This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of Alt Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.
PLATE THE FIRST. COSTUME OF ALL NATIONS, NO. 40. ANDALUSIA.
The Spanish dresses we have before presented to our readers, were those worn only occasionally by females of the higher classes; we have an opportunity of presenting them with a costume now, worn by ladies of rank and fashion, in the delightful province of Andalusia.
Much intercourse, in time of peace, has been established between this part of Spain and England, ever since we have been firmly and quietly settled at Gibraltar. The ladies dress in a peculiar style, but not exactly Spanish; their costume resembling very much that of France and England; the well marked out waist, and the beautiful leg and foot, every Spanish woman will take care to make the best of; and when she possesses these attractions in an eminent degree, as the females of Spain certainly do, we must not fall out with them for making rather an unusual display of their taper ancles.
Over a slip of white taffety, is worn a dress of Barbary-gauze, handsomely ornamented at the border by a very broad fringe, formed of blue brocaded ribbon, in treillage work; and terminated at the mesh next the shoe by small knots of ribbon. The body is ornamented, downwards, by stripes of narrow blue ribbon, and a narrow black stomacher is worn in front of the waist; from whence depends an apron with a border at the end like that on a scarf, of white brocade, spotted with black. The small pockets, which are usually affixed to our modern aprons, are in this dress on each side of the petticoat; they are ornamented with ruby-coloured ribbons, and the fair Andalusian has a custom, not very graceful, of continually placing her hands on, or in them. The body is made low, and very becomingly so with a full triple falling tucker, in which Spanish points are not forgotten. The sleeves are en jigot, of the same white gauze as the dress, and over them, is the sleeve we call Seduisante, of the same treillage work and colour as the fringe on the skirt. The bracelets, confining the sleeves at the wrists, are of white and gold enamel, intermixed with rubies. The head-dress consists of a very small Spanish hat of black satin, with a beautiful white plumage of Herons’ feathers. Under this hat is worn an elegant cap of blond, en bouffont, the lappels kept in shape by narrow bands across, of white satin, with each a small rosette on the outside; these lappels are confined together at the breast by a small rosette of purple ribbon; below which, is one of white, with a loop, from whence depends a bow of black ribbon, with long ends; this is one of those whimsicalities of fashion, of which we cannot see the use or ornament. Round the throat is a plat of dark hair, with a gold Coeur de Jesus depending. The shoes are of white satin, with silk stockings, brocaded in buskins.
EVENING DRESS.
Over a pink satin slip, a dress of crape of the same colour, finished at the border by a very broad hem, over which are placed, obliquely, wreaths of puffed ribbon, about three shades darker than the dress. The body a la Sevigne, with a very splendid, large brooch, formed of aqua-marinas in the centre of the drapery, across the bust. Short, full sleeves, of white blond over white satin, somewhat shorter. The head-dress consists of a beret of pink satin, with a superb plume of white feathers, under the right side of the brim, which is much elevated; these feathers take a spiral direction towards the crown. The ear-pendants and necklace are of diamonds.
BRIDAL DRESS.
A dress of embroidered tulle over white satin, encircles the pattern stripes of foliage; one very broad flounce ornament finishes the border, headed by cockleshells of white satin, on which is embroidered a fleur de lis; the flounce is edged in a correspondent manner, but with the shells dependent, and from the base of the shell, which is upper-most, branches out delicate foliage, formed of white satin: the corsage is a la Sevigne; but the plain part fitting the waist is so beautifully disposed in bias, that the stripes on the tulle, have a very charming effect. The sleeves are long, excessively wide, a la Mameluke. The Sevigne drapery confined in the centre by a brooch, en girandole, of diamonds, set a l’Antique. The hair is elegantly and becomingly arranged, in curls and bows; or rather one large bow, formed of two light puffs, one near the face, the other approaching the summit of the head. These are divided by an ornamental kind of bandeau of blond, and the head is crowned by orange-flower blossoms on one side, and double garden-poppies, of a lilac colour, on the other. Long lappels of broad blond, depend from each side of the head behind, and fall gracefully over the shoulders. The necklace and ear-rings are of wrought gold and diamonds, with bracelets to suit.
FIG. 1. New sleeve, a la Seduisante, of rich blond; headed next the shoulder by a full rosette of white satin ribbon.
FIG. 2. Back view of the coiffeure of the third figure in “Bridal costume.”
WALKING DRESSES.
A dress of white jacanot muslin, with a broad flounce, the flounce headed by a full cordon, formed of celestial-blue braiding; this flounce is slightly scalloped at the edge, where it is finished with a narrow lace. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by a cuff, with one sharp point, which is trimmed round with the same narrow lace as that at the edge of the flounce. A ruffle of the same is placed next the hand. A canezou fichu of celestial-blue silk, with a brocaded border of blue and white, is worn with this dress, with its short ends drawn through a belt of the same colour; the fichu is bound round the edge with straw-coloured satin; a triple ruff of lace encircles the throat. The hat is of celestial-blue gros de Naples, trimmed with white gauze ribbon with satin stripes, and ornamented in front of the crown, with a bunch of the aspen-tree. A veil of white blond is worn with this hat. The gloves are of lemon-coloured kid, and the half-boots of celestial blue gros de Naples.
SECOND WALKING DRESS.
CENTRE FIGURE. – A pelisse of spring-green watered gros de Naples, fastening down the front of the skirt, under a rouleau; each side of which is ornamented by rosettes of plumb-coloured satin; a rouleau of which colour and material is placed round the border of the skirt, next the shoe. The sleeves are en jigot, and very wide, and are confined at the wrists by broad gold bracelets, splendidly enchased, and ornamented also by intaglios, set round by pearls. A canezou fichu of black blond, is worn over the shoulders, left open in front, discovering the body of the pelisse which is made entirely plain, surmounted at the throat by a very full ruff of blond. The bonnet is of white gros de Naples, trimmed with a profusion of lilac ribbon, striped with spring-green; it ties under the chin, with a large bow of the same ribbon. The half-boots are of plumb-coloured kid.
THIRD WALKING DRESS.
A high dress of steam-yellow-figured gros de Naples, trimmed next the feet, with a simple double rouleau. The body made a la Circassienne, fastened by a rich broach of jewels. The sleeves a la Mameluke, with bracelets of white Vene- tian beads, edged on each sides with gold. The throat encircled by a ruff. Bonnet of pink satin, elegantly trimmed with the same material.
N. B. A bonnet is represented in this plate (a back view) of butter-cup yellow gros de Naples, trimmed with lilac ribbon, and branches of lilac. A broad white blond surrounds the edge of the brim.
WALKING DRESSES. – FIRST DRESS.
A pelisse of apricot-coloured gros de Naples; at the head of the broad hem surrounding the skirt, and down the front where it fastens, are lozenge puffings, each puff edged by extremely narrow silk beading, about two or three shades darker than the pelisse. The body is a la Circassienne, and is confined at the small of the waist by a belt the same as the dress, fastened in front by a gold buckle. Sleeves a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by a Manchette cuff. Pointed mancherons are placed over the sleeves, on each shoulder. The pelisse is made without cape or collar, and is surmounted by a very full ruff of fine lace. The bonnet is of spring-green gros de Naples, trimmed with a variegated ribbon of straw-colour and bright geranium. On the straw-coloured part are clouds of green and geranium; a few puffs of the same colour and material as the bonnet are mingled with the bows of ribbon on the crown. Half-boots of kid, the colour of the pelisse, complete the costume.
SECOND WALKING DRESS.
A high dress of celestial-blue Levantine or tabinet, with a broad hem round the border, headed by a rich fringe of silk. The body made plain to fit the shape, with very wide sleeves a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by gold bracelets. A double pelerine is worn with this dress, as an out-door appendage, finished at each edge by a fringe corresponding with that over the hem on the skirt; this pelerine is surmounted by a ruff of blond. The hat is of white gros de Naples, ornamented with blond and the yellow flower called “Soloman’s Seal,” with green foliage. A veil of white blond is added, and a splendid throat-scarf, with long ends, depending to the feet is worn; it is of the Cachemire white, with the ends richly brocaded in various colours, and finished by a deep fringe the colour of the scarf. This dress is fitted to the morning exhibitions, &c.
HALF-LENGTH FIGURES.
No. 1. – A dress of striped muslin, the ground, canary-yellow, with stripes of ethereal blue. A canezou of muslin, trimmed with lace, and without sleeves, is worn with this dress, the sleeves of which are a la Mameluke. The waist is encircled by a belt of blue ribbon, fastened in front with an oblong buckle of gold. The canezou, which has a pelerine-cape, surmounted by a lace ruff, ties in front, with a rosette of blue ribbon. The hat is of white gros d’ Ete, striped with blue, and is trimmed with bows of white gauze ribbon, and ornamented with bouquets of the leaves of the pine-apple.
No. 2. – A back view of an opera dress of pink crape, with blond full, short sleeves, ornamented at the shoulders with bows of white satin ribbon. Hat of pink crape, or of satin, with a white feather under the brim, taking its direction to the crown, which is slightly trimmed with white gauze ribbon.
FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.
FIG. 1. – A back view of the hat on the second Walking-Dress, crowned with double pink garden poppies.
FIG. 2. – Back view of the hat on No. 1. Half-length figure. The hat all white, with a full-blown rose added to the pine-leaves.
A MORNING DRESS.
A dress of white organdy, with a broad hem round the border, above which are bouquets of variously-coloured flowers embroidered in crewels; a canezou of tulle, worked in a corresponding manner, forms the corsage, which is confined round the waist by a belt of Pomona-green satin, with a Chatelaine chain and key of gold; the belt fastens by a gold buckle in front. The mancherons on the sleeves are formed of points embroidered in colours, and edged with narrow lace, over which is a very narrow rouleau of Pomona-green satin. A cuff confines the sleeve at the wrist, which cuff is pointed, and on it is worked a small bouquet of flowers in different colours. An elegant blond cap is worn with this dress, lightly ornamented with scrolls of white satin and various small flowers; and broad strings of white striped gauze ribbon float over the shoulders.
AN EVENING DRESS.
A dress of oiseau de Paradis satin, ornamented at the border by two rows of white gauze bouillones; over which are placed across, in bias, trimmings of amber-silk, representing foliage: the upper bouillone is headed by silk cordon of the same colour as the foliage ornaments; and, at equal distances, are seen, dependant from the cordon, two superb tassels. The body is made plain, with a very deep falling tucker of rich blond. The sleeves very short, and a tassel descends from the shoulder to the elbow; two tassels, also, ornament the front of the bust, from a cordon which heads the tucker. The coiffeure consists of a dress hat of white crape, with a superb plumage of white feathers, playing over it in every direction. A large rosette of white gauze figured ribbon is placed next the hair, under the brim on the right side. The necklace and ear-pendants are of gold. The bracelets of gold and enamel in different colours; two on each wrist. The shoes of white satin, with very small bows.
A MORNING DRESS.
A dress of white jaconot muslin, with a very broad hem, headed by a beautiful fringe, with the upper part in open work. Above the fringe is a row of embroidery. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, with an embroidered cuff at the wrist, surmounted by a full ruffle-frill of muslin, with a narrow lace edging. An embroidered fichu-shawl, trimmed round with lace, is worn with this dress; the ends drawn through a belt of white gros de Naples, on which is painted a wreath of blue flowers. The hat is of Barbel-blue crape, trimmed with broad ribbon of the same colour, white blond, and bracelets of white lilac.
N. B. A back view of the hat above described.
A fashionable cap of blond, – a back view, – trimmed with Barbel-blue ribbon.
NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR JUNE, 1829.
Though the Spring has been somewhat backward, we may now venture to pronounce the Winter to have completely passed away: London is, however, a scene of gaiety and splendour. Balls and grand evening parties still continue, though their reign will now be but short; the Royal Academy of Paintings, and the various morning exhibitions are thronged with the most distinguished members of rank and fashion; the taste and elegance of whose dress it has been our task to investigate, as it is now to present the result of our observations to our numerous patronesses.
For these morning lounges, and for the retired home afternoon costume, we have much admired a high dress of lavender-coloured Norwich-crape; it is bordered by one broad flounce, in sharp points, bound by black satin, and headed by three narrow black satin rouleaux, and bows the same material and colour as the dress, bound round in bias by black satin. The body fastens in front en pelisse, with a falling square collar, partially pointed, and bound with black satin. The sleeves fit almost tight to the arm, and have a chemisette-sleeve-Mancheron, and at the wrists a gauntlet-cuff. A belt incircles the waist the same as the dress, and is bound in a manner corresponding with the other trimmings. One of the newest evening dresses is of white crepe-Aerophane over white satin: two very broad bias folds surround the border of the skirt, headed by white satin rouleaux: the corsage is ornamented across the top of the bust, en Chevrons, by satin rouleaux, and pointed at the base of the waist; which, as well as the Chevrons, is finished, by beautiful blond. The sleeves are en jigot, with a broad gauntlet cuff of white satin, ornamented by a row of very small gold Almeida buttons, set very close together in bias, on the outside of the cuff. For the other novelties in the gown department we refer our readers to our engravings for June Fashions.
For the out-door costume a very beautiful Summer cloak for the open carriage, has just been completed at Mrs. Bell’s tasteful Magazin de Modes in Cleveland Row. This cloak is of gros de Naples of a bright jonquil, and is lined with white sarcenet; it envelops, while it sets off the shape, and is devoid of all ornament. A pelisse of emerald-green Indian reps silk is equally admired; it is ornamented down each side of the bust, and where it closes in front of the skirt, with green satin, in zig-zag. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, with a gauntlet cuff, terminating in a point towards the upper part of the arm, where there is an ornament representing a fleur de lis, in narrow rouleaux of green satin. A narrow cape collar, in Castillan points, falls over from the throat.
Among the new hats and bonnets is qne of the latter, formed of plaided silk, the ground of which is fawn, with chequers of pink and black satin, formed of very narrow stripes, is trimmed with a rich broad ribbon of dark chocolate brown, edged on one side with a green satin stripe, on the other with blue. Scrolls of the same material as the bonnet ornament the crown, interspersed with the ribbon above mentioned, and tropic birds; feathers, of pink and yellow, complete the embellishments. A rose-coloured satin bonnet, figured in lozenge-diamonds, is of a shape less becoming than the one before described; this is extremely evase; but is filled up by a trimming under the brim, of gauze ribbons striped with black, blue, and yellow. The bows on the bonnet, and the loop-strings are pink with a stripe of yellow, clouded with blue. A small, pink, spiral feather, finishes the trimming. A very elegant bonnet is of white gros de Naples, with broad stripes across, the colour of the Parma-violet: it is very tastefully trimmed with ornaments of the same, bound with Canary-yellow: the bows are of gauze ribbon; a Spring green, striped with white and green satin. A very handsome carriage bonnet is of etherial-blue satin, with a quilling of blond under the brim, next the hair. At the edge are placed, beneath two Esprits, that on the right side, rose colour and white, on the left, white and yellow; the bonnet is bound at the edge by a plaid ribbon, the chequers of very lively colours on a white ground; the bows and strings are of straw-coloured ribbon beautifully clouded with bark-brown, rose-colour, and violet. A most superb plumage of blue, curled feathers, plays over the crown and brim.
A blue net beret-turban is of a novel and truly elegant shape; it is laid in fluted folds, and next the hair, is placed, on one side, an esprit feather of straw-colour. On the opposite side, and nearer the summit, is another feather of the same colour, representing the tail of the bird-of-Paradise, which gracefully depends over towards the shoulder. A turban of pink satin and crape, in the turkish form, is elegantly ornamented with white Marabouts, in various directions. Berets are of white crape, with a bow of satin ribbon, cut in fringe at the ends, tailing over the left side of the hair, under, the brim. A superb plumage of white flat Ostrich feathers finishes this head-dress. The blond caps have experienced but little alteration since last month; one for half dress is of beautifully figured gauze; black, with pink figures. It is adorned with pink Canterbury-bells, in bouquets, and pink gauze ribbons, striped with black. A favourite cap for home costume, a la fiancee, is of rich white blond and tulle, and is trimmed with jonquille-coloured gauze, and rouleaux of satin ribbon of the same tint.
A beautiful article for dresses has just appeared; the ground of some chaste, unobtruding colour, with satin stripes of the same on gros de Naples, between the stripes are heart’s-eases, of every different colour, brocaded.
The colours most admired are stone-colour, lavender, jonquille, rose-colour, etherial-blue, and emerald-green.
GREASE SPOTS. The following method of removing grease and oil spots from silk and other articles, without injury to the colours, is given in the Journal des Connaisances Usuelles: Take the yolk of an egg and put a little of it on the spot, then place over it a piece of white linen, and wet it with boiling water: rub the linen with the hand, and repeat the process three or four times, at each time applying fresh boiling water: the linen is to be then removed, and the part thus treated is to be washed with clean cold water.
NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.
HATS AND BONNETS. – The most elegant hats are generally seen finished at the edge of the brims by a very broad blond, as broad as a quarter and half-quarter of an ell, which forms a demi-veil. Several chip hats are so ornamented. Feathers of cherry-colour recline gracefully over the brim. On Leghorn hats, one simple branch of flowers falls on one side, or one large flower, accompanied by a slight portion of foliage. The strings, which tie the hats under the chin, are edged with blond en ruche; bonnets of blue or steam-coloured gros de Naples, are very shallow in the crown; it is rather round, and the edge is bordered with blond; these bonnets are extremely pretty. There are some of straw-colour, also, lined with pink, and ornamented with roses; others in white crape, with coloured linings, and trimmed with ribbons and flowers of suitable shades to the lining. Two hats have been seen, entirely made of blond, divided by bands of satin. Those of coloured crape are ornamented by branches of lilacs. Some hats, of fine Leghorn or white chip, have no ribbons, but are embellished by two birds of paradise; a simple ribbon fastens these hats, which are exclusively worn by women of the first fashion, under the chin. A branch of white camelia is a favourite ornament on a white chip hat; it is placed obliquely, from the summit of the crown on the left side, and is brought to the edge of the brim on the right. Several hats of yellow or of lilac crape have been seen at the Marchandes des Modes, ornamented with hyacinths of various colours, fixed at the base of the crown, in front. For white chip hats, the favourite flower is the poppy, either single or double, with three or four buds; at the base of the flower is always a rosette of gauze ribbon. Among other hat-ornaments is the variegated laurel. Another is the canary-bell-flower, the chalice of which blows out like a puff.
In general, both the chip and Leghorn hats, are smaller than they were last summer; but the flowers now that ornament them are voluminous; such, for example, as a large branch of pine, chesnut-tree, and from other large trees When a poppy is placed on one side of a white chip hat, it is not unusual to add to it a branch of green heath and a large full-blown rose. The ribbon trimming consists of two separate bows; one, very full, is placed on the summit of the, on one side, and the other, having only two loops on the brim, on the opposite side. The inside of the brim s ornamented with bows, blond, and leaves, cut out of ribbons. Some strings are worn fastened to the crown, and are passed through sliders on the brim, and tie under the chin. Several hats are trimmed with blond, which crosses the front of the crown, and is supported by branches of flowers; it terminates on each side of the brim, where the slider is fixed for the strings to pass through. Among some of the most elegant hats, may be cited one of fine straw, lined with blue crape, and ornamented by five feathers, half blue and half straw-colour. Hats of rose-coloured crape are surrounded by a broad blond. One bow of gauze ribbon is added to a branch of heath, which falls like a weeping-willow over the brim. Several hats of crape, or of Gros de Naples, of steam-colour, are adorned with flowers and blue ribbons; the flowers are red.
There are two shapes very distinct in the Leghorn hats: those a la Francais, are short at the ears; those a l’Anglaise, are, on the contrary, very long: a poppy, with buds, forms the trimming on the first; on the latter, it is a branch of whitethorn, slightly bent. Instead of flowers, large bows of ribbon are sometimes placed over the brims of some Leghorn hats, spread out at a distance from each other, like a fan. Almost all the hats of gros de Naples are edged with a broad blond. Some ladies place on a yellow or a lilac hat, a black blond, and a green blond on a rose-coloured hat.
A new way of ornamenting white chip hats under the brims, consists in taking a ribbon with satin stripes, then twisting it, and afterwards disposing it in puffs; this row of puffing goes from one string to the other.
Some hats, the crowns of which are of spotted gauze, have the brims entirely of blond, or of ribbon and blond. These brims are supported by means of wired ribbon, concealed under narrow rouleaux of satin.
Green, either in ribbons or flowers, is the most fashionable colour for Leghorn hats. Poppies, heath, young fir, all are green.
In elegant deshabille, the bonnets are of fancy straw, striped or chequered; they are lined with white, or with coloured gros de Naples.
OUT-DOOR-COSTUME. – Muslin canezous are very universal over silk dresses, or a pelerine the same as the dress.
The riding-habits are made long, especially behind; they are often of violet colour, with the corsage of velvet; the buttons wrought in or mat.
Some riding-habits have appeared of lapis-blue cloth, with silver buttons, set on in the hussar style. The collars and lappels of riding-dresses resemble those on a man’s coat. The cravat is white, and the shirt collar, also, has the same masculine appearance. The shirt is laid in large plaits, and is fastened by five buttons in gold enamel.
The Ibis is now seen to triumph over the boa tippets; this bird, so sacred to the Egyptians, is now beautifully imitated in painting and embroidery on summer shawls of slight texture, which bear the title of that bird with which they are ornamented; and we need not doubt but what it will possess, under the empire of beauty, that power which it enjoyed during the time of the Pharoahs. Under the folds of the boas, an allegory easy to comprehend, commanded their admirers to fly from them; the serpent was reposing on flowers; but the shining plumage of the mysterious bird, gives to them an additional charm, and if it inspires for them a respect less profound than heretofore, it is yet still more capable of establishing their power by affording them that of gaining discretion from a law so inviolable to the initiated of former ages; for, when Cambyses usurped Egypt, Peluse was about to open its gates, but desisted at the sight of some of these birds, which interposed between him and the enemy, and such was the respect and veneration which they inspired, that for fear of wounding them or only terrifying them during the attack, the Egyptians remained inactive and the town was taken.
Several summer shawls have been invented to satisfy Parisian caprice; amongst which are the Egyptian and Tartarian shawls. Some of real cachemire have also recently arrived.
Pelerines, the colour of the dress, are trimmed with the same fringe as appears round the border. The richest kind is the corded fringe; they are excessively broad.
A favourite dress for the public walks is one of cambric, with two pelerines, each edged with a narrow mechlin lace.
DRESSES. – The sleeves a l’Amadis are much in vogue, with a short full sleeve underneath, and a narrow ruffle at the wrist. Some of the sleeves yet continue very wide, but this fullness terminates just above the elbow, where it is confined, and the rest sits close to the arm. White sleeves are worn with silk dresses and with coloured muslins, canezous in muslin or tulle prevail much, the former are embroidered in feather-stitch. The trimming of the epaulettes and of the pelerines descends very low over the sleeves, and has the effect of a small sleeve; double ruffles are worn at the wrists; one falls over the hand, the other stands up next the arm. Broad hems are the favourite borders to the skirts, the only novelty is in the narrow heads above the hem. Yet the most eminent dress-makers continue to make gowns with deep flounces, especially on those of muslin. The most original mode shews itself in Canezous of Organdy, or white muslin embroidered with coloured crewel. There has also appeared a canezou-fichu of coloured gros de Naples; these fichus are worn with white dresses. The number of dresses trimmed with fringe, with the head of the fringe curiously wrought, increases daily.
The corsages are almost all made plain; those with a point are no longer worn. Gowns for dress parties have all drapery across the bust. The white canezous, which are embroidered in coloured crewel, are worn over a petticoat of the same colour as the embroidery. Dresses of gros de Naples have often a pelerine the same as the gown, trimmed with a broad fringe, a row of which ornaments the border and ascends as high as the knee. The sleeves a la Mameluke, with broad plaited cuffs. The sashes are of very broad ribbon, the same colour as the dress, without ends, and fastened behind by a gold buckle.
The dresses are made so short in front, that the stocking is seen above the half-boot, or the gaiter.
Ball dresses are bordered with one or two flounces of Chantilly blond, and with rouleaux of the same colour, but not of the same texture as the dress; they are of satin, when the dresses are tulle, or crape, or gauze. Two or three of these rouleaux, separated from each other, the space between about as wide as the rouleau, or double the breadth, are placed just below the knee, then repeated in an equal number, but near a foot distant from the others.
Instead of these rouleaux, the dress of a lady was seen ornamented with silver lama on Navarin-blue. The belt and the drapery of the corsage were also interwoven with silver. A cherry-coloured ball-dress had a gold ornament
about a hand’s breadth, above the knees. White Organdy dresses are trimmed with a broad satin ribbon, in the middle of which is a gold stripe; the sash is the same but narrower. Beret sleeves are covered with blond en oreilles d’ elephant; or the sleeves are trimmed with puffs of ribbon to answer those of the sash. Several dresses are seen of lilac gros de Naples, or of Indian-green, or salmon colour, striped with cordons of flowers. The dress-makers continue to make the gowns very short in front, a little longer at the sides, and long behind. Painted silks are worn in full dress, in bouquets; a glazed gros de Naples is of the changeful and beautiful colour of the turtle dove’s neck; a dress of mass muslin, with white canezou, promises to be in high favour this summer. Amongst the new materials for summer dresses is Indian long cloth, with gothic patterns, which have a wonderfully pleasing effect. A new material has also been displayed, called Abureerrage; but is one of those articles with which we are pleased, we know not why.
Balls have taken place again, a short time ago, at which were remarked some very pretty dresses. One was of white crape, and above the broad hem at the border, were placed ears of green corn, at separate distances; the stalks and beards of the corn were delicately worked in silk, while each grain was formed of a green bead, which being oblong, caused a beautiful effect.
Every lady of fashion now wears white muslin ruffles, beautifully embroidered; sometimes the ruffle is at the edge of the wristband of the long sleeve, and at others, the ruffle is placed above, as a trimming; a kind of weeper, also, is worn, about half a quarter of an ell in breadth.
HEAD-DRESSES. Berets and turbans are of coloured or white crape, spotted with gold or silver.
Under the article of ball-dresses we mentioned a dress ornamented with ears of corn in green beads: the classical coiffeure adopted with this costume, consisted of emerald ears of corn, intermingled with those of diamonds.
JEWELLERV. Bracelets are declining in favour , Chatelaines are expected to be worn all the summer. The most distinguished are in enamel, and they are made to correspond with the chain worn round the neck.
A ring of tortoise-shell is much in favour, with the following motto: “Tant qu’il durera. These rings are called a Caprice.
MISCELLANEOUS. Half-boots are universally worn. They are of gros de Naples, of every colour. The stockings most in favour are of Scotch thread. The shoes are all square-toed, without bows, and sometimes without sandal-strings.
The new parasols are all fringed.
The Boa-tippets seem to be in great danger: it is in vain that Golconda and Brazil have furnished these powerful talismans; in vain Flanders and India, Lyons and England have offered their most beautiful tissues, diamonds, scarfs, blonds and lace; all is now eclipsed, all are obscured under the overwhelming windings of the over-ruling reptile. Sinking under the most painful efforts, fatigued by the long reign of the boas that the approach of summer commands us to annihilate, the genius of fashion has itself furnished the arms which will destroy this too lasting a predilection, in the Ibis now so much the rage.
There are no longer seen shoes fastened to the gaiters. The most fashionable ladies wear half-boots, all of the same material; the shoe-part is marked out by a silk cordon.
From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons
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