This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.
COSTUME OF ALL NATIONS. NO. 42. VENETIAN.
It is a well-known saying, that those who have seen Venice have seen all that in this world is worth seeing. Among its highest attractions, and what we are disposed to consider as the very first, are its beautiful females: the fine Italian contour of face, the sparkling eye, the rosy lip, and regular, yet expressive features, are all considerably set off by a costume, still bearing the peculiar feature of the republic, though perfectly accordant with the improved attire of the most polished circles in other European states.
The dress is of white Italian silk, elegantly painted over in detached bouquets of different coloured flowers: this robe is open on one side of the skirt, discovering underneath, a petticoat of corn-flower-blue satin; and the edges of the robe at this opening are finished by an entwined rouleau of light blue and yellow. The corsage is made plain, and round the tucker part of the bust, and down the front of the body, en guimpe, is a larger of corn-flower-blue satin this, on gala days, is studded with differently-coloured gems; but on a dress of less ceremony these ornaments are of embossed silk embroidery. A girdle, of the same kind encircles the waist, and is fastened in front with a superb cameo. The sleeves fit close to the arm, and are of corn-flour-blue satin, slashed a l’Espagnole, with the slashes, which are small, filled in by white silk. Very broad bracelets of gold and rubies encircle the wrists. Over this sleeve hangs that elegant appendage called the Venetian sleeve, which is always the same as the robe, and edged round by narrow gold lace. The head-dress is compoed of a diadem of different coloured gems, from which issues a coronet of ears of corn in gold, and over each temple is a bouquet of blue corn-flowers. A bandeau of gold, with a ruby in the centre, crosses the forehead. The ear-pendants are of Turquoise-stones and gold; and the necklace of different coloured gems, set in gold, a l’Antique; from the centre depends a Girandole ornament of the same materials. A fan formed of white feathers completes this elegant and becoming costume.
A WALKING DRESS.
A dress of white muslin, richly embroidered in points at the border: each of these points inclose the work by a very full ruche, formed of thread tulle; thus making a conspicuous Vandyck border of rich points. The dress is made high; and though the body is slightly en gerbe, it is embroidered in a very splendid manner. A pointed zone confines it at the waist. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, with bracelets of dark braided hair, fastened with a gold heart: above this bracelet is a cuff, in Vandycked points, trimmed with a ruche of narrow tulle. A triple ruff of lace encircles the throat. The bonnet is of pale pink satin, and is trimmed under the brim with long and broad points of figured ribbon, pink and Spanish brown. Strings of the same kind of ribbon float over the shoulders. The crown of the bonnet is ornamented with pink satin, en fers de Cheval, stiffened, and discovering between the interstices full bouquets of pink fancy flowers, without foliage.
AN EVENING DRESS.
A dress of spring green crepe Aerophone, with abroad border beautifully painted in different, but suitable colours to the green, so that good taste is not offended by the association of tints too glaring; the part next the shoe consists in a pattern of small spots of deep and rich red; and over this, which forms a broad border, is a full, but very delicate wreath of foliage and flowers, somewhat resembling the barberry foliage and its fruit; the leaves are, however, of a green, several shades darker than the dress. The body is full a l’enfant, and is made low, particularly at the shoulders: but the bust is very delicately shielded by a transparent tucker of tulle, edged by narrow blond, which draws across the lower part of the neck: from this three rows of blond form a falling tucker, divided from that which draws, by a narrow rouleau of yellow and red satin. The sleeves are a l’imbecille, confined at the wrist by a bracelet, fastened by a cameo. The hair is arranged in curls on each side of the face, parted on the forehead, and short at the ears; the curls are rather large. The bows of hair on the summit of the head, are arched, and a la serpent. Three puffs of green crepe Aerophone, tastefully disposed, constitute all the ornament. The ear-pendants are of gold, en Girandoles, and the necklace consists of two rows of gold chain, with large, round links. The shoes are of satin, the colour of the dress.
A MORNING DRESS.
A wrapping pelisse of white Organdy, faced and bordered by a broad hem, over the head of which is a wreath of delicate embroidery in light colours. Body en gerbe, with a pelerine of muslin, trimmed round with the same, laid in small plaits, and the trimming finished at the edge by narrow lace. The waist encircled by a rose-coloured sash, tied in front with long ends. The sleeves are a l’imbecille, confined at the wrist by a cuff or wrist-band, ornamented on each side by raised buttons: this band is surmounted by an elegantly fluted ornament of lace. A falling double frill-ruff of lace surrounds the throat. A cornette of blond is worn under a small Livinia hat of fine leghorn, lined with rose-colour, and tied with rose-ribbon. Half-boots of Nankin.
A MORNING PROMENADE DRESS.
A pelisse of celestial-blue Jacanot muslin; the facings down each side of the front scalloped, and edged by narrow lace; on the facings are flowers, embossed, in white silk embroidery. The body made tight to the shape, with sleeves a la Mameluke, confined at the wrist by a full double ruffle of lace. Double fan mancherons edged with narrow lace. Hat of white gros de Naples, trimmed with lemon-coloured ribbon, edged with blue. A bandeau and rosette of the same ribbon is placed under the brim. A white blond veil is worn with this hat. A petticoat of embroidered muslin is worn under the above pelisse.
FASHIONABLE HEAD-DRESSES.
FIG. 1. – Back view of a Bonnet. – This bonnet is of white gros de Naples, with a pink crown, and pink ribbons with black hair stripes at the edge: a rich broad blond, wide enough for a curtain veil, is placed at the edge of the brim.
FIG. 2. – Second back view of a Bonnet. – Bonnet of lilac-coloured gros de Naples; with a ruche of white blond at the edge of the brim. The bonnet trimmed with white gauze ribbon, and ornamented with double white larkspurs.
FIG. 3. – Carriage-Hat – Of light coloured corded silk, of a brown cast; the hem ornamented underneath with a bandeau, terminated at each end by a rosette: the hat is elegantly ornamented with flowers in a spiral direction.
FIG. 4. – Dress-Hat – Of corn-flower blue satin, with two bird-of-paradise plumes, one placed under the brim, and rising over the crown; the other placed at the base of the crown, on the opposite side.
N. B. Back view of the same hat.
AN EVENING DRESS.
A dress of fine India muslin, ornamented at the border by two rows of stripes, consisting of detached flowers, worked in embroidery of different colours; these are each finished by a fringe of correspondent tints. The body is made with fichu-robings in front, of fine lace; and across the upper part of the bust is a drapery a la Sevigne. The waist is encircled by a rich white ribbon, one of which is jonquil, the other etherial-blue, which are the most pre-dominant colours in the embroidery. The sleeves are a l’imbecille, with very full quillings of lace at the cuff, standing up towards the arm: the mancherons are double, a la Psyche, and are of fine lace; on each shoulder are ends of the same ribbon as the sash, forming a rosette: just below the throat is a full, double ruff, of lace of cobweb texture. The hair is arranged in very full clusters of curls, on each side of the face, and brought close together, and formed into a corbeille on the summit of the head; this is divided from the front hair by a diadem of wrought gold, ornamented with pearls. The ear-pendants are of gold.
N. B. A back view of the same dress in pink muslin, with white canezou spencer.
A WALKING DRESS.
A dress of mignionette-leaf-green gros de Naples, with a very broad hem round the border, headed by a rouleau in chain-work. Canezou spencer of white muslin, with sleeves a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by a cuff, with dou- ble lace ruffles on each side; these are divided from each other by a bracelet of dark hair fastened by a Cameo. A pelerine of tulle embroidered en colonnes, is bordered by a double trimming of broad lace of a Vandyck pattern, and is surmounted at the throat by a full ruff, made of several rows of narrow lace. Cottage bonnet of satin, the colour, canary yellow, trimmed with pink gros de Naples, and ribbon; the bonnet ties close under the chin. The half-boots, are of green silk.
A SECOND WALKING DRESS.
A dress of jaconot muslin, with a border of the oriental kind, richly embroidered above a hem of moderate breadth. The corsage a l’enfant, with a plaiting of tulle across the tucker part of the bust. Sleeves a l’imbecille, with a very full and broad ruffle on the left arm, and on the right a cuff, with a black velvet bracelet, clasped by a cameo head set in gold.
HKAD AND BUST OF A WALKING DRESS.
A canezou spencer of muslin, with a pelerine of the same, trimmed round with very broad lace, of a rich Vandyck pattern; the pelerine embroidered in stripes, and surmounted by a full ruff of narrow lace; under which is a froncee cravat of etherial blue and jonquil; a bow and pointed ends of each colour in front. A hat of fine straw, lined with pink, with a bandeau and rosettes of the same colour under the brim. The crown ornament with bows of broad pink ribbon, with hair-stripes of black.
A WALKING DRESS.
A pelisse of white or of some light-coloured lawn, or jaconot muslin, trimmed down the front of the skirt where it closes with ornaments en fers de cheval; when the pelisse is white these ornaments are of fluted lace; when coloured they are generally of the same material as the dress. In the hollow made by the horse-shoe, is a narrow strap fastening by a gold buckle. The body is made quite plain, and fits tight to the shape; the waist encircled by a belt, with an oblong gold buckle. The sleeves are a la Mameluke, and are confined at the wrist by a cuff, with double ruffles of lace at each side, and these are divided by a bracelet of dark hair, fastened by a simple gold slide. A muslin pelerine is worn over the shoulders, with a double full trimming at the edge, of fluted muslin; the pelerine fastens down the front by small gold buttons, and is surmounted by a triple ruff of lace. The hat is of white chip, elegantly trimmed with gauze ribbons.
N.B. A back view, half length, of the same dress.
A DINNER DRESS (A SITTING FIGURE).
A dress of very light fawn coloured gros de Naples, with two flounces round the border of the skirt, edged and headed by scarlet chenille. The corsage a l’Edith, finished by narrow rouleau-binding of scarlet satin. Sleeves a la Mameluke, confined at the wrists by broad, light cuffs, fastened by two buttons: on the right wrist, a broad, plain bracelet of gold: the dress made square in front of the bust, and cut very low from the shoulders. Hat of white gros de Naples, trimmed with broad gauze ribbon with satin stripes, and on the right side with a full bouquet of red and white full-blown Provence roses, their buds and foliage, with a few very light coloured blue-bells. Half-boots of gros de Naples, the same colour as the dress. Pearl-grey gloves. Necklace formed of a chain of gold with Girandole ornament.
A WALKING DRESS.
A dress of striped Indian taffety; the stripes lilac, on a white ground, with a broad hem round the border, headed by a fringe of lilac and white. Sleeves a l’imbecille, with an ornament at the wrist of richly embroidered tulle; beneath this, next the hand is a bracelet of white and gold enamel. A fichu pelerine of fine tulle, splendidly embroidered, and trimmed round with two broad, full frills of superb lace, the ends drawn through the sash is worn with this dress; it is surmounted next the throat by a double French ruff of lace, and is fastened in front with a rosette of white satin ribbon. The bonnet is of white crape, ornamented under the brim by rosettes of white satin, and crowned by large French marigolds, and their foliage. A parasol of dark grass green, is generally carried with this dress.
N.B. A back view of the same figure, in light fawn-colour, or Jaune-vapeur: the bonnet trimmed with white ribbon, with blue stripes.
NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS, FOR SEPTEMBER, 1829.
The “World of Fashion” in the country differs materially from that in London; the same luxury, however, is found in the various apartments of the spacious mansions belonging to our nobility and gentry, during their summer recess; and on the ottomane in the boudoir, is carelessly thrown the costly and valuable shawl from the valley, of Cachemire. In advancing to the smaller drawing-room, instead of finding a fantastic lady, arrayed in all the extreme of fashion, we behold a young and artless beauty, the wife or daughter of the owner of the domain, who, though environed by all that is magnificent, is often seen at nine in the morning, clad in a simple wrapping pelisse of white lawn, with a large Dunstable bonnet: such is the morning dress of most ladies of fashion in the country, for, wonderful to relate, she has just returned, at that hour, from an early morning walk, totally changed in her habits, as well as in her costume, from what she was in London.
But behold the same lady at a splendid dinner-party of ceremony, or evening party, a festive ball, or elegant fete, given on some family anniversary, at the public breakfast, or fete champetre; then we behold again, though with some alteration in the style of costume to that which heretofore prevailed in London, the woman of high fashion; every charm set off by the auxiliaries of blond and jewels, flowers, so beautifully executed, that they want only the fragrance of their native perfume, to render them equal to Flora’s choicest treasures, and all the labours of the loom employed in the unrivalled fabrication of figured gauzes, summer satins, and in brocaded and painted silks.
Of the last mentioned article, we have seen three dresses, finished for a beautiful mother, and her two blooming daughters; the ground of this rich material was of a charming and chaste colour, between a lavender and a tourterelle; over this was a running pattern, appearing like rich embroidery, of the most brilliant colours, representing roses of a diminutive size, in full bloom, and of different shades, with foliage of glosssy and bright green: any elaborate kind of trimming at the border, would have destroyed the beauty of this splendid silk; one broad bias fold, therefore, constituted all the ornament; the body was slightly en gerbe, and the sleeves, though quite wide enough to be fashionable, had in them nothing outre. A dress of light lavender satin has appeared at a dinner-party, with deep flounces of rich white blond; the short sleeves were wide, cut in bias, and fluted; the body a la Circassienne. Chintz dresses, for home costume, are made with long and wide sleeves, with the corsage in drapery. White muslin dresses, particularly those of a clear kind, are much in request for afternoon attire, for young ladies. Among the several new dresses lately dispatched by MRS. BELL to a distinguished family near Cheltenham, is a very beautiful one of pink crepe-Aerophane, an article now in high favour for evening parties, and for the rural ball; it was superbly ornamented with bias folds and white blond; yet this rich trimming was perfectly light, and well adapted to the season: the corsage was finished at the back, and in front of the bust en chevrons breses. Printed striped muslins are in high favour; the patterns are of very brilliant colours, in detached bouquets of flowers. The boddice of these dresses are made with a stomacher in front, and lace behind.
Many of the long sleeves are now made a l’Amadis, but even these are too wide at the top of the arm, till below the elbow, whence they fall in ample folds; the other part is tight to the arm.
The manner of arranging the hair is in plaited braids and bows. Dress hats of white crape are ornamented with white plumage, in a very tasteful manner, sometimes with three very long white ostrich feathers; but the most admired fashion consists in a number of short feathers, playing gracefully over the hat. Blond caps are much worn in half-dress; and are very elegantly ornamented with gauze ribbon, but very few flowers are now worn in caps. A toque of pale blue satin, with a superb white plumage, was lately seen on the head of a lady of high rank, and excited much admiration. When flowers are worn on the hair, they are chiefly those of the harvest-kind; a few scarlet poppies, and ears of ripe corn, with two or three blue corn flowers; but nothing is reckoned more elegant on the hair, at dress parties, especially if the hair is dark, than a few strings of pearls, negligently entwined among the tresses; this, however, .is only suited to young ladies; married females of distinction, particularly middle-aged ladies, always wear, either caps of rich blond, tastefully made, turbans, or berets; dress hats, though still in favour, have not been so prevalent this summer, as they were for the last two years. The berets are most admired when of pale pink crape, and are worn either with or without feathers, according to the particular style of dress; the turbans are generally white, and are very wide and short at the ears; the same rules as to ornament may be observed with the turbans as the berets. Several hats of coloured crape have been seen in carriages: they are ornamented with white blond, and a few flowers of the autumnal season. Bonnets of pink gros de Naples are in high estimation; the brims are large, and very evassee; flowers of the same material, or of satin, of the fancy kind, are beautifully grouped together, and ornament the crown in front, and on the right side; very broad strings of gauze ribbon, richly figured, are slightly fastened below the chin, and the ends depend as low as the belt round the waist, having the appearance, in front, of an elegant throat-scarf. A favourite bonnet for the promenade is of straw-coloured gros de Naples, trimmed with bows of the same colour, with satin stripes of Parma-violet, a white blond at the edge, set on almost straight, or a ruche of the two mingled colours in the ribbon, completes the trimming on these bonnets, which are of the close cottage style; some ladies have no trimming at the edge the bonnet, but wear either a black or white long veil; these head-coverings seem so characteristic of the modest demeanour of an Englishwoman, at the morning promenade, that we cannot but regard them with much pleasure and wish that, with that native taste which is the peculiar portion of every delicate mind, they would not be such servile imitators of foreign fashions, even when disfiguring and ridiculous but shew how capable they are of elegant invention and of becoming patterns to others: these last mentioned bonnets are a proof of it; there is no French lady can be deemed a woman of fashion, if she does not wear such an one in her morning walks, and they are named in Paris Capotes Anglaises.
The way of ornamenting hats under the brims, is generally by a twisted bandeau of gauze ribbon across, terminating at each end by a rosette, which is thus placed over each temple; the strings, which float loose, are generally fringed at the ends. Many hats and bonnets of white watered gros de Naples are lined with coloured satin
In regard to out-door costume, it is now rather in an undecided state; the silk pelisses are generally trimmed with narrow ruches, or made quite plain, but in this there is nothing novel. Black velvet pelerine-mantelets, of an entire new form, with the ends dependent to the feet, have already appeared; they are pointed behind, and the point concealed under the sash, from whence they slope gracefully to each shoulder, and set off the shape, instead of disguising it like the former round pelerine; they are lined with slight satin, of some bright colour. Very elegant mantles of the demi-saison kind are in preparation for September, and will be much in request towards the latter part or the month.
The colours most admired are the marshmallow-blossom, pink, etherial blue, sage-leaf-green, amber, and straw colour,
NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS, FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES.
HATS AND BONNETS.- One of the most admired ornaments on a white chip hat is a large poppy of pale pmk. Some white chip hats are lined with cherry-coloured crape, and adorned with a bouquet of cherry-coloured feathers. A hat ornamented with a branch of purple fox- gloves and ribbons of lilac gauze, is trimmed under the brim a la fiancee, by a broad fluted ribbon
A lady has been seen with a hat of white crape, ornamented with blond; a long branch of wild roses, – the white eglantine, – after having been carried round the crown, laid over the brim; beneath, and half over the brim, was a branch of rose-buds.
Double coquelicots made of feathers, and other red flowers, in bunches, are very favourite ornaments on Leghorn hats.
The most general way of trimming a Leghorn hat is to place in front of the crown five long white feathers ; two at the base, two a little higher, and the fifth another stage higher. On hats of crape is seen a bouquet on the right side of the crown, formed of roses and jessamine. The strings are trimmed with narrow blond.
At the public sitting of the Royal Institution was seen a straw hat, ornamented with a long branch of the sensitive plant, at the end of which was perched a bird with blue wings. A new way of ornamenting the brim of a hat, consists in plaiting the material instead of spreading it out and thus forming a kind of fan, either to the right or to the left.
Some bonnets of corded silk have a blond at the edge not full at all, but set on straight; this blond is very narrow. A large bow is placed in front of the crown, edged round in the same manner with blond; white chip hats are often seen ornamented with a branch of gilliflowers, or of marsh-mallow blossoms.
Hats formed of ribbons sewn together are very numerous some of them have a blond which is in lieu of the last row of ribbon round the brim; it is sustained on one side of the head by a ribbon fluted like a fan and fastened round the caul, and round the brim is a plaited ribbon, which is supported by wired ribbon. The crown is trimmed with a few light bows. There have been seen some very pretty bonnets of blue crape, trimmed with bows of white gauze ribbon, and surrounded by a demi-veil of blond. Some chip hats are lined with cherry-colour or jaune-vapeur; a broad ribbon forms a bow on the crown, from whence descend long ends which form the strings; these hats are copied from the last new English hats a la Lavinia.
WHALEBONE HATS. For these few last years it seems that a taste for whatever is extraordinary has become pr valent, particularly since the genius of our romance-writers, and the sight of wonderful animals have placed all that before us. To amuse our imagination, we have seen much variety to attract our attention: we had a Cameleopard, a monstrous and learned elephant, and a great whale has been brought from the sea.
Fashion, upheld by coquetry and impressed by grateful feelings, has found in the ruins of these objects ornaments to charm us. From the teeth of the elephant she has formed a thousand graceful trinkets to decorate the dress of an elegant female; the thimble to guard her finger, and the fan to conceal a secret smile. No less ingenious now to comprehend all the advantages which may be derived from whalebone, she has reduced its gigantic beard into a tissue more fresh and delicate than any which has ever yet shaded the forehead of a pretty woman. The praise which it is our duty to bestow on an intention so new and so whimsical will be justified by the success which must attend it when it is known, and the annals of fashion will long preserve the remembrance of the whalebone-gauze, as a triumph of skill, taste, and originality. We who are ever searching after all that is novel, partisans of all that is graceful, we take upon ourselves to inform the fashionable world that the whalebone hats are indicative of the most charming fancy that has evinced itself for a long period of time; that their transparency, their lightness, their beautiful tints, form a composition the most advantageous to the countenance, to which they give grace and elegance; and the eye will feel less wonder in looking at the monstrous cetaceous mass extended over the place Louis XV. than in seeing on the sofa of some sumptuous boudoir, beside of an Indian Cachemire shawl and a veil of English lace, a hat of whalebone.
OUT-DOOR COSTUME. Pelerines, the same as the dress, are much admired for the promenade ; they are made very plain.
Lawn pelerines are plaited in such a way as to leave an interval of half-an-inch between every row of plaiting these lines or rows are about half a finger’s breadth, and form a very elegant stripe. This is called plaiting in the style of music-paper.
Women of fashion who will not wear a large Cachemire shawl at this season of the year, and who find that a scarf put on boa fashion, is rather too light these cool evenings, adopt a small shawl, called a Tunis-shawl; the ground of which is figured over in bouquets of striking colours; or a Moresco shawl of lively colours and whimsical designs, either in Thibet, worsted, or silk; the latter is called Chinese-shawl, on account of the treillage work in the pattern of the border, and the flowers on the ground. A French Cachemire shawl has appeared, which cost four thousand franks. Above the border formed of palm-leaves, on variegated squares, is a kind of railing of the most delicate workmanship, at each of the four corners are claws beautifully executed.
The silk most approved of for carriage or dress pelisses, is gros des Indes; of a changeable colour, or what is called shot silk.
The newest white canezou-spencers, worn with coloured skirts are called a la Polonaise; the canezou has flaps behind like those of a lancer’s jacket, the back is flat and plain; no sash is worn with these.
DRESSES.-Young persons wear plain white dresses in almost every style of costume: even the princesses adopt this charming simplicity, and the sole ornament is a bouquet of harvest flowers placed in the sash. At times are seen on those ladies who have good sense not to be carried away by a ridiculous fashion, sleeves fitting almost close to the arm, particularly from the elbow to the wrist: but the imbecilles, however horrible their denomination, seem likely to be general during the summer.
Canezous of white jaconot muslin with petticoats of coloured silk, and a sash of striped ribbon, are very general.
The sleeves of dresses, in general, are so remarkably wide that they hang over the hips: at the top they are laid in flat regular plaits.
White dresses are cut very low on the shoulders, especially those worn at evening parties in the country. Besides the fringe, which borders the dress as high as the knees, another fringe surrounds the bust. These fringes now, instedad of the head being netted, have one closely woven, of about a finger;s breadth. Of the beautiful material called Cachemire velvet, there has been a dress prepared for the espousals of the Princess of Bavaria; it had broad stripes of emerald-green, on which was a Gothic design in black, another white stripe, in which were interwoven large Cachemire flowers. The trimming of this dress consisted of broad bias folds, cut in long sharp points, surrounded by a blond of three fingers’ breadth, set on very full at the edges. The sleeves were en beret, and were also trimmed with bias in points, edged with blond: the corsage in drapery.
Dresses of satin and of various kinds of silk are trimmed with entwined rouleaux formed of satin and blond.
Several mantels are of velvet of different colours.
At a brilliant fete which lately took place at Tivoli, her Royal Highness Madame wore a dress of green tissue, with a stomacher. Many ladies had the broad hems at the border of their dresses, headed by a deep fringe.
A dress of rose-coloured crape for dress-evenings at the theatre, was much admired lately; the corsage was in form of a heart, the sleeves short, and frilled with blond.
At all the performances at the Opera, which are regularly attended, the present simplicity of dress prevails: plain white dresses are most in favour/ When the transparent dress of a lady of fashion is such as not to be called grande parure, her slip underneath is of cambric-muslin, very highly glazed; under barege dresses it has quite the effect of satin. Changeable silks are very fashionable; blue, shot with green, is much in favour; in different lights it appears to be of one of those colours or the other.
HEAD-DRESSES. – Wreaths of flowers placed on the hair are in the form of half-coronets. The dress-hats worn at the theatres are of white crape ornamented with roses and blue feathers. Small caps with blond crowns are ornamented in front with a kind of wreath formed of cut ribbon.
Several young females have their hair arranged in the Chinese fashion. One row of pearls crosses the forehead, and is certainly the best kind of ornament for this kind of coiffure.
At rural balls young married females, to distinguish themselves from the demoiselles, wear, on a hat of Leghorn, two long white feathers, which, agitated by the movements of the dance, stand up, so that the tips turn over the crown of the hat. A bow of ribbon fastens these feathers on the right side of the crown.
Dress hats are of white chip, ornamented with flowers and small feathers, and of coloured crape, particularly rose-colour, adorned with plumage. At the representation of Guillaume Tell, a lady was observed with several cordons of pearls entwined among her tresses. A Chevalier, in coloured stones, was wound twice round the head. In several head-dresses of hair were seen roses towering over the curls on the summit of the head. Two esprits, forming a V, were placed on the hair of a lady whose head-dress was in the English style; on one side a madonna band, on the other a cluster of curls. Two birds of Paradise, with long streaming tails, formed an X on a coiffure, composed of plaits of different sizes. This head-dress had, for a bandeau for rows of pearls, and in the centre a cameo set round with diamonds.
Head-dresses of hair are ornamented at the opera with strings of pearls or chains of gold. In home costume, caps are worn of English point lace. The patterns on toques of figured gauze, consist of vine or ivy-leaves; on the right is a bouquet of three or five feathers.
JEWELLERY. – Some ladies wear under the cuffs of their sleeves, narrow bracelets which fasten by a clasp of or mat. These, while they dine, they push up to the middle of the arm to keep up the sleeve, which, from its enormous size, would else infallibly dip into every dish it might have come in contact with.
Sometimes bracelets are worn over the cuff, and represent small serpents in gold; the head descends over the hand, and seems to fasten the glove, while the tail winds up the arm and prevents the sleeve from falling over the wrist.
There are few pretty hands now which do not support the weight of a large massive ring of antique style.
Very long ear-pendants are yet in favour.
MISCELLANEOUS. – Half-boots and shoes are either of lady-bird-brown, Spanish-fly-green, or pearl-grey; the shoes are cut very low at the quarters.
Pocket-handkerchiefs of lawn, with the corners embroidered in gold, are much used by the higher classes. The most elegant have a wreath of small pinks just above the hem.
From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons
Onward to October 1829
Back to August 1829