An Assemblage of Fashionable Head-Dresses
PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.
Fig. 1. – Indian green gros de Naples robe, the corsage half-high, and the sleeves demi-large; the border is trimmed with four flounces, set on rather full, and cut in sharp dents; India muslin mantelet, trimmed with point de Paris, set on very full and surmounted by a rose-ribbon run through the brim. Drawn bonnet of white pou de soie, trimmed with white ribbon edged with green, and the interior of the brim ornamented with light gerbes of foliage.
Fig. 2. – Robe tablier of India muslin, over an under-dress of pale blue gros de Naples; the tablier is formed by a muslin bouillon, through which blue ribbon is run, and a row of lace is attached to it on one side; a similar trimming borders the skirt; a low square corsage, decorated en coeur, with folds, and a bouillon, upon which a knot of ribbon is laid on the shoulder; the sleeves are disposed in bouffants from the shoulder to the wrist. Tulle cap of the Babet form, decorated with lappets of the same, and blue ribbon.
PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.
Fig. 3. – Peignoir of rose-colour taffetas, the corsage is made up to the throat, and is trimmed, as is also the skirt, with Valenciennes lace; under-dress of jaeonut muslin, the border ornamented with entre deux of open work ; muslin mantelet of the shawl form, trimmed with rose-ribbon and lace. Hat of blue pou de soie, the crown trimmed with ribbons and ostrich feathers to correspond, the interior of the brim decorated with small pink flowers.
HALF-LENGTH FIGURES. – MORNING DRESSES.
- — Pelisse -robe of lilac gros de Naples. Cottage bonnet of pink pou de soie, trimmed with ribbons to correspond, and a lace drapery.
- — Muslin robe, embroidered in feather stitch. Round cap of tulle, trimmed with oiseau ribbons.
- — Green cashmere shawl, and drawn bonnet of pale pink gros de Naples.
Fig. 1. — Striped gros de Naples pelisse-robe, the front of the skirt is fastened by ornaments of the same material of a novel form ; the corsage tight to the shape and descending a little in front, is trimmed with a full fall of lace ; the sleeves are very large at the lower part, and tightened into moderate bouffants at the top. Rice-straw hat, profusely trimmed with groseille ribbon and flowers.
MORNING VISITING DRESS.
Fig. 2. — India muslin robe; the border is trimmed with a flounce of the same material edged with Valenciennes lace, and surmounted by a bouillon; a high corsage, trimmed with a small round pelerine of English point lace ; sleeve a la Duchesse d’ Orleans. Italian straw hat, the interior of the brim decorated with a wreath of roses, and the crown ornamented with a bouquet of white ostrich feathers.
Fig. 3. — The robe is blue tulle, over pou de soie to correspond; the corsage is low, square, and draped in a very novel manner; the sleeve full in the centre, but with the fulness confined by rouleaus at bottom and top; the trimming of the skirt corresponds. Rice-straw hat; it is a chapeau camaro, decorated with marabouts, and small blue flowers.
- — A back-view of the hat of fig. 1.
- — Promenade bonnet of blue pou de soie, trimmed with ribbons to correspond, and a sprig of green foliage.
- — Half-dress bonnet of white pou de soie, trimmed with white ribbons and a sprig of velvet flowers.
- — A back-view of the hat of fig. 2.
MORNING VISITING DRESS.
Fig. 1 . — Pelisse-robe of India muslin, lined with pale straw- coloured gros de Naples, the border and fronts of the robe are worked in feather stitch; the corsage, half high and tight to the shape, is partially covered by a fichu, embroidered to correspond; the sleeve is tight, and finished at the top with two falls of lace, from thence to the wrist it is full. Italian-straw hat, trimmed with violets and white ribbon.
PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.
Fig. 2. — Striped gros de Naples robe; the front of the skirt is trimmed with a rouleau, disposed in waves, and edged with lace; tight corsage, and sleeves demi-large, trimmed, as is also the fichu, with lace. White gros de Naples hat, ornamented with white ribbon and roses.
Fig. 3.— French grey pou de soie robe; the border is finished with a deep flounce of antique lace; a tight corsage, and short sleeves, tight just below the shoulder, and from thence disposed in bouillons; pelerine-fichu of lace to correspond with that on the skirt, and fastened down the front with rosettes of pink ribbon. Pink pou de soie hat: the interior of the brim is trimmed with gerbes of roses, a lace drapery intermixed with roses adorns the crown.
- — Social party dress.— Green pou de soie robe; embroidered muslin pelerine, en coeur. Embroidered tulle cap, of a round shape, decorated with moss roses and pale rose-ribbons.
- — Carriage hat and shawl. — The first is of rice-straw, trimmed with blue ribbons, and white ostrich feathers tipped with blue. The shawl is of India muslin, embroidered, and trimmed with lace.
- — Half-dress cap of blond lace, trimmed with lemon- coloured ribbons and gerbes of foliage.
Fig. 1. — Robe tunique of organdy, the skirt is trimmed with bouillons, through which rose ribbon is drawn; the tunic is formed by a bouillon, arranged down the front and round the border ; it is edged with English point lace. Corsage low and square, short tight sleeves with demi Venitieene mancherons. The hair is arranged in a twisted roll at the back of the head, and ringlets at the sides ; it is adorned with gerbes of roses.
PARIS PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.
Fig. 2. — Robe of vert chin gros de Naples. Mantelet of filet de Soie (moyen age) of a peculiarly light and transparent pattern, and of a very large size. Drawn bonnet of white crape, trimmed in a very novel style with pink ribbon.
Fig. 3. — Robe of flesh coloured gros de Naples, square corsage, and sleeves demi large. Scarf mantelet of black filet de soie. Turban cap of tulle, ornamented with roses, and a rouleau of rose coloured ribbon.
- — India muslin robe, the corsage is partially covered by a heart pelerine, trimmed with lace, and a lilac ribbon in bouillon. Bonnet a la Charlotte Corday, ornamented with roses and lilac ribbon.
- — Cambric robe, a square corsage, and sleeve of an easy fulness. Fichu a la paysanne of black filet de soie, and tablier of lemon coloured gros de Naples. Small round cap of tulle, ornamented with a half wreath of flowers.
- — Mousseline de laine robe, a pink ground spotted with white. Embroidered muslin fichu. Cap of tulle blonde, trimmed with blue ribbon and flowers.
Fig. 1. — Robe of grey gros de Naples chine; the corsage a little pointed at bottom, and draped on the shoulders; the sleeves are drawn close at bottom and top, but full in the centre; the skirt is finished with two flounces. Italian straw hat, trimmed with ribbon to correspond, and black lace.
Fig. 2. — Organdy robe, spotted with blue cashmere worsted; the border is trimmed with flounces headed by a bouillon; corsage drape en coeur; the sleeves are full in the centre, but finished with bouillons at top and bottom. Pink pou de soie hat, trimmed with flowers and ribbons to correspond.
Fig. 3. — Robe of pink pou de soie glace de blanc; the corsage made tight to the shape, cut low, and square; short sleeves, forming a double bouillon; pelerine-mantelet of filet de soie, ornamented with a knot of pink ribbon. Capote of oiseau crape, trimmed with ribbons to correspond.
NEWEST LONDON FASHIONS FOR SEPTEMBER 1838.
The time is at last come when the genius of Fashion seeks a little repose, passing almost at once from the extreme of splendour to that of simplicity. We might be tempted to imagine that she was actually idle ; but such is never really the case. It is quite an error to say that there are no new fashions ; there may not, indeed, be striking novelties, but there will always, to an observant and critical eye, be changes ; which, though apparently slight, have still a material influence on dress, for as our readers well know, the placing of a feather or a flower, or a trifling alteration in the size or shape of the brim of a hat or bonnet, often produces a great effect upon the countenance. In like manner the figure maybe either embellished or injured by the depth of the point of a corsage, or the arrangement of a trimming. Let us now see what fashion has done for or against our fair readers in these respects, since our last number.
NEW MATERIALS. — Although it is yet too soon for new autumnal materials to appear, we have, nevertheless, been favoured with a sight of some that our fair readers will find worthy of their attention. One that is uncommonly beautiful, is a rich silk, striped in alternate marbled and damasked stripes ; another has a sort of levantine ground, very stout and close, figured in a very small pattern of vivid colours ; a third kind is a pelenot, striped alternately in satin and gros de Naples stripes of equal breadths, and strewed with small flowers, figured in different colours. We have also seen some soft satins, of a very rich quality, figured in small patterns, and changeable silks of new and brilliant hues ; and from the information that has reached us, we have no hesitation in affirming that the silks in favour for the ensuing autumn will be of great richness and beauty, and that changeable silks will enjoy considerable vogue.
SHAWLS. — There is a great variety at present, and we may cite among the most elegant, those of plain cashmere, fringed with cashmere wool. Nothing can be more graceful than those shawls with exquisitely light fringe that every breath of air agitates ; white ponceau and light blue are most in vogue. The rice crape shawls are also come again very much into favour, but they must be embroidered. Blue and ponceau are favourite colours for these shawls, but white ones are more numerous. India muslin shawls, embroidered in gold, have at once a rich and beautiful effect. We must, however, observe, that in some instances the embroidery appears to us too heavy for the material ; and we like those better in which the embroidery is a mixture of cotton and gold. We may cite as one of the most elegant of these latter, a very large shawl, the embroidery of which was of rose-coloured cotton and gold.
BONNETS. — Several have appeared, both drawn and plain, of straw-coloured pou de soie, trimmed with ribbons, plaided in straw colour and black, the union of these two colours is expected to remain in favour during the whole of the autumn. Summer bonnets are, however, still the most in request; those of crape and organdy have lost nothing of their vogue; they are trimmed very sparingly with white ribbon, and a sprig of roses with their foliage.
HATS. — Several of those of Italian straw are trimmed with groseille or deep blue velvet, and a single white ostrich feather, tipped to correspond with the velvet. Rice straw hats continue their vogue; but we have nothing new to announce concerning their trimmings. Pou de soie hats begin to be a good deal seen, and we observe that the majority are made without curtains at the back; we congratulate our readers on the abandonment of a mode so generally unbecoming; it is succeeded by a small piece trimmed up at the back of the crown, beneath which is a few puffs, or a knot of ribbon.
MANNER OF WEARING HATS. — Although fashion is in many respects less despotic than usual, she has yet established one law which none of her fair votaries ventures to transgress, that of wearing the hat very far back upon the head ; this style is exceedingly becoming to some ladies, and quite the reverse to others, but it is adopted by all ; what renders it more particularly unbecoming is, that the brim which descends very low on the cheeks, encircles the face like a cap, and is very full trimmed with flowers, blond lace, or ribbons. This fashion, if adopted in moderation, would be very pretty, but it is carried to the greatest excess; however, we hope I hat as the winter approaches it will be laid aside.
PELISSES are a good deal in request in carriage dress; we may cite, among others, those composed of the new plaided foulards, cherry colour and white; the fronts are trimmed with rosettes of ribbon to correspond, diminishing gradually in size from the top to the bottom. Another style of pelisse — one that seems likely to remain in favour, is composed of shot silk, the front trimmed en tablier, with scallops, which are edged with effile. Pelisses are all made with the corsages, opening in front in the heart style; some are finished with a small lappel, and others arranged in folds which come from the shoulder. Early as it is in the season we have seen a few pelisses trimmed with swan’s-down.
CARRIAGE DRESS. — We cannot do better than cite a few ensembles of the most elegant carriage dresses that have lately fallen under our observation. An India muslin robe, the bottom is simply finished with a broad hem ; the corsage is in crossed drapery ; the sleeves are made full below the shoulder, and are finished at the elbow by a fall of lace, headed by a bouillon, through which a coloured ribbon is drawn. The head- dress is a bonnet which as just appeared, but which, we think, very likely to be a great favourite; they are made both in crape and in silk, the one of which we speak was in crape ; the crown is placed very backward, the brim of the usual shape, but arranged en bouillons, with a slip of whalebone between each ; the edge of the brim is terminated by a bouillon, which has less of fulness than the others. The shawl is white china crape, embroidered in flowers with silks of vivid colours. Another favourite style is, a peignoir of white organdy, striped with stripes formed of a single coloured thread; the border is trimmed with a single flounce a quarter of a yard in depth. An Italian straw hat, the interior of the brim is decorated with a wreath of Marguerites, and the upper part with a bunch of raspberries and their foliage. A Spanish mantelet of black pou de soie, trimmed with black lace, completes one of the most simply elegant toilettes that we have seen for some time.
FLOWERS. — Every day produces fresh ones, and certainly nothing can be prettier than some of those fancy flowers. We may cite as the most elegant among them, the rose-acacia, which is so named, we presume, because its foliage resembles that of the acacia very much: the roses are of the natural form, and nothing can imitate nature better. There are two on the sprig, with a number of birds. This ornament is employed both for hats and for the hair, in either case it is placed on one side and falls very low.
ROBES. — Flounces are more adopted than ever, and there is now more variety in them than one would suppose possible, owing to the different manner in which they are made. Some are cut in large, moderate, and small dents, others in cocks’-combs , and some that are cut bias, are finished at the edge by double pipings. A novel style of trimming, and one that has a pretty effect, is composed of four or five flounces which diminish in width from the top to the bottom.
CORSAGES open on the bosom, are universally adopted in half-dress, this form which is at once becoming and appropriate to the demi-toilette, is expected to remain in favour.
APRONS are in very great vogue, the majority of those worn in home neglige are of plaided taffetas, trimmed either with black fringe or black lace, they are also made in mousseline de laine, a plain ground embroidered in coloured silks with bouquets of flowers, which terminate under the palelots, so that the apron appears almost covered with embroidery. Some young persons wear bibs and aprons, each corner of the bib being fastened by small gold pins. These bibs are composed only of plain pou de soie, either grey or green, and are adopted only by very young ladies. Where an apron is worn in elegant neglige, it is frequently of plain grey silk, with a narrow embroidery in rose colour ; or else an embroidery in ecru, on a plain blue ground. We see also some of muslin, trimmed with lace, and lined with rose or blue sarsnet ; but the most novel are of velours epingle, embroidered in black, in imitation of lace, and finished at the bottom by a deep and rich black lace laid full upon the apron.
MANCHETTES are now made of the round cuff kind, they are either of cambric, muslin, or organdy; a good many are trimmed with narrow lace. Several are also ornamented with open work as well as edged with lace.
EVENING COSTUMES — We shall cite as the two most elegant models, a robe of organdy, figured in white and gold; the skirt trimmed with two bouillons; they are confined by chefs d’Or. A tunic also of organdy, and trimmed to correspond, is worn over the robe ; the ceinture is a chef d’Or with two short ends, edged with a narrow gold fringe. Corsage a la Grecque, with short sleeves, ornamented with chefs; the draperies of the corsage are retained in the centre of the bosom by a cameo. Coiffure a la Berthe, decorated with white roses. The other dress is also robe of organdy, striped in very narrow stripes of the palest pink : the skirt is trimmed with three flounces of the same material, raised on one side by knots of rose ribbon. The corsage is draped, and the sleeves, which are short, are a double bouffant, ornamented with lace and rose ribbons. Coiffure a la Sevigne, decorated with a bandeau of pearls and a sprig of roses.
HEAD-DRESSES IN EVENING DRESS. — Those of hair have not altered since last month. Flowers continues their vogue, but we see also a good many decorated with ribbons, and some with velvet ; the latter, however, are not very general. Turbans are still in favour for grand parties ; they are of an elegantly simple kind, composed of tulle, and of a round form, finished on each side by a lappet, or rather we should call it a scarf of the same material, which is very long, and floats on the shoulders. Some of these turbans have flowers placed inside of the folds, which seen through their transparency has a very pretty effect.
FASHIONABLE COLOURS. — Although light hues are still predominant, we see also that full colours begin to be partially seen, — groseille, violet, and some dark shades of green, blue, and grey, have appeared.
NEWEST PARISIAN FASHIONS FROM THE MOST AUTHENTIC SOURCES
Simplicity and taste are, this Autumn, the handmaidens of fashion, and well, indeed, do they perform their task — as our plates will testify. There is a good deal of variety as well as elegance in the fashionable costumes of the different watering-places, and though it is yet early in the year, there seems a strong tendency to the demi-saison costume; but this, generally speaking, only shews itself when the weather is more than ordinarily cool. Proceed we now to select for our fair readers such novel information as may be at once useful and acceptable to them.
CAPOTES. — A material has just been employed for them by some fashionable marchandes des modes, which we mention only to protest against the use of it — it is changeable silk— nothing can be prettier for robes and mantelets, but it has a very bad effect for bonnets, because the variations of the colour is produced only by the movement of the folds in the reflection of the light. We may venture to predict that this fancy will be merely the caprice of the moment, and will neither last nor be resumed. Capotes of gros de Naples or pou de soie of various colours ; glace de blanc, are very generally adopted, particularly those of lilac, citron, and rose-colour. Capotes of crape have diminished a little in favour, but those of gaze iris and organdy continue their vogue. Several of the latter have the edge of the brim trimmed with a ruche of the same material, but this is not so general as one of tulle. A great many morning bonnets of sewed straw have the interiors of the brim trimmed with a full ruche of blond or tulle, without any intermixture of ribbons or flowers. The crown is trimmed with ribbon only, but very sparingly, and simply arranged in a knot on one side, and another of a smaller size behind.
CHAPEAUX.— Several of those of sewed straw are trimmed with a yellow silk cord, which passes several times round the crown, and has the ends fastened in a running knot terminated by tassels. Some straw hats of other kinds are also trimmed in a similar style, but with the cord and tassels of straw. As the season advances the rage for trimming Italian straw hats with fruit and its foliage increases. We perceive, during the last month, that miniature vine leaves, and those of gooseberries and currants, are the most in favour ; but whatever the foliage may be, the fruit is either red or purple. This style of trimming and feathers, particularly follettes, is in the highest favour for straw hats. We have, however, within the last few days, seen some decorated with velvet, of rich full hues, tastefully intermingled with blond lace; the effect is strikingly elegant, and we have reason to believe the fashion is one likely to continue during the autumn, for which, indeed, it is particularly well calculated.
SHAWLS. — During several years past the spring and autumn have afforded our elegantes an opportunity of displaying their superb cashmeres, and this year we may cite the autumnal ones as peculiarly beautiful. Some have the ground of one colour only, with a very rich border en rosaces; others are of the Turkish kind, and others again of those lizarre patterns that are styled Egyptians. There is certainly a singular charm in fashion, for these last are positively ugly, notwithstanding which they are adopted by the most distinguished of our elegantes. We must observe that these shawls are all square, and of a very large size.
MANTELETS may be said to divide the vogue with shawls, for when the day is too warm for the latter, the former still continue to be adopted. We must observe, however, that lace and muslin ones are very little seen; black silk ones enjoy great favour, and those of changeable silk trimmed with black lace still greater. Those made with the pelerine descending in the lappel style are decidedly the most in request, but as to the form there is no actual novelty, nor indeed can any be expected at present. We have reason, however, to believe that as the winter approaches mantelets will increase in size ; we shall be very sorry if they do, for at present they are the very perfection of the juste milieu.
PROMENADE DRESS FOR THE WATERING PLACES.— Several of our most distinguished elegantes have lately appeared in redingotes of nankeen, with the front of the corsage and skirt trimmed with three rows of buttons spreading in the fan form. Some have the olives joined by brandebourgs instead of buttons. The sleeves are large in the centre, but made close at bottom and top, and ornamented with brandebourgs. Pretty manchettes of Valenceinnes, and a lace to correspond, encircling the throat, are generally adopted with this costume, which is completed in the most tasteful style by a straw hat trimmed with plaid ribbons, or else with a ribbon striped in the narrowest possible stripes of black and straw colour, and a black ostrich feather which falls very low upon the brim. The first hats of this kind that have appeared made really quite a sensation, and pretty as they are allowed to be, an improvement has recently taken place which renders them still more elegant— it is a new kind of feather, half black and half straw-colour, which promises to be in very great request this autumn. A bird of Paradise, dyed black, is sometimes employed instead of a feather of this kind, but though more expensive it is by no means so fashionable.
MORNING DRESS. — We have but few observations to make upon it at this moment ; the peignoir form is the most decidedly in request, and muslin still predominates. We have seen, however, some peignoirs of mousseline de laine, the fronts trimmed with a puffing of ribbon, corresponding with the ground of the robe ; a small pelerine-fichu crossed upon the bosom is also trimmed to correspond.
HALF-DRESS PEIGNOIRS are in great favour; they are always composed either of organdy or gauze ; the back of the corsage is tight, the front loose. When the wearer wishes to confine it to the shape she adopts a long ceinture of the same material, forming a rosette with long ends. There is something at once very tasteful and simple in this style of half-dress. Robes of the tunic form continue to be worn, but they are not so numerous. A great many half-high robes are trimmed with a bouillon so disposed on the corsage as to have the appearance of a fichu-pelerine; others have the bouillon disposed in such a manner as to have the effect of a pelerine en coeur; in either case the robe is trimmed with flounces, there are generally two, each surmounted by a bouillon. Where peignoirs are adopted in evening dress, which at present is often the case, the corsage is always disposed en coeur, on purpose that it may be made rather low. Organdy is very much in favour, so also is Scotch cambric, the first material has, however, the greatest vogue ; several dresses of it have appeared sprigged with coloured worsteds, and others trimmed with velvet en application, but ladies of acknowledged taste give a decided preference to the material in its elegant native simplicity. Festoons divide at present the vogue of flounces, several of which are festooned in coloured silk or worsted, with cockscombs or dents de coup. We see also some fichus a la paysanne, and even collars, ornamented in the same manner. Some redingotes are made with the bottom of the corsage edged with one or two rouleaus that are extremely small; when this is the case a ceinture is not used ; the waist consequently appears longer. This is, in our opinion, a graceful fashion.
Transcribed from: The World of Fashion and Continental Feuilletons
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