This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.
COSTUME OF ALL NATIONS, (NO. 39.) NEAPOLITAN.
” Naples of luxury the native seat,”
Sang the poet, and well, in that single line, did he paint the attractions of that gay and splendid place, to which the voluptuary, after having long worn the imperial purple, hastened in search of new, and yet unheard of pleasures. The latter may be found to any unvitiated mind and taste in the contemplation of an unclouded sky, enchanting prospects, its fine hay of picturesque renown, and its streets replete with entertainment, and groups of happy-looking, laughing predestrians, enjoying the exhibition constantly displayed of that king of puppet shows, diverting Punch, one of the principal delights of the merry Neapolitans.
The females are charming; and though their costume is gay, and biguarree, it is infinitely becoming; we have before presented our readers with the general dress adopted by the females of Naples, yet we have now the pleasure of giving to their inspection, one more elegant and varied, worn at the last Carnival, and from which a drawing in our possession was taken on the spot.
It consists of a petticoat, corset-corsage, and bracers of bright geranium satin: the petticoat is bordered by four rows of gold lace; the same trimming surrounds the tucker part of the corsage, under which is a chemise of the finest lawn, drawn decorously over the bust, till just below the throat. A row of gold lace down each side the front of the bust forms a stomacher, and the back is ornamented in the same manner, and laces on each side by geranium silk cordon. The braces are simply of satin of the same colour, and fasten by three rings to the body, on the gold lace which surronnds it, as they meet that which forms the stomacher. A short skirt of yellow satin, which fastens behind, and is there left open, is surrounded by a border of etherial blue, on which are embroidered in white silk, some Greek figures and crosses, and this border is finished with broad gold lace. The sleeves are also of yellow satin, with a cuff at the wrist, with one point, and the cuff edged with gold lace. A narrow ruffle of blond surrounds the wrist, next the hand, and blue ribbon with a rossette on the outside of the shoulder, in front. A belt of blue satin, ornamented by gold chain-work, encircles the waist; and an apron of white crape, painted or embroidered in an antique pattern of Etruscan brown, completes the lower part of the dress. The hair is arranged in very full curls, and over it is a Portici veil of celestial blue crape, richly, but lightly edged, and fringed with gold; a very long Glauvina-pin of gold supports that part of this veil, which is usually stiffened, so as to shade the eyes, partially, from too great a glare of light. The ear-pendants are en girandoles, and consist of pearls and rubies , and the necklace is formed of three rows of rubies, strung a l’antique; a large ruby brooch, set round with pearls, is placed in the centre of the chemise, in front of the bust. The shoes are of yellow satin with large blue rosettes, and are fastened up on each side of the leg, by yellow strings.
A DINNER DRESS.
A dress of white gros de Naples bordered by five rows of satin ornaments a la Vandyck, the points reversed: over these hangs a light drapery of tulle, in divisions, and between each division a full blown lotos, in white satin. The corsage is made slightly, a la Roxalane, and is encircled by a pointed zone. A double falling tucker of blond, of the most exquisite workmanship, surrounds the bust, and in the centre is a bow of white satin ribbon; the sleeves are also adorned at the shoulders by a similar bow, and these sleeves are short and very full. A beret of pink crape is profusely ornamented beneath the brim, with pink satin foliage, and white and pink bows of gauze ribbons, two strings of which, in pink, float over the left shoulder: the ornaments on the beret consist of double pink larkspur, and branches of lilac, with a very small portion of green foliage. This dress is charmingly adapted for the spring.
AN EVENING DRESS.
A dress of Indian taffety, of a pomegranate-red, with a bouillone trimming of the same, covering the hem next the shoe. A very broad flounce of white blond slightly fastened constitutes the border, over which are chain-links, formed of white satin rouleaux. The body made quite plain to fit the shape, and the waist encircled by a sash, the same colour as the dress, of broad ribbon, with two ends depending from a small rosette on the left side, in front; these ends descend only as low as the top of the flounce. The sleeves are short and full, and the fulness confined in the middle in the same manner, as the sleeves a la Marie; they terminate next the elbow by a frill of broad blond; and the tucker part of the bust is surrounded by a double frill of blond, set on full, and more separate from each other than the falling tuckers: this ornament has a small rosette of pomegranate-red in the centre. A white satin dress hat, placed very much on one side constitutes the head-dress. Under the elevated side of the brim are placed three small white Marabout feathers; a beautiful plumage of which, with white gauze ribbons, ornament the crown; and very long strings of the same ribbon, which has a rich brocaded satin stripe at each edge, float over the shoulders. Bracelets arc worn over the gloves, formed of cameos, or separate medallions of differently coloured stones.
A MORNING DRESS.
A dress of fine India muslin, with a very deep flounce in festoons, elegantly embroidered, and the scallops edged by a double quilling of narrow lace. Over the flounce is worked on the dress, in superb pattern in embroidery. The body is en gerbe, with a full ruche of thread tulle round the upper part of the bust. The sleeves a la Mameluke, with a broad cuff, headed by a ruche, the same as the tucker, and a similar ornament next the hand; between these ruches, there is a bracelet on the left wrist formed of two rows of gold beads; on the right, a broad gold bracelet, on which are medallions in turquoise stones. The hat is of satin, the colour of the summer rose, with bows of the same, and a few black espoit feathers; this hat ties under the chin, with ribbon the same colour as the hat, figured in delicate outlines of black. A necklace of rubies, set round with pearls a l’antique, encircles the neck just below the throat.
A MORNING DRESS.
A dress of plain jaconet muslin, with a very broad hem at the border, finished at the head in Vandyke points: these are terminated by a double ruche of narrow thread tulle, over a slight embroidery of green foliage. The corsage is made slightly en gerbe, partially low, with a full double falling tucker of narrow lace, of a neat pattern; the waist is encircled by a cambric belt, embroidered with green, to correspond with the foliage on the skirt. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, finished at the wrists and ornamented in the same manner, as those of the engraving described above, except, that instead of the bracelets, is sometimes introduced between the ruches, embroidery, in green. The bonnet is of white gros de Naples, trimmed with scrolls of the same, and dark green esprits: strings of white striped ribbon float loose.
AN EVENING DRESS.
A dress of apricot-coloured crape, over a satin slip, trimmed at the border with broad ribbons of the same colour, forming Vandyke points; at each of the upper points is a rosette of the same ribbon ; and the ornament is headed by a rouleau of satin, the colour of the dress. The body is a la Sevigne; and in the centre of the bouffant, drapery across the upper part of the bust is a splendid brooch, en girandole, of turquoise-stones. The sleeves arc short, fluted, and very full, with a frill of blond over each shoulder. The hair is arranged a la Naide, and on the summit is a very large blue convolvulus with buds and green foliage: on the left side is a glauvina pin, with a superb head, ornamented with jewels. The ear-rings are of turquoise-stones.
A DINNER DRESS.
A dress of violet-coloured satin with a very broad horn round the border of the skirt, headed by passementerie, in a twisted cord, or ornament. The body made quite plain to fit the shape, and the waist encircled by a belt of the same colour as the dress, with a brooch in front, of a lozenge form, consisting of an antique head in alto-relievo, set in finely wrought fillagree gold. The sleeves are in the jigot form, and are slashed a l’Espagnole, on the outside of the arm, the slashes filled in by white crepe aerophane; the sleeves are confined at the wrists by broad bracelets of green and gold enamel, with clasps in brooches, corresponding with the ornament in front of the belt. The head-dress consists of a hat of coloured satin, under the brim of which, lying on the hair, is a rosette of white gauze ribbon on each side, which are divided by an entwined bandeau of the same ribbon placed across, just above the forehead: the hat, which is crowned by a beautiful white plumage, is placed very backward. The jewellery worn with this dress, are fine Oriental pearls, in ear-pendants, and elegant drop-necklace and cross; those pearls which form the festoon over the bust are smaller than those which compose the single row that encircles the neck. Where the festoon is caught up, is a brooch; the alto-relievo head answers to that on the belt, except that this is round instead of being in a lozenge shape.
AN EVENING DRESS.
A dress of etherial-blue crape, with a broad hem at the border; at the head of which are two rows of ornaments, resembling irregular chevrons, united, but lying obliquely across the skirt; these are of satin, about two shades darker than the dress ; the largest of them fall downwards, the upper ones, which are smaller, are in a contrary direction; they are finished on one side by very narrow white blond. The body is a la Circassienne, and a belt of blue satin, embroidered with gold, confines the waist. The sleeves are short and full, and are surmounted at the top by a frill of white blond. The hair is arranged in full curls on each side of the face, and over the right side, from the summit, are two loops of hair, forming a bow, which is brought rather forward, but not so as to derange the curls in front. On the summit of the head is a broad plat, en Corbeille, from whence issue light and rather long curls; through these is placed an arrow of gold. Two rows of beads, formed of Egyptian pebbles, obliquely cross the forehead. The ear-rings are of gold.
FIG. 1. – Back view of a head-dress in hair, the same in style as that above described, with the additional ornaments of a full-blown rose, a butterfly, and a gold arrow.
FIG. 2. – Back view of a dress hat, of celestial-blue satin; the crown very low, and fluted en melon, slightly ornamented with white gauze ribbon, and a beautiful plume of white feathers.
FIG. 3. – Back view of a coiffeure in hair, arranged a la Naide. The summit crowned with a large full-blown yellow rose, buds, and green foliage.
A MORNING DRESS.
A tunic pelisse of fine white merino, beautifully embroidered in a greek pattern round the tunic with bouquets of flowers, at each corner. The body made high, a la Circassienne, and the sleeves en jigot. A pelerine of crape falls over the shoulders, and is embroidered round with two rows of the same greek pattern, which surrounds the tunic. The hat is of primrose gros de Naples, ornamented with double lilac-coloured garden poppies.
FASHIONABLE BONNETS AND HEAD-DRESSES.
Fig. 1. – A Neapolitan cap a la fiancee, of rich white blond, tastefully, but very lightly ornamented with flowers and ribbon, under the border.
FIG. 2. – Dress hat of white crape, with a bow of gauze ribbon, at the edge of the brim, on the right side. The crown elegantly ornamented with blond.
FIG. 3. – A bonnet for the promenade of white gros de Naples, trimmed and bound with pea-green ribbon.
FIG. 4. – A back View of a similar bonnet in lavender gros de Naples, trimmed with bows of the same material.
FIG. 5. A turban of blue crape, with saffron coloured ornaments of square foliage, cut in ribbons.
FIG. 6. – Back view of the same kind of turban, in pink crape, with spring green ornaments.
FIG. 7. – Back and front view of a court head-dress, formed of rich blond lappets, crossing the fore part of the hair: the tresses on the summit highly elevated, in plats and bows, and crowned with flowers formed of differently coloured valuable jewels.
NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR MAY, 1829.
No longer, now, does the style of fashion remain suspended. Imagination, at length, ventures to decide on the choice of whatever may best please the fancy, amidst the numerous varieties now displayed, wherein the most charming and original feature presents itself to the eye of taste, in every versatile form; and our manufactures are so unrivalled, that we need not the aid of any foreign production in the adornment of our lovely countrywomen.
In regard to the elegancies of costume in the splendid courts of civilized Europe, and what may be gleaned from researches into antiquity, a successful emprunt may, occasionally, be resorted to; in this respect we cannot forbear calling, the attention of our most kind patronesses to the judicious alterations introduced by MRS. BELL, who has made, without destroying the original feature, those changes which have been productive of the most happy effect, and gained her the applause she so justly merits.
The bonnets for Spring are in great variety; one for the promenade is of fawn-coloured gros-de-Naples, edged at the border with rock -geranium-coloured beading; (this beading is now so extremely fashionable that scarce a bonnet or dress is finished without it:) the bonnet has an ornament round the crown, en fers de Cheval, of the same colour and material as the hat, lined with geranium sarcenet, in the hollows of which are placed puffs of ribbon the same colour as the bonnet, with a broad satin stripe of Navarin-blue at the edge, on which are clouds of geranium and white; the strings of the same ribbon are in a loop. A bonnet of white satin is trimmed with velvet ribbon, and bound with it at the edge, of a deep claret-colour, with an edge of bright amber, spotted with claret-colour. Strings, which are in a loop, are also of velvet, but with the colours reversed; the ground being of amber, and the edges claret, with yellow spots; the bows beneath the brim are the same as the strings. A superb carriage-bonnet, of a truly elegant shape, is of bird-of-Paradise satin, edged at the brim, about half an inch from the extremity, with black beading. Gauze ribbon, the same colour as the bonnet, with rich black satin stripes, ornaments the crown, and three beautiful weeping-willow feathers, the same tint as the bonnet, droop over the right side. A lady in slight mourning, has bespoke a very elegant bonnet of white gros-de-Naples, trimmed with black satin and black blond; scrolls of black satin, and other fanciful ornaments surround the crown, and black aigrette feathers. A figured white satin bonnet for the carriage, is trimmed with white satin ribbon richly striped ; it is ornamented with weeping-willow feathers of white and marsh-mallow blossom. A Canary -yellow satin bonnet is trimmed with yellow ribbons striped with black, in exactly the same style as the white figured satin bonnet above described, but is without plumage. A bonnet of etherial-blue satin is bound, lined, and trimmed with bird-of-Paradise ribbon, which has clouds at the border of green, red, and yellow: a broad blond, quilled in flutings, is placed beneath the brim, and ribbon in rosettes; the crown is adorned with esprit feathers in heath-foliage, white, green, and yellow. A white bonnet of gros-de-Naples, is figured all over in clouds of various colours, and bound with a variegated rouleaux of green and blue foliage the same colour as the bonnet, edged with blond, ornaments the crown, with white Narcissuses, and their green foliage, formed of feathers. A white carriage-bonnet of gros-de-Naples, has a beautiful border, worked in flat embroidery of red currants and their green foliage; the base of the crown is finished round in the same manner, and the summit in three very narrow rouleaux of currant-red satin, flowers of which bright tint ornament the hat, and from the centre of each flower, which is of the double Muscavia form, issue white esprit feathers. The gauze ribbon, employed in the decoration of this bonnet, arc beautifully diversified in satin stripes of lively and bright colours; the strings float loose. An embroidered edge to a marshmallow-blossom coloured bonnet, is very charming; it is a delicate wreath, the flowers white, representing those of the lilies of the valley, but the green leaves are smaller. A tropic bird’s plume is fixed in front, and waves archwise over each side; it is green, with a spray of heath in the centre. The ribbons are of Spring-green gauze, with satin stripes, the same colour as the bonnet, at one edge, and white on the other.
Among the head-dresses is a blond cap of fine tulle and blond, which has much style and fashion about it, but great taste is requisite in the putting it on, which should be on one side, discovering much of the hair, well arranged, on the other. It has a broad border, turned entirely back; sprigs of double violets and jonquils lie on the right side of the hair, and higher, on the left side, is placed a bouquet of the same flowers, with white snow-drops and crocusses grouped among them; Canary-yellow gauze ribbons, striped with black, are scattered slightly, in bows, over the summit. An Ottoman-turban, for full-dress evening parties, is a splendid coiffeure; half of the folds in front are of white satin, the other half of gold gauze. In the centre, in front, is the Sultana’s aigrette plume of yellow and white Herons’ feathers, intermingled with green and scarlet, from the tail of some rare foreign bird. A pink gauze turban is much admired for evening-dress ; it has a very beautiful plumage of ostrich feathers fixed in front, the same colour as the turban, the tips reclining to the left side, where they droop gracefully, but not lower than to the ear. The pelisses remain exactly in the style which prevailed last month; and the newest article, for out-door covering, is a pelerine mantelet, of fine India muslin, to be worn over a high dress, when the weather is sufficiently mild ; these chaste and elegant appendages are expected to be much in request the ensuing summer, either for the carriage or the promenade. They are trimmed all round with a frill of the same muslin as the mantelet, delicately embroidered all round in a small pattern, worked in feather-stitch; a row of a similar kind is also seen at the head of the trimming, worked on the mantelet itself.
The most admired colours are blue, of various shades, spring-green, jonquil, Canary-yellow, bird-of-Paradise, marshmallow-blossom, pink, fawn, and currant-red.
NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.
HATS AND BONNETS. Crape hats have already made their appearance ; they are of various colours, and are trimmed with blond. Some are ornamented with white plumage.
Bonnets of steam-coloured satin, are lined with blue, and trimmed with blue ribbon.
Carriage bonnets are of Russia-satin, and the hats of crape, ornamented with a branch of lilac, generally white, on a salmon-coloured crape hat. On bonnets of striped gros de Naples, which are striped like ginghams, a bunch of Parma-violets is often placed. On hats of white crape, is generally seen a branch of the peach-tree, or almond-tree in blossom.
A diminution in the size of the hats and bonnets, is expected to take place this summer. The crowns are round; those of the leghorn hats are, however, made different, and their brims are very large. Bonnets of straw, interwoven with ribbon, are displayed in the Magazins de Modes. A white chip hat has appeared, with a wreath of roses, without foliage, and an aigrette of holly.
Sarcenet, with a narrow corded stripe, is a favourite material for bonnets; round the crown is a row of ribbon disposed in ornaments like the point of a lance, and these points form a palisade: the points come beyond the crown, one or two inches.
Apricot-coloured hats and bonnets are very fashionable.
Indian-green is a fashionable colour in the trimming of hats; it is of a peculiarly bright tint, and is much used in ornamenting hats of chamois colour. Rose-coloured hats are much admired in the public walks, as are those of white watered gros de Naples, and of white crape, ornamented both beneath and above the brim, with blue gauze ribbons, with satin stripes; but the newest hats are of salmon-colour.
There is much silk used in the fabrication of the bonnets. They are plaited in large flutings, and have sometimes a rosette or a button, to fasten down these plaits to the middle of the crown, which is formed like a caul. Very often they are without being fastened, but are brought together on one side, from whence they depend. Some rose-coloured bonnets are entirely composed of gauze ribbons, with satin stripes, sown together at the edges. The bonnets of figured gros de Naples are checquered, and the chequers so large, and of such glaring colours, that a bonnet appears of three colours: the border, for example, yellow, the middle, lilac, and the remainder rose-colour. A striped ribbon, correspondent with these, trims the crown.
OUT-DOOR-COSTUME. – Several satin pelisses have the backs of the corsages made quite square; the skirt is set in, in very full plaits; the sleeves very wide, and the cuff coming very low over the hand.
In open carriages, cloaks are yet found indispensible; the newest are striped, and have a remarkably broad pelerine cape.
Pelisses are much in favour, some are of a wrapping kind; others are made to fit tight to the shape, and have the seams of the sleeves on the inside of the arm.
DRESSES. – Passementerie is expected to be much used in the trimming of dresses this summer, either in cordon, or in fringes, gowns so finished having already appeared.
The width of the sleeves is really terrific; there is about the same quantity of stuff made use of as it takes to make the rest of the dress. Dresses of white Merino prevail much at the promenades, they are painted in a pattern of various colours. Gowns of gros de Naples are trimmed with one broad flounce of the same colour as the dress; a pelerine is generally worn with them, embroidered round in the same manner as the flounce.
Several dresses have been seen bordered by narrow rouleaux which reach as high as the knee. A dress of black crape appeared lately at a ball, with stripes of gold, and palm-leaves round the border.
A chemisette tucker, embroidered and edged with a narrow lace, has now taken place of the plaited blond tuckers. Some dresses of white crape have a border as high as the knee, of lilacs and pinks, worked in flat embroidery.
Egyptian-muslins are new, and admired articles for dresses: nothing can be conceived more original than their patterns, which transport the imagination to the banks of the Nile, and cause the dress of a pretty woman to be regarded as a relic snatched from the Temple of Memphis. The colouring of these muslins is excellent.
Chaly de Constantinople is a charming material, which is adapted to all seasons, and it is so soft that it never rumples. One of these Chaly dresses merits particular notice; the border was painted in nine large palm-leaves of various colours, which produced an admirable effect. This style is called Harlequin.
Spotted Silenia, and figured Irish poplins are also beautiful articles; next to which we may place the toile de Ceos, a very distinguished material, well suited to fancy costumes; for it has this advantage, it is never likely to become common.
Smyrra gauze, figured and printed, embroidered Indian taffety, toile d’Ispahan, are all excellent articles for dresses. Scotch lawn, on which is painted or embroidered all kind of patterns, and lawns striped in divers colours, will be much worn by our fashionables this Spring. We must also reckon as novelties, mummy gauze, all of one colour, but striped: Syrian-gauze, with very narrow stripes.
Dresses of figured Merino, or of green Norwich-crape, are frequently seen in the Bois de Boulogne, in open carriages. A noble Marchioness was lately seen there in a dress of blue velvet; and another lady wore a dress of Burgundy-colour, with a very full body. The equestrian ladies have their habits made in that smart and becoming style, which discovers the skirt delicately plaited, and buttoning down the front like those of the gentlemen. The habit is either of celestial-blue cloth, or of laurel-green.
At a benefit performed for Madame MALIBRAN, several dresses were seen, the short sleeves of which were covered with white blond, slightly puckered at the top, and very wide ; at the wrist they formed an oreille d’elephant.
Most of the new dresses are made with a stomacher, and with plain flat backs. The plaits of the skirts are very full on each hip, which makes the waists of the stoutest females appear slender.
At present, on all the dresses made of spring materials, a pelerine is added the same colour as the gown; this is surrounded by a very broad border, or by a fringe. Some of these have pointed ends in front, en Canezou.
Ruffles are again in fashion at the cuffs; they are often plaited in the middle, and have edging on each side.
In some of the Magasins de Modes, and among several of the Marchands des Nouveautes, there is a new material of silk and stuff, which is of a colour between lavender-grey, and lilac; it is named parfait amour.
Among several other novelties is a material named gros de Naples Jardiniere, which from the brightness and harmony of its colours, is well adapted to summer dress. Chaly gree, Indian Cachemere, and mossed muslin, the name of which is expressive of grace, are also charming articles. Gros de Naples in narrow stripes, of beautiful shades, and various tissues of the newest patterns, remarkable for their taste and elegance, attract the Parisian belles to the fashionable Magasins in which they are now displayed. A great quantity of chintzes, of every shade and pattern, are seen, with Indian taffeties worked in flat embroidery, and are charmingly adapted for summer wear; several are worked in bouquets at the border of the dress, others in wreaths above the hem. In deshabille, ruffs are worn round the neck, named a la Maintenon; these are a simple collar, surmounted by a ruche.
Gros de Naples dresses of Indian green, for evening parties, are watered.
It is no longer fashionable to wear any stiffening under the sleeves, a la Mameluke. It is the mode now for them to fall entirely from the shoulders. White sleeves, worn with coloured gowns in half dress, with a narrow waist-band, increase daily in favour.
HEAD-DRESSES. Ladies who go to balls, but who do not dance, wear as a head-dress the Cardinal’s hat, or turbans of gold or silver tissue.
A pretty cap a la fiancee Neapolitaine, has lately appeared.
Now, more than ever, are bandeaux in hair adopted by our fashionables; but whether such a lady wears on her head a cap, a hat, or a beret, when she is full dressed, she must have, on each side of her coiffeure, or behind, two appendages, which may give her the semblance of being dressed for court; only instead of parting them according to the etiquette of the lappets for the drawing-room, they must not be separated, but must fall over the back, or only over one shoulder.
Lately at a dramatic performance, a lady had a turban of Navarin blue crape, with hair-stripes of silver; it was ornamented with two birds of Paradise, arched over each other.
At the theatres, and at evening parties, the berets are very simple and elegant, and are of crape ornamented with two tufts of ribbons, cut in leaves. Toques a la Francis I., are much worn at concerts ; they are of crape, or of watered gros de Naples, and instead of a feather, they have round the crown a row of ribbon, folded en fers de lances, with a branch of lilac or jessamine, placed vertically.
At a late musical party, a very pretty woman was seen in a very elegant cap a la fiancee; it was of white blond, ornamented with puffs of gauze ribbon, with satin stripes, and was crowned with full-blown roses.
Young persons have their hair arranged in the Chinese fashion, and take great pains in forming the small ring-curls which are near the ears above each temple. To keep these in proper order they use gum-arabic, and sugar and water.
The hair to be very short at the nape of the neck is also another serious care ; and there it is formed in small cork-screw ringlets.
Small morning caps are less trimmed than they were last summer. They have a single border of lace, and are very slightly ornamented with ribbon. Caps for home dress are of very fine tulle; round the front is a broad border, festooned en cretes de coq; and two long lappets, festooned likewise, serve instead of ribbons to fasten them under the chin. In the composition of a blond cap there is now to be seen a band of white chip, which the fashionists turn round in a manner so as to form a horse-shoe over each temple; there are introduced two tufts of hair, with two light curls.
DRESSES AT LONGCHAMP.
The first day of the promenade at Longchamp, the weather cleared up towards six o’clock, but then it was too late; on the morrow, however, at an early hour, the file of carriges was formed.
In a beautiful chariot was seen a hat of white crape, the crown of which was formed like a Maltese cross: the interstices of which were filled in by blond lined with rose-colour: roses were mingled with the bows of ribbon round the crown.
There were some hats entirely of blond; bands of white chip kept them in shape; these were ornamented with white feathers.
On some hats which were composed of ribbons, sewn together at the edges, with puckered brims, there was light plumage, wide enough to shew to advantage the differently coloured flowers painted on them.
Rouleaux of blue crape, entwined, and forming a kind of treillage work, in oval meshes, composed a bonnet which was ornamented with clematis. This bonnet was not lined but discovered the hair through the treillage.
Silk fringes, having a netted head of four rows of meshes, formed the trimming on several dresses, as high as the knee, and was also seen at the edge of the pelerines.
The petticoats of the riding dresses were of cloth, the colour of terre de Morea, and the jacket white jacanot muslin, with braiding on the seams.
Chip hats were remarked, ornamented with tulips or poppies on long stalks ; others by a broach of lilac, or one of oak.
JEWELLERY. – The buckles for ladies belts are of gold, ornamented with eight precious stones, set transparent; two malachites, two red cornelians, two white, and two topazes. These stones are all irradiated, as we often see brilliants. The malachites occupy one extremity of the buckle, and the six other stones ornament the sides.
The keys which the ladies now hang to their chatelaines are enamelled, and the rings have their coat of arms engraven on them.
MISCELLANEOUS. – At balls some ladies wear white silk stockings, brocaded over with Cachemere flowers.
Ladies of fashion wear feathers of the Cassowary, the plumage of this bird is of a beautiful black. In 1796, and 1797, Le Jardin des Plantes, at Paris, possessed a Cassaworay. This bird was as tall as an ostrich, and very voracious; they fed it with bread, potatoes, and carrots. The first Cassaworay ever seen in Europe was brought into Holland, in 1597.
From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons
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