Newest Parisian Fashions for November 1829

This Publication is indebted to Mrs. Bell, removed to No. 3, Cleveland Row, opposite St. James’s Palace, for the designs and the selection of the Fashions, and the Costumes of All Nations, which regularly embellish it. Mrs. Bell’s Magazin de Modes is replete with every fashionable article ; and at which there is a daily and constant succession of novelties in Millinery, Dresses, &c. &c. &c. AND AT MOST MODERATE PRICES. – Mrs. Bell’s Patent Corsets are unrivalled, and very superior to all others; they impart an indescribable grace and elegance to the figure.

Plate the First

The females of this province are famed for the beauty of their countenances, but their shapes have not that fineness so peculiar to the Spanish ladies in general. In their dress they are remarked for the richness of their silken garments; Murcia being famed all over the world for its silks; it abounds so with mulberry-trees, the constant food of the silk-worm, that the silks exported from this province alone, are supposed to be worth two hundred thousand pounds annually.
There is a certain peculiarity in the dress of the Murcian ladies, from the nationality of which they scarce ever entirely deviate. The engraving which we present to our readers this month, may be depended upon as an exact representation of their costume.
It consists of a white petticoat of rich silk, bordered by narrow satin rouleaux; over this is worn a short robe of a bright Andalusian geranium-colour, with three rows round the border of splendid gold lace; that in the centre broader than the other two; at the hips, as if marking out the pockets, is another ornament of gold lace. The corsage is of black velvet, ornamented down each side with gold buttons, and laces over bright geranium silk, the same colour and material as the robe, forming a kind of stomacher, with geranium cordon, which is also open, discovering a portion of white silk, of which an apron is composed, which finishes the skirt of the dress in front, and is bordered with rouleau-stripes, set on two-fold, of geranium. The sleeves are very full, and are of white sarcenet, the same as the apron; they are confined at the wrists by broad black velvet bracelets, fastened by a slide brooch of gold or jewels. The sleeve is surmounted by a bow, and rather long ends of geranium-coloured ribbon. The hair is arranged a la Fantasia, in long curls, rather large, on the left side of the face; the other side is concealed by a very broad long braid plaited, which, after having taken the circle of the head, falls over the right shoulder, and fastened at the upper part of the back of the corsage, is then divided into two plaits, terminated by tassels of hair, formed of tight plaiting in loops; these depend rather lower than the right hip. A plume of black ostrich feathers completes the coiffure. The ear-pendants are en girandoles, and are composed of gold and sapphires. A black velvet collar encircles the neck, just below the throat, in the centre of which is a large sun of gold, with a large valuable pearl. The beautiful little feet of the Spanish ladies, for which they are so justly celebrated, appear to great advantage with this dress: the stockings are of white silk, and the delicate shoe is of celestial blue satin, with the hind quarters of geranium-colour, which colour fastens up the shoe en sandal: pantaloons of geranium sarcenet, made full across the leg, but tight round the ancle, descend just above the sandal- strings.



A dress of lavender-coloured gros de Naples, with a very broad hem round the border, the head slightly vandyked, and finished by chain-work of silk cordon. The body is covered with a canezou spencer of embroidered tulle, with stripes formed of pink satin rouleaux, and the waist encircled by a pink ribbon belt, striped with black in hair-stripes: over the sleeves, which are a l’imbecille, and of the same colour and material as the dress, are frills of very broad white lace, and on each shoulder is also a bow of ribbon with long ends, the same as the belt. Very broad bracelets of gold encircle the wrists, surmounted by a full ruffle of lace, ascending towards the narrow part of the arm. A ruff surrounds the throat, formed of lace and pink satin; and a hat of pink satin is worn with this dress, very much ornamented under the brim with pink satin ribbon and blond, and a full branch of white privet, without foliage, over the right temple. A compact bouquet of flowers is placed in front of the crown; and broad strings of pink satin ribbon, clouded with black, float loose. Half-boots of gros de Naples, the colour of the dress, fringed round the top, and Woodstock gloves, complete this costume.


This dress, which is calculated to receive morning visits of ceremony, and which forms also a genteel home costume for the day, is of sea-green gros de Naples, with a broad hem round the border; falling partly over which is a deep flounce, finished at the edge in points, which are trimmed with a broad fringe, with an elegantly-wrought head, in diamond-work. The body is made high and plain, en fichu, two short points of which are drawn through a belt the same as the dress, fastened in the front with a jasper buckle. The sleeves are a l’imbecille, confined at the wrist by a plain band: double-frilled mancherons surmount the sleeves, of the same material as the dress; and a very full ruff, of several rows of narrow lace, encircles the throat. The head-dress consists of an elegant turban-cap of white crepe-lisse; the folds divided by crossings of white satin ribbon, between which are delicate branches of small field-flowers: very long strings of white striped ribbon float over the shoulders. The slippers are of green satin.

FIG. 1. A turban of white satin, ornamented with blond and pink satin, with white and pink carnations.

FIG. 2. Back-view, In a half-length, of the dress on the centre figure. The stripes on the spencer, the hat, and dress, all of celestial-blue levantine.

Plate the Second

FIG. 1. PROMENADE BONNET, of tourterelle gros de Naples, gathered in the brim en capote: the crown ornamented by bows of ruby-coloured ribbon, edged with green. A light branch of fern is placed on the left side. The brim is ornamented under the right side, with a fan ornament of ruby satin, edged with narrow blond; under the left side are two ring-ornaments of ruby edged with green.
FIG. 2. A back view of the same bonnet of fumee de Londres, trimmed with white and blue striped ribbon, and a fuller branch of fern than that on the tourterelle bonnet.
FIG. 3. A turban of yellow satin, crossed by rouleau-stripes of the same, and crowned by a beautiful plumage of white feathers.
FIG. 4. A crimson velvet turban, ornamented with broad satin ribbon of the same colour, and white feathers.
FIG. 5. A front and side-view of a bonnet for the morning promenade, formed of rows of fluted black satin ribbon, trimmed with grey, or with barbel-blue ribbon, with hair-stripes of black. The lining white satin, with a bandeau of the same ribbon as the trimming, next the hair, and a small bow over each temple.
FIG. 6. A dress-cap of blond, finished next the face by an entwined rouleau of satin, the colour of the damask rose; from thence very broad borders turn back, and reclining against them are branches of small half-opening roses, with their green foliage.
FIG. 7. A back view of the same kind of cap; the ribbon olive-green, striped with black.
FIG. 8. OPERA DRESS. – A dress of white satin, the corsage a yelva, Short full sleeves of blond descend nearly as low as the elbow, where they terminate by a ruffle. Beret of white crape, with two small white feathers, under the right side of the brim: on the left temple reclines a large rosette of white satin, with two very small feathers. One string of pearls, from this ornament, crosses the forehead. The crown of the beret is adorned by a superb plumage of white feathers. The necklace consists of three rows of large pearls, and the ear-pendants are of pear-pearls.
FIG. 9. BALL DRESS. – A petticoat of tulle over white satin, or of a very pale blush-rose colour. Italian corsage of etherial-blue satin, with short full sleeves of white satin. The hair elegantly and simply arranged in light curls and bows, with a full-blown Provence rose, and three gold Glawina pins placed on the right side. A bandeau of gold, with a cameo in the centre, obliquely crosses the top of the forehead. The bracelets differ from each other: that on the left arm is very broad, and is of back velvet, fastened with a cameo, and is secured doubly by a slide-brooch of gold. The left bracelet is much narower, and is formed of jet and gold. The ear-pendants are gold, and a gold chain ornaments the neck.

Plate the Third



A pelisse of Spanish-fly green gros de Naples, fastened down the front of the skirt with papillon rosettes of the same: the body made plain, with lappels turning back, and discovering a fine chemisette of lawn or cambric, laid in plaits, fastened with small ruby buttons: a triple French ruff encircles the throat, under which is tied a fiancee of brocaded silk. The sleeves are a l’Imbecille, with double ruffles, separated by a bracelet of gold and scarlet enamel. A lavender-coloured bonnet of gros de Naples is tastefully ornamented beneath and above the brim with green ribbon striped with white; over the left side depend ends from a rosette, which are finished by a broad rich fringe.
N.B. A half-length figure presents a back view of this dress; the pelisse and hat both of lavender-colour.


A pelisse of cream-coloured gros de Naples over a petticoat of the same; the petticoat discovered by the pelisse being folded back, in partial points down the front of the skirt; and under each of these points from whence they appear, are small bows of ribbon, without ends, the colour of the pelisse; the points are finished at the edge by a rouleau-binding. The body is made quite plain, and fitting tight to the shape; a narrow collar turns back from the throat, which is encircled by a triple ruff of tulle. The sleeves are a la Donna Maria, and the fulness at the narrow part confined by the loop which ascends from the wrist to the bend of the arm, where a small rosette terminates the puckering. A tight wristband-cuff finishes the sleeve next the hand. A Cachemire scarf, the colour of the red orange, is worn with this pelisse; the border is in various colours at the ends on a white gauze, and the fringe, the colour of the scarf, are admirable. The bonnet is of autumnal-green gros de Naples, ornamented with puffings of the same, and ribbon of a similar colour, striped with Modena-red, in rich brocade. The half-boots are of cream-coloured kid.


FIG. 1. – Back and front view of a head-dress in hair, arranged in bows and curls, with strings of pearls, scarlet poppies, and blue-bells; both field-flowers.
FIG. 2. – Centre figures between the coiffeure above described, representing a back and front view of an elegant turban-cap of tulle and blond, intermingled with loops of celestial-blue ribbon, striped with black; on the hair, next the face, are ears of ripe Indian corn. This turban-cap is for the evening party, and is worn with a Palmyrene dress, made low, and trimmed round the bust with a double falling tucker of rich blond; a broader blond forms a mancheron over the sleeves a la Psyche. The sleeves are a l’Amadis, quite tight to the bend of the arm, and only full as they approach the elbow, and finish at the shoulder.

Plate the Fourth

This costume, which representation of was unavoidably detained by the engraver, has been by mistake denominated a walking dress; it consists of an Indian taffety, delicately painted in lozenge diamonds, in outline. A broad hem surrounds the border, and next the shoe are two rouleaux, one straight, the other scalloped; these are divided by a very narrow rouleau of blue satin. On the broad hem, which ascends nearly as high as the knee, are ornaments en scie, placed rather wide apart, surmounted by a row of ornaments representing strawberry leaves, and finished like the jagged edges of the Florence-like ornaments, with scarlet and green satin; some ladies prefer blue; either is equally fashionable. The body is made plain and low, and has a drawn tucker of blond across the bust. Beneath this tucker is a cape-collar, forming one large scalop in front of the bust; and cleft in points on each shoulder, where they form mancherons over sleeves a la Mameluke, of white blond; these are confined at the wrist by a narrow cuff of white satin, above which is a coronet bracelet of gold. The collar-capes are trimmed round with narrow blond, and rouleaux of scarlet satin. The head-dress is a turban of white crepe-lisse, the folds interspersed with bows of blue or green satin ribbon; with strings of the same, floating loose. The ear-pendants and necklace are of pearls.


A habit of bright emerald green; the body ornamented with rows of small black buttons, set very close together. The sleeves are full at the top, but sit almost tight to the narrower part of the arm. The collar is like that on a man’s coat, and is of black velvet; over that of the chemisette is worn a black satin stock, surrounding which, next the face, is a narrow full frill of cambric lace, or fine clear lawn. The hat is of black beaver, with a light green veil. The half-boots are of black kid, and over them are pantaloons, exactly like those worn by gentlemen, and fastening under the foot, like theirs, by a strap. The gloves are of doeskin.



Dress of white satin, made low, with drawn tucker of broad blond. The hair arranged in front a la Madonna: on the summit of the head are three long puffs of hair; in front of which is a tiara of gold and large pearls.
FIG. 1. Beret of pink satin; on the right side, beneath the brim, an ornament of tulle, edged with blond, forming a large rosette, on which are branches of heath, and a few ends of pink satin ribbon. Under the brim, on the left side, is a small white ostrich feather. Pink esprits, and white plumage, are elegantly dispersed over the crown.
FIG. 2. Back view of the same coiffeure.
FIG. 3. Back view of a dress-hat of etherial blue, or of emerald-green satin, ornamented with white ribbon and white feathers.
FIG. 4. (At the base of the plate) – A beret of ruby-coloured gros de Naples velvet, with marabouts and white ostrich feathers, intermingled beneath the brim, and taking a spiral direction towards the crown. A few small feathers fastened together, fall over the left side of the brim.


The empire of Fashion is a most despotic government; she rules over the wisest at her pleasure; nor does she heed, in her various caprices, how ridiculous she may make her subjects appear: let it be marked, however, at the same time, how great is her power! Like a skilful magician, she can transform, by a touch of her wand, what seems almost ugly, at a first glance, into what is beautiful, for she has the fascinating art of rendering it really so; particularly when her two High Priestesses, Good Taste, and Elegant Fancy, lend their aid in attiring the modern belle.
Nothing is reckoned now more appropriate for fire-side costume or for the morning walk, than a dress of fine Merino, made nearly as high as the throat, of a slate- colour: these dresses are made very plain and simple tight to the shape, and fitting close to the bust; but at the back the body is finished slightly en gerbe. A broad hem surrounds the border of the skirt, headed by a narrow fancy rouleau of the same material as the dress. The sleeves are a l’Amadis, with the gauntlet-cuff very deep, and finished by one conspicuous point on the outside of the arm. Some of these comfortable winter-dresses, when a very superior quality, have been seen trimmed with Cachemire, and are truly and strikingly elegant. A favorite dress for friendly evening parties and dinners, is of a bright geranium-coloured gros de Naples, with two deep flounces, pointed, and set on in festoons: the corsage is a Yelva, and forming also, by means of Italian net drapery, the same colour as the dress, and bound with satin, fichu-robings. The sleeves are in the Amadis form, but not very wide at the top: a gauntlet cuff finishes them at the wrist. Many dresses are made square in the back, and are pointed in front; all dresses which are low are very much cut away from the shoulders, discovering also much of the back and bust: when the sleeves are short, they are short indeed, leaving the arm almost bare. The fringes used in trimming dresses are beginning to increase in favor; we have been astonished at finding this very elegant accessory so tardy in its progress. Satin dresses, in the Bavarian-robe style, are much admired for evening parties; the false petticoat is of velvet the same colour as the satin, and is finished down the front with small butterflies of fillagree gold, with their wings expanded. A most lovely dress has lately been completed by Mrs. BELL, for a young lady possessed of high hereditary talents; it is of white satin, covered over with fine lace. Gros de Naples, as a very appropriate demi-saison article, is much worn in evening dress. But few ball-dresses have come under our inspection; they are of white tulle or coloured crape; the former worn over white, the latter over a satin slip, the same colour as the crape.
Cloaks form, at present, the most favorite out-door envelope: some are superb; one of violet-coloured satin we found extremely beautiful; it was lined throughout with white gros de Naples, and trimmed all round with unspotted ermine, of the most dazzling whiteness; the pelerine cape was also made of this costly material. Another cloak, very similar to this, is of puce-coloured gros de Naples, lined with white, and the ermine, which trims it, is spotted in the usual manner. Cloaks of gros de Naples, made very plain, and only conspicuous, when of black or dark shades, by being lined with some striking colour, are very generally worn at the morning promenade. We have seen a pelisse made of the new material gros de Chine; the ground was of a French white, and the stripes were of rich shades, from bright red to black ; it was made with a very large pelerine cape, turning back like that on a man’s great- coat; the sleeves were quite in the jigot style: as the lady on whom we saw this envelope was one of high fashion, lately arrived from Paris, we may guess from whence this fashion originated; though it had a peculiar appearance, it was very becoming, and well fitted to the open carriage, as the material itself is warm, and the pelisse well wadded throughout.
A very beautiful new bonnet is of figured satin of a bright rose-colour; the pattern in zig-zag stripes ; it is trimmed with ribbons of black and rose-colour, with a feather- fringe of the same shades. A black velvet autumnal bonnet is ornamented with green, and a long branch of green foliage with delicate flowers of the same verdant tint, is exquisitely wrought; it crosses the crown obliquely, and recline partly over the brim. A bonnet of Spanish-brown satin is trimmed with satin ribbon, the colour Oiseau de Paradis, and disposed in long loops; black Heron’s feathers complete the ornaments on this tasteful bonnet. A second bonnet of velvet is of plaid, the tints dark green and red, forming the checquers on a black ground; it is very elegantly trimmed with ornaments of the same material, relieved by satin ribbon, corresponding in colours to the plaid velvet. A favorite material for carriage hats, especially for paying bridal visits, is white satin, beautifully figured en coquilles. Another bonnet for the carriage is of figured blue satin; the design, a running pattern of ivy-leaves: the bonnet is trimmed with gauze ribbon, white, with a white satin stripe in the centre, and edged with a delicate brocade stripe of black and yellow. Roses, of a fancy kind, full blown, half green, half yellow, and made of feathers, tastefully dispersed, complete the ornaments.
The colours most in request are scarlet, cornflower-blue, yellow, autumnal-green, and violet-colour.


HATS AND BONNETS. – Bonnets of satin are ornamented with gauze ribbons, and have a demi-veil of blond. Some bonnets of open straw are lined with green, and ornamented with figured ribbon of green gauze. When flowers are placed on chip or crape hats, they are generally formed into a half-wreath, which is fastened on one side by two or three bows of ribbon, and the other side reclines on the brim. Crape hats are generally of steam colour, and are ornamented with green branches; several bonnets of white gros de Naples, are finished by bindings of lilac satin, with which material they are also lined. At the Bois de Boulogne was seen a charming hat of leghorn, adorned with a bouquet of small feathers of various colours, The gauze ribbons were of Scotch plaid. Hats of dark blue and dark green gros de Naples, and those of brown, are trimmed with very striking ribbons as to colour and contrast to the hat, such as white on green, rose-colour on blue, and yellow on brown.
Bonnets of white satin are ornamented at the edge of the brim with a demi-veil of blond, and are seen in carriages on the heads of some of the first ladies of fashion. Some very pretty hats of English green satin, lined with white and ornamented with white Dahlias, have also been much admired; hats of white satin are often lined with rose-colour, and over the hat fell branches of roses in full bloom, and a deep blond is placed at the edge of the brim; this hat is much in use for morning visits.
In ornamenting hats are often seen flowers, grouped together in bouquets; these are called bouquets a la Princesse: they are round, and almost compact. Two of these bouquets form the trimming; one is placed in the centre of the crown, in front, the other under the brim, on the left side .
Straw bonnets a l’Anglaise, lined with cherry-colour, and ribbons of the same hue, form the favourite head- covering at the Tuilleries.
Almost all the new hats, whether of satin, gros de Naples, or figured velvet, have broad stripes of rose-colour, blue, white, yellow and lilac; all on the same material. Such stripes are also seen of figured gauze, which are used for bonnets and berets. On some satin hats the figures are in damask, of a zig-zag pattern. With the striped hats are generally worn one or two branches of cocks’ feathers of various colours; these branches are in the form of large tulips placed one above the other.
Bonnets for the carriages and those worn at the sitting of the institute, are of bright blue or rose-colour. White hats, also, with weeping-willow feathers, of white and violet-colour. One plume was remarked, for having in the centre of its arch, a small, round tuft of white feathers, tipt with violet-colour. The ribbons were white, spotted with violet. A hat of Leghorn was ornamented by a long branch of the Jericho-rose. Among the flowers Joy and Clematis seemed much in favour.
Hats of satin, the colour Chrysoprate (a light green), are lined with black satin, and ornamented with tassel-fringe-feathers, of green and black. Hats of blue, watered gros de Naples have also black linings and blue and black feathers fastened together.
Hats of plain pluche de soie, are trimmed with ribbons having broad stripes, purple on white, or green on violet; some hats of black satin are lined with ponceau satin striped with black en musique. Some fashionists now place a ruche under the brim of a hat, instead of over it. Many bonnets have appeared of white satin with broad blue stripes; they are trimmed with light blue ribbon, on which is brocaded small wreaths of flowers in white.

OUT-DOOR COSTUME. – Nothing can be more troublesome to walk with, than those dresses with a demi-train, called Amazones; therefore the fashionable Parisian lady, when she has to make a visit in the country, rides on horseback, in a dress of the usual walking length. Her pantaloons are made quite plain; her half-boots either brown or black.
Some ladies have their pelisses made with a cape, like that of a man’s coat; it is very large and is pointed at the ends. The corsages of the pelisse fit tight to the shape, but have various kinds of ornaments across the bust. It is expected that Brandenburghs will be very general this winter on pelisses.
Several pelisses are in preparation of Cachemire; they are of light colours, with a border of about three fingers’ breadth over the broad hem, and the same bordering round a double pelerine cape. The sleeves are narrow at the lower part of the arm, and terminate at the wrist by a double embroidered cuff. These pelisses are lined with white gros de Naples, and are worn open in front of the skirt; some ladies of fashion belonging to the higher classes wear petticoats of white gros de Naples under coloured silk pelisses, and even under deshabille pelisses of muslin.
The first wadded wrapping pelisses which have appeared, have a broad hem at the border, and one narrower down each side in front: at the head of the hem is placed a very narrow bias fold, finished on each side by a narrow binding. Two or three bias folds, of a similar kind placed at about a finger’s breadth from each other, terminate the end of the sleeves and fasten the plaits together, which give an elegant finish to this kind of pelisse when in silk; from the wristband ascend five bias folds as high as to the middle of the arm; the sleeves are visibly much narrower at the lower part of the arm.
Gowns, when adopted for promenade dresses, are of stuff, or other materials of fine wool; the corsage is entirely covered with a pelerine of four points; those which fall over the shoulders form epaulettes to the sleeves.
The sleeves are excessively wide at the top, but are made tight to the arm from the elbow to the wrist. Pelerines worn with ladies’ mantles are of black, blue, or green satin; they descend very low and are ornamented with a fringe.
At the races at the Champ de Mars, several ladies were seen in satin pelisses; and riding-habits disputed the palm of hardihood and lightness with groups of horsemen; they wore pantaloons of white, black boots, and black cravats. Some had collars the same as those of the gentlemen. A narrow quilling was placed over the black cravat next the face. The chemisettes were of plaited lawn, and one was seen with a frill.
All the new cloaks have enormous capes, coming below the elbow; these capes are trimmed with fringe. On several cloaks are seen full sleeves; these are open at the inside of the arm, and fall behind like the Polish sleeves.

DRESSES. Above the fringes which ornament dresses of gros de Naples, are often seen bouquets of flowers, embroidered in silk. With a petticoat of coloured gros de Naples is worn a muslin canezou spencer, laid in very small plaits, for home costume. Some of these spencers are, however, laid in plaits of a finger’s breadth, placed at equal distances from each other. These plaits form a kind of fan on the front of the bust, and on the back, and are placed in bias on the sleeves. Some dresses of white organdy have, above the hem, three or four rows of large spots, embroidered in different shades of green. Muslin dresses, with very narrow stripes, are of a clear kind, and are of steam-colour; they are ornamented above the hem, and next the feet, with a narrow Mechlin lace, set on full. A square pelerine of the same material is worn with these dresses, edged round with narrow Mechlin lace.
Long sleeves have the tops formed en Basile, – it was not long ago that they were made quite flat; to render them so, the dress-makers placed lower, every day, the plaits at the back part. Some canezous have been seen, with the sleeves having two rows of these points formed into a band, in the place where the epaulette was made to descend.
In the work-rooms of the most celebrated dress-makers, they are now occupied with the manner of cutting the sleeves. For dresses of winter materials, it is in contemplation to have them very narrow at the small part of the arm; gauzes, and other light stuffs, will continue to be made with large sleeves like those now worn. On velvet or satin they are still very wide, from the shoulder to the elbow, where they fall en Amadis, which composes the rest of the sleeve to the wristband. The fashion of plain boddices continues.
With deshabille dresses, especially those of silk and stuff, it is customary to wear a pelerine of the same, trimmed round with a broad frill-trimming; the corsage is plain, and the skirt, instead of being gathered full round the waist, is laid in large plaits. Muslin dresses are embroidered in feather-stitch, in very large bouquets; they are worn at friendly evening parties, and are bordered by one broad flounce, set on in festoons. In each scalop of the flounce, formed by the festoon, is a bouquet, corresponding with those worked on the dress. Where the flounce separates, are seen seven or eight rouleaux of white gros de Naples, and the same ornaments surmount the flounce. The sleeves are short, and en berets. The body is trimmed with a beautiful Mechlin lace.
Dresses of white organdy, and of muslin, with those of Cachemire, are prevalent at the theatre, as are chintzes. Several ladies have appeared at the Tuilleries, in dresses of silk and stuff, called gros de Chine. They are made very short.
Gold and silver fringes will be worn with dresses of crape; and a fringe of white beads is in preparation, to be placed on a dress of cherry-coloured velvet. Tunic robes, also, of crape, gauze, and other light materials, are expected to be much in vogue for evening dresses.
The name of papillon is given to the three rosettes, with very short ends, of satin, which are placed, instead of gold buttons, to fasten the sleeve together, where it has been cut open. The new trimmings for dresses, whether for the promenade, for dancing assemblies, or for dress evening parties, are composed of a resemblance of the yew tree, which ascends its pointed head from the hem next the feet, to the knees; similar points, but smaller in proportion, descend from where the dress is cut away round the neck, over the bust, the back, and the shoulders. These lengthened triangles, sometimes straight, sometimes reversed, are formed of large puffs, and are adopted, either as narrow flounces with two heads, or double ruches, pinked, whether formed of two strips, or of bands appliquee.
There are some new materials for dresses, named Allambras, Pactolines, and Japonnaises; these beautiful tissues are thought to form a fine relief to the jewellery worn with them. The King of Siam is also another new and original material for dresses, which takes its name from its pattern, which, it is said, has been copied from that on the King of Siam’s mantle. To correspond with this dignified style of fashion, it is requisite that the winter tissues should be rather grave, and imposing in their appearance; the fine Lyonese velvet, and a beautiful texture, in which is interwoven gold or silver, and the silk often painted in flowers of various colours, in flowers, branches, and a multiplicity of other designs. Tunics, embroidered or painted, forming the most beautiful dresses for balls and evening parties; Ispahan velvet, and robes of Cachemire, bordered with variegated palm leaves.
Among a select number of new silks, is the Meletaline, half silk, half worsted, for half-dress; Barazinkoff Egyptian, Merino Egyptian, spotted chaly, Dauphiness-poplin, and toile de Bombay.
The sleeves named Imbecilles, a la Basile, a la Religeuse, a la Turque, in a word, all those wide sleeves which have been worn for these six months past, are decreasing in size daily, and seem likely to be soon abolished. The Amadis sleeve, worn at present, fits close to the smaller part of the arm, from the elbow to the wrist; the upper part of the sleeve, however, is very capacious, and cuts quite as much into the silk, as when the sleeve was of equal width; the top of the present sleeve being of the same piece with the Amadis. The blond, crape, and slight materials of which long sleeves are made, to wear with coloured dresses, yet preserve the fashion of being equally wide from the shoulder to the wrist.
Figured stuffs are much in request; they are made with stomachers, or plaited drapery across the bust, with an ornament at the head of the broad hem on the border of the skirt.
At some evening parties have been seen pelisse-robes of white crape, embroidered at the border in white silk. The sleeves a l’Amadis, fastened from the bend of the arm to the wrist, by a row of buttons, forming a finish to a
quilling of narrow blond, which appeared as if falling over the opening. The corsage fitted close, and was confined round the throat by a narrow binding, covered by two rows of a large gold chain. The sash consisted of a broad white ribbon, tied in front. On the head was worn a large beret, made very simple, ornamented by puffs of ribbon; though some ladies, in this delicate costume, wear their hair only crossed over with a chain a la Chevaliere.
Morning dresses are often of red, green or blue, figured over in a running pattern; they are made square in the back with a stomacher in front. Some dresses of gros de Naples have the sleeves laid in large plaits, from the shoulder to the elbow. A wristband confines these sleeves at their termination; the rest of the sleeve sits close.
Some ladies of fashion have wrapping dresses, made of stuff, and large enough to be worn over another gown in home costume, of a smarter kind.
At the Concert d’Emulation, two dresses were remarked, one of slate-coloured gros de Naples, the other of figured Merino, of a violet-colour; both these dresses had sleeves a la Donna Maria, very tight at the smaller part of the arm. The flounce of this dress, as well as the square pelerine worn with it, were plaited.

HEAD-DRESSES. In the last head-dresses which were introduced for dress-balls and public spectacles, chains a la Chevaliere were very prevalent, they crossed the forehead, the bows, and the curls of the hair: young persons continue to have their hair arranged either in the English or the Chinese style.
At several dress-parties have been seen blond caps, ornamented on the right side, with three long white feathers.
Berets of silk, striped in yellow and black, or in gauze of royal-blue and gold, are ornamented with two tails of the bird of paradise, one on each side.
At the first performance of a new piece, lately represented at the Opera-buffa, the greater part of the ladies, who wore their hair, had alternate puffs of hair and ribbon: in front were a few corkscrew ringlets, a l’Anglaise. Some blond caps were ornamented in front with a diadem of flowers. On other caps were flowers which formed on each side a half-circle, over which fell a trimming of blond.
Dress-hats are of white gros de Naples, with the crown extremely low, and are ornamented with white willow feathers.
At the theatres, head-dresses in hair are without any ornament: but dress-caps are very much in favour. The stiffness and formality of the corkscrew ringlets make them always appear like false hair.
At evening dress-parties, where any ornaments are added to the hair, flowers are the favourite accessories. A plait of hair is formed of ten branches, which, placed on the summit of the head, appears like a basket. From thence ascend very light puffs of hair, almost transparent, where bows and flowers with long stalks are fixed.
Caps of black blond are a novelty ; they are ornamented with white embroidery.

JEWELLERY. Chains a la Chevaliere are often seen ornamenting the hair, at evening dress parties.
The ear-rings of the last new fashion are either of gold or of various coloured gems; they are so extremely heavy, that a lady who implicitly follows this its height, never wears them except till she has deferred putting them in her ears to the last moment, when she is going to the theatre or to a full dress evening party: they are even obliged to have a tiny piece of silk concealed behind the lap of the ear; an artifice revived from our great grandmothers, who were accustomed to wear large girandole ear-pendants.

MISCELLANEOUS. Under-stockings, of fine and almost transparent Scotch thread; many ladies of fashion wear a pair of rose-coloured hose.
Gloves are fastened at the wrists by a double button, either of gold or jewels.
In general the Parisian females are not remarkable for the fulness of their busts, but they are well made about the ancles. The fashion of wearing their dresses so very short, explains itself, in a city where we find every female making the adornment of her legs and feet an important study. As for the vogue of open and low-made corsages, that is, indeed, surprising.
Almost all the reticules have a silk net on them. This belongs to a fringe which trims the opening, and a false pocket, hollowed out in a strap, like the semicircles over a pistol-case of a cavalry officer.
Shower-baths are beginning to be very fashionable; and, as every thing which bears the stamp of novelty must be extolled, it is asserted that they act in a much more favourable maaner than immersion in water, which often causes a languor that is never felt after the shower-bath.
Since the commodious size of the Palais Royal has been restored, and that every arcade is better lighted, ladies now go in the evening to make their purchases, as is usual at the time of the New-year’s gifts.
A charming invention, the result of which will become the production of one of the prettiest ornaments of the chimney-piece and the boudoir, has just taken place amongst the attributes of taste and fashion, and offers even to the ladies an employment as diversified as it is amusing. It consists of a new process of taking off on wood every kind of drawing by a most simple method: by dipping, for one instant, in pure, clear water, an engraving, a plain or coloured lithography, and then stretching it out over a thin sheet of white wood, such as holly, sycamore, or of the linden-tree, and, in a second after, taking it carefully off, the paper being yet moist, will retain the engraving, or the lithographic design. It is astonishing to see, re-produced, and deposed on the wood, every feature, shade, and line to the very smallest lineament of the design in question, and with going over, with a pencil, the surface of the sheet of wood, a very pretty screen may be produced, or a box to contain gloves or needle-work, a writing-desk, or an ele- gant and useful basket. By this process may, also, be avoided those inconveniences attending the tediousness of painting on wood; and the portraits of a family may be perpetuated without confiding them to the engraver or the lithographer.
The shoes are square-toed, and without rosettes. Black half-boots are becoming very general. Slippers of Cachemire are still reckoned truly elegant. Some shoes of brown kid, highly glazed, have been remarked at the Tuilleries; the hind quarters are cut very low.
Among the silk stockings that women of fashion wear with chintz dresses, or those of gros de Chine, are white with very large ribs, alternately close, and of open-work.
Several ladies, who dance at the Ranelagh balls, have taken the trouble to write on their cards the country dances they have performed. It is now so many trophies attached to the Psyche mirror in their bed-chamber.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

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