisse, or in Aerophane. Others of spotted poplin, painted gros de Naples, or Indian brocade: but the most distinguished evening dresses are of Ispaphan satin, with wrapping drapery across the bust, and a double falling tucker of broad blond, which forms a pelerine over the back and shoulders. White Cachemire dresses, ornamented with gold, are prevalent; and one has been seen of blue, trimmed with a Greek border, in silver embroidery. A lady was lately seen at the theatre, in a dress of black velvet, with an enormous ruff of blond, and four gold bracelets, one of which was Gothic, enamelled in several colours: another was a la Cleopatra, a serpent, with the eyes formed of rubies; the third was composed of antique Cameos, and the fourth one was called “the slavery of the heart.” This was a galley-slave chain, with a padlock the shape of a heart, from which was a very little chain, that was fastened to the ring on the wedding finger. A dress has appeared on a young married lady, of white muslin, striped with gold; above the broad hem, which surrounded the border, fell a fringe of gold. Dresses of ponceau poplin, with two flounces of blond, set on in festoons, are much admired, and appropriate to winter. The corsage is square. The new white Lyonese stuff, in imitation of Cachemire, is much in request for dresses; it has broad stripes of brocaded satin. Two flounces, edged with narrow blond, generally form the border. The corsage is a la Sevigne, and in the centre of the drapery is a diamond pin.

Many ladies of fashion fasten a hook to their sash, to which is suspended, by a chain, a gold smelling bottle.

Though the corsets of women of fashion have a large busk of whalebone or steel, the dress-makers always introduce in those corsages, which are made with a point, a thin and narrow piece of whalebone, to prevent the corsage from forming creases; thence they obtained the name of a corsage busque.

When a fashionable lady puts on a dress, the corsage of which is not pointed, she has a belt which buckles and laces behind, in which is a whalebone, or a steel spring, placed under the lining, which prevents the point from turning upl

From the suppleness of Bombazin, two flounces generally finish the border of dresses which are made of that material: they are embroidered and set on in festoons. When a dress is of stuff, one broad hem only is worn next the shoe, and that is hemmed underneath, as formerly. Several dresses of black satin have been seen with black velvet pelerines, trimmed round with broad black blond, set on full. Dresses of English-green poplin have appeared, with a border of sable.

A dress is much admired of satin, the colour of the Parma-violet, with a plain corsage en Guimpe, and laced behind. It is bordered half-way up the skirt with Chinchilla, with a pelerine of the same.

Ball dresses are of crepe-Aerophane, the favourite colour, blue. Above a broad bias fold is an embroidery in white silk: the corsage is a la Grecque, with short sleeves. A sash of white satin, tied in front on the left side, in which is fixed a bouquet of blue and white flowers; the ends of the sash fall as low as the knees.

A dress 0f gaze-lisse, bordered with a broad hem, and five narrow rouleaux of satin, in rose-colour, with the corsage a la Marie Stuart, the base of the waist trimmed round with narrow blond, is much admired; the sleeves are short, and of crape, striped with narrow rouleaux of satin, the same as those on the border of the skirt; the sleeves are terminated by a narrow blond ruffle. A dress of marabout gauze is very elegant, trimmed with three rows of white satin cut in points, edged with blond; these points are put on falling down, flounce-wise. The same kind of trimming, in satin, surrounds the bust, and falls over the corsage very gracefully. It is expected, that at winter balls, black velvet boddices will be much in request, with white or coloured crape dresses. Well-made ladies know how this fashion sets off a fine shape.

Among the ball-dresses has been remarked one of rose-coloured crepe Aerophane, on which were painted, over the bias, vine-leaves.: the corsage was trimmed to correspond, and five vine-leaves formed the epaulettes on each shoulder.

Some mourning dresses, mingled among those of fancy, cause a pleasing contrast in different assemblies; rose-colour, white and blues, are seen with black. Several dresses of black velvet, have girdles worn with then of jet. Black crape dresses, in deep morning, are trimmed with satin. Fringes are often placed over the broad hem at the borders of dresses. Some of the figured poplin dresses appear as if they were embroidered: the favourite pattern is in stripes, representing the leaves of the almond tree, the willow, or the myrtle. Their trimming consists of two flounces with heads to them, and each edged by an open ornament formed of braiding. The same braiding is seen on the corsage, on the mancherons, and on the cuffs. The belt is buckled behind, and pointed in front; and to this point is suspended a friars belt, formed with three large plaits of braiding; the ends descending as low as the feet.

HEAD-DRESSES. – There is no head-dress more becoming than the Spanish toques now worn. It may be styled a truly bewitching coiffeure. Berets, also, of black velvet, ornamented with white feathers, recall to mind the time of Francis I. The lofty plume, on one side of the brim, has that originality, that refinement of coquetry, which we are taught to expect existed in a court, famed for its love for the sex, and its patronage of literature. Many ladies wear in their hair flowers in bouquets, placed between the puffs of hair, others, flowers in wreaths, brought rather low on the forehead; several prefer bandeaux of gold, cameos, or precious stones, which support aigrettes, en esprit, or a bird of paradise, fastened on one side of the head, and inclining towards the other. The hair is now arranged in that style which forms a happy medium between that towering elevation, and the Greek head-dress; however, the hair is less crossed over the temples, and is brought low on each cheek. Rose-coloured and white berets, but more especially black, are numerous; they are all of velvet, and are ornamented with white feathers; some are adorned with gold lace and buttons, are placed backwards and very much on one side, in order to display a bandeau of gold or pearls, which crosses the forehead; several of these bandeaux are clasped in front by an antique or diamond brooch. There are some berets, also, of white satin, which are ornamented with aigrettes or esprits of gold; they have two strings of ribbon, terminated each by a rosette; these cross over the beret, and fall down on the opposite side. Several diamond combs are ornamented in the diadem style, and there are head-dresses formed of gold aigrettes. Ribbons of Greek blue are often entwined among the tresses, when the hair is arranged in the Grecian style. Dress hats are often of black velvet, with two long white feathers, fastened in front by a bow of ribbon. Dress hats of rose-coloured satin have a plume of seven white flat feathers; the lappets, which float loose, are very broad. Diamonds, cameos, pearls, and various coloured gems, ornament the hair in full dress; of the latter, arrows are made, and are stuck tastefully in the hair. Ladies, who are continually changing their fashions, are often seen with strings of pearls wound round their hair, one of which crosses the forehead, en bandeau, and is fastened in the centre with a diamond brooch; the next evening perhaps, the same whimsical lady is seen with seven or eight ears of corn, all of diamonds, grouped together, and fastened on the left side of her head. Marabouts are favourite ornaments on toques and berets. Head-dresses of white feathers prevail much; amongst these an esprit is introduced; and sometimes is seen on one side of the head, a row of little feathers, of various colours, with some all white.

A new material for dress hats, promises to be in high favour in the ashionable world; it is composed of silk, silver, and small beads, beautifully interwoven together, and forming a net work; richness and lightness combine togtehr to render this article the most elegant and graceful of all the late inventions for the female toilet.

Some berets of gauffreed crape are very whimsical in appearance; their caul is round, to which is attached a square band, which is twisted and turned all manner of ways, while the extremities are brought up, to stand in contrary directions.

Berets of white crape are seen at evening dress parties, ornamented with seven white feathers, tipped with the colour of the corsage or the robe which is worn. Caps are much in favour, but they cannot now be called small dress caps. They are covered with roses, daisies, sweet peas, heart’s ease, and auriculus. They are worn by women of high fashion, and when seen at the theatre, always seem to announce that the wearer comes in her own carriage.

Some berets, formed of two differently coloured velvets, such as black and ponceau, are rounded off at the left, and represent an angle at the right. Other berets are oval on one side and square on the other; there are generally placed over them two birds of paradise, crossed like an X. On some flat berets of black velvet, there are variegated roses, black and rose-colour. Several berets are ornamented with aigrettes and white crosses. One has been seen of red Cachemere gauze, embroidered with gold, ornamented with two branches of heath, the leaves in gold, the blossoms of a beautiful vermillion.

On head-dresses in hair, small flowers are the most prevailing ornaments. Coronets, formed of jet beads, coronet toques of jay’s feathers, mingled with gold flowers, form the most elegant coiffeures for full dress. There are also seen marabouts placed among the tresses, and on white berets. Some very pretty berets have appeared, entirely of blond, adorned with flowers. A lady in mourning was lately seen with a beret of tulle, embroidered with black bugles, and two black aigrettes, formed of heron’s feathers, disposed like those of the bird of paradise.

JEWELLERY. – The new ear-pendants are very appropriately named Turkish ear-rings; they have three balls of plain, or enamelled gold, suspended to a half moon, and to every ball is hung a ring, or tuft of feathers, from some very rare bird.

The ingenuity of friendship, of the adroitness of love, has invented a new kind of ring, on which are hieroglyphic characters, traced in gold, on an azure ground, forming one of those words which can be only understood by the giver and the receiver. The learned antiquarian cannot explain their origin; it is the imagination and the heart which can alone comprehend them. These are called Egyptian rings, and on some there are really Egyptian characters, and even Hebrew; very little Greek – Greek is now too generally understoon.

All that is now revived in the title of Chatelaine, belongs to the female toilet; it consists in a bijou composed of various articles, and fastened together by a large chain of gold, which is fixed to the sash by a hook. A buckle, or a button falls over the skirt of the dress, to about a quarter of its length. The objects which terminate it are a very pretty gold key, the head of which is ornamented with turquoises, or differently coloured stones, a Gothic smelling bottle, in wrought gold, and some other little fancy ornaments. These Chatelaines are worn in half dress, and are become a very expensive article in jewellery.

MISCELLANEOUS. – A bright blue, named Navarin blue, is much in favour for dresses and pelisses, hats, bonnets, ribbons, flowers, and feathers. There are dresses with this coloured ground, worked with embroidery, in poplin, merino and Cachemire.

A grand piano-forte, placed in a drawing-room or a bed-chamber, is always covered with a kind of carpet, consisting of Cachemere, on which are arabesque characters of two different patterns, and some architecture; sometimes this colour is of embroidered merino, and sometimes plain Cachemire, ornamented with a rosace at every corner.

Fashion turns round and round the same circle. They now begin again to use knives with hollow handles of silver, the same as those seen fifty years ago; and, what is still more old fashioned, pheasants are not trussed like other birds, but are served up with their heads and tails on.

Several young females are preparing to appear at the different dancing assemblies, this winter, with plain stockings of flesh-coloured silk, and with checquered satin shoes, white and rose-colour, or Cerise and Navarin-blue. The ribbons which cross the ancle are never to be white.

At full dress balls, white silk open-lace stockings will be worn.