Tag: Journal des Dames et des Modes

25th of January 1829

We have spoken of frills en rideau, frills which, even in Chantilly blond, are a half ell high. The bias tucks, and even the ribbon treillages are the same height. We make the treillages in moire ribbon in a colour that that contrasts with the background of ball gowns, or in similar ribbons, that is to say, in pinks, blues, yellows, and whites.

The fullness of short sleeves, called en beret, is such that if we unpick one of these little sleeves, either gathered, or bubbled, or draped, from above the wrist which goes just around the arm between the elbow and the shoulder, one finds that the piece of fabric of a half yard, or even three quarters of a yard, has been used.

The sellers of novelties have trouble agreeing on the colour eminence; it is wanted by some to be purple.

We have seen at a belle assemblee lots of violet hats, lined in white, and a few lined in yellow. A hat of buff satin, lined and ornamented in transparent ponceau satin, hat for trimming two esprits that were white with a black curled base. Willow plumes, blue and black, or pink and black, ornament hats of black velvet, lined in vivid pink. A boiteaux willow has between the length of three knotted barbs, a black barb between two pink barbs, or a blue barb between two black. In the past, we called the boiteuse a feather of two colours separated at the edge.

A design of the name mephistopheles is a ponceau ribbon with spiked edges of black, or black with spiked edges of ponceau.

The most elegant hoods are of gros de Naples or of moire the colour of yellow bird of paradise/ On the edge of the pass[?] and on the flap, is embroidered with a garland of leaves of almond or of ivy, in ponceau silk. The edge has a high blond for trimming. In demi-neglige, the elegants wear redingotes of satin or of gros des Indes with a double pelerine. These pelerines are bordered with a fringe with four rows of braided silk net.

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Some men’s coats are trimmed with sky blue plush. The little collar is of astracan grey.

At balls, there are fashionists who wear grey and black chequerboard stockings: their handkerchief is of batiste, with an inch wide hem; the corners alone are embroidered.

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To today’s sheet is joined engraving 2665.

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From: Journal des Dames et des Modes

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20th of January 1829

In general the hats offer pink under black, white under violet, ponceau [poppy-colour] under green, yellow under brown; pink and blue all united, uncut with other colours. When a hat isn’t ornamented with willow or two esprits, it has, for a trimming, a great number of very long white feathers.

To ornament head-dresses of hair, there are gauze ribbon cockades, in a colour called cheveaux [hair colour], which is more or less dark, more or less light, nuanced to the shade chestnut, brown, or blonde, of the tresses. These ribbons are woven with gold or silver.

We have seen at a ball, hops in bloom, interspersed with ponceau [poppy-coloured] feathers, the whole forming a crown. Other garlands are composed of bunches of grapes and roses. As an ornament to the ball coiffure, it is necessary again to mention the pink geranium.

We call sleeves montees a l’anglais, those which have, in addition to the circumference of the sleeve and the armscye, a crescent of fabric, of similar fabric to the dress, but gathered and pleated in a thousand pleats. This crescent represents the epaulette of the uniform of British troops. Sometimes it is in velvet on a satin dress, and satin on a redingote of velvet. Its purpose seems to be to allow the dressmaker to attach the sleeves very low, below the shoulder.

A few fashionists have brought back to the wrist the circular bouffant which, last summer, on sleeves a la Marie, enveloped the elbow. Thus descended, we name it manchette.

We make, for ladies who don’t dance at balls, lots of dresses in embroidered grosgain.

In going out for a ball, some ladies put on pelisses entirely lined in fur. These witz-chouras descent less low than normal pelisses.

The round collar on men’s cloaks falls lower than the elbow.

Oddity of the moment: there are women’s stockings the colour of flesh under which little birds are embroidered in Navarin blue, or butterflies painted in colour.

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To the sheet of today is joined engraving 2664

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From: Journal des Dames et des Modes

Onwards to 25th of January 1829

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15th of January 1829

Young people wear to balls dresses of crepe, whose hem is trimmed with a bias fold close to the feet, and surmounted with three pleats. Sometimes these pleats are in satin of a different colour to the dress: then, bodice and sleeves are in harmony with the pleats.

We border most bodices with two or three bands tulle, gathered and pleated into large piping; but the shoulders are always off the body.

Besides the arrows, ears of wheat, and flowers in pearls that ornament head dresses of hair, there are belts of pearls; we clip even satin bodices with pearl rosettes.

Some fashionists trim the bottom of a ball dress, whose bodice is pink or blue, with moire ribbons in the colour of the bodice. These ribbons form a treillage that goes up to the knees.

Often, young elegants wear a tulle dress over a dress of yellow satin. The tulle dress is embroidered with carnation buds, ad, at the height of the knees, a range of bouquets.

Berets are, like head-dresses of hair, ornamented with pearls. Often a beret of eminence coloured plain velvet is bordered with two rows of pearls; a rosette in pearls is embroidered on the flat; and three or four cordons of pearls finish in a tassel descending to the shoulder.

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Some fashionists wear black tortoiseshell eyeglasses in the form of a figure of 8: a black ribbon, passed in the upper part, suspends them on the chest at the height of the second button of the redingote.

We now make ballroom shoes, for men, in patent leather.

The beaux-fils wear to the ball, knee tight trousers, which mark well the calf, and which are narrow to the bottom of the leg. These trousers only descend to the ankle; they have silk under-feet[?]. Waistcoats are in little velvet in bright blue with fantasy designs. The coat, black or brown, a collar very large in the same fabric: the lapels are wide and have sharp points; the waist low and narrow, the sleeves just to the wrist, and short enough to see a flat or pleated cuff.

The big fashion is to have blue gloves, sewn and embroidered in white silk.

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To today’s sheet is joined engravings 2662 and 2663

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From: Journal des Dames et des Modes

Onwards to 20th of January 1829

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10th of January 1829

Besides butterflies and hummingbirds, the hair dressers employ cordons and bandeaux of white pearls to ornament the head dresses of hair. Often these cordons form an open basket in the middle of the head. This fashion is from the reign of Henry IV: various portraits of Gabrielle d’Estrees are representative of this hair style. When the pearls are mounted in a diadem, two cordons serve to fasten it, will reach the top of the coiffure from behind. Flowers also figure sometimes as a diadem.

The round bottom of tulle bonnets, called bonnets parres, have gathers held on to the top of the head by a rosette of gauze, satin striped ribbon. Two double pleats, in tulle, garnish the border of these bonnets. Under the last pleat, which is raised, there is a cordon of lily of the valley, or heather in flower.

Lots of bright green ribbons are employed by the marchandes de modes. On a hat of violet gros des Indes, they put loops and cones in green gauze ribbons.

There is on the satin or velvet hats of a transparent colour, such a profusion of towers of blond, that the two esprits that form the obligitary garnish, are as if implanted in cones of blond.

The hem of plain velvet dresses that are destined for grand soirees, are garnished with a high frill of black or white blond, at the head of which is a twist of two gold strands. From distance to distance, this twist forms a rosette, and the blond frill is designated in festoons.

Some lady’s mantles, in fabric of cashmere, are ornamented, at the collar and the lower border, with Etruscan designs cut with a punch.

The furriers must be overjoyed: the shopping for boas and fur palatines doesn’t stop the buying of muffs: they are in all sizes.

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On this day’s sheet is attached engraving 2661

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From: Journal des Dames et des Modes

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