A dress of rose-coloured gros de Naples, trimmed at the border with full and long puffings, in two distinct rows; the puffs are fluted, which imparts a richness to this novel kind of ornament. The body fits close to the shape, and is ornamented lengthwise, down the bust, with rouleaux of satin, dividing en gerbe, and brought together in a point under the belt. The sleeves fit nearly close to the arm, and are surmounted by very full but plain mancherons; at the wrists are worn broad gold bracelets, fastened with a cameo. A very narrow tucker of Vandyke blond surrounds the bust. The head-dress consists of a full dress cap, in the form of a fichu, of tulle and blond, brought in a point on the forehead, and the hair, which is arranged in very full curls, is ornamented on the right side, with one large, full-blown Provence rose, with its foliage; and, in front of the cap, is another rose, placed rather backward, yet entirely seen in front.
Over a white satin slip, a beautiful dress of gauze, of a shot lavender colour; the colour formed of grey lilac and pink intermingled, which combination imparts the most delightful gleam, that is particularly attractive by candle-light. The border of the gauze dress is ornamented on the hem, with a rich rouleau of amethyst-coloured satin, indented in diamonds; an ornament perfectly novel, and well deserving the attention of Ladies of taste and elegance. Over this are three rouleaux of satin of the same brilliant purple, set on in festoons: the points confined by full bouquets of yellow china-astres, without foliage. The corsage is plain, but is finished round the bust and at the back, with the same gauze as the dress bouillone and the fulness confined by rouleaux of amethyst-coloured satin. The sleeves are short, full, and bouillones; the puckerings confined in bias, by rouleaux of amethyst satin. A sash of the same chaste and lovely colour encircles the waist, with a handsome rosette behind the short ends. The hair is arranged very high, on the summit of the head, and the loftier part brought rather forwarder than usual. The full curls on each side of the face are brought nearly as low as the tip of the ear; the rest of the tresses are disposed in braids and bands, intermixed with gold chain-work, finely wrought, and yellow china-astres.
NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR FEBRUARY.
The lengthened light of day is now become visible, and the fashionable morning airings in Hyde Park, have commenced: from three to half past four, when the weather is propitious, we behold the gay and elegant throngs pass, in brilliant succession, exhibiting all that attraction which is inherent in their fair forms, by the aids of invention and …
There has been but little alteration in the … of bonnets, or in the style of their ornament, except that those made exclusively for the … especially for the morning visits of ceremony are of smaller dimensions than those which are … appropriated to carriage airings or the promenade. One of these tasteful dress bonnets, which is peculiarly deserving of admiration was of … coloured velvet, crowned with blush roses, and … plumes of the tropic bird, which feathers seemed to issue from the roses, and played gracefully over the front, and a part of the brim. We have seen a black velvet bonnet, worn by a lady of fashion, in the ancient cottage form, and so becoming, that we are pleased to see …
The out-door coverings for the head, are not much thought of during the time that … glories are chiefly exhibited by candle-light: … carriages are still closed, and the hours devoted to shopping and snatching a few fleeting … of day, in leading the younger branches of … through what morning lounges are at present open, give but little scope for the display of that … which constitutes the most modish for the … department. The head dresses, however, … time of the day, and every style of dress … beautiful; for the morning deshabille, the cornette is of a richly figured blond, finished at … in points a la Vandyck, next to the face, and … about the head piece, with numerous little … figured ribbonl the ground yellow, spotted at the edge with scarlet: the dejeune cornette, … Mechlin, and often of Urling’s lace, and is … with shaded striped ribbon; the colours, … lemon colour, jonquil and orange. The cornette for receiving dinner parties is often of blond, of a Vandyck pattern, ornamented with detached bouquets of various kinds of flower … theatre cornette has the appearance of a turban, were it not for its very long lappets, which are generally fastened under the chin: they are of pink gauze, in bias folds, and is charmingly … with flowers; in front is a delicate … the Catalonian jessamine; and on the … on each side are lillies of the valley or … wall flowers: on the hair, on each side, rests a flower, one a simple Indian rose … foliage, on the other a bunch of pink … the hair well arranged, and much taste in the … it on, is required with this head dress, … it appropriate for the evening. A coro… for full dress parties, is a very elegant coiffure, formed of white satin and rows of pearls; the … or circlet part is mural, and the indentings, which are bent downwards, are edged round with pearls and from each dependant square, hangs a small pear pearl, which has a most unique and splendid effect: small white feathers float over the front of this superb head dress. A black velvet dress hat, is also admired for evening parties, ornamented with gold cordon, and acorn tassels; this is crowned with a magnificent plume of white ostrich feathers. A Russian cap of black velvet also, enriched with pearls, or with gold cordon, with a full plume of pink feathers is much in favour.
Among the coloured chintzes now so prevalent for morning costume, we cannot forbear citing one, which we found peculiarly striking; the pattern being the most beautiful we have ever yet seen; and so disposed, as to have that effect on the texture, that it is almost impossible, except by the touch, to distinguish it from a French silk: the ground is a pale yellow, and the figures consist of narrow stripes in waves of a straw’s breadth, and about an inch and a half distant from each other; these are of massacca brown; between these stripes are shaded spots, about the size of a shilling, very close to each other, of purple and scarlet, lightly sprinkled over with shagreen spots, so small, that they are scarce visible, but on a close inspection; but they add much to the softening of the shades; and, at a distance, the pattern has the appearance of a fancy plaid. This dress is made high, en demi blouse, and the sleeves fit close to the arm: the border of the skirt is trimmed with nine very narrow flounces, set close together, but distinct. A high dress of scarlet, real cachemire, is a favourite gown for home costume: it is trimmed with gros de Naples, and satin of the same colour: two pointed flounces, reversed, of gros de Naples, the points edged with silk cordon ornament the border. The corsage is bounillone, in front, and the puckerings confined by satin straps across: the mancherons quartered like a melon, in alternate divisions of cachemire and satin: round the throat is an ornament of double points, which forms a kind of collar, and corresponds with the trimmings at the border of the skirt, being of gros de Naples, and finished with silk cordon, in a similar manner. A Bavarian robe of puce-coloured gros de Naples, delicately sprigged, is also a half dress that has been much approved; the tablier part is improved by an elegant finish to the satin straps that confine its slight puckering; the straps being terminated by short fringe tassels: the corsage is made partially high, and is formed almost entirely of folds of satin, very little of the gros de Naples appearing between. The sleeves are of the same material as the robe, made full, but confined at equal distances, all the way from the wrist to the shoulder, with very narrow bands of satin. An evening dress of striped gauze, just completed for a lady of distinction, lately fell under our notice, which is a beautiful specimen of taste, and well adapted to the season, by the charming glow of its colours, and the elegant style of its make. The ground is of a bright geranium colour, with stripes of shaded satin, orange-tawney and jonquil. Over the hem is a broad, full rouleau of jonquil satin, above which are large puffs, in festoons, of buffont drapery, of ponceau and jonquil gauze; each puff, which is very long, being brought together, of the two different colours, and confined by rings of fluted jonquil satin; the corsage fastens behind, and is made a la Vierge, except that a drapery folds across the bust, and ornaments the sleeves, to correspond with that on the petticoat.
Pelisses of velvet and gros de Naples, the former trimmed with the most costly furs, in various ingenious patterns are still in high request; it is wonderful to see the figures in which it is disposed, but we sincerely wish the furriers had not destroyed the genuine beauty of their valuable furs by mingling them in the fanciful way they have done this season. To the dress-maker who forms foliage and flowers, from the glossy black lynx, the chaste and lovely brown of the unmixed sable, the silvery grey of the American squirrel, and the uncontaminated ermine, every praise is due for the novel idea. But, we trust the furriers will leave off the regular patch-work of white diamonds in the grey squirrel, or black waves on the little zibeline, making that truly valuable skin to have something the appearance of that of the Norway rat.
At a ball given at a gentleman’s country house a few miles from London, a very short time ago, were seen some very superb as well as tasteful dresses that wee equally admirable for their elegant simplicity; and before we dismiss the subject of fashionable intelligence, we shall mention two or three that most struck us, and which promise most likely to be exclusively adopted by the higher classes. Par excellence, we first mention a tunic robe of amaranthine velvet, trimmed with broad white blond, of a most superb pattern: the petticoat which the robe partially discovered in front was a white satin, richly trimmed with flounces of blond. The hair, elegantly arranged, was ornamented with a diadem of brilliants; behind which was the favourite little neglige fichu, now so much the rage, scattered over, at the back part with roses of paradise. The body of the dress, according to the present mode, was the same as the skirt, but being diversified by a white satin stomacher and a falling tucker of blond, it had not the least heaviness in appearance; and the tunic robes, which are now very fashionable, are well adapted to velvet, which, especially at balls, looks better in such fancy dresses, than in those that are round. The other velvet dress was also a tunic robe with a white satin petticoat; the velvet dress was black, splendidly trimmed with gold cordon in Vandyck points with tassels and fringe; and the sleeves, which were long, were finished at the wrists with Vandyck points of exquisitely fine white lace, in the old English style; an ornament of which fell over the bust, which was beautifully relieved by the above-mentioned lace, and by a white satin stomacher. Amongst the hair were entwined pearls and white roses, in the most elegant and tasteful manner, though, seemingly,
“Wild, without rule or art.”
Though we do not admire black for the ball room, yet this last-mentioned dress, with one of fine black tulle attracted universal admiration, especially as we were given to understand that the two ladies were in the last stage of mourning. The black tulle dress was an Arcadian robe over satin, and was richly trimmed in bias folds of satin, as high as the knee, which were disposed in tasteful wavings, and scattered over with roses; this caused the most charming effect, when the robe was partially looped up, by the roses appearing as if they ornamented the petticoat of satin worn underneath. Pearl combs and roses adorned the hair. The young persons had, many of them, clear muslin dresses of fine India Bocca, over white satin or gros de Naples; indeed the very, young were all in white: gauze or of figured tulle: where the robe was of this form, a few simple flowers, to keep up the classical costume of Arcadia, were scattered among the tresses, but many young ladies had no other ornaments on their heads, but their own fine hair, beautifully arranged, and gave proof of the attractions belonging to youth’s early bloom;-
“Unadorn’d, adorn’d the most.”
We were just about closing our observations, when we had the advantage of inspecting a beautiful carriage pelisse, just completed for a lady who ranks high in fashionable life. The pelisse is of blush-red gros de Naples lined with a rich white sarcenet, and trimmed at the hem with a double rouleau; down the sides of the skirt, in front, and representing plumage, beautifully embossed, and formed of such narrow rouleaux, that it appears light, as well as costly. The collar is half falling, scalloped at the edge, and elegantly ornamented with chain-work of narrow rouleaux. The sleeves are peculiarly novel and elegant; they are only of a moderate width, yet without mancherons, and are finished down the outside of the arm, from the shoulders to the wrist, with united diamonds, ingeniously formed of chains of narrow rouleaux; and the seams of the body are ornamented in a correspondent manner.
The favourite colours are jonquil, pink, scarlet, orange-tawney, amaranth, and massacca brown.
PARISIAN FASHIONS FROM A VARIETY OF ORIGINAL AND AUTHENTIC SOURCES.
SEVERAL ladies wear at balls, black crape dresses sprinkled all over with bugles: others have a slight embroidery at the border in polished steel. Black dresses are most elegant among women of fashion, with which, at the Opera Buffa, have been seen white hats and those of rose colour.
Pelerines have been invented, made of marabout feathers, these have a very distinguished appearance.
Turbans are of gauze with the crowns of velvet; they are more in vogue than ever: on toques are placed two aigrettes; one near the ear, which falls over the neck.
Hats of black velvet or satin, have succeeded to those of gros de Naples; the brim flies off the face; the trimming them with bows of the same material as the hat, yet continues.
Wreaths of flowers are the sole ornaments on the hair of young ladies. At the public spectacles has appeared a new head-dress, called a beret: at evening parties, toques and turbans are preferred.
On several hats is seen so broad a blond at the edge, that it forms a demi-veil, this blond, however, should not be more than a hand’s breadth.
The disposal of marabouts and other feathers is decisive of the manner most proper for the toques or berets. At the opera a lady was seen with the beret covered entirely on one side by a plume of marabouts, the end of every feather standing upright: the other part of the beret, which was black velvet was quite uncovered.
Half dress gowns are trimmed with fur; some are trimmed down each side, like an open pelisse, the ends of these two rows of fur are lost in the upper border that surrounds the skirt.
At the concert given in the rue de Clery, for the benefit of an Italian artist’s widow, there was, among several other very remarkable head-dresses, a velvet toque, which was ornamented with three rosettes of velvet, and twelve marabouts, four between each rosette. Several toques of black crape were sprinkled with stars, others were covered with a net-work in bugles, and most of them ornamented with three flat feathers. On small dress caps, made very flat on the head, were seen the flowers called snow-balls, on others marabouts, placed arch-wise, the ends being bent together, so as to form a kind of bower. Young persons wore only their own hair, or a hat of white pluche de soie, ornamented with satin rosettes. Moabitish toques of rose coloured satin, fasten under the chin. Some velvet dress hats are ornamented with gold.
Turbans and toques are confined to every day wear, or to the public spectacles – for a ball or concert, ladies of fashion have their turbans, their flowers or their feathers … by the hands of the hair-dresser. At balls, and at social parties, wreaths of gold or silver, are often mingled in the hair, and entwined among gauze or velvet. … also, made of different coloured gems, are a favourite … dress for young ladies.
Deshabille hats are of dark colours, and are trimmed at the edge of the brim with a broad blond: the crowns are … trimmed with satin rosettes, and often with those … pluche de soie. There are many white hats now to … they are fastened with two strings of crape, with … at each ear: underneath the hat is a half wreath … flowers.
Several dress gowns are of white barege, grey, … they are trimmed with folds of satin, and three … chenille.
Some maltese collars are of organdy, or of clear muslin, made very stff, they are embroidered with black, in … stitch.
For ball dresses, young persons wear blouse-robes of Organdy, embroidered with black crewel: these embroidered … fill up the spaces between broad bias folds.
On those days, when the weather has been less … it has been for some time, some fashionable ladies have been remarked walking in the Thuilleries. They were in pelisses of velvet, either black, violet, or dark green, they were trimmed with chinchilla or black marten; with long … of the same fur, which covered the back, and with … broad over the shoulders: these pelerine tippets were … with gold claws, or with two hands united.
From: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons
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