Newest London and Paris Fashions for February 1825

Evening Dress, Invented by Mrs Bell of 32 St James’s Street, Engraved exclusively for the World of Fashion


A dress of rose-coloured gros de Naples, trimmed at the border with full and long puffings, in two distinct rows; the puffs are fluted, which imparts a richness to this novel kind of ornament. The body fits close to the shape, and is ornamented lengthwise, down the bust, with rouleaux of satin, dividing en gerbe, and brought together in a point under the belt. The sleeves fit nearly close to the arm, and are surmounted by very full but plain mancherons; at the wrists are worn broad gold bracelets, fastened with a cameo. A very narrow tucker of Vandyke blond surrounds the bust. The head-dress consists of a full dress cap, in the form of a fichu, of tulle and blond, brought in a point on the forehead, and the hair, which is arranged in very full curls, is ornamented on the right side, with one large, full-blown Provence rose, with its foliage; and, in front of the cap, is another rose, placed rather backward, yet entirely seen in front.

Ball Dress, Invented by Mrs Bell, 32, St James’s Street, Engraved exclusively for the World of Fashion


Over a white satin slip, a beautiful dress of gauze, of a shot lavender colour; the colour formed of grey lilac and pink intermingled, which combination imparts the most delightful gleam, that is particularly attractive by candle-light. The border of the gauze dress is ornamented on the hem, with a rich rouleau of amethyst-coloured satin, indented in diamonds; an ornament perfectly novel, and well deserving the attention of Ladies of taste and elegance. Over this are three rouleaux of satin of the same brilliant purple, set on in festoons: the points confined by full bouquets of yellow china-astres, without foliage. The corsage is plain, but is finished round the bust and at the back, with the same gauze as the dress bouillone and the fulness confined by rouleaux of amethyst-coloured satin. The sleeves are short, full, and bouillones; the puckerings confined in bias, by rouleaux of amethyst satin. A sash of the same chaste and lovely colour encircles the waist, with a handsome rosette behind the short ends. The hair is arranged very high, on the summit of the head, and the loftier part brought rather forwarder than usual. The full curls on each side of the face are brought nearly as low as the tip of the ear; the rest of the tresses are disposed in braids and bands, intermixed with gold chain-work, finely wrought, and yellow china-astres.


The lengthened light of day is now become visible, and the fashionable morning airings in Hyde Park, have commenced: from three to half past four, when the weather is propitious, we behold the gay and elegant throngs pass, in brilliant succession, exhibiting all that attraction which is inherent in their fair forms, by the aids of invention and …

There has been but little alteration in the … of bonnets, or in the style of their ornament, except that those made exclusively for the … especially for the morning visits of ceremony are of smaller dimensions than those which are … appropriated to carriage airings or the promenade. One of these tasteful dress bonnets, which is peculiarly deserving of admiration was of … coloured velvet, crowned with blush roses, and … plumes of the tropic bird, which feathers seemed to issue from the roses, and played gracefully over the front, and a part of the brim. We have seen a black velvet bonnet, worn by a lady of fashion, in the ancient cottage form, and so becoming, that we are pleased to see …

The out-door coverings for the head, are not much thought of during the time that … glories are chiefly exhibited by candle-light: … carriages are still closed, and the hours devoted to shopping and snatching a few fleeting … of day, in leading the younger branches of … through what morning lounges are at present open, give but little scope for the display of that … which constitutes the most modish for the … department. The head dresses, however, … time of the day, and every style of dress … beautiful; for the morning deshabille, the cornette is of a richly figured blond, finished at … in points a la Vandyck, next to the face, and … about the head piece, with numerous little … figured ribbonl the ground yellow, spotted at the edge with scarlet: the dejeune cornette, … Mechlin, and often of Urling’s lace, and is … with shaded striped ribbon; the colours, … lemon colour, jonquil and orange. The cornette for receiving dinner parties is often of blond, of a Vandyck pattern, ornamented with detached bouquets of various kinds of flower … theatre cornette has the appearance of a turban, were it not for its very long lappets, which are generally fastened under the chin: they are of pink gauze, in bias folds, and is charmingly … with flowers; in front is a delicate … the Catalonian jessamine; and on the … on each side are lillies of the valley or … wall flowers: on the hair, on each side, rests a flower, one a simple Indian rose … foliage, on the other a bunch of pink … the hair well arranged, and much taste in the … it on, is required with this head dress, … it appropriate for the evening. A coro… for full dress parties, is a very elegant coiffure, formed of white satin and rows of pearls; the … or circlet part is mural, and the indentings, which are bent downwards, are edged round with pearls and from each dependant square, hangs a small pear pearl, which has a most unique and splendid effect: small white feathers float over the front of this superb head dress. A black velvet dress hat, is also admired for evening parties, ornamented with gold cordon, and acorn tassels; this is crowned with a magnificent plume of white ostrich feathers. A Russian cap of black velvet also, enriched with pearls, or with gold cordon, with a full plume of pink feathers is much in favour.

Among the coloured chintzes now so prevalent for morning costume, we cannot forbear citing one, which we found peculiarly striking; the pattern being the most beautiful we have ever yet seen; and so disposed, as to have that effect on the texture, that it is almost impossible, except by the touch, to distinguish it from a French silk: the ground is a pale yellow, and the figures consist of narrow stripes in waves of a straw’s breadth, and about an inch and a half distant from each other; these are of massacca brown; between these stripes are shaded spots, about the size of a shilling, very close to each other, of purple and scarlet, lightly sprinkled over with shagreen spots, so small, that they are scarce visible, but on a close inspection; but they add much to the softening of the shades; and, at a distance, the pattern has the appearance of a fancy plaid. This dress is made high, en demi blouse, and the sleeves fit close to the arm: the border of the skirt is trimmed with nine very narrow flounces, set close together, but distinct. A high dress of scarlet, real cachemire, is a favourite gown for home costume: it is trimmed with gros de Naples, and satin of the same colour: two pointed flounces, reversed, of gros de Naples, the points edged with silk cordon ornament the border. The corsage is bounillone, in front, and the puckerings confined by satin straps across: the mancherons quartered like a melon, in alternate divisions of cachemire and satin: round the throat is an ornament of double points, which forms a kind of collar, and corresponds with the trimmings at the border of the skirt, being of gros de Naples, and finished with silk cordon, in a similar manner. A Bavarian robe of puce-coloured gros de Naples, delicately sprigged, is also a half dress that has been much approved; the tablier part is improved by an elegant finish to the satin straps that confine its slight puckering; the straps being terminated by short fringe tassels: the corsage is made partially high, and is formed almost entirely of folds of satin, very little of the gros de Naples appearing between. The sleeves are of the same material as the robe, made full, but confined at equal distances, all the way from the wrist to the shoulder, with very narrow bands of satin. An evening dress of striped gauze, just completed for a lady of distinction, lately fell under our notice, which is a beautiful specimen of taste, and well adapted to the season, by the charming glow of its colours, and the elegant style of its make. The ground is of a bright geranium colour, with stripes of shaded satin, orange-tawney and jonquil. Over the hem is a broad, full rouleau of jonquil satin, above which are large puffs, in festoons, of buffont drapery, of ponceau and jonquil gauze; each puff, which is very long, being brought together, of the two different colours, and confined by rings of fluted jonquil satin; the corsage fastens behind, and is made a la Vierge, except that a drapery folds across the bust, and ornaments the sleeves, to correspond with that on the petticoat.

Pelisses of velvet and gros de Naples, the former trimmed with the most costly furs, in various ingenious patterns are still in high request; it is wonderful to see the figures in which it is disposed, but we sincerely wish the furriers had not destroyed the genuine beauty of their valuable furs by mingling them in the fanciful way they have done this season. To the dress-maker who forms foliage and flowers, from the glossy black lynx, the chaste and lovely brown of the unmixed sable, the silvery grey of the American squirrel, and the uncontaminated ermine, every praise is due for the novel idea. But, we trust the furriers will leave off the regular patch-work of white diamonds in the grey squirrel, or black waves on the little zibeline, making that truly valuable skin to have something the appearance of that of the Norway rat.

At a ball given at a gentleman’s country house a few miles from London, a very short time ago, were seen some very superb as well as tasteful dresses that wee equally admirable for their elegant simplicity; and before we dismiss the subject of fashionable intelligence, we shall mention two or three that most struck us, and which promise most likely to be exclusively adopted by the higher classes. Par excellence, we first mention a tunic robe of amaranthine velvet, trimmed with broad white blond, of a most superb pattern: the petticoat which the robe partially discovered in front was a white satin, richly trimmed with flounces of blond. The hair, elegantly arranged, was ornamented with a diadem of brilliants; behind which was the favourite little neglige fichu, now so much the rage, scattered over, at the back part with roses of paradise. The body of the dress, according to the present mode, was the same as the skirt, but being diversified by a white satin stomacher and a falling tucker of blond, it had not the least heaviness in appearance; and the tunic robes, which are now very fashionable, are well adapted to velvet, which, especially at balls, looks better in such fancy dresses, than in those that are round. The other velvet dress was also a tunic robe with a white satin petticoat; the velvet dress was black, splendidly trimmed with gold cordon in Vandyck points with tassels and fringe; and the sleeves, which were long, were finished at the wrists with Vandyck points of exquisitely fine white lace, in the old English style; an ornament of which fell over the bust, which was beautifully relieved by the above-mentioned lace, and by a white satin stomacher. Amongst the hair were entwined pearls and white roses, in the most elegant and tasteful manner, though, seemingly,

“Wild, without rule or art.”

Though we do not admire black for the ball room, yet this last-mentioned dress, with one of fine black tulle attracted universal admiration, especially as we were given to understand that the two ladies were in the last stage of mourning. The black tulle dress was an Arcadian robe over satin, and was richly trimmed in bias folds of satin, as high as the knee, which were disposed in tasteful wavings, and scattered over with roses; this caused the most charming effect, when the robe was partially looped up, by the roses appearing as if they ornamented the petticoat of satin worn underneath. Pearl combs and roses adorned the hair. The young persons had, many of them, clear muslin dresses of fine India Bocca, over white satin or gros de Naples; indeed the very, young were all in white: gauze or of figured tulle: where the robe was of this form, a few simple flowers, to keep up the classical costume of Arcadia, were scattered among the tresses, but many young ladies had no other ornaments on their heads, but their own fine hair, beautifully arranged, and gave proof of the attractions belonging to youth’s early bloom;-

“Unadorn’d, adorn’d the most.”

We were just about closing our observations, when we had the advantage of inspecting a beautiful carriage pelisse, just completed for a lady who ranks high in fashionable life. The pelisse is of blush-red gros de Naples lined with a rich white sarcenet, and trimmed at the hem with a double rouleau; down the sides of the skirt, in front, and representing plumage, beautifully embossed, and formed of such narrow rouleaux, that it appears light, as well as costly. The collar is half falling, scalloped at the edge, and elegantly ornamented with chain-work of narrow rouleaux. The sleeves are peculiarly novel and elegant; they are only of a moderate width, yet without mancherons, and are finished down the outside of the arm, from the shoulders to the wrist, with united diamonds, ingeniously formed of chains of narrow rouleaux; and the seams of the body are ornamented in a correspondent manner.

The favourite colours are jonquil, pink, scarlet, orange-tawney, amaranth, and massacca brown.


SEVERAL ladies wear at balls, black crape dresses sprinkled all over with bugles: others have a slight embroidery at the border in polished steel. Black dresses are most elegant among women of fashion, with which, at the Opera Buffa, have been seen white hats and those of rose colour.

Pelerines have been invented, made of marabout feathers, these have a very distinguished appearance.

Turbans are of gauze with the crowns of velvet; they are more in vogue than ever: on toques are placed two aigrettes; one near the ear, which falls over the neck.

Hats of black velvet or satin, have succeeded to those of gros de Naples; the brim flies off the face; the trimming them with bows of the same material as the hat, yet continues.

Wreaths of flowers are the sole ornaments on the hair of young ladies. At the public spectacles has appeared a new head-dress, called a beret: at evening parties, toques and turbans are preferred.

On several hats is seen so broad a blond at the edge, that it forms a demi-veil, this blond, however, should not be more than a hand’s breadth.

The disposal of marabouts and other feathers is decisive of the manner most proper for the toques or berets. At the opera a lady was seen with the beret covered entirely on one side by a plume of marabouts, the end of every feather standing upright: the other part of the beret, which was black velvet was quite uncovered.

Half dress gowns are trimmed with fur; some are trimmed down each side, like an open pelisse, the ends of these two rows of fur are lost in the upper border that surrounds the skirt.

At the concert given in the rue de Clery, for the benefit of an Italian artist’s widow, there was, among several other very remarkable head-dresses, a velvet toque, which was ornamented with three rosettes of velvet, and twelve marabouts, four between each rosette. Several toques of black crape were sprinkled with stars, others were covered with a net-work in bugles, and most of them ornamented with three flat feathers. On small dress caps, made very flat on the head, were seen the flowers called snow-balls, on others marabouts, placed arch-wise, the ends being bent together, so as to form a kind of bower. Young persons wore only their own hair, or a hat of white pluche de soie, ornamented with satin rosettes. Moabitish toques of rose coloured satin, fasten under the chin. Some velvet dress hats are ornamented with gold.

Turbans and toques are confined to every day wear, or to the public spectacles – for a ball or concert, ladies of fashion have their turbans, their flowers or their feathers … by the hands of the hair-dresser. At balls, and at social parties, wreaths of gold or silver, are often mingled in the hair, and entwined among gauze or velvet. … also, made of different coloured gems, are a favourite … dress for young ladies.

Deshabille hats are of dark colours, and are trimmed at the edge of the brim with a broad blond: the crowns are … trimmed with satin rosettes, and often with those … pluche de soie. There are many white hats now to … they are fastened with two strings of crape, with … at each ear: underneath the hat is a half wreath … flowers.

Several dress gowns are of white barege, grey, … they are trimmed with folds of satin, and three … chenille.

Some maltese collars are of organdy, or of clear muslin, made very stff, they are embroidered with black, in … stitch.

For ball dresses, young persons wear blouse-robes of Organdy, embroidered with black crewel: these embroidered … fill up the spaces between broad bias folds.

On those days, when the weather has been less … it has been for some time, some fashionable ladies have been remarked walking in the Thuilleries. They were in pelisses of velvet, either black, violet, or dark green, they were trimmed with chinchilla or black marten; with long … of the same fur, which covered the back, and with … broad over the shoulders: these pelerine tippets were … with gold claws, or with two hands united.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

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Back to January 1825

Newest London and Paris Fashions for January 1825

Evening Dress, Invented by Mrs Bell, 32 St James’s Street, Engraved exclusively for World of Fashion


DRESS of blush coloured satin, finished next the hem with a fluted trimming of the same material; this ornament is of an entire new construction, and does infinite honour to the taste of the inventress; the flutings being thrown out in that elegant way, that gives a fulness to the border, while it has, at the same time, an indescribable grace and lightness; over this truly unique ornament is a broad festooned flounce of white blond, of a pattern the most exquisite; which flounce is surmounted by a row of blush colour satin foliage, each leaf edged with very narrow blond edging. The corsage is made quite plain, and fastened by a simple belt; under which is concealed a small watch, the pearl tassel belonging to the chain only appearing in sight. A falling ornament of blond surrounds the tucker part of the corsage, surmounted by a row of foliage, in miniature, like that over the flounce: the sleeves are short and full, and are trimmed with pink satin and blond, to correspond with the other embellishments of the dress. The hair is arranged in the last new style, in clusters of curls, a few of which, instead of being separated as formerly, on the forehead, descend in rather a point in that vacancy; but not so low as to obscure or disfigure the beauty of the eyebrow. A plumage of white feathers, edged and tipped with pink, are disposed in that ingenious and charming manner, that they form, in themselves, a kind of coronet toque, while a few on the right side play gracefully, in zephyr-like lightness. The engraving represents a slight innovation from full dress, sometimes resorted to, of tulle lappets being tied carelessly under the chin, terminated by pearl tassels.

Dinner Dress, Invented by Mrs Bell, 32 St James’s Street, Engraved exclusively for the World of Fashion


Dress of gros de Naples, or gauze, the colour of the pomegranate rind, trimmed at the border with a broad puckering of crape or gauze, scattered over with trefoil ornaments of satin, of a darker shade, and surmounted by three rouleaux of satin, caught up in a festoon in front, with full rosettes. The sleeves short and very full; the fulness confined by satin bands, downwards; double falling ornament of white blond, with divisions made by satin bands, that impart a graceful novelty to this kind of ornament. The hair arranged a la Suisse, with a superb diadem ornament in front, of large pearls. The Swiss bodkins represented by Glauvina pins, headed with rubies. Ruby necklace, set a l’antique, with pendant drops. The shoes of white satin, and white kid gloves.


The sports of the field, during a season remarkably humid, have lost much of their wonted attraction, and numerous families of high … are seen in London, or are emerging from the … seats, to the more diversified haunts … nearer to the metropolis.

Now is the time that there is so little … called morning, that novelties in the articles of dresses for that time of day, are but little seen to; there is but one cornette that we find attractive, and which is well calculated for retirement without appearing in a … its shape is uncommonly beautiful and … and its materials, though light, both rich and beautiful; it is formed chiefly of blond of a … pattern: it is trimmed with bows, and … of striped ribbon of the most striking and novel colours; the pattern on these ribbons … new; the stripes on one side being terminated in Vandyck points, so charmingly shated that they appear to rise above the surface, and … ribbon a most resplendent article of dress.

But if fancy, taste, and invention … so sedulously employed in the morning dress cap, the evening head-dresses are beyond … The Frescati hat … parties, is superb, yet truly delicate; … of white satin, edged and lightly ornamented with pearls; over the crown and part of the brim … playing in gossamer and sylph-like lightness … of real marabout feathers: to a fine … looking female this hat is a real acquisition: it has this advantage, there are few countenances it would not become; except the complexion remarkably sallow, or the figure too short. England, however, is justly termed the land of … few of her daughters are found with these defects. The shape of the above-mentioned head-dress comes very much over the forehead; consequently when worn as a dress hat, it is placed very backwards and on one side; on the discovered side is a bouquet of marabouts, under the brim. A toque of black velvet is a handsome evening dress for matronly ladies; it is diversified with satin and gold cordon; it is crowned with … of pink and black geathers, intermingled … droop over the front; and one long black … en saule pelureur, depends from the right … the shoulder. The Ceres’ toque is a becoming head-dress for musical parties, and for …married ladies; it is formed of bias folds of three colours, jonquil, pomegranate … purple, and is crowned with a half … obliquely, of small scarlet feathers of the … bird, scattered over with sprigs of gold. Another toque, en squellette, for full dress evening, is made of white satin and pearls; as its name imports, it is calculated for displaying the hair, and it should be extremely well arranged with this head-dress, which is fastened on the right side with two Glauvina pins, placed across, like cupids arrows, their heads coral, set on with fillagree gold; the other ornaments are coquelicot ears of of corn, bearded with gold, and plumes of small marabouts. A cap for full dress, called the Hungarian, is extremely splendid; it is of white satin, by may be literally said to be powdered with pearls and white bugles, which, on the crown, are wrought in the most exquisite pattern of flowers: the shape of the cap is a mixture of the Hulan and the Henri-quatre, which latter it most resembles, except that, on one side it is finished by indentings; these turn slightly up, and are edged with pearls: while a row of small pear pearls ornament the edge of the cap next the hair: it is crowned with a lovely and most superb plume of white ostrich feathers. The head-dress for balls consists chiefly of the hair being splendidly arranged in bows and curls: as ornaments, a few white, short feathers of that gossamer kind, the real marabouts, are placed very backward, so as to discover all the front ringlets, and only to mingle partially among the bows of hair, which are light and transparent. A superb gold ornament divides the hair above the forehead.

We began with the most exalted and beautiful part of the human frame, and before we quit the charming structure, we will make mention of the bonnets.

Surely our fair countrywomen have been studying Ovid’s “Art of Beauty,” the roman poet advises the ladies not to incur the enormous expence of wearing scarlet and purple, as he exclaims:

“What folly must in such expence appear,

When more becoming colours are less dear!”

And, indeed, the three colours now in request, have nothing to recommend them, when we regard them only according to their tints; but there is not a complexion, we will venture to say, nor any female but what is set off by them: these are the Egyptian brick colour, the orange tawny of the pomegranate rind, and the Massacca brown. A bonnet, which has been christened the Grenada bonnet, we have seen, that has been finished for a lady of rank and beauty; it was the colour of the pomegranate rind, of a very attractive shape, and made very wide in front; the material was plain gros de Naples: the crown was ornamented with fan ornaments of satin, the colour, Nile-water green, shot with pomegranate; between each of these ornaments were short feathers of the fox-brush kind, of the same colours, intermingled. The hats and bonnets are all of this large kind, spread out wide, and much bent over the forehead; we suppose the Grenada bonnet was only named after its colour, and the growth of the pomegranate in that part of Spain. Black velvet is the favourite, and general material for all hats; we are sorry to see them almost exclusively trimmed with heavy bows of the same; for the carriage they are sometimes enlivened by white feathers, but not often; coloured flowers and black plumage, the latter ornament is generally preferred, constituting the chief embellishments. For walking it is not now reckoned in good taste to wear black feathers; no lady would grace the promenade with white plumage; and even coloured flowers, though they are worn in walking costume, are not reckoned so genteel as a hat wholly unornamented, except with the bows above-mentioned, or with coloured ribbons, which still prevail much on black bonnets, particularly those of the pomegranate blossom colour.

Swedish mantles are yet in high fav0ur for the carriage; and in addition to that most supreme envelope, which we described in our last number, we have seen one very beautiful of puce coloured levantine, lined with bright jonquil; levantine is a much better material for this article of dress than gros de Naples, as it hangs more gracefully over the form: this cloak had a very large pelerine mantelet cape, which fell as low as the elbow and was ornamented with fringe and rich tassels of mingled jonquil and puce-colour.

Walking pelisses are of gros de Naples, generally of dark coloures, lined with white, amber, pink, or other suitable tint; pelisses of velvet are very often seen with borders of valuable fur; we shall ever deprecate the disfigurement of these costly skins by fanciful patterns, {see previous month for the said “disfigurement” of valuable skins being called “elegant,” “unique,” and “truly novel.”} and have all the well judging on our side; we are admonished at those respectable furriers, who were not known to deal in any artificial furs, for giving … it: it is this, certainly, that causes the plain black lynx to be so much preferred, in this season, to valuable tiny zibeline’s skin, in zig-zags, and diamonds bigger than the little animal itself, and the beautiful American grey squirrel, with its snowy breast mingled with the back, in the form of leaves, &c. and the value of the fur of these exquisite creatures can never be enhanced by such representations; the beauty consists in their own intrinsic worth, and they are

“Most regular when irregular they seem.”

Imitations in false skins will now creep in, and render that common which might be exclusive.

There is but little new in the make of the gowns and dresses of black velvet, and of black lace, … white, rose colour, or Burgundy satin, are very favourite dresses for the evening. Levantine, gros de Naples, and tabinets, are prevailing materials in half-dress. The most favourite dress costume, particularly for young ladies, consists of soft … satin, trimmed with two rows of tulle, en ruche, fastened round the waist with a girdle of gold, beautifully wrought. The sleeves are short, and are formed of tulle and white satin.

Turquoise stones, pearls, and finely wrought … form the favourite articles of jewellery. A sprig of heart’s ease, the flower made of a different colour gems, and the leaves of emeralds, is a favourite fastening for a fichu or a tucker. A beautiful device has been made from this flower, in a seal, by our gallic neighbours. It is a play on the word, and would lose its point by translation; but the French language is now so well known by people of fashion, that they will easily comprehend it. This flower, in French, is called pensees, (thoughts) and this, we may find, in Shakespeare’s time was corrupted into pansy. However, the seal is engraved with the flower; the motto round it, “Je vous suis partout.” {I am with you everywhere}

The colours now most in request are Massacca, Egyptian brick, pomegranate, (both the tawny red of the rind, and the orange scarlet of the blossom) puce, pink, and amber.


SEVERAL hats of gros de Naples, and even those of velvet, have the crowns puckered like those of a bonnet, but the brim is broader, more round, and plain. Two, and sometimes four, large rosettes of ribbon, clouded and striped, sever to draw the puckerings, and are tied on the left side. The … beautiful toques are of white crepe lisse; they are formed of little ribs, made of rows of pearls; they have a little plume of marabouts placed on one side, and on the left a large rosette of pearls. The crown of some turbans is formed of gold, in treillage work, and the border consists of a band of black velvet and gold cordon. At the Thuilleries ladies are now walking in velvet dresses; they are short in front, but have a demi-train. The sleeves that the dress-makers now call floating sleeves, are those that are not sloped off, or confined by bracelets; but … are only kept out by an under sleeve, made stiff. In the drawing-room, black satin hsoes are worn, very long quartered; for the promenade shoes are of plain black velvet, bordered with martin skin, or with chinchilla.

Evening dresses, both of plain and figured velvet, are much in request; the front of the bust is ornamented with bands of satin, trimmed with narrow blond; this style of trimming is sometimes carried down the front of the skirt, but the bands … gradually as they approach the border. On dresses of black gros de Naples, which are always in favour, the usual trimming is a border of five or six bias folds of alternate crape and satin; when there are six of these folds, they are placed two and two, about a hand’s breadth distance from each other, the upper one falling over the one beneath. A petticoat of gros de Naples, trimmed with a full chicoree, with a pelisse robe of the same material over it, is one of the prettiest half-dresses that can be imagined; the sides of the pelisse which fly open are trimmed, as well as round the border, with a chicoree, narrower than that on the petticoat, and, as the robe is made shorter than the petticoat, this forms two rows of trimming round the border of the toute ensemble. The most approved mantle is of black satin, the collar and pelerine of velvet, cut in five points, and very much hollowed out. Sometimes are seen dresses of black gros de Naples, trimmed with three flounces of blond, others with three flat rouleaux: the former is for evening dress, the latter for half dress, to which a pelerine is added, but the variety of trimmings now adopted renders it impossible to speak decidedly on which is most in favour. When buffont drapery of gauze is made use of, there is no rule in regard to the rouleaux, bias folds, straps, or clasps, by which they may be confined. Some hats are seen trimmed with ribbons, and tulle under the brim; one of these hats has appeared of a very new and singular form: the brim is hollowed out in front, and one of the sides bends down more than the other: the form is whimsical, yet the hat has a very graceful appearance; it is of black satin, ornamented with four long, flat black feathers.

At the edge of the brims of dress hats, whether of satin of figured velvet, is a binding of the same material, equally broad below as above; over this is a quilting of tulle or blond. The hat is surmounted by bows and feathers. Sometimes the brim of a hat is broad and flat on the left side, and indented, or else turned up with a brooch, on the right side; or sometimes with a rosette, from whence issues a plume of feathers. Ladies who wear white ostrich feathers, or grey marabouts, have them tied together in a kind of bouquet, so that they can place them on their heads in a minute if they are going to see a new piece performed, or to any evening party where a hat without feathers would not be proper. Some hats of white satin have the crowns in very full puckers; in bonnets this crown consists in a caul, with the puckering formed by runners, through which narrow ribbons are drawn.

On some toques is seen a rouleau of satin of a different colour to the toque; it is disposed in a serpentine manner, and entwined round with gold cordon. Morning bonnets are made of plain velvet, either black, blue, green, massacca brown, or violet, they are trimmed with broad jagged leaves of velvet. Five bows of satin, and a little bunch of primroses … velvet, on each temple, are the favourite ornaments on dress caps. At the saloon have been seen several dresses of black satin. A pelerine is an indispensable ornament, not only for pelisses, but gowns, … the latter is only for half-dress. The pelerines is made to take on and off at pleasure. Those pelerines that are cut all round, in long sharp points, are called pelerines a la neige. A young lady, at a salon, had on a crimson mantle of plush silk, ornamented with black satin, and bordered with black … trimming; the cape of this mantle was of … satin, bordered with feather trimming.

Spencers are of black velvet, with square backs, and are seamed with black satin; they are called Hussar spences, because the bust is ornamented in front with brandenburghs; and on each sleeve are five chevrons: the mancherons are ornamented with epaulettes in silk lacing; they are worn with a petticoat, either of levantine, satin, or cachemire. The ladies use claws of gold to fasten their pelisses and pelerines; with this difference, that the claws which fasten the pelerines are smaller than those on the pelisse.

From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons

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