This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.
COSTUME OF ALL NATIONS, NO. 41.
DRESS OF A FEMALE ON THE BORDERS OF LAC MAGGIORE.
The females of these environs are not only remarkable for their Italian beauty, but also for a very peculiar kind of costume, which much sets off their outward attractions; and it is well known that, when they are habited like other European women, their beauty appears less striking.
The figure represented in our engraving may be regarded as a portrait, as it was actually taken from the life, and may be depended on as a classical representation of the most prevailing dress worn by the greater part of the females in the environs of Lac Maggiore.
The petticoat is of white satin, superbly ornamented at the border with rosettes in Chenille of bright crimson: these rosettes depend in rows, forming a very splendid border, and each row is headed by a bow of crimson ribbon, united together by a narrow rouleau of the same colour. The corsage is of black velvet or satin, with a kind of jacket-frill appendage round the waist, forming a sash; this also is crimson. In front of the corsage is a stomacher of yellow satin, checkered in crimson diamonds of ribbon, from whence depends a very narrow and short apron of the same. The sleeves are of Italian tiffany, white, and very full; a plain cuff confines them a little below the elbow; and the mancherons, instead of being loose, as they usually are, tighten the sleeve on the shoulder, and are formed en treillage, in crimson ribbon; a bow of which, with long ends, is placed on the top of each shoulder. The hair is arranged a la Madonna, and is ornamented with crimson Chenille, in a a very unique fashion; it is entwined among the cross braid of hair over that which is divided on the forehead; a full bow of the Chenille is then placed above each ear; and from these bows depend loops, at the termination of which is another bow just touching the shoulder. The other ornaments on the hair consist of a row, en aureole, of Glauvina-pins, with very long stalks of silver or gold, headed by ruby hearts. The ear-pendants are en girandoles, and are of finely-wrought gold. A black velvet-collar encircles the throat, fastened in front with a Chrysolite set in gold. The bracelets are of black velvet, clasped by a Cameo. Slippers of bronze-coloured satin, are laced en sandales.
WALKING DRESS.
A pelisse of white jaconot muslin, en tunique, embroidered down the sides, and over the broad hem which surrounds the border, in a delicate pattern of green. The body, en gerbe, confined round the waist by a small bow, with very long and broad ends, embroidered in a correspondent manner with the pelisse; as is a double pelerine cape and falling collar, which finish the corsage. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille, and are confined at the wrists by broad gold bracelets. The bonnet is of white chip, ornamented under the brim with stripes and points of white satin. The trimming on the bonnet is of chip and satin, disposed en fers de Cheval; among which are placed garden-lillies, and pale-blue larkspurs. The bouquet in front of the bonnet is larger and fuller than that on the left side. The strings are placed under the bonnet, and float loose.
WALKING-DRESS.
A pelisse of muslin embroidered down each side of the front, where it is left open, and also above the hem round the border of the skirt; this latter embroidery is, however, of a slighter pattern than that down the sides. The body is plain, and confined at the waist by a white watered-silk ribbon, fastened in front by a gold buckle. The sleeves are a l’Orientale, unconfined at the wrist, and are embroidered next the hand. A double pelerine falls over the shoulders, each bordered with embroidery, and terminated by fringe or lace. A ruff, approaching to the commencement of the throat, finishes the pelerine; this is triple, and of fine lace, fastening in front by a bow of white satin ribbon. The hat is of white chip, trimmed with spring-green ribbon and branches of willow: a cornet of blond is worn underneath
FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.
FIG. 1. A carriage-hat of white chip; ornamented under the brim with white gauze striped ribbon. Full plume of white Marabout feathers in front; a smaller one drooping over the right side of the brim.
FIG. 2. A back view of the same hat.
FIG. 3. A back and front view of a crape hat, the colour of the Chinese-rose, trimmed with ribbons of the same colour, edged with hair-stripes of black, richly ornamented with white blond, and two esprits of green and fawn-colour.
FIG. 4. Front and back view of a promenade-hat of white gros-de-Naples, trimmed with white striped gauze ribbon: with a very broad blond at the edge of the brim.
FIG. 5. Front and back view of a blond cap; the double borders of which, in a Vandyck pattern, are turned entirely back. A rouleau of Corn-flower-blue ribbon surrounds the hair in front, with bows in three long loops over each temple. Similar bows are placed at the back of the head, with a rouleou separating the caul from the borders.
WALKING AND MORNING DRESSES.
DRESS THE FIRST.
A dress of celestial-blue gros de Naples, chequered in diamonds, in a hair stripe of darker blue. Two ornaments, set on flounce-wise, surround the border; they consist of points, waving across in bias; the points are edged by a dark blue rouleau; and each flounce-ornament is headed by a rouleau the same colour as the dress. The corsage is a la Roxelane; the front of the bust formed en chevrons, by rouleaux of light blue. The body is cut very low from the neck and shoulders, and surrounded by a falling tucker of lace; one row of which forms a mancheron over the. short sleeves. A bonnet of white chip is ornamented underneath with celestial blue ribbon; and the crown has a few bows of the same ribbon: in the front are placed two arched wreaths of flowers, one above the other; the lower arch consisting of very small roses, thickly grouped together; the upper, of blue bells. Long, broad strings of blue striped gauze ribbon float loose. Ear-rings and necklace of opal, set in gold a l’antique; bracelets of gold clasped with a cameo. Shoes of celestial blue kid, en sandales.
CENTRE FIGURE.
A pelisse of fine jaconot muslin, with a very broad hem round the border, of muslin, embroidered in large, diamond chequers; this ornament is headed by a full ruche of clear muslin, and the ruche surmounted by scalops, richly embroidered in spots; down the front of the skirt of the pelisse, where it fastens, is a ruche to correspond with that round the border, at one side of which are scalops embroidered in spots. The body is en gerbe; and is confined round the waist by a ribbon in a Chinese pattern, in the front of which is placed a rainbow fan, spread open, and seeming to form a part of the body en gerbe. The ends of the sash, which depend in front, are very broad and long ; and are of white ribbon, striped a la Chinoise, with canary yellow, blue, and marshmallow blossom, the same colours which form the stripes across the fan. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille, with a very broad cuff, tight at the wrist, the upper part only ruffled. A bracelet, consisting of two rows of coral beads, incircles the left wrist. A pelerine of fine India muslin, surrounded by a ruche of tulle, covers the neck, and is surmounted by a double ruff of lace, tied in front with a ribbon the same as the sash. The hat is of white gros de Naples, turned up slightly on the right side, with notched ends, formed into a rosette, of pink and white ribbon ; white gauze ribbons, with pink stripes, form the strings and ornaments on the hat, with beautifully grouped flowers, bent archwise in front, and a bouquet on the left side: they are chiefly red roses with their green foliage.
THIRD DRESS.
A dress of a light fawn Organdy, with a flounce round the border, embroidered in separate branches of blue and jonquil-coloured foliage, in coloured crewel: above this flounce is a rich border of embroidery, consisting of yellow and blue field flowers; these are surmounted by detached branches of foliage, corresponding with those on the flounce. The body is en gerbe, and is finished round the bust by a Paladin cape, embroidered at the edge in blue and yellow: under the dress is worn a fichu, surmounted by a double ruff of lace. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille; embroidered next the shoulder with dependant branches of blue and yellow foliage. At the wrist is a cuff, headed by antique points, which only are perceptible; the rest of the cuff being concealed by a broad bracelet of hair, fastened by an emerald, on the left hand, and a cameo on the right. The sash is embroidered to correspond with the work on the dress. The hat is of fine leghorn; and is ornamented under each side of the brim by a rosette of Cerulean blue ribbon, edged on one side by yellow; the hat ties under the chin by a mentoniere of blond, on the right side, with blue and yellow ribbon: three branches of fancy flowers, of the bell kind, wave in front of the crown, in the style of feathers; they are blue and yellow. Black kid half-boots complete the dress.
N.B. Back view of a Leghorn hat, trimmed with white, and Chinese rose-coloured ribbon: with branches of rose- Canterbury-bells, disposed like feathers.
EVENING AND WALKING DRESSES.
DRESS THE FIRST.
A dress of Lavender gros de Naples, with two flounces round the border, cut in points at the edges; the upper flounce headed by ornaments in triple points. A canezou spencer of embroidered tulle is worn over the dress, with the body made tight to the shape, and finished by a fichu-pelerine, with the cape cleft at the shoulders, and trimmed round with lace. A double lace ruff incircles the throat, with a bow of lavender ribbon in front. Sleeves a l’Imbecille, with very broad bracelets of white and gold enamel, fastened by a cameo head. A hat of white chip, ornamented with green and white feathers: a bow of green and white ribbon is placed under the brim on the right side. Neapolitan ear-rings in Mosaic. Half-boots of spring-green satin.
DRESS THE SECOND.
Over a white muslin petticoat, with two broad rows let in across of embroidered muslin, is worn a pelisse of corn-flower-blue watered gros de Naples. The pelisse is made without sleeves, and the collar turns back en schal; under the pelisse is worn a canezou of fine India muslin, laid in small plaits. The sleeves a l’Imbecille, with very broad plain cuffs, sitting close to the wrists. A jeannette collar of black velvet, with its gold ornaments, depends from the throat ; but the cross is not a la Jeannette; it is of the Maltese kind. The hat is of corn-flower blue crape, ornamented under the brim with points of satin, between which are quillings of blond. The crown is adorned with a profusion of blond, and two white esprit feathers on the right side: very long strings of broad blue ribbon, depend from each side of the hat.
FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES, &c.
FIG. 1. – A half-length back view of the figure above described.
FIG. 2. – Back view of a white chip hat, trimmed with pale pink and white ribbon, with a plume of pink feathers.
FOURTH DRESS.
A dress of gros de Naples, the colour, Egyptian-sand; over two rouleaux of the same, next the shoe, is a very deep flounce, beautifully embroidered at the edge in a pattern of corn-flowers; elegant bouquets of which are worked on the dress above the flounce. The body is en gerbe, with a pointed zone, embroidered to suit the flowers on the skirt. The sleeves a la Mameluke, of a very moderate fullness, confined at the wrists by gold bracelets fastened by an emerald set in gold. A pelerine of fine muslin, fastens behind, and is surrounded by a superb broad lace, and a very full quadruple ruff of narrow lace surrounds the throat, yet not approaching too near the chin. A hat of white gros de Naples is beautifully ornamented with double exotic flowers of a cornflower-blue, with a light green esprit on the right side, and a few ears of corn on the left. Beneath the brim, at its edge, on the right side, is a small bouquet of the flower, “Forget-Me-Not,” and ears of ripe corn.
NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR JULY, 1829.
Very few have, as yet, been the departures for the country ; and they have taken place chiefly on account of declining health, or to preserve that of the younger part of a family, who may be at home for the summer recess. The capital, at the present moment, is a scene of splendour, from the numerous members of rank and fashion which grace her public walks, her elegant and scientific morning amusements, and her public spectacles.
True, these glories are arrived at their zenith, and ere another month shall have passed away, they will be fading from the horizon of our now gay metropolis; but the splendid parties given by royalty, and by the nobles of the land, have afforded lately by their brilliancy, an unrivalled scene of taste and magnificence, and have, also, it is hoped, been beneficial to native talent and industry.
A very beautiful bonnet for the carriage morning visiting dress, is of white crape, finished about the crown by ornaments of the same material, and with blond; under the brim are inlacings of white satin; and on the crown the puffs and ornaments are relieved by very light aigrettes of real marabout white feathers, being placed between, one of which appears beneath the left side of the brim. Another elegant carriage bonnet is of striped blond gauze, pink on white, and on the white space between the pink stripes, is a narrow variegated stripe of various colours, in brocade. This bonnet is ornamented by folds and en bateaux of pink satin, and of the same gauze-blond as the bonnet; the bows and strings, which latter are in a loop, are of steam-yellow satin, and plain pink doubled gauze, sewn together.
Among the new head-dresses is a cap for demi-parure, of tulle, the borders doubled in bias, and crowned by straw-coloured ribbons, long strings of which, in striped gauze, float loose. A cap, fitted for the theatre, is of rich blond, trimmed with Jaune-vapeur, striped gauze ribbon, and ornamented under the broad border, which turns back, over each temple, with bouquets of white, purple, and yellow narcissusses; these flowers are all double. A dress hat for the opera or for an evening party is of white clear net, lined with blue crepe- aerophone, and trimmed with the same, and with white tulle : two very long strings or lappets depend from the right side; they are formed of long puffings of white and blue crepe-aerophane; under the brim is a bandeau of the same, which crossing the forehead, terminates by a bar on the right side. A plume of blue ostrich feathers finishes the hat. A most superb dress-hat for a grand evening party, or for the opera, is of pink crape, bound with a bias edge of pink satin; an ornament of broad white blond appears, slightly full under the right side of the brim, with a loop of pink gauze ribbon; and a most splendid willow plumage of pink and white feathers, in stripes crosswise, covers the crown, and plays with grace and elegance over the brim. A dress hat for dinner parties, in rural excursions, is of white stiffened net, trimmed with white satin ribbon: under the right side of the brim is a small, full bouquet of white and crimson stocks, and a light plume of white marabouts waves over the crown. This hat is without strings, and the brim is very shallow behind, giving to the hat somewhat the appearance of a dress bonnet. A pink crape beret, with striped gauze pink ribbons, and worn either with or with-out feathers, according to the style of dress, is a very favourite coiffeure.
Except what we have represented in our engravings in the out-door department, there is scarce any change since last month, except the pelerine-mantelet of fine Indian muslin, richly embroidered, with long ends depending to the feet, the ends rounded. They are extremely elegant, as is the oriental pelisse of muslin, fringed and embroidered, and left open in front of the skirt; very loose sleeves of the true Persian kind, are left unconfined at the wrists.
The ball dresses consist of coloured crape, over white satin, and have nothing decisive as to the form of the corsages, or to their style of trimming, in which little alteration or novelty can be looked for, as they will now be so soon laid aside, except for the Fete Champetre, when, most probably, white tulle dresses will supersede every other.
The colours most admired are pink, etherial-blue, straw-colour, spring-green, violet, and jonquil.
NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.
HATS AND BONNETS. – Chesnut-blossoms, and those of the marshmallow, are favourite flowers on hats of every kind. Some white crape bonnets are ornamented with a wreath of blue-bells, with a wreath of the same flowers embroidered at the edge of the brim, and another underneath; in front of these bonnets is placed two bouquets of coquelicots, blue-bells, and ears of corn, disposed in a V.
Even in deshabille, a lady ought to have a superb demi-veil of blond round her hat. Bonnets, lined with rose-colour, prevail much in the country. All the flowers now worn on hats are placed in the style of feathers. Many bonnets are seen of green gros de Naples, tied down very close over the ears; there are also some bonnets, the fronts of which are of straw, and the crown of white gros de Naples.
There are some very charming bonnets made of ribbons sewn together; those of gauze are white and rose-colour, or blue and white ; they are placed alternately, and are surrounded by a broad blond; they are truly elegant. On white chip hats, are placed aigrettes of small feathers, half rose-colour and half white, or Jaune vapeur and white; these are much admired. White hats of gros de Naples are sometimes ornamented with a rosette, the two ends of which are finished by blue-feather fringe. A hat of white chip has been seen with six green feathers, placed one above the other.
Eight or ten tulips, with their green foliage, and feathers besides, often compose the ornaments on a leghorn hat; these flowers are placed in front of the crown. A Leghorn hat has been seen ornamented with gauze ribbon, appearing like blond; the colours ponceau and Chinese green: a branch of the winter-cherry, with its green leaves and scarlet fruit, surrounded the crown; the branch, by being bent, took a direction whereby it was lost under the brim. At the other part of the branch, at the summit of the crown, was perched a tom-tit, pecking at one of the cherries.
The way of trimming hats of gros de Naples, consists in placing at the front of the crown, a bias, in the form of an empty horn, and then filling this semblance of a horn with an abundance of flowers, thus rendering it a cornucopia. The horn is edged round with blond and a rouleau.
For the promenade in the fields or gardens, young persons wear straw bonnets; the brim is very large, and ties close down over the cheeks, they are lined with coloured gros de Naples; these bonnets have no other trimming than a band of ribbon, which encircles the crown, and of which the strings are formed.
Hats of straw, or white chip, are ornamented with branches of blue heath, placed in the manner of a bird-of-paradise plume; they are lined with blue crape, and a white blond veil is worn with them. There are some very charming bonnets of painted gros de Naples, which are trimmed at the edge of the brim with white blond: sometimes these bonnets have only the crown painted, and the brim is of white chip. The English hats are much worn in the morning walks, for shopping, and at coming from the baths. They are often of figured straw, and are lined with rose-coloured satin; they tie down with strings of the same, which constitute all their ornament. The riding-hats are of black beaver. Hats of white watered gros de Naples are bound and trimmed, with rose-coloured striped gauze ribbons. Under the brim is a bandeau with rosettes; above, bows and strings. Japanese roses are favourite, flowers on hats, and a demi-veil of blond is in universal esteem. Leghorn hats are lined with coloured gros de Naples. Green and white ribbons, with a double bouquet of lilies of the valley, are favourite ornaments on white chip hats; the ribbons cross the crown, in bias, and the bouquets are placed one on each side.
OUT-DOUR COSTUME. Cachemire shawls are worn when the weather is chill; when warm, scarfs of white lace are seen in the public walks.
Jacanot muslin pelisses arc much worn in the morning walks ; they are open before, and discover the petticoat; they are called pelisses a la Maitresse; on account of a favourite actress wearing such a dress in the dramatic piece “La Maitresse.”
Beneath the ruffs, worn round the neck, are collars, named a la fiancee; they consist of two points of taffety, or gros de Naples, of two different colours, which cross under a runner.
There are some new shawls, named Moresca-Cachemere; they are of two or three colours, and are ornamented at the corners by bouquets of flowers.
There are some pelisses of jaconot muslin, which are bordered by a very broad hem, separated from the other part of the skirt by letting in stripes of muslin, richly embroidered in feather-stitch. Almost all the shawls of Chinese crape have borders of different colours imprinted on them; but the most elegant are those which are worked in flat embroidery. In the country, a favourite out-door costume for young persons, consists of a plaited canezou with a petticoat of plain gingham. The canezou fastens by five or six buttons of gold, mother-of-pearl, or tortoise-shell.
DRESSES. Dresses of white muslin, or of Organdy, are very general; as are those of muslin, with very large patterns printed on them. Dresses of rose-coloured crape, with the corsage in drapery, have, above the broad hem at the border, which ascends as high as the knee, a full ruche, pinked, of rose crape.
Much care has been bestowed in giving firmness to the broad hems at the borders of dresses, in order that the skirt, which is still very short, may have that roundness which is now so particularly admired in ball-dresses. It has, indeed, been said, that some fashionable ladies have had whalebone introduced into the borders of their petticoats. One step more, and hoops may again become fashionable!
White canezous are so numerous, that to be distinguished in this way, they ought to be covered with embroidery, or trimmed with a profusion of lace, costing more than four or five times the price of the dress, over which they are worn. A young lady, recently married, having ingenuously expressed her partiality for this accessary to the toilet, found in her corbeille one so extremely beautiful, that for the space of a fortnight, it was an object of curiosity to all her female friends and acquaintance; it is estimated at six hundred franks.
It is not pleasant to be compelled to give always the true reason why fashions often bear a ludicrous though appropriate name; but the long and loose sleeves now worn without any support from the shoulder to the writs, are styled sleeves a l’imbecille.* {*And they are justly so named ; for they are exactly like those worn by the fool or clown in a pantomime, and the Chinese drolls, which perform such characters in their excellent plays. ED.}
At a fete extraordinary at Tivoli, a beautiful Italian wore a clear dress of printed muslin ; the ground, a Nankin colour, figured en colonnes, in Chinese designs ; the sleeves were a l’imbecille, with broad ruffles of embroidered tulle, and a pelerine to correspond. A very deep flounce bordered the dress; a scarf, called a printanniere, with flowers embroidered in coloured silks on a white ground.
Four very pretty young females wore dresses very tastefully trimmed; one was of slate-coloured gros de Naples, trimmed with tufted fringe; the second had a striped muslin dress, of a Persian pattern; the third a dress of Organdy, embroidered in oak-leaves, and acorns in green chervel; the fourth a dress of steam-yellow poplin.
High dresses are worn, and likely so to be during the sojournment in the country; they are made with a stomacher, and buttoned or laced behind. Some are of plain materials, and the front is cut in bias; others are plaited and stitched below the throat. The epaulettes descend very low, and the sleeves are kept in shape by a runner, and stitched at the opening at the wrists. With the above corsages a ruff only is worn, round the neck, and is of tulle. The bodies, which are made as canezous, are separate from the skirt. The cuffs come very low over the hands, and are ruffled.
A new kind of bias have appeared to embellish the summer evening costume, the charming shades of which seem to have been “dipt in the woof of Iris.” They are simple, graceful, and elegant. The tissue is of a transparent kind, and of a variety of colours ; these are named rainbows.
At the rural balls many ladies wear muslin dresses, the ground white, with a pattern over it of various colours, large green foliage with yellow and rose-coloured flowers, disposed in stripes ; these dresses are made with a a stomacher, and have sleeves a l’imbecille. The body is covered with a fichu of tulle, plain, with two stripes of embroidery let in. This fichu is in the form of a pelerine, and is edged round with narrow lace; its long ends are crossed over in front, and tie in a bow behind.
Perhaps it is to put an end, as soon as possible, to the the large sleeves, that they have been named, a l’imbecille. It must be confessed that they are universally adopted; however, a new form begins to appear; it is a l’amadis, very tight from the elbow to the wrist, while the upper part of the sleeve, which is extremely wide, falls above the elbow, like a kind of ruffle.
Fringes are universally used in trimmings. Above a broad hem have been seen points dependant, trimmed round the edges with fringe. Batistes are worn in every style of dress; they are often embroidered in colours, especially on white, and form a very pretty dress for the summer.
Dresses of straw-coloured Organdy are embroidered in wreaths of blue flowers; these represent heath, and are formed in stripes down the shirt, where they terminate above the hem by bunches of detached heath. The sleeves are of plain tulle, and are confined at the wrist by a cuff formed of a double row of pleated Alencon point lace, which lace trims the edge of the pelerine worn with this dress.
There is no change in the make of the riding-habits. Several have been seen of Swedish, the Merino, or of English green. At the promenades, and at the fetes-champetres, there are many dresses seen of muslin figured over in very large Persian patterns; while others have very small sprigs. In carriages are seen Egyptian patterns of every kind.
The most fashionable ginghams are those with very narrow and close stripes of rose-colour; the sleeves of such dresses are a l’imbecille, with the epaulettes formed like a half-moon. Two full, fluted flounces, finish the border of the skirt: the back and shoulders are much exposed. Most dresses are, however, bordered by a broad hem, over which are often three rows of flat braiding, placed apart from each other; over them a broad bias fold, surmounted also by three rows of braiding; this same kind of braiding is placed on the corsage, where it is out, away at the back and shoulders, and the front is en gerbe: this braiding, on coloured dresses, is white. The sashes are of bright jonquil, figured with brown, and these are named Chinese ribbons.
Every lady who goes to the nicety of fashion wears ruffles; they are of jacanot or embroidered muslin, and are only full next the wrist. Others have a frill at the wrist and also at the upper part. The ruffles are of fine muslin laid in small plaits, and edged with Valenciennes lace.
HEAD-DRESSES. The summer fashion of wearing the hair in evening dress, without any ornament, has commenced even among the members of royalty. The tresses are arranged in a bandeau over each temple, three bows on the summit of the head, and at their base a plat, which is wound round, to form the elevation. The dress hats are of white chip, with two tails of the bird-of-paradise placed end to end at the summit of the crown. A rosette of saffron-coloured ribbon fastens these feathers in front. Another rosette is placed at the base of the crown behind ; and a third, more full, is seen on the left side, almost at the edge of the brim. The ends of a ribbon, which, at the top, goes round the crown, are spread out, and are united to the last mentioned rosette. The strings of the hat are trimmed.
Caps, a la fiancee, are ornamented with blue flowers, they are placed very backward; and the hair is in full clusters over each temple. Berets of white crape, in full dress, are encircled by silver lace bands, placed at equal distances. A beret-toque a l’Italienne, in rose-coloured crape, is trimmed with a very full plume of rose-coloured feathers. Some head-dresses, in hair, are simply ornamented with a large full-blown rose, or a piony, placed behind, and quite at the summit of the head. At the last performances at the German theatre, the ladies had all head-dresses in hair, or blond caps. The favourite head-dress for balls in the country, is a fine Leghorn hat placed quite at the back of the head, and ornamented with two long branches of white-thorn in blossom, placed arch-wise, one above the other; white gauze ribbons, with broad satin stripes, and a small cornette of blond, tying under the chin; two broad strings of gauze ribbon stream behind, one descending from the summit of the crown, the other at its base. The hair, arranged a la Judith, that is to say, brought near on the forehead to its centre; then falling, in very full curls, one over the other to the throat. A picture of Judith, by Paul Veronese, represents her with her hair arranged in this manner. Some dress hats are of white chip, and are ornamented with flowers, which vibrate on their stalks.
At the theatres are seen many small caps, the crowns of which are in treillage work, formed of pink and satin rouleaux, and the front of gauze ribbons, cut into leaves; there is no blond introduced in these caps.
In the country have been seen several female dancers, whose heads were ornamented with natural flowers; poppy, blue-bells, laurel-roses, pinks, and pomegranite-blossoms. These flowers had long stalks, and were placed be- hind the bows of hair which formed the summit of the head-dress. Some fashionable ladies have essayed at the Opera, and at the Theatre Favart, to adorn their hair also with natural flowers; but the heat of these places soon faded them, before the performance was half over.
JEWELLERY. Jewels begin to decline in favour. There are but few bracelets worn, unless in full dress. The Chatelaines seem not to accord with summer costumes; a key of gold, fastened to a neck-chain, seems most in vogue. A new fashion, however, which is as original as genteel, is that of small enamelled smelling-bottle, in the form of a watch, fastened by a very pretty chain to a ring, which is placed on the finger over the glove; this little smelling-bottle, which escapes from it, is taken back again, falls again, and yet remains always suspended to the finger: this is a species of bijou, that may serve to replace in summer, the fans which are so much played with during the winter.
The newest bracelets are of tortoise-shell, some dark, some light. The round of the bracelet is ornamented with subjects in gold, stamped in relief; in the centre of the bracelets are antique heads in Cameos, or paintings in colours on china, called enamel. Sometimes portraits on ivory, or birds formed of feathers by a metallic process. These bracelets open and shut, in the manner of the old necklaces named carcans.
Smelling-bottles of crystal, which ladies now wear suspended from their necks, or to their sash, are covered with gold net-work, through which is seen the colour of the crystal.
A large chain of gold is usually thrown over the neck, to which is fastened a gold key; the head of which is surrounded by turquoises.
In the room of the vinaigrettes which the ladies wore suspended to their neck-chains, there is now a rose of gold, enamelled, or of valuable gems, which opens by a spring. In it is contained some drops of the Otto of Roses, which scent is predicted by the emblem.
MISCELLANEOUS. Instead of carrying the bouquet in the hand, the ladies now pass it through the sash.
High-heeled shoes are about to be introduced; there have already appeared some shoes, with the heel raised in the interior part of the sole, which raises the instep, and is supposed to give grace to the gait. At all events, if the heels continue to be made only in this way, they will not have the ridicule attached to them like those worn by our great grandmothers.
There have been various opinions concerning the colour of Jaune-Vapeur; some affirm, and we think justly, that it takes its name from that lurid kind of smoke, which oft’times issues from steam-machines; and steam being so much in vogue, our linguists have not hesitated in pronouncing it to be steam-yellow. The Parisians, however, affect to have found out, that a celebrated actress, whenever she had the vapours, turned that (now fashionable) colour!
Formerly mourning was laid aside on account of a marriage, or any other important event taking place in a family ; it is now suspended for a ball, a concert, or any extraordinary performance at the theatre.
Half-boots, of a dark colour, generally brown, and very square-toed, are very much in favour; some of these boots button up the front.
There is a goblet, now termed a family-glass, which contains about nine or ten of a moderate size; these are used in rambling {What the English call “gipsying.”} dinners about the country.
Gaiters, of grey gros-de-Naples, are worn with almost every kind of shoe.
For some time pincushions have been made of the most varied and curious forms. They represent small dolls of a grotesque kind, which, stuffed with bran, receive the puncture of a thousand pins. This invention is also seen in portable bells. They are in bronze, in gilding, and of every kind of composition; and which are truly of a very original kind.
Scotch marriages are very fashionable among parties in the country, and in all those meetings which are likely to last a certain time. As many different flowers are collected as there are ladies in the assembly, and they are inclosed in a basket. The same ceremony takes place among the gentlemen. When each of these draws a flower, by chance, it is united to a flower of the same kind.
During all the time of the marriage, the husband submits to all the caprice and will of his wife. ” Sir, order the carriage; hold the bridle of my borriko; teach me to waltz, dance very fast, en galop; please to bring me my shawl, give me a glass of Orgeat, &c. &c.” When the party breaks up, every one regains his liberty.
REQUISITES FOR A FRENCH YOUNG LADY ON HER MARRIAGE.
A gothic kind of coffer is in better taste than what is styled a corbeille. Either corbeille or coffer have a lock which is made secure by a key which the bride has suspended to her chattelaine, or her chain, which is a part of the presents made her on the day her contract is signed.
The trousseau (paraphernalia of the bride,) must not be confounded with the corbeille, (or coffer containing the presents made her) both are separately destined to the personal use of the bride; but the trousseau is furnished by the parents, generally the grandfather and grandmother; the corbeille is offered in homage by the future husband.
The trousseau, by its abundant utility, ought to be estimated above the objects of fashion contained in the corbeille.
As for the trousseau, which is a requisite affair, the father, the mother, the uncles or aunts, and the guardians ought to provide for all that may be wanting; in regard to the corbeille, nothing is required from the future bride-groom, but taste and gallantry.
Whatever dimensions the corbeille may be of, it will not contain all the offerings made; but it will accompany them.
Among the articles surrounding the corbeille of a young bride belonging to one of the higher classes, we remarked:
– A white dress of Chantilly lace, in a pattern, forming stripes, it had two flounces! and was to be worn over white satin, another dress was of rose-coloured satin.
– A cachemire dress, the colour Chinese-green, embroidered in silk of the same colour, shaded: it had a flounce cut in sharp points. The pattern was slight, and of a running kind.
– A dress of Navarin-blue satin, trimmed with a deep flounce of white Chantilly blond, in a very rich pattern.
– The dress to be worn at the altar was of English point-lace.
– A hat of Leghorn, extremely fine, surmounted by two magnificent willow-feathers, of the new kind, appearing like united tassels ; they were white, and hung in different stages, one above the other.
– A hat of bright rose-coloured crape, overshadowed by a willow-feather of the same colour, very large.
– A Grenada-toque with an open crown, ornamented with white ostrich feathers. A cardinal’s hat of Jaune vapour, adorned in the same manner.
– A cap of white blond, a la fiancee, with bows of blond-gauze ribbon, rouleaux of satin and flowers, all blue: the lappets of blond.
– A toque of cherry-coloured gauze, interwoven with gold. A turban of rose-coloured crape, spotted with silver. A beret of Lyonese silk of a fancy kind.
– Three Indian shawls of Cachemire; one en noir arlequin. A scarf of Mecklin-lace.
– Jewels in coloured stones, some engraven, others plain; a set of Scotch pebbles; a comb, necklace and ear-rings, with twelve ears of corn, all in brilliants; with a buckle of the same for a sash.
– A fan of mother-of-pearl. A white purse, embroidered with pearls and polished steel; this should contain some valuable pieces of gold coin : in the purse given to the young French lady recently married, were gold pieces of twenty and forty franks, with which it was filled.
– When a young lady is married, she receives from her husband, a basket filled with flowers, bijouterie, feathers, and other articles of fancy: such is the custom in France. In China, when a young female is betrothed, she finds, at night, in the bridal chamber, thread, cotton, needles, a thimble, and a pair of scissors.
From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons
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