This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.
COSTUMES OF ALL NATIONS. NO. 37. – QUEEN ELIZABETH (centre figure).
In this truly majestic costume, out of the great variety of habits possessed by the Virgin Queen, did this extraordinary and highly-gifted female, receive her foreign guests of distinction, and the ambassadors from different courts; it was in such a guise, perhaps, that she, at once, trifled with, feigned to accept, and, at length, jilted the youthful Anjou, when past the age of forty herself, even when the pledge of exchanged rings were given, and the prince regarded her as his betrothed wife. In a dress somewhat similar to this, the beautiful lady of our present ambassador to France, appeared very lately at a splendid fancy ball given by her Royal Highness MADAME.
Over a petticoat of white satin, richly trimmed, en falbalas, with fine point lace, is a velvet robe of royal purple, embroidered with gold, and faced and bordered with ermine; this robe had drapery sleeves of the same, very much like those, newly designated by the name of Spanish draperies; these were lined with satin of a bright yellow, and edged round with ermine. The sleeves were precisely en jigot, and were of white satin, over which was a network in diamonds, formed of narrow white satin ribbon; and within each diamond was a single precious stone ; these were an emerald, a topaz, and a ruby: the bust was cruelly confined by very tight and stiff stays, which concealed and destroyed all its contour. Foreign writers have spoken concerning this queen going “bare-necked;” but what little Elizabeth discovered of her neck, would not be indecorous at any age. The stomacher to the body of her velvet robe was superb; it was shaped out by a row of very large pearls, and was of white satin, with net-work to correspond with that of the sleeves ; but the stomacher net-work was of pearls; and in the centre of each diamond was a small rosace, composed of the same valuable materials, or sometimes of diamonds. Her regal head-dress was a cap of purple velvet, surmounted by a sovereign’s crown, in outline, of large oriental pearls, with the cross of gold. The base of the crown surrounded by point lace, on which was a row of sapphires. The border of the cap was of that kind which obtained the appellation of Mary Stuart’s; but it might as well have been styled Mary Tudor’s, for that sister of Elizabeth wore this kind of cap, we believe, before the unfortunate Queen of Scots was born. The border of the cap was set with jewels. The ruff of Elizabeth’s own invention, and which still bears her name, was of rich point lace, and was bordered by gold and jewels; these kind of ruffs were not only very stiffly starched, but were set out with wires. A necklace of very large pearls, in two rows, with a diamond cross, completed the dress.
Elizabeth was never known to bestow any dress on her attendants; when she died, upwards of a thousand different kinds of gowns, and costumes of every nation, filled the wardrobe.
A tunique satin pelisse of sage-leaf-green, with a very broad Witzchoura border of ermine, discovering a small portion, next the shoe, of the skirt underneath; down each side in front of the pelisse, which is left slightly open, are two rows of ermine. The corsage is made plain, and concealed by a fichu-pelerine, the same as the pelisse, edged round with ermine . The sleeves en jigot, and very wide; confined at the wrist by a broad cuff of ermine. A belt, of a novel kind, is worn round the waist; it is elastic, and in colour suits the pelisse. From the front are three splendid cordon ornaments, fastened by oval buckles of gold to the belt: these are of sage-leaf-green, and are entwined with flat silk braiding, two shades darker; three superb tassels of this latter shade terminate the cordons, and depend as low as the top of the Witzchoura border. The bonnet is of bright gold-coloured gros des Indes, trimmed and lined with pink.
Over a white satin slip is worn dress of beautifully figured tulle, en colonnes; with two deep flounces of blond, in a pattern corresponding with the stripes on the skirt. The body made tight to the shape, with a collar en paladin, surrounding the bust, which is very low, and falling off the shoulders. The sleeves are short, and are formed of rows of tulle falling over each other, and finished at the edges with quillings of narrow blond; from the shoulders depend two rich tassels of white silk, and form elegant ornaments on the sleeves. The waist is encircled by a friar’s belt of silk cordon, with superb tassels at the end, depending just above the upper flounce. Over the gloves, on the right wrist, are two bracelets; that next the hand consisting of two rows of turquoise-stones; that above, of the same stones, and of wrought gold, clasped by a large torquoise. On the left wrist is a simple row of larger torquoise-stones, easily unclasped, for the left finger to receive the golden fetter of marriage. The hair is beautifully and becomingly arranged in curls on each side of the face, and in bows of hair on the summit of the head. A long veil of fine white blond is tastefully fastened on the hair, and floats over the figure behind, nearly as low as the ancles: the ornaments on the hair are two bouquets of orange-flowers, with their foliage. The ear-pendants are of gold, and the necklace of finely wrought gold, separated by the small flowers “forget me not,” formed of turquoise-stones and gold; these beautiful ornaments arc placed at equal distances, looping together the chain-work of the wrought gold. In the centre of the paladin-collar, surrounding the bust, is a handsome brooch in the shape of a Maltese Cross, of large torquoise- stones set in gold.
A dress of tulle over white gros de Naples, with a deep flounce round the border, edged by two rows of chain-work, formed of pink satin rouleaux: this flounce is headed in the same manner, and has the appearance of being confined down to the dress. The corsage is made plain, with a very broad falling tucker of blond, confined in the centre by a row of pink satin chain-work. The sleeves short and very full, with a narrow pink satin band round the arm. A pointed belt a la Cordeliere, encircles the waist, with one end composed of large balls of woven silk, ending in a very superb tassel; this belt is pink. The hair is arranged in the new Parisian style, extending on one side very much beyond the face, and on the other in massy ringlets: the Apollo-knot, formed of a very broad plat, and coming very near the forehead. A profusion of flowers, consisting of yellow rockets, tuberoses, full-blown red roses, blue China-astres, and a few small field-flowers, complete the coiffeure. The necklace is formed of two rows of pearls, with three pear-pearls in the centre.
BALL, OR EVENING DRESS.
A dress of celestial -blue crape, with a border formed of scrolls, in rideaux– drapery of blue satin; each upheld and ornamented by full wreaths of blue and white flowers. Over the top of this border are notched ornaments, each doubled so as to form a point, and edged round by narrow black satin ribbon. The corsage is a la Circassienne, confined by a sash, with long broad ends, finely painted on a ground of blue, with ears and leaves of the Indian corn. A bouquet of tuberoses is placed in the left side of this sash. The sleeves are short, with cleft mancherons of blue crape, edged with narrow Vandyck–blond, a row of which surrounds the arm at the termination of the sleeve: between the clefts of the mancherons are small blue and white flowers. The hair is arranged a la Madonna, entirely without curls, and the braids on each side of the face, with the knot on the summit of the head, appear as one large bow of four loops. In the centre is a white China-astre, red in the middle, and on the left side a spiral aigrette formed of red and green foliage ; on the right side a half wreath, terminating at the back of the head, of one row of blue flowers, the “forget-me-not.” The ear-pendants are small, and of jet; and the necklace is formed of a single chain of jet. The bracelets on the right hand are of sapphires, set a l’antique; over this is a single row of jet beads. On the left hand are two narrow bracelets of pearls.
FASHIONABLE HEAD DRESSES.
FIG. 1. Evening Coiffeure. – The hair arranged in the Parisian style, with a few ringlets at the nape of the neck a l’Enfant. The hair extending wide on each side, and a broad plat crossing over near the forehead to the back of the head; the summit of which is ornamented with a large full-blown rose, white hyacinths, ears of Indian corn, and small field-flowers, mixed with ears of barley. Two butterflies are seen hovering over these flowers.
Fig. 2. Another head-dress for the evening party. – The hair arranged in the modern Greek style, with a bandeau of twisted beads across the forehead. Bows of ponceau-gauze ribbons, figured with black, ornament the head.
FIG. 3. – Hair arranged a la Sappho, the clusters of curls next the face more full than that antique head dress. Puffs of celestial-blue gauze, entwined with pearls, ornament this coiffeure. [For a front view of this coiffure, as well as the publication that it was stolen from, see Journal des Dames et des Modes, 20th of January 1829]
FIG. 4. – The hair, forming a head dress, composed of curls, parted on the forehead, and flowing in full ringlets down each side of the face. The Apollo ornament on the summit of the head much elevated, and ornamented in front, at the base, with cerulean-blue gauze, enriched by strings of pearls.
FIG. 5. – Back view of the same head dress, with pink gauze, and antique Grecian fillets at the back of the head, in pearls.
A dress of white crape, delicately painted above the broad hem round the border, in a pattern of vine-leaves and their tendrils. The body is made rather full, and something in the style a l’Enfant, but lower in the front of the bust, and at the shoulders; the tucker part surrounded by a falling frill of blond, rather narrow, headed by three very narrow rouleaux of vine-leaf green satin; in front appears, underneath a slight portion of a chemisette tucker, of the finest lace on lawn. The sleeves are short, plain, and full, and are confined by three rouleaux of green satin round the arm, terminated by a narrow ruffle of blond. The turban worn with this dress is of ponceau gauze, checquered with black, and ornamented with short ponceau feathers. The ear-pendants are of amethysts, and the bracelets of gold and cameos.
A dress of white crape, with a flounce in full quillings, en dents de loups, edged with a narrow rouleaux of green, of an olive tinge. Over this flounce, and lying on it, are embossed green satin leaves, of the water-lily. The corsage is made plain, and tight to the shape, with a narrow tippet, en Paladin, cleft at each shoulder, and edged with a very narrow blond, headed by a satin rouleau of the same green as that on the edge of the flounce. The sleeves are short and very full. The hair is dressed a la Naide; across the forehead is a bandeau formed of three strings of pearls, and placed obliquely. On the summit of the head, where the hair is much raised, are placed aquatic flowers, amongst which the Indian lotos, or water-lily of the East is most conspicuous.
Over this dress is thrown a white swan’s-down tippet, tinged with pink, of the long, round kind. The ear-pendants are large and long, and are of finely chased gold.
A pelisse of satin, the colour of the Parma-violet, with a tablier kind of ornament, in velvet, of the same colour; this is narrow at the base of the waist, extending gradually as it reaches the feet, and is notched at the edges in the antique Paracenic style; a fichu pelerine, finished in the same manner, and of the same material, covers the bust in front, and falls over the tops of the shoulders. The sleeves a la Mameluke, with a very tight velvet cuff, notched like the pelerine, &c. A blond ruff encircles the throat, tied in front with a bow of emerald-green satin ribbon. A hat of black velvet is fastened down by a blond mentonniere, tied on the right side by emerald green ribbon, and under the brim is an ornament representing leaves, grouped together, of the same colour, in satin, puckerings of which adorn the crown of the hat, with a bow of very long loops, of green ribbon, placed on the right side of the summit. A long gold chain, of large links, is thrown over the bust, with a watch or an eye-glass depending; and some ladies wear the French ornament called a chatelaine, at the side of the belt; this is of gold, with medallions, &c., and keys, seals, and other trifles are suspended to it. A reticule of emerald green velvet, slightly embroidered in gold, is carried in the left hand.
FIG. 1. – Back view of the head-dress in hair, a la Naide.
FIG. 2. – Bonnet for the Morning Walk; of black velvet, trimmed with ruby satin ribbon, strings of which float loose.
A pelisse of black, Indian reps silk, with a very broad hem round the border, headed by a narrow rouleau of silver grey satin; down each side of the skirt in front, placed on in the Bavarian style, are ornaments of separate leaves depending, of the same colour and material as the pelisse, edged round with silver grey ; at the base of each is a gold button. The body is made tight to the shape, and ornamented with black Brandenburghs; and fastened across the waist by a belt, with three gold buttons. The sleeves are full, plain, and in the gigot form. A beautiful Thibet shawl-scarf is thrown over this dress, in elegant drapery; it is of a bright etherial blue, with a broad, and elegant border at the ends, of large palm leaves, delicately wrought in bright and varied colours, and terminated by a deep rich fringe. The bonnet is of white, watered gros de Naples, trimmed with the same, en feuillages, edged with blond: this bonnet is ornamented under the brim, on the right side, with a plaiting of blond, broad, and appearing like the border of a small cap, underneath: on the opposite side are two loops of broad, white, striped gauze ribbon, strings of which tie the bonnet close down. Boots of silver grey kid complete the dress.
A dress of the lightest shade of lavender satin; at the border a full trimming of crepe-lisse of the same colour, bouillone; this is headed by two narrow rouleaux of satin, two shades darker; embossed jagged leaves falling over the top of the bouillon, and the rouleaux surmounted by bows of the dark lavender in satin. The corsage made quite plain, and tight to the shape. The tucker part sur- rounded by a double frill of white crepe Aerophane, edged with narow satin rouleaux of lavender, of which colour and material, are small detached leaves ornamenting the frill. The sleeves are of white crepe Aerophone, a la Mameluke, and confined at the wrists by broad, gold bracelets fastened by a cameo. Round the waist is a simple belt, to correspond with the dress ; and on the right side depends a chatelaine of gold, with a watch, small key, essence box, and other trifles. The dress hat is of white velvet, trimmed with blond and white satin, and crowned with a light and elegant plumage of white feathers. From the left aide depend three long lappets of white gauze ribbon.
FIG. 1. Evening Coiffeure. The hair elegantly arranged in full curls on each side of the face, with a small bow of hair on the summit of the head; behind which are two loops of pink gauze ribbon. A plumage of pink feathers, with a bandeau of gold across the forehead, having a medallion in the centre, complete the head-dress.
FIG. 2. – Back view of the same style of Coiffeure, with white plumage.
FIG. 3. – Cap for Home Costume. A cap of blond, with very broad border, finished in points, and turned back; next the hair, in front, are three loops of very broad gauze ribbon, of a lavender colour; two of which adorn the summit of the crown, and strings of the same ribbon float over each shoulder.
FIG. 4. – A back view of a similar cap, trimmed with a ribbon of vine leaf green.
FIG. 5. – Back view of an Opera Hat. A hat of white velvet, richly ornamented with tulle, blond, and white satin. An elegant plume of white feathers plays over the crown, in front. Long strings of white gauze ribbon float over the shoulders.
NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR MARCH, 1829.
Conversation now no longer languishes in our polite circles; all is animation, all is energy in this first of cities: while the gentlemen are discussing politics, their wives and daughters are expatiating on those artists whose charming works adorn the walls of the British Institution; on those of the new singers at the Italian Opera, the latest select evening party, and all the glories of the great world.
Fashion and her changes form a never failing theme; our authentic information on this important subject, enables us to present a true statement of female attire to the inspection of those who rank high in her train, yet reside much on their estates in the country, where we have the advantage of being able to boast of many kind and generous patronesses, as well as in the sister kingdoms.
The few novelties, however, which have appeared, relate to the evening and dinner party; in out-door costume, it is not likely, during the present uncertain time of the season to bear any very decided feature: in the first place, therefore, we hasten to describe what peculiarly struck us; which was a dress for an evening party, of a remarkably bright scarlet gros de Naples, bordered by two deep flounces, set on in Chevron-festoons, Vandyked at the edges, and trimmed with a broad layer of satin, the same colour as the dress, placed at about half an inch from the edge. The body was a la Circassienne, with the drapery of scarlet crape. Long sleeves of white crepe lisse are worn over short ones of white satin, with Persian draperies of scarlet gauze, bound round with satin, in narrow bias. A cuff terminates the sleeve at the wrist, with a very conspicuous point on the outside of the arm, of scarlet silk elegantly painted in various colours. Dresses of red, either crimson, ponceau, Chinese-rose, or ruby, are much in favour; they are of gros de Naples, velvet or satin. The corsages are much cut away from the shoulders ; and long sleeves are more capacious than ever ; the short sleeves are also very wide.
Coloured velvet dresses, trimmed with white blond, are much admired : the corsages have drapery, which is generally of gauze or crape, and, is either in the Circassian or the Sevigne style.
We have seen a very beautiful bonnet of black satin, figured en Arabesques, it is tastefully trimmed with black blond about the crown, and with pink ribbon, chequered with black, and edged on each side with yellow satin stripes, on which are clouds of black. The strings are in a loop. A favorite bonnet for the carriage is of myrtle green gros de Naples, lined with canary-yellow; and ornamented on the crown with fers de Cheval, in scrolls of myrtle-green, lined with yellow and with black blond: this bonnet is adorned with three plumes formed of the tails of the bird of paradise in green and yellow, separated by bows of ribbon, corresponding in colour with the silk of the bonnet.
Among the new coiffeures is the Spanish-Cardinal-Beret. of bright ruby Indian reps silk ; this head-dress so strikingly elegant, is bound round the edge of the brim with gold lace : the crown is in treillage work; and is composed of ruby satin and gold. From the separation in front, over the forehead, depend two superb-tassels of gold, which fall over the left temple, and a beautiful white plumage plays over, and finishes this magnificent beret. A most elegant dress cap of blond, for evening parties or dinners of ceremony, is among the striking novelties of the present day. The blond is of the richest and finest texture and is disposed in fan ornaments, lightly falling over each other ; the crown is open in treillage work, and is of white satin and silver lama, a bandeau of which crosses the forehead, and is of beautiful workmanship: over this splendid cap are tastefully scattered, in separate flowers, a profusion of the Summer-rose, in full bloom. A turban of pink satin and crape, classically folded, is another new article among the coiffeure department; it is infinitely becoming, though large, and is in the form of the turbans worn by the Moorish Princes.
In the out-door envelopes nothing new can be expected to take place till about the middle of March, at the soonest. Pelisses are, certainly, more in favour than cloaks, except for the carriage, where they are seen of a very superb kind; but in neither of these can we yet expect any particular novelty.
We highly recommend a very elegant dress tippet, which we saw belonging to a very charming young lady, at the court end of the town; and as young people in large parties are often seated near the door, such precautionary coverings are as useful as they are ornamental. This round tippet was formed of celestial-blue and white crape, and had the two colours mingled, en clochettes: the whole appearance of this graceful appendage was light, and unobtrusive, though well adapted to the dress party.
The colours most admired, are celestial-blue, myrtle-green, canary-yellow, scarlet, ruby, and pink.
NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.
HATS AND BONNETS. – The hats are chiefly of black or rose-colour; violet-colour lined with white, green with ponceau, brown with, yellow; the red and blue are plain, and trimmed with the same colours. When a hat is not adorned with a willow feather, or two esprits, it has, for ornament, several long, white feathers. White satin bonnets, with a demi-veil of blond, are much admired.
It is not only hats and bonnets of gros de Naples which are embroidered in silk. A satin bonnet of Russian green has appeared, worked in a pattern, with white silk. The rosettes and the strings were also ornamented with embroidery.
Hats of white satin, lined with blue or rose-coloured velvet, are worn; they are adorned with plumes boiteuses, rose and white, or blue and white. Bonnets of black velvet, lined with light green, and ornamented with satin bows, are much in request, as are those of violet-coloured gros de Naples, lined with bird of Paradise yellow, or English green, lined with Parma violet.
OUT-DOOR COSTUME. Many ladies of fashion, who wear only their hair, without any covering, tie their boa- tippets across the lower part of their faces, to keep the cold from their ears.
Several very elegant ladies are seen, in walking, with boots of purple Morocco, lined with marten.
Many ladies, on quitting a ball-room, put on cloaks lined with fur. These Witzchouras do not descend so low as other cloaks.
Square shawls of blue or red Cachemire, sprinkled with very small dots of gold, are often thrown over the shoulders of the most fashionable females of distinction.
The pelisses are made of materials of very rich texture, either figured or plain. Many of them are trimmed with broad bias folds of velvet. The cuffs and pelerine are always velvet, trimmed with fringe at the edges, or notched.
DRESSES. Sleeves made in the English style have, besides the turn which the hollowing out of the sleeve has round the corsage, to introduce the arm, a kind of crescent, of the same material as the dress, but puckered or plaited in a thousand little plaits. This crescent forms the epaulette of the uniform worn by the British troops. Sometimes it is of velvet on a satin dress, and of satin on velvet. It seems to be destined in assisting a dress-maker to fasten the sleeves very low, under the shoulder.
Some whimsical ladies have brought in again a circular wristband, en bouffont, which, last summer, surrounded the elbow of the sleeve a la Marie; now, being brought lower, it is called a ruffle.
Velvet dresses prevail much, particularly at the Opera, on a benefit night. Gowns for half-dress are of rose or cherry-coloured satin; they are made high, with a ruff round the throat.
Dresses of white or coloured crape have often the addition of a blond mantelet. Indian reps silk, or Ispahan velvet, of a celestial blue, have wide sleeves of blond, and a pelerine trimmed with blond. Ball-dresses are painted and enlivened in a novel and fanciful style, the ground is chiefly of stiffened white gauze. Above the bias, at the border of either coloured or white crape dresses, worn at balls, is a wreath of vine leaves or poplar, embroidered in green silk. Several wreaths, in smaller proportions, surround the corsage and the wrists.
There are sleeves called a la Muette (de Portici:) they are long, and have, at their terminations, a bouffont cuff, laid in small plaits, called a ruffle.
A dress of green velvet, with a small wreath of myrtle, worked in gold, above the broad hem, with a friar’s belt of gold round the waist, and wide sleeves of white blond, having a narrow ruffle round the wrist, and a double row of blond round the corsage, has met with much admiration; as has also a dress of rose-coloured satin, trimmed with a bias fold of the same colour, in velvet; this bias is cut in points, fastened to the skirt by knots of pearls. The corsage is of rose-coloured velvet, ornamented round the tucker part with pearls, and a small epaulette fringed with pearls, falls over the blond sleeves; the friar’s belt is also of pearls. Satin ornaments, notched, and set on strait, or the notches crossed over each other, are often placed over the broad hem at the border.
At the wrists of long sleeves are often seen two wrist-bands, which approach each other so close, that the fullness of the cuff forms a bouffont between, and which the French ladies call a ruffle ; it forms a pretty ornament over the hand.
In evening parties a boa-tippet is often thrown over the dress ; it is formed of Marabouts, rose-colour shaded with white, or blue and white.
Net-work ornaments of silk beading are now a favourite kind of trimming, falling over the heads of the broad hems; each row is terminated by a little tassel, which has a very pretty effect; a fringe to correspond trims the sash, and the five points which fall over the short sleeves. These trimmings are seen on gauze and crape dresses.
At evening parties are seen many gowns of velvet satin, and of other rich materials ; they are most admired when of cherry-colour, trimmed with blond. Every shade of violet is also much in request; a violet-coloured satin dress, ornamented with velvet leaves, appliquees, has been lately made for a lady of rank.
A ball dress has been remarked of rose-coloured crape, bordered with a broad bias fold of the same coloured satin, above which was a little wreath formed of the tips of Marabout feathers, mingled with puffs of ribbon, of rose satin. Dresses of white crape are ornamented with wreaths painted in different colours, and mixed with ornaments of gold or silver; these are much admired for evening dress. The sash is broad, and embroidered with gold or silver.
Ladies of fashion wear blond ruffles with their short sleeves, which remind us of the reign of Louis XV., for, at the inside of the arm, the blond is much narrower than at the elbows.
If the border of a ball dress is ample, in revenge, there is a vast quantity of blond used in trimming the top of the sleeves, and also in the falling tucker at the back, which borders the corsage.
Ladies, who do not dance, wear, at the border of their dresses, one flounce of blond, headed by embroidery of gold or silver.
Satin dresses of English green, are trimmed with a broad Chenille fringe. A dress is much admired of a very rich gauze, ornamented with six narrow satin rouleaux, just above the hem, round the border : the corsage is of satin. Figured merinos are still worn in deshabille, with a pelerine of the same, ornamented by a broad trimming ; the sleeves are a la Religeuse, with a very narrow wristband. Navarines , Bombazins, and Alpine Cachemires, all fabricated at La Savonnerie, are much in use for morning dresses.
Above the broad hem of a dress of cherry-coloured crape, is a trimming of white silk beading; a white silk friar’s belt is worn with this dress.
At a ball given at court, Madame, her Royal Highness the Duchess de Berri, wore a white dress, sprinkled over with gold spots, woven in the tissue; the corsage was ornamented with diamonds, marking out all the contour of the shape. The tunic was of red Cachemire.
Madame La Dauphine wore a dress of Saxon green velvet (this is a light green, but very lively and brilliant;) bows of white satin were placed in front of the skirt, forming an apron, and in every bow of satin glittered an ear of corn in diamonds. The corsage was in drapery, and the folds were drawn together by diamond brooches. At the border of the dress was a broad trimming of blond. The sleeves were short, and composed of frills of blond.
HEAD-DRESSES. – The hair is often ornamented with puffs of ribbon, called hair-colour, which is of the darkest and the lightest shades of the chesnut, or of the light brown of the wearer’s hair. These ribbons are interwoven with narrow stripes of gold or silver. Velvet berets are ornamented with long, white feathers, three of which are placed under the brim, and two above; the berets are in the form of Spanish toques; the feathers, which are under the brim, are fastened in the centre by a diamond brooch. Blond caps are more in fashion than head-dresses in hair; the caps are adorned by a profusion of flowers. On head-dresses in hair are often seen two rows of quilled blond, separated by small branches of flowers, forming a half-coronet, which extends from one ear to the other, and are terminated by two long lappets of gauze or ribbon. A small cap, with a blond caul, and without any trimming, is ornamented in front with a wreath of puffed ribbon. Hops in blossom, mingled with ponceau feathers, and forming together a coronet. There are other coronets, composed of bunches of grapes and roses. The rose-geranium is a favourite flower in the hair at balls.
A head-dress in hair has been seen at a ball, called a la Psyche. It is composed of a great number of plats, and surmounted by a butterfly in brilliants.
The most distinguished ornaments on berets are the tails of the bird of paradise, disposed in aigrettes; of these there are generally three. A beret of ponceau velvet, thus adorned, is greatly admired. Many head-dresses are composed of pearls, mingled with the hair, and rose-coloured Marabouts; bouquets, also, of foliage, with delicate blossoms, formed like a bird of paradise, and placed in pairs among the tresses, produce a charming effect.
The Dauphiness, at the last court ball, wore a Saxon green velvet toque, ornamented with a great number of wheat-ears, in diamonds, and differently coloured stones.
A turban of rose-coloured and silver gauze, ornamented with silver aigrettes, is often worn at dress balls.
JEWELLERY. – Chatelaines are still in favour. The Duchesse de Berri, at the last ball given at court, had her hair adorned with jewels of different colours.
A young Marchioness, on her presentation at court, wore ear-pendants, necklace, and bracelets, composed of rubies and diamonds.
MISCELLANEOUS. Besides the large carpet in a bed-chamber, there is a hearth-rug, and on that a carreau (foot-stool), whereon to place the lady’s slippers to air before the fire.
A whimsical fashion, which cannot last, has taken place in the stockings of ladies in full dress; they are of flesh- coloured silk, on which are painted little birds, in blue, or butterflies in their varieus natural colours.
Bouquets, carried in the hand, are much in vogue. In full dress many ladies carry an aumoniere (a kind of net purse) , which species of reticule looks well with velvet or satin.
White gloves are worn in evening dress, richly embroidered, either in white silk, in various colours, or with gold.
From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons
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